Any Kind of Bezel Setting

Burapha University - Chanthaburi - Faculty of Gems__ By : Suparee Taowongsa

Any kind of jewelry setting.

Jewelry Design

อ้างอิง: (เผด็จ ภูอากาศ 2552. 52)

1. Prong Setting (Claw Setting)

ฝังหนามเตย (เตยเดี่ยว, เตยร่วม) การฝังแบบกรงเล็บ มาจากลักษณะของหนามเตยมงกุฏ ซึ่งวิธีนี้ได้รับการพัฒนาในศตวรรษที่ 19

อ้างอิง: (www.professionaljeweler.com: 2552.)

4. 5. 6.

Prong Setting (Claw Setting)

ฝังจิกไข่ปลา (ไข่ปลาเดี่ยว, ไข่ปลาร่วม) ค าว่า Pave มาจากภาษาฝรั่งเศษแปลว่า “ ปูพื้น”

2. Pave’ Setting

1. Place or lay out the stones Positioning the stones is important.The most common style of bead andbright setting currently used is thefour bead-box pattern. This patterncalls for a space 1/2 to 3/4 of the stones’ diameter between the stones.

1.1 Drill a pilot hole.

1.2 Open the hole with a bud bur

1.3Cut the seat.

2. Pave’ Setting

2.Diamond sits tightly in the seat.

3.Cut with an onglette graver

4.Isolate the beads.

6. Raise the beads

5. Seat the stone

2. Pave’ Setting

7.Beading tool on the prong tip.

8. Bright cutting

Raising Beads, Opposing-Prong Method

Raising Beads, Shared-Prong Method

2. Pave’ Setting

Potential problems to watch for

There is unformed metal at thebase of the beads. The isolation cuts are not deep enough and the bead forming is sloppy.

The beads are differently sized and unevenly placed betweenthe diamonds.

The bright cuts have indentations and excessive tool marks.

Pave’ Setting

Mikimoto Pearl

ฝังหุ้ม3. Bezel Setting

1. Bamboo ProbeUsing the pointed end of a bamboo skewer (from the grocery store), push on various parts of the stone to see whether it's loose. The bamboo is soft and won't damage the stone.

2. Sticky Wax 3. The stone is level and even. Simply check this by eye. The facet orientation is"square"with the design.

อ้างอิง: (www.professionaljeweler.com: 2552.)Burapha University - Chanthaburi - Faculty of Gems__ By : Suparee Taowongsa

3. Bezel Setting

5. The thickness of the bezel wall emaining after cutting the stone's seat or bearing is at least 50% of the original width of the metal.

3. Bezel Setting

6. The thickness of the remaining bezel wall is even and the wall is finished consistently andin full contact with the stone. Because the bezel facets of the stones can "terminate" differently (see box),it's difficult to determine whether the stone has proper contact with the bezel.

7. The stone is not damaged. The facet junctions are not abraded orscratched and there is no other damage to the stone.

3. Bezel Setting

The stone is not level

The portion of the top of the bezel holding the stone is wavy and irregular

The top of the bezel is unfinished, irregular or thin

Stone set too low

Bezel Setting

Cosa Fina

Bezel Setting

Ananda khalsa

ฝังล๊อคบางส่วน

4. Half- Bezel Setting

1. Choose the correct size baguette to fit the mounting.

2. Prepare the seat for your baguette. Because baguettes are rarely cut to ideal proportions, you’ll have to customize each seat.

3. Set the baguette.

Prong Setting Baguettes

1.Potential Problems to Watch Out For

1.1Stone Angled in its Seat

1.2 Damaged Stone

1.3 Incorrect Prong Contact with Seat 1.4Loose Stone

Half- Bezel Setting

ฝังหัวเรือ

5. V-Prong Setting

V-Prong Setting

ฝังล๊อค, ฝังหนีบ (ฝังบนแนวขนาน)

6. Channel Setting

1. Preliminary layout of baguettes

2. Placement of Baguettes 3. Marking a guideline alongthe inside of the channel wall

3. Using a 90° bearing bur 4. Individually seat each stone to account for differences in girdle thickness, pavillion depths and crown heights

6. Channel Setting

5.Setting the Baguettes

Potential Problems to Watch for

6. Channel Setting

6. Channel Setting 8. 9.

11. 12.

Channel Setting

อ้างอิง: (เผด็จ ภูอากาศ 2552. 87-91)

ฝังไร้หนาม

7. Invisible Setting

สันล็อคด้านใน

จุดท่ีอัญมณีนั่งบ่า

Invisible Setting

รอ ยบาก โด ยตะไบเพชรหรือใบเจียรเพชรให้ต ากว่าขอบอัญมณี 2 ข้าง

บนแนวสันท่ีอัญมณีนั่งบ่าต้องผิวเรียบทุกสัน

จุดท่ีต้องตกแต่งเก็บผิวมุมให้เรียบร้อย

Invisible Setting

เม่ือแต่งร่องพลอยให้เข้ากับขอบสันของร่องแล้ว

ด าเนินการประดับ(ฝัง)ไปทีละเม็ดอย่างระมัดระวัง อ้างอิง: (เผด็จ ภูอากาศ 2552. 87-91)

Invisible Setting

ด าเนินการประดับ(ฝัง)ไปทีละเม็ดอย่างระมัดระวัง

ขอบด้านในท่ีท าหน้าท่ีกดขอบอัญมณีให้แน่น

Invisible Setting

อ้างอิง: (Tom Weishaar. 2552.)

ฝังเหยีบหน้า, ฝังจม

8. Flush Setting (Sinking Setting)

2. Cut to Proper Depth:The seat is cut to the proper depth when the top of the diamond’s tableis even or very slightly higher than the surfaceof the metal.

1. Bur a Seat:Drill a hole where you wish to set the diamond,then use an aggressive cutting bur to open the hole to 75% of the diamond’s diameter. Cut the seat with a standard setting bur the same diameter as the diamond or slightly smaller.

3. Fit the Diamond:Use a brass pusher to adjust the diamond in the seat.

4. Make a BurnisherTurn an old beading tool into a burnisher to usein flush-setting a diamond. Make several with various angles for various jobs.

6. Tighten the DiamondPush the metal flare onto the edge of the diamond.

8. Flush Setting (Sinking Setting)

5. Burnishing the Diamond:Hold the burnisher at a 45°angle to flare the lip of metalaround the diamond.

7.Clean and Inspect Metal Around the DiamondOnly a little metal is needed to secure the diamond.

8. Check with a ProbeBe sure the diamond is tight in its setting.

อ้างอิง: (Tom Weishaar. 2552.)

Flush Setting (Sinking Setting)

ฝังยึด (ขึ้นอยู่กับความแข็งของโลหะที่ใช้ยึด)9. Tension

Elichai Fowler

9. Tension

A. The table of the gemstone is below the surface of the top of the ring. B. The gemstone is level, even and set securely.C. No flashes of metal, debris or tool marks remain from the setting process.D. The mounting secures at least 10% of the width of the gemstone.E. The inside of the ring is highly polished

Professional Channel/Tension Setting of a Fancy-Shaped Gem

Tension

ฝังแบบลวงตา ใช้กับเพชร ช่วยให้เพชรเม็ดเล็กดูใหญ่ขึ้น เมื่องอแถบหุ้มโลหะเข้าหาเพชรท าให้เห็นโลหะเป็นเพชร ซึ่งคิดค้นโดยพ่อค้าเพชรพลอย ชาวฝรั่งเศษชื่อ “Oscar Massin” เมื่อค.ศ 1860

10. Illusion Setting

1. Preparing for the Reconstruction

2. Positioning and Soldering the Flat Stock

3. Shaping and Finishing

ฝังแบบลวงตา ใช้กับเพชร ช่วยให้เพชรเม็ดเล็กดูใหญ่ขึ้น เมื่องอแถบหุ้มโลหะเข้าหาเพชรท าให้เห็นโลหะเป็นเพชร ซึ่งคิดค้นโดยพ่อค้าเพชรพลอย ชาวฝรั่งเศษชื่อ “Oscar Massin” เมื่อค.ศ 1860

4.Shaping and Finishing

5.Soldering the Wedding Band to the Ring

Professionally Reconstructed Illusion Setting and Soldered Wedding Band

A. The reconstructed box illusion setting is proportionate and evenly shaped and has no visible solder joints. B. The design elements are crisp, sharp, even and consistent with the design of the original setting.C. The two rings are the same size and evenly soldered together.D. There are no file or tool marks on any portion of the reconstruction and assembly.E. The rhodium plating is even and has a high luster.

1.The design detail does not match, is crudely reconstructed and has visible solder joints.

2.The rings were not sized and one is larger than the other, resulting from errors in workmanship.

3. The box-style illusion setting was not aligned properly before reconstruction. When reconstructing jewelry, always identify and correct previous errors in workmanship and be sure to charge appropriately for the time.

4.The rings were not prefinished properly before assembly, resulting in visible errors in workmanship. Rhodium plating does not cover poor quality finishing,but rather emphasizes it.

Illusion Setting

มี 4-6 เตย, ฝังในลักษณะ V-Shaped : ซึ่งส่วนมากจะเป็น Solitaires

11. Tiffany Setting

Tiffany Setting

Credits Tom Weishaar. 2552. Flush Setting. www.professionaljeweler.com/

เผด็จ ภูอากาศ 2552. การประดับอัญมณี

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