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FASHION LAB PRODUCTIE
13.00: Productie in al zijn facetten, door Ann Collier, IVOC & Jo van Landeghem, Creamoda14.00: Getuigenis, tips & tricks door Samira Lafkioui, productiemanager Raf Simons14.30: Fabrikant Frederiek Ballière, Balko
15.00: Pauze – Nicole Verhagen, DmeetM
15.20 - 17.20: • MEET AND GREET met Belgian Designer Partners, in samenwerking
met Creamoda. • 1-op-1 gesprekken met coaches
AGENDA
Jo Vanlandeghem & Ann Collier
Design <>
Production
Production• Specific• Technical specifications• Technical drawing• The right manufacturer
The Tags• Fibre names• Care labels
GOOD AGREEMENTS MAKE GOOD PARTNERSHIPS
The world of the designer
Production: specific
The world of the fashion industry
Production: specific
The methodology• Question: • Do we leave everything to the good care of the
manufacturer ?• Or do we take the lead ?
• Options:A. I design the model myself and leave the rest to the
manufacturer B. I design, make the first pattern and leave the rest to
the manufacturer C. I design, make the first pattern, make the prototype
and leave the rest to the manufacturer D. I buy from the manufacturers collection or I choose
something exclusive
Production: specific
From idea to product • The creative idea / the first sketch
• The development of the first pattern
• The first prototype
• The realization of the collection samples
• The size set samples
• The gold seal sample or reference sample for production
• Bulk production
Production: specific
Technical specifications
• Model/style• BOM• Technical drawing• Technical instructions• Measurements
Technical specifications
Technical specifications: Style
Technical specifications: Style/BOM
Technical specifications: BOM
MATERIAL CARD
FABRICS
DESCRIPTION COMMENTS REF SUPPLIER SEE DETAILS MATERIAL N° QUT WHERE COLOUR
COMBO 1COLOUR
COMBO 2COLOUR
COMBO 3COLOUR
COMBO 4COLOUR
COMBO 5
SHELL 1 100% polyamide ribstop - acrylic coating 600mm Clear transparant coating Body, sleeves, pocketpintucks, pocketentries, outercollar, galoon interior collar, sleevepocket, inside pocket, waistgalloon on lining
Orange171462 TPX
SHELL 2 100% polyester microfibre 2 layers Contrast galoon exterior collar, interior collar, half moon on lining
Grey171501 TPX
SHELL 3 Nylon 190T coated 600mm Clear transparant coating Hood Grey171501 TPX
LINING 1 Mesh 100% polyester Body lining Grey171501 TPX
LINING 2 Nylon 190T Sleeves lining, pocketparts inset pockets, lining of exterior collar, intermediate collar
Grey171501 TPX
ACCESSORIES
DESCRIPTION COMMENTS REF SUPPLIER SEE DETAILS MATERIAL N° QUT WHERE COLOUR
COMBO 1COLOUR
COMBO 2COLOUR
COMBO 3COLOUR
COMBO 4COLOUR
COMBO 5ZIPPER 1 Zipper Vislon 9mm 2-way open end Completely plastic - ALSO SLIDER PLASTIC - grey
teeth1 Centre front zipper Orange / grey teeth /
grey sliders
ZIPPER 2 Zipper Vislon 6mm closed end Completely plastic - ALSO SLIDER PLASTIC 2 2 bottom pockets Orange
ZIPPER PULLER 1 Ribbon 10mm 4x12cm zipperslider OrangeDRAWCORD 1 Elastic drawcord Hem hood OrangeSTOPPER 1 Cordstopper Drawcord hood GreyPIPING Reflective piping Chestseam, horizontal backseam, sleeves insets
VELCRO 1 Velcro loop circle diameter 7cm left upperarm OrangeVELCRO 2 Velcro 20mm Sleeves narrowing OrangeVELCRO 3 Velcro 20mm Collar + hood GreyELASTIC Elastic 20mm Bottompart hem sleeves
LABELLING
DESCRIPTION COMMENTS REF SUPPLIER SEE DETAILS MATERIAL N° QUT WHERE COLOUR
COMBO 1COLOUR
COMBO 2COLOUR
COMBO 3COLOUR
COMBO 4COLOUR
COMBO 5PRINTED LABEL On satin white polyester : print SM See tabsheet details materialsSIZE LABEL Sizelabel in the middle of the neck See tabsheet details materialsCARE LABEL Woven care label See tabsheet details materials 1 In the left sideseamHANGTAG 1 Hang tag SM See tabsheet details materials
EMBROIDERY 1 LES SAUVETEURS EN MER SNSM See tabsheet details materials In the middle of the backEMBROIDERY 2 LES SAUVETEURS EN MER SNSM See tabsheet details materials On right upperarmEMBROIDERY 3 Embroidered badge See tabsheet details materials On left chest
PACKING
DESCRIPTION COMMENTS REF SUPPLIER SEE DETAILS MATERIAL N° QUT WHERE COLOUR
COMBO 1COLOUR
COMBO 2COLOUR
COMBO 3COLOUR
COMBO 4COLOUR
COMBO 5POLYBAGMINIGRIPSILKPAPERSTICKERSTICKER BOX
Technical specifications: BOM
Technical drawing
Technical instructions
Technical instructions
Technical instructions
Technical instructions
Technical instructions
Stitch types ISO 4915 (international standard)
Class 100 : chain stitches
Class 200: hand stitches
Class 300: Lockstitches
Class 400: Multi-thread chain stitches
Class 500: Overedge chain stiches
Class 600: Covering chain stitches
Seam types ISO 4916 (international standard)SS - Stapelnaad (Superimposed Seam)
LS - Overlapnaad (Lapped Seam)
BS - Gebonden naad (Bounded Seam)
FS - Platte naad (Flat Seam)
Multi-thread chain stitches
Lapseam/felled seam
simplicitynewlook.com
Body measurements
1 Total length2 chest width = bust
4 Waist5 Waist height6 Hip
7 neck – shoulder - armlength
Hogent - smartfit
The right manufacturer
• Good to know
• Start prospecting before the season starts - “first come, first served”
¾ The time factor is utterly important.
¾ Be on time, respecting the right time zone� Summer collection (November until February)
� Winter collection (June until August)
• Select a supplier according to your product needs eg. Tricot machinery tricot
• Better a few models / week than all at once
The right manufacturer• Creamoda & it’s members
• Belgian Designer Partners
¾ Manufacturers are willing to work on the realization of the collection(s) of starters and to do an additional effort
¾ “Meet & Greet” events
• Creamoda website contains a substantial list of Belgian manufacturers
• Advantages of production with a Belgian partner:
¾ Coaching & advise
¾ Visit, control & corrections
¾ Small orders
The right manufacturer
• Questions to ask…
• Working with starters ? Product types ?
• Volume big or small orders ? Quality level ? Price level ?
Are modifications possible ? Capacity booking ?
Timing ?
• Terms of delivery ? Payment terms ?
Social compliance ?
• Product Safety ? Product testing ?
• Sustainable manufacturing ?
The right manufacturer
Price & conscious choice
Basic Model: if you have a good basic fit re-use it . With some minor
modifications = can be less expensive than making a completely new one.
Careful with Fabric Consumption (draperies…)
Manual finishing or machine finishing.
Bio / Eco materials and finishing
MOQ Minimum order quantities
Remember
•A good preparation makes half of the work
•A clear communication = crucial ( Technical file )
•A clear quality sketch sometimes says more than words
•Provide a sufficient amount of fabrics and additionals ( buttons can get
broken in the factory…)
•Think about your labels, composition, brand, size, care instructions
THE TAGS
• Fibre composition• Care instructions
Fibre composition
EU-Regulation No 1007/2011from 27/09/2011
• Prescribes the way the fibre composition of products needs to be indicated
by means of a label/marking in order to protect the needs of the customer
• Textile products may only placed on the EU market when they comply with
the directives of that regulation
• The full name needs to be used: cotton, acrylic, polyester, …
• http://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/LexUriServ.do?uri=
OJ:L:2011:272:0001:0064:EN:PDF
EU-Regulation No 1007/2011from 27/09/2011
• Article 12: extra notice “contains non-textile parts of animal origin”
9 Percentage does not matter and the animal species does not need to bespecified
IMPORTANT: even a leather label on a textile product needs to bementioned!
Fibre composition
• Legally obliged in all European countries for all textile products
• Textile product = a product min. 80% by weight made out of
textile fibres
• Needs to be written in the national language
• Abbreviations are not allowed
• Written in descending order eg. 50% cotton 40% wool 10% nylon
Fibre names• Fibre names are determined by law only
• Official fibre name (generic name) = NOT a trademark or
marketing name
• Not related to the manufacturer
Eg. Coolmax, Lycra, Tervira, Tencel, Danufil...are not generic
fibre names
• In principle there is only 1 generic name
9There is 1 exception: polyamide and nylon are synonyms
9Flax and Linen can both be used
The Care label according ISO 3758:2005
The Care label• The care label is not abligated by law in the EU member states however:
¾ Obligated use of symbols in Austria
¾ Obligated use of symbols or text in Italy
• The symbols indicate maximum resistance to care and laundring
• The pictograms are the property of GINETEX. ETITEX owns the rights for
Belgium and Luxemburg
The Care label• Use the symbols with care
• Respect the sequence of the symbols
• When using the symbols, you need to pay a fee to Etitex
http://www.etitex.be
• Continuous text = allowed but needs to be written in the national
language
CONTRACTUAL AGREEMENTSBETWEEN DESIGNER& MANUFACTURER
(Standard) contractFramework agreement
• General agreement with rights and obligations• Few changes needed
Individual contract• Further comments and specifications on the framework
agreement• Deviations from the framework agreement• A lot of modifications can be made• Regular renewal/modification is possible, but never without
signing the framework agreement first
The framework agreement• Definitions• Subject• Price & payment• Rights and obligations of both parties• (Intellectual) property• Data confidentiality• Materials, conformity of the finishing process and
defaults• Delays for finishing and delivery• Duration and resiliation of the contract• Legislation applicable and appropriate court
The individual contractFor 1 season (1 collection)One sheet per model
• Sketch + details of the sketch
Description of the confection assignment• Patterns, prototype, purchase of the garments,
preparation of the production and the production itself
• Prices, terms and places of delivery• Other agreements
Detailed description of the production assignment• Sizes and numbers per size (models/finishings)
Availability of the contract
In Dutch / French / English
On request available at :
CreamodaTailor-made modifications are possible for members of the federation
PRODUCTIELafkioui Samira
PRODUCTIEMANAGER
1. Planningendeadlinesvanproductie bepalen.2. Prijzen enkwaliteit garanderen.3. Verantwoordelijk vanaf leveringvandestoffen &trimstotlevering
vanhetafgewerkt kledingstuk.4. Voortdurend opzoek naar nieuwe fabrikanten enwerkmethodes
omefficienter enbeter resultaten te boeken.5. Derelaties metdeproducenten onderhouden.
1. PLANNINGENDEADLINESVANPRODUCTIEBEPALEN
TIJDSLIJN
GRONDSTOFFEN: - VANAANKOOPTOTPRODUCENT:12-16WEKEN
PRODUCTIE: - VANLANCERENTOTWAREHOUSE:16-26WEKEN
- VANLEVERINGGRONDSTOFTOTWAREHOUSE:10-16WEKEN
2.PRIJZENENVOORBEREIDENVANNIEUWPRODUCTIESEIZOEN.
CODEMAKENSEIZOEN JAAR MODEL HOOFDSTOF KLEUR1=ZOMER2=WINTER
16 100,101,102…=HEMDEN
200,201,202,…=BROEKEN
...
NAAM GEVEN WHITEBLACKRED…
SSAW
2016 PALM,PECAN,…=PANTS
TUPELO,TANOAK,..= T-SHIRTS
….
1000,1001,1002,..=WOL
2000,2001,2002,..=KATOEN
…
001-010=WITTEKL.011-019 =BLAUWE020-029=GROEN
…
SW
016 001-019=KATOEN020-039=WOL
…
VOORBEELD:1-16-100-DAZY-WHITE/SS2016-PALM-1000-019/S16-200-20001-GROEN
HOEMAKENWEONZEPRIJS• Grondstoffen =(aankoopprijs *verbruik)+transportkost vandegoederen.• DIENSTEN=gradatie,ontwikkelingskost,print,washing,plissage,…• Transportkosten,reiskosten enlogistiek.• Commissies.• Packaging.• **Maakloon.=(SUM)KOSTPRIJS
** Maakloon: A)CMT =(CUT&MAKE&TRIM)B)CM= (CUT&MAKE)
KWALITEITGARANDERENAlvorens productie te starten controleren wevolgende zaken:• Pasvorm /maat.• Afwerking binnen enbuiten.• Hoewordt hetkledingstuk opgestuurd?Hangend?Ineen doos?Verder:• Stoffen op:kleur,was,krimp,opwollen,…• Prints,borduursels,applicaties,...Testenopwash,dryclean,...Deze infoisnodig omte beslissen wat er ophetwash&care labelkomt.
PRODUCTIEBON
SEASON: SRING/SUMMER
ARTICLE: 1-17-200-W001-030
DESCRIPTION: CLASSICPANT
SIZE 44 46 48 50 52 TOTAL
TOPRODUCE 47 55 62 52 34 250
MATERIALLIST discription dyebath unit needed totalneeded
1. 1-17-W001-030 ClassicwoolRed MTR 1,3 325
2. 1-17-L001-099 Pocketingblack MTR 0,3 75
3. 1-17-B124-099 Button24"black PCS 3 750
4. 0-00-LA01-099 WovenLabel PCS 1 250
5. 0-00-HA01-099 Hangtag+Buttonbag PCS 1 250
6. 0-00-CL01-099 Clipper PCS 1 250
7. 0-00-PO115-000 Polybag1,5m PCS 1 250
1-17-W001-030
1-17-L001-099
NAMEOFCOMPANY: NAMEOFTHEPRODUCER:
FABRICSWATCH
TECHNICALDRAWING
PRODUCTIONORDER:1-17-001 DELIVERYDATE:LEVERINGEXFACTORYDATE:DATUMPROD.START
TECHNISCHEFICHE
3.COORDINERENVANZENDINGGRONDSTOFFENNAARPRODUCENTEN.
LEVERANCIERSPAKLIJST
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TECHNISCHEFICHE
VERDEELLIJSTPERARTIKEL OVERZICHTGRONDSTOFFENPER
PRODUCENTGRONDSTOF:1-17-W001-030Green Supplier:
Ref.supplier:
Manufacturer: Article: unit Needed Pieces Total ShippedMopan 1-17-200-W001-030 M 1,3 250 325 …VanBockrijk 1-17-602-W001-030 M 2,2 115 253 …Mobecon 1-17-405-W001-030 M 0,8 76 60,8 …
638,8
GRONDSTOF:1-17-W001-045LightBlue Supplier:Ref.supplier:
Manufacturer: Article: unit Needed Pieces Total ShippedMopan 1-17-200-W001-045 M 1,3 98 127,4 …Mopan 1-17-202-W001-045 M 1,22 45 54,9 …Mobecon 1-17-405-W001-045 M 0,8 30 24 …
206,3
GRONDSTOF:1-17-W001-001White Supplier:Ref.supplier:
Manufacturer: Article: unit Needed Pieces Total ShippedMobecon 1-17-405-W001-001 M 0,8 88 70,4 …
70,4
Art.90895-design001-col.#3Baccisrl.
Baccisrl.Art.90895-design001-col.#8
Baccisrl.Art.90895-design001-col.#1
DATE:
GRONDSTOF:1-17-W001-030Green Supplier:Ref.supplier:
Article: Color: Supplier: Ref.Supplier unit Total Shipped1-17-W001-030 Grey Bacci Art.90895-design001-col.#3 M 325 …1-17-W001-045 LightBlue Bacci Art.90895-design001-col.#8 M 182 …1-17-W008-030 Grey Colombo Art.Juliadesign9-col.04 M 1021-17-W012-001 Black Puro Art.Baltimorcol.001 M 1951-17-W024-001 Black Puro Art.Balthazar-design#4-col.001 M 1201-17-V001-001 Black Pasorelli Art.Saglie-col.Nero M 2201-17-V001-009 Grey Pasorelli Art.Saglia-col.Bianca M 601-17-B024-001 Black UnionKnopff Arthorn074-24"-00099 pcs. 12001-17-B032-001 Black UnionKnopff Arthorn074-32"-00099 pcs. 4001-17-B038-001 Black UnionKnopff Arthorn074-38"-00099 pcs. 1501-17-B024-008 Grey UnionKnopff Arthorn074-24"-00091 pcs. 12001-17-B032-008 Grey UnionKnopff Arthorn074-32"-00091 pcs. 4001-17-B038-008 Grey UnionKnopff Arthorn074-38"-00091 pcs. 1500-00-T001-000 Black labelcompany Art.Hangtag450*23-02-001 pcs. 4500-00-CL01-042 Black Mainetti Clipper052-black-logo#4 pcs 4500-00-HO01-000 Mainetti Polybag0,01-logo#4 pcs 450
NAMEOFCOMPANY: NAMEOFPRODUCER:MOPAN
LISTOFMATERIALISSUE
Baccisrl.Art.90895-design001-col.#3
4.SOURCENVANNIEUWEFABRIKANTEN.
5.ONDERHOUDVANGOEDERELATIESMETFABRIKANTEN.
FashionProduction
FashionLab,Antwerpen,8-11-2016
frederiekballiere@balko.be
WHOWEARE
• Familycompany– 5generations fashionexperience
• Based inWaregem:logistics,QC,styling&patterns
• Short&Longtermproduction facilities
(Fully Owned)factories inEastern Europe,Tunesia,
Pakistan(JV),Bangladesh(JV)&China
• Focuson(denim&rtd)trousers &outerwear
Technicalknow how,importance ofaperfectfit
• Customers:brands&retailers(Fr/Be/NL/De)
• +- 2million pces/yr
WHATWEDO
• Customised fashionsolutions from ato z:
StylingSamplingSourcingFabrics (stocks)TrimsMakePackingQCLogistics
…butnot every customeroutsources all ofthose steps…:
HOWTOFINDTHEBEST
PRODUCTIONSOLUTION??
*STARTINGPOINT:STYLING
From a(modified)shoppingand supplier’s collection
to your own design…
!Anticipate:Talkwith your production partner……about the technical possibilities orpotential practicalissues…about the prices (securefinal price!)…about the rightfitting…about the moq’s (fabrics &accessories)and havethis talkbefore you startto work outacollection:savealotoftime&money!
*PRODUCTIONPROCESS:KEYQUESTIONS!
1. Sampling*Patterns by the production companyORby you?
*Howmany samples?Sms?Prototype?PPS?
*Sampleyardage ordered by?
2.Sourcing (fabrics &(packing)accessories)
*Fabrics:proposed &delivered by the supplier ORby you?(finished garment vs make)
(Trousers =mostofthe timedifferentfrom other items!)
*Accessories (buttons,lining,..):proposed &delivered by the supplier ORby you?(Basicsusually by supplier /personalised itemsby the brand)
*Packing accessories (pricelabels,tags,..):delivered by the supplier ORby you?
!Chosethe rightsupplier:some suppliers offerfullsolutions,others only offerthe make,and ask to deliver everything…savemoney&time…
!Talkwith your producerabout technical possibilities,practicalissues,fitting,prices(alternatives!)…
*PRODUCTIONPROCESS:KEYQUESTIONS!
3.Make*Longterm/Shortterm?Quantities?
Pricedifference can be huge;quality levelcan remain!
4.Logistics*Transportationcost to/from production facilities,transportationcost
from fabrics,importtaxes..
*Packing instructions:makeit easyonyourself!Flatpacked (online!)
orhanging?
*Extrapartnerfor handling&directdeliveries?
Samelogicasfor the sourcing offabrics:economy ofscale makes ahuge difference!
Generaltips&tricks
• Define your own wayofworking &then chosethe right
production partner…
• Strategy:gofor highendexclusivity orgofor volume…
• Outsourcing?Can be the answer for astartup,butalso
for brands/retailerswilling to keeptheir focuson
design,marketing&sales
• Gofor alongterm,respectful &honest relationship
with your (production)partners…
WWW.FFI.BE
ONLINE KENNISLUIK – MODEGIDSIncl lessons learned
WWW.CLOSE-THE-LOOP.BE
UPCOMING EVENTSINFOSESSIE MERKEN, MODELLEN en OCTROOIEN – 17/11 Leuven
ADVIESDAGEN – 25/11 Antwerpen, 9/12 Leuven
SPREEKUREN - FFI Antwerpen – 14/11 en 20/12
LAB INFLUENCER MARKETING 29/11 Antwerpen 2/12 Brussel 6/12 Gent
FASHION TALKS – November 2017- Antwerpen
STAY IN TOUCH
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