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Syntetiske fibre3D-printning af bæredygtigt tøj
www.tekstilbiologi.dk
Tekstilbiolog/designer
2
Hvor meget plast i tøj?
4Worldwide fiber production. SOURCE: Data from Fiber Economics Bureau of the American Fiber Manufacturing Association.
5Percentage breakdown of consumption by fibre type for clothing and household textiles (IMPRO Textiles 2014)
54%
46%16%
28%
23%
30%
70%
Materialer i Tøj (EU)
Generel opfattelse af syntetiske fibre
7
MiljøbelastendeUKomfortabel
”Ikke relevant for mig” (Volumen)…
Syntetiske fibre
8
Råvarer Brugsfase EndOfLifeForædling (transport)
9Impacts of textile consumption in the EU-27 according to the ReCiPe's midpoint (a) and 4ndpoint (b) indicators. The percentage
contribution of the different life cycle stages is reported (IMPRO Textiles 2011)
Miljøbelastning af tekstil forbrugLivscyklus-faser
10
(transport)Råvarer Brugsfase EndOfLifeForædling
Tekstile fibre
Naturlige <> syntetiske
12
Klassificering – tekstile fibre
13
14
Manufactured - Modificérbar
15
Råvarer Brugsfase EndOfLifeForædling (transport)
16http://www.lenzing.com/en/concern/sustainability.html
17http://www.lenzing.com/en/concern/sustainability.html
18
Material Sustainability Indexhttp://msi.apparelcoalition.org
19
Material Sustainability Indexhttp://msi.apparelcoalition.org
20
IMPRO – textiles (2014)
21
(transport)Råvarer Brugsfase EndOfLifeForædling
22
(transport)Råvarer Brugsfase EndOfLifeForædling
24%
70%
<1%
80%
20%40%60%
(IMPRO Textiles 2014)
25% 75%
(mikro)plast i havet
24
(transport)Råvarer Brugsfase EndOfLifeForædling
25
(transport)Råvarer Brugsfase EndOfLifeForædling
70%
80%
26
(transport)Råvarer Brugsfase EndOfLifeForædling
Syntetiske tekstil fibre
Generelle egenskaber
28
Egenskaber• Varme-følsomme• Modstandsdygtig
– Fleste kemikalier– Insekter, svampe, råd– Sollys, regn
• Lav fugt-absorption• Statisk elektrisk• Slidstyrke høj• Pilling• Formstabil (resilience)
• Lette• Elastiske• Lugt• Isolerende
Syntetiske tekstil fibreTyper
NylonPolyester
OlefinAkryl
30
• Nylon
• Polyester
• Olefin
• Acrylic
16%
10%
≈3%
10%
Percentage breakdown of consumption by fibre type for clothing and household textiles (IMPRO Textiles 2014)
Polyaminer (PA)
PET
Polyethylen (PE)Polypropylen (PP)
Poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA)
31
• Nylon
• Polyester
• Olefin
• Acrylic
Nylon66
Polyester fabric
Polypropylene fabric
Knit Acrylic fabric
Percentage breakdown of consumption by fibre type for clothing and household textiles (IMPRO Textiles 2014)
16%
10%
≈3%
10%
Syntetiske tekstil fibreTyper
NylonPolyester
OlefinAkryl
3333
Polyurethan (PUR)
ElasthaneDorlastan
LycraSupplex
35
Syntetiske tekstil fibreTyper
NylonPolyester
OlefinAkryl
37
38
Polyester
Midweight Thermax® T-neck By Duofold (for Women)Extraordinary warmth, wicking power and soft comfort. 100% Thermax®
Syntetiske tekstil fibreTyper
NylonPolyester
OlefinAkryl
40http://triocean.com.tw/#about-us
41
Dyneema: 96% cotton, 4% polyethylene 33% polypropylene
ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene fiber
42
(PET PET/PP)
Syntetiske tekstil fibreTyper
NylonPolyester
OlefinAkryl
44http://www.dralon.com http://drytex.es
Genanvendelse
46
• Nylon
• Polyester
• Olefin
• Acrylic
Nylon66
Polyester fabric
Recycl Polyester fabric
Polypropylene fabric
Knit Acrylic fabric
47
Mikroorganismer
48
fungi Schizophyllum Commune
Pleurotus Ostreatus
Katharina Unger and Julia Kaisinger
http://www.livinstudio.com/fungi-mutarium/
49
…took six weeks to completely degrade just a small film of low-grade PET, and breaking down the higher-quality material used in packaging would take even longer
50
Råvarer Brugsfase EndOfLifeForædling (transport)
MiljøbelastendeUKomfortabel
”Ikke så vigtig” (Volumen)…
3d-elektrospinding af (bæredygtigt?) tøj…
52
3D-printet tøj
53
5454
Poly(vinyl alcohol) (PVA)Poly(ethylene oxide) (PEO)Poly(lactic acid)
55
Materialer
56
Konstruktion
57
Anvendelse
Bomuldspose: x131, før dens klimaaftryk bliver mindre end plastposens. Bruges i gennemsnit 51 gange
Stofbleer: mere vand og udleder mere flydende affald Engangsbleer: mere affald i fast form og forbruger flere råmaterialer.
58
3d elektrospundet beklædning af biprodukt keratin
Syntetiske fibre3D-printning af bæredygtigt tøj
www.Tekstilbiologi.dk
60
61
62
IMPRO – textiles (2014)
63
IMPRO Textiles 2014
64
IMPRO Textiles 2014
65
Fiber blending
• the longer lifetime of polyester and of
cotton/polyester fibre blend
• the lower temperature for washing (40
°C for the T-shirt containing some
polyester compared to 45.8 °C for
cotton) reduces the impact of the use
phase
IMPRO Textiles 2014
66
Controlled De-Cross-Linking and Disentanglement of Feather Keratin for Fiber Preparation via a Novel ProcessACS Sustainable Chem. Eng., 2014, 2 (6), pp 1404–1410