U n d e r s t a n d i n g M E N S W E A R

Aakansha Menon, Abhinov .A, Anubabh Das, Arunim Srivastava, Ginu

George, Harikrishnan K.S, Nisha Topno ,Rishu Kumari, Rupal Sanghavi, Sushmita K, Umang Sharma

I N S P I R A T I O N / C O N C E P T S• 1st emergence of the Suit was from the Prince of wales

Edward VIIPrince Edward was the first person to have worn the suit as a professional attire. It had bold detailing and was loose or baggy fitted. It was more towards the informal look which he carried.

• Beau Brummel was the first person who had influenced the designing of men's fashion to the greatest extent.

• The influence of having tailored suits that fits the body well and the use of high quality fabrics for menswear was from his influence.

• The use of subtle features and detailing in menswear was also due to the influence of Brummel.

• Semi formal clothing was inspired from the Prince of Wales Edward VIII

• Previously menswear was made based on the utility of the garment as the influence to the design.

• Present day menswear inspirations are based on different mixtures and a wide variety of influences based on the environment in which a man would be in and also the elements from his everyday life but also keeping in mind the subtle nature of the design and the detailing

• The main themes for inspiration are

• NATURE, SOCIETY/TRAVELL, ART AND CULTURE, HISTORY, TECHNOLOGY , ARCHITECTURE.

Color in design is very subjective. What evokes one reaction in one person may evoke a very different reaction in somone else. Sometimes this is due to personal preference, and other times due to cultural background. Color theory is a science in itself. Studying how colors affect different people, either individually or as a group, is something some people build their careers on. Something as simple as changing the exact hue or saturation of a color can evoke a completely different feeling. Cultural differences mean that something that’s happy and uplifting in one country can be depressing in another.

C O L O R S

MONOCHROMATIC Monochromatic color schemes are made up of different tones, shades and tints within a specific hue.

ANALOGOUS Analogous schemes are created by using three colors that are next to each other .

COMPLEMENTARY Complementary schemes are created by combining colors from opposite sides of the color wheel.

SPLIT COMPLEMENTARY In this scheme, instead of using colors that are opposites, you use colors on either side of the hue opposite your base hue.

TRIADIC LINKTriadic schemes are made up of hues equally spaced around the 12-spoke color wheel. This is one of the more diverse color schemes.

USING PHOTOS FOR COLOR SCHEMES

One of th eways to create a color scheme is to use a photograph. There are automated tools online that can do this automatically for you Sometimes this can result in finding color schemes that you might not have thought of on your own.

1. Pink

Still hung up on pink supposedly being for girls? Then consider this: up until the end of the 19th century pink was – in the Western world – actually thought of as a masculine hue. Connotations of girlishness gradually came in the early 20th century as marketers repositioned pink as a feminine colour.Whether dusty and soft or bold and bright, pink pairs well with plenty of colours you probably already have in your wardrobe – including brown, beige, blue, white and darker shades of green, such as olive.

C O L O R T R E N D S

2. BrownAlthough this hue tends to remind us of the less than savory fashions of the 1970s, attitudes are changing thanks to designers such as Tom Ford, J.W. Anderson and Miuccia Prada, all of whom are rebranding brown.The perfect partner to this classic neutral will always be blue; the combination gives blue depth, while the brown appears richer (see Prada’s spring/summer 2015 denim- and leather-filled collection for an idea of what we mean). Additional complementary colors include earthy hues such as burnt orange, green, khaki, mustard and beige.Although there’s a shade of brown that will work well with pretty much every skin tone, those of you with Asian or African skin will want to avoid hues that are too close in color to your complexion, as it can make it appear dull and faded.

3. Green

moss or khaki hues, there are so many other green tones that can be introduced to your wardrobe and help take your outfits to the next level.No matter what shade you opt for, this masculine colour always looks best paired with blue, white and grey, while darker military variants complement similarly earthy hues such as brown and mustard wonderfully.A short-sleeved shirt or pair of chino shorts in mint green is ideal for crafting Riviera-inspired ensembles during the warmer months, while bright green details and accessories (socks, lightweight scarves, pocket squares, etc.) will add a striking element to an otherwise pared-back look.Deeper variants like olive, avocado and hunter green are the most versatile though, with corduroy trousers, military-inspired blazers, bomber jackets and boots in these hues being particularly appropriate for autumn/winter.An additional benefit of green is that it works with every skin tone, provided you take the time to find the shade that complements your complexion the best.

M e n s w e a r T r e n d s

1. M o n o c h r o m e

• one of the main trends of this season is all black , all white or a mix of both.

• ASOS, River Island, Next and AllSaints all put their own distinctive spin on monochrome in their SS15 lookbooks, ranging from beach-ready white-on-white ensembles to edgier, rock-infused looks with a healthy dose of attitude.

• All-black outfits, despite their connotations of adolescent goths for some, will always look classic, while all-white getups are ideal if you want something summer-appropriate that strikes the balance between subtle and statement-making.

• Key to both, though, is mixing up textures As for black and white outfits, choose one of the two as the dominant hue – for example, the colour of your suit or your jacket and trousers – and then add complementary surrounding pieces in the other colour, such as a vest, T-shirt, short-sleeved shirt or pair of shoes.

2. P r i n t e d S h o r t – S l e e v e S h i r t s

3. L I g h t W a s h J e a n s

With denim and the nineties key trends for 2015, it should come as no surprise that light wash jeans are back on the menswear agenda this summer.Perfectly suited to warm-weather dressing, jeans in mid to light blue shades or bleached out washes offer something different to traditional black or indigo styles, and can hugely

5. T h e S t r I p e d B l a z e r

• Showcased in several SS15 collections • Guaranteed to give your tailoring

collection a summer-ready lift, a striped blazer will serve you well for a slew of different occasions, from formal garden parties to sun holidays abroad.

3. U t i l i t y d e t a I i I n g

. Extra large PocketsZippers

White embroidered shirtsMasculine and bringing stylish sophisticationBottoms- summer trouser with

generous pleats

Sharp and boxy volumesand placed pockets providea chic geometric vibe to the shirting

The woven t-shirt has replaced theCasual tee for a chic tee inspiration.

Suits- boxy volume, cropped length & sleek details

Relaxed fit - easy to wear blazers in linen blends

The epitome of minimalist style, the low-top white trainer. Off-duty wardrobe staple since the days of Newman, Dean and McQueen

Get TexturalBold statement uppers and unusual soles, the very fabric of trainers themselves is changing. With numerous brands now offering woven styles or exotic fabrications,.

The vacation suitcase

1945-60

• Soldiers – government jobs• More of suits.• Blue or grey chalk stripes.• Charcoal gray was the usual color.• In coats the most popular colors were bark • tan-navy blue Rust colors.• In casual attire it was burgundy, hunter green,

navy blue, tans shades.• apart from buttons ,zippers and buffalo plaid in

some jackets no other fancy trims were seen during this period.

1970’s

• Fashion was fairly Consistant.• Plaid , houndstoothAnd checks were popular in black and white- indigo.• Brighter colors were seen in casual wear• Suits in white became popular.• Fur and leather detailing were seen in many coats.• Disco influenced during this period .

Early 1980’s• Athletic clothes

were more popular with subdued colours .

• Popular colours- black, white, forest green, indigo, burgundy and shades of brown, tan and orange.

• The general public preferred simple basic colors.

• Punk influence – a lot of black and white continued.

• Metallic trims were popular.• Stripes were seen a lot on casual wear• Unisex colors- turquoise ,teal, red, neon

yellow and purple.

90’s and now

• Experimentation• More of prints• Yellow , light green, Mauve ,black and white Popular in tee-shirts.Pastels were a trend.• Tan , rust and navy blueSeen in trousers(bottoms).• Lately a lot of indigo and White combinations are seen.

1100-1190• Full, ground length decorated with embroidery

bands.

Men used to wear:• Robe- T-shaped with ground length flared skirts,

pulled up high on one side and controlled by the belt and sleeves are cut very long to extend over the hands

• Under tunic - Ground length with long ruckled sleeves to wrist.

• Mantle – A semi circular, ground length, fasten on right shoulder and edged with pattern band

• Hosen- Poorly fitting long stockings held up by cords attached to the inner belt

INNOVATION IN MEN’S WEAR FASHION

1150

Bliaut: Development of the tunic with body part and skirts separated by a waist seam. The skirts, longer at back than in front, are pleated to the low position waistline. Sleeves are cut in one with body.

1300 EDWARD I

•Under tunic- Knee length lined throughout and buttoned down to the center front.

•Cyclas- sleeveless tunic, low neck with the sides left open to the hips where they are either buttoned and seen through the hem.

•Hosen- Improvement in cut and fit due to the length exposed by the short tunic.

•Guard-corps- A flared, below knee length, top garment with hood attached. It falls straight from the shoulder and is lined throughout. The very full pleated sleeves are cut with a second and alternative opening for the hands. The guard-corps frequently replaces the cloak.

1500 HENRY Vll

• The doublet- Square necked , laced up the CF with loose fitted sleeves, the skirts set in deep pleats.

1560 ELIZABETH I

• A sober and dignified suit of clothes with doublet, cloaks and trunk hose often of matching fabric and decoration.

• Jerkin- usually slashed through its length to reveal the padded inner lining

• Trunk hose- hooked to the waistline of the doublet , terminate at mid thigh

1720 GEORGE I• Coat and the waistcoat- looser in cut

and absence of heavy stuffing.

• Waistcoat- shorter in length than the coat, and left unbuttoned to the waist. Two flapped pockets are placed on either side of the skirt fronts.

• Breeches- fit more closely to the shape of the leg, they are buckled and buttoned below the knee.

• Coats, stockings were also worn.

1805

• Frock coat- Double breasted and usually worn buttoned. It is cut to reveal the waist coatand expanse of the shirt front.

•Waist coat- Single breasted with the steeped stand collar and lapels that stands away from the chest.

•Pantaloons- Similar cut to breeches, they extend to the ankles where side seams are open.

•Stockings-usually white

1853 VICTORIA

• Riding coat- shorter in length than the frock coat

• Waist coat- longer at the waist and cut to form a triangular notch at the center front waist line

• Trousers- Pegged trousers wide at the hips and close fittings at the ankle. The trouser are decorated with broad stripe on the outer seams.

1880 VICTORIA

Three piece lounge suits became very popular.

• Lounge suits- the single breasted coat, cut fairly straight wit little indication of waisting , four buttoned , the collars and lapels are narrow. Pockets are positioned on either hip and on the left breast.

1900 VICTORIA

Proportions and subtle changes in style occur yearly.

•Full evening garments- Tail coat, white waist coat, trousersCoats were never buttoned up, the lapels are faced with silk, the tails fit close to the sides of the figure. The waistcoat were single breasted, cut very low in front with curved lapels, is sometimes made in satin and brocades with buttons of Jade, Lapis Lazuli etc.

EDWARD VII – [1901-10]

During this era , men wore:• Double breasted frock coats•Velvet covered buttons•Striped trousers with creases•Cut away jackets•Stiff collars•Bow tie•Jackets and coats had waist seam•Pocket flaps and velvet cuffs

GEORGE V– 1910

•Blazers with single button fastening•Brass buttons•Flannel trousers•White waistcoats•Evening tad suits with cut away jackets•Narrow trousers without turn ups

1910 GEORGE V

Men wore:•High buttons fastening in jackets•Sloping pockets•Double breasted suit•Bold check•Deep cuffs•Shaping seams•Country suit•Wide trousers with turn-ups•Lounge suit•Wide padded shoulders•Slanted flap pockets

Paletot coat- below knee length with close fitting back and straight hanging fronts. Front fly fastening.

Trousers- Ankle length when worn with turn ups

1920 GEORGE V

Double breasted lounge suits worn for formal wear, single breasted for the countryside.

Top coat- well below knee in length , loose fitting with raglan or fitted sleeves. Double or single breasted , with white collar and reverse

1930 GEORGE V

•V-neck pull over•Plus – fours to below knee•Raglan sleeves•Deep patch pockets•Black evening suits•Long double breasted raincoats

•Trousers are no longer sew monstrously wide at the hems. Ready made clothes, of questionable fits, flood the market.

•Sports jacket- Mean and narrow in cut, tightly fitted waisted with broad lapels.

•Pullover- Knitted , plain or Fair Isle prints

Men started wearing ‘dust coats’. Coats had ear flaps as well.

Casual men’s golf wear

Coats and jackets with lapels

TEDDY BOYS, LEATHER BOYS AND DANDY FASHION

[1940-1960]

The style became famous among youth and teenagers and arouse great opposition.Thus, they were known , remained firmly jackets were long and single breasted , narrowLapels reaching the chest. Colors were mostly blues, reds and black while the collars, theFour front pockets and sleeves were edge stitched in black velvet cloth.

Brocaded waist coats were also worn with contrasting colors.

Trousers worn were light colored ankle length to reveal the bright colored socks.

TEDDY BOYS

ELIZABETH II - [1952-56]

•Piped pockets•Satin striped trousers•Pleated shirt•Long shawl collars•Welt pockets•Hood in the long jackets•Raglan sleeves•Narrow trousers with turn ups

ELIZABETH II – [1970-75]

•Polo neck jumper•High yoke•Suede jacket•Side zip fastening on shoulders•Top stitched edges•Flared trousers•Big patch pockets•Leather jackets

LEATHER BOYS

PIN STRIPES AND BLACK LEATHER

1990

In 1990s Flannel became popular and lasted through most of the decades unlike the fitted western shirts of the 70s which fastened the pearl snaps, the flannel shirts of 1990s were padded and loose fitting for optimum warmth.

Preppy clothing was popular in US, where wealthy young men wore Khaki slacks, navy blue blazers and canvas sports shoes.

In 1990s the bridge to the 21st century brings great change with the loose baggy silhouette of the early 1990s leading to slimmer suit profile. Business casual enters the lexicon.

21st century

In the 2000s, men started dressing up again, and the current era of sartorial individuality via colors, patterns or style commences.

Men wore-•Khaki slacks•Boot cut jeans•Track suits•Light colored polo shirts•White Adidas or Nike trainers•Camp shirts•Oxford shoes etc

FORMAL WEAR

• Formal wear is the general term for clothing suitable for formal events and occasions. Popular formal wear brands are

• Van heusen• Arrow• Peter England • Park Avenue• Raymonds etc

M A R K E T S E G ME N T A T I O N

Casual wear

Casual is the dress code that emphasizes comfort and personal expression over presentation, formality and conformity. It includes a very wide variety of apparels.

Denim wear

Denim is an iconic material which never goes out of style. It is always preferred because of its comfort and durability. Today we have brands which caters only denim apparels.

Most popular denim brands areDieselLeeLevis WranglerCalvin klein etc

Semi formals

• Most popular semi formal brands are

• Allen Solly• Scullers• Park Avenue• Color plus etc.

Semiformal are clothing which comes in between formal wear and casual wear

Street wear

• Jack and jones• Pepe jeans• diesel

ETHNIC WEAR

• Ethnic wear is referred to clothing which is traditional and worn on occasions like festivals, family functions and religious places

• Popular ethnic wear brands are

• Fabindia• Manyavar• Goodearth etc.

ACTIVE WEAR• Active wear refers to

functional clothing meant for activities like sports ,workouts etc.

• Popular active wear brands are

• Puma• Adiddas• Reebok• Nike• Decathlon etc.

Leisure wear

• Leisure wear refers to a category of clothing for holidays and vacation.

• Popular brands are• Zara men• Quicksilver• Billabong etc.

B O D Y T Y P ES• Relationship of human body shape to body size

• Determining factor• - Height• - Weight• - Lower – Upper body ratio• - Individual body parts weights like shoulders , chest , abdomen etc.

• Compared to women’s body, men have• - Wider shoulders• - Narrow hips• - Lower position of waist• - Higher position of knees

•Form of muscle and bone is more prominent because men typically have less fat than women.

• Body Fat - more in upper torso, less in lower torso• - more in abdomen and less hips

• Body types vary according to race and ethnicity.

•S M L XL are the standard way of sizing ( which is according to height )

TYPES

Ectomorph

•Small “delicate” frame and bone structure•Classic “hardgainer”•Flat chest•Small shoulders•Thin•Lean muscle mass•Finds it hard to gain weight•Fast metabolism

Mesomorph

•Athletic•Generally hard body•Well defined muscles•Rectangular shaped body•Strong•Gains muscle easily•Gains fat more easily than ectomorphs

Endomorph

•Soft and round body•Gains muscle and fat very easily•Is generally short•"Stocky" build•Round physique•Finds it hard to lose fat•Slow metabolism•Muscles not so well defined

HOW TO MEASURE?

FITS IN MENSWEAR• Fits in menswear have varied greatly over time.• Regency or early 19th century : tight fitting pants called breeches were

work, which came upto the knee.• Late 19h century: A well fitted suit called the tuxedo became popular• Edwardian era or early 1900s: he sack suit which is fitted a shoulders but

otherwise unfitted, loose and has no darts was popular.

• 1920s – 1940s: 1920s men began wearing wide, straight-legged trousers with their suits. These trousers normally measured 23 inches around the cuff. Younger men often wore even wider-legged trousers which were known as "Oxford bags.“ rousers began to be worn creased and ere worn very high-waisted throughout the 1920s and this fashion remained in vogue until the 1940s.

• Single-breasted suits were in style throughout the 1920s and the double-breasted suit was mainly worn by older more conservative men.

• In 1935, a complete change in style occurred. Loose fitting coats were introduced, trousers began to be tapered at the bottom and suit coats began to have tapered arms.

• Suit coats were also cut as straight as possible without any indication of a waistline. Cloth rationing changed styles significantly, contributing to a large reduction in the popularity of many cuts, such as the double-breasted suit.

• In the 1960s-70s, the tight three-piece suit was equated with the disco culture. Men wore bell-bottomed denims and trousers.

• In 1980s jackets grew longer and were loosely fitted with straight to loose cut trousers.

• Also subcultures such as punk and metal brought in tight fitting denims and latex trousers into fashion.

• 1990s- 2000s baggy fits came into fashion with the grunge and hip-hop subculture.

Contemporary Menswear fits include:Slim fit, classic fit, modern fit, loose

fit, body fitSlim fit : - thin and slender Slimming silhouetteSlim waistlineLess ease

Classic fitAlways in fashionFree from influence of fashion trends Emphasis on function rather than features2” inches more than slim fit

Modern fitLoose fit

Body fit

• 11th century- wool, linen, fur.• 12th century- wool, linen, silk, fur.• 13th century- linen, wool, fur.• 14th century-wool, silk, woven brocade, fur.• 15th century-wool, linen, hemp, fur.• 16th century-linen, silk, velvet, leather, lace, wool.• 17th century-linen, wool, velvet, lace.• 18th century-linen, silk, wool, twill cotton.

G A R M E N T M A T E R I A L S

• 19th century• Formal :linen, cotton, wool, polyester.• casual : denim(1871), linen, khakhi cotton, polo fabric, polyester-

leather, Seersucker• Sporty: spandex mix fabric, cotton, rib.

linen polyester denim polo

spandex rib leatherseersucker

• 20th century –till date• FORMAL: corduroy, polyester, linen, poly cotton.• CASUAL: polo, denim, stretchable denim, leather, canvas, knit.• SPORTS: polyester mix knit, mesh, spandex, terry, peaky fabric.

corduroycanvas terry

mesh

• YEAR 2015

Casual wear - Denim, Viscose Crepe, CottonParty wear - Linen, Silk, VelvetComfort wear - Linen, Knits, Cotton, Cotton blendsSports wear - Lycra, Sports Mesh, Knits, Polyesters, SpandexFormal wear - Corduroy, Velvet, Silks, Satin, Rayon, Wool, Herringbone, Hounds tooth