248 249Velimir Cindrić, TravelogueVelimir Cindrić, PutopisSan Sebastián, SpainSan Sebastián, Španjolska

¶ Nekoliko je minuta prije trinaest sati i starim dijelom Dono-stije žurimo u smjeru ribarnice, točnije do uličice Pescaderia gdje se na broju 11 smjestio bar Nestor. Žurba, dakako, nije slučajna, jer želimo kušati tortillu de patatas, poznati španjolski omlet od krumpira koji ni u jednome lokalu u zemlji nije pot-puno isti. Ovaj u Donostiji ima sufiks vasca, što na baskijskome znači – baskijski. Naime, tortilla u Nestoru je daleko najbolja u gradu, hrustava izvana i nevjerojatno kremaste strukture iznu-tra, a okus joj je pun i slastan. No to što se tu i obična tortilla drži sasvim prirodnim povodom za žurbu i raspravu o savršen-stvu samo pokazuje da se u slučaju San Sebastiána radi o europ-skoj gastronomskoj prijestolnici, gradu s najviše Michelinovih zvjezdica po glavi stanovnika, ali i kulinarskoj meki gdje čvrstu

¶ It’s a few minutes before 1 pm and we rush through the old parts of Donostia in the direction of the fish market, more precisely towards the small street of Pescaderia, where there is the Nestor bar at number 11. The rush is, naturally, not acci-dental because we want to taste the tortilla de patatas, the famous Spanish potato omelette, different at each restaurant in the country. The Nestor’s tortilla is by far best in town, crisp

San Sebastián

Čarolija za uživanje

San Sebastián

A Miracle to Enjoy

napisao written by

Velimir Cindrić

bazu idealno građene piramide gradskih restorana sačinjavaju demokratični pintxos barovi i zalogajnice u kojima se odlično jede za malo novca, sredinu elegantni restorani s kreativno interpretiranim favoritima lokalne kuhinje i umjerenim cijenama te vrh u koji su se smjestili gastro-hramovi svjetskoga glasa. Dovoljno je reći da se u malenome San Sebastiánu nalaze tri od ukupno sedam španjolskih restorana ocijenjenih s maksimalne tri Michelinove zvjezdice, od čega su dva stalni članovi top 10 društva liste The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, pa da sve bude jasno. ¶ Jedan od razloga zbog kojih je hrana, a posebno riba, itekako važna u San Sebastiánu jest i taj što je more koje ga okružuje prepuno iznimno kvalitetne ribe, rakova i školjki, što se lako može provjeriti na dvije velike gradske tržnice, a

on the outside and unbelievably creamy on the inside, the taste full and juicy. ¶ Still, a simple tortilla here is quite a natural reason to rush and discuss perfection, and this makes San Sebastián a European gastronomical capital, the city with the most Michelin stars per capita, but also a culinary Mecca. The strong foundation of the ideally constructed pyramid of the city’s restaurants are democratic pintxo bars and diners, where you can eat for little money; in the middle there are elegant restaurants with creatively interpreted favourites of the local cuisine and moderate prices; and the top are world-renowned gastro-temples. Suffice it to say that little San Sebastián hosts three of the total of seven Spanish restaurants given the maxi-mum of three Michelin stars, two of them permanent

Sansebastijanski zaljev La Concha koji zatvaraju brdašca Monte Igueldo i Monte Urgull

La Concha bay in San Sebastian, enclosed by the hills Monte Igueldo and Monte Urgull

(sst)

fotografijephotography by

Velimir Cindrić (VC); Hotel Maria Cristina (MC); Roland Halbe (RH); Jazzaldia Jazz Festival (JJF); Iker Merodio (IM); restoran / restaurant Arzac (A); restoran / restaurant Mugaritz (M); San Sebastián Turismo (SST); Starwood Hotels, Luxury collection (SH)

251Velimir Cindrić, Travelogue250 oris, number 82, year 2013 Velimir Cindrić, Putopisoris, broj 82, godina 2013

načinima spravljanja i kombinacijama (posebno se cijeni kokotxa, njegova podobrazina spremljena na žaru). Jedan od favorita je, naravno, i bakalar, ali on ipak, reći će domaćini, više pripada jelovnicima Bilbaa. ¶ Osim duge ribarske tradicije (ne zaboravimo da su Baskijci oko Grenlanda lovili bakalar znatno prije Kolumbova doba i ‘izmislili’ njegovo usoljavanje, tehniku koju nisu poznavali Vikinzi), valja napomenuti da raskošno zelena Baskija nudi i obilje vrlo plodne zemlje te široke osunčane doline gdje cvate uzgoj voća i povrća, kao i planinske krajeve kao stvorene za uzgoj ovaca. Stoga s brojnih malih farmi na sansebastijanske tržnice svakodnevno stiže i iznimno kvalitetno voće, povrće i meso. ¶ No daleko od toga da je hrana jedina atrakcija San Sebastiána. Ta atraktivna turistička destinacija ljeti je popularna radi kupanja i sunčanja na tri velike gradske pje-ščane plaže, a tijekom cijele godine poznata je i kao raj za jaha-nje na valovima. Osim toga, grad obiluje mnoštvom atraktivnih festivala od kojih je filmski jedan od najcjenjenijih u Europi, a bogat je i vrlo zanimljivim muzejima te urešen fascinantnom arhitekturom. Ne čudi onda da će San Sebastián 2016. ponijeti i titulu Europskog grada kulture. ¶ Svo to kulturno bogatstvo, naravno, ne dolazi niotkud, već je plod povoljnoga geografskog smještaja i zanimljive povijesti grada. Naime, smješten na naj-sjevernijoj točki Baskije, u dnu Biskajskoga zaljeva, San

posebno na La Bretxi čija ribarnica izgleda poput draguljarnice, gdje su na podlozi od mrvljenog leda pomno složeni impozantni primjerci iz morskih dubina, sve zbog neprestanog natjecanja štandova u atraktivnosti ponude. Posebno mjesto tu ima mer-luza ili veliki atlantski oslić, omiljena riba u San Sebastiánu, ponajviše zbog delikatna mesa primjerena najrazličitijim

Najbolja tortilla de patatas služi

se u Baru Nestor u starome gradu

The best tortilla de patatas served in the

Nestor bar in the old town

(vc)

Franz Xaver Winterhalter; portret kraljice Isabele II. Španjolske i njezine kćeri Isabele, Kraljevska palača Madrid.San Sebastián razvio se u mondeno ljetovalište zahvaljujući kraljici Isabele II., koja je grad odabrala za svoju ljetnu rezidenciju, odnosno ljekovite kupke

Franz Xaver Winterhalter; Portrait of Queen Isabella II of Spain and her daughter Isabella, Royal Palace of Madrid.San Sebastian developed into a fashionable summer vacation spot thanks to Queen Isabella II who chose this town for her summer residence, that is, medicinal baths

members of the Top 10 of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants. ¶ One of the reasons that food, especially seafood, is so impor-tant in San Sebastián is that the sea around it is full of extremely good quality fish, crab and shellfish, which can easily be seen at the two fish markets, especially La Bretxa that looks like a jewellery shop with impressive pieces from the sea’s depths displayed on beds of crushed ice, because the stands continu-ally compete to make their selections more attractive. A special place is reserved for merluza or the great Atlantic hake, the favourite fish in San Sebastián, primarily for its delicate meat suited to various preparations and combinations (kokotxa, grilled fillet, is especially valued). Another favourite is, natu-rally, cod, but our hosts will tell us it belongs more to the menus of Bilbao. ¶ Besides its long fishing tradition (let us not forget that the Basque fished for cod near Greenland long before the time of Columbus and they ‘invented’ the salt treat-ment, a technique the Vikings did not know), we should also mention that the lavishly green Basque country also offers an abundance of very fertile ground and wide, sunny valleys for fruit and vegetable production, as well as mountainous areas for sheep rearing. Thus especially good quality fruit, vegetables and meat come to the markets of San Sebastián from numer-ous small farms every day. ¶ Still, food is not the only attraction of San Sebastián, because this attractive tourist destination is popular in summer for swimming and sunbathing on three large sandy beaches in the city, and heaven for wind surfing all through the year. The city also offers a variety of attractive festivals, the film festival being one of the most respected in

Za razliku od ostatka Španjolske, Baskija je izrazito zelena i brdovita

Unlike the rest of Spain, the Basque country is very green and hilly

(im)

Omiljena riba u San Sebastiánu je

veliki atlantski oslić (merluza), koji je tu popularniji od

baskijskog favorita, bakalara

The favourite fish in San Sebastian is

Atlantic hake (merluza), more popular than the Basque favourite, cod

(vc)

Ribarnica La Bretxa. La Bretxa, the fish market. (vc)

253Velimir Cindrić, Travelogue252 oris, number 82, year 2013

(vc)

Velimir Cindrić, Putopisoris, broj 82, godina 2013

Sebastiánu je položaj podario vrlo blagu klimu tijekom cijele godine. Grad se razvio uz idilično oblikovan zaljev La Concha čije krajeve štite brdašca Monte Igueldo s jedne i Monte Urgull s druge strane, dok između njih, u sredini zaljeva, leži otok Santa Clara, sklop što zatvara nevjerojatno lijepu cjelinu koja namjernika očara na prvi pogled. ¶ Prirodna ljepota i strateški položaj San Sebastiána bili su uzrokom brojnih krvavih bitaka i paljevina grada tijekom mračnoga srednjeg vijeka, da bi napo-kon u 19. stoljeću grad dočekao sretnija vremena. Ona su nago-viještena zanimljivom pričom vezanom uz španjolsku kraljicu Isabelu ii. Naime, povijesni podaci govore kako je jadnica patila od neugodne kožne bolesti, zbog čega su joj dvorski liječnici

preporučili ljekovite morske kupke. Sreća je htjela da je Isabel 1845. odabrala baš sansebastijanske plaže, kao i to da je terapija dala učinka.Kraljica je sa svojim dvorjanima u San Sebastiánu ljeti redovito boravila po nekoliko mjeseci, što je privuklo i brojne pripadnike aristokracije. Grad je odjednom postao mon-den te počeo privlačiti dobrostojeće ljude iz čitave zapadne Europe, što je pak potaknulo urbanistički razvoj i uzrokovalo populacijsku eksploziju početkom 20. stoljeća. ¶ Istovremeno, nošen elegantnim novim građevinama s potpisom slavnih špa-njolskih i francuskih arhitekata, San Sebastián je ušao u razdo-blje nazvano belle époque te postao kozmopolitska turistička destinacija i zabavište za pripadnike viših europskih klasa, čemu nije odmogla ni činjenica da je i kraljica Maria Cristina (danas njeno ime nosi najluksuzniji gradski hotel) ljeti stolovala u San Sebastiánu. U središtu grada nicali su novi otmjeni hoteli, kasina i kazališta, koji su za trajanja Prvog svjetskog rata poslužili i kao dom i razbibriga mnogih europskih imućnika. Takvo kozmopo-litsko ozračje zadržalo se do današnjih dana, a od sredine 20. stoljeća nadalje grad je, zahvaljujući projektima što su prirodno

Europe, very interesting museums and fascinating architec-ture. It is no wonder San Sebastián will be the European Capital of Culture in 2016. ¶ All this cultural richness, naturally, does not come from nowhere, but is the fruit of a favourable geo-graphical location and the city’s interesting history. San Sebastián is located on the far northern point of the Basque Country, the bottom of the Bay of Biscay. It has a very moder-ate climate all year round. The city developed along the idyl-lically shaped La Concha bay, protected from both sides by Monte Igueldo and Monte Urgull, while in the middle of the bay there is the island of Santa Clara, all creating an incredibly beautiful landscape that fascinates at first glance. ¶ The natural beauty and strategic location of San Sebastián were the cause of numerous bloody battles and burnings during the dark Mid-dle Ages, but the town finally saw happier times in the 19th century. There is an interesting story related to Span’s Queen Isabel ii. Historical data said she suffered from an uncomfort-able skin disease, so court physicians recommended sea baths. In 1845 the queen chose the beaches of San Sebastián and the therapy was successful. Therefore, from that year on the queen and the court regularly spent several months in San Sebastián, which attracted numerous members of the aristocracy. The

town became fashionable and attracted wealthy people from Western Europe, what assisted the town planning and con-struction and caused a population explosion at the beginning of the 20th century. ¶ At the same time, on the wings of ele-gant new buildings signed by famous Spanish and French archi-tects, San Sebastián entered the period called the Belle Époque and become a cosmopolitan tourist destination and a play-ground for members of Europe’s upper classes, also assisted

Glavna atrakcija najstarijeg španjolskog

akvarija jest stakleni tunel koji omogućuje

bliske susrete s morskim psima

The main attraction of Spain’s oldest

aquarium is the glass tunnel that enables

close encounters with sharks

(vc)

La Concha beach, the popular beach and promenade, is surrounded by some nice examples of Belle Époque construction

Plaža La Concha, omiljeno kupalište i šetalište, obrubljeno nizom lijepih primjera belle epoque graditeljstva

Noćnom panoramom dominira Koncertna dvorana i kongresni

centar Kursaal arhitekta Rafaela Monea

The night panorama is dominated by the

Concert Hall and the Kursaal Congress

Centre by architect Rafael Moneo.

(sst)

Stara razglednica s motivima glavnih atrakcija San Sebastiána

A postcard of Maria Cristina hotel, named after the queen who also spent summers in San Sebastian

(sh)

Predvorje nedavno temeljito obnovljena hotela Maria Cristina, najluksuznijega u gradu

The lobby of the renovated hotel Maria Cristina, the most luxurious in town

(mc)

255Velimir Cindrić, Travelogue254 oris, number 82, year 2013 Velimir Cindrić, Putopisoris, broj 82, godina 2013

by the fact that Queen Maria Cristina (today, the most luxuri-ous hotel bears her name) used to spend summers in San Sebastián. New, posh hotels, casinos and theatres were built in the centre and used as a home and for leisure by many wealthy Europeans during World War I. This cosmopolitan atmosphere has remained until today, and from the middle of the 20th century the town realized its economic, cultural and tourist potential due to projects combining its natural and historic heritage with modernity. ¶ As is appropriate for a luxu-rious summer destination, fully comparable to Cannes or Nice, the life of San Sebastián is mostly oriented towards the beaches in the centre. The largest and the most popular is La Concha, that dominates the centre of the city and has an attractive promenade bordered by a series of beautiful exam-ples of Belle Époque architecture, with a perfect view of the old town, the fisherman’s harbour and the entire bay. Farther along the beach, up to Mount Igueldo with its 100-year-old

funicular, there is the shorter and more protected beach Ond-arreta, the favourite town beach, very crowded in summer. Its end is also the end of the long sea promenade with a famous artwork by Basque sculptor Eduardo Chillida, called El Peine del Viento, that is, Wind Comb, that has now become one of the symbols of San Sebastián. At the other end, where the promenade begins, along the edge of the Zona Gros district, lies La Zurriola. Due to high waves this is the place for wind surfing, although many young people come for sunbathing and entertainment. On one side of Zurriola there is Kursaal by the famous Spanish architect Rafael Moneo. The building won the Mies van der Rohe award as the best European house in 1996. ¶ At Kursaal we joined numerous pedestrians and joggers (both a favourite activity of local people) on the El Paseo Nuevo promenade that brought us around Mount Urgull and the pic-turesque harbour along the western edge of the old town, where we stopped at one of the most visited attractions in town – the Aquarium, the oldest in Spain and recently remod-elled. Along with a very informative museum about Basque fishing tradition (especially whaling), we found out that the fantastic glass tunnel and numerous fish species swimming around it not only fascinate children, but also adults. After that we went along to La Concha to enjoy the terrace of the popular La Perla, a view of the late swimmers and a gin and tonic, the ‘official unofficial’ drink of San Sebastián, made to perfection, every place in their own way. ¶ In the evening we followed the example of our hosts and joined them in the traditional even-ing socializing in the pintxo bars. There are many of these in San Sebastián, more per capita than anywhere else, a fact that the proud Basque hosts will happily mention many times.

i povijesno naslijeđe vješto spajali s modernitetom, potpuno realizirao svoj ekonomski, kulturni i turistički potencijal. ¶ Kako i priliči luksuznom ljetovalištu, čiji se šarm s punim pravom može mjeriti s onim Cannesa i Nice, život San Sebastiána dobrim je dijelom orijentiran prema plažama u samom središtu grada. Najveća i najpopularnija od njih, La Concha, dominira

središtem grada i ujedno predstavlja atraktivno šetalište obru-bljeno niskom lijepih primjera belle époque graditeljstva, s kojega se pruža savršen pogled na stari grad, ribarsku lučicu i čitav zaljev. U njenu nastavku, sve do pod brdo Igueldo na čiji panoramski vidikovac vozi stoljetna uspinjača, pruža se kraća, ali zaštićenija plaža Ondarreta, omiljeno gradsko kupalište, gdje je ljeti uvijek najveća gužva. Ujedno, njezin krajnji rub zapravo je konac duge sansebastijanske uzmorske šetnice na kome se nalazi čuveno djelo baskijskog skulptora Eduarda Chillide pod imenom El Peine del Viento, odnosno Češalj vjetra, koje je postalo jednim od simbola San Sebastiána. Na suprotnome kraju pak, gdje ta šetnica započinje, uz rub četvrti Zona Gros, smjestila se La Zurriola gdje je zbog velikih valova glavni sport daskanje, mada uvijek ima i mlađe publike koja se tu sunča i zabavlja. S jedne strane Zurriole nalazi se Kursaal čuvenog špa-njolskog arhitekta Rafaela Monea. Zgrada je nagrađena nagra-dom Mies van der Rohe kao najbolja europska kuća 1996. godine. ¶ Kod Kursaala pridružili smo se brojnim šetačima i jog-gerima (oboje omiljena aktivnost lokalaca) na šetnici El paseo Nuevo, koja nas je oko brda Urgull dovela do pitoreskne lučice uz zapadni rub staroga grada gdje smo usput svratili u jednu od najposjećenijih atrakcija u gradu – sansebastijanski Akvarij, najstariji u Španjolskoj i nedavno temeljito restauriran. Uz vrlo poučni muzejski dio koji govori o tradiciji baskijskoga ribarstva (osobito zanimljiva povijest kitolova), uvjerili smo se da fanta-stični stakleni tunel, gdje oko posjetitelja plivaju najrazličitije vrste riba, ne oduševljava samo djecu, već i odrasle. Nakon toga nije nam bilo druge negoli produžiti do La Conche i na terasi popularnog lokala La Perla, uz pogled na kasnoposlijepodnevne kupače, uživati u gin-tonic koktelu, inače ‘službenom

Nepregledan niz pintxosa u gradskim

barovima predvodi temeljni po imenu

Gilda, nazvan prema liku Rite Hayworth

iz istoimenoga filma (1946)

An endless series of pintxos in the city

bars, led by the basic Gilda named after Rita Hayworth’s character

from the film Gilda (1946)

(sst)

Pintxosi, minijaturne gastro-kreacije u rasponu od jednostavnih do kompleksnih, s klasičnim, modernim, pa čak i avangardnim kombinacijama jedan su od udarnih turističkih aduta grada, delicije uz koje se, u pohodu od bara do bara, zabavlja do sitnih sati

Pintxos – miniature gastronomic creations ranging from simple to complex, with classic, modern and even avant-garde combinations – are one of the principal tourist assets of the town, delicacies to be enjoyed in various bars until the morning hours

(vc)

257Velimir Cindrić, Travelogue256 oris, number 82, year 2013 Velimir Cindrić, Putopisoris, broj 82, godina 2013

neslužbenom’ piću San Sebastiána, koje tu spravljaju perfekci-onistički, i to svaki lokal na svoj način. ¶ I navečer smo, dakako, slijedili primjer domaćina i pridružili im se u tradicionalnom večernjem pohodu na druženje u pintxos barovima. Njih u San Sebastiánu ima najviše po glavi stanovnika na svijetu, što će vam ponosni Baski rado više puta spomenuti. I to s punim pra-vom, jer su ti barovi doista nešto posebno i samo naoko slični uobičajenim španjolskim inačicama. Naziv su, naravno, dobili prema pintxosima, malim zalogajima koji se u njima služe, a koji su u Baskiji obično nabodenima na čačkalicu (otud im i ime, jer pintxo na baskijskome znači bodlja). Iako su pintxosi, kao i tapasi, izloženi na dugim tezgama barova (la barra), baskijski, a posebno sansebastijanski, znatno su raznovrsniji, kreativniji i maštovitiji, što ih iz područja krišaka kruha s nadjevom često prebacuje na ono minijaturnih gastro-kreacija neobičnih kom-binacija i struktura, toplih ili hladnih, često posluženih na posebnim tanjurićima, u čašama, pa čak i epruvetama, a pone-kad s nekoliko vrsta umaka i sličnim ekstravagancijama, dakle vrlo kompleksna jela u minijaturnom izdanju. ¶ Pintxos barovi rasprostranjeni su širom grada, no njihova se najveća koncen-tracija ipak nalazi u starome dijelu grada (Parte Vieja), mreži uskih pješačkih uličica koje su jednako atraktivan poligon kako turistima, tako i lokalcima. Najviše ih je nedaleko čarobno lijepe bazilike Nuestra Señora del Coro u Ulici 31 de Agosto, gdje se, zbog velike konkurencije i tradicionalnog baskijskog kompeti-tivnog duha, pintxos barovi međusobno nadmeću ponudom, atraktivnošću i originalnošću svojih kreacija. ¶  ‘Važno je stalno imati nove autorske pintxose, ali se stalno vraćati i klasicima,

pimiento del piquillo (blood sausage with the piquillo pepper) and foie frio con cebolla caramelizada (goose liver with cara-melized onions),’ say chefs Marc Clua and Iñaki Gulin from the Borda-Berri bar, who often dedicate their dishes to their regu-lars (Amon croquette potatoes and Idizabal’s risotto). ¶ Still, Gilda is to be found everywhere, proto-pintxos – salty anchovy filets on a stick wrapped around four green chili peppers and some olives. This popular pintxo, often the beginning of a long series of bites, was named after the character of a seductress, played by Rita Hayworth in the film of the same name in 1946. ¶ From Gilda, pintxos go in the most varied directions. For example, the Martinez bar serves pintxos frios or fried pintxos, Ganbarra is proud of their crab and octopus bites, while La Cepa nurtures the traditional pintxo with various kinds of smoked ham, sausages, tripe, snails... At the other end of the scale, modern and avant-garde pintxos are served in bars such as A Fuego Negro (chicken pâté with corn and soup mousse; crab meat with avocado and liquorice ...), then Zeruko (pickled pig’s ear with frozen mole sauce; mackerel with sheep cheese, mint and sour cherries...) and La Cuchara de San Telmo (piglet in sesame sauce, goose liver in mango sauce...). This goes on forever, from bar to bar, during the evening with relatives or friends, usually with a glass of rosé wine (txikito) or a small beer (zurito), but best with fresh local wine (txakoli), perfect for all pintxos, the wine traditionally poured from up high. The Basques call such an outing, usually lasting till the morning

Crkva Sv. Marije (Nuestra Señora del Coro) u ulici 31 de Agosto, gdje se nalaze najpopularniji gradski pintxos barovi

The church of St. Mary (Nuestra Señora del Coro) in 31 de Agosto street where the most popular pintxo bars are located These bars are really special and only seemingly similar to the

usual Spanish versions. They got their name from the famous small bites served there, usually on a toothpick (hence the name, thorn). ¶ Although pintxos, as well as tapas, are dis-played on the long bars (la barra), the Basque, especially those from San Sebastián, are much varied, creative and imaginative, which takes them from bread with fillings to miniature gastro-creations of unusual combinations and structures, warm and cold, often served on special plates, glasses, even in test tubes, sometimes with several kinds of dip and similar extravaganzas, meaning, very complex dishes in miniature. ¶ There are pintxo bars all over the city, but they are concentrated in the old town (Parte Vieja), a network of narrow pedestrian streets, attrac-tive both to tourists and locals. Most of them are around the magically beautiful basilica Nuestra Señora del Coro at 31 de Agosto, where, due to competition and the traditional Basque competitive spirit, pintxo bars compete in the range of their pintxos, attractiveness and the originality of their creations. ¶ ‘It is important to constantly create new pintxos, but also to return to the classics, because regular customers expect them. So, along with some more daring creations, we also keep to the usual, such as pimiento relleno de brandada de bacalao (peppers filled with white creamy cod spread), morcilla con

jer to od vas očekuje stalna klijentela. Uz odvažnije kreacije uvijek moramo u ponudi imati pintxose kao što su pimiento relleno de brandada de bacalao (paprike punjene kremastim bakalarom na bijelo), morcilla con pimiento del piquillo (krvavica s papričicom piquillo) i foie frio con cebolla caramelizada (gusja jetra s karameliziranim lukom)’, objašnjavaju nam kuhari Marc Clua i Iñaki Gulin iz bara Borda-Berri koji nerijetko jela posve-ćuju i stalnim gostima (kroketi Amon i Idizabalov rižoto). ¶ Ono što će namjernik ipak naći svugdje jest Gilda koja se može držati proto-pintxom – filet slanog inćuna naboden na ražnjić i omo-tan oko četiri zelene čili papričice i nekoliko maslina. Taj popu-larni pintxo, kojim mnogi često započinju nepreglednu seriju, nazvan je prema fatalnome liku zavodnice koju u istoimenome filmu iz 1946. glumi Rita Hayworth. ¶ Od Gilde pintxosi idu u najrazličitijim mogućim smjerovima. Tako se, recimo, bar Mar-tinez bavi kategorijom pintxos frios ili prženim pintxosima, Ganbara se ponosi svojim zalogajima od rakova i hobotnice, dok La Cepa njeguje tradicionalni pintxo s različitim vrstama pršuta, kobasica, tripica, puževa... Na drugom pak kraju skale, suvremeni i avangardni pintxosi služe se u barovima A Fuego Negro (pileća pašteta s kukuruzom i pjenicom od juhe; račje meso s avokadom i slatkim korijenom...), zatim Zeruko (ukise-ljeno svinjsko uho s ledenim umakom mole; skuša s ovčjim

Uz pintxose mnogima najbolje odgovara

txakoli, svježe lokalno vino, koje se, da bi

se zapjenilo i bilo još više osvježavajuće,

tradicionalno toči iz visine

Pintxos are best with Txakoli, a fresh local

wine, traditionally poured from high

above the glass in order to foam and be more

refreshing

(vc)

Pintxo bar A Fuego Negro offers classic specialties, but also avant-garde pintxos, often served in glasses, test tubes, with pipettes…

Pintxo bar A Fuego Negro, uz klasičnu ponudu specijaliziran i za avangardne pintxose, često poslužene u čašama, epruvetama, s pipetama...

Mala ribarska lučica, neposredno uz stari dio grada (Parte Vieja) The small fishermen’s harbour near

to the old part of town (Parte Vieja)

(vc)

(vc)(vc)

259Velimir Cindrić, Travelogue258 oris, number 82, year 2013 Velimir Cindrić, Putopisoris, broj 82, godina 2013

hours, txikiteo. ¶ Pintxos have a strong social role and are con-sidered the foundation of Basque culture and society, because they combine people, often of several generations, who con-sider evenings out and socializing with food and drink a life-style. Therefore, even in tourist centres such as San Sebastián, tourists will hardly be louder than the locals. The local inhabit-ants of Donostia (honouring our host) are perfectionists used to a high quality of gastronomy at all levels, guaranteeing there are no average, let alone bad restaurants, because they would soon close. ¶ The Museo de San Telmo, opened in 1902 and today an exceptionally interesting modern museum, speaks best of the Basque Country, the Basque people and their way of living. The museum contains a rich painting gallery and a multi-disciplinary review of all aspects of Basque society and culture – from history, national identity and social evolution to the culture of food and drink, Basque sports... We spent several hours in the museum, not noticing the time. ¶ The original San Telmo building is a Dominican monastery from the 16th century, a unique example of the architecture in the Gipuzkoa district, of which San Sebastián is the capital, of a

certain fusion of Gothic and Renaissance styles. The modern annex to the museum – between the urban core and Monte Urgull and designed by architects Nieto & Sobejano – has a unique façade that melts into the hill and whose perforated parts allow vegetation growth, just as it grows naturally on the hillside. ¶ During our visit and the second oldest European jazz festival, Jazzaldia, midnight concerts were held in the acoustically perfect church of the monastery, today part of the Museum. This festival regularly hosts the leading jazz names, and many music fans from all over the world come to the city at the end of July. The festival is held on ten stages around the city. The largest of them, the stage on the Zurriola beach, hosts the greatest stars of pop music (the Festival is open to cross-over styles), and attracts up to ten thousand spectators to the late night concerts. It is interesting to mention that Jazzaldia included one of Croatia’s jazz musicians in its star programme, pianist and composer Matija Dedić, who thrilled the audience with his two concerts. ¶ Besides the already mentioned San Sebastián International Film Festival (September) and the gas-tro congress Gastronomika (October), one of the most

San Sebastian nije samo europska gastronomska prijestolnica, već i atraktivna turistička destinacija, čuvena i po mnogobrojnim festivalima

San Sebastian is not only an European gastronomical capital, but also an attractive tourist destination, famous for its many festivals

zanimljiv suvremeni muzej koji, osim bogate galerije slika, sadr-žava multidisciplinarni pregled svih aspekata baskijskoga druš-tva i kulture – od povijesti, nacionalne pripadnosti i evolucije društva pa do kulture jela i pića, baskijskih sportova... I ne pri-mijetivši smo u muzeju proveli nekoliko sati. ¶ Originalna zgrada San Telma zapravo je dominikanski samostan iz 16. stoljeća, jedinstven primjer arhitekture oblasti Gipuzkoa čije je San Seba-stián glavni grad, svojevrsne fuzije gotičkog i renesansnog stila. Suvremeni aneks muzeja, između urbane jezgre i brda Urgull, koji su projektirali arhitekti Nieto & Sobejano, ima jedinstvenu fasadu što se stapa s brdom i čiji perforirani dijelovi dopuštaju rast vegetacije, baš kao i na stijeni brda. ¶ Za našega posjeta, tijekom održavanja drugog najstarijeg europskog jazz festivala Jazzaldia, ponoćni koncerti su održavani i u savršeno akustičnoj crkvi samostana, danas u sklopu Muzeja. Spomenuti festival, na kojem redovito nastupaju vodeća imena jazza i koji u grad koncem srpnja privuče ljubitelje te glazbe iz cijeloga svijeta, održava se na deset pozornica širom grada. Najveća od njih, ona na plaži Zurriola, gdje sviraju najveće zvijezde popularne glazbe (festival je otvoren crossover stilovima), na kasnonoćne koncerte privuče i do desetak tisuća slušatelja. Zanimljivo je spomenuti da je ove godine Jazzaldia po prvi put u svoj zvjez-dani program uvrstila i jednog hrvatskog jazz glazbenika, pija-nista i skladatelja Matiju Dedića koji je na svoja dva koncerta oduševio posjetitelje. ¶ Uz već spomenuti čuveni San Sebastián International Film Festival (rujan) i gastro kongres Gastrono-mika (listopad), jedan od najutjecajnijih u svijetu, Jazzaldia predvodi impresivan niz priredaba koje grad ugošćuje svake godine, među kojima su još i Cook and Fashion Festival (neo-bičan spoj visoke mode i gastronomije), glazbeni Music Forth-night, kazališni festival dFeria te više specijaliziranih događanja poput Surfing Film Festivala (Surfilm), Fantasy and Horror Film Festivala i El Sol Latin American Advertising Festivala. Jedna od

sirom, metvicom i višnjama...) i La Cuchara de San Telmo (odo-jak u umaku sa sezamom, gusja jetra u umaku od manga...). I tako u nedogled, od bara do bara, za vrijeme druženja s rođa-cima ili prijateljima, obično uz čašicu roséa (txikito) ili malo pivo (zurito), a najbolje uz svježe lokalno vino (txakoli), koje sjajno odgovara uz sve oblike pintxosa i koje se, da bi se zapjenilo, tradicionalno toči iz velike visine. Baski takav pohod, koji zna potrajati do ranih jutarnjih sati, nazivaju txikiteo. ¶ Tu se mora naglasiti da pintxosi imaju vrlo jaku društvenu ulogu i da se drže kamenom temeljcem baskijske kulture i društva jer okupljaju ljude, često i više različitih generacija, kojima su izlasci i druže-nje uz jelo i piće stil života. Upravo stoga, čak i u takvim turi-stičkim središtima kakav je San Sebastián, turisti vrlo teško mogu nadjačati lokalce. To, kao i činjenica što su stanovnici (udovoljimo domaćinu) Donostije, kad je u pitanju gastronomija svih razina, perfekcionisti navikli na visoku kvalitetu, garantira da u gradu nema ni prosječnih, a kamoli loših restorana, jedno-stavno zato što bi istoga časa propali. ¶ O Baskiji, Baskijcima i njihovu načinu života najbolje će nas poučiti Museo de San Telmo, otvoren davne 1902. i danas preuređen u iznimno

influential in the world, Jazzaldia leads an impressive series of events that the city organizes each year, such as the Cook and Fashion Festival (an unusual combination of high fashion and gastronomy), the Music Forthnight, Feast of Theatre and more specialized events, like the Surfing Film Festival (Surfilm), Fan-tasy and Horror Film Festival and El Sol Latin American

Green Stage na plaži Zurriola,

najveća pozornica sansebastijanskog jazz

festivala Jazzaldia

Green Stage on Zurriola beach, the largest

sound stage of the San Sebastian jazz festival

Jazzaldia

Trg ispred muzeja San Telmo, projekta arhitektata Nieto & Sobejano

The square in front of the San Telmo museum, the project by the architects Nieto & Sobejano

(jjf)

(rh)

261Velimir Cindrić, Travelogue260 oris, number 82, year 2013 Velimir Cindrić, Putopisoris, broj 82, godina 2013

najživopisnijih priredaba je Rompeolas Festival (Svačiji festival) na kojem su glavne zvijezde sami građani, posjetitelji grada i prolaznici koji se okušavaju u domenama glazbe, kazališta, plesa i još koječega. Od namjernika se očekuje samo prepuštanje osjećajima. ¶ Bez obzira na sve, svaki posjet San Sebastiánu mora uključiti i ručak ili večeru u barem jednom od vodeća četiri gradska restorana – Arzak, Martín Berasategui, Akelaŕe i Mugaritz. Svaki od njih ima i svoj laboratorij koji je izravan odraz povijesne gradske institucije koju tu nazivaju txoko ili sociedad gastronómica. Radi se o gastronomskim klubovima koje ute-meljuju prijatelji iz određenog kvarta, a u kojima se kuha, ekspe-rimentira, isprobavaju se nove kulinarske tehnike, odnosno gdje se jede, raspravlja o hrani i jednostavno – druži. Zahvaljujući

Advertising Festival. One of the most vivid events is the Rompeolas Festival (Everybody’s Festival), where the stars are the citizens themselves, visitors and passers-by, who show their skills in music, theatre, dance and much more. It is expected of you only to release your emotions. ¶ Regardless of everything, each visit to San Sebastián must include a lunch or dinner in at least one of the four leading city restaurants – Arzak, Martin Berasateui, Akelaŕe or Mugaritz. Each has its own laboratory, which is a direct reflection of the historic city institution called here txoko or sociedad gastronómica. These are gastronomical clubs, founded by neighbourhood friends, where they cook, experiment, try new culinary techniques, that is, eat, discuss food or simply – socialize. Thanks to them

and the pioneers of the movement of the New Basque Cuisine (cucina nueva vasca), Juan Mari Arzaku and Pedro Subijani, as well as their supporters – Martín Berasategui, Elena Arzak Espina and Andonio Luis Aduriz, the most avant-garde gas-tronomical creations may be tasted in San Sebastián today. Still, these are in no way exclusive locations, but restaurants frequented regularly by local people with average salaries. ¶ Be that as it may, San Sebastián will impress everyone at first glance, at the moment the visitor dives into its life from any perspective. The city will, as if by magic, manage to surprise and fascinate, to bring out emotions that are said to be parts of every true love. It is not said in vain that to visit San Sebastián means to fall in love.

njima i pionirima pokreta nove baskijske kuhinje (cucina nueva vasca), Juanu Mari Arzaku i Pedru Subijani, te njihovim nastav-ljačima – Martínu Berasateguiju, Eleni Arzak Espina i Andoniju Luisu Adurizu, u San Sebastiánu se danas mogu kušati najavan-gardnije gastronomske kreacije na svijetu. Nikako se ne radi o ekskluzivističkim mjestima, nego restoranima u koje redovito zalaze i lokalci prosječnih primanja. ¶ Bilo kako bilo, San Seba-stián će svakog posjetitelja zadiviti već na prvi pogled, a kad u svakom novom trenutku i iz bilo koje perspektive zaroni u nje-gov život, grad će ga, poput kakve čarolije, uspjeti iznenaditi i očarati, izmamiti osjećaje za koje se drži da su bit svake prave ljubavi. Ne kažu onda uzalud da je posjetiti San Sebastián isto što i zaljubiti se.

Juan Mari Arzak, otac nove baskijske kuhinje, i njegova kći Elena, koji zajednički vode kuhinju

restorana Arzak, jednog od najboljih u

svijetu (tri Michelinove zvjezdice, 8. na listi

World’s 50 Best Restaurants).

Juan Mari Arzak, the father of the new

Basque cuisine, and his daughter Elena manage

the kitchen of Arzak restaurant, one of the

best in the world (three Michelin stars), 8th on the list of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants)

Složenac od jastoga u cvjetnom fondu, restoran Arzak

A lobster casserole on a bed of flowers, Arzak restaurant

Andoni Aduriz (desno, s naočalama), najavangardniji sansebastijanski chef, koji u Errenteriji, u prirodi izvan grada, vodi restoran Mugaritz koji je već godinama među četiri najbolja svjetska restorana.

Šarena salata od divljeg i uzgojenog bilja, restoran

Mugaritz A multi-coloured salad of

wild and grown vegetables in Mugaritz restaurant

Andoni Aduriz (right, with glasses), the most avant-garde chef in San Sebastian, who manages one of the world’s four best restaurants in Errenteria, in the countryside outside the city

(vc)(a) (m)(a)