Upload
chena230
View
213
Download
0
Embed Size (px)
DESCRIPTION
"Autumn/Winter 2014 Wardrobe Essentials." Styling Directives Taken From New York Runway Analysis. Date Completed: April 2014. Brief: The Tobe Report - Internship Application. Before being accepted as an intern at The Tobe Report, I was asked to demonstrate my eye for fashion trends by reviewing all A/W 14 New York runway shows and pulling out the key styling directives which I felt were especially important.
Citation preview
Autumn/Winter 2014
Wardrobe
Essentials Styling Directives Taken from
New York Runway Analysis
Casual Luxury Unstructured Volume for Easy Layering
Androgyny Menswear-Inspired & Utilitarian Classics
Outdoor Urban Athletic Gear with Youthful Twists
Three Macro Catwalk Trends
• cocooning outerwear and lofty knits
• colors: greys, camel, dusty pink, olive green
• historical allusions (60s glam)
• fur
• oversized menswear and well-tailored suits
• wide-cropped and slouchy trousers
• colors: neutrals and navy
• prints & patterns: plaid and tweed
• varsity jackets, bombers, metallic parkas
• colors: monotones paired with bright pops of color (red, yellow, etc.)
• experimentation (in proportions, construction, prints, etc.)
• collegiate letters, logos, graphics
Designer / Young Designer
Contemporary / Young Contemporary
Accessories / Footwear
Teen / Tween
Market
Segments Three Must-Have Pieces
DESIGNER AN OVERSIZED COAT
A pivotal product category this season, voluminous
outerwear was a standout in numerous collections.
Cocooning the body while keeping it warm, it was sent
down runways in a variety of colors. Try a monochrome
piece, such as The Row’s version in shale grey, or opt for
a more eye-catching, patterned number, such as the
one from Proenza Schouler.
Altuzarra
The Row
Proenza Schouler
Creatures of Comfort
DESIGNER FURRY OUTERWEAR
Fur was an especially prominent fabric for outerwear –
whether it was just accenting a piece (as in Jason Wu’s)
or the main focus (as in Ralph Lauren’s), this tactile
fabric breathes femininity and elegance into any
wardrobe. For more daring consumers, try it in one of
this season’s hit colors, red, like the one from J. Mendel.
Jason Wu
Ralph Lauren
Carolina Herrara
J. Mendel
DESIGNER A TOUCH OF FLORAL
Blurred, smudged flowers was a key floral story this
season, as seen in Peter Som’s dress. Flowers also added
a bright pop of color and gave a feminine touch to
otherwise masculine styling. This versatile print is perfect
for both tops – like Michael Kors’ delicate blouse – and
bottoms – such as Oscar de la Renta’s flared skirt.
Oscar de la Renta
Peter Som
Thakoon
Michael Kors
YOUNG DESIGNER A VOLUMINOUS SWEATER
Volume was the focus of this season’s other important
product category, knitwear. Try Calvin Klein’s version, in
fuzzy mohair, or get swallowed up in The Row’s
minimalist, chunky take. Go traditional and pair it with
your favorite pair of jeans, or experiment your styling
and throw your sweater over a long skirt.
Prabal Gurung
Calvin Klein Marc Jacobs
The Row
YOUNG DESIGNER RETHOUGHT DENIM
Denim was a hit this season especially for the youth market,
but designers were keen to rethink the material. The
innovative results gave this traditional fabric a much-needed
update. Steven Allen’s quilted take, Ostwald Helgason’s
iridescent version, and Pamela Roland’s art-deco
embellishments breathe forward-thinking into any outfit.
Pamela Roland
Ostwald Helgason
Steven Allen
Nicholas K
YOUNG DESIGNER A GRAPHIC DRESS
Dresses are a wardrobe staple for any young consumer, but
this season it was all about the pieces’ graphic designs.
Inspiration came from a variety of sources: global cultures,
wintry florals, collegiate numbers, 3D-effects… whether
printed on a shift or sweater dress, eye-catching graphics
were experimented and played with to channel the young
consumer’s own penchant for fun.
Jeremy Scott
Ostwald Helgason Tess Giberson
Suno
CONTEMPORARY A MASCULINE, SLOUCHY TROUSER
The wide, fluid legs of mannish trousers from designers such
as Karen Walker and Tibi gave collections a utilitarian twist.
Try a pair in one of this season’s key fabric directives,
traditional tweed (as seen in Creatures of Comfort’s design),
or go for a cropped version like A.L.C’s.
Tibi
Creatures of Comfort A.L.C.
Karen Walker
CONTEMPORARY RUFFLES
Ruffles add a touch of romance to any piece - the detail was
even seen in knitwear, such as in this Phillip Lim sweater. The
asymmetry of the ruffle accent seen in Victoria Beckham’s
top makes a simple blouse a standout number. And in
Alexander Herchcovitch’s Victorian-inspired collection, the
ruffle details gave his camisoles a dreamy feel.
Milly
Alexander Herchcovitch
3.1 Phillip Lim
Victoria Beckham
CONTEMPORARY AN UNEVEN HEMLINE DRESS
An uneven hemline gives any dress interesting asymmetry.
Opening Ceremony’s architectural piece is youthful and
injects newness into your wardrobe. ICB’s touch of graphic is
an example of tasteful cut-and-paste, while DKNY’s sporty,
urban styling channels this season’s athletic theme.
BCBY Max Mara DKNY
ICB Opening Ceremony
YOUNG CONTEMPORARY A TEXTURED SWEATER
Unconventional experimentations was not just seen in
graphics and prints, but also in fabric and texture
considerations. The tactile results from the likes of Nonoo and
Nicole Miller make the traditional sweater a standout
number. Try Alexander Wang’s bright, futuristic version, or
Opening Ceremony’s sequined design.
Nicole Miller
Opening Ceremony Alexander Wang
Nonoo
YOUNG CONTEMPORARY A UTILITARIAN DRESS
Pay homage to the Industrial Revolution with a utilitarian
dress. Designers added some ruggedness to their collections
by taking inspiration from work-wear and uniforms. Wearers of creations from the likes of Rag & Bone and Tommy Hilfiger
will enjoy practicality and unrestricted movement. And, as
pastels were a pivotal color palette this fall, try Lacoste’s take
in mint green.
Lacoste Tommy Hilfiger
Karen Walker Rag & Bone
YOUNG CONTEMPORARY SPORTY OUTERWEAR
For the youth market, outerwear essentials included puffy
coats, bomber-hybrids, parkas, and varsity-inspired jackets.
The sporty feel was captured in fabrics such as shearling and
leather, quilted nylon, and wool. From ski resorts to baseball
fields, designers such as DKNY and Tommy Hilfiger dove deep
into athletics for creative insight.
Alexander Wang
DKNY Tommy Hilfiger
T by Alexander Wang
TEEN A STATEMENT DRESS
Stand out of the crowd with a statement dress, like the
heavily embellished one by Cynthia Rowley, or, for the more
daring customer, go for the gothic look with VFILES’ loud, red
design. For a more classic feel with a retro flourish, opt for
Desigual’s whimsical dress.
Cynthia Rowley
Desigual
Jonathan Cohen
VFILES
TEEN SHIMMER & SHINE
Metallics were a big hit this season, and so were other
shimmery details, such as sequins and glitter finishes. Seen in
a variety of product categories – from outerwear to skirts – teens have plenty of options to play with. Work some
iridescence into your outfit with Rebecca Taylor’s easy
sweater, or go for a whole-body look with Phillip Lim’s long,
oversized bomber-hyrbid.
Creatures of the Wind Rebecca Taylor
Diesel Black Gold 3.1 Phillip Lim
TEEN A CROPPED TOP
Show off your young body with a cropped top, such as the
graphic-heavy one by VFILES, or Creatures of the Wind’s
long-sleeve take in deep, rich emerald. Perfect with a
matching skirt – try Katie Gallagher’s velvety design, and its oxblood hue will give you a touch of dark, sophisticated
glamor.
Katie Gallagher Creatures of the Wind
Rebecca Taylor VFILES
TWEEN A STATEMENT MINI
The miniskirt was definitely an important juniors-oriented
product category. From Desigual’s playfully patterned
design, to Tanya Taylor’s shiny take, a statement mini is a wardrobe essential for tweens this season. Opening
Ceremony experimented with quilting, while Diesel Black
Gold added some embellishments to inject their mini with
some unique texture and shine.
Tanya Taylor
Opening Ceremony Desigual
Diesel Black Gold
TWEEN A ROLLNECK SWEATER
A rollneck sweater will keep you both stylish and warm this
season. Try Marissa Webb’s design, in one of this season’s key
colors, dusty pink, or keep it simple in Karen Walker’s soft
white. If you prefer the raw, distressed look, try Nanette
Lepore’s carefully crocheted version.
Marissa Webb
Karen Walker
Tommy Hilfiger
Nanette Lepore
TWEEN A FUN, GRAPHIC TOP
Whimsical prints and patterns give a youthful flare to any top.
Red Valentino took its inspiration from beloved Disney
characters; Betsey Johnson kept things dramatic with bold, leopard prints; and Cynthia Rowley paired candy-esque
colors with eclectic beading. And like many other designers,
Fashion East took inspiration from the animal world, and the
adorable results would be loved by any tween.
Cynthia Rowley
Betsey Johnson Fashion East
RED Valentino
ACCESSORIES
ELBOW-HIGH GLOVES The elbow-high glove was a key accessories piece this
season. Try Altuzarra’s classic take, in soft leather, or go for Marc Jacobs’ knitted version for some added warmth.
SHADES Sunglasses of a variety of shapes were seen on New York’s catwalks. From circular to decorated frames, to aviators and Wayfarer styles, this optical piece is a must-have this season.
SCARF Keep your neck warm with a scarf this season. Continuing along
his collection’s overall BMX-feel, Marc Jacobs styled the accessory in an urban, sporty way. Meanwhile, Michael Kors and Thakoon took things in a more feminine direction, whether it was
a scarf made from knitwear, silk, or fur.
Marc Jacobs Altuzarra
Carolina Herrara Jeremy Scott
Michael Kors Marc by Marc Jacobs
3.1 Phillip Lim
Thakoon
FOOTWEAR
A SLOUCHY, OVERSIZED BOOT The relaxed feel of the loose, fluid shafts of these slouchy
boots are perfect compliments to the voluminous outerwear seen in various designers’ collections. Derek Lam’s ultra-soft
designs, for instance, make leather look absolutely liquidous.
FUR DETAIL Continuing along the fur trend, add a furry shoe to your collection. From the shearling details of Rag & Bone’s mules, or the fuzzy touches on the heels of Nina Ricci’s delicate pumps, fur was seen this season on apparel and footwear alike.
AN ANKLE-STRAP PUMP Give your feet some glamor with a pair of pumps featuring a thin, barely-there ankle strap. Jason Wu’s metallic approach
adds a touch of shimmer, while Nina Ricci’s designs complete her collection’s overall boudoir inspiration.
Derek Lam Rag & Bone
Nina Ricci Rag & Bone
Jason Wu Nina Ricci