Variedades de couvesSeguem-se algumas variedades de couve mais comuns.  1   0 Google + 1   1 StumbleUpon 0

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Couve para chucrute: é branca e tem uma grande coração (5 a 7 kg). Couve-branca: tem folhas lisas verdes-pálidas e um coração muito compacto. Este legume entra na composição de numerosos pratos (sopas, saladas, recheios, guisados) e as suas folhas podem servir de papillotes. Couve-coração: muito compacta, tem forma cónica e folhs verde-claras. A sua época é na primavera. Couve-lombarda: tem folhas verdes, mais ou menos claras, pouco duras e enrugadas. Tem sabor mais suave que o da couve-branca, que pode substituir em muitas receitas. Costuma ser recheada. Couve-roxa: tem folhas lisas e costuma ser combinada (sobretudo na Europa Central) com fruta e outros ingredientes adocicados, como a beterraba (borscht) ou a maçã. Também se come crua e ralada. Para que não escureça, é costume regá-la com vinagre a ferver. Couves-chinesas: aclimatadas na Europa desde o começo do século XIX, têm sabor mais suave do que as europeias. Costumam ser usadas cruas em saladas (com camarão e sementes de sésamo), cozidas com arroz e grão-de-bico e salteadas com cebolas e maçã.

A pe-tsai tem folhas tenras verde-pálidas e talos brancos compridos, assemelhando-se a uma alface-romana. A pak choi é uma variedade que começa a vulgarizar-se nos supermercados das grandes cidades. Tem folhas reunidas em roseta com nervuras brancas, largas, carnudas e achatadas; corte-lhes o talo principal e use-as inteiras.- See more at: http://www.seleccoes.pt/Variedades-de-couves#sthash.Rja2mVT2.dpuf

Muito além da feijoada

A couve de folha ou couve comum é muito rica em nutrientes, especialmente cálcio, ferro, vitaminas A,C,

K e B5. É escassa em calorias, mas satisfaz muito bem a sensação de apetite, portanto, pode ser

aproveitada em regimes para obesos.

É uma hortaliça originada da costa do Mediterrâneo e pertence à família das Brássicas, assim como o

repolho, o brócolis, a couve-flor e o rabanete.

COMO COMPRAR

A couve é colhida durante todo o ano, mas como é favorecida por clima ameno os menores preços

ocorrem de junho a outubro.

No Brasil, somente são plantadas couves de folhas lisas, sendo as do grupo manteiga as mais comuns.

Essas possuem folhas verde-claro, tenras, lisas ou pouco onduladas, com peciolo e nervura verde-clara.

As folhas devem estar com aspecto de produto fresco, ou seja, sem manchas escuras ou amarelas, sem

sinais de murcha e com os talos firmes.

As folhas de couve são comercializadas na forma de maço. Deve-se escolher o maço com cuidado, pelo

seu aspecto, evitando quebrá-lo ou machucá-lo, para não danificar aqueles que serão comprados por

outros consumidores.

A couve pode ser comercializada na forma minimamente processada, ou seja, já picada e embalada. É

fundamental que esse produto esteja exposto em gôndolas refrigeradas para garantir a sua adequada

conservação. Evite comprar este produto quando as folhas estiverem murchas e com pontos escuros,

principalmente nas bordas, e cheiro alterado.

COMO CONSERVAR

A couve é uma hortaliça que se conserva por pouco tempo, murchando e amarelecendo rapidamente.

Em condição ambiente, deve ser mantida com os talos dentro de uma vasilha com água ou dentro de

saco de plástico aberto, em local bem fresco, por até um dia. Quando conservada em geladeira, inteira ou

picada, deve ser mantida em saco de plástico fechado ou em vasilha de plástico tampada, conservando-

se por até uma semana, quando inteira ou por três dias, quando picada.

A couve pode ser congelada. Para tanto, deve ser picada fina e colocada em saco de plástico do qual

deve se retirar a maior quantidade possível de ar.

COMO CONSUMIR

A couve pode ser consumida crua, na elaboração de saladas e sucos, refogada ou como ingrediente de

sopas, farofas e cozidos.

Lave as folhas uma por uma em água corrente. Se for consumir as folhas cruas é necessário deixá-las de

molho em solução de água sanitária por 30 minutos na proporção de 1 colher de sopa de água sanitária

para 1 litro de água filtrada. Em seguida, enxágüe-as com água filtrada. A solução de água sanitária não

deverá ser reutilizada. A água sanitária ou o vinagre não retiram resíduos de agrotóxicos, mas são

importantes para eliminar microorganismos que possam causar doenças.

A couve pode ser picada fina ou rasgada na preparação de cozidos. Deve-se cozinhá-la

preferencialmente no vapor, utilizando-se uma panela própria ou ainda uma peneira sobre a panela com

água fervente, colocando-se uma tampa sobre a peneira para acelerar e uniformizar o cozimento.

Tanto ao refogar como ao cozinhar a couve, deve-se evitar deixá-la muito tempo no fogo, pois fica escura

e com o sabor ruim.

Quando congelada, a couve não se presta para consumo na forma crua, devendo ser usada somente em

pratos cozidos. O descongelamento é feito ao fogo, durante o processo de preparo.

DICAS

Experimente comer a couve refogada como recheio de sanduíche, com pão tipo francês.

Prefira o consumo da couve crua, pois o cozimento resulta em perda de parte das vitaminas

A couve para congelamento deve ser picada e não rasgada.

BENEFÍCIOS E PROPRIEDADES DA COUVE.

Brassica oleracea

Descrição : Da família das Brassicaceae, também conhecida como cove, kale, col, chou, cavolo, garten-kohl. Plantas bienal, de 40 cm a 1,20 metros de altura, com caule ereto, cilíndroco, robusto e carnoso. As folhas são pecioladas, espessas eum pouco carnosas. As flores são grandes, de cor branca ou amarelada, dispostas em raminhos. Crescem em diferentes climas, mas vivem melhor em temperaturas amenas. Suportam geadas e temperaturas abaixo de 10 graus centígrados. Apreciam solos argilosos. Seu cultivo deve ser feito antre os meses de março e setembro, em fileiras bem espaçadas, por estacas de ramos ou pelos brotos que nascem nas laterais da planta-mãe. A colheita, geralmente, deve ocorrer 90 dias após o palntio. Por seleção agronômica, existem variedades de couve que diferem entre si, no porte, no colorido das folhas, nas inflorescências e na rais. A variedade de couve repolhuda ou repolho, tem as folhas sobrepostas, com forma arredondada e se desenvolvem rente ao solo; a couve-crespa apresenta as folhas compridas, enrrugadas e suculentas; a couve tronchuda possui as folhas maiores que a da couve-repolhuda, mas com o desenvolvimento semelhante; a couve rábano possui o caule muito carnoso e comestível; a couve-flor tem inflorescências comestíveis e a couve de bruxelas tem o caule bem comprido, folhas com pecíolos na base, dos quais nascem pequenos brotos redondos e com desenvolvimento semelhante à da variedade repolho. A colheita de cada variedade tem métodos apropriados.

São conhecidos, pelo menos, cinco grupos diferentes dessa planta:

1) Couves "sem cabeça" ou que fecham pouco; caules não-espessos, produzindo folhas durante o período vegetativo;

2) Repolhos: caules curtos terminando-numa reunião de folhas ("cabeça") muito encostadas-umas às outras;

3) Couve-de-bruxellas: caule ramificado, brotos laterais curtos;

4) Couve-nabo e C. ruíabaga; caules hipertrofiados, in-tumescimento subterrâneo ou à flor da terra e C. rábano, intumescimento aéreo;

5) Couve-brócolos e C-flor: inflorescências carnosas e comestíveis. Dos quatro últimos grupos vamos falar de conformidade com a ordem da seriação por nomes vulgares, sendo que o terceiro e quarto grupos pertencem a espécies visinhas, porém distintas; quanto às do primeiro grupo, que se acham cultivadas no Brasil, muitas introduzidas e até profusamente distribuídas gratuitamente pelo Governo de São Paulo, iremos tratar, embora superficialmente. A maior parte delas é usada na alimentação humana em grande escala, constituindo mesmo um elemento importantíssimo e totalmente indispensável a todos os povos civilizados, pois que,

da abundância ou ausência de legumes verdes nos mercados, pode-se ajuizar, sem erro, do grau de adiantamento da respectiva população. A couve, embora não muito nutritiva é, no entanto, muito saudável. A acusação que se faz para o repolho não é verdadeiro, quando taxa-se-o de indigesto, pois os alemães o consomem em enormes proporções com o seu famoso "chucrute", sem que se tenha confirmado a acusação que lhe fazem. Todas as couves são antiscorbúticas e no passado constituíram a base de toda medicação, pois que são eficazes contra a prisão de ventre, a fraqueza da vista, os tremores dos membros e o ataque de gota. Já as sementes acalmam as cólicas em geral. Nas suas folhas a indústria apícola encontra um valioso auxiliar.

As principais variedades cultivadas entre nós e que pertencem ao primeiro grupo, o qual compreende a variedade Acephala, DC., cujas variedades hortícolas não formam "cabeça" e de que é tipo a couve-galega, e a variedade sabauda L., de variedades hortícolas com folhas crespas, enrugadas e bolhosas, de que é tipo a couve-de-saboya ou de Milão, algumas não formando cabeça e outras formando-a, porém frouxa:

1) — Couve-cavaleira arbórea ou cove-de-vaca; planta vigorosa e alta, até 2m de altura, com folhas lisas, grandes e ligeiramente enrugadas. Dá ótima forragem para porcos, galinhas, carneiros, coelhos, etc. Na ilha de Jérsey seus caules são aproveitados para bengalas que são objeto de comércio e uma das curiosidades que todos os excursionistas adquirem como lembrança da visita ao local.

2) — Couve cavaleira-vermelha porte menor que a precedente, porém ainda mais rústica, pecíolos e nervuras das folhas avermelhados. Igualmente forra ém em média 8,9% de matéria seca, 1,9% de proteína bruta digestível e 1,3% de proteína real digestível, sendo de 15,96 o valor líquido da energia em grandes calorias.

3) — Couve-celga verde-amarelada de Dreiembrunnen: planta sem "cabeça", verdura excelente para a mesa.

4) — Couve de Ia Sarthe: forrageira e muito produtiva, em França entra também na alimentação humana, pelo menos na estação primaveril.

5) — Couve de Milão "Favorita de Grrot": folhas frizadas, variedade precoce.

6) — Couve-de-milão "Victoria": folhas numerosas e tão delicadamente enrugadas que é inconfundível mesmo com as demais variedades de folhas iguais, folhas tenras, macias e saborosas, forma "cabeça" grande, verde-amarelada.

7) — Couve-de-mosbach: folhas verde-claro, quase pálido, numerosas, frisadas, as superiores recurvadas para trás, nervuras brancas, fortes, caule de 60-70cm. Boa como legume, é tambem ornamental.

8) — Couve-de-sabóia "das Virtudes" ou couve-de-milão "das Virtudes": folhas exteriores numerosas, grandes, rugosas, abertas, verde-escuro, glaucas, folhas interiores formando "cabeça" achatada, às vezes lavada de cor de vinho.

9) — Couve-de-sabóia "precoce de Aubervilliers" ou couve-de-milão "grossa das Virtudes": variedade obtida da anterior e que dela se distingue principalmente por ter o caule mais curto, a cor mais loura e menos glauca, as folhas mais finamente enrugadas e a "cabeça" mais achatada.

10) — Couve-de-Sabóia dourada ou couve-de-milão dourada: folhas interiores grandes, verdes, muito mais enrugadas e quase todas inclinadas para trás, de cor loura, quase amarela, "cabeça" comprida, pouco fechada.

11) — Couve de Sabóia verde ou couve-lombarda ou couve-de-milão ordinária: folhas exteriores grandes, verde-glauco, enrugadas, as interiores formam uma cabeça" regular, pouco fechada.

12) — Couve-aglega ou couve-mineira, também chamada de todo ano. Planta de grande e rápido desenvolvimento, atingindo mais de 4m de altura se lhe forem cortando as folhas novas, boas para a mesa; quando velhas servem para forragem.

13) — Couve-lombarda, de pé alto, folhas bolhosas e enrugadas fechando em "cabeça" antes da inflorescência. Deve pertencer à série das couves-de-milão ou de Sabóia.

14) — Couve-manteiga: folhas verde-amareladas, não muito grandes, tenras, fortemente intumescidas e enrugadas, caule alto. Há uma espécie denominada "especial" ou "lisa", bem verde, ainda mais aconselhada para a mesa e que é uma das mais cultivadas.

15) — Couve Marcellin ou couve-de-milão anã: folhas grandes, verde-escuro, finamente enrugadas, estendendo-se em roseta para todos os lados antes de formar a "cabeça", época em que deve ser colhida. Magnífica pava a mesa.

16) — Couve-meduleira-branca e couve-meduleira-roxa: folhas grandes e poucas, caule intumescido ou ventrudo, comestível como legume enquanto jovem e o seu diâmetro não excede de 7cm. É boa forragem, muito digestível e apreciada pelos animais.

17) — Couve-de-mil-cabeças ou couve-pólo: folhas grandes, oblongas, cretas, numerosas, boa forragem, especial para pássaros.

18) — Couve-murciana ou couve-de-nápoles: folhas grandes e espessas, quase arredondadas, verde-escuro na página superior e acizentadas na inferior, forma "cabeça" porém muito frouxa.

19) —Couve-nabiça: folhas compridas, profundamente lobadaè na base, pecíolos bancacentos. Muito boa para a mesa.

20) — Couve-penca ou couve-de-espanha, também chamada couve-madeira: folhas próximas, talos muito brancos e carnosos, forma "cabeça" frouxa e é muito boa para a mesa.

21) — Couve-ramosa-do-potou: folhas numeorsas e grandes, empregadas na França para fazer um tipo de caldo verde. Cultivada em São Paulo como forragem. Sua produção neste Estado é de 70 a 75.000 quilos por hectare.

22) — Tronchuda-portuguesa ou couve-penca-de-chaves, também chamada Troncha: folhas próximas, fortemente nervadas e com as margens onduladas, forma "cabeça" pequena e pouco compacta.

23) — Villariça: folhas largas, nervuras muito grossas, brancas e tenras. — Estão, pois, reunidas aqui todas ou quase todas as variedades do primeiro grupo que se acham em plena cultura no Brasil. A couve pode ser atacada por várias espécies de fungos e insetos, como "percevejo-dos-feijões", "hérnia-da-couve", e seus nomes populares. Todas as demais couves estão sujeitas àqueles elementos destruidores. Como nos demais países do globo, no Brasil, o consumo da couve em todas as suas variedades é muito intenso. Na realidade, é prato quase obrigatório em todos os recantos do nosso país.

Parte utilizada: Folhas, talos, sementes.

Origem : Europa, sendo bem cultivada em todo o Brasil.

Modo de conservar : Deve-se usar as folhas ainda frescas e muito bem lavadas.

Princípios Ativos:Cálcio, cobre, ferro, flúor, fósforo, iodo, minerais, potássio, vitaminas A, B, C.

Propriedades medicinais: Anti-helmíntica, anti-reumática, aperiente, béquica, cicatrizante, condicionante, estimulante, expectorante, fortalecedora.

Indicações: Acalmar cólicas (sementes), artrite, bronquite (ajudar), asma, catarros, cicatrizar úlcera gástrica e duodenal, desinfetar o intestino, diminuir desejo por bebidas alcoólicas, doenças inflamatórias da pele, dores (ciáticas, reumáticas, nevrálgicas, de gota), estimular o apetite, febre, fortificar crianças em fase de crescimento, gota, prisão de ventre, reumatismo, seborréia do couro cabeludo, tosse, vermes.

Modo de usar:

- Preferencialmente crua em salada ou suco (pois é rica em vitamina C (mais que a laranja), que se perde com o calor), frita ou refogada com alho e óleo, sopas, em farofas, recheios de omeletes, lasanhas e panquecas, "charutinhos", recheados com arroz cozido, legumes, frango desfiado ou carne moída, talos no preparo de sopas, junto com feijão ou caldos; caldo verde; sucos refrescantes, com suco de limão e açúcar;

- Sumo do caule: doenças do estômago;

- Suco em jejum: úlceras no estômago, doenças no ouvido, anemia;

- Sumo das folhas, tomar uma xícaras quatro vezes ao dia: abrandar hemorróidas, úlcera do estômago e do duodeno, tosse, asma, catarros, doenças inflamatórias da pele, diminuir desejo de bebidas alcólatras;

- Suco e as sementes: vermes; - ferver uma folha de couve em 150 ml de leite de vaca leite, esperar esfriar e adoçar com mel e tomar: tosse, rouquidão e bronquite; - uma folha de couve macerada com uma colher das de café de ácido bórico, usar como compressa para: aliviar ulcerações na pele;

- Uma folha amassada aplicar sobre ferida: cicatrizante;

- Talos, colocados em cachaça. Tomar uma colher das de chá por dia: ajuda a corrigir os alcoólatras; áticas, reumáticas, nevrálgicas e da gota.

** Sugestões do Sílvio Paniza **

Afecções pulmonares, tosse, asma e bronquite; expectorante : retire a nervura mediana de 1 folhas e fatie. Em 1 xícara de chá, coloque 1 colher de sopa de folha fatiada e adicione leite fervente. Deixe esfriar e coe. Tome 1 xícara de chá de 1 a 3 vezes ao dia, podendo ser adoçado com mel.

Afecções da pele, dermatoses, pruridos e eczemas : em um pilão, coloque 3 colheres de sopa de folhas fatiadas, 1 colher de sopa de suco de limão e 1 xícara de chá de água. Amasse bem e coe em um pano, espremendo o resíduo. Faça

compressas nas partes afetadas, com alodão embebido nesse líquido, 2 ou 3 vezes ao dia.

Úlceras estomacais e duodenais; acidez estomacal; intestino preguiçoso: lave bem 1 punhado de folhas, retire a nervura mediana e fatie. Coma antes das refeições, regadas com azeite, durante 3 ou 4 semanas.

Dor muscular e nas juntas; reumatísmo; úceras varicosas; feridas inflamadas; gota; artrite; dor ciática; bevralgias em geral; dor de cabeça ; em uma panela com água em fervura, coloque uma peneira, de modo que a mesma não toque n água e sobre a peneira uma pano e 1 punhado de folhas fatiadas. Manter em fervura para adsorver os vapores quentes. Ainda morno, aplique o pano com as folhas nas partes afetadas e cubra com um outro pano. deixe agir por 2 horas ou durante a noite toda.

Alcoolismo crônico : retire os cabinhos de 5 folhas, fatie bem esses e coloque em 1 xícara de chá de álcool de cereais a 50%. DEixe em maceração por 5 dias e coe. Tome 1 colher de sobremessa, diluído em um pouco de água, 3 vezes ao dia.

Couve

ORIGEM

Oriunda das regiões do Mar Mediterrâneo, é cultivada no Brasil desde a época colonial.

TIPOS

Couve simples (Manteiga ou Mineira)

Couve–de-Bruxelas

Couve-Flor

COUVE SIMPLES (Manteiga ou Mineira)

CARACTERÍSTICAS

É a mais conhecida e consumida, tem folhas grandes e lisas, recobertas por um tipo de serosidade, que

lhe dá brilho e resistência; a cor é do tipo verde-brilhante.

MODO DE COMPRAR

Idêntico à chicória e a todas as hortaliças folhosas.

MODO DE CONSERVAR

A couve pode ser conservada até por 1 semana, se as folhas forem guardadas inteiras (sem arrancar os

talos), acondicionadas na gaveta da geladeira, dentro de saco plástico. O ideal é consumir até, no

máximo, 3 dias após a compra. Se quiser conservá-la por período maior, é conveniente congelar.

MODO DE PREPARAR

Todas as hortaliças folhosas devem ser lavadas abundantemente em água corrente, a fim de remover

pequenos insetos e impurezas diversas.

Outras dicas

1 - após essa lavagem, mergulhar as peças numa vasilha, contendo uma mistura de água com limão

2 - na secção de verduras dos supermercados, há produtos que ajudam a promover essa limpeza.

MODO DE CONSUMIR

A couve pode compor pratos como: - cozidos e ensopados;- feijoada;- feijão tropeiro;- tutu à mineira;-

refogada; - saladas cruas, quando são bem melhor aproveitados os seus nutrientes.

OBSERVAÇÃO

É uma boa prática mastigar bastante todo e qualquer alimento antes de ingerir, para que não haja má

digestão e, no caso da couve, com muito mais razão, devido à sua consistência mais rija.

COMPOSIÇÃO

Em 100 gramas, encontramos:

Proteínas = 4 g

Cálcio = 31 mg (Atenção: Tanto quanto o leite de vaca)

Fósforo = 77 mg

Ferro = 1,1mg

Sódio = 9 mg

Potássio = 411 mg

Vitaminas: - A (Beta-caroteno)

Complexo B; - C; - K

Celulose

Fibras (mais nos talos)

Ácido Fólico

Bioflavonóides

OBSERVAÇÃO

Mesmo cozida pode causar flatulência (gases intestinais).

VALOR CALÓRICO

100 gramas de couve-manteiga crua apresentam 25 calorias e, quando refogada, 146 calorias

INDICAÇÕES TERAPÊUTICAS

Previne e combate distúrbios diversos:

Glândula tireóide

Fígado

Cálculos (pedras) da vesícula biliar e dos rins

Hemorróidas

Tem eficaz efeito para:

Rins

Coração

Olhos

É desintoxicante

O suco de couve é bastante eficaz no tratamento de úlcera do estômago e do duodeno. Segundo

pesquisadores americanos e suíços, o suco deve ser preparado coma couve crua, caso contrário, não

fará o efeito desejado.

Tomado várias vezes ao dia, em torno de 5 dias, as dores cessam e, após 2 semanas, a úlcera

desaparece.

COUVE DE BRUXELAS

ORIGEM

É originária da região mediterrânea Esta hortaliça foi submetida a um processo de pesquisa, em 1750, na

Bélgica, mais precisamente, na capital, Bruxelas, daí a sua denominação

CARACTERÍSTICAS

Tem a forma de repolho, motivo pelo qual também é chamada de “repolinho” ou “repolho de Bruxelas”; -

Cresce em toda a extensão do talo, de tal maneira que este fica totalmente coberto pelos repolinhos.

MODO DE COMPRAR

É vendida por quilo e convém escolher as mais redondas e pesadas; quanto mais firme e verde, mais

fresca ela estará. Quantidade: Calcular 1 quilo para 6 pessoas.

MODO DE CONSERVAR

Esta hortaliça é bem mais resistente do que a couve comum, podendo, portanto, ser conservada por mais

tempo, cerca de uma semana. Uma boa dica: retirar as folhas manchadas ou com imperfeições e, em

seguida, colocar num saco plástico e guardar na gaveta inferior da geladeira.

MODO DE CONSUMIR

Na cozinha, a couve-de-bruxelas é usada de várias maneiras: - em sopas; - ensopada; - cozida; -

refogada; - crua, em saladas; - para aproveitarmos melhor seus nutrientes, devemos cozinhar no vapor ou

em fogo baixo com pouca água.

COMPOSIÇÃO

É uma hortaliça rica em:,

Celulose (fibras)

Sais Minerais:

Fósforo

Ferro

Enxofre

Potássio

Vitaminas

Vitaminas A, C

VALOR CALÓRICO

100 gramas de couve-de-bruxelas crua fornecem 45 calorias.

Copenhagen Market Cabbage Seeds

Copenhagen Market (65-75days)  

Copenhagen Market was produced by Hjalmar Hartman & Co., of Copenhagen, Denmark and introduced in the U.S. in 1909.  A chance seedling believed to be from the old German variety Ditmarscher.  Burpee released it publicly in 1911. 

An early ball-head type heirloom cabbage, Copenhagen Market is an excellent cabbage  that has been an favorite of gardeners, market growers and cabbage fans all over the world.  Copenhagen Market has literally set the standard as the model for all commercial cabbage varieties developed since.

Copenhagen Market produces a heavy yield of 4 to 5 pound, 7 inch round heads of cabbage.  Height of the plant is about 12-14" and width is about 25". 

This tight, well formed head allows the gardener to get far more cabbages in a small space compared to other varieties. 

An excellent cabbage for fresh or cooked applications. 

Many use Copenhagen Market for a tasty sauerkraut. 

This is a short season variety especially valuable for early planting, but is not recommended for over-wintering in the Northern states.  Normally does fine over-wintered in the Southern States where the winters are not as harsh.

1937     McFayden Seed Co. says about Copenhagen Market Cabbage..."Early, Very solid, and an Immense Yielder. For home growing, for market and for making into kraut. The heads are perfectly round, 6 to 7 inches in diameter, and weigh 3 1/2 to 4 lbs each. In favorable seasons may reach 5 to 7 lbs. Matures about a week after Golden Acre."

1936     James Seed Co. says about Copenhagen Market Cabbage...."The earliest of the ball-shaped cabbages, under favorable conditions maturing a crop in six weeks from transplanting. The plants are saucer shaped, forming heads averaging 8 lbs. a few inches from the ground, with few outside leaves, thus allowing of close planting.  Copenhagen Market Cabbage grows to its best if the seed is planted in early June and the plants set out in July. Fine hard heads will be formed before frost, and these late heads will keep well if stored in a cool but frost-proof place."

   Copenhagen Market Cabbage is a fantastic keeper with tight heads that rarely

split.

Organic Copenhagen Green Cabbage - HEIRLOOM - A great open-pollinated variety for home gardeners and direct markets. Round solid heads are somewhat variable in size ranging from 3-4 lbs and 6-8” in diameter with uniform maturity. Compact plants have short stems and sit close to the ground. Heads hold well in the field without splitting. Great for slow cooking, slaws and sauerkraut. (Brassica oleracea)

You can grow cabbages in both hot and cool climates if you adjust your planting schedule to the prevailing conditions.

Row covers are an effective barrier against cabbage butterflies and related pests.

These cabbages were grown in California's Central Valley. Seeds were planted in August through early September and harvested from November through early February.

You can grow cabbages in both hot and cool climates if you adjust your planting schedule to the prevailing conditions.Photo: Boyd Hagen

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by Suzanne AshworthOctober 1997from issue #11

When I laud the merits of cabbage, I try to restrain myself, but it’s a tough task. Besides containing an astonishingly high amount of vitamin C, cabbage is also the most productive brassica per square foot, and its flavor can be deliciously sweet, especially if it weathers a few frosts. But because chilly weather sweetens cabbage, many warm-climate gardeners don’t bother with it.

I do. I grow cabbage in hot, dry, Sacramento, California. Although I make a special effort, I wouldn’t call it a bother. I use sensible growing techniques for hot climates, most of which work in other zones.

Last summer, I went on a quest to find cabbages that would grow well in my climate and work well in my kitchen. I grew five types—a flat (or drum) head, a conical head, a red, a savoy, and a light-green round head—each intended for a different culinary use.

Of kings and coles

To make cabbage recipes worthy of the royal table, you need the right cabbage for the right purpose. Red cabbage’s vibrant color and beauty grace any garden. And in the kitchen, our all-time favorite cabbage recipe is red cabbage braised in wine with sausage. Unfortunately, red cabbage has always been difficult to grow well here, so I chose four to see which would produce the best head: ‘Red Rodan’, ‘Scarlet O’Hara’, ‘Bountiful Garden Red’, and ‘Rougette’.

Coleslaw needs a tight-headed cabbage that cracks when cut. That way you know it will stay crunchy. ‘Early Jersey Wakefield’ works in this category and is usually the first cabbage of the season to be harvested. In search of the perfect coleslaw cabbage for hot climates, I chose ‘Copenhagen Market’, a round-head, and ‘Rio Verde’, a crunchy cabbage with a conical shape.

Savoys are a must for stuffed cabbage. Their large, loosely packed leaves make them easy to prepare as whole, stuffed heads, or with individual leaves removed and filled. ‘Red Verone’ savoy is my current favorite, but to extend the season I decided to try ‘January King’ and ‘Chieftain’ savoy.

Sauerkraut requires a big, firm head without too much color. Last year’s sauerkraut was too green, probably because there were too many outer leaves on small heads. I decided to try ‘Early Dutch Flat Head’, ‘Copenhagen Market’, and ‘Titanic’, all reputed to be excellent for sauerkraut.

Shifting the season to beat the heatWinter here consists of some fog and rain with temperatures ranging from 30° to 60°F. Those frosty days that sweeten cabbage and Brussels sprouts are few if any. Summer afternoons are frequently in the 100s. Spring-sown brassicas never produce anything worth eating—it’s just too hot. The time for me to plant is August through early September, for cabbage that’s ready to eat from November through early February.

Cool-climate gardeners should time their planting so the cabbage matures during those weeks with cool temperatures. To estimate this date, you need to know whether the cabbage you are growing is an early-, mid-, or late-season variety. Early-season varieties mature in 60 to 80 days, mid-season types in 80 to 90 days, late-season in 90 to 110 days.

When I plant in August, transplants are not an option. The greenhouse is too hot, and plants don’t germinate well. Direct seeding works much better but requires some extra labor. With good bed preparation, mulch, and irrigation, cabbage can be coaxed up even in the August heat.

I prepare my beds in July, digging in compost made from ground-up tree clippings and rabbit manure. Because cabbage is a heavy feeder, I spread extra rabbit manure over the planting beds, along with a 2-in. layer of mulch.

After mulching the bed, water it well to keep the soil cool and speed germination. Pull away the 2-in. layer of mulch in rows about 20 in. apart. Dig 2-in.-deep holes in the soil, spaced at 12-in. intervals. Gently firm the soil to ensure the seeds won’t sink farther. Place five seeds at the bottom of each hole

Learn more...

How to   use cabbage in your cooking

The fall vegetable garden

A 2-in. layer of rice hulls provides protection from drying or burning out.

and cover them with a tablespoon of damp soil and 1⁄4 cup of rice hulls or vermiculite, which don’t compact, making it easy for the seedlings to push through. Germination takes three to five days.

Each plant needs plenty of growing room to reach its potential. So, as soon as the seedlings germinate, snip off all but two plants. Don’t pull out the excess seedlings because you might damage those remaining. Keep the soil damp but not wet. When the seedlings have two true leaves snip off the smaller plant. Do not transplant. You want all of the benefits of direct seeding so don’t disturb your plants.

During the next two months, your cabbages will grow big loose leaves and then start to form heads. Weeds are not much of a problem with adequate mulch. Constant attention to water keeps the plants growing quickly. If you do not have a rich composted manure, give the cabbages weekly feedings of half-strength fish emulsion.

Pesky cabbage butterfliesBy far the biggest pest for my brassicas is the white cabbage butterfly and her cousins. In climates where heat is not a problem, the entire bed can be covered after seeding with spun polyester row covers. This prevents butterflies from laying eggs on the new plants. Some gardeners also try using butterfly nets to catch the butterflies for squishing.

Row covers keep cabbage moths from laying eggs on plants.

Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) is an effective organic control. It will kill many different kinds of caterpillars, so use it selectively or you may also kill the butterflies you enjoy. Bt is most effective sprayed in the early morning or evening. Be sure to spray the entire plant, including the undersides of the leaves. Monitor the damage and keep a good perspective on the problem. Plants with six or more leaves can easily deal with 15% of the leaf surface being eaten. Excessive damage requires repeat spraying. Rain or overhead watering washes off the Bt, making additional spraying necessary.

As soon as the plants have 6-in. heads, pull off one of the leaves near the forming head and taste. If the leaf is beginning to taste sweet and crunchy, the cabbage will be ready soon. If not, be patient and wait for the taste to mellow. The plants will store sugar in response to cooler weather.

When the cabbages are ready to harvest, take a sharp knife and cut the head off the plant. I pull up the plants after the head is harvested, but you can leave them in the ground, and several golf-ball-size, loose-leaf heads will spring up just below the cut.

Pick a batch from the cabbage patch when heads firm up and sweeten. From left to right: 'Scarlet O'Hara', 'Early dutch Flat Head', 'Titanic', 'Chieftain' savoy, 'Red Verone' savoy.

Picking the winnersIn late January I picked the winners of the year’s trials. It was real easy in the red cabbage category. ‘Bountiful Garden’ and ‘Rougette’ failed to produce any solid heads. ‘Red Rodan’ produced a very small but tight 4-in. head. ‘Scarlet O’Hara’ was wider with a 6-in. tight head and was the most colorful of the reds; it gets my vote.

‘Early Jersey Wakefield’ was the earliest coleslaw cabbage and made tasty but strongly flavored slaw. In a cooler climate, the strong taste would probably be mitigated. ‘Copenhagen’ was a disappointment. The heads were tight and crunchy, and the flavor was mild, but mold spots appeared throughout the leaves. ‘Rio Verde’ had a mild flavor but didn’t form tight heads. ‘Titanic’ was three weeks later than ‘Early Jersey Wakefield’ and had tight heads and a nice mild flavor.

‘Red Verone’ still takes top billing in the savoy category. The heads are nicely formed, the color outstanding, and the flavor mild. ‘January King’ savoy had small, tight heads. ‘Chieftain’ savoy had very open heads that were not well formed, but the leaves had a lovely texture that looked great in the garden.

‘Early Dutch Flat Head’ produced nice heads for sauerkraut. ‘Titanic’ also did well. The heads were tight, heavy, and shredded easily. The sauerkraut made from both varieties fermented nicely.

Next year’s selections? ‘Early Jersey Wakefield’ for early coleslaw; ‘Titanic’ to extend the season; ‘Scarlet O’Hara’ for the best of the reds; ‘Red Verone’ savoy for stuffing; and either or both 'Early Dutch Flat Head' or 'Titanic' for sauerkraut.

Evaluation of Cabbage Varieties for Resistance to the Cabbage Aphid

'Red Verone' savoy is a regal beauty with a mild flavor.

D.C. Munthali

Resistance of nine cabbage (Brassica oleracea van capitata) cultivars, Big cropper, Cape Spitz,

Copenhagen Market, Conquistador, Drumhead, Giant Drumhead, Glory of Enkhuizen,

Grandslam and Hercules to cabbage aphid (Brevicoryne brassicae) was studied in greenhouse

experiments conducted at the Botswana College of Agriculture, Gaborone, Botswana. Cabbage

aphids caused 85 % leaf damage on the most susceptible cultivar, Drumhead, and only 30.9 and

44.6 % on the more resistant cultivars, Grandslam and Copenhagen Market, respectively.

Drumhead had the lowest number of aphids per leaf, showing the antibiosis mechanism of

resistance to B. brassicae and yet it suffered the most severe damage. Although Copenhagen

Market was resistant to cabbage aphid damage, it had the greatest abundance of aphids per leaf,

showing that it used the tolerance resistance mechanism against cabbage aphids. Conquistador,

Glory of Enkhuizen, Grandslam and Hercules, which gave the lowest combined effect of

number of aphids multiplied by percentage damaged leaves per plant were the best varieties for

use by farmers. However, since they only achieved partial resistance to the cabbage aphid, their

use is recommended in combination with a low dose of insecticide.

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Title: Cabbages and Cauliflowers: How to Grow Them A Practical Treatise, Giving Full Details On Every Point, Including Keeping And Marketing The Crop

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* * * * *

Cabbages

and

Cauliflowers:

HOW TO GROW THEM.

A PRACTICAL TREATISE, GIVING FULL DETAILS ON EVERY POINT, INCLUDING KEEPING AND MARKETING THE CROP.

[Illustration: Cabbage Head]

BY

JAMES J. H. GREGORY,

ORIGINAL INTRODUCER OF THE MARBLEHEAD, DEEP HEAD, WARREN, ALL SEASONS, HARD HEADING, AND REYNOLDS CABBAGES.

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1889, by JAMES J. H. GREGORY, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C.

CONTENTS.

PAGE OBJECT OF TREATISE 1

THE ORIGIN OF CABBAGE 1

WHAT A CABBAGE IS 2

SELECTING THE SOIL 4

PREPARING THE SOIL 5

THE MANURE 6

HOW TO APPLY THE MANURE 8

MAKING THE HILLS AND PLANTING THE SEED 11

CARE OF THE YOUNG PLANTS 16

PROTECTING THE PLANTS FROM THEIR ENEMIES 18

THE GREEN WORM 22

CLUB, OR STUMP ROOT, OR MAGGOT 24

CARE OF THE GROWING CROP 29

MARKETING THE CROP 30

KEEPING CABBAGE THROUGH THE WINTER 32

HAVING CABBAGE MAKE HEADS IN WINTER 39

FOREIGN VARIETIES OF CABBAGE 43-45

AMERICAN VARIETIES 46-60

SAVOY VARIETIES 60-63

OTHER VARIETIES 63-67

CABBAGE GREENS 67

CABBAGE FOR STOCK 69

RAISING CABBAGE SEED 73

COOKING CABBAGE, SOUR-KROUT, ETC. 75

CABBAGE UNDER GLASS 76

COLD FRAME AND HOT-BED 78

CAULIFLOWER, BROCCOLI, BRUSSELS-SPROUTS, KALE AND SEA-KALE 81

CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS.

OBJECT OF THIS TREATISE.

As a general, yet very thorough, response to inquiries from many of mycustomers about cabbage raising, I have aimed in this treatise to tellthem all about the subject. The different inquiries made from time totime have given me a pretty clear idea of the many heads under whichinformation is wanted; and it has been my aim to give this with the samethoroughness of detail as in my little work on Squashes. I haveendeavored to talk in a very practical way, drawing from a largeobservation and experience, and receiving, in describing varieties, somevaluable information from McIntosh's work, "The Book of the Garden."

THE ORIGIN OF CABBAGE.

Botanists tell us that all of the Cabbage family, which includes notonly every variety of cabbage, Red, White, and Savoy, but all thecauliflower, broccoli, kale, and brussels sprouts, had their origin inthe wild cabbage of Europe (_Brassica oleracea_), a plant with green,wavy leaves, much resembling charlock, found growing wild at Dover inEngland, and other parts of Europe. This plant, says McIntosh, is mostlyconfined to the sea-shore, and grows only on chalky or calcareoussoils.

Thus through the wisdom of the Great Father of us all, who occasionallyin his great garden allows vegetables to sport into a higher form oflife, and grants to some of these sports sufficient strength ofindividuality to enable them to perpetuate themselves, and, at times, toblend their individuality with that of other sports, we have the heading

cabbage in its numerous varieties, the creamy cauliflower, the featherykale, the curled savoy. On my own grounds from a strain of seed that hadbeen grown isolated for years, there recently came a plant that in itsstructure closely resembled Brussels Sprouts, growing about two feet inheight, with a small head under each leaf. The cultivated cabbage wasfirst introduced into England by the Romans, and from there nearly allthe kinds cultivated in this country were originally brought. Thosewhich we consider as peculiarly American varieties, have only been madeso by years of careful improvement on the original imported sorts. Thecharacteristics of these varieties will be given farther on.

WHAT A CABBAGE IS.

If we cut vertically through the middle of the head, we shall find itmade up of successive layers of leaves, which grow smaller and smaller,almost _ad infinitum_. Now, if we take a fruit bud from an apple-treeand make a similar section of it, we shall find the same structure. Ifwe observe the development of the two, as spring advances, we shall findanother similarity (the looser the head the closer will be theresemblance),--the outer leaves of each will unwrap and unfold, and aflower stem will push out from each. Here we see that a cabbage is abud, a seed bud (as all fruit buds may be termed, the production ofseed being the primary object in nature, the fruit enclosing it playingbut a secondary part), the office of the leaves being to cover, protect,and afterwards nourish the young seed shoot. The outer leaves whichsurround the head appear to have the same office as the leaves whichsurround the growing fruit bud, and that office closes with the firstyear, as does that of the leaves surrounding fruit buds, when each dieand drop off. In my locality the public must have perceived more or lessclearly the analogy between the heads of cabbage and the buds of trees,for when they speak of small heads they frequently call them "buds."That the close wrapped leaves which make the cabbage head and surroundthe seed germ, situated just in the middle of the head at thetermination of the stump, are necessary for its protection and nutritionwhen young, is proved, I think, by the fact that those cabbages, theheads of which are much decayed, when set out for seed, no matter howsound the seed germ may be at the end of the stump, never make so largeor healthy a seed shoot as those do the heads of which are sound; as arule, after pushing a feeble growth, they die.

For this reason I believe that the office of the head is similar to andas necessary as that of the leaves which unwrap from around the blossombuds of our fruit trees. It is true that the parallel cannot be fully

maintained, as the leaves which make up the cabbage head do not to anequal degree unfold (particularly is this true of hard heads); yet theyexhibit a vitality of their own, which is seen in the deeper green colorthe outer leaves soon attain, and the change from tenderness totoughness in their structure: I think, therefore, that the degree offailure in the parallel may be measured by the difference between ahigher and a lower form of organic life.

Some advocate the economy of cutting off a large portion of the headswhen cabbages are set out for seed to use as food for stock. There iscertainly a great temptation, standing amid acres of large, solid, headsin the early spring months, when green food of all kinds is scarce, tocut and use such an immense amount of rich food, which, to theinexperienced eye, appears to be utterly wasted if left to decay, dry,and fall to the ground; but, for the reason given above, I have neverdone so. It is possible that large heads may bear trimming to a degreewithout injury to the seed crop; yet I should consider this anexperiment, and one to be tried with a good deal of caution.

SELECTING THE SOIL.

In some of the best cabbage-growing sections of the country, untilwithin a comparatively few years it was the very general belief thatcabbage would not do well on upland. Accordingly the cabbage patch wouldbe found on the lowest tillage land of the farm. No doubt, the lowestsoil being the richer from a gradual accumulation of the wash from theupland, when manure was but sparingly used, cabbage would thrive betterthere than elsewhere,--and not, as was generally held, because thatvegetable needed more moisture than any other crop. Cabbage can beraised with success on any good corn land, provided such land is wellmanured; and there is no more loss in seasons of drouth on such landthan there is in seasons of excessive moisture on the lower tillage landof the farm. I wish I could preach a very loud sermon to all my farmerfriends on the great value of liberal manuring to carry cropssuccessfully through the effects of a severe drouth. Crops on soilprecisely alike, with but a wall to separate them, will, in a very dryseason, present a striking difference,--the one being in fine vigor, andthe other "suffering from drouth," as the owner will tell you; but, inreality, from want of food.

The smaller varieties of cabbage will thrive well on either light orstrong soil, but the largest drumheads do best on strong soil. For the_Brassica_ family, including cabbages, cauliflowers, turnips, etc.,there is no soil so suitable as freshly turned sod, provided the surfaceis well fined by the harrow; it is well to have as stout a crop ofclover or grass, growing on this sod, when turned under, as possible,and I incline to the belief that it would be a judicious investment tostart a thick growth of these by the application of guano to the surface

sufficiently long before turning the sod to get an extra growth of theclover or grass. If the soil be very sandy in character, I would advisethat the variety planted be the Winnigstadt, which, in my experience, isunexcelled for making a hard head under almost any conditions, howeverunpropitious. Should the soil be naturally very wet it should beunderdrained, or stump foot will be very likely to appear, which isdeath to all success.

PREPARING THE SOIL.

Should the soil be a heavy clay, a deep fall ploughing is best, that thefrosts of winter may disintegrate it; and should the plan be to raise anearly crop, this end will be promoted by fall ploughing, on any soil, asthe land will thereby be made drier in early spring. In New England thesoil for cabbages should be ploughed as deep as the subsoil, and thelarger drumheads should be planted only on the deepest soil. If theseason should prove a favorable one, a good crop of cabbage may be grownon sod broken up immediately after a crop of hay has been taken from it,provided plenty of fine manure is harrowed in. One great risk here isfrom the dry weather that usually prevails at that season, preventingthe prompt germination of the seed, or rooting of the plants. It isprudent in such a case to have a good stock of plants, that such as diemay be promptly replaced. It is wise to plant the seed for these a weekearlier than the main crop, for when transplanted to fill the vacantplaces it will take about a week for them to get well rooted.

The manure may be spread on the surface of either sod or stubble landand ploughed under, or be spread on the surface after ploughing andthoroughly worked into the soil by the wheel harrow or cultivator. Onploughed sod I have found nothing so satisfactory as the class of wheelharrows, which not only cut the manure up fine and work it well under,but by the same operation cut and pulverize the turf until the sod maybe left not over an inch in thickness. To do the work thus thoroughlyrequires a yoke of oxen or a pair of stout horses. All large stones andlarge pieces of turf that are torn up and brought to the surface shouldbe carted off before making the hills.

THE MANURE.

Any manure but hog manure for cabbage,--barn manure, rotten kelp,

night-soil, guano, fertilizers, wood ashes, fish, salt, glue waste, henmanure, slaughter-house manure. I have used all of these, and foundthem all good when rightly applied. If pure hog manure is used it is aptto produce that corpulent enlargement of the roots known in differentlocalities as "stump foot," "underground head," "finger and thumb;" butI have found barn manure on which hogs have run, two hogs to eachanimal, excellent. The cabbage is the rankest of feeders, and to perfectthe larger sort a most liberal allowance of the richest composts isrequired. To grow the smaller varieties either barn-yard manure, guano,fertilizers, or wood ashes, if the soil be in good condition, willanswer; though the richer and more abundant the manure the larger arethe cabbages, and the earlier the crop will mature.

To perfect the large varieties of drumhead,--by which I mean to makethem grow to the greatest size possible,--I want a strong compost ofbarn-yard manure, with night-soil and muck or fish-waste, and, ifpossible, rotten kelp. A compost into which night-soil enters as acomponent is best made by first covering a plot of ground, of easyaccess, with soil or muck that has been exposed to a winter's frost, tothe depth of about eighteen inches, and raising around this a rim aboutthree feet in height, and thickness. Into this the night-soil is pouredfrom carts built for the purpose, until the receptacle is abouttwo-thirds full. Barn manure is now added, being dropped around andcovering the outer rim, and, if the supply is sufficient, on the top ofthe heap also, on which it can be carted after cold weather sets in.Early in spring, the entire mass should be pitched over, thoroughlybroken up with the bar and pick where frozen, and the frozen massesthrown on the surface. In pitching over the mass, work the rim intowards the middle of the heap. After the frozen lumps have thawed, givethe heap another pitching over, aiming to mix all the materialsthoroughly together, and make the entire mass as fine as possible. Acovering of sand, thrown over the heap, before the last pitching, willhelp fine it.

To produce a good crop of cabbages, with a compost of this quality, fromsix to twelve cords will be required to the acre. If the land is in goodheart, by previous high cultivation, or the soil is naturally verystrong, six cords will give a fair crop of the small varieties; while,with the same conditions, from nine to twelve cords to the acre will berequired to perfect the largest variety grown, the Marblehead MammothDrumhead.

Of the other kinds of manure named above, I will treat farther under thehead of:

HOW TO APPLY THE MANURE.

The manure is sometimes applied wholly in the hill, at other timespartly broadcast and partly in the hill. If the farmer desires to makethe utmost use of his manure for that season, it will be best to putmost of it into the hill, particularly if his supply runs rather short;but if he desires to leave his land in good condition for next year'scrop, he had better use part of it broadcast. My own practice is to useall my rich compost broadcast, and depend on guano, fertilizers, or henmanure in the hill. Let all guano, if at all lumpy, like the Peruvian,be sifted, and let all the hard lumps be reduced by pounding, until thelargest pieces shall not be larger than half a pea, before it isbrought upon the ground. My land being ready, the compost worked underand the rows marked out, I select three trusty hands who can be reliedupon to follow faithfully my directions in applying so dangerous manureas guano is in careless or ignorant hands; one takes a bucket of it,and, if for large cabbage, drops as much as he can readily close in hisshut hand, where each hill is to be; if for small sorts, then about halfthat quantity, spreading it over a circle about a foot in diameter; thesecond man follows with a pronged hoe, or better yet, a six-tined fork,with which he works the guano well into the soil, first turning it threeor four inches under the surface, and then stirring the soil _verythoroughly_ with the hoe or fork. Unless the guano (and this is alsotrue of most fertilizers) is faithfully mixed up with the soil, the seedwill not vegetate. Give the second man about an hour the start, and thenlet the third man follow with the seed. Of other fertilizers, I useabout half as much again as of guano to each hill, and of hen manure aheaping handful, after it has been finely broken up, and, if moist,slightly mixed with dry earth. When salt is used, it should not bedepended on exclusively, but be used in connection with other manures,at the rate of from ten to fifteen bushels to the acre, appliedbroadcast over the ground, or thoroughly mixed with the manure beforethat is applied; if dissolved in the manure, better yet. Salt itself isnot a manure. Its principal office is to change other materials intoplant food. Fish and glue waste are exceedingly powerful manures, veryrich in ammonia, and, if used the first season, they should be incompost. It is best to handle fish waste, such as heads, entrails,backbones, and liver waste, precisely like night soil. "Porgy cheese,"or "chum," the refuse, after pressing out the oil from menhaden andhalibut heads, and sometimes sold extensively for manure, is bestprepared for use by composting it with muck or loam, layer with layer,at the rate of a barrel to every foot and a half, cord measure, of soil.As soon as it shows some heat, turn it, and repeat the process, two orthree times, until it is well decomposed, when apply. Another excellent

way to use fish waste is to compost it with barn manure, in the openfields. It will be best to have six inches of soil under the heap, andnot layer the fish with the lower half of the manure, for it strikesdown. Glue waste is a very coarse, lumpy manure, and requires a greatdeal of severe manipulation, if it is to be applied the first season. Abetter way is to compost it with soil, layer with layer, having eachlayer about a foot in thickness, and so allow it to remain over untilthe next season, before using. This will decompose most of the straw,and break down the hard, tough lumps. In applying this to the crop, mostof it had better be used broadcast, as it is apt, at best, to be rathertoo coarse and concentrated to be used liberally directly in the hill.Slaughter-house manure should be treated much like glue manure.

Mr. Proctor, of Beverly, has raised cabbage successfully on strong claysoil, by spreading a compost of muck containing fish waste, in which thefish is well decomposed, at the rate of two tons of the fish to an acreof land, after plowing, and then, having made his furrows at the rightdistance apart, harrowing the land thoroughly crossways with thefurrows. The result was, besides mixing the manure thoroughly with thesoil, to land an extra proportion of it in the furrows, which wasequivalent to manuring in the drill.

Cabbage can be raised on fertilizers alone. I have raised some crops inthis way; but have been led to plow in from four to six cords of goodmanure to the acre, and then use from five hundred to a thousand poundsof some good fertilizer in the hill. The reason I prefer to use aportion of the cabbage food in the form of manure, is, that I havenoticed that when the attempt is made to raise the larger drumheadvarieties on fertilizers only, the cabbages, just as the heads are wellformed, are apt to come nearly to a standstill. I explain this on thesupposition that they exhaust most of the fertilizer, or some one of theingredients that enter into it, during the earlier stage of growth;perhaps from the fact that the food is in so easily digestiblecondition, they use an over share of it, and the fact that those fed onfertilizers only, tend to grow longer stumped than usual, appears togive weight to this opinion. Though any good fertilizer is good forcabbage, yet I prefer those compounded on the basis of an analysis ofthe composition of the plants; they should contain the threeingredients, nitrogen, potash, and phosphoric acid, in the proportion ofsix, seven, five, taking them in the order in which I have written them.

MAKING THE HILLS AND PLANTING THE SEED.

The idea is quite prevalent that cabbages will not head up well except

the plants are started in beds, and then transplanted into the hillswhere they are to mature. This is an error, so far as it applies to theNorthern States,--the largest and most experienced cultivators ofcabbage in New England usually dropping the seed directly where theplant is to stand, unless they are first started under glass, or thepiece of land to be planted cannot be prepared in season to enable thefarmer to put his seed directly in the hill and yet give the cabbagetime sufficient to mature. Where the climate is unpropitious, or thequantity of manure applied is insufficient, it is possible thattransplanting may promote heading. The advantages of planting directlyin the hill, are a saving of time, avoiding the risks incidental totransplanting, and having all the piece start alike; for, whentransplanted, many die and have to be replaced, while some hesitate muchlonger than others before starting, thus making a want of uniformity inthe maturing of the crop. There is, also, this advantage, there beingseveral plants in each hill, the cut-worm has to depredate prettyseverely before he really injures the piece; again, should the seed notvegetate in any of the hills, every farmer will appreciate the advantageof having healthy plants growing so near at hand that they can betransferred to the vacant spaces with their roots so undisturbed thattheir growth is hardly checked. In addition to the labor oftransplanting saved by this plan, the great check that plants alwaysreceive when so treated is prevented, and also the extra risks thatoccur should a season of drouth follow. It is the belief of somefarmers, that plants growing where the seed was planted are less liableto be destroyed by the cut-worm than those that have been transplanted.When planning to raise late cabbage on upland, I sow a portion of theseed on a moist spot, or, in case a portion of the land is moist, Iplant the hills on such land with an extra quantity of seed, that I mayhave enough plants for the whole piece, should the weather prove to betoo dry for the seed to vegetate on the dryer portions of it. It is wiseto sow these extra plants about a week earlier, for they will be putback about a week by transplanting them.

Some of our best farmers drill their seed in with a sowing machine, suchas is used for onions, carrots, and other vegetable crops. This is avery expeditious way, and has the advantage of leaving the plants inrows instead of bunches, as in the hill system, and thus enables the hoeto do most of the work of thinning. It has also this advantage: eachplant being by itself can be left much longer before thinning, and yetnot grow long in the stump, thus making it available for transplanting,or for sale in the market, for a longer period.

The usual way of preparing the hills is to strike out furrows with asmall, one-horse plough, as far apart as the rows are to be. As it isvery important that the rows should be as straight as practicable, it isa good plan to run back once in each furrow, particularly on sod land

where the plough will be apt to catch in the turf and jump out of line.A manure team follows, containing the dressing for the hills, which haspreviously been pitched over and beaten up until all the ingredients arefine and well mixed. This team is so driven, if possible, as to avoidrunning in the furrows. Two or three hands follow with forks or shovels,pitching the manure into the furrows at the distance apart that has beendetermined on for the hills. How far apart these are to be will dependon the varieties, from eighteen inches to four feet. On land that hasbeen very highly manured for a series of years, cabbage can be plantednearer than on land that has been under the plow but a few years. Forthe distance apart for different varieties see farther on. The manure islevelled with hoes, a little soil is drawn over it, and a slight stampwith the back of the hoe is given to level this soil, and, at the sametime, to mark the hill. The planter follows with seed in a tin box, orany small vessel having a broad bottom, and taking a small pinch betweenthe thumb and forefinger he gives a slight scratch with the remainingfingers of the same hand, and dropping in about half a dozen seed coversthem half an inch deep with a sweep of the hand, and packs the earth bya gentle pat with the open palm to keep the moisture in the ground andthus promote the vegetation of the seed. With care a quarter of a poundof seed will plant an acre, when dropped directly in the hills; but halfa pound is the common allowance, as there is usually some waste fromspilling, while most laborers plant with a free hand.

The soil over the hills being very light and porous, careless hands areapt to drop the seed too deep. Care should be taken not to drop the seedall in one spot, but to scatter them over a surface of two or threeinches square, that each plant may have room to develop without crowdingits neighbors.

If the seed is planted in a line instead of in a mass the plants can beleft longer before the final thinning without danger of growing tall andweak.

If the seed is to be drilled in, it will be necessary to scatter themanure all along the furrows, then cover with a plough, roughly levelingwith a rake.

Should the compost applied to the hills be very concentrated, it willbe apt to produce stump foot; it will, therefore, be safest in suchcases to hollow out the middle with the corner of the hoe, or draw thehoe through and fill in with earth, that the roots of the young plantsmay not come in direct contact with the compost as soon as they begin to

push.

When guano or phosphates are used in the hills it will be well to markout the rows with a plough, and then, where each hill is to be, fill inthe soil level to the surface with a hoe, before applying them. I have,in a previous paragraph, given full instructions how to apply these. Henmanure, if moist, should be broken up very fine, and be mixed with somedry earth to prevent it from again lumping together, and the mixtureapplied in sufficient quantity to make an equivalent of a heapinghandful of pure hen manure to each hill. Any liquid manure is excellentfor the cabbage crop; but it should be well diluted, or it will belikely to produce stump foot.

Cabbage seed of almost all varieties are nearly round in form, but arenot so spherical as turnip seed. I note, however, that seed of theSavoys are nearly oval. In color they are light brown when firstgathered, but gradually turn dark brown if not gathered too early. Anounce contains nearly ten thousand seed, but should not be relied uponfor many over two thousand good plants, and these are available forabout as many hills only when raised in beds and transplanted; whendropped directly in the hills it will take not far from eight ounces ofthe larger sorts to plant an acre, and of the smaller cabbage rathermore than this. Cabbage seed when well cured and kept in close bags willretain their vitality four or five years; old gardeners prefer seed ofall the cabbage family two or three years old.

When the plan is to raise the young plants in beds to be transplanted,the ground selected for the beds should be of rich soil; this should bevery thoroughly dug, and the surface worked and raked very fine, everystone and lump of earth being removed. Now sprinkle the seed evenly overthe bed and gently rake in just under the surface, compacting the soilby pressure with a board. As soon as the young plants appear, sprinklethem with air-slaked lime. Transplant when three or four inches high,being very careful not to let the plants get tall and weak.

For late cabbage, in the latitude of Boston, to have cabbages ready formarket about the first of November, the Marblehead Mammoth should beplanted the 20th of May, other late drumheads from June 1st to June12th, provided the plants are not to be transplanted; otherwise a weekearlier. In those localities where the growing season is later, the seedshould be planted proportionally later.

CARE OF THE YOUNG PLANTS.

In four or five days, if the weather is propitious, the young plants

will begin to break ground, presenting at the surface two leaves, whichtogether make nearly a square, like the first leaves of turnips orradishes. As soon as the third leaf is developed, go over the piece, andboldly thin out the plants. Wherever they are very thick, pull a mass ofthem with the fingers and thumb, being careful to fill up the hole madewith fine earth. After the fourth leaf is developed, go over the pieceagain and thin still more; you need specially to guard against aslender, weak growth, which will happen when the plants are toocrowded. In thinning, leave the short-stumped plants, and leave them asfar apart in the hill as possible, that they may not shade each other,or so interfere in growing as to make long stumps. If there is anymarket for young plants, thousands can be sold from an acre when theseed are planted in the hill; but in doing this bear in mind that yourprincipal object is to raise cabbages, and to succeed in this the youngplants must on no account be allowed to stand so long together in thehills as to crowd each other, making a tall, weak, slendergrowth,--getting "long-legged," as the farmers call it.

If the manure in any of the hills is too strong, the fact will be knownby its effects on the plants, which will be checked in their growth, andbe of a darker green color than the healthy plants. Gently pull away theearth from the roots of such with the fingers, and draw around freshearth; or, what is as well or better, transplant a healthy plant just onthe edge of the hill. When the plants are finger high they are of a goodsize to transplant into such hills as have missed, or to market. Whentransplanting, select a rainy day, if possible, and do not begin untilsufficient rain has fallen to moisten the earth around the roots, whichwill make it more likely to adhere to them when taken up. Take up theyoung plants by running the finger or a trowel under them; put theseinto a flat basket or box, and in transplanting set them to the samedepth they originally grew, pressing the earth a little about the roots.

If it is necessary to do the transplanting in a dry spell, as usuallyhappens, select the latter part of the afternoon, if practicable, and,making holes with a dibble, or any pointed stick an inch and a half indiameter, fill these holes, a score or more at a time, with water; andas soon as the water is about soaked away, beginning with the hole firstfilled, set out your plants. The evaporation of the moisture below theroots will keep them moist until they get a hold. Cabbage plants havegreat tenacity of life, and will rally and grow when they appear to bedead; the leaves may all die, and dry up like hay, but if the stumpstands erect and the unfolded leaf at the top of the stump is alive, theplant will usually survive. When the plants are quite large, they may beused successfully by cutting or breaking off the larger leaves. Someadvocate wilting the plants before transplanting, piling them in the

cellar a few days before setting them out, to toughen them and get a newsetting of fine roots; others challenge their vigor by making it a ruleto do all transplanting under the heat of mid-day. I think there is notmuch of reason in this latter course. The young plants can be set outalmost as fast as a man can walk, by holding the roots close to one sideof the hole made by the dibble, and at the same moment pressing earthagainst them with the other hand.

PROTECTING THE PLANTS FROM THEIR ENEMIES.

As soon as they have broken through the soil, an enemy awaits them inthe small black insect commonly known as the cabbage or turnip fly,beetle, or flea. This insect, though so small as to appear to the eye asa black dot, is very voracious and surprisingly active. He apparentlyfeeds on the juice of the young plant, perforating it with small holesthe size of a pin point. He is so active when disturbed that hismotions cannot be followed by the eye, and his sense of danger is sokeen that only by cautiously approaching the plant can he be seen atall. The delay of a single day in protecting the young plants from hisravages will sometimes be the destruction of nearly the entire piece.Wood ashes and air-slaked lime, sprinkled upon the plants while theleaves are moist from either rain or dew, afford almost completeprotection. The lime or ashes should be applied as soon as the plant canbe seen, for then, when they are in their tenderest condition, the flyis most destructive. I am not certain that the alkaline nature of theseaffords the protection, or whether a mere covering by common dust mightnot answer equally well. Should the covering be washed off by rain,apply it anew immediately after the rain has ceased, and so continue tokeep the young plants covered until the third or fourth leaves aredeveloped when they will have become too tough to serve as food for thisinsect enemy.

A new enemy much dreaded by all cabbage raisers will begin to make hisappearance about the time the flea disappears, known as the cut-worm.This worm is of a dusky brown color, with a dark colored head, andvaries in size up to about two inches in length. He burrows in theground just below the surface, is slow of motion, and does hismischievous work at night, gnawing off the young plants close at thesurface of the ground. This enemy is hard to battle with. If the patchbe small, these worms can be scratched out of their hiding places bypulling the earth carefully away the following morning for a few inchesaround the stump of the plant destroyed, when the rascals will usuallybe found half coiled together. Dropping a little wood ashes around theplants close to the stumps is one of the best of remedies; its alkaline

properties burning his nose I presume. A tunnel of paper put around thestump but not touching it, and sunk just below the surface, isrecommended as efficacious; and from the habits of the worm I shouldthink it would prove so. Perpendicular holes four inches deep and aninch in diameter is said to catch and hold them as effectively as do thepit falls of Africa the wild animals. Late planted cabbage will sufferlittle or none from this pest, as he disappears about the middle ofJune. Some seasons they are remarkably numerous, making it necessary toreplant portions of the cabbage patch several times over. I have heardof as many as twenty being dug at different times the same season out ofone cabbage hill. The farmer who tilled that patch earned his dollars.When the cabbage has a stump the size of a pipe stem it is beyond thedestructive ravages of the cut-worm, and should it escape stump foot hasusually quite a period of growth free from the attacks of enemies.Should the season prove unpropitious and the plant be checked in itsgrowth, it will be apt to become "lousy," as the farmers term it,referring to its condition when attacked by a small green insect knownas aphidae, which preys upon it in myriads; when this is the case theleaves lose their bright green, turn of a bluish cast, the leaf stockslose somewhat of their supporting powers, the leaves curl up intoirregular shapes, and the lower layer turns black and drops off, whilethe ground under the plant appears covered with the casts or bodies ofthe insects as with a white powder. When in this condition the plantsare in a very bad way.

Considering the circumstances under which this insect appears, usuallyin a very dry season, I hold that it is rather the product than thecause of disease, as with the bark louse on our apple-trees; as a remedyI advocate sprinkling the plants with air-slaked lime, watering, ifpossible, and a frequent and thorough stirring of the soil with thecultivator and hoe. The better the opportunities the cabbage have todevelop themselves through high manuring, sufficient moisture, gooddrainage, and thorough cultivation, the less liable they are to be"lousy." As the season advances there will sometimes be found patcheseaten out of the leaves, leaving nothing but the skeleton of leaf veins;an examination will show a band of caterpillars of a light green colorat work, who feed in a compact mass, oftentimes a square, with as muchregularity as though under the best of military discipline. The readiestway to dispose of them is to break off the leaf and crush them underfoot. The common large red caterpillar occasionally preys on the plants,eating large holes in the leaves, especially about the head. When thecabbage plot is bordered by grass land, in seasons when grasshoppers areplenty, they will frequently destroy the outer rows, puncturing theleaves with small holes, and feeding on them until little besides theirskeletons remain. In isolated locations rabbits and other vegetablefeeders sometimes commit depredations. The snare and the shot-gun arethe remedy for these.

Other insects that prey upon the cabbage tribe, in their caterpillarstate, are the cabbage moth, white-line, brown-eyed moth, large white

garden butterfly, white and green veined butterfly. All of these producecaterpillars, which can be destroyed either by application ofair-slaked lime, or by removing the leaves infested and crushing theintruders under foot. The cabbage-fly, father-long-legs, the millipedes,the blue cabbage-fly, brassy cabbage-flea, and two or three other insectenemies are mentioned by McIntosh as infesting the cabbage fields ofEngland; also three species of fungi known as white rust, mildew, and_cylindrosporium concentricum_; these last are destroyed by thesprinkling of air-slaked lime on the leaves. In this country, along thesea coast of the northern section, in open-ground cultivation, there iscomparatively but little injury done by these marauders, which are thecause of so much annoyance and loss to our English cousins.

THE GREEN WORM.

A new and troublesome enemy to the cabbage tribe which has made itsappearance within a few years, and spread rapidly over a large sectionof the country, is a green worm, _Anthomia brassicae_. This pest infeststhe cabbage tribe at all stages of its growth; it is believed to havebeen introduced into this country from Europe, by the way of Canada,where it was probably brought in a lot of cabbage. It is the caterpillarof a white butterfly with black spots on its wings. In Europe, thisbutterfly is preyed on by two or more parasites, which keep it somewhatin check; but its remarkably rapid increase in this country, causing awail of lamentation to rise in a single season from the cabbage growersover areas of tens of thousands of square miles, proved that when itfirst appeared it had reached this country without its attendantparasites.

Besides this green worm, there are found in Europe four varieties ofcaterpillar variously marked, the caterpillars from all of which makegreat havoc among the cabbage tribe.

The most effective destroyer of this, and about every other insect pest,is what is known as the "Kerosene Emulsion." This is made by churningcommon kerosene with milk or soap until it is diffused through theliquid.

Take one quart of kerosene oil and pour it into a pint of hot water inwhich an ounce of common soap has been dissolved; churn this brisklywhile hot (a force pump is excellent for this), and, when well mixed,which will be in a few minutes, it will be of a creamy consistency; mixone quart to ten or twelve of cold water, and spray or sprinkle it overthe plants with a force-pump syringe or a whisk broom.

Another remedy is pyrethrum. Use that which is fresh; either blowing iton in a dry state with a bellows, wherever the worm appears, or using itdiluted, at the rate of a tablespoonful to two gallons of water;applying as with the kerosene emulsion. Mr. A. S. Fuller, who is goodauthority on garden matters, succeeds by applying tar-water. Place acouple of quarts of coal tar in a barrel and fill with water; let itstand forty-eight hours, then dip off, and apply with a watering-pot, orsyringe.

Chickens allowed to run freely among the growing plants, the hen beingconfined in a movable coop, if once attracted to them will fatten onthem. This remedy might answer very well for small plots. Large areas incabbage, in proportion to their size are, as a rule, far less injured byinsect enemies than small patches. The worm is of late years lesstroublesome in the North than formerly.

CLUB OR STUMP FOOT AND MAGGOT.

The great dread of every cabbage grower is a disease of the branchingroots, producing a bunchy, gland-like enlargement, known in differentlocalities under the name of club foot, stump foot, underground head,finger and thumb. The result is a check in the ascent of the sap, whichcauses a defective vitality. There are two theories as to the origin ofclub foot; one that it is a disease caused by poor soil, badcultivation, and unsuitable manures; the other that the injury is doneby an insect enemy, _Curculio contractus_. It is held by some that themaggots at the root are the progeny of the cabbage flea. This I doubt.This insect, "piercing the skin of the root, deposits its eggs in theholes, lives during a time on the sap of the plant, and then escapes andburies itself for a time in the soil."

If the wart, or gland-like excrescence, is seen while transplanting,throw all such plants away, unless your supply is short; in such case,carefully trim off all the diseased portions with a sharp knife. If thedisease is in the growing crop, it will be made evident by the droopingof the leaves under the mid-day sun, leaves of diseased plants droopingmore than those of healthy ones, while they will usually have a bluercast. Should this disease show itself, set the cultivator goingimmediately, and follow with the hoe, drawing up fresh earth around theplants, which will encourage them to form new fibrous roots; should theydo this freely, the plants will be saved, as the attacks of the insectare usually confined to the coarse, branching roots. Should the diseaseprevail as late as when the plants have reached half their growth, the

chances are decidedly against raising a paying crop.

When the land planted is too wet, or the manure in the hill is toostrong, this dreaded disease is liable to be found on any soil; but itis most likely to manifest itself on soils that have been previouslycropped with cabbage, turnip, or some other member of the Brassicafamily.

Farmers find that, as a rule, _it is not safe to follow cabbage, rutabaga, or any of the Brassica family, with cabbage, unless three or fouryears have intervened between the crops_; and I have known an instancein growing the Marblehead Mammoth, where, though five years hadintervened, that portion of the piece occupied by the previous cropcould be distinctly marked off by the presence of club-foot.

Singular as it may appear, old gardens are an exception to this rule.While it is next to impossible to raise, in old gardens, a fair turnip,free from club-foot, cabbages may be raised year after year on the samesoil with impunity, or, at least, with but trifling injury from thatdisease. This seems to prove, contrary to English authority, thatclub-foot in the turnip tribe is the effect of a different cause fromthe same disease in the cabbage family.

There is another position taken by Stephens in his "Book of the Farm,"which facts seem to disprove. He puts forth the theory that "all suchdiseases arise from poverty of the soil, either from want of manure whenthe soil is naturally poor, or rendered effete by over-cropping." Thereis a farm on a neck of land belonging to this town (Marblehead, Mass.),which has peculiar advantages for collecting sea kelp and sea moss, andthese manures are there used most liberally, particularly in thecultivation of cabbage, from eight to twelve cords of rotten kelp, whichis stronger than barn manure, and more suitable food for cabbage, beingused to the acre. A few years ago, on a change of tenants, the newincumbent heavily manured a piece for cabbage, and planted it; but, asthe season advanced, stump-foot developed in every cabbage on one sideof the piece, while all the remainder were healthy. Upon inquiry, helearned that, by mistake, he had overlapped the cabbage plot of lastseason just so far as the stump-foot extended. In this instance, itcould not have been that the cabbage suffered for want of food; for, notonly was the piece heavily manured that year and the year previous, butit had been liberally manured through a series of years, and, to a largeextent, with the manure which, of all others, the cabbage tribe delightin, rotten kelp and sea mosses. I have known other instances where soil,naturally quite strong, and kept heavily manured for a series of years,has shown stump-foot when cabbage were planted, with intervals of twoand three years between. My theory is, that the _mere presence of the

cabbage_ causes stump-foot on succeeding crops grown on the same soil.This is proved by the fact that where a piece of land in grass, closeadjoining a piece of growing cabbage, had been used for stripping themfor market, when this was broken up the next season and planted tocabbage, stump-foot appeared only on that portion where the waste leavesfell the year previous. I have another instance to the same point, toldme by an observing farmer, that, on a piece of sod land, on which he ranhis cultivator the year previous, when turning his horse every time hehad cultivated a row, he had stump-footed cabbage the next season justas far as that cultivator went, dragging, of course, a few leaves and alittle earth from the cabbage piece with it. Still, though the merepresence of cabbage causes stump-foot, it is a fact, that, under certainconditions, cabbage can be grown on the same piece of land year afteryear successfully, with but very little trouble from stump-foot. In thistown (Marblehead), though, as I have stated, we cannot, on our farms,follow cabbage with cabbage, even with the highest of manuring andcultivation, yet in the gardens of the town, on the same kind of soil(and our soil is green stone and syenite, not naturally containinglime), there are instances where cabbage has been successfully followedby cabbage, on the same spot, for a quarter of a century and more. Inthe garden of an aged citizen of this town, cabbages have been raised_on the same spot of land_ for over half a century.

The cause of stump foot cannot, therefore, be found in the poverty ofthe soil, either from want of manure or its having been rendered effetefrom over cropping. It is evident that by long cultivation soilsgradually have diffused through them something that proves inimical tothe disease that produces stump foot. I will suggest as probable thatthe protection is afforded by the presence of some alkali that oldgardens are constantly acquiring through house waste which is alwaysfinding its way there, particularly the slops from the sink, whichabound in potash. This is rendered further probable from the fact givenby Mr. Peter Henderson, that, on soils in this vicinity, naturallyabounding in lime, cabbage can be raised year following year with almostimmunity from stump foot. He ascribes this to the effects of lime inthe soil derived from marine shells, and recommends that lime from bonesbe used to secure the same protection; but the lime that enters into thecomposition of marine shells is for the most part carbonate of lime,whereas the greater portion of that which enters into the composition ofbones is phosphate of lime. Common air-slaked lime is almost purecarbonate of lime, and hence comes nearer to the composition of marineshells than lime from bones, and, being much cheaper, would appear to bepreferable.

An able farmer told me that by using wood ashes liberally he couldfollow with cabbage the next season on the same piece. One experiment of

my own in this direction did not prove successful, where ashes at therate of two hundred bushels to the acre were used; and I have animpression that I have read of a like want of success after quiteliberal applications of lime. In a more recent experiment, on a gravellyloam on one of my seed farms in Middleton, Mass., where two hundredbushels of unleached ashes were used per acre, three-fourths broadcast,I have had complete success, raising as good a crop as I ever grew thesecond year on the same land, without a single stump foot on half anacre. Still, it remains evident, I think, that nature prevents stumpfoot by the diffusing of alkalies through the soil, and I mistrust thatthe reason why we sometimes fail with the same remedies is that we havethem mixed, rather than intimately combined, with the particles of soil.

The roots of young plants are sometimes attacked by a maggot, thoughthere is no club root present. A remedy for this is said to be in theburying of a small piece of bi-sulphide of carbon within a few inchesof the diseased plant. I have never tried it, but know that there is nobetter insecticide.

As I have stated under another head, an attack of club foot is almostsure to follow the use of pure hog manure, whether it be used broadcastor in the hill. About ten years ago I ventured to use hog manure nearlypure, spread broadcast and ploughed in. Stump foot soon showed itself. Icultivated and hoed the cabbage thoroughly; then, as they still appearedsickly, I had the entire piece thoroughly dug over with a six-tinedfork, pushing it as deep or deeper into the soil than the plough hadgone, to bring up the manure to the surface; but all was of no use; Ilost the entire crop. Yet, on another occasion, stable manure on whichhogs had been kept at the rate of two hogs to each animal, gave me oneof the finest lots of cabbage I ever raised.

CARE OF THE GROWING CROP.

As soon as the young plants are large enough to be seen with the nakedeye, in with the cultivator and go and return once in each row, beingcareful not to have any lumps of earth cover the plants. Follow thecultivator immediately with the hoe, loosening the soil about the hills.The old rule with farmers is to cultivate and hoe cabbage three timesduring their growth, and it is a rule that works very well where thecrop is in good growing condition; but if the manure is deficient, thesoil bakes, or the plants show signs of disease, then cultivate and hoeonce or twice extra. "Hoe cabbage when wet," is another farmer's axiom.In a small garden patch the soil may be stirred among the plants as

often as may be convenient: it can do no harm; cabbages relish tending,though it is not necessary to do this every day, as one enthusiasticcultivator evidently thought, who declared that, by hoeing his cabbagesevery morning, he had succeeded in raising capital heads.

If a season of drouth occurs when the cabbages have begun to head, theheads will harden prematurely; and then should a heavy rain fall, theywill start to make a new growth, and the consequence will be many ofthem will split. Split or bursted cabbage are a source of great loss tothe farmer, and this should be carefully guarded against by goingfrequently over the piece when the heads are setting, and starting everycabbage that appears to be about mature. A stout-pronged potato hoeapplied just under the leaves, and a pull given sufficient to start theroots on one side, will accomplish what is needed. If cabbage that haveonce been started seem still inclined to burst, start the roots on theother side. Instead of a hoe they may be pushed over with the foot, orwith the hand. Frequently, heads that are thus started will grow todouble the size they had attained when about to burst. There is a markeddifference in this habit in different varieties of cabbage. I find thatthe Hard-heading is less inclined to burst its head than any of thekinds I raise.

MARKETING THE CROP.

When preparing for market cabbages that have been kept over winter,particularly if they are marketed late in the season, the edges of theleaves of some of the heads will be found to be more or less decayed; donot strip such leaves off, but with a sharp knife cut clean off thedecayed edges. The earlier the variety the sooner it needs to bemarketed, for, as a rule, cabbages push their shoots in the spring inthe order of their earliness. If they have not been sufficientlyprotected from the cold, the stumps will often rot off close to thehead, and sometimes the rot will include the part of the stump thatenters the head. If the watery-looking portion can be cut clean out, thehead is salable; otherwise it will be apt to have an unpleasant flavorwhen cooked. As a rule, cabbages for marketing should be trimmed into ascompact a form as possible; the heads should be cut off close to thestump, leaving two or three spare leaves to protect them. They may bebrought out of the piece in bushel baskets, and be piled on the wagon ashigh as a hay stack, being kept in place by a stout canvas sheet tiedclosely down. In the markets of Boston, in the fall of the year, theyare usually sold at a price agreed upon by the hundred head; this willvary not only with the size and quality of the cabbage, but with theseason, the crop, and the quality in market on that particular day.Within a few years I have known the range of price for the Stone Mason

or Fottler cabbage, equal in size and quality, to be from $3 to $17 perhundred; for the Marblehead Mammoth from $6 to $25 per hundred. Cabbagesbrought to market in the spring are usually sold by weight or by thebarrel, at from $1 to $4 per hundred pounds.

The earliest cabbages carried to market sometimes bring extraordinaryprices; and this has created a keen competition among market gardeners,each striving to produce the earliest, a difference of a week inmarketing oftentimes making a difference of one half in the profits ofthe crop. Capt. Wyman, who controlled the Early Wyman cabbage forseveral years, sold some seasons thirty thousand heads if my memoryserves me, at pretty much his own price. As a rule, it is the very earlyand the very late cabbages that sell most profitably. Should the marketfor very late cabbages prove a poor one, the farmer is not compelled tosell them, no matter at what sacrifice, as would be the case a monthearlier; he can pit them, and so keep them over to the early springmarket which is almost always a profitable one. In marketing in springit should be the aim to make sale before the crops of spring greensbecome plenty, as these replace the cabbage on many tables. By startingcabbage in hot beds a crop of celery or squashes may follow them thesame season.

KEEPING CABBAGES THROUGH THE WINTER.

In the comparatively mild climate of England, where there are but fewdays in the winter months that the ground remains frozen to any depth,the hardy cabbage grows all seasons of the year, and turnips left duringwinter standing in the ground are fed to sheep by yarding them over thedifferent portions of the field. With the same impunity, in the southernportion of our own country, the cabbages are left unprotected during thewinter months; and, in the warmer portions of the South they areprincipally a winter crop. As we advance farther North, we find that thedegree of protection needed is afforded by running the plough along eachside of the rows, turning the earth against them, and dropping a littlelitter on top of the heads. As we advance still farther northward, wefind sufficient protection given by but little more than a rough roof ofboards thrown over the heads, after removing the cabbages to asheltered spot and setting them in the ground as near together as theywill stand without being in contact, with the tops of the heads justlevel with the surface.

In the latitude of central New England, cabbages are not secure from

injury from frost with less than a foot of earth thrown over the heads.In mild winters a covering of half that depth will be sufficient; but aswe have no prophets to foretell our mild winters, a foot of earth issafer than six inches. Where eel-grass can be procured along the seacoast, or there is straw or coarse hay to spare, the better plan is tocover with about six inches of earth, and when this is frozensufficiently hard to bear a man's weight (which is usually aboutThanksgiving time), to scatter over it the eel-grass, forest leaves,straw, or coarse hay, to the depth of another six inches. Eel-grass,which grows on the sandy flats under the ocean along the coast, ispreferred to any other covering as it lays light and keeps in dead airwhich is a non-conductor of heat. Forest leaves are next in value; butsnow and water are apt to get among these and freezing solid destroymost of their protecting value. When I use forest leaves, I cover themwith coarse hay, and add branches of trees to prevent its being blownaway. In keeping cabbages through the winter, three general facts shouldbe borne in mind, viz.: that repeated freezing and thawing will causethem to rot; that excessive moisture or warmth will also cause rot;while a dry air, such as is found in most cellars, will abstractmoisture from the leaves, injure the flavor of the cabbage, and causesome of the heads to wilt, and the harder heads to waste. In the MiddleStates we have mostly to fear the wet of winter, and the plan forkeeping for that section should, therefore, have particularly in viewprotection from moisture, while in the Northern States we have to fearthe cold of winter, and, consequently, our plan must there havespecially in view protection from cold.

When storing for winter, select a dry day, if possible, sufficientlylong after rainy weather to have the leaves free of water,--otherwisethey will spout it on to you, and make you the wettest and muddiestscarecrow ever seen off a farm,--then strip all the outer leaves fromthe head but the two last rows, which are needed to protect it. This maybe readily done by drawing in these two rows toward the head with theleft hand, while a blow is struck against the remaining leaves with thefist of the right hand. Next pull up the cabbages, which, if they are ofthe largest varieties, may be expeditiously done by a potato hoe. Ifthey are not intended for seed purposes, stand the heads down and stumpsup until the earth on the roots is somewhat dry, when it can be mostlyremoved by sharp blows against the stump given with a stout stick. Inloading do not bruise the heads. Select the place for keeping them in adry, level location, and, if in the North, a southern exposure, where nowater can stand and there can be no wash. To make the pit, run theplough along from two to four furrows, and throw out the soil with theshovel to the requisite depth, which may be from six to ten inches; now,if the design is to roof over the pit, the cabbages may be put in asthickly as they will stand; if the heads are solid they may be eitherhead up or stump up, and two layers deep; but if the heads are soft,then heads up and one deep, and not crowded very close, that they mayhave room to make heads during the winter. Having excavated an areatwelve by six feet, set a couple of posts in the ground midway at each

end, projecting about five feet above the surface; connect the two by ajoist secured firmly to the top of each, and against this, extending tothe ground just outside the pit, lay slabs, boards or poles, and coverthe roof that will be thus formed with six inches of straw or old hay,and, if in the North, throw six or eight inches of earth over this.Leave one end open for entrance and to air the pit, closing the otherend with straw or hay. In the North close both ends, opening one of themoccasionally in mild weather.

When cabbages are pitted on a large scale this system of roofing is toocostly and too cumbersome. A few thousand may be kept in a cool rootcellar, by putting one layer heads down, and standing another layerheads up between these. Within a few years farmers in the vicinity ofLowell, Mass., have preserved their cabbages over winter, on a largescale, by a new method, with results that have been very satisfactory.They cut off that portion of the stump which contains the root; stripoff most of the outer leaves, and then pile the cabbages in piles, sixor eight feet high, in double rows, with boards to keep them apart, incool cellars, which are built half out of ground. The temperature ofthese, by the judicious opening and closing of windows, is kept asnearly as possibly at the freezing point. The common practice in theNorth, when many thousands are to be stored for winter and spring sales,is to select a southern exposure having the protection of a fence orwall, if practicable, and, turning furrows with the plough, throw outthe earth with shovels, to the depth of about six inches; the cabbages,stripped as before described, are then stored closely together, andstraw or coarse hay is thrown over them to the depth of a foot oreighteen inches. Protected thus they are accessible for market at anytime during the winter. If the design is to keep them over till spring,the covering may be first six inches of earth, to be followed, as coldincreases, with six inches of straw, litter, or eel-grass. This latteris my own practice, with the addition of leaving a ridge of earthbetween every three or four rows, to act as a support and keep thecabbages from falling over. I am, also, careful to bring the cabbages tothe pit as soon as pulled, with the earth among the roots as littledisturbed as possible; and, should the roots appear to be dry, to throwa little earth over them after the cabbages are set in the trench. Thefew loose leaves remaining will prevent the earth from sifting downbetween the heads, and the air chambers thus made answer a capitalpurpose in keeping out the cold, as air is one of the bestnon-conductors of heat. It is said that muck-soil, when well drained, isan excellent one to bury cabbage in, as its antiseptic propertiespreserve them from decay. If the object is to preserve the cabbage formarket purposes only, the heads may be buried in the same position inwhich they grew, or they may be inverted, the stump having no value initself; but if for seed purposes, they must be buried head up, as,whatever injures the stump, spoils the whole cabbage for that object. Istore between ten and fifty thousand heads annually to raise seed from,and carry them through till planting time with a degree of success

varying from a loss, for seed purposes, of from one-half to thirty-threeper cent. of the number buried; but, if handled early in spring, manythat would be worthless for seed purposes, could be profitably marketed.A few years since, I buried a lot with a depth varying from one to fourfeet, and found, on uncovering them in the spring, that all had kept,and apparently equally well. In the winter of 1868, excessively coldweather came very early and unexpectedly, before my cabbage plot hadreceived its full covering of litter. The consequence was, the frostpenetrated so deep that it froze through the heads into the stumps, and,when spring came, a large portion of them came out spoiled for seedpurposes, though most of them sold readily in the market. A cabbage isrendered worthless for seed when the frost strikes through the stumpwhere it joins the head; and though, to the unpractised eye, all mayappear right, yet, if the heart of the stump has a water-soakedappearance on being cut into, it will almost uniformly decay just belowthe head in the course of a few weeks after having been planted out. Ifthere is a probability that the stumps have been frozen through, examinethe plot early, and, if it proves so, sell the cabbages for eatingpurposes, no matter how sound and handsome the heads look; if you delayuntil time for planting out the cabbage for seed, meanwhile much wastewill occur. I once lost heavily in Marblehead Mammoth cabbage by havingthem buried on a hill-side with a gentle slope. In the course of thewinter they fell over on their sides, which let down the soil fromabove, and, closing the air-chambers between them, brought the hugeheads into a mass, and the result was, a large proportion of them rottedbadly. At another time, I lost a whole plot by burying them in soilbetween ledges of rock, which kept the ground very wet when springopened; the consequence was, every cabbage rotted. If the heads arefrozen more than two or three leaves deep before they are pitted theywill not come out so handsome in the spring; but cabbages are veryhardy, and they readily rally from a little freezing, either in the openground or after they are buried, though it is best, when they are frozenin the open ground, to let them remain there until the frost comes outbefore removing them, if it can be done without too much risk offreezing still deeper, as they handle better then, for, being tougher,the leaves are not so easily broken. If the soil is frozen to any depthbefore the cabbages are removed, the roots will be likely to be injuredin the pulling, a matter of no consequence if the cabbages are intendedfor market, but of some importance if they are for seed raising. Largecabbages are more easily pulled by giving them a little twist; if forseed purposes, this should be avoided, as it injures the stump. A smalllot, that are to be used within a month, can be kept hung up by thestump in the cellar of a dwelling-house; they will keep in this wayuntil spring; but the outer leaves will dry and turn yellow, the headsshrink some in size, and be apt to lose in quality. Some practise

putting clean chopped straw in the bottom of a box or barrel, wettingit, and covering with heads trimmed ready for cooking, adding again wetstraw and a layer of heads, so alternating until the barrel or box isfilled, after which it is headed up and kept in a cool place, at, or alittle below, the freezing point. No doubt this is an excellent way topreserve a small lot, as it has the two essentials to success, keepingthem cool and moist.

Instead of burying them in an upright position, after a deep furrow hasbeen made the cabbages are sometimes laid on their sides two deep, withtheir roots at the bottom of the furrow, and covered with earth in thisposition. Where the winter climate is so mild that a shallow coveringwill be sufficient protection, this method saves much labor.

HAVING CABBAGE MAKE HEADS IN WINTER.

When a piece of drumhead has been planted very late (sometimes they areplanted on ground broken up after a crop of hay has been taken from itthe same season), there will be a per cent. of the plants when thegrowing season is over that have not headed. With care almost all ofthese can be made to head during the winter. A few years ago I selectedmy seed heads from a large piece and then sold the first "pick" of whatremained at ten cents a head, the second at eight cents, and so downuntil all were taken for which purchasers were willing to give one centeach. Of course, after such a thorough selling out as this, there wasnot much in the shape of a head left. I now had what remained pulled upand carted away, doubtful whether to feed them to the cows or to setthem out to head up during winter. As they were very healthy plants inthe full vigor of growth, having rudimentary heads just gathering in, Idetermined to set them out. I had a pit dug deep enough to bring thetops of the heads, when the plants were stood upright as they grew, justabove the surface of the ground; I then stood the cabbages in withoutbreaking off any of the leaves, keeping the roots well covered withearth, having the plants far enough apart not to crowd each other verymuch, though so near as to press somewhat together the two outercircles of leaves. They were allowed to remain in this condition untilit was cold enough to freeze the ground an inch in thickness, when acovering of coarse hay was thrown over them a couple of inches thick,and, as the cold increased in intensity, this covering was increased toten or twelve inches in thickness, the additions being made at two orthree intervals. In the spring I uncovered the lot, and found thatnearly every plant had headed up. I sold the heads for four cents apound; and these refuse cabbages averaged me about ten cents a head,which was the price my best heads brought me in the fall. I have seenthousands of cabbages in one lot, the refuse of several acres that had

been planted on sod land broken up the same season a crop of hay hadbeen taken from it, made to head by this course, and sold in the springfor $1.30 per barrel. When there is a large lot of such cabbages themost economical way to plant them will be in furrows made by the plough.Most of the bedding used in covering them, if it be as coarse as itought to be to admit as much air as possible while it should not matdown on the cabbages, will, with care in drying, be again available forcovering another season, or remain suitable for bedding purposes. These"winter-headed" cabbages, as they are called in the market, are not sosolid and have more shrinkage to them than those headed in the openground; hence they will not bear transportation as well, neither willthey keep as long when exposed to the air. The effect of winteringcabbage by burying in the soil is to make them exceedingly tender fortable use.

VARIETIES OF CABBAGE.

If a piece of land is planted with seed grown from two heads of cabbagethe product will bear a striking resemblance to the two parent cabbages,with a third variety which will combine the characteristics of thesetwo, yet the resemblance will be somewhat modified at times by a littlemore manure, a little higher culture, a little better location, and theaddition of an individuality that particular vegetables occasionallytake upon themselves which we designate by the word "sport." The"sports" when they occur are fixed and perpetuated with remarkablereadiness in the cabbage family, as is proved by a great number ofvarieties in cultivation, which are the numerous progeny of oneancestor. The catalogues of the English and French seedsmen contain longlists of varieties, many of which (and this is especially true of theearly kinds) are either the same variety under a different name or aredifferent "strains" of the same variety produced by the carefulselections of prominent market gardeners through a series of years.

Every season I experiment with foreign and American varieties of cabbageto learn the characteristics of the different kinds, their comparativeearliness, size, shape, and hardness of head, length of stump, and suchother facts as would prove of value to market gardeners. There is onefact that every careful experimenter soon learns, that one season willnot teach all that can be known relative to a variety, and that a numberof specimens of each kind must be raised to enable one to make a faircomparison. It is amusing to read the dicta which appear in theagricultural press from those who have made but a single experiment withsome vegetable; they proclaim more after a single trial than a cautious

experimenter would dare to declare after years spent in carefulobservation. The year 1869 I raised over sixty varieties of cabbage,importing nearly complete suites of those advertised by the leadingEnglish and French seed houses, and collecting the principal kindsraised in this country. In the year 1888, I grew eighty-five differentvarieties and strains of cabbages and cauliflowers. I do not proposedescribing all these in this treatise or their comparative merits; ofsome of them I have yet something to learn, but I will endeavor tointroduce with my description such notes as I think will prove of valueto my fellow farmers and market gardeners.

I will here say in general of the class of early cabbages, that most ofthem have elongated heads between ovoid and conical in form. They appearto lack in this country the sweetness and tenderness that characterizesome varieties of our drumhead, and, consequently, in the North when thedrumhead enters the market there is but a limited call for them.

It may be well here to note a fundamental distinction between thedrumhead cabbage of England and those of this country. In England thedrumhead class are almost wholly raised to feed to stock. I venture theconjecture that owing in part, or principally, to the fact Europeangardeners have never had the motive, and, consequently, have neverdeveloped the full capacity of the drumhead as exampled by the finevarieties raised in this country. The securing of sorts reliable forheading being with them a matter of secondary consideration, seed israised from stumps or any refuse heads that may be standing when springcomes round. For this reason English drumhead cabbage seed is bettersuited to raise a mass of leaves than heads, and always disappoints ourAmerican farmers who buy it because it is cheap with the expectation ofraising cabbage for market. English-grown drumhead cabbage seed isutterly worthless for use in this country except to raise greens orcollards.

The following are foreign varieties that are accepted in this country asstandards, and for years have been more or less extensively cultivated:EARLY YORK, EARLY OXHEART, EARLY WINNIGSTADT, RED DUTCH, RED DRUMHEAD.In my experience as a seed dealer, the Sugar Loaf and Oxheart are losingground in the farming community, the Early Jersey Wakefield having, to alarge extent, replaced them.

~Early York.~ Heads nearly ovoid, rather soft, with few waste leavessurrounding them, which are of a bright green color. Reliable forheading. Stump rather short. Plant two feet by eighteen inches. Thiscabbage has been cultivated in England over a hundred years. LITTLEPIXIE with me is earlier than Early York, as reliable for heading,heads much harder, and is of better flavor; the heads do not grow quiteas large.

~Early Oxheart.~ Heads nearly egg-shaped, small, hard, few waste leaves,stumps short. A little later than Early York. Have the rows two feetapart, and the plants eighteen inches apart in the row.

~Early Winnigstadt.~ (A German cabbage.) Heads nearly conical in shape,having usually a twist of leaf at the top; larger than Oxheart, areharder than any of the early oblong heading cabbages; stumps middlingshort. Matures about ten days later than Early York. The Winnigstadt isremarkably reliable for heading, being not excelled in this respect whenthe seed has been raised with care, by any cabbage grown. It is acapital sort for early market outside our large cities, where the veryearly kinds are not so eagerly craved. It is so reliable for heading,that it will often make fine heads where other sorts fail; and I wouldadvise all who have not succeeded in their efforts to grow cabbage, totry this before giving up their attempts. It is raised by some forwinter use, and where the drumheads are not so successfully raised, Iwould advise my farmer friends to try the Winnigstadt, as the heads areso hard that they keep without much waste. Have rows two feet apart, andplant twenty inches to two feet apart in the rows.

~Red Dutch.~ Heads nearly conical, medium sized, hard, of a very deepred; outer leaves numerous, and not so red as the head, being somewhatmixed with green; stump rather long. This cabbage is usually planted toolate; it requires nearly the whole season to mature. It is used forpickling, or cut up fine as a salad, served with vinegar and pepper.This is a very tender cabbage, and, were it not for its color, would bean excellent sort to boil; to those who have a mind to eat it with theireyes shut, this objection will not apply.

~Red Drumhead.~ Like the preceding, with the exception that the headsgrow round, or nearly so, are harder, and of double the size. It is verydifficult to raise seed from this cabbage in this country. I amacquainted with five trials, made in as many different years, two ofwhich I made myself, and all were nearly utter failures, the yield, whenthe hardest heads were selected, being at about the rate of two greatspoonfuls of seed from every twenty cabbages. French seed-growers aremore successful, otherwise this seed would have to sell at a far higherfigure in the market than any other sort.

~The Little Pixie.~ has much to recommend it, in earliness, quality,reliability for heading, and hardness of the head; earlier than EarlyYork, though somewhat smaller.

Among those that deserve to be heartily welcomed and grow in favor, arethe EARLY ULM SAVOY (for engraving and description of which seeunder head of Savoy), and the ST. DENNIS DRUMHEAD, a late,short-stumped sort, setting a large, round, very solid head, as large,but harder, than Premium Flat Dutch. The leaves are of a bluish-green,

and thicker than those of most varieties of drumhead. Our brethren inCanada think highly of this cabbage, and if we want to try a newdrumhead, I will speak a good word for this one.

~Early Schweinfurt~, or ~Schweinfurt Quintal~, is an excellent earlydrumhead for family use; the heads range in size from ten to eighteeninches in diameter, varying with the conditions of cultivation more thanany other cabbage I am acquainted with. They are flattish round, weighfrom three to nine pounds when well grown, are very symmetrical inshape, standing apart from the surrounding leaves. They are not solid,though they have the finished appearance that solidity gives; they areremarkably tender, as though blanched, and of very fine flavor. It isamong the earliest of drumheads, maturing at about the same time as theEarly Winnigstadt. As an early drumhead for the family garden, it has nosuperior; and where the market is near, and does not insist that acabbage head must be hard to be good, it has proved a very profitablemarket sort.

The following are either already standard American varieties of cabbage,or such as are likely soon to become so; very possibly there are two orthree other varieties or strains that deserve to be included in thelist. I give all that have proved to be first class in my locality:EARLY WAKEFIELD, EARLY WYMAN, EARLY SUMMER, ALL SEASONS, HARD HEADING,SUCCESSION, WARREN, VANDERGAW, PEERLESS, NEWARK, FLAT DUTCH, PREMIUMFLAT DUTCH, STONE MASON, LARGE LATE DRUMHEAD, MARBLEHEAD MAMMOTHDRUMHEAD, AMERICAN GREEN GLAZED, FOTTLER'S DRUMHEAD, BERGEN DRUMHEAD,DRUMHEAD SAVOY, and AMERICAN GREEN GLOBE SAVOY. All of these varieties,as I have previously stated, are but improvements of foreign kinds; butthey are so far improved through years of careful selection andcultivation, that, as a rule, they appear quite distinct from theoriginals when grown side by side with them, and this distinction ismore or less recognized, in both English and American catalogues, by theadjective "American" or "English" being added after varieties bearingthe same name.

~Early Wakefield~, sometimes called ~Early Jersey Wakefield.~ Headsmostly nearly conical in shape but sometimes nearly round, of good sizefor early, very reliable for heading; stumps short. A very popular earlycabbage in the markets of Boston and New York. Plant two and a half feetby two feet. There are two strains of this cabbage, one a little laterand larger than the other.

[Illustration]

[Illustration]

~Early Wyman.~ This cabbage is named after Capt. Wyman, of Cambridge,the originator. Like Early Wakefield the heads are usually somewhatconical, but sometimes nearly round; in structure they are compact. Inearliness it ranks about with the Early Wakefield, and making heads of

double the size, it has a high value as an early cabbage. Capt. Wymanhad entire control of this cabbage until within the past few years, and,consequently, has held Boston Market in his own hands, to the chagrin ofhis fellow market gardeners, raising some seasons as many as thirtythousand heads. Have the rows from two to two and a half feet apart, andthe plants from twenty to twenty-four inches apart in the row. Crane'sEarly is a cross between the Wyman and Wakefield, intermediate in sizeand earliness.

[Illustration]

~Premium Flat Dutch.~ Large, late variety; heads either round or flat,on the top (varying with different strains); rather hard; color bluishgreen; leaves around heads rather numerous; towards the close of theseason, the edge of some of the exterior leaves and the top of the headsassume a purple cast. The edges of the exterior leaves, and of the twoor three that make the outside of the head, are quite ruffled, so thatwhen grown side by side with Stone Mason, this distinction between thehabit of growth of the two varieties is noticeable at quite a distance.Stumps short; reliable for heading. Have the rows three feet apart, andthe plants from two and a half to three feet apart in the rows. Thiscabbage is very widely cultivated, and, in many respects, is anexcellent sort to raise for late marketing. There are several strains ofit catalogued by different seedsmen under various names, such as SureHead, &c.

[Illustration]

~Stone Mason.~ An improvement on the Mason, which cabbage was selectedby Mr. John Mason of Marblehead, from a number of varieties of cabbagethat came from a lot of seed purchased and planted as Savoys. Mr. JohnStone afterwards improved upon the Mason cabbage, by increasing the sizeof the heads. Different growers differ in their standard of a StoneMason cabbage, in earliness and lateness, and in the size, form, andhardness of the head. But all these varieties agree in thecharacteristics of being very reliable for heading, in having headswhich are large, very hard, very tender, rich and sweet; short stumps,and few waste leaves. The color of the leaves varies from a bluish greento a pea-green, and the structure from nearly smooth to much blistered.In their color and blistering some specimens have almost a Savoy cast.The heads of the best varieties of Stone Mason range in weight from sixto twenty-five pounds, the difference turning mostly on soil, manure,and cultivation.

The Stone Mason is an earlier cabbage than Premium Flat Dutch, has fewerwaste leaves, and side by side, under high cultivation, grows to anequal or larger size, while it makes heads that are decidedly harder and

sweeter. These cabbages are equally reliable for heading. I am inclinedto the opinion that under poor cultivation the Premium Flat Dutch willdo somewhat better than the Stone Mason.

Until the introduction of Fottler's Drumhead it was the standarddrumhead cabbage in the markets of Boston and other large cities of theNorth. Have the rows three feet apart, and the plants from two to threefeet apart in the row.

~Large Late Drumhead.~ Heads large, round, sometimes flattened at thetop, close and firm; loose leaves numerous; stems short; reliable forheading, hardy, and a good keeper. The name "Large Late Drumhead"includes varieties raised by several seedsmen in this country, all ofwhich resemble each other in the above characteristics, and differ inbut minor points. Have rows three feet apart, and plants from two and ahalf to three feet apart in the row.

~Marblehead Mammoth Drumhead.~ This is the largest of the cabbagefamily, having sometimes been grown to weigh over ninety pounds to theplant. It originated in Marblehead, Mass., being produced by Mr. Alley,probably from the Mason, by years of high cultivation and carefulselection of seed stock. I introduced this cabbage and the Stone Masonto the general public many years ago, and it has been pretty thoroughlydisseminated throughout the United States. Heads varying in shapebetween hemispherical and spherical, with but few waste leavessurrounding them; size very large, varying from fifteen to twenty inchesin diameter, and, in some specimens, they have grown to theextraordinary dimensions of twenty-four inches. In good soil, and withthe highest culture, this variety has attained an average weight ofthirty pounds by the acre. Quality, when well grown, remarkably sweetand tender, as would be inferred from the rapidity of its growth.Cultivate in rows four feet apart, and allow four feet between theplants in the rows. Sixty tons of this variety have been raised from asingle acre.

~American Green Glazed.~ Heads loose, though rather large, with a greatbody of waste leaves surrounding them; quality poor; late; stump long.This cabbage was readily distinguished among all the varieties in myexperimental plot by the deep, rich green of the leaves, with theirbright lustre as though varnished. It is grown somewhat extensively inthe South, as it is believed not to be so liable to injury from insectsas other varieties. Plant two and a half feet apart each way. I wouldadvise my Southern friends to try the merits of other kinds beforeadopting this poor affair. I know, through my correspondence, that theMammoth has done well as far South as Louisiana and Cuba, and theFottler, in many sections of the South, has given great satisfaction.

[Illustration]

~Fottler's Early Drumhead.~ Several years ago a Boston seedsman importeda lot of cabbage seed from Europe, under the name of Early Brunswick

Short Stemmed. It proved to be a large heading and very early Drumhead.The heads were from eight to eighteen inches in diameter nearly flat,hard, sweet, and tender in quality; few waste leaves; stump short. Inearliness it was about a fortnight ahead of the Stone Mason. It was somuch liked by the market gardeners that the next season he ordered alarger quantity; but the second importation, though ordered and sentunder the same name, proved to be a different and inferior kind, and thesame result followed one or two other importations. The two gardenerswho received seed of the first importation brought to market a fine,large Drumhead, ten days or a fortnight ahead of their fellows. The seedof the true stock was eagerly bought up by the Boston market gardeners,most of it at _five dollars an ounce_. After an extensive trial on alarge scale by the market farmers around Boston, and by farmers invarious parts of the United States, Fottler's Cabbage has given greatsatisfaction, and become a universal favorite, and when once known it,and especially the improved strain of it, known as Deep Head, is fastreplacing some of the old varieties of Drumhead. Very reliable forheading.

[Illustration]

~Vandergaw Cabbage.~ This new Long Island Cabbage must be classed as ANo. 1 for the midsummer and late market. It is as sure to head as theSuccession, and has some excellent characteristics in common.

It makes large, green heads, hard, tender, and crisp. This is anacquisition.

[Illustration]

~The Warren Cabbage.~ This first-class cabbage is closely allied to, butan improvement on, the old Mason Cabbage of twenty-five years ago. Itmakes a head deep, round, and very hard, the outer leaves wrapping itover very handsomely. In reliability for heading no cabbage surpassesit; a field of them when in their prime is as pretty a sight as acabbage man would wish to see. It comes in as early as some strains ofFottler, and a little earlier than others. A capital sort to succeed theEarly Summer. The heads being very thick through, and nearly round, makeit an excellent sort to carry through the winter, as it "peels" well, ascabbage-growers say. Ten inches in diameter, in size it is just aboutright for profitable marketing. A capital sort, exceedingly popularamong market-man in this vicinity.

[Illustration]

~Early Bleichfeld Cabbage.~ I find the Bleichfeld to be among theearliest of the large, hard-heading Drumheads, maturing earlier than theFottler's Brunswick. The heads are large, very solid, tender whencooked, and of excellent flavor. The color is a lighter green than mostvarieties and it is as reliable for heading as any cabbage I have evergrown. The above engraving I have had made from a photograph of a

specimen grown on my grounds.

[Illustration]

~Danish Drumhead Cabbage.~ In 1879, Mr. Edward Abelgoord wrote me fromCanada, that he raised a large Drumhead Cabbage, the seed of which wasbrought from Denmark, which was the best kind of cabbage that he hadseen in that latitude (46 deg.), being very valuable for the extreme North.It was earlier than Fottler's Drumhead, and made large, flat heads, ofexcellent flavor, and was so reliable for heading. I raised a field ofthis new cabbage, and it proved a large, flat, early Drumhead, veryreliable for heading.

[Illustration]

~The Reynolds Early Cabbage.~ In the year 1875, Mr. Franklin Reynolds,of this town, crossed the Cannon-Ball Cabbage on the SchweinfurtQuintal, by carefully transferring the pollen of the former on thelatter, the stamens having first been removed, and immediately tyingmuslin around the impregnated blossoms to keep away all insects. Theresults were a few ripe seeds. These were carefully saved and plantedthe next season, when the product showed the characteristics of the twoparents. The best heads were selected from the lot, and, from these,seeds were raised. Several selections were made of the choicest headsfrom year to year; and I now have the pleasure of introducing theresults, _a new cabbage which combines the good qualities of both itsparents_.

The flavor of this new cabbage is rich, tender, and sweet, beingsuperior to the general Drumhead class, making it a very superiorvariety for family use, and also for marketing when there is not a longtransportation. None of the scores of varieties I have ever grown has ashorter stump than this; the heads appear to rest directly on theground, and no one is surer to head.

[Illustration]

~All-Seasons Cabbage.~ This new cabbage is the result of a cross made bya Long Island gardener between the Flat Dutch and a variety of Drumhead.The result is a remarkably large, early Drumhead, that matures close intime with the Early Summer, while it is from one third to one halflarger. It is an excellent variety either as an early or late sort; theroundness of the head, leaving a thick, solid cabbage, should it becomenecessary, as is often the case with those marketed in the spring, topeel off the outer layer of leaves. Heads large in size, solid andtender, and rich flavored when cooked. It has already, in three years,verified the prophecy I made when sending it out, and become a standardvariety in some localities.

[Illustration]

~Gregory's Hard-Heading Cabbage.~ I am not acquainted with any varietyof cabbage (I believe I have raised about all the native and foreignvarieties that have been catalogued) that makes so hard a head as doesthe "Hard-heading" when fully matured. Neither am I acquainted with anyvariety that is so late a keeper as is this; the German gardener, fromwhom I obtained it, said that it gave him, and his friends who had it,complete control of the Chicago market for about a fortnight after allother varieties had "played out." My own experience with it tends toconfirm this statement, for under the same conditions it kept decidedlylater than all my other varieties, was greener in color, and whenplanted out they were so late to push seed-shoots that I almostdespaired of getting a crop of seed. I find, also, that they are muchless inclined to burst than any of the hard-heading varieties. Headsgrow to a good market size, are more globular than Flat Dutch; and, asmight be presumed, of great weight in proportion to their size. Thecolor is a peculiar green, rather more of an olive than most kinds ofcabbage. About a fortnight later than Flat Dutch. For late fall, winter,and spring sales plant 3 by 3 the first of June.

[Illustration]

~Early Deep-Head Cabbage.~ This is a valuable improvement on the Fottlermade by years of careful selection and high cultivation by Mr. Alley ofMarblehead, a famous cabbage grower, who, as the name indicates, hasproduced a deeper, rounder heading variety than the original Fottler,thus making what that was not, an excellent sort for winter and springmarketing. It has all the excellent traits of its parent in reliabilityfor making large, handsome heads.

~Bergen Drumhead.~ Heads round, rather flat on the top, solid; leavesstout, thick, and rather numerous; stump short. With me, under samecultivation, it is later than Stone Mason. It is tender and of goodflavor. A popular sort in many sections, particularly in the markets ofNew York City. Have the plants three feet apart each way.

SAVOY CABBAGES.

The Savoys are the tenderest and richest-flavored of cabbages, thoughnot always as sweet as a well-grown Stone Mason; nor is a Savoy grown onpoor soil, or one that has been pinched by drouth, as tender as a StoneMason that has been grown under favoring circumstances; yet it remains,as a rule, that the Savoy surpasses all other cabbages in tenderness,and in a rich, marrow-like flavor. The Savoys are also the hardiest ofthe cabbage tribe, enduring in the open field a temperature withinsixteen degrees of zero without serious injury; and if the heads are not

very hard they will continue to withstand repeated changes from freezingto thawing for a couple of months, as far north as the latitude ofBoston. A degree of freezing improves them, and it is common in thatlatitude to let such as are intended for early winter use, in thefamily, remain standing in the open ground where they grew, cutting theheads as they are wanted.

As a rule Savoys neither head as readily (the "Improved American Savoy"being an exception) nor do the heads grow as large as the Drumheadvarieties; indeed, most of the kinds in cultivation are so unreliable inthese respects as to be utterly worthless for market purposes, andnearly so for the kitchen garden.

~The Drumhead Savoy.~ This, as the name implies, is the result of across between a Savoy and a Drumhead cabbage, partaking of thecharacteristics of each. Many of the cabbages sold in the market asSavoy are really this variety. One variety in my experimental garden,which I received as TOUR'S SAVOY (evidently a Drumhead varietyof the Savoy), proved to be much like Early Schweinfurt in earliness andstyle of heading; the heads were very large, but quite loose instructure; I should think it would prove valuable for family use.

It is a fact that does not appear to be generally known that we haveamong the Savoys some remarkably early sorts which rank with theearliest varieties of cabbage grown. Pancalier and Early Ulm Savoy areearlier than that old standard of earliness, Early York; Pancalier beingsomewhat earlier than Ulm.

~Pancalier~ is characterized by very coarsely blistered leaves of thedarkest-green color; the heads usually gather together, being the onlyexception I know of to the rule that cabbage heads are made up ofoverlapping leaves, wrapped closely together. It has a short stump, andwith high cultivation is reliable for heading. The leaves nearest thehead, though not forming a part of it, are quite tender, and may becooked with the head. Plant fifteen by thirty inches.

~Early Ulm Savoy~ is a few days later than Pancalier, and makes a largerhead; the leaves are of a lighter green and not so coarsely blistered;stump short; head round; very reliable for heading. It has a capitalcharacteristic in not being so liable as most varieties to burst thehead and push the seed shoot immediately after the head is matured. Forfirst early, I know no cabbages so desirable as these for the kitchengarden.

[Illustration]

The ~Early Dwarf Savoy~ is a desirable variety of second early. Theheads are rather flat in shape, and grow to a fair size. Stumps short;reliable for heading.

~Improved American Savoy.~ Everything considered, this is the Savoy,"par excellence," for the market garden. It is a true Savoy, the heads

grow to a large size, from six to ten inches in diameter, varying, ofcourse, with soil, manure, and cultivation. In shape the heads aremostly globular, occasionally oblong, having but few waste leaves, andgrow very solid. Stump short. In reliability for heading it isunsurpassed by any other cabbage.

[Illustration]

~Golden Savoy~ differs from other varieties in the color of the head,which rises from the body of light green leaves, of a singular paleyellow color, as though blanched. The stumps are long, and the headrather small, a portion of these growing pointed. It is very late, notworth cultivating, except as a curiosity.

~Norwegian Savoy.~ This is a singular half cabbage, half kale--at least,so it has proved under my cultivation. The leaves are long, narrow,tasselated, and somewhat blistered. The whole appearance is verysingular and rather ornamental. I have tried this cabbage twice, buthave never got beyond the possible promise of a head.

~Victoria Savoy~, ~Russian Savoy~, and ~Cape Savoy~, tested in myexperimental garden, did not prove desirable either for family use orfor market purposes.

~Feather Stemmed Savoy.~ This is a cross between the Savoy and Brusselssprouts, having the habit of growth of Brussels sprouts.

OTHER VARIETIES OF CABBAGE.

I will add notes on some other varieties which have been tested, fromyear to year, in my experimental plot. The results from tests ofdifferent strains of standard sorts, I have not thought it worth thewhile to record.

~Cannon Ball.~ The heads are usually spherical, attaining to a diameterof from five to nine inches, with the surrounding leaves gathered ratherclosely around them; in hardness and relative weight it is excelled bybut few varieties. Stump short. It delights in the highest cultivationpossible. It is about a week later than Early York. In those marketswhere cabbages are sold by weight, it will pay to grow for market; it isa good cabbage for the family garden.

~Early Cone~, of the Wakefield class, but with me not as early.

~Garfield Pickling~, of late variety, of the conical class.

~Cardinal Red.~ A large, late variety of red; but on my grounds, it isnot equal to Red Drumhead.

~Vilmorin's Early Flat Dutch.~ Not quite as large as Early Summer,though about as early and resembles it in shape of head.

~Royal German Drumhead.~ Reliable for heading.

~Large White Solid Magdeburg.~ A late Drumhead; short stumped; reliablefor heading. Medium late.

~Pak Choi.~ Evidently of the Kale class; no heads.

~Chou de Burghlez~ and ~Chou de Milan~. These are coarse, loose, smallheading varieties, allied to Kale. The latter is of the Savoy class.

~Earliest Erfurt Blood-Red.~ Decidedly the earliest of the red cabbages.Very reliable for heading. A Drumhead; smaller than Red Drumhead. Verydark red.

~Empress.~ Resembles Wyman in size and shape; but the heads are morepointed, and it makes head earlier. Heads well.

~Schlitzer.~ This makes heads mostly shaped like the Winnigstadt, but athird larger. Its mottling of green and purple gives it a strikingappearance. Early and very reliable for heading. Heads are not veryhard; but, when cooked, are just about as tender and rich-flavored asthe Savoy. Promises to be an excellent sort for family use.

~Rothelburg.~ An early sure heading variety of the Drumhead class. Headsof medium size; resembling in shape Deep Head.

~Sure Head.~ A strain of Flat Dutch. A late variety; heads deeper thanFottler, but with me not so reliable.

~Dark Red Pointed.~ Resembles Winnigstadt in shape. About as late as RedDutch, and not as desirable.

~Bacalan Late.~ In shape resembles Winnigstadt. Grow a little wild.

~Amack.~ A late variety. Heads generally nearly globular and quite hard.Very reliable for heading.

~Bangholm.~ First of all. As early as the earliest, but very small,--notas large as Little Pixie.

~Early Enfield Market.~

~Tourleville.~ Heads resemble Wakefield in form; but, with me, areneither so large nor so large, and are more inclined to burst.

~Danish Round Winter.~ A late variety; bearing deep, hard heads on longstumps.

~Dwarf Danish.~ Late. Reliable to head; uneven in time of heading. Worthplanting for market.

~Danish Ball Drumhead.~ Heads not characterized by globular shape, but

rather flattish. Irregular in length of stump.

~Early Paris.~ Closely resembles Wakefield.

~Very Early Etampes.~ Earlier than Wakefield. Shape partakes of bothOxheart and Wakefield.

~Early Mohawk.~ Light green in color; a good header, but not so hardheading as Fottler. Appears to have a little of the Savoy cross in it.

~Sure Head.~ A late variety of the Dutch class; reliable for heading;stump rather long.

~Excelsior.~ A variety which is of the Fottler class, but makes smallersized heads.

~Louisville Drumhead.~ Of the flat Dutch type; nearly as early as EarlySummer.

~Early Advance.~ Of the Wakefield type. With me it is full as early asWakefield, and considerably larger. Rather coarser in structure.

~Market Garden.~ Of the Fottler class; very reliable for heading. Headsof good size, but rather coarser than the Deep Head.

~Chase's Excelsior.~ A second early; much like Fottler; heads finely.

~Bloomsdale Early Market.~ With me this is not as good a variety asWakefield.

~Berkshire Beauty.~ There appear to be fine possibilities in thiscabbage, which have not yet been developed into uniformity.

~Landredth's Extra Early.~ With me it does not prove as early asWakefield, and does not head as well.

~Bridgeport Late Drumhead.~ A large Drumhead; in size, between StoneMason and Marblehead Mammoth. Reliable for heading, but does not head ashard as either of these varieties. Not inclined to burst.

~Large French Oxheart~ closely resembles Early Oxheart, but grows todouble the size, and is about ten days later; quality usually good.

~Early Sugar Loaf.~ Heads shaped much like a loaf of sugar standing onits smaller end, resembling, as Burr well says, a head of Cos lettuce inits shape, and in the peculiar clasping of the leaves about the head.Heads rather hard, medium size; early, and tender. It is said not tostand the heat as well as most sorts.

~Large Brunswick Short-Stemmed.~ (English seed.) Late, long-stumped,wild, plenty of leaves, almost no head; bears but a slight resemblanceto Fottler's Drumhead.

~Early Empress.~ Cabbages well; heads conical; early.

~Robinson's Champion Ox Drumhead.~ Stump long; heads soft and not very

large; wild.

~English Winnigstadt.~ Long-stumped; irregular; not to be compared withFrench stock.

~Blenheim.~ Early; heads mostly conical; of good size.

~Shillings Queen.~ Early; heads conical; stumps long.

~Carter's Superfine Early Dwarf.~ Surpasses in earliness and hardness ofhead. Closely allied to Little Pixie.

~Enfield Market Improved.~ Most of the heads were flat; rather wild; notto be compared with Fottler.

~Kemp's Incomparable.~ Long-headed; heads, when mature, do not appear toburst as readily as with most of the conical class.

~Fielderkraut.~ Closely resembles Winnigstadt, with larger and longerheads and stump; requires more room than Winnigstadt.

~Ramsay's Winter Drumhead.~ Closely resembles St. Dennis. I think it isthe same.

~Pomeranian Cabbage.~ Heads very long; quite large for a conical headingsort; very symmetrical and hard; color, yellowish-green. It handleswell, and I should think would prove a good keeper. Medium early.

~Alsacian Drumhead.~ Stump long; late; wild.

~Marbled Bourgogne.~ Stumps long; heads small and hard; color, a mixtureof green and red.

CABBAGE GREENS.

In the vicinity of our large cities, the market gardeners sow largeareas very thickly with cabbage seed, early in the spring, to raiseyoung plants to be sold as greens. The seed is sown broadcast at therate of ten pounds and upwards to the acre. Seed of the Savoy cabbage isusually sown for this purpose, which may be sometimes purchased at adiscount, owing to some defect in quality or purity, that would renderit worthless for planting for a crop of heading cabbage.

The young plants are cut off about even with the ground, when four orfive inches high, washed, and carried to market in barrels or bushelboxes. The price varies with the state of the market, from 12 cents to$3 a barrel, the average price in Boston market being about a dollar.With the return of spring most families have some cabbage stumps

remaining in the cellar; these can be planted about a foot apart in somehandy spot along the edge of the garden, where they will not interferewith the general crop, setting them under ground from a quarter to ahalf their length, depending on the length of the stumps. They will soonbe covered with green shoots, which should be used as greens before theblossom buds show themselves, as they then become too strong to beagreeable. If the spot is rich and has been well dug, the rapidity ofgrowth is surprising; and if the shoots are frequently gathered, manynice messes of greens can be grown from a few stumps. Farmers inNorthern Vermont tell me, that if they break off each seed shoot as soonas it shows itself, close home to the stump, nice little heads will pushout on almost every stump. In England, where the winter climate is muchmilder than that of New England, it is the practice to raise a secondcrop of heads in this way. In my own neighborhood I have seen an acrefrom which a crop of drumhead cabbage had been cut off early in theseason, every stump on which had from three to six hard heads, varyingfrom the size of a hen's egg to that of a goose egg; but to get thissecond growth of heads, as much of the stump and leaves should be leftas possible, when cutting out the original head. As in the cabbagedistricts of the North little or no use is made of this prolific aftergrowth, it is worse than useless to suffer the ground to be exhausted byit; the stump should be pulled by the potato hoe as soon as the headsare marketed. When cabbages are planted out for seed, if, for anyreason, the seed shoot fails to push out, and at times when it does pushout, fine sprouts for greens will start below the head; when the stockof these sprouts becomes too tough for use, the large leaves may bestripped from them and cooked. I usually break off the tender tops oflarge sprouts, and then strip off the tenderest of the large leavesbelow.

CABBAGE FOR STOCK.

No vegetable raised in the temperate zone, Mangold Wurtzel aloneexcepted, will produce as much food to the acre, both for man and beast,as the cabbage. I have seen acres of the Marblehead Mammoth drumheadwhich would average thirty pounds to each cabbage, some specimensweighing over sixty pounds. The plants were four feet apart each waywhich would give a product of over forty tons to the acre; and I havetested a crop of Fottler's that yielded thirty tons of green food to thehalf acre. Other vegetables are at times raised for cattle feed, such aspotatoes, carrots, ruta bagas, mangold wurtzels; a crop of potatoesyielding four hundred bushels to the acre at sixty pounds the bushelwould weigh twelve tons; a crop of carrot yielding twelve hundredbushels to the acre would weigh thirty tons; ruta bagas sometimes yieldthirty tons; and mangolds as high as seventy tons to the acre. I have

set all these crops at a high capacity for fodder purposes; the samefavoring conditions of soil, manure, and cultivation that would producefour hundred bushels of potatoes, twelve hundred bushels of carrots, andthirty-five tons of ruta baga turnips, would give a crop of forty tonsof the largest variety of drumhead cabbage. If we now consider thecomparative merits of these crops for nutriment, we find that thecabbage excels them all in this department also. The potatoes abound instarch, the mangold and carrot are largely composed of water, while thecabbage abounds in rich, nitrogeneous food.

Prof. Stewart states that cabbage for milch cows has about the samefeeding value as sweet corn ensilage, and makes the value not over $3.40per ton. Now it is admitted by general current that the value of commonensilage, which is inferior to that made from sweet corn, is, whencompared with good English hay, as 3 to 1. This would make cabbages formilch cows worth not far from $7.00 per ton.

When cabbage is kept for stock feed later than the first severe frost,if the quantity is large there is considerable waste even with the bestof care. The loose leaves should be fed first, and the heads kept in acool place, not more than two or three deep, at as near the freezingpoint as possible. If it has been necessary to cut the heads from thestumps, they may be piled, after the weather has set in decidedly cold,conveniently near the barn, and kept covered with a foot of straw orold litter. As long as a cabbage is kept frozen there is no waste to it;but if it be allowed to freeze and thaw two or three times, it will soonrot with an awful stench. I suspect that it is this rotten portion ofthe cabbage that often gives the bad flavor to milk. On the other hand,if it is kept in too warm and dry a place, the outer leaves will dry,turning yellow, and the whole head lose in weight,--if it be not veryhard, shrivelling, and, if hard, shrinking. If they are kept in too warmand wet a place, the heads will decay fast, in a black, soft rot. Thebest way to preserve cabbages for stock into the winter, is to placethem in trenches a few inches below the surface, and there cover withfrom a foot to two feet of coarse hay or straw, the depth depending onthe coldness of the locality. When the ground has been frozen too hardto open with a plough or spade, I have kept them until spring by pilingthem loosely, hay-stack shape, about four feet high, letting the froststrike through them, and afterwards covering with a couple of feet ofeel-grass; straw or coarse hay would doubtless do as well.

I have treated of cabbage thus far when grown specially for stock; inevery piece of cabbage handled for market purposes, there is a largeproportion of waste suitable for stock feed, which includes the outsideleaves and such heads as have not hardened up sufficiently for market.

On walking over a piece just after my cabbages for seed stock have beentaken off, I note that the refuse leaves that were stripped from theheads before pulling are so abundant they nearly cover the ground. Ifleaves so stripped remain exposed to frost, they soon spoil; or, ifearlier in the season they are exposed to the sun, they soon becomeyellow, dry, and of but little value. They can be rapidly collected witha hay fork and carted, if there be but a few, into the barn; shouldthere be a large quantity, dump them within a convenient distance of thebarn or feeding ground, but not where the cattle can trample them, andspread them so that they will be but a few inches in depth. If piled inheaps they will quickly heat; but even then, if not too much decayed,cattle will eat them with avidity. Cabbages are hardy plants, and looseheads will stand a good deal of freezing and thawing without seriousinjury. They are not generally injured with the thermometer 16 deg. belowfreezing. The waste, after the seed and all market cabbage are removed,brings me about $10 per acre on the ground, for cow feed.

If cabbage is fed to cows in milk without some care, it will be apt togive the milk a strong cabbage flavor; all the feed for the day shouldbe given early in the morning. Beginning with a small quantity, andgradually increasing it, the dairy man will soon learn his limits. Theeffect of a liberal feed to milk stock is to largely increase the flowof milk. Avoid feeding to any extent while the leaves are frozen.

An English writer says: "The cabbage comes into use when other thingsbegin to fail, and it is by far the best succulent vegetable for milkingcows,--keeping up the yield of milk, and preserving, better than anyother food, some portion of the quality which cheese loses when the cowsquit their natural pasturage. Cows fed on cabbages are always quiet andsatisfied, while on turnips they often scour and are restless. Whenfrosted, they are liable to produce hoven, unless kept in a warm shed tothaw before being used; fifty-six pounds given, at two meals, are asmuch as a large cow should have in a day. Frequent cases of abortion arecaused by an over-supply of green food. Cabbages are excellent for younganimals, keeping them in health, and preventing 'black leg.' A calf ofseven months may have twenty pounds a day."

RAISING CABBAGE SEED.

Cabbage seed in England, particularly of the drumhead sorts, is mostlyraised from stumps, or from the refuse that remains after all that issalable has been disposed of. The agent of one of the largest Englishseed houses, a few years since, laughed at my "wastefulness," as hetermed it, in raising seed from solid heads. In our country, cabbage

seed is mostly raised from soft, half-formed heads, which are grown as alate crop, few, if any of them, being hard enough to be of any value inthe market. Seedsmen practise selecting a few fine, hard heads, fromwhich to raise their seed stock. It has been my practice to grow seedfrom none but extra fine heads, better than the average of those carriedto market. I do this on the theory that no cabbage can be too good for aseedhead, if the design is to keep the stock first-class. Perhaps suchstrictness may not be necessary; but I had rather err in setting out toogood heads than too poor ones; besides, the great hardness obtained bythe heads of the Stone Mason, makes it possible, at least, that I amright. Cabbage raised from seed grown from stumps are apt to beunreliable for heading, and to grow long-stumped, though underunfavorable conditions, long-stumped and poor-headed cabbage may growfrom the best of seed. To have the best of seed, all shoots that startbelow the head should be broken off. To prevent the plants falling overafter the seed-stalks are grown, dig deep holes, and plant the entirestump in the ground. Scarecrows should be set up, or some likeprecaution be taken, to keep away the little seed-birds, that begin tocrack the pods as soon as they commence to ripen. A plaster cat is avery good scarecrow to frighten away birds from seed and small fruits,if its location is changed every few days.

I find that the pods of cabbage seed grown South are tough, and notbrittle, like those grown North, and hence that they are injured butlittle, if any, by seed birds. When the seed-pods have passed whatseedsmen call their "red" stage, they begin to harden; as soon as athird of them are brown, the entire stalk may be cut and hung up in adry, airy place, for a few days, when the seed will be ready for rubbingor threshing out. Different varieties should be raised far apart toinsure purity; and cabbage seed had better not be raised in the vicinityof turnip seed. There is some difference of opinion as to the effect ofgrowing these near each other; where the two vegetables blossom at thesame time, I should fear an admixture. When the care requisite to selectgood seed stock, and the trouble, and, often, great loss, in keeping itover winter, planting it in isolated locations, protecting it from windand weather, guarding it from injury from birds and other enemies,gathering it, cleaning it, are all considered, few men will find thatthey can afford to raise their own seed, provided they can buy it fromreliable seedsmen.

COOKING CABBAGE, SOUR-KROUT, ETC.

Cabbage when boiled with salt pork, as it is mostly used, is the foodfor strong and healthy digestive powers; but when eaten in its raw

state, served with vinegar and pepper, it is considered one of the mosteasily digested articles of diet. In the process of cooking, even withthe greatest care, a large portion of the sweetness is lost. The lengthof time required to cook cabbage by boiling varies with the quality,those of the best quality requiring about twenty minutes, while othersrequire an hour. In cooking put it into boiling water in which a littlesalt and soda has been sprinkled, which will tend to preserve thenatural green color. It will be well to change the water once. Thepeculiar aroma given out by cabbage when cooking is thought to dependsomewhat on the manner in which it is grown; those having been raisedwith the least rank manure having the least. I think this is one of thewhims of the community. By using some varieties of boilers all steam iscarried into the fire, and there is no smell in the house.

To _Pickle_, select hard heads, quarter them, soak in salt and waterfour or five days, then drain and treat as for other pickles, withvinegar spiced to suit.

For _Cold Slaw_, select hard heads, halve and then slice up these halvesexceedingly fine. Lay these in a deep dish, and pour over vinegar thathas been raised to the boiling point in which has been mixed a littlepepper and salt.

_Sour-Krout._ Take large, hard-headed drumheads, halve, and cut veryfine; then pack in a clean, tight barrel, beginning with a sprinkling ofsalt, and following with a layer of cabbage, and thus alternating untilthe barrel is filled. Now compact the mass as much as possible bypounding, after which put on a well-fitting cover resting on thecabbage, and lay heavy weights or a stone on this. When fermented it isready for use. To prepare for the table fry in butter or fat.

The outer green leaves of cabbages are sometimes used to line a brass orcopper kettle in which pickles are made in the belief that the vinegarextracts the coloring substance (chlorophyl) in the leaves, and thecucumbers absorbing this acquire a rich green color. Be not deceived bythis transparent cheat, O simple housewife! the coloring matter comesalmost wholly from the copper or brass behind those leaves; and, insteadof an innocent vegetable pigment, your green cucumbers are dyed with thepoisonous carbonate of copper.

CABBAGES UNDER GLASS.

The very early cabbages usually bringing high prices, the enterprisingmarket gardener either winters the young plants under glass or starts

them there, planting the seed under its protecting shelter long beforethe cold of winter is passed. When the design is to winter over fallgrown plants, the seed are planted in the open ground about the middleof September, and at about the last of October they are ready to go intothe cold frames, as such are called that depend wholly on the sun forheat. Select those having short stumps and transplant into the frames,about an inch and a half by two inches apart, setting them deep in thesoil up to the lower leaves, shading them with a straw mat, or the like,for a few days, after which let them remain without any glass over themuntil the frost is severe enough to begin to freeze the ground, thenplace over the sashes; but bear in mind that the object is not topromote growth, but, as nearly as possible, to keep them in a dormantstate, to keep them so cold that they will not grow, and justsufficiently protected to prevent injury from freezing. With this objectin view the sashes must be raised whenever the temperature is abovefreezing, and this process will so harden the plants that they willreceive no serious injury though the ground under the sash should freezetwo inches deep; cabbage plants will stand a temperature of fifteen totwenty degrees below the freezing point. A covering of snow on the sashwill do no harm, if it does not last longer than a week or ten days, inwhich case it must be removed. There is some danger to be feared fromground mice, who, when everything else is locked up by the frost, willinstinctively take to the sash, and there cause much destruction amongthe plants unless these are occasionally examined. When March opensremove the sash when the temperature will allow, replacing it when theweather is unseasonably cold, particularly at night. The plants may bebrought still farther forward by transferring them from the hot-bed whentwo or three inches high to cold frames, having first somewhat hardenedthem. When so transferred plant them about an inch apart, and shieldfrom the sun for two or three days. After this they may be treated as incold frames. The transfer tends to keep them stocky, increases thefibrous roots and makes the plants hardier. As the month advances it maybe left entirely off, and about the first of April the plants may be setout in the open field, pressing fine earth firmly around the roots.

When cabbages are raised in hot-beds the seed, in the latitude ofBoston, should be planted on the first of March; in that of New York,about a fortnight earlier. When two or three inches high, which will bein three or four weeks, they should be thinned to about four or less toan inch in the row. They should now be well hardened by partly drawingoff the sashes in the warm part of the day, and covering at night; asthe season advances remove the sashes entirely by day, covering only atnight. By about the middle of April the plants will be ready for theopen ground.

When raised in cold frames in the spring, the seed should be planted

about the first of April, mats being used to retain by night the solarheat accumulated during the day. As the season advances the same processof hardening will be necessary as with those raised in hot-beds.

COLD FRAME AND HOT-BED.

To carry on hot-beds on a large scale successfully is almost an art initself, and for fuller details I will refer my readers to works ongardening. Early plants, in a small way, may be raised in flower pots orboxes in a warm kitchen window. It is best, if practicable, to have butone plant in each pot, that they may grow short and stocky. If the seedare not planted earlier than April, for out-of-door cultivation, a coldframe will answer.

For a cold frame select the locality in the fall, choosing a warmlocation on a southern slope, protected by a fence or building on thenorth and north-west. Set posts in the ground, nail two boards to theseparallel to each other, one about a foot in height, and the othertowards the south about four inches narrower; this will give the sashesresting on them the right slope to shed the rain and receive as muchheat as possible from the sun. Have these boards at a distance apartequal to the length of the sash, which may be any common window sash fora small bed, while three and a half feet is the length of a commongardener's sash. If common window sash is used cut channels in thecross-bars to let the water run off. Dig the ground thoroughly (it isbest to cover it in the fall with litter, to keep the frost out) andrake out all stones or clods; then slide in the sash and let it remainclosed for three or four days, that the soil may be warmed by the sun'srays. The two end boards and the bottom board should rise as high as thesash, to prevent the heat escaping, and the bottom board of a smallframe should have a strip nailed inside to rest the sash on. Next rakein, thoroughly, guano, or phosphate, or finely pulverized hen manure,and plant in rows four to six inches apart. As the season advances raisethe sashes an inch or two, in the middle of the day, and water freely,at evening, with water that is nearly of the temperature of the earth inthe frame. As the heat of the season increases whitewash the glass, andkeep them more and more open until just before the plants are set inopen ground, then allow the glass to remain entirely off, both day andnight, unless there should be a cold rain. This will harden them so thatthey will not be apt to be injured by the cabbage beetle, as well aschilled and put back by the change. Should the plants be getting toolarge before the season for transplanting, they should be checked byroot pruning,--drawing a sharp knife within a couple of inches of the

stalk. If it is desirable still further to check their growth, or hardenthem, transplant into another cold frame, allowing each plant double thedistance it before occupied.

The structure and management of a hot-bed is much the same as that of acold frame, with the exception that the sashes are usually longer andthe back and front somewhat higher; being started earlier the requisitetemperature has to be kept up by artificial means, fermenting manurebeing relied upon for the purpose; and the loss of this heat has to bechecked more carefully by straw matting, and, in the far North, byshutters also. In constructing it, horse-manure, with plenty of litter,and about a quarter its bulk in leaves, if attainable, all having beenwell mixed together, is thrown into a pile, and left for a few daysuntil steam escapes, when the mass is again thrown over and left for twoor three days more, after which it is thrown into the pit (or it may beplaced directly on the surface) which is lined with boards, fromeighteen inches to two feet in depth, when it is beaten down with a forkand trodden well together. The sashes are now put on and kept thereuntil heat is developed. The first intense heat must be allowed to passoff, which will be in about three days after the high temperature isreached. Now throw on six or eight inches of fine soil, in which mixwell rotted manure, free from all straw, or rake in, thoroughly,superphosphate, or guano, at the rate of two thousand pounds to theacre, and plant the seed as in cold frame. Harden the plants as directedin preceding paragraph.

CAULIFLOWER, BROCCOLI, BRUSSELS-SPROUTS, KALE, AND SEA-KALE.

My treatise on the cabbage would hardly be complete without someallusion to such prominent members of the Brassica family as thecauliflower, broccoli, brussels-sprouts, and kale.

~Cauliflower.~ Wrote the great Dr. Johnson: "Of all the flowers of thegarden, give me the cauliflower." Whether from this we are to infer thesurpassing excellence of this member of the Brassica family, or that thedistinguished lexicographer meant emphatically to state his preferenceof utility to beauty (perhaps our own Ben. Franklin took a leaf fromhim), each reader must be his own judge; but be that as it may, itremains true, beyond all controversy, that the cauliflower, in toothsomeexcellence, stands at the head of the great family of which it is amember. To be successful, and raise choice cauliflowers, is the heightof the ambition of the market gardener; and, with all his experience,and with every facility at hand, he does not expect full success oftener

than three years in four. The cauliflower, like the strawberry, isexceedingly sensitive to the presence or absence of sufficient water,and success or failure with the crop may turn on its having a fullsupply from the time they are half grown. The finest specimens raised inEurope are grown in beds, which are kept well watered from the supplywhich runs between them; and the most successful growers in the countryirrigate their crops during periods of drouth. Cauliflowers do best ondeep, rich, rather moist soils. In the way of food, they want the verybest, and plenty of it at that. The successful competitor, who won thefirst prize at the great Bay State Fair, to the disgusted surprise of agrower justly famous for his almost uniform success in winning thelaurels, whispered in my ear his secret: "R. manures very heavily in thespring for his crop. I manure very heavily both fall and spring." Inmanuring, therefore, do as well by them as by your heaviest crop oflarge drumhead cabbage, using rich and well-rotted manure, broadcast,with dissolved bone or ashes, or both, in the drill. Plough deep, andwork the land very thoroughly, two ploughings, with a harrowing between,are better than one. Give plenty of room; three by three for the smallersorts, and three by three and a half for the later and larger. They needthe same cultivation, and, being subject to the same diseases and injuryfrom insect enemies, need the same protection as their cousins of thecabbage tribe. In raising for the summer market, start in the coldframe, or plant as early as the ground can be worked, that the plantsmay get well started before the dry season, or the crop will be likelyto make such small heads "buttons" as to be practically a failure. Forlate crop, plant seed in the hills where they are to grow, from the 20thof May to the middle of June. The crop ripens somewhat irregularly. Whenthere is danger from frost, the later heads should be pulled and stored,with both roots and leaves, being crowded, standing as they grew, into acold cellar or cold pit, when they will continue growing. As soon as theheads begin to form, they should be protected from sunlight by eitherhalf breaking off the outer leaves and bending them over them, or bygathering these leaves loosely together and confining them loosely byrough pegs, or by tying them together with a wisp of rye-straw.

~Varieties.~ These are almost as numerous as in the cabbage family. Ifind notes on some thirty-five varieties, tested from year to year, inmy experimental grounds. Most of them prove themselves to be but alottery, in this country of dry seasons, though in the moister climateof the European localities, where they are at home, they are a success.

[Illustration]

[Illustration]

The Half-Early Paris, or Demi-Dur, was for years the standard varietyraised in this country, and from this, by selection, favorite local

varieties were obtained; but, of late years, this has been, to a largedegree, superseded by several excellent sorts, of which the Extra-EarlyDwarf Erfurt was, doubtless the parent. Principal among these varietiesare the Snowball, the Sea-Foam, Vick's Ideal, and Berlin Dwarf. All ofthese are early sorts and excellent strains. After testing them side byside, I find that the best strain of the Snowball is not excelled byeither of them. Of the somewhat later ripening sorts, a variety whichoriginated in this country, called the "Long Island Beauty," gives megreat satisfaction, in its reliability for heading, and in the largesize of its heads; this, with the Algerian, as a larger late sort, willgive us a first-class series.

[Illustration]

Cauliflower seed is not raised, as yet, to any large extent in thiscountry, though some successful efforts have recently been made in thisdirection. I have found that there is a remarkable difference betweenvarieties in the quantity of seed they will yield. From one variety Ihave raised as high as sixty pounds of seed from a given number ofplants, while from two others, equally early, having the same number ofplants in each instance, and raised in the same location (an island inthe ocean), with precisely the same treatment in every way, I got, ineach case, less than a tablespoonful of seed, though the heads of someof them grew to the enormous size of sixteen inches in diameter.

A fine cauliflower is the pet achievement of the market gardener. Thegreat aim is not to produce size only, "but the fine, white, creamycolor, compactness, and what is technically called curdy appearance,from its resemblance to the curd of milk in its preparation for cheese.When the flower begins to open, or when it is of a warty or frost-likeappearance, it is less esteemed. It should not be cut in summer above aday before it is used." The cauliflower is served with milk and butter,or it may become a component of soups, or be used as a pickle.

The ~Broccoli~ are closely allied to the cauliflower, the whitevarieties bearing so close a resemblance that one of them, theWalcheren, is by some classed indiscriminately with each. The chiefdistinction between the two is in hardiness, the broccoli being much thehardier.

Of Broccoli over forty varieties are named in foreign catalogues, ofwhich WALCHEREN is one of the very best. KNIGHT'S PROTECTING is anexceedingly hardy dwarf sort. As a rule, the white varieties arepreferred to the purple kinds. Plant and treat as cauliflower.

Of ~Brussels-Sprouts~ (or bud-bearing cabbage) there are but twovarieties, the dwarf and the tall; the tall kind produces more buds,while the dwarf is the hardier. The "sprouts" form on the stalks, andare miniature heads of cabbage from the size of a pea to that of apigeon's egg. They are raised to but a limited extent in this country,but in Europe they are grown on a large scale. The sprouts may be

cooked and served like cabbage, though oftentimes they are treated moreas a delicacy and served with butter or some rich sauce. The FEATHERSTEM SAVOY and DALMENY SPROUTS are considered as hybrids,the one between the brussels-sprouts and Savoy, the other between it andDrumhead Savoy. The soil for brussels-sprouts should not be so rich asfor cabbage, as the object is to grow them small and solid. Give thesame distance apart as for early cabbage, and the same manner ofcultivation. Break off the leaves at the sides a few at a time when thesprouts begin to form and when they are ready to use cut them off with asharp knife.

~Kale.~ Sea-kale, or sea-cabbage, is a native of the sea coast ofEngland, growing in the sand and pebbles of the sea-shore. It is aperennial, perfectly hardy, withstanding the coldest winters of NewEngland. The blossoms, though bearing a general resemblance to those ofother members of the cabbage family, are yet quite unique in appearance,and I think worthy of a place in the flower garden. It is propagatedboth by seed and by cuttings of the roots, having the rows three feetapart, and the plants three feet apart in the rows. It is difficult toget the seeds to vegetate. Plant seed in April and May. The groundshould be richly manured, and deeply and thoroughly worked. It isblanched before using. In cooking it it requires to be very thoroughlyboiled, after which it is served up in melted butter and toasted bread.The sea-kale is highly prized in England; but thus far its cultivationin this country has been very limited.

The ~Borecole~, or common kale, is of the cabbage family, but ischaracterized by not heading like the cabbage or producing eatableflowers like the cauliflower and broccoli. The varieties are verynumerous, some of them growing very large and coarse, suitable only asfood for stock; others are exceedingly finely curled, and excellent fortable use; while others in their color and structure are highlyornamental. They are annual, biennial, and perennial. They do notrequire so strong a soil or such high manuring as other varieties of thecabbage family.

The varieties are almost endless; some of the best in cultivation fortable use are the DWARF SCOTCH, DWARF GREEN CURLED or GERMAN GREENS,TALL GREEN CURLED, PURPLE BORECOLE, and the variegated kales. The crownof the plant is used as greens, or as an ingredient in soups. The kalesare very hardy, and the dwarf varieties, with but little protection, canbe kept in the North well into the winter in the open ground. Plant andcultivate like Savoy cabbage.

The variegated sorts, with their fine curled leaves of a rich purple,green, red, white, or yellow color, are very pleasing in their effects,

and form a striking and attractive feature when planted in clumps in theflower garden, particularly is this so because their extreme hardinessleaves them in full vigor after the cold has destroyed all otherplants--some of the richest colors are developed along the veins of theuppermost leaves after the plant has nearly finished its growth for theseason. The JERSEY COW KALE grows to from three to six feet inheight and yields a great body of green food for stock; have the rowsabout three feet apart, and the plants two to three feet distant in therows. In several instances my customers have written me that this kaleraised for stock feed has given them great satisfaction.

The THOUSAND-HEADED KALE is a tall variety sending out numerousside shoots, whence the name.

* * * * *

SQUASHES:

HOW TO GROW THEM.

PRICE, 30 CENTS, BY MAIL.

This treatise is amply illustrated, and gives full particulars on everypoint, including keeping and marketing the crop.

* * * * *

FERTILIZERS:

WHERE THE MATERIALS COME FROM; HOW TO GET THEM IN THE CHEAPEST FORM; HOWTO MAKE OUR OWN FERTILIZERS.

In this work there will be found many valuable tables, with manysuggestions, and much information on the purchase of materials, thecombining of them, and the use of the fertilizers made from them. Ibelieve it will give a good return to any of my customers, for hisoutlay. The treatise makes a book of 116 pages.

PRICE, BY MAIL, 40 CENTS.

CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS:

_HOW TO GROW THEM_.

A PRACTICAL TREATISE, GIVING FULL DETAILS ON EVERY POINT, INCLUDINGKEEPING AND MARKETING THE CROP.

BY

JAMES J. H. GREGORY, AUTHOR OF WORKS ON SQUASH RAISING, ONION RAISING,ETC., ETC.

BOSTON: CASHMAN, KEATING & CO., PRINTERS, 1889.

* * * * *

ONION RAISING:

WHAT KINDS TO RAISE AND THE WAY TO RAISE THEM.

BY

JAMES J. H. GREGORY, SEED GROWER AND DEALER, MARBLEHEAD, MASS.

This work has been warmly recommended by some of the best authorities inthe country, and has gone through fourteen editions. It gives theminutest details, from selecting the ground and preparing the soil, upto gathering and marketing the crop. Illustrated with thirteenengravings of Onions, Sowing Machines, and Weeding Machines.

~PRICE, BY MAIL, 30 CENTS.~

* * * * *

A NEW TREATISE.

CARROTS, MANGOLD WURTZELS

AND

SUGAR BEETS.

WHAT KIND TO RAISE:

How to Grow Them

AND

How to Feed Them.

This treatise presents, in minutest detail, every step of progress, fromplanting the seed to the matured crop.

BY

JAMES J. H. GREGORY, MARBLEHEAD, MASS.

PRICE, BY MAIL, 30 CENTS.

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Health benefits of cabbage

    By MakG on May 24, 2013(1 votes, average: 5.00 out of 5)

Cabbage (Brassica oleracea) is really a veggie which belongs to the Brassica or even

cruciferous family, that also consists of broccoli, kale, cauliflower as well as brussels

sprouts. This particular veggie can easily develop in almost any kinds of soil yet develops

particularly well within rich soils – a lot more fertile the soil, the quicker the cabbage

develops. Cabbage is probably the earliest veggie plants and is also considered to be

originated from Asia and also the Mediterranean. Right now, cabbage is most likely just

about the most broadly grown plants throughout the world both in exotic as well as

semitropical areas. Roughly 400 types of cabbage around the world different in form (from

round to conical), size (from 4 to 8 inches) as well as color (green, white, red, and purple

leaves). The most typical is definitely the spherical, light green variety.

Cabbage is definitely an affordable as well as adaptable veggie which is simple to find in

almost any grocery store also it provides you with an enormous nutrients and vitamins. This

particular veggie could be consumed cooked or even raw, however it usually included with

soups or even stews. In Germany, cabbage is actually pickle in vinegar as well as offered

as Sauerkraut. Aside from being utilized in number of dishes, Cabbage is additionally offers

numerous health advantages. In reality, cabbage is abundant with numerous nutrients as

well as vitamins just like vitamin A, C & K. All of these are natural anti-oxidants that really

help avoid cancer as well as cardiovascular disease causing free-radicals.

Health benefits of cabbage

Cabbage is yet another excellent source of dietary fiber, supplying almost 15 % of every

day suggested dietary consumption. Fiber is essential to ensure the body’s digestive tract

is working at ideal level. Several positive health advantages of cabbage are as presented

beneath:

1. Prevents Cancer

From acne remedy to decreasing the chance of cancer, cabbage has lots of dietary

advantages. Chemical substances just like indole-3-carbinol as well as sulphoraphane

behave as anti-oxidants, producing cabbage for cancer research important. In reality,

research has shown that these particular anti-cancer qualities might help reduce the

chance of cancer of the breast in females. An additional research implies the lower chance

of lung cancer among those who include cabbage within their daily diet. Glucosinolates

within cabbage might also prevent bladder, colon, as well as prostate cancer. An additional

phytonutrient, particularly in red cabbages, known as anthocyanin polyphenols (this is

exactly what provides red cabbage its radiant color) could also supply anti-inflammatory as

well as anti-cancer qualities. Various other advantages consist of lower calories in

cabbage. Along with 22 calories within raw green cabbage (per cup serving) as well as 28

calories in red cabbage (per cup serving), this veggie offers important minerals and

vitamins, soluble fiber, antioxidant properties and much more. Braising, boiling, steaming,

or even light stir fry or perhaps sauté ways of cooking might help offer all of the anti-cancer

qualities of cabbage without adding to your pounds. In reality the fermentation procedure

for cabbage in recipes just like German sauerkraut may possibly create a higher level of

anti-cancer ingredients.

2. Treat peptic ulcers

Cabbage is probably the best natural treatments for stomach ulcers (known as peptic

ulcers). An investigation in the Stanford University School of Medicine discovered that fresh

cabbage juice is extremely efficient at dealing with peptic ulcers. The anti-ulcer qualities of

cabbage are caused by the high glutamine content within it.

3. Anti-inflammatory properties

Cabbage is great method of obtaining the amino acid glutamine and is also thought to

assist those people who are struggling with any kind of swelling.

4. Boosts immune system

Because of its large quantities of Vitamin C, cabbage assists improve the Defense

mechanisms as well as assist the body combat free-radicals.

5. Prevent cataract risk

Cabbage is additionally loaded with beta-carotene which will help prevent age-related

macular deterioration and stop cataracts.

6. Cabbage for Weight Loss

Cabbage for losing weight is sensible whenever you recognize that this particular low-

calorie, low-fat veggie consists of plenty of nutrition just like vitamins A, B, C and K.

Important minerals within raw cabbage consist of small quantities of calcium, iron as well as

zinc in addition to quite a lot of magnesium, phosphorus as well as potassium. In addition,

consuming cabbage to lose weight guarantees sufficient quantities of dietary fiber, which

supports people, remain satiated for extended. Fiber additionally assures an excellent

digestive system as well as elevated metabolic rate. A single serving consists of between

15 to 22 calories within raw cabbage. Calories within red cabbage may possibly range

between 25 to 28 calories per cup offering. This number can vary dependent on how you

want to cook your cabbage. Whilst raw cabbage diet for weight reduction may possibly

suggest lots of salads as well as uncooked sides, it really is good to cook the cabbage to

break down the cell wall, producing its cabbage nutrient bioavailable. Furthermore, cooking

raw cabbage makes sure that bacteria and germs in fresh produce usually are ruined.

Braised or even boiled cabbage to lose weight might help since you utilize hardly any oil;

however, you don’t have to give up taste to lose weight. Cabbage is an extremely flexible

veggie and perhaps ingested lightly sautéed, stir fried along with other veggies, in soups

and so forth. You have to look out for the spices and also oil.  Do not overcook cabbage

when you perhaps left with limp, unpalatable dish minus its nutritional advantages.

Numerous cabbage diets enable you to stick to a organized guide to weight reduction.

Having said that following a individual vegetable diet (regardless of how much cabbage you

might be permitted to consume) wouldn’t supply you with a wide selection of nutrition

required for the body. Make sure that you take in a sufficient percentage of different types

of veggies, fruits, lean meat, poultry and dairy. Speak to your physician regarding your

particular situation and when a cabbage weight loss program matches your needs.

7. Reduce the risk of Alzheimer’s disease

Reserach has proven that consuming red cabbage may possibly prevent Alzheimer’s

disease. Red cabbage consists of vitamin K as well as anthocyanin, an anti-oxidant to

assist decreases plaque within the brain, therefore might help avoid Alzheimer’s disease.

8. Relieve constipation

The high fiber content within cabbage assists promote the digestive system, and therefore

alleviating bowel problems.

9. Avoid Skin Disorders

Individuals struggling with skin disorders just like acne, eczema or even psoriasis could find

relief along with natural treatments utilizing cabbage. In reality, Greek as well as Roman

soldiers usually used cabbage benefits for the skin. They utilized cabbage leaves to cover

injuries as well as bruises. The anti-oxidants in cabbage might have supplied both cooling

relief as well as fast performing healing qualities. This is exactly what makes cabbage for

acne alleviation such an effective home cure. Numerous people who suffer declare that

boiling the leaves of cabbage within water, chilling it after which using on impacted areas

protects mild acne breakouts difficulties. The vegetable behaves as a cleaning agent for

greasy skin. Cabbage might also consist of anti-bacterial qualities which go deep in the

pores to battle acne-causing germs. Furthermore, ingesting cabbage in your daily diet will

assist you to obtain apparent, glowing skin. Anti-aging qualities of cabbage, consists of

vitamins B and C, that safeguard skin, hair as well as eyes. It may also help to detox the

body, which might assist you to obtain glowing, healthy looking skin. Furthermore, you don’t

have to bother with the calories in cabbage. At 22 calories per cup of raw cabbage, it is just

a excellent weight reduction food. Calories within red cabbage ring in at 28 calories, also it

consists of two times the quantity of effective anti-oxidants as green cabbage. Cabbage for

eczema might also be successful at offering rest from skin irritation as well as redness, the

signs of this skin ailment. Make use of the external leaves of cabbage and be sure that you

simply clean them below cool water completely. Gently pulp the inner side of the leaves to

collapse nutrition as well as release juices. Apply like a wrap on impacted areas for calming

relief. Many people also declare an enormous enhancement within their situation by

consuming an 8-ounce glass of cabbage juice every day. Cabbage for skin psoriasis

perhaps utilized in an identical fashion. Whether you utilize it as a a topical application or

even include it in the form of soup, salad or even regular meals, cabbage for psoriasis may

give a effective herbal treatment.

10. Relieve muscle soreness

Cabbage consists of lactic acid that recognized to assist alleviate muscles tenderness.

11. Mastitis

Mastitis, most often happens in breast feeding women, even though some ladies are

affected from this situation outside of the lactation period too. In mastitis (postpartum), skin

cracks or even skin tissue break down may possibly let entry of bacteria from the mouth of

the breast-feeding baby or even common atmosphere. Since the infection advances,

women are affected from pain within the chest region, inflammation, irritation, redness or

even soreness along with a warm feeling within the infected region. Various other signs and

symptoms consist of fever, bodily tiredness, pain of the breasts as well as lack of ability to

carry on breast-feeding. Cabbage leaves for mastitis offer an efficient herbal treatment in

the form of topical use. The immune improving qualities of raw cabbage leaves whenever

utilized like a wrap or even bandage round the infected breast, may possibly offer calming

relief as well as behave as a remedy for the bacterial infection. You might utilize cleaned as

well as pat dried cabbage leaves around the affected region, when you are relaxing or

perhaps in between feeds. You may also utilize chilled cabbage leaves as cold compress to

empty out the infection. You might carry on nursing despite struggling with mastitis. In

reality, it is very important drain milk through the breasts. While many experts recommend

utilizing cabbage leaves as topical therapy for mastitis, you may even acquire supplemental

advantages of eating cabbage nutrients. Along with a lot less than 22 calories within raw

green cabbage (per cup serving) as well as 28 calories in red cabbage (per cup serving),

this particular veggie is capable of becoming a weight reduction food items, avoiding

cancer and also combating acne.

12. Decrease Cholesterol level

Much less calories within cabbage allow it to be a fantastic option for managing cholesterol

levels or even decreasing the chance of cholesterol levels within people with previous the

problem. Whilst calories in red cabbage might be somewhat greater, people may possibly

include a wide selection of cruciferous veggies just like green and also red cabbage, savoy

cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts and so forth to get all of the nutritional benefits.

Cabbage for cholesterol levels health is especially advantageous in case you cook it via the

steaming method. In case you overcook cabbage simply by boiling it you stand to lose all of

the nutrient value, simultaneously raw cabbage may possibly pose threats because of

germs or even bacteria. To support the nutritional value of cabbage for cholesterol levels,

you might steam it, gently sauté or even stir fry along with other vegetables or perhaps

combine it with your soups or even main course. Cabbage really helps to detox the body as

well as cleanse your digestive system. This further allows much better cholesterol

management.

13. Diabetics

Lower in calories as well as sodium, loaded with soluble fiber along with the lowest

glycemic index, cabbage for diabetes sufferers appears a normal choice in fresh produce.

A minimal glycemic index signifies how quickly or even slow particular foods impact the

blood sugar level. In the matter of both green and also red cabbage, they’re a low glycemic

index food that features an optimistic effect on individuals struggling with diabetic issues.

Apart from, cabbage for diabetes sufferers is important for the vitamins, minerals, amino

acids as well as dietary fiber it offers. Furthermore, for people attempting to sustain weight

reduction, the low calories in cabbage turn it into a pre-requisite in almost any meal.

Calories in red cabbage perhaps somewhat greater than green cabbage, however,

particular nutrients in red cabbage possibly slightly higher too. Red cabbage includes

antioxidants, which might have got anticancer qualities.  Furthermore, Vitamin K in cabbage

for diabetic issues can help elderly people, who require an additional helping of veggies

along with Vitamin K that can help in blood clotting.

14. During Pregnancy

With a considerable availability of important minerals and vitamins, cabbage for expecting

mothers as well as fetus is very important. Low calories in cabbage allow ladies to keep

bodyweight while pregnant. Even calories in red cabbage differ in between 25 to 28

calories per cup offering. This particular low calorie, lower glycemic index food might help

prevent gestational diabetes. A cabbage while pregnant may also be helpful encourages

better digestive health and improves bowel movement in females struggling with

constipation. Dietary fiber within cabbage assists enhances digestion of food as well as

overall metabolic process. Cabbage also includes important foliates, which are essential for

DNA health of the baby.

15. Heart Disease

You may depend on cabbage to supply your coronary heart along with beneficial support

by means of cholesterol decrease. Cabbage gives you cholesterol-lowering advantage

whether it’s raw or even cooked however it is strongly suggested to eat steamed cabbage

because of its greatest cholesterol-lowering effect. Cabbage helps prevent bile from

soaking up fat after the meal, that reduces the entire quantity of cholesterol within the body.

16. Cures Obesity

Cabbage is really a abundant method of obtaining tartronic acid. This particular acid

changes excessive fat and sugar in body of a human. In a way it regulates carbohydrates

as well as fat. Therefore, it might be the very best weight loss agent. Weight reduction,

therefore, becomes just one more health advantage of cabbage.

17. Maintaining process of gastric

Cabbage is probably the very best natural treatments for irritation of the stomach (called

gastric ulcers). A survey at Stanford University School of Medicine discovered that fresh

cabbage juice is incredibly good at dealing with peptic ulcers. Anti-inflammatory qualities of

cabbage are because of a higher content of glutamine within it.

18. Boost energy

Since the vitamin B is digested by the body, you’ll get a natural hit of energy. It’s time for

you to achieve more and revel in life like there’s no tomorrow.

Cabbage is actually super-powerful, and could be equated to the warehouse of nutrition. It

has the capability to do a world of great for the body. You can eat cabbage, regardless of

whether in salads as well as soups; however a simpler method is with juicing.

Cabbage goes excellent along with apple as well as spinach, and also juicing is a superb

method to go through the health advantages of cabbage in targeted form.

19. Relieve muscle soreness

This really is one for you gym-junkies. All of those sore muscles after the heavy workout

could be treated along with cabbage. It does this by providing you a excellent supply of

lactic acid that disinfects the colon as well as stimulates you.

20. Slow aging

Cabbage is packed with vitamin C as well as beta-carotene (originates from vitamin A), that

makes one of many health advantages of cabbage a potential to deal with aging. If you’d

rather appear younger for extended (that is virtually everyone), try to take in a lot more

cabbage.

21. Lower serum cholesterol

The mixture of good as well as bad cholesterol within your body is recognized as serum

cholesterol. Anytime it’s in a higher level, you’re naturally in a greater risk of heart-related

illness. Fortunately, doctors think another of the health advantages of cabbage is its

capability to reduce serum cholesterol.

22. Breast engorgement

Remove the surface layers of cabbage, run it somewhat underneath the rolling pin as well

as cap it within the breasts as near to the skin as you possibly can, to assuage breasts

engorgement. Wear your maternal brassiere within the cabbage and then leave up until the

cabbage leaves die. It is found to be somewhat calming, preferred all-natural as well as

less expensive option over taking drugs.

More about Cabbage

Cabbage is actually a veggie which thrives whenever developed nearly all over the world

and is also abundant with nutrition. Because of this, cabbage is really a preference food

items in numerous underdeveloped nations as well as isused just like the way rice is

utilized. Whilst cabbage just isn’t well-known in america, with the exception of cole slaw,

cabbage needs to be provided much more consideration by individuals who wish to gain a

healthy diet. It should be pointed out that while cabbage is healthy, the other components

of cole slaw turn it into an inadequate food, particularly because of the trans fats utilized in

mayonnaise. There’s a wide selection of typical nutrition present in cabbage with some

rather distinctive ingredients which makes cabbage worth which includes in your weekly

shopping list. Whilst filled with minerals and vitamins, cabbage like most veggies, doesn’t

have fat and just about 15 calories for the large offering.

Cabbage is packed with vitamin A. whilst carrots get top honors for offering this particular

vitamin, there are lots of vegetables and fruit which includes cabbage which have

significant levels. Vitamin A is a crucial vitamin since it is necessary for appropriate

eyesight, particularly night time vision. Vitamin A can also be essential for appropriate skin

health.

History of Cabbage

One of several earliest recognized veggies, the cabbage appears to always have been

along with us.  It grew both East and West, although the earlier cabbage would be a weedy,

loose-leafed plant.  The firm head that we believe today was obviously a later development,

most intently like kale, in which it is associated. It was known as wild cabbage, and is also

still known as sea cabbage from the French. Within the East, pots that contain cabbage

which date back to 4,000 B.C. have been discovered in Shensi province in China.  North

China is among the most unique home of Chinese cabbage.  To the traditional Chinese, it

absolutely was regarded as a ‘cooling’ food within the yin and yang construct.  Cabbage is

preferred for pickling and is also regarded as ts’ai or even appropriate to go over rice. The

pickled cabbage referred to as Kim Chee is really a staple all through Korea. In the western

world, we hear of cabbage very first from Greek fable also it provides for us perception to

the excellent story-telling capabilities of the Greeks.  The simple fact, one recognized to the

Greeks, is always that grape vines, method to obtain wine, usually do not thrive whenever

cultivated near cabbage. The Greeks transformed this particular agricultural knowledge to

myth. along with apologies for abbreviation, the myth told of the god of wine, Dionysus, who

came to Thrace combined with his loyal followers, the Bacchae.  Thrace was the region of

one Lycurgus. Confronted by Dionysus arrival, Lycurgus captured both Dionysus and all

sorts of Bacchae.  To revenge this process, Dionysus had Lycurgus driven mad.  Not in the

right mine, Lycurgus mistook his son for the vine as well as cut his son to pieces.

Understanding what he’d done, Lycurgus wept, and through the tears that fell to the floor

sprang cabbage.

Further proof of cabbage and its particular capabilities are discovered from the tale of

Diogenes, most well-known for his unproductive look for a genuine man.  Diogenes was

handed to eating cabbage like a health benefit. Conversing with a foolish young courtier of

the Hedonist school, one provided to flattery of the rich, Diogenes recommended the young

man, “If you lived in cabbage, you wouldn’t need to flatter the powerful.”  For this, the

courtier responded, “If you flattered the powerful, you wouldn’t need to survive on cabbage.

“   We will never take philosophical sides within this debate, however, we’ll take note that

Diogenes resided to be 90, quite old in almost any age, whilst his Hedonist friend departed

from his earthly pleasures at the age of 40.

In Rome, both Cato and Pliny extolled the virtues of cabbage.  Cato, who resided to be 80,

thought it ought to be consumed raw along with vinegar, certainly a a precursor to

coleslaw.  Pliny had much to say on cabbage.  In his work, Natural History, he describes

cabbage beneath the classification ‘Materia Medica’, concentrating on its therapeutic

characteristics whenever taken internally and whenever utilized like a poultice.

Early Uses of Cabbage

In spite of Greek misconception despite cabbage’s on the shores of the Mediterranean,

cabbage develops very best in cooler environments.  Medieval records that inform us that

cabbage was often discovered bubbling in the cauldron along with whatever meats were

accessible. Although we do not know when the head cabbage produced, we do realize that

the Savoy cabbage was one of the variety of dishes brought to the French by Catherine de

Medici who arrived from Florence in 1533 to wed the heir to the French throne

If language could be our guide, the Dutch could possibly be the originators of coleslaw: kool

signifies cabbage as well as sla means salad.  The borders of Europe have moved over

time, however the cabbage is documented like a well-known veggie in Russia, Germany,

Poland as well as Hungary as you may know them today.  It is really a addition among the

Irish, and one finds it nearly surprising to find out an earlier Irish recipe for colcannon, the

classic potato as well as cabbage dish, created using today’s kale.

Cabbage gives to pickling and one individual preferred uses of cabbage is sauerkraut.  The

Germans additionally made this and also the term “kraut’ derives through the German-

Americans usage of sauerkraut. Choucroute is French sauerkraut, the most common dish

being Choucroute garni a la Alsacienne. The French land referred to as Alsace presently is

owned by France yet features a history which has seen the area tossed backwards and

forwards in between Germany and France. In this region, choucroute just isn’t simply a

garnish for hot dogs and is also made without vinegar.  Choucroute garni needs cleaning

the sauerkraut that in France eliminates a few of the salt, however in the US eliminates

vinegar.  It is not possible to eliminate the vinegar that has soaked in the leaves, as well as

our choucroute garni can’t ever be genuine.

Types of cabbage

Regardless of what type you purchase, search for cabbage heads which feel heavy

because of their size as well as, aside from Napa cabbage, have got firmly packed leaves.

When you do not want injured or even beaten up veggies, you may remove as well as

discard the external leaves, so that they must not be perfect. Listed here are numerous

types of cabbage

1. Spring Cabbage

Spring cabbages are generally planted in July and August being

grown in September and October to overwinter and be collected from late February right

through to the start of June. In breezy locations, earth up round the stem as well as reduce

the soil together with your foot to guarantee the plants are steady and do not endure root

rock. They have a tendency to be conical in form as well as quite loose leaved, also known

as spring greens or even collards.

 

 

2. Summer Cabbage

Generally these types of are ball headed (drumhead) planted from

mid-February below glass to mid-May being planted in May and June to supply a harvest

from late June to November even though more usually August and September are

definitely the prime cropping months.

Most are usually spherical in form even though the Greyhound as well as Hispi types are

conical just like spring cabbages.

For the initial crop, plant earlier – certainly!

3. Winter Cabbage

The winter cabbages are usually planted at the end of April through

May, being grown in July to supply a harvest from November right through to March. They

are ball or even drum-headed and clearly sturdy.

Several types will store for months, cut the head and take away external loose leaves (bet

you discover a slug!) then store within a cool dark location, ideally on slatted shelves to

allow for air flow. White types are perfect for coleslaw and all sorts of can make sauerkraut.

 

4. Savoy Cabbage

The savoy kind of cabbage is actually a ball head however the

foliage is crinkled instead tan smooth. Seeding as well as planting are similar to winter

cabbages besides the cutting season is commonly just a little broader.

Several faster maturing types are prepared as soon as September plus some holds in the

earth till the start of April many individuals like the consistency of savoy cabbages to

smooth ones.

 

 

5. Red Cabbage

Red cabbage is actually a conventional for pickling however it is

perfect for including colour to the winter salad whenever shredded carefully as well as

cooked it adds colour in addition to taste to the meal.

Develop similar to a summer cabbage, seeding in April, planting in June as well as crop in

September. They’ll hold a little while in the ground or even could be saved for a couple of

months.

 

 

6. Chinese Cabbage

Chinese cabbage, popularly known as Chinese leaves in grocery

stores are definitely the unusual one in the cabbage family. They appear a lot more like a

cos lettuce than the usual cabbage firstly.

The cultivation technique is totally different as compared to traditional cabbage too, they

don’t like root disruption and often could be planted in situ instead of being replanted.

 

 

7. Oxheart Cabbage

Oxheart cabbage is really a headed cabbage along with a smaller

sized relative of the white cabbage, however with a conical shape. Oxheart cabbage is

much more succulent plus more effortlessly digestible and is also ideal for producing

sauerkraut. In contrast to savoy cabbage, red and white cabbage, oxheart cabbage isn’t a

winter vegetable. It is just a fresh summer veggie along with a source of vitamin C

(enhances the manufacture of red blood cells), proteins (the building blocks of the body) as

well as calcium for robust bones.

 

8. White Cabbage

White cabbage is probably the family of headed cabbages. This

really is one of many earliest groups of veggie plants, and also emanates from Asia Minor

and also the Mediterranean. White cabbage, just like red cabbage, was usually extremely

popular in the regions due to its simple and easy , effective farming. Additionally, these

types of cabbages could be kept well, that was necessary for the common individuals till

the middle Twentieth century. Nevertheless, for a long period white cabbage was evidently

not an essential section of people’s diets in East Flanders and West Flanders. Individuals

believed the white cabbage was bland, and also the leaves were usually utilized as food for

animals. From the Nineteenth century, individuals in Germany ingested “Sauerkraut” on the

extensive, that was prepared from large white cabbages received from the Alsace. This

particular dish didn’t become recognized in the regions till the Twentieth century. White

cabbages are just grown in the open.

9. Napa Cabbage

A typical kind of cabbage that delivers a light taste for numerous

salad as well as vegetable dishes. Loaded with Vitamin C, this particular cabbage is mainly

cultivated in Asia and also the United States, primarily in California and Hawaii, exactly

where it could be cultivated year-round. There are two types available to buy, the “chef”

variety and also the “Chihili” variety. The chef variety features a taller, more compact, head

with lots of pale green-colored leaves. This particular variety can also be found titled “Tokyo

Giant”, “Tropical Pride”, or even “wintertime”.

 

10. Brussels Sprouts

A vegetable along with tiny, lustrous, compact buds which is

spherical as well as green and is also generally not more than 2-inches in diameter. It

seems as well as tastes just like a small cabbage. It really is titled after their location of

origins, Brussels, Belgium. Normally the smaller sprouts are the best flavored ones.

 

 

 

11. Green Cabbage

Basic. Solid. Small. Long-lasting. Green cabbage is definitely the

Toyota (or Honda!) of cabbages. Utilize it in salads as well as slaw  stir-fry it, or even long-

cook it to bring out its important sweet nature. Search for heads which feel heavy because

of their size (which could vary from softball to just about basketball size), along with tightly

crammed, moist looking leaves. The queen of slaw  green cabbage can endure even

largest, creamiest, or even spiciest of dressings.

 

 

12. Bok Choy

Bok Choy (and its particular youthful buddy, baby Bok Choy) has

unique leaves growing from the central stalk. It seems a fair amount just like Swiss chard

however with pale green stalks and leaves. It features a mild yet vibrant cabbage-y flavor.

Bok Choy is frequently utilized in stir-frys, but braising also brings about its fairly sweet

taste. Baby bok choy could be cooked entire, if you want, yet all bok choy is probably at its

best as soon as the leaves are divided as well as cooked loose.

 

 

13. Earliana Cabbage

Heads typical 5 inches across as well as weigh about 2 pounds,

great taste, completely ready within 2 months right after re-planting, mild green outside as

well as creamy white on the inside.

 

 

 

 

14. Orient Express Cabbage

This particular Chinese cabbage variety develops in 45 days from

seed; little heads average 1 1/2 pounds, thick center along with dark green external leaves,

peppery as well as fairly sweet flavor, and great crisp consistency.

 

 

 

15. King Slaw Cabbage

This huge variety averages 15 pounds, completely ready in 105

days from seed, big blue/green outer leaves, rich and creamy white heart is thick, light

taste.

 

 

 

 

16. Salad Delight Cabbage

This specific red cabbage develops in 50 days soon after re-

planting, heads are maroon colored as well as average 3 pounds, and inside is thick and

nearly purple in color along with unique white ribs all through, sweet as well as peppery

taste.

 

 

 

17. Early Flat Dutch Cabbage

 This particular variety attributes light green outer leaves along with

a creamy white center, heads average 8 pounds, completely ready in 80 days just after re-

planting, dense heads tend to be more flat as compared to some other types.

 

 

 

18. Early Jersey Wakefield Cabbage

This particular variety develops in 70 days soon after re-planting,

heads average 3 pounds, dark green outer leaves along with a light colored center, head is

nearly cone shaped as well as dense featuring a sugary taste, holds well for a few weeks

within the plant soon after maturation.

 

 

 

19. Golden Cross Cabbage

This kind of cabbage variety develops in 45 days just after re-

planting, little green heads average 2 pounds and therefore are about the dimensions of a

softball, moderate green outer leaves along with a creamy white center, heads are limited

as well as well-formed, fairly sweet taste.

 

 

 

20. Stone head Cabbage

This particular variety features extremely dense heads, light green

external leaves as well as creamy white center, holds well on plant for a few weeks, circular

heads average 3 1/2 pounds, develops in 50 days after re-planting, sweet and also peppery

taste.

 

 

 

21. Pusa Drumhead Cabbage

Late season variety. The heads usually are large, flat, and

relatively loose as well as drum shaped. Every head weighs 3-5 kg. External leaves are

mild green along with notable mid-rib. Demands long winter for the great crop, resistant to

black leg disease. Typical yield is 50-54 t/ha.

 

 

 

22. Golden Acre Cabbage

Early growing variety along with tiny round heads, color of the

leaves is light green externally as well as dark green from inside. Individual head weighing

1-1.5 kg, harvested inside 60-65 days after re-planting. Late harvesting results in heads

cracking. Typical yield is 20-24 t/ha.

 

 

 

23. September Early Cabbage

Mid-season variety well-known within the Nilgiris, head is small, flat-oblong along with

bluish green foliage, weighing 4-6 kg.  Harvested within just 105-110 days immediately

after re-planting. It really is susceptible to black rot disease. Typical yield is 40-50 t/ha. 

This particular variety could be saved in the field once they are ready for harvest and don’t

show breaking.

24. Two Seasons Cabbage

This kind of Chinese variety is oblong in form, averaging 10 inches tall and seven inches

across, thick leafy center is creamy yellow, light green external leaves, develops in

approximately 65 days soon after re-planting, sweet as well as tangy taste.

Nutritional Value & Calories In Cabbage

Amount: 1 Cabbage

Total Weight: 100 g

Nutrients AmountBasic ComponentsAsh 0.8Proteins 1.2 gWater 95.32CaloriesCalories From Carbohydrates 20Calories From Fats 1.3Calories From Proteins 3Total Calories 24CarbohydratesDietary Fiber 2.4 gFructose 1.5 gGlucose 1.7 gMaltose 10 mgSucrose 80 mgSugar 3.2 gTotal Carbohydrates 5.5 gFats & Fatty AcidsMonounsaturated Fat 14 mgOmega-3 Fatty Acids 31 mgOmega-6 Fatty Acids 29 mgPolyunsaturated Fat 64 mgSaturated Fat 27 mgTotal Fat 153 mgVitaminsFolate 52 mcgNiacin 278 mcgPanto Acid 164 mcgRiboflavin 33 mcgThiamin 54 mcgVitamin A 117 IUVitamin C 43 mgVitamin E 150 mcgVitamin K 76 mcgMinerals

Calcium 45 mgCopper 22 mcgFluoride 1 mcgIron 530 mcgMagnesium 14 mgManganese 159 mcgPhosphorus 24 mgPotassium 221 mgSelenium 0.7 mcgSodium 18 mgZinc 180 mcg

Cabbage Selection

Almost all types of cabbage can be obtained year-round in many markets. They weigh in

from one to seven pounds. Cabbage heads needs to be big and compact (not fluffy), heavy

because of their size, along with soft green leaves displaying no proof of damage or even

insect nibbles.

Fresh cabbages have a nice quantity of wrapper (outer) leaves. Greengrocers will display

wilted outer leaves since the cabbage ages. Look into the bottom of the cabbage so that

the foliage is not starting to apart from the stem, a sign of aging.

The Savoy cabbage variety won’t feel as heavy as regular types, since the leaves are much

less firmly furled.

Cabbage Storage

Keep the whole head of cabbage within a plastic bag within the fridge for approximately a

week, a couple weeks when it is fresh from the garden. But don’t forget, the older it will get,

the stronger the taste as well as odor will probably be. The looser-leaved Savoy variety

needs to be utilized in just a couple of days.

Cabbage will miss freshness quickly as soon as the head is sliced, therefore intend on

utilizing it in a day. In case you just have half a head, put the remaining half within a plastic

bag as well as shake a couple of drops of water on the cut side. Close the bag as well as

refrigerate. The cut half need to last an additional few days if this was pretty fresh

whenever you slice it.

To freeze cabbage: Reduce rough shreds as well as blanch for 2 minutes within boiling

water. Eliminate, drain, as well as chill. Pack into air-tight storage containers as well as

freeze as much as one full year. Once thawed out, frozen cabbage will simply work nicely

in cooked applications.

Canned sauerkraut needs to be utilized inside of 6 months. Fresh sauerkraut from the

market needs to be utilized within just 1 week.

Cooked cabbage might be chilled in the protected container for approximately four days.

Consumption Tips

When purchasing cabbage, select the smaller sized variety, they taste far better.

Cabbage is simpler to absorb in the raw fresh type compared to when cooked. The more

time it is cooked, the less digestible it might be. Cabbage sprouts are usually fragile and

simpler to absorb, and in addition they consist of greater amounts of nutrition.

Prevent purchasing precut cabbage which are possibly halved or even shredded. As soon

as the cabbage is slice, it starts to lose its nutritional contents. To save, keep the veggie

refrigerated in the punctured plastic bag to avoid loss in its vitamin C.

Drawbacks of cabbage

Cabbage belongs to the cruciferous veggie family and offers an array of nutrition, which

includes fiber, foliate, calcium, potassium as well as vitamins A, C and K. Cabbage consists

of nutrients which behave as anti-oxidants to tear down chance of particular cancers.

However, consuming large volumes of cabbage may cause disadvantage effects, just like

unwanted gas, looseness of the bowels, medication interactions as well as thyroid

problems.

1. Flatulence

Cabbage consists of substantial amount of raffinose, an indigestible sugar. This particular

sugar is a kind of complicated carbohydrate which goes through your intestines undigested

and may result in unwanted gas. Various other signs and symptoms related to flatulence

that could result after consuming cabbage consist of burping, stomach pain as well as

bloatedness.

2. Diarrhea

Green cabbage consists of 5.8 grams of fiber for each 1-cup serving, reviews Michigan

State University. The insoluble fiber in cabbage boosts the motion of waste within your

digestive system. Consuming too much fiber can easily give rise to the signs of diarrhea or

even obstruct your intestines. Furthermore, people going through cancer therapy might

need to avoid eating cabbage, since this veggie can easily worsen diarrhea frequently

brought on by chemotherapy. Talk to your managing doctor regarding cabbage usage in

case you are going through this kind of therapy.

3. Medication Interaction

Cabbage consists of higher quantities of vitamin K, a vitamin that can help your blood clot.

Consuming too much cabbage can easily restrict blood-thinning medicines, yet a 2-cup

serving of green cabbage should help in offering the preferred quantity of vitamin K without

causing unwanted effects. The suggested every day allocation of vitamin K is actually 120

micrograms for guys and 90 micrograms for women, reviews the University of Maryland

Medical Center. A single serving of green cabbage consists of 53 micrograms of vitamin K,

whilst the same serving of red cabbage consists of 34 micrograms. In accordance with the

University of Michigan Health System, ingesting a regular amount of food items loaded with

vitamin K as well as restricting your vitamin K consumption to the suggested daily allocation

can help in avoiding dangerous interactions. Talk to your medical doctor regarding eating

vitamin K food items in case you are having a blood-thinning medicine.

4. Hypothyroidism

Ingesting higher amount of cabbage may cause thyroid problems, in accordance with Linus

Pauling Institute. Iodine insufficiency in conjunction with higher usage of cabbage, just like

1,000 to 1,500 grams each day, can lead to deficiencies in thyroid hormone. Glucosinolates

are substances that contains sulfur as well as nitrogen which occur generously in cabbage.

Chemical responses with one of these substances may possibly hinder the creation of your

thyroid hormone or even result in the discharge of a particular ion which plays with iodine

usage. Your thyroid gland requires iodine to operate correctly. In case there are contending

procedures limiting iodine quantities, this might bring about the introduction of thyroid

problems. However, cabbage usage separate from iodine insufficiency doesn’t enhance

your chance of hypothyroidism, reports Linus Pauling Institute.

Glory of Enkhuizen

Introduced in 1899 by Sluis & Groot in Enkhuizen, Holland, this cabbage has medium to large round heads. An early, excellent-keeping variety that is a good producer and good for sauerkraut. (90 days)

Planting Instructions:Start seeds for transplants 4 to 6 weeks prior to desired transplanting date. Seedlings need bright artificial light or full sun; in early spring, a cold frame is ideal. Seed should

be covered no deeper than one quarter inch. Grow Early Jersey Wakefield in relatively cool conditions — no more than about 75 degrees Fahrenheit during the day, as cool as 45 degrees at night.

When the young plants have developed 2 to 4 true leaves they are ready to transplant in the garden. Set the plants in the garden about 4 weeks before last frost date in the spring, or about 6 weeks before first frost when fall planting. Space the plant about 24-inches apart. Plants need good rich soil and abundant moisture to produce solid, crisp heads. Some varieties will produce secondary heads when the main head is cut cleanly from the stem just above ground level.

Cabbage : Glory of Enkhuizen

Medium-large round heads, keeps well, great for kraut

Introduced in 1899 by Sluis & Groot in Enkhuizen, Holland. Has medium-large, hard round heads. An early, excellent-keeping variety that is a good producer and good for kraut.

Brassicaceae Brassica oleracea capitata

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov DecThis is an example of the timeline you would see based on your growing conditions. Cabbage: Early

Glory of Enkhuizen

There are many types of cabbage based on the time of harvest. Late cabbage is usually larger, hardier and often good for storage.

In mild winter areas cabbage is a good winter crop, planted in late summer or early autumn. This will mature in late autumn and then stand right through the winter in good condition. Such plants can get very big.

Basics

Ease of GrowingModerate

Grown asBiennial

Days to Maturity90 (Spring/Summer), 90 (Fall/Winter)

Growing HabitBush

HardinessHardy

Cabbages are very hardy and can be frost tolerant.

CropsSpring Transplant, Spring, Fall Transplant, Fall

Growing SeasonShort, Long

Cultivar Type-

Growing ConditionsCold, Cool

Start indoors 8 weeks before last frost, or outdoors March through June. Fast growing or stressed cabbages tend to split and bolt; cutting into the root system will slow growth and prevent splitting. Provide transplants with cutworm shield collars.

Cabbage prefers rich, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0-7.5. Water heavily from planting to head formation, then water moderately to prevent splitting. Cabbage is a hardy crop, grown best in cool spring and fall temperatures.

Outdoor Growing Temp40°F - 75°F

Min Outdoor Soil Temp40°F

If you are growing cabbage in cool weather, they should be planted in a warm sheltered place, with full sun.

Cabbage doesn’t do well in hot weather, as it causes excessive transpiration from the large leaves. It really needs cool weather and short days to head up satisfactorily.

Start Indoors

YesStart Outdoors

YesLight

Sun: min. 6 hours daily (Cold, Cool)

Fun sun or partial shade in warm climates

WaterModerate

Cabbages need a regular water supply to grow well, so keep the soil evenly moist. Heads may split if a heavy rain follows a long dry spell without irrigation.

FeederHeavy

Cabbages are hungry plants and must have rich soil if they are to produce well. They prefer heavy soil with lots of organic matter to retain moisture and lots of available nutrients (especially potassium and phosphorus). They don't need a lot of nitrogen however, as this can lead to sappy growth that isn't very hardy. Early varieties require a higher soil fertility than mid or late-season varieties.

SuitabilityTolerates light frost, Tolerates hard frost

Small Gardens?No

Containers?Yes

Cabbage does quite well in containers, so long as they are big enough. The ideal container for cabbage is at least 8 inches deep and 12 inches in diameter. In order to prevent root damage, make sure your container drains well. This can be done by lining the bottom of your container with a layer of small stones, or by placing holes in the bottom to ensure drainage of excess moisture. Maintain regular watering and keep the soil moist but not soaked. When your cabbage forms a head, gradually decrease watering to keep your heads from splitting.

Attracts beneficial insects?No

ColorGreen

Fruit Size-"

Plant Height8.0-12.0"

Plant Diameter8.0-12.0"

Hardiness Zone2-11

Disease ResistanceTaste Profile

Good for kraut

Cabbage 'Glory of Enkhuizen'

Brassica oleracea (Capitata Group)

10 plantings 1 available for swap 0 wanted 5 stashed

Add to my plant list wish list seed list Buy Cabbage 'Glory of Enkhuizen' on Amazon

Glory of Enkhuizen is part of the Mustard genus and is a Cabbage variety. Its scientific name is Brassica oleracea (Capitata Group) 'Glory of Enkhuizen'. Glory of Enkhuizen is a heirloom (open pollinated) variety. An annual, so it will last but a year in its native climate. Glory of Enkhuizen is known for its Erect habit and growing to a height of approximately 30.0 cm (11.7 inches).

Glory of Enkhuizen Cabbage is normally quite a low maintenance plant and is normally very easy to grow - great for beginner gardeners!

This plant info is provided by the myfolia gardener's wiki. All details about Cabbage 'Glory of Enkhuizen' have been kindly provided by our members.

How to grow Cabbage 'Glory of Enkhuizen'

Full Sun Medium

Enjoys a full sun position in your garden and remember to water moderately. Keep in mind when planting that Glory of Enkhuizen is thought of as hardy, so this plant will survive close to or on freezing temperatures. Glory of Enkhuizen tends to grow best in a soil ph of between 6.0 and 7.5 meaning it does best in weakly acidic soil - weakly alkaline soil.

Growing Glory of Enkhuizen from seed

Try to aim for a seed spacing of at least 3.12 inches (8.0 cm) and sow at a depth of around 0.47 inches (1.2 cm). Soil temperature should be kept higher than 4°C / 39°F to ensure good germination.

By our calculations, you should look at sowing Glory of Enkhuizen about 21 days before your last frost date.

Transplanting Glory of Enkhuizen

Ensure that temperatures are mild and all chance of frost has passed before planting out, as Glory of Enkhuizen is a hardy plant.

By our calculations, you should look at planting out Glory of Enkhuizen about 21 days before your last frost date.

Harvesting Glory of Enkhuizen

Cabbage 'Glory of Enkhuizen' information

Lifecycle The lifecycle that Glory of Enkhuizen exhibits.Annual Category The category for the Glory of Enkhuizen plant.Vegetable

Hardiness Is Glory of Enkhuizen frost hardy?Hardy Mature Height How tall does Glory of Enkhuizen grow?30.0 cm / 11.7 inches

Mature Spread How wide does Glory of Enkhuizen grow?60.0 cm / 1.95 feet pH Range The level of acidity for Glory of Enkhuizen.6.0 - 7.5 Sun How much sunlight does Glory of Enkhuizen need to grow?Full Sun Water Requirements How much water does Glory of Enkhuizen require?

Medium Nitrogen Requirements How much nitrogen fertiliser does Glory of Enkhuizen need?High

Ideal Germination Temperature Range What temperatures does Glory of Enkhuizen need in order to germinate?4°C / 39°F to 29°C / 84°F Growing Temperatures What temperatures are best to grow Glory of Enkhuizen in?Help build our wiki! to Help build our wiki!

Sowing Depth How deep to plant Glory of Enkhuizen?1.2 cm / 0.47 inches Sowing Distance Apart How far apart to sow Glory of Enkhuizen8.0 cm / 3.12

inches Edible? Is Glory of Enkhuizen edible?edible

How long does Glory of Enkhuizen take to grow?

These estimates for how long Cabbage 'Glory of Enkhuizen' takes to sprout, grow and harvest are from real observations from real gardeners, right around the world. Start logging and journaling your observations to participate!

Days to Germination How long does it take Glory of Enkhuizen to germinate? 17 days Average 17 days | Min days | Max days ( 0)

Days to Transplant How long until I can plant out Glory of Enkhuizen?+ 45 days Average 45 days | Min days | Max days ( 0)

Days to Maturity How long until Glory of Enkhuizen is ready for harvest / bloom?+ 60 days Average 60 days | Min days | Max days ( 0)

Total Growing Days How long does it take to grow Glory of Enkhuizen?= 122 days

When should I sow Glory of Enkhuizen?

Folia's when to plant Cabbage 'Glory of Enkhuizen' estimates are relative to your last frost date. Enter your frost dates and we'll calculate your sowing and planting dates for you!

When to sow The number of days to sow Glory of Enkhuizen before or after your last frost date. 21 days before Last Frost Date When to plant out The number of days to

Glory of Enkhuizen before or after your last frost date. 21 days before Last Frost Date

'Sugarloaf' is a Cabbage variety in the Mustard genus with a scientific name of Brassica oleracea (Capitata Group). This variety is an Vegetable that typically grows as an Annual, which is defined as a plant that matures and completes its lifecycle over the course of a single year. Sugarloaf is known for growing to a height of approximately 30.0 cm (11.7 inches).

Sugarloaf Cabbage is normally quite a low maintenance plant and is normally very easy to grow - great for beginner gardeners!

This plant info is provided by the myfolia gardener's wiki. All details about Cabbage 'Sugarloaf' have been kindly provided by our members.

How to grow Cabbage 'Sugarloaf'

Full Sun

+

Medium

Try to plant in a location that enjoys full sun and remember to water moderately. Keep in mind when planting that Sugarloaf is thought of as hardy, so this plant will survive close to or on freezing temperatures. Try to keep the ph of your soil between the range of 6.0 and 7.5 as Sugarloaf likes to be in weakly acidic soil - weakly alkaline soil.

Growing Sugarloaf from seed

Sow 0.47 inches (1.2 cm) deep with a guideline distance of 3.12 inches (8.0 cm). Soil temperature should be kept higher than 4°C / 39°F to ensure good germination.

By our calculations, you should look at sowing Sugarloaf about 45 days before your last frost date.

Transplanting Sugarloaf

Ensure that temperatures are mild and all chance of frost has passed before planting out, as Sugarloaf is a hardy plant.

Harvesting Sugarloaf

Cabbage 'Sugarloaf' information

Lifecycle The lifecycle that Sugarloaf exhibits.Annual Category The category for the Sugarloaf plant.Vegetable

Hardiness Is Sugarloaf frost hardy?Hardy Mature Height How tall does Sugarloaf grow?30.0 cm / 11.7 inches Mature

Spread How wide does Sugarloaf grow?60.0 cm / 1.95 feet pH Range The level of acidity for Sugarloaf.6.0 - 7.5 Sun How much sunlight does Sugarloaf need to grow?Full Sun Water Requirements How much water does Sugarloaf require?Medium

Nitrogen Requirements How much nitrogen fertiliser does Sugarloaf need?High Ideal Germination Temperature Range What temperatures does Sugarloaf need

in order to germinate?4°C / 39°F to 29°C / 84°F Growing Temperatures What temperatures are best to grow Sugarloaf in?Help build our wiki! to Help build our wiki!

Sowing Depth How deep to plant Sugarloaf?1.2 cm / 0.47 inches Sowing Distance Apart How far apart to sow Sugarloaf8.0 cm / 3.12 inches Edible? Is Sugarloaf edible?edible

How long does Sugarloaf take to grow?

These estimates for how long Cabbage 'Sugarloaf' takes to sprout, grow and harvest are from real observations from real gardeners, right around the world. Start logging and journaling your observations to participate!

Days to Germination How long does it take Sugarloaf to germinate? 3 days Average 3 days | Min 3 days | Max 3 days ( 1)

Days to Transplant How long until I can plant out Sugarloaf?+ 45 days Average 45 days | Min days | Max days ( 0)

Days to Maturity How long until Sugarloaf is ready for harvest / bloom?+ 60 days Average 60 days | Min days | Max days ( 0)

Total Growing Days How long does it take to grow Sugarloaf?= 108 days

When should I sow Sugarloaf?

Folia's when to plant Cabbage 'Sugarloaf' estimates are relative to your last frost date. Enter your frost dates and we'll calculate your sowing and planting dates for you!

When to sow The number of days to sow Sugarloaf before or after your last frost date. 45 days before Last Frost Date When to plant out The number of days to Sugarloaf

before or after your last frost date. ?

Sugarloaf is a strongly recommended variety. It has an excellent flavour whether cooked or served cold in salads. The compact, conical heads mature over several weeks.

Storage- Store in an airtight plastic bag in the refrigerator crisper Nutrition-Proper cabbage preparation and cooking methods are essential for receiving its cancer-preventive

effects. Growing cabbages in Kenya for wealth and employment creation (Brassica oleraceae) 23:43 Margaret Gitau Cabbage is one of the most popular vegetables grown for cooking and use in salads in Kenya. The plant’s

scientific name is Brassica oleraceae and it’s propagated from seed. The seed is widely available in seed stores across Kenya. This vegetable is grown under rain fed or irrigated conditions. Cabbage is mainly used for cooking, in vegetable salad and as plant matter for livestock feed.The major market outlet is the local fresh market in rural and urban areas.

Optimum temperature for cabbage growing are 16-20ºC. At temperatures above 25ºC head formation is

reduced. The vegetable has high water requirement during growth period with 500mm rainfall considered optimal. Cabbage can grow in altitude ranging from 800 to over 2,000 metres. Soils should be well drained, high in organic matter, with high water holding capacity with optimum ph of 6-6.5.Cabbage varieties grown depend on market requirements and taste. Sugar loaf, Gloria F1 hybrid and Copenhagen market are considered as sweet tasting varieties. Classification according to the market:-

1.Processing: Large heads, firm white varieties like drumheads 2.Urban centres: medium to small heads e.g. Copenhagen market, golden acre, Sugar loaf and Gloria F1

hybrid. 3.Rural areas: Normally plant medium to large heads e.g. drumheads, Copenhagen market, sugarloaf, golden

acre, Gloria F1 hybrid. 4.Kitchen gardens: Grow varieties with long harvest period e.g. sugar loaf and Copenhagen market. There are many cabbage varieties in Kenya but the most popular are Gloria F1 hybrid, Copenhagen market

and golden acre. The growing of these vegetables should be started by raising seedlings on nursery beds. Plant seeds in raised or sunken beds for wet and hot areas respectively. The dimensions should be 1 meter wide and any desired length. Soil should be well prepared to a fine tilth before planting , then seeds drilled into the nursery bed as cabbage seeds are small.The seed rate is 300gm/ha. Healthy vigorous seedlings should be transplanted when they are 10-12cm high, about 4-6 weeks old. Soils low in organic matter requires 20 tons/ha of manure or 1-2 handfuls of manure per planting hole should be applied. D.A.P fertilizer is recommended @ 200kg/ha at planting. In acidic soils dolomitic limestone should be applied @ 500-1000kg/ha.In acid soils D.A.P fertilizer should be avoided and instead triple superphosphate, double superphosphate or compound N.P.K fertilizer should be used.

The plant should be topdressed with a nitrogen fertilizer at a rate of 100kg/ha when seedlings are established and a second topdressing at a rate of 200kg/ha when the leaves start folding. Have the soil tested for nutrient status where possible before planting. The field should be kept free of weeds during the vegetable’s growing season and mulching conserves moisture. Harvesting starts 1.5-4months after transplanting and lasts 4-6 weeks. The vegetable is ready when heads are firm.3-4 wrapper leaves should be left to cover the head and keep it fresh. Avoid bruising the head as it encourages rotting.

Depending on variety, soil nutrient status, water availability and environmental conditions the vegetable yields

range from 40-100tons/ha.Grade and pack cabbage vegetable heads in crates, arrange with stem end facing the outer wall of the crates for transportation. This will avoid bruising the vegetables head. Cabbage heads can store for sometime at 0ºC and 95% relative humidity. Varieties with good storability grow hard compact

heads e.g. Copenhagen market cabbage variety. Buy your seeds from reputable stores.

Cabbage

The word cabbage is a derivation of the French word caboche, a colloquial term for "head." The cabbage family of which Brussels sprouts, broccoli, cauliflower

and kale are all members is wide and varied. Cabbage itself comes in many forms the shapes can be flat, conical or round, the heads compact or loose, and the leaves curly or plain.

CABBAGE, the oldest and most widely grown vegetable of the Brassica group, belonging to the mustard family. The other members of this group include broccoli, brussel sprouts, cauliflower, chinese cabbage, kale, kohlrabi, and turnips. Cabbage is distinguished from them by the short, petioled leaves and later development of a compact head, by compressed stem and leaves, the latter developing from within but swelling outward. Selective breeding has produced several distinct types of cabbage: early, midseason, and late; green and purple; large and small heads; flat, oval, conical and globular; savoy types; and those with either smooth or crumpled leaves.

Cabbage is a hardy vegetable that grows especially well in fertile soils. There are various shades of green available, as well as red or purple types. Head shape varies from the standard round to flattened or pointed. Most varieties have smooth leaves, but the Savoy types have crinkly textured leaves.

Varieties in Kenya

COPENHAGEN MARKET

Large round heads with remarkable sales appeal. Amongst the most popular for home and market gardening. A very productive strain; small to medium plants with short stems. Matures early and should be harvested immediately as it is prone to cracking if left for too long.

SUGAR LOAF

One of the finest cabbages for African conditions. Has conical shaped head. Crisp and sweet. High market demand. Plants are large and grow well under high rainfall conditions, otherwise they require liberal watering. Early maturing of small to medium quality cabbage.

GLORIA F1 HYBRID

One of the best F1 cabbages on fresh market processing industry. Heavy yielder of top quality heads.

It has blue green color and a thick waxy layer. Has strong rooting and tolerates Black rot diseases. Resistance to heat and bolting. Spacing adjustment results in weights of uniform heads between 2 to 7kg. Has good resistance to splitting and keeps well after harvesting.

PRUKTOR F1 HYBRID

A Medium sized cabbage with round grey green heads of 3 - 4 kgs which mature 70 -80 days transplanting. This variety standsfor a long time without splitting. Extremely good internal quality. Sweet flavour.COPENHAGEN MARKET

Large round heads with remarkable sales appeal. Amongst the most popular for home and market gardening. A very productive strain; small to medium plants with short stems. Matures early and should be harvested immediately as it is prone to cracking if left for too long.

CHIHILI

One of the most important chinese cabbage variety. Uniform and vigorous, producing pale green loaf like heads with pure white core, widely adapted will produce abundance of leaves even where other cabbage varieties will not grow.Slightly pungent in flavour. Easy to grow but prone to bolting below 15 degrees celsius.

Cabbage is easy to grow if you select suitable varieties and practice proper culture and insect management. Always regarded as a good source of vitamins, cabbage recently has been shown to have disease-preventive properties as well.

Spacing

Space plants 12 to 24 inches apart in the row, depending upon the variety and the size of head desired. The closer the spacing, the smaller the heads. Early varieties are usually planted 12 inches apart in all directions. Early varieties produce 1 to 3 pound heads and later varieties produce 4 to 8 pound heads. Sow cabbage seed 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep. Keep the seeds moist and thin or transplant the seedlings to the desired spacing. The plants removed may be transplanted to another row or flat.

Care

Use planting fertilizer when transplanting and side-dress with nitrogen fertilizer when the plants are half grown. Cultivate shallowly to keep down weeds. Ample soil moisture is necessary throughout the growing season to produce good cabbage. Irrigation is especially important to help the young plants withstand the intense sunlight and heat of summer and to supply the developing heads with sufficient water to develop quickly.

Harvesting

Cabbage can be harvested anytime after the heads form. For highest yield, cut the cabbage heads when they are solid (firm to hand pressure) but before they crack or split. When heads are mature, a sudden heavy rain may cause heads to crack or split wide open. The exposed internal tissue soon becomes unusable. Harvest and salvage split heads as soon as possible after they are discovered.

In addition to harvesting the mature heads of the cabbage planted in the spring, you can harvest a later crop of small heads (cabbage sprouts). These sprouts develop on the stumps of the cut stems. Cut as close to the lower surface of the head as possible, leaving the loose outer leaves intact. Buds that grow in the axils of these leaves (the angle between the base of the leaf and the stem above it) later form sprouts. The sprouts develop to 2 to 4 inches in diameter and should be picked when firm. Continue control of cabbage worms and other pests. If this control cannot be maintained, remove and destroy or compost the stumps, because they serve as a breeding ground for diseases and insect pests.

Common problems

Yellow or fusarium wilt is a relatively common disease that causes the leaves of plants to wilt and die. The first sign of the disease is yellowing and browning of the lower leaves. The plants are stunted before wilting occurs. Grow yellows-resistant (YR) or yellows-tolerant varieties. Most modern hybrids have this tolerance or resistance bred into them.

Blackleg and black rot are two diseases that cause severe losses. The plants may be stunted, turn yellow and die. Blackleg is named for the black cankers on the stem. The taproot often rots away. Black rot can be recognized by large, V-shaped, yellow-to-brown areas in the leaves, starting at the leaf edge. The veins turn black. Soft rot usually follows black-rot infection.

Control is essentially the same for blackleg and black rot. Both diseases are spread by seed, transplants and insects. Buy seed that has been hot-water treated to kill the disease organisms. Do not buy transplants that are wilted, are an unhealthy shade of green, or have black spots on the stems or leaves.

When you find diseased plants in the garden, collect the leaves, stems and tops; and burn or dispose of them. Do not put diseased plants into the compost pile. Avoid cultural practices (crowding, overwatering, planting in poorly drained soil and inadequate insect control) that support the disease organisms of black rot and blackleg. If possible, grow black-rot-resistant varieties.

Splitting is caused by the pressure of excessive water taken up after the heads are solid. Cutting the roots (spading on two sides of the plant) or breaking the roots (lifting and twisting the head to one side) can often reduce excessive splitting or bursting, but it also damages the plant and requires that the head be harvested relatively soon.

Cabbage plants "bolt" (form premature seedstalks) when they are exposed to low temperatures (35 to 45 degrees F) for extended periods. Such chilling may happen if plants are set out too early or if an unseasonable blast of cold assaults the garden. After the plants have stems as large as a pencil, they are subject to this "cold conditioning," that initiates the flowering response.

Non-heading varieties of cabbage (similar to flowering kale) have been developed for ornamental uses. They have colorful white, pink or red rosettes of leaves surrounded by green or purple outer leaves. Most colorful during cool fall weather, they should be started in early summer to midsummer and set out with fall and winter plantings of regular, heading varieties of cabbage. Flowering cabbage (and flowering kale) are edible as well as ornamental.

Swellings and distorted roots on stunted, wilted plants may be symptoms of clubroot disease. This disease is caused by a fungus that remains in the garden soils for many years once it becomes established. It is spread by movement of infested soil and infected transplants. Other related cole crops (like broccoli and cauliflower) also may become infected.. If, in fact, you have clubroot in a location, destroy infected plant parts (including the roots) and for at least 4 years avoid planting any member of the cabbage family there, including radishes, turnips and ornamental relatives of cabbage.

Nutritional Value

As with broccoli, cabbage is a cruciferous vegetable and may reduce the risk of some forms of cancer including colorectal cancers. Cabbage is also high in beta-carotene, vitamin C and fiber. Other substantial nutrients in a half cup cooked cabbage include the following.

Nutrition Facts (1/2 cup cooked green cabbage)

Calories 16Dietary fiber 2.9 grams Carbohydrates 3.6 mg Vitamin C 18.2 mg

Sources of cabbage in Kenya.

Cabbage is grown in virtually all areas of Kenya but commercial cabbage comes from Kiambu, Nyeri, Muranga, Nakuru, Nyandarua, Narok.

COMMON STANDARDS OF QUALITY FOR HEADED CABBAGES (European Union)

REGULATION 1591/87 ANNEX 1 AS AMENDED BY REGULATION 888/97

I. DEFINITION OF PRODUCE

This standard applies to headed cabbages grown from varieties (cultivars) of Brassica oleracea L. var. capitata L. (including red cabbages and pointed cabbages) and from Brassica oleracea L. var. bullata DC and var. subauda L. (savoy cabbages), supplied fresh to the consumer, cabbages for industrial processing being excluded.

II. PROVISIONS CONCERNING QUALITY

The purpose of the standard is to define the quality requirements for headed cabbages after preparation and packaging.

A. Minimum requirements:

In all classes, subject to the special provisions for each class and the tolerances allowed, the headed cabbages should be:

- intact,

- fresh in appearance,

- not burst, showing no signs of flower development.

- sound, produce affected by rotting or deterioration such as to make it unfit for consumption is excluded,

- free of bruises and injury,

- free from insects and/or other parasites,

1591/87 - free of damage due to frost,

- clean, practically free of any visible foreign matter,

- free of abnormal external moisture,

- free of any foreign smell and/or taste.

The stem should be cut slightly below the lowest point of leaf growth; the leaves should remain firmly attached, and the cut should be clean.

The condition of the headed cabbages must be such as to enable them:

- to withstand transport and handling, and

- to arrive in satisfactory condition at the place of destination.

B. Classification

Headed cabbages are classified into two classes defined below:

1591/87 COMMON STANDARDS OF QUALITY FOR HEADED CABBAGES (cont'd)

(i) Class I:

Headed cabbages graded into this class should be of good quality and possess all the characteristics typical of the variety. They should be compact, having regard to the species.

Headed cabbages, according to the variety, must have firmly attached leaves. Store headed cabbages may have some of their outer leaves removed.

Green Savoy headed cabbages and early headed cabbages, taking into account their variety, must be properly trimmed, but in doing so a number of leaves may be left for protection.

Green headed cabbages may be slightly frosted.

The following are admitted:

- small cracks in the outer leaves,

- slight bruising and light trimming of the outer leaves, provided that it does not affect the good condition of the produce.

(ii) Class II:

This class includes headed cabbages which do not qualify for inclusion in Class I, but meet the minimum requirements specified above. They may differ from headed cabbages in Class I in the following ways:

- they may have cracks in the outer leaves,

- more of their outer leaves may be removed,

- they may have larger bruises and the outer leaves may be more extensively trimmed,

- they may be less compact.

III. PROVISIONS CONCERNING SIZING

Sizing is determined by the net weight. This must not be less than 350 grams per unit.

Sizing is compulsory for headed cabbages presented in packages. In that case, the weight of the heaviest head in any one package must not be more than double the weight of the lightest head. When the weight of the heaviest head is equal to or less than 2 kilograms the difference between the heaviest and the lightest head may be up to 1 kilogram.

1591/87 COMMON STANDARDS OF QUALITY FOR HEADED CABBAGES (cont'd)

IV. PROVISIONS CONCERNING TOLERANCES

Tolerances in respect of quality and size are allowed in each package or in each lot in the case of headed cabbages transported in bulk for produce not satisfying the requirements for the class indicated.

A. Quality Tolerances

(i) Class I:

10% by number or weight of headed cabbages not satisfying the requirements for the class, but meeting the requirements for Class II or, exceptionally, coming within the tolerances for that class.

(ii) Class II:

10% by number or weight of headed cabbages not satisfying the requirements of the class, or the minimum requirements, but excluding headed cabbages visibly affected by rotting or any other deterioration rendering them unfit for consumption.

B. Size Tolerances

For all classes: 10% by number or weight of headed cabbages not meeting the specified requirements as regards:

- uniformity,

- minimum size.

However, no head may weigh less than 300 grams.

V. PROVISIONS CONCERNING PRESENTATION

A. Uniformity

The contents of each package or lot, if transported in bulk, must contain only headed cabbages of the same origin, variety and quality.

The headed cabbages classed in Class I must be uniform in shape and colour.

The visible part of the contents of the package or lot must be representative of the entire contents.

B. Packaging

The headed cabbages must be packed in such a way as to ensure that they are suitably protected. They may be delivered packed or in bulk.

1591/87 COMMON STANDARDS OF QUALITY FOR HEADED CABBAGES (cont'd)

The materials used inside the package must be clean and of a quality such as to avoid causing any external or internal damage to the produce. The use of materials and particularly of paper or stamps bearing trade specifications is allowed provided that the printing or labelling has been done with a non-toxic ink or glue.

Packages, or lots if the produce is transported in bulk, must be free of all foreign matter.

VI. PROVISIONS CONCERNING MARKING

1. For headed cabbages presented in packages, each package must bear the following particulars in letters grouped on the same side, legibly and indelibly marked and visible from the outside.

A. Identification

888/97 Packer and/or Dispatcher: Name and address or officially issued or accepted code mark. However, in the case where a code mark is used, the reference “Packer and/or dispatcher (or equivalent abbreviations)” has to be indicated in close connection with the code mark.

B. Nature of produce

'White headed cabbages', etc, if the contents are not visible from the outside.

C. Origin of produce

Country of origin and, optionally, district where grown, or national, regional or local place name.

D. Commercial specifications

- Class

- Weight or number of units.

E. Official control mark (optional)

2. For headed cabbages transported in bulk (loaded directly into a vehicle or vehicle compartment), the above particulars must appear on a document accompanying the goods or on a notice placed in a visible position inside the vehicle.

Brassica oleracea L. (headed cabbage)

Protologue

Sp. pl. 2: 667 (1753).FamilyBrassicaceae (Cruciferae) Chromosome number2n = 18Vernacular namesHeaded cabbage, cabbage (En). Chou pommé, chou cabus (Fr). Couve repolho (Po). Kabichi, kabichu (Sw).Origin and geographic distributionHeaded cabbage evolved in north-western Europe during the early Middle Ages from leafy unbranched and thin-stemmed kales, which were introduced in Roman times from the Mediterranean area, where Brassica oleracea and related species occur naturally in coastal areas. Wild types of Brassica oleracea growing along the coasts of western Europe may have contributed to the development. Whereas the primitive types were originally cultivated for medicinal purposes, headed cabbage had become one of the most important vegetables in 16th century Europe. From then onwards headed cabbage was introduced worldwide. In tropical and subtropical areas commercial cultivation is still mostly restricted to the cooler climates of the highlands or to the mild cool seasons at higher latitudes. In Africa headed cabbage is especially common in East Africa and Egypt.UsesHeaded cabbage is usually consumed as a cooked or stir-fried vegetable, sometimes pickled. It is also eaten fresh as an ingredient of coleslaw (a salad made of raw sliced or chopped cabbage) and mixed salads. It may be preserved by steaming and drying or by anaerobic fermentation in brine (sauerkraut).Production and international tradeThe importance of headed cabbage in tropical and subtropical regions, mainly early maturing white headed cabbage with firm and round to flat heads (1–2.5 kg), has increased considerably during recent decades. It can be fairly easily produced in large quantities, transported over great distances without much damage and stored for a few weeks. The area planted with headed cabbage worldwide in 2002 was estimated at about 3 million ha in 124 countries (producing some 62.5 million t): 2 million ha in Asia (of which 1.5 million ha in China), 0.5 million ha in Europe, 180,000 ha in the Americas, and an estimated 100,000 ha in Africa. Reliable data on areas planted annually with headed cabbage are lacking for most countries in tropical Africa. Based on sales of commercial seed, at least 40,000 ha of white headed cabbage is grown in Kenya, Uganda and Tanzania together, 10,000 ha in the region covering Malawi, Zambia and Zimbabwe, 4000 ha in Ethiopia and 3000 ha in Cameroon. Almost all white headed cabbage is produced for local urban markets. Mozambique imports considerable quantities of headed cabbage from South Africa and until recently did so also from Zimbabwe.PropertiesThe nutritional composition of white headed cabbage per 100 g edible portion (i.e. 77% of the product as purchased) is: water 90.1 g, energy 109 kJ (26 kcal), protein 1.7 g, fat 0.4 g, carbohydrate 4.1 g, dietary fibre 2.9 g, Ca 52 mg, Mg 8 mg, P 41 mg, Fe 0.7 mg, Zn 0.3 mg, carotene 385 μg, thiamin 0.15 mg, riboflavin 0.02 mg, niacin 0.5 mg, folate 75 μg, ascorbic acid 49 mg (Holland, B., Unwin, I.D. & Buss, D.H., 1991).All Brassica crops contain glucosinolates, which in crushed leaves are hydrolyzed by the enzyme myrosinase to mostly bitter-tasting thiocyanates and volatile isothiocyanates; these compounds have antimicrobial and anticarcinogenic properties.

In headed cabbage glucosinolate content is rather low (100 mg per 100 g) as a result of centuries of selection against bitter-tasting plants. In spite of its ancestry, headed cabbage does not seem to have medicinal applications.DescriptionErect, glabrous, biennial herb up to 60 cm tall at the mature vegetative stage, up to 200 cm when flowering, with unbranched stem up to 30 cm long, gradually thickening upwards; root system strongly branched. Leaves alternate but closely arranged, sessile, basal leaves forming a rosette, upper leaves in a compact flattened globose to ellipsoid head up to 30 cm in diameter, usually simple; stipules absent; blade ovate to obovate or almost circular, up to 35 cm × 30 cm, undulate or irregularly incised to almost entire, coated with a layer of wax, whitish to pale green with whitish veins (white headed cabbage), red-purple (red headed cabbage), or green to yellow-green and puckered (savoy headed cabbage). Inflorescence a terminal paniculate raceme up to 100 cm long. Flowers bisexual, regular, 4-merous; pedicel up to 2 cm long, ascending; sepals oblong, c. 1 cm long, erect; petals obovate, 1.5–2.5 cm long, clawed, pale to bright yellow or whitish; stamens 6; ovary superior, cylindrical, 2-celled, stigma globose. Fruit a linear silique 5–10 cm × c. 5 mm, with a tapering beak 5–15 mm long, dehiscent, up to 30 -seeded. Seeds globose, 2–4 mm in diameter, finely reticulate, brown. Seedling with epigeal germination, with a taproot and lateral roots; hypocotyl 3–5 cm long, epicotyl absent; cotyledons with petiole 1–2 cm long, blade cordate, 1–1.5 cm long, cuneate at base, notched at apex.Other botanical informationHeaded cabbage has been classified as convar. capitata (L.) Alef., which has been subdivided in var. capitata L. comprising white headed cabbage (with smooth white to green leaves) and red headed cabbage (with red leaves), and var. sabauda L. comprising savoy headed cabbage (with curly green leaves). These 3 types of headed cabbage can best be considered as cultivar-groups and as such have been called White Headed Cabbage Group, Red Headed Cabbage Group and Savoy Headed Cabbage Group. However, a formal distinction into these groups at world level is often considered superfluous and confusing, although at a local level it may be relevant.Hundreds of cultivars of headed cabbage are grown worldwide. In the market gardens of tropical regions early-maturing compact and round- or flat-headed F1 hybrids of white headed cabbage are increasingly replacing the open-pollinated cultivars such as ‘Golden Acre’, ‘Copenhagen Market’, ‘Glory of Enkhuizen’, the flat-headed ‘Drumhead’ and the pointed ‘Sugarloaf’. Examples of F1 hybrid cultivars are ‘Fresco’, ‘Gloria’ (= ‘Green Boy’), ‘Green Coronet’, ‘KK Cross’, ‘KY Cross’ and ‘Hercules’. White headed cabbage hybrids of Japanese and Taiwanese origin in particular often are early maturing and have heat tolerance. Technisem markets several cultivars suitable for tropical lowland areas (e.g. coastal areas near Dakar and Abidjan) including ‘KK Cross’, ‘Fabula’, ‘Rustica’ and ‘Sahel’, which can be harvested 60–80 days after planting, and the very early (45–55 days) but smaller-headed ‘Quick Start’ and ‘Bali’. All these cultivars are Xanthomonas resistant; ‘Fabula’, ‘Rustica’ and ‘Sahel’ are Fusarium resistant too.Red headed cabbage and savoy headed cabbage are of economic importance mainly in Europe and America, but not common in tropical regions. Examples of Taiwanese cultivars of red cabbage are ‘Scarlet’ and ‘Sunny Side’. The Technisem red headed cabbage cultivar ‘Red Ball’ is heat and Xanthomonas tolerant.Growth and developmentSeeds germinate within 3–6 days and seedlings have 4 true leaves 4–5 weeks after sowing at 15–20°C average daily temperatures. The first 7–15 leaves expand and

unfold to form a rosette, commonly called the frame. Subsequent leaves only partly unfold, forming the shell of the head; the growing point increases in size, the stem thickens and the head is filled out with fleshy leaves. The head is solid and ready for harvesting 80–120 days after germination, depending on genotype and climate.Most headed cabbage types require 6–8 weeks exposure to temperatures below 10°C for flower initiation and bolting. The main stem increases in length rapidly, causing the head to burst, and then develops a branched inflorescence. Flowering starts at the base of the inflorescence, 2–3 months after the first sign of bolting and continues for 4–5 weeks. Sporophytic self-incompatibility (1-locus system with multiple alleles) precludes natural self-fertilization. Insects, especially bees, effect cross -pollination. Seeds are mature 8–10 weeks after anthesis.EcologyHeaded cabbage grows best at average daily temperatures of 15–20°C and a diurnal variation of at least 5°C. In tropical regions these conditions are only met in highlands above 800 m. At temperatures in excess of 25°C young plants still grow well, but subsequent head formation will be retarded. Some Japanese and Taiwanese F1 hybrids are more heat-tolerant, but even these do not perform so well under lowland tropical conditions.Most headed cabbage cultivars are daylength neutral and flower initiation is mainly induced by low temperatures. Half-grown plants can even withstand short spells of frost (–5°C).Soils should be well drained and fertile, having good moisture retaining capacity, high organic matter content and a pH of 6.5–7.5. Because of its shallow root system, headed cabbage needs a regular supply of water throughout the growing season either by rain or irrigation. Evapotranspiration of a fully-grown headed cabbage field can reach 4 mm per day.ManagementHeaded cabbage is often grown in rotation with maize, rice, potato, legumes, tobacco and vegetables (tomato, capsicum pepper, onion, carrot). Soil preparation includes deep digging, mixing with compost or stable manure (20–50 t/ha), followed by fine tillage. Before planting NPK fertilizer is applied and for good vegetative growth a top dressing with N fertilizer is given when head formation starts. Type of fertilizer and quantities depend on soil type, initial nutrient reserves in the soil and yield level. The uptake and removal of nutrients is high. A headed cabbage crop with a yield of 25 t/ha absorbs approximately 100 kg N, 12 kg P and 75 kg K. At least double that quantity is recommended as fertilizer gift. Growing headed cabbage on ridges during the wet season improves drainage. The crop should be kept free of weeds, especially in the first month after transplanting. Mulching (dry grass or straw) is beneficial to growth.Propagation and plantingDry headed cabbage seed (6% moisture content) will remain viable for at least 4–6 years when stored dry at temperatures below 18°C. Freshly harvested seed sometimes gives poor germination. Soaking overnight and rinsing with water overcomes this. After 3–4 months storage dormancy disappears. Seeds are sown on seedbeds, in pots or in trays; young seedlings may require protection from excessive sunshine by light shading. About 300–500 g seed and about 200 m2 of seedbed are required for 1 ha of cabbage. The 1000-seed weight is 3–5 g. Transplanting to the field takes place 4–5 weeks later, when the seedlings have 4–6 true leaves. Plant densities of 30,000–50,000 plants per ha are usually applied and spacing is 40–50 cm × 55–60 cm. Head size can be regulated to some extent by adjusting plant density.Lateral shoots from decapitated stumps can be rooted and transplanted. This method of

vegetative propagation is practised in breeding programmes to maintain selected plants.Diseases and pestsThe most important diseases in tropical areas are: downy mildew (Peronospora parasitica) important mainly at elevations above 1200 m, and grey leaf mould (Alternaria brassicae), both of which can be controlled by fungicides and selection of tolerant cultivars; bacterial soft rot (Erwinia carotovora) under hot and humid conditions; black rot (Xanthomonas campestris pv. campestris), controlled by disease-free seeds and seedlings (some cultivars have a good level of tolerance) and avoidance of overhead irrigation; wire stem (Rhizoctonia solani), inducing damping off and vein and leaf necrosis below the head; club root (Plasmodiophora brassicae) a serious threat also at medium elevations (about 700 m), prevented by wide crop rotation, eradication of cruciferous weeds (alternative hosts of the pathogen), by liming and cultivation on soils with pH >7, and by stimulating antagonistic fungi in the soil (such as Trichoderma and Mortierella spp.). Club root has been spreading fast during the last decades and has become the most detrimental disease in many highland areas. A few cultivars appear to have some tolerance, but high levels of durable resistance to club root are not yet available. Other diseases are: ringspot (Mycosphaerella brassicicola); cabbage yellows (Fusarium oxysporum f.sp. conglutinans), to be controlled by crop rotation and resistant cultivars; cauliflower and turnip mosaic virus, which can be prevented by control of the aphid vectors and by eradicating hosts like wild mustard. Alum dusted on stumps has been found effective in controlling storage rots caused by Erwinia.Important pests include: diamondback moth (Plutella xylostella) for which chemical control is increasingly ineffective because of the quick build -up of resistance to all except neem-based insecticides, whereas biological control with sex pheromones and parasitoids (Diadegma semiclausum, Apanteles plutellae, Diadromus collaris and Oomyzus sokolowski) is promising; leaf webber (Crocidolomia binotalis); web worm (Hellula undalis) particularly in southern Africa. Occasional pests are cut worm (Spodoptera littoralis), flea beetle (Phyllotreta spp.), cabbage butterfly (Pieris spp.) and cabbage aphid (Brevicoryne brassicae). Indian mustard (Brassica juncea (L.) Czern.) may be used as a trap crop for diamondback moth and other pests when planted in rows between headed cabbage; chemical control can then be restricted to the mustard plants. Tomato and onions are good repellent crops for the diamondback moth.HarvestingWell filled-out and solid heads are cut, usually with a few wrapper leaves attached, 2–3 months after transplanting. The period of harvesting is 1–2 weeks, F1 hybrids maturing more uniformly than open-pollinated cultivars. The lateral shoots developing on decapitated stumps are sometimes harvested as a sort of loose-leaved mini cabbage.YieldOpen-pollinated cultivars yield 10–25 t/ha, F1 hybrids 40–60 t/ha under optimum growing conditions. In tropical regions yields are generally highest above 800 m altitude. Seed yields are 200–1000 kg/ha in temperate climates.Handling after harvestCabbage heads can be stored for 7–10 days in a cool (20°C), well-aerated and dark space. Transportation should be in ventilated boxes, net bags or lightweight Hessian sacks. At 1°C and high relative humidity (95–98%) cabbage heads can be kept for 2–3 months.Genetic resourcesWorking and germplasm collections of white cabbage and other Brassica crops are available in several research centres in Europe, Russian Federation, United States, India

and Japan. In Europe a Brassica genebank has been established in cooperation with private companies. A central electronic catalogue of the collections is available at the Centre for Genetic Resources (CGN), Wageningen, Netherlands. Preservation of germplasm from the centres of genetic diversity (Mediterranean region) appears adequate and interspecific crosses within the Brassicaceae family widens the genepool available to breeders.BreedingPresent breeding programmes aim at F1 hybrids based on single crosses between inbred lines. Inbreeding is usually effected by manual bud-pollination or treatment with CO2 (2–10%) after bee pollination to temporarily break the self -incompatibility. Fully homozygous lines are now produced much faster from doubled haploids through microspore culture, a technique perfected for Brassica oleracea in the early 1990s.Main breeding objectives include: head shape and size, internal firmness, leaf configuration and colour, core (= internal stem) length, taste, vitamin C content, earliness, standing ability (delayed splitting of the head at maturity), productivity, heat tolerance, resistance to diseases, pests and tip burn (physiological disorder). F1 hybrid cultivars with good host resistance to cabbage yellows, black rot and downy mildew have been developed. However, efforts to breed for durable resistance to club root have had limited success so far, due to the large genetic variability of the pathogen, the limited sources of resistance and the complex inheritance of host resistance. Headed cabbage cultivars with proven resistance in one region are frequently susceptible elsewhere due to the presence of different pathotypes of Plasmodiophora brassicae.Commercial seed production of F1 hybrids, which was traditionally based on the system of self-incompatibility, is increasingly realized with cytoplasmic male sterility (CMS) in the female lines. The negative effects initially linked to the ‘Ogura’ system of CMS in Brassica oleracea, such as leaf chlorosis at low temperatures, low female fertility and poor insect pollination due to absence of nectar glands in the flowers, have been overcome (e.g. by hybridization with protoplasts, followed by strict selection among regenerated plants).ProspectsThe importance of white headed cabbage will further increase in tropical regions. Heat-tolerant cultivars enable cultivation at lower elevations, but market gardening will continue to prevail in the highlands because of higher yield potential, better head quality and fewer disease and pest problems. Considerable progress is being made with effective methods of integrated pest management in headed cabbage and this may reduce pesticide use. Cultivars resistant to cabbage yellows and black rot are becoming increasingly available. However, club root is spreading fast in areas with intensive market gardening and cultivars with durable resistance will not be available in the medium term. Methods of control by antagonists to the pathogen and cultural methods deserve more attention.The development of DNA markers by plant biotechnology for more precise indirect screening for resistance to diseases and pests, as well as other characteristics, will considerably increase breeding efficiency in headed cabbage. The seeds of Japanese hybrids are still mainly produced by self-incompatibility, but several European and American seed companies are quickly changing over to the CMS system, because of lower seed production costs and better seed quality (no inbreds). A few smaller European seed companies producing ‘biological’ seed for organic farming have refused to adopt CMS in Brassica vegetable seed production.