CraftTechniqueDocumentary,FY2011 35mm,color,34minutes

PresentedbytheAgencyforCulturalA什airs ProducedbyNikkeiVisual lmages, Inc.

Ynzen_T eAI･tofM iko-⑪⑪RIG (〕●

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gikimonoYnzenh6mon

"IsOkasane-urokokamon"

Ynzenisamethodofdyeinginwhichdyeresistsareusedtocreateelaboratepictorialdesigns.YnzentookoffinpopularityafterthetechniqueswereusedtoproduceEOSOCiCwithdesignssimilartothosebeingcreatedbyMIYAZAKIYnzen,whowasapopularfandesignerinKyotoduringtheEdoperiod.Themethodsfbrthisstyleofhand-drawnynzenhadbeenperfectedbythemiddleEdoperiod.Today,thesemethodsarebeingkeptaliveinKyoto,Kanazawa,ToIqro,andahandfulofotherareas.Forhisworkinynzen,MORIGUCHIKunihikowasdeclaredaholderofanlmportantlntangibleCulturalProperbrin2oo7.MORIGUCHIwasborninKyotoandstudiedattheKyotoCib/UniversityofAIts.Upongraduation,withascholarshipfromtheFrenchgovernment,hetraveledtoParistostudyarchitectureandgraphicdesign.Aftercompletinghisstudiesthere,heretumedtoJapan.MORIGUCHIKunihikostartedtogetseriousaboutynzenthefOllowingyear,learningthecraftunderhisfather,MORIGUCHIKak6.WhileKunihikowastrainedinthetraditionalmethods､heusedthemtodevelopauniquestyle-

oneinwhichelementssuchasHowers,snow,andnowingwaterarecomposedofandexpressedingeometricpatterns.Hisinnovativeandmodernsenseofformopenedupnewpossibilitiesinynzen,andhisworkhasearnedplauditsbothnationallyandinternationallv.

MORIGUCHIKunihiko

1941MORIGUCHIKunihikoisborninKyoto.1963UpongraduationfromKyotoCityUniversityofArts,hegoestostudyin

FrancewithascholarshipfromtheFrenchgovernment.1966MORIGUCHIgraduatesfTomEcoleNationaleSup6rieuredesArtsD6coratifS

(Paris).1969MORIGUCHIwinsthe"Commissionel･fbrCulturalAffairsAward"illthe6th

JapanTraditionalTextileArtsExhibition.HewinstheNHKChairman'sAwardinthel6thJapanTraditionalArtCraftsExhibition、

1973MORIGUCHIwinstheAsahiShimbunAwardinthe2othJapanTraditionalArtCraftsExhibition.

1986Hisworkisthesubjectofaone-manshowatGalerieJeanne-BucherinParis.1992MORIGUCHIwinstheMinisterofEducationAwardfbrFineArts.

2001HeisawardedtheMedalofHollol､withPurpleRibbon.

2007MORIGUCHIKunihikoisrecognizedaholderofanlmportantlntangibleCulturalProperW.

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*PrologueJapan'skimonoculturebegantodevelopalongitsownuniquelineswiththecreationofthekosodeintheHeianperiod.ThedyeingtechniquesofynzenwerelaterperfectedduringthemiddleEdoperiodinnroto.Withthesetechniques,fabricscanbedyedinvirtuallyanydesignimaginable.Theynzenstylewasahitwiththepublic,andsoonbecamethelookofthedav.

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産二二三垂器YUzenartistMORIGUCHIKunihiko釧

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YUzenartistMORIGUCHIKunihikoiscarryingonthesetraditional

dyeingtechniques.Forhisworkinynzen,MORIGUCHIwasrecognized

asaholderofanlmportantlntangibleCulturalPropertyin2oo7.Heis

fbrgingnewgroundinynzenwithhisgeometricdesigns,whicharethe

productofaboldimaginationandmasteIyoftraditionaltechniques.

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"Designing,sketching,outlining,backpencilingMORIGUCHIstudieshismassivecollectionofsketchestoworkouthis

newdesign.Heconsidersthesketchingstagethemostimportant,asthesketcheswilldeterminethedesignthrougheachstepofthedyeingprocess.MORIGUCHIdrawstheoutlinesofthedesignonthefabricusingasyntheticbluedyeandcalligraphypen.Thesebluelineswilllaterbewashedaway,leavingnotrace・Someoftheselines､hedoesnotwanttolose.Thesewillbetracedonthereversesideofthefabricwithapencil.

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%ltomenori-oki (outliningwithreliefpaste)Usingatoolsimilartoapastrybag,MORIGUCHIapplieSthinribbonsofgumpasteovertheoutlinesofthedesign.Thisstepisdonetoensurethattheoutlinesofthepatternaresharp; ifitisnotdoneproperly,theoutlineswillbefUzzyandthefabricwillbeuseless.Itisanessentialstepintheynzenprocess.

－－－ー一－－~一_ニーーー~‐

*RemovingthebluedyeOncethestepofito7呪eれO"-Ofiiscomplete,MORIGUCHIspraysthe

fabricwithwatertobegintheprocessofremovingthebluedye.Workingfromthebackofthefabric,heusesabrushtohelperasethebluelines.

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*ApplyingvolatileoilOncethebluelineshavebeenremoved,MORIGUCHIusesatoweltosoakupdyeandwater,andthefabricisallowedtod'y・Hethenbrushes

onavolatileoil,whichhelpsthereliefpastepenetratedeeperintothefabric.

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MORIGUCHIprepares"Qﾉ〃呪,aliquidmadefromsoakedsoybeans,

andmixesin/bmoriseaweed.HewillbrushthegqjiγMontothefabric.Inthenextstep,called"0-S"3/ii,dyeswillbepaintedonbyhand.goj〃Mhelpsensurethatthesedyesgoonevenlyandpenetratewell

intothefabric.Thecolorswillbedeeperasaresult.P

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*Iro-sashi (dye-painting)F‘

MORIGUCHIfillsinthetriangles,paintingwithinthelinesofitOm2"0"paste.Hewantstomakesurethatthecolorspenetratethroughtotheback.Hewillthengooverthesurfacewithaspecialbrush,checkingthatthedyesareevenlyappliedandthatthereisnopooling.

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Aftercompletingthestepof"0-S"/iicomestheprocessof押瓦z呪γれOtO.

MORIGUCHIusesanalum-watersolutiontofixthedyes,thenwashesthefabricinwater.Excessdyesandimpuritiesarewashedawayinpreparationfbrthenextstep,calledji4seino".

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%Fusenori

Inthisstep,thehand-paintedareasarecoveredwithdyeresistsothey

willnotbedyedoverbytheground-coIor・Resistisalsoappliedtoareas

meanttoremainwhite.Finesawdustcalled/iifikoisthensprinkledontotheresist,helpingtoreinfbrcethesurfaceandholdinmoisture.；

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%Makingandapplyingembutaト

Inthenextstep,anothertypeofresistcalledma虎加O"willbeapplied,

butnottoallareas.PapermaskingstencilscalledeWl6Mt"willbeusedtocovertheareasthatarenotmeanttobedecoratedwithmα虎加07i.

MORIGUCHIcarefullyshapestheeWl6Mt", linesthemupwiththepattern,andsticksthemdown.Bydoingthis,heensuresthatthepartsofthepatterndecoratedwithma虎加O"willhaveclearly-definededges.

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%MakinoriMORIGUCHIKak6,Kunihiko'sfather,tookinspirationfromma虎i-e

(lacquerwaresprinkledwithgoldorsilverdust)todevelopthema虎加OγI

techniqueshewoulduseinhisynzenwork.Kunihikotookthosetechniquesandbuiltonthemtodevelopthetechniqueshenowusestocreatehissignaturestyleofynzen.

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AfterMORIGUCHIappliestheP"α虎加O7iandgoesbacktoadjustthe

coveringdensity,hewillgooverthefabriconceadaywithawetbrushinaprocessaimedatensuringthemafm07jisfixedfirmlytothefabric.Thisprocess,called"WniZl&ji-"e",goesonfbrseveraldays.

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器｣i-zome(usingsandogurodyes)＝

Thegroundcolorwillbeblack.ThedyeusedisactuallyaSetofthreedyes,called3aれぱb"M70.Together,theygiveadeepcolor.Thesevegetabledyes,whicharemadeinFrance,produceajet-blackthatMORIGUCHIlikestouseinhiswork.

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%Mizumoto&finishingAftertheboltoffabricisdyedinthegroundcolor, itisbroughttoacraftsmanwhospecializesinWniZ呪押10tOandfinishing.Thefabricis

immersedinwater.ThissoftensthejMse"ol/iandmaf"07iresists,andwashesawavdiltandexcessdve.

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*Sewing

Thetaskofsewingisalsolefttoaseasonedexpert・Workingwiththe

sortsofgeometricdesignsfavoredbyMORIGUCHIpresentsspecialchallengesfbrthetailor,becausetheseamsinthepatternshavetolineupjustright.

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ThecompletedynzenhOmongikimono,entitled"IsOkasane-urokokamon''器

MORIGUCHIaskedfriendHORIKIEriko,a'W"3/iipaperartist,tomodelhisnewlycompletedkimono. Itfeaturesanall-overspecklingofmafmOγi､andthepredominantcolorsareblack,maizeyellowand

white.Andwiththat,anewMORIGUCHIKunihikocreationcomesintotheworld,asheonceagainbreathesnewlifeintotheynzentradition.L

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InCooperationIMithTheNationalMuseumofModernArt,KVoto KYOTONATIONALMUSEUMKYOTOBOTANICALGARDENS

Art,TolqJoSAKAICITYMUSEUMSEIKADOBUNNKOARTMUSEUMChibaCitvMuseumofArt TheNationalmuseumof

HORIKIEriko lchidaBeautySalon FUKUZAWAYoshikazuKOMORITomioYnzenShikaiProductionStaH

Producer:SATOTetsuoDirector:SANOFumio Photography:OKIDaisuke Lighting:FURUYAAtsushiPhotographyAssistant:SUZUKIIchiroAssistantDirector:USHIGOMEMasaoMusic:YAMAZAKIShigeyukiTitles:TSURUOKAAkiiku SoundEffect/Mixing:KADOKURAToruNegativeEditing:KOCHIToshiyukiTiming:MITSUHASHIMasayuki SoundRecording:To]q/oTVcenter Developing:IMAGICANarration: Iande

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