Crimp Versus Crinkle

8/18/2019 Crimp Versus Crinkle

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Crimp Versus CrinkleTomado de:http://www.alpacas.com/AlpacaLibrary/Html/CrimpCrinkle.htm

By Mike Safley

I want to thank Alpacas Magazine for allowing me to extend the discussion of crimp, now that wehave been joined by Eric offman with his recent article entitled, !"urvature# Is it "rimp orSomething Else$! is article takes issue with some of what I had previously reported, and Iwelcome the opportunity to expand on my ideas and to disagree with Eric%s points of view&

Before I turn to the substance of the debate, crimp versus crinkle, I would like to point out somesleight of hand in the structure of Eric%s article& 'irst, I must say that I was disappointed with theeditor of Alpacas Magazine, for allowing Eric to mislead the reader about the content of my articleand to mischaracteri(e certain conclusions from third party research to support his hypothesisabout crinkle& I invite each of you to critically analy(e both of the previous articles and review thenew material which I offer in support of my original hypothesis, that crimp is a positive fleececharacteristic and selection marker&

INC!"L#T# $%T#&

Eric began his article by minimi(ing my account of his bias against crimp& ere is what Eric had tosay#

!%&&& Before we get started on a discussion of curvature in fiber, I%d like to free myself from theanti)crimp role Mike has assigned me& e offers the following *uote from my book, The Complete

Alpaca Book , as evidence of my supposed bad attitude towards crimp#

%&&& uacaya, as a breed, has some amount of curvature in fibers, in other words, crimp or crinkle&In some alpaca show systems, the various types of crimp are assigned different values& Such hair)splitting distinctions between styles of crimp may serve the purpose of identifying differencesbetween individual animals in high)stakes alpaca shows, but the commercial processors in +eruwho move tons of fleeces through their scouring vats based on handle classing with somerecently introduced micron sampling- are not making such distinctions in the fleece used to create

their high)fashion end)products found in the top salons in Milan, +aris, and .eneva &&&%!

/ou will note the three periods before the *uotation mark above& 0he problem with this is that Ericleft out the full *uote that I made of his work, which follows and was included with the above*uote in my article#

"... At the time of this writing, no research institution anywhere in the world has

presented definitive information correlating crimp to other desirable fiber

characteristics in alpacas." 1Emphasis added&2

I think you will agree that including the entire *uote creates a different meaning& Eric%s omission isparticularly problematic when you consider that he was editing his own language in order to rebutmy assertion that he is anti)crimp& 3sing *uotes out of context especially your own- amounts to

not leveling with your audience&

Eric claims he is not anti)crimp, yet the thrust of his article suggests that crinkle is every bit asimportant a fleece characteristic as crimp& 'urthermore, anyone reading the Complete AlpacaBook pages 456)477 and 897 can decide whether they think Mr& offman believes that crimp is animportant selection marker for alpacas& In fairness to Eric, the book was written several years agoand the data that he presented on crimp is simply out of date&

!I&CHA'ACT#'I(ATIN ) '#A'CH CNCL%&IN&

0he tone of Eric%s article is intended to communicate an aura of scientific support for hisconclusions about fiber with crinkle& e *uotes extensively from a study which is entitled, !'iber"haracteristics of 3&S& uacaya :lpacas! that was published in Alpacas Magazine, summer 499;&0he article was authored by :ngus Mc"oll, "hris


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!0he study mentioned above has provided valuable information for new areas of in*uiry anddeveloped expanded types of histograms that will allow breeders to get directly involved in theirown correlations of objective fiber measurement& 0he first version of the article ran in the Summer499; issue of Alpacas Magazine& 0he original article has been revised and is awaiting publication inthe Small Ruminant Research Journal. Here are some conclusions from the study# 1Emphasisadded&2

• !:lpaca, as a species, has low curvature compared to sheep breeds& In alpacas, the range

in curvature in the 3&S& was between =5&; and 54&; deg>mm& This might possiblymean holding alpaca to the same standard as sheep may be counter-productive

if other desired qualities of alpaca fiber are compromised.! 1Emphasis added2

0he problem is that nowhere in the :lpacas Maga(ine article does it make the conclusion# !0hismight possibly mean holding alpaca to the same standard as sheep may be counterproductive ifother desired *ualities of alpaca fiber are compromised&! 0his conclusion was apparently crafted byEric to fit his argument that crimp in alpacas may be something other than a positive trait? it is nota conclusion to be found in the original article&

Even more interesting than Eric%s misleading use of the study%s conclusions and his deceptiverepresentation of his views as those of the authors%, is that he omits certain pieces of information

from the article that directly support the argument I made in the !"ase for "rimp!& ere is whatthe study actually said about curvature#

!0he highest reported r 1correlation2 value is a negative correlation between :'@ 1fineness2 and:" 1curvature and crimp2, i&e&, as fiber becomes coarser, curvature decreases i&e&, crimp fre*uencydeclines&!

:s I said in my article# !0he pathway to finer fiber may be as simple as selecting huacaya withbetter defined, more fre*uent crimp!& In other words, the study cited by Eric offman supports myconclusion&

&A!"L# &I(#

In his article, "urvature# Is it "rimp or Something Else$, Mr& offman is vociferous in his criticism

of the sample si(e of the study that I used in 0he "ase for "rimp to demonstrate the point thathigh crimp fre*uency and curvature are correlated to fineness& 0his study measured one hundredalpacas and Eric said !such a small selective group can hardly be considered definitive in thediscussion of crimp&! I find this statement particularly amusing, since Eric uses single animalhistograms, six of them that he personally selected, to make his points and to refute the study%sconclusions by arguing !uni*ue sample! exceptions to the .rupo Inca study&

In the past, Eric has not been shy about using small samples to make a bigger point in his writing&e often talks about the alpaca mummies, which were discovered by @r& Aane heeler& ere iswhat he has said in an article entitled, !0houghts :bout Evaluating :lpaca 'iber!, publishedin Alpaca World Magazine, spring 499;#

!&&& 0he =999 year old El /aral alpaca mummies 1plural2 with fleeces 1plural2 superior to today%salpacas had crinkle curvature of individual fibres but not in the corrugated, wavy lock of crimp-and no crimp as does the parent species, vicuCa, with its extraordinary fineness and ama(inghandle &&&!

hat Eric did not mention in his reference was that of the thirty)two mummies discovered at El/aral, only four of them were alpaca, and only the finest one of these was tested& I learned thisduring a conversation with @r& heeler in +eru, Aanuary of 4995&- 3sing generali(ations made onthe basis of the one superior fleece did not slow Eric down when his goal was to justify his pethypothesis about crinkle& 'urthermore, his use of the plural form of fleeces and mummies wasmisleading&

But, enough of this *uibbling about sample si(e and incomplete *uotes& 0he real issue raised byEric is, should we be selecting for crinkle or crimp$

C'IN*L#"rinkle is the term that was first applied to alpacas by "ameron olt in the early =669s& It is not astandard textile term, and "ameron used it to describe alpaca fleece at a time when it did not


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exhibit staple crimp& 0he term originated in a cashmere preparation class in =6D9 conducted by"ameron& hile discussing the structure of cashmere fleece, a student said that the !crimp! in theindividual fibers were !like a crinkle!& "rinkle is used as an informal slang term to describecashmere goat fleece which does not organi(e itself into staples&

0he following *uotations are from ikipedia&org on cashmere goats&

"ashmere .oats can be characteri(ed as follows#

!: cashmere goat is one which produces a fine undercoat of any commercially acceptable colorand length& 0his down should be less than =6 microns m- in diameter, crimped 1Emphasis:dded2 as opposed to straight, non)medullated not hollow- and low in luster& "a+r:, "oncerning"ashmere, =6D6 &&&!

!'iber character, or style, refers to the natural crimp of each individual fiber 1Emphasis :dded2and results from the microscopic structure of each fiber& 0he more fre*uent the crimps, the finerthe spun yarn can be and therefore the softer the finished product &&&!

!ery fine fiber, which lacks the re*uisite crimp, should not be categori(ed as *uality cashmere& It

is the crimp of *uality cashmere fiber that allows the fiber to interlock during processing& 0his inturn allows it to be spun into a very fine, usually two)ply yarn, which remains lightweight yetretains the loft tiny air spaces trapped between the individual fibers- that characteri(es *ualitycashmere sweaters&!

0he tenth edition of Textile Terms and e!initions published by the textile institute does not definecrinkle nor does Sheep and Wool Science or the Australian Sheep and Wool "and#ook & In fact, theonly textile definition I could find was online, in the 0extile "onnection


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select for short staple, light fleece weight and abundant guard hair, no matter how fine the fleecemight be&

In his article, Eric makes a point about the importance of having articles !peer reviewed! prior topublication, saying about The Complete Alpaca Book , !0here are five chapters addressing someaspect of fiber, and these focus solely on fiber& :ll of the fiber chapters were peer reviewed&! Ericthen goes on to cite the book repeatedly in his article& hat I would like to know is who peerreviewed his constant use of the word crinkle and crinkly& I have searched for research material on!crinkle! and found none, and I found no peer)reviewed article on the subject& But who knows,someone out there may have a wrinkle on crinkle that both .oogle and I missed&

&*IN: TH# "LAT)'! )' )I+#'

0he drawing you see below was modeled on work by @olling and atts& 0here has been aconsiderable amount of research about skin thickness, follicular density and the organi(ation offiber in the skin and how it affects fleece characteristics& "ameron olt says that !to keep it simplea breeder can determine what is happening below the skin by what is evident above the skin!& Inmy opinion, if you see crinkly fiber that is fluffy and open with a light fleece weight then you willlikely have an animal with randomly organi(ed follicles below the skin like the illustration on theleft below&

$image adapted !rom olling and Watts

0he fleeces that exhibit poor follicle organi(ation will produce light crinkly fleeces, and the wellorgani(ed follicles will produce uniform, fine, heavy cutting, well crimped fleeces&

C'I!"

ere is what I said in my article, 0he "ase for "rimp#

!&&& "rimp in alpacas is a subjective, type trait& 0he first *uestion is whether or not it is positivelycorrelated to any important economic traits& If it is, we should select for it? if not, we should selectagainst crimp or pay no attention to it at all&!

I interviewed


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ere is what :ustralian wool industry expert, @r& +aul Swan had to say about crimp and curvaturein a study done for I0F, Gew @elhi, :pril =66;, by Brims and +eterson, entitled, Measuring 'ibreFpacity and Medullation using F'@: ) 0heory and Experimental Hesults on Mohair#

!&&& 0he evidence linking wool fibre crimp to wool processing efficiency and product attributes isnow une*uivocal& 'ibre crimp is a determinant of both topmaking and spinning efficiency and hasan important role in influencing the mechanical properties of wool fabrics, especially tactileproperties& In an age of increasing specification and product differentiation, a measurement offibre curvature is ideally suited on the role of specifying fibre crimp throughout the wool)processing pipeline& I believe that in the near future the distribution of fibre curvature will jointhose of fibre diameter and length in being the primary fibre dimensions specified in wooltrading &&&!

0he 'ebruary, 4995 :FB:>:HI sponsored 'leece to 'iber convention in :tlanta .eorgia included apresentation by @r& @avid Gotter, which was titled 0he .enetics of Improving :lpaca 'iber+roduction& @r& Gotter pointed out to the audience that !crimp has many positive influences onfabric! and is an indicator of fineness&

Auan +epper of Michell "o& gave a lecture entitled, 0he International Market +lace#


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!"urvature of wool fibres exists in three dimensions, i&e& fibres may be coiled& : definition hasbeen provided 1482 for the "urvature of a wool fibre in 8)dimensional space, which incorporatesboth geometric curvature bending- and torsion twisting- along the fibre length& owever,because most curvature generally occurs on one plane and reflects the absorption of bending tooverall fibre curvature, and assuming negligible contribution from fibre tortion, fibre shape can berepresented as a 4)dimensional !wave)form! as depicted below &&&

&&& 0o a mathematician there is a precise definition of curvature& 0he "urvature, ", of a circle withradius, r, is#

"J=>r &&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&=-!

In the example below, the angle subtended by a =mm length of arc is D9 degrees and theresulting "urvature is D9 degrees>mm& 0he following drawing illustrates how curvature ismeasured&

TH# C''#LATIN ) C'I!" AN )I+#' IA!#T#'

"ameron olt recently shared with me the following test results for =98 white huacaya alpacas&/ou can see that average curvature went up as the micron count went down tested on F'@:=99-&"ameron indicated to me that when researching curvature on the F'@: and laser e*uipment, he

found that the data was interpreted differently& 0he laser on average gave a higher readingcurvature- of approximately =7&; degrees per millimeter&


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0he following graph illustrates a 9&74 correlation between curvature and fineness& :s the average

microns increase from =5 to 85, the average curvature decreases from the 59%s to the 89%s& .raphcourtesy of "ameron olt-

I think it is indisputable# crimp is related to curvature, resistance to compression and fineness&0extile manufactures value all three&


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!0he breeder needs to know that crimp is an important characteristic, and they can earn moremoney from crimped fiber& My garment will be lighter and more valuable& "rimp affects, positively,the entire chain of value&! Aanuary, 4995-

C'I!" V#'&%& C'IN*L#

0he choice is yours ) if you believe crinkle is the best selection marker, then you should select forcrinkle& Fn the other hand, if you believe, as I do, that high fre*uency crimp is a productiveselection marker that suggests fineness, superior fleece weight, uniformity, a lack of guard hairand superior staple length, then you should select for crimp& I suggest that you observe fleeces,both well)crimped with highly defined staples and the crinkly, cotton candy, fluffy ones that Ericwrites about& "ompare them and decide which you think is most productive& It is really thatsimple&

$% &ant to thank Cameron "olt !or his peer re'ie& o! this article.(

#eproduced with permission from!

Alpaca $reeding arm! %orthwest Alpacas# raising suri and huacaya alpacas for sale, alpacainvestment, and alpaca business plans for alpaca breeders and owners worldwide& 'ind moreuseful information at the Alpaca &ibrary&

"opyright K 4998)4995 Gorthwest :lpacas

Crimp Versus arruga

Por Mike Safey

Quiero agradecer alpacas Magazine por lo que me permite extender ladiscusión de engarzado, ahora que hemos sido unidos por ric !o"man consu reciente art#culo titulado, $%a cur&atura'( )s *+ación u otra cosa$ Suart#culo est en desacuerdo con algunos de lo que ha-#a in.ormadoanteriormente, y cele-ro la oportunidad de ampliar mis ideas y no estar deacuerdo con los puntos de &ista de ric/

0ntes de pasar a la sustancia del de-ate, engarzado contra la arruga, megustar#a se1alar algunos +uegos de manos en la estructura del art#culo deric/ n primer lugar, de-o decir que me qued2 decepcionado con el editorde la re&ista alpacas, por permitir que ric inducir a error al lector so-re elcontenido de mi art#culo y caracterizar erróneamente ciertas conclusionesde la in&estigación de terceros para apoyar su hipótesis acerca de la arruga/3n&ito a cada uno de ustedes para analizar cr#ticamente los dos art#culosanteriores y re&isar el nue&o material que presento en apoyo de mihipótesis original, que es una caracter#stica de engarzado &ellón y marcadorde selección positi&a/

http://www.alpacas.com/http://www.alpacas.com/AlpacaLibrary/http://www.alpacas.com/http://www.alpacas.com/AlpacaLibrary/


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C340S 35C6MP%40S

ric comenzó su art#culo de minimizar mi cuenta de su sesgo en contra deengarce/ 0qu# es lo que ric ten#a que decir'

$ 7/// 0ntes de empezar a tra-a+ar en una discusión de cur&atura de la *-ra,me gustar#a li-rarme de la anti8engarce papel Mike me ha asignado/ Seo.rece la siguiente cita de mi li-ro, l li-ro de la alpaca completa, comoe&idencia de mi supuesta mala actitud hacia engarzado'

7/// !uacaya, como una raza, tiene una cierta cantidad de cur&atura en las*-ras, en otras pala-ras, engarzado o arruga/ n algunos sistemas dealpaca demostración, los di&ersos tipos de engarzado se asignan &aloresdi.erentes/ 4ales distinciones quisquillosas entre los estilos de rizado puedenser&ir al propósito de identi*car las di.erencias entre los distintos animalesen altas apuestas espectculos de alpaca, pero los procesadorescomerciales en Per9 que se mue&en toneladas de &ellones a tra&2s de suscu-as de restregar en -ase a classing mango :con un poco recientementeintroducido muestreo micras; no estn haciendo este tipo de distinciones enel &ellón utilizado para crear sus productos *nales de alta costura que seencuentran en los me+ores salones en Miln, Par#s y


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engarce/ Por otra parte, cualquiera que lea las pginas del li-ro de alpacacompletos @AB8@ y DE puede decidir si creen que el Sr/ !o"man cree queengarzado es un marcador de selección importante para alpacas/ Para ser

+ustos con ric, el li-ro .ue escrito hace &arios a1os y los datos que sepresentó en engarzado es simplemente .uera de .echa/

Caracterización errónea de conclusiones de la in&estigación

l tono del art#culo de ric est destinado a comunicar un aura de apoyocient#*co a sus conclusiones acerca de la *-ra con la arruga/ >l citaextensamente de un estudio que lle&a por t#tulo, $Caracter#sticas de la *-rade alpacas !uacaya de stados Fnidos$, que .ue pu-licado en la re&istaalpacas, el &erano de @EEG/ l art#culo .ue escrito por 0ngus McColl, Chris%upton, y Ho- Sto-art/ 0qu# est un e+emplo de cómo ric representa los

resultados'

$l estudio mencionado anteriormente ha proporcionado in.ormación &aliosapara nue&as reas de in&estigación y desarrollado tipos de histogramas quepermitirn a los criadores a in&olucrarse directamente en sus propiascorrelaciones de medición de *-ra o-+eti&o ampliado/ %a primera &ersión delart#culo corrió en la edición de Verano @EEG / alpacas Ie&ista el art#culooriginal ha sido re&isado y est pendiente de pu-licación en la Ie&ista de3n&estigación para peque1os rumiantes stas son algunas conclusiones del

estudio'/ =/ 2n.asis a1adido?

$0lpaca, como especie, tiene poca cur&atura en comparación con lasespecies o&inas/ n alpacas, el rango de la cur&atura en los /FF/ .ue deentre JA,G y A@,G grados K mm/ sto podr#a signi*car posi-lemente lacele-ración de alpaca con el mismo estndar como o&e+as puede sercontraproducente producti&o si se &en comprometidas otras cualidadesdeseadas de la *-ra de alpaca $/ =>n.asis a1adido?

l pro-lema es que ninguna parte del art#culo alpacas Ie&ista )tiene lasiguiente conclusión' $sto posi-lemente podr#a signi*car la cele-ración dealpaca con el mismo estndar como o&e+as puede ser contraproducente sise &en comprometidas otras cualidades deseadas de la *-ra de alpaca/$sta conclusión .ue aparentemente ela-orado por ric para adaptarse a suargumento de que engarzado en alpacas pueden ser algo ms que un rasgopositi&oL no es una conclusión que se encuentran en el art#culo original/

3ncluso ms interesante que el uso enga1oso de ric de las conclusiones delestudio y su representación enga1osa de sus puntos de &ista como los de


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los autores, es que 2l omite ciertas piezas de in.ormación del art#culo queapoyan directamente el argumento que hice en el $Caso de Crimp$ / sto eslo que di+o el estudio en realidad acerca de cur&atura'

$l r =correlación? &alor ms alto reportado una correlación negati&a entre la0N =*nura? y 0C =cur&atura y acanaladura?, es decir, como la *-ra se&uel&e ms gruesa, la cur&atura disminuye, es decir, la disminución de.recuencia de engarzado/$

Como di+e en mi art#culo' $l camino a la *-ra ms *na puede ser tan simplecomo seleccionar huacaya con una me+or de*nido, engarzado ms.recuentes$/ n otras pala-ras, el estudio citado por ric !o"man apoya mi

conclusión/

40M0O6 N %0 MFS4I0

n su art#culo, Cur&atura' )s Crimp o algo ms (, el Sr/ !o"man es&oci.erantes en su cr#tica del tama1o de la muestra del estudio que heusado en el caso de Crimp para demostrar el punto de que la alta .recuenciade engarzado y la cur&atura se correlacionan con *nura/ ste estudio midecien alpacas y ric di+o $un grupo tan peque1o selecti&a no puede

considerarse de*niti&a en la discusión de engarzado/$ ncuentro que estaa*rmación particularmente di&ertido, ya que ric utiliza histogramas deanimales indi&iduales, seis de ellos que seleccionó personalmente, parahacer sus puntos y para re.utar las conclusiones del estudio con elargumento de excepciones $de muestra 9nica$ para el estudio


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%o que ric no mencionó en su re.erencia era la de los treinta y dos momiasdescu-iertas en l aral, sólo cuatro de ellos eran de alpaca, y sólo losme+ores uno de ellos se puso a prue-a/ :sto lo aprend# durante unacon&ersación con el Nr/ heeler en el Per9, nero de @EEA/; l uso degeneralizaciones que se hacen so-re la -ase de un pa1o grueso y sua&e

superior de no retrasar ric a-a+o cuando su o-+eti&o era +usti*car suhipótesis acerca del animal dom2stico de la arruga/ Por otra parte, el uso dela .orma plural de &ellones y momias era enga1osa/

Pero, -asta de esto qui--ling so-re el tama1o de la muestra y citasincompletas/ l &erdadero pro-lema planteado por ric es, en caso de queseleccionar para la arruga o se do-le(

0IIF


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indesea-le //, !uacayas con el tipo de lana de algodón de az9car8como amenudo se dice que tiene la arruga en lugar de rizado /// $

Particularmente me gusta la analog#a de $algodón de az9car como la lana$de ric/ ste s#mil trae a la mente un .orro polar ligero, sua&e y espon+osaque carece de peso y se caracteriza por un &olumen de *-ras $arrugadas$llenos de aire/ stos tipos de &ellón estn a-iertos, la luz y no tienenninguna -arrera para resistir el pol&o/ 5o son muy producti&o y queseleccionar#an contra ellos/

ric parece sugerir que hay que seleccionar para la arruga porque esa es lacaracter#stica exhi-ida por &icu1a, diciendo' $Vicu1a entra en la categor#a

de la arruga/$ s cierto que la &icu1a estn muy -ien, pero tam-i2n tienenmuy poco alimento -sico, pelo de guardia sustancial, y el cizallamientosolamente una o dos li-ras cada dos a1os/ 5o creo que ning9n expertostextiles o cient#*cos de los animales aconse+ar#a a los criadores de alpacapara seleccionar de *-ra corta, el peso del &ellón luz y a-undante pelo deguardia, no importa qu2 tan -ien podr#a ser el &ellón/

n su art#culo, ric hace un punto so-re la importancia de tener art#culos de$re&isión por pares$ antes de su pu-licación, diciendo so-re l li-ro de

alpaca completa, $!ay cinco cap#tulos que a-ordan alg9n aspecto de la*-ra, y 2stos se centran exclusi&amente en *-ra/ 4odo el cap#tulos de *-ra.ueron re&isados por pares $/ ric pasa luego a citar el li-ro &arias &eces ensu art#culo/ %o que me gustar#a sa-er es qui2n Ie&isión por pares a suconstante uso de la pala-ra y de la arruga arrugado/ !e -uscado para elmaterial de in&estigación so-re $arruga$ y no lo encontró, y me encontr2con ning9n art#culo re&isada por expertos en el tema/ Pero qui2n sa-e,alguien por ah# puede tener una arruga en la arruga que tanto


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:3magen adaptada de Nolling y atts

%os &ellones que exhi-en una mala organización del .ol#culo producirn&ellones arrugadas de luz, y los .ol#culos -ien organizados producirnuni.orme, *na, corte pesado, as# &ellones rizadas/

I3U0I

sto es lo que di+e en mi art#culo, 4he Case .or Crimp'

$/// Crimp en alpacas es una su-+eti&a, el tipo de rasgo %a primera preguntaes si es o no se correlaciona positi&amente con los rasgos económicosimportantes Si es as#, hay que seleccionar para elloL// Si no, hay queseleccionar en contra de engarce o no prestar atención a 2l en a-soluto $/

ntre&ist2 a %uis Cha&es en 0requipa no mucho despu2s del art#culo de ricsalió/ %uis se encarga de todos los aspectos del procesamiento de alpacapara


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$/// %a *-ra de lana e&idencia que &incula engarzado a la e*ciencia deprocesamiento de la lana y los atri-utos del producto es ahora inequ#&oca/i-ra de engarce es un determinante de am-os topmaking y la e*ciencia de

girar y tiene un papel importante para infuir en las propiedades mecnicasde los te+idos de lana, especialmente propiedades tctiles/ en una 2poca decreciente especi*cación y di.erenciación de los productos, una medida de lacur&atura de la *-ra es ideal so-re el papel de la especi*cación de la *-raengarzado a lo largo de la tu-er#a de procesamiento de la lana/ creo que enun .uturo próximo la distri-ución de cur&atura de la *-ra se unir a los dedimetro de la *-ra y la longitud en ser las dimensiones de las *-rasprimarias especi*cadas en el comercio de la lana /// $

l .e-rero de @EEA 06H0 K 0I3 patrocinado pa1o grueso y sua&e a lacon&ención de la *-ra en 0tlanta,


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%a cur&atura de la *-ra

$Cur&atura media de las *-ras est relacionado con engarce de .recuencia:cur&atura *-ra aumenta como engarce aumenta la .recuencia; y engarceest directamente relacionada con resistente a la compresión, un -uenindicador de hilo y tela granel o ele&ación ///$

Ne una manera gen2rica, no sólo es engarzado una indicación de la ley, yaque todos los expertos se1alan, pero le da &olumen del hilo y permite a los.a-ricantes textiles para crear prendas de peso ms ligero/ Se requiere dems torcedura de las alpacas, no menos/ Selección de engarzado hace doscosas para los criadores de alpaca' ayuda a identi*car a los animales

superiores y se extiende el uso *nal de la alpaca para incluir g2neros depunto/ sta 9ltima parte es importante porque .a-rica a menudo necesitanpara agregar lana de o&e+a de lana de alpaca engarzado a para crear el&olumen necesario de hilo de te+er/

%uis Cha&es me di+o que


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cur&atura de una *-ra de lana en el espacio de D dimensiones, queincorpora tanto la cur&atura geom2trica :fexión; y la torsión :torsión; a lolargo de la longitud de la *-ra/ Sin em-argo, porque la mayor cur&atura seproduce generalmente en un plano y refe+a la a-sorción de la fexión a lacur&atura general de la *-ra, y suponiendo contri-ución insigni*cante de

distorsión de la *-ra, la .orma de la *-ra puede ser representada como una$.orma de onda$ @8dimensional como se representa a continuación ///

/// Para un matemtico existe una de*nición precisa de cur&atura/ %acur&atura, C, de un c#rculo con radio, r, es'

C X J K r ///////////////////// :J; $

n el siguiente e+emplo, el ngulo su-tendido por una longitud de J mm dearco es de TE grados y la cur&atura resultante es de TE grados K mm/ lsiguiente di-u+o ilustra cómo se mide la cur&atura/

%a correlación de crimpado y dimetro de la *-ra

Cameron !olt recientemente compartió conmigo los siguientes resultadosde la prue-a de JED alpacas !uacaya -lancas/ Se puede &er que lacur&atura media su-ió como el recuento micras -a+ó :pro-ado en 6N0JEE;/Cameron me indicó que cuando la in&estigación de la cur&atura en la 6N0y equipos lser, se encontró con que los datos se interpreta de maneradi.erente/ l lser de media dio una lectura ms alta :cur&atura; deaproximadamente J,G grados por mil#metro/

l siguiente gr*co ilustra una correlación entre E,@ cur&atura y *nura/ 0medida que las micras promedio aumentan de JA a DA, la cur&aturapromedio disminuye a partir de los a1os AE hasta los a1os DE/ :


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Creo que es indiscuti-le' engarzado est relacionada con la cur&atura,resistencia a la compresión y la *nura/ Manu.acturas textiles &alor de lostres/ %uis Cha&es di+o me+or'

$l criador necesita sa-er que engarzado es una caracter#stica importante, yque pueden ganar ms dinero de *-ra rizada/ Mi prenda ser ms ligero yms &aliosa/ Crimp a.ecta, de manera positi&a, toda la cadena de &alor$/:nero de @EEA;

CI3MP VISFS 0IIF

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Crimp Versus Crinkle