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Dhaulagiri (3)

Partial timeline

1981 Yugoslav team reaches 7,950 m after putting up the first route on the true south face of

the mountain, on the right side, connecting with the southeast ridge. They climb in alpine style

but suffer four days of open bivouacs and six days without food before returning. Hironobu

Kamuro of Japan reaches the summit alone, via the normal route.

1982, 13 December - Two members (Akio Koizumi and Wangchu Shelpa) of Japanese team led

by Prof. Jun Arima of the Academic Alpine Club of Hokkaido University reach the summit. By the

world calendar, winter begins December 21, so this was not a winter but a very-late-autumn-

climb. However the climb was done under a winter climbing permit, which the Nepali government

issues for climbs beginning on or after December 1.[12]

1984

Three members of the Czechoslovakian expedition (J. Simon, K. Jakes, J. Stejskal)

climb the west face to the summit. J. Simon died during the descent.

1985 Polish expedition includingJerzy Kukuczkaclimbs the normal route in winter, reaching

the summit on January 21.

1986 A mostly Polish expedition puts up a second south face route, on the left side of the face

connecting with the southwest ridge route. They go above 7,500 m but do not reach the summit.

1988 Y. Moiseev and K. Valiev, in cooperation with a Slovak, Z. Demjan, succeed in climbing

the southwest buttress. This 3,000-metre ascent, with difficult technical climbing at 6,800

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7,300 m, was acknowledged as the year's best achievement at the UIAA Expedition

Commission Conference.[citation needed]

1990 Dhaulagiri becomes the first mountain higher than 8,000 m to be climbed by a

Lithuanian.Dainius Makauskasdisappears on the descent.

1993 Russian-British team puts up the direct north face route.

1998 French climberChantal Mauduitdies in an avalanche. On May 1 the Greek climber

Nikolaos Papandreou is killed falling in a gorge. On October 2, the Greek Babis Tsoupras

reaches the summit but does not return. The bodies of the Greek climbers were not found .[13][14]

1999 On October 24, British climberGinette Harrisondies in an avalanche on Dhaulagiri. Days

later, SlovenianTomaz Humarclimbs the south face solo but does not reach the summit. His

ascent ended at 7,300 m due to a 300 m band of rotten rock. Humar traverses to the dangerous

southeast ridge, re-enters the face briefly and exits c. 8000 m for a descent on the northeast

ridge. Dhaulagiri's south face remains unclimbed, remaining one of the greatest remaining

challenges in alpinism.

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