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    Food Living Outside Play Technology Workshop

    How to digitize 35mm negativesby tholopotamion November 1, 2010

    Table of Contents

    How to digitize 35mm negatives ...................................................................................................

    Intro: How to digitize 35mm negatives ...........................................................................................

    Step 1: About film negatives ..................................................................................................

    Step 2: How much detail is recorded on your negative? ..............................................................................

    Step 3: How much resolution do you really need ? ..................................................................................

    Step 4: Design of a DSLR setup ...............................................................................................

    Step 5: I suppose you don't have a macro... .......................................................................................

    Step 6: The optical bench ....................................................................................................

    Step 7: The meccano x-stage .................................................................................................

    Step 8: The film holder ......................................................................................................

    Step 9: The finished setup ....................................................................................................

    Step 10: Try different light sources .............................................................................................. 1

    Step 11: Now shoot! ........................................................................................................ 1

    Step 12: In the digital darkroom: Black and White .................................................................................. 1

    Step 13: Colour negatives .................................................................................................... 1

    Step 14: Old colour negatives can be tough ....................................................................................... 1

    Step 15: Conclusions ....................................................................................................... 1

    Related Instructables ........................................................................................................ 1

    Comments ................................................................................................................ 1

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    Author:tholopotami

    I am a physicist working in research, Making things and sharing the experience with other people helps me in many different ways.

    Intro: How to digitize 35mm negativesOne of the best ways to preserve old photos is to copy the negatives with a digital camera and then use image processing software to "develop" the photo.

    I built a setup for digitiziation with a DSLRto process my old negatives some of which have a sentimental value.

    Since I do not have a macro lens, I combined an SLR lens with a couple of cheap adaptors. The rest was improvised from pieces of wood, cardboard , PVC and evmeccano parts.

    Step 1:About film negativesImage formation

    Film photography is based on the sensitivity of silver halides(AgBr, AgI etc) to light. The upper layer of the film is a coating of gelatin containing crystal grainsilver halides.

    When the film is exposed to l ight, some Ag+ ions are excited to higher energy states and a few combine with electrons to form Ag which wil l act as nucleationcentres in the development stage. At this point the latent image is formed.

    When the film is developed with chemicals, an oxidation - reduction reaction takes place. The silver ions in the exposed regions are reduced to neutral silveratoms which coagulate to form metal grains. This is a negative imagesince the film becomes non transparent in the exposed regions.

    Colour photography is based on a variation of this process with the addition of organic coloured dyes coupled to the silver halides. The film coating has threelayers for the three basic colours (see photo).

    Deterioration of negatives

    Black and white negative images consist of silver grains which are stable over time. The supporting gelatin is sensitive to humidity and temperature but if storeproperly B/W film can last for hundreds of years.

    On the other hand the colour negatives are more sensitive to environmental factors because of the organic dyes they contain. The cyan dyes fade away fasteand the negative becomes reddish. Exposure to light causes the magenta dyes to fade also, due to ultraviolet light.

    http://member/tholopotami/http://member/tholopotami/
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    Image Notes1. This is a typical coloured f ilm structure copied from the datasheet of Agfapan 100.

    Step 2:How much detail is recorded on your negative?The resolution of the image recorded on the negative depends both on the quality of the film and the camera used. Suppose you have been using severalcameras of different qualities as I did. We need an estimation of how much detailhas been recorded in each case.

    The figure of merit here is the resolving power of the camera lens which depends upon the size of the lens and the wavelength of the light source. The resolvpower Rof a lens of diameter D is given by the following simplified formula which is based on wave optics:

    R(measured in arcsec)=120/D(measured in mm)

    A specific example

    A 58/2 lens has a focal distance of 58mm and a diameter of 58/2=29mm. The resolving power is R=120/29=4arcsec. The viewing angle through the camera about 30 degrees which covers the 36mm length of the negative. The minimum size of a dot (or line width) that can be recorded on the negativeis 36mx 4 arcsec / (30 x 60 x 60 arcsec) =1.3micrometers.

    Such a camera fully exploits the potential of a good quality film with a recording capability of about 350 line/spaces per mm.

    If you repeat this calculation in the case of a low end cheap camera the minimum feature size may become 10 times larger. Such a camera cannot take fulladvantage of even a mediocre negative.

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    Image Notes1. Smena 8M, my first camera, a robust and instructive little tool. It has a three component lens 40/4. I used it a lot with B/W Ilford and coloured slides.2. Canon EOS 1000F, my basic camera before the digital era. The lens is 35-80/4.0-5.6. Often I mounted a LEICA 58/2 lens on it.3. ILFORD FP4 125ASA 22DIN , a good and affordable B/W negative in 5m rolls. I used to develop both negatives and photos at home.

    Step 3:How much resolution do you really need ?

    Since the resolving capability of even a normal film usually exceeds your commercial digital camera or scanner the direct answer is :

    As much as you can get.

    Here is a brief justification of the above statement:

    Standard consumer films are capable of recording dense line/space patterns in the range of 50- 150 lines/ mm ( for example see the data sheet of Agfap100). Let us workout the lower value.

    A pattern of 50 lines/mm corresponds to 100 pxls / mm . If you intend to use a scanner to copy them , you need at least 100 dots *25.2 / inch=2520 dpi.

    If you intend to use a digital camera , the 36mm x 24mm negative format requires 36*24*100 *100pxls=8.64Mpxls. A 10Mp camera is sufficient.

    If you repeat the calculations for the upper 150/mm limit the corresponding numbers are 3x2520=7560 dpiand 3x3x8.64=77.8Mpxls!

    This simply demonstrates the potential of the film as a recording medium. It is not a surprise that films are still used for specific applications such asaerophotography.

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    Image Notes1. This is a typical test for optical systems and films. Each block consists of a series of lines/spaces which are first photographed and then inspected under amicroscope. The minimum spaced lines thart are resolved provide a figure of merit for the optical system.

    Step 4:Design of a DSLR setupNow, after this lengthy introduction - which I hope was useful to some people - it's time to get practical.

    These are the parts of the setup:

    1. Your DSLR.2. A macro lens capable to frame exactly the 36x24mm negative. This can be substituted with a common SLR lensand adaptor rings .3. A film holderthat you can make yourself.4. An opaque plastic screen5, A light source. I have used two different slide projectorsfor this as well natural light by aiming on a white walloutside the house. Everything works including atungsten filament lamp.

    Since I needed to have good control of the distance between the film holder and the lens in order to fi t the frame exactly, I made a useful x-stage out of meccano pa. You can substitute this with something simpler, but the stage proved to be useful..

    Step 5:I suppose you don't have a macro...If you do have one, lucky you, go on and use it. I used a 2/58 SLRlens.

    To mount this on the camera I used an adaptor for M42(42mm metric threading) for my specific camera and and two M42 extension rings.

    I already had these for other applications. I use them to mount other lenses on the camera as well as to mount the camera on telescopes.

    The M42 extension rings come in sets of three sizes and I saw them on e-bay for less than 10$.I have a pair of such sets that I got from a flee market a long time ago. Never regretted that buy.

    Please do not use any other method to mount a lens on your camera (PVC , cardboard ).Remember that damaging the interior will cost you much more than a set of adaptors.

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    Image Notes1. The 2/58 camera lens.2. The M42 adaptor ring for the OLYMPUS. I have two of these that I use indifferent cases.

    3. A M42 extension ring. I modified this by adding an internal PVC tube in thediameter of a telescope eyepiece (1 1/4") for another application.

    Image Notes1. The complete set of the three M42 extension rings. Invaluable!

    Step 6:The optical benchI used a 30cm board for the basis of the whole construction and I mounted the camera on a higher platform.This setup is easy to work with and can be useful for other similar projects involving the camera.

    Image Notes1. I cut out these disks with a drill press. This simple method allows the addition of

    thin disks for fine positioning of the hight of the platform.

    Image Notes1. A 1/4" screw (hard to find in my metric world)2. This hole is needed for the screwdriver to reach the screw.

    Step 7:The meccano x-stageThe purpose of the x-stage is to control exactly the distance between the lens and the negative in order to cover the whole camera sensor width with the image.

    No pixels should be wasted!

    Of course you can do this by a sliding stage made out of wood, plastic or any other material.

    However I needed an excuse to use the meccano of my childhood.

    The platform slides between two vertical guides and it is controlled by a 4M screw of 6cm length.

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    Image Notes1. I made this as an independent module in order to use it for other projects. Image Notes

    1. The support for the driving screw

    Image Notes1. The screw stays in place and moves the platform through the threading

    Image Notes1. This is the rail for the platform2. I had to enlarge the holes in order to shift the piece and create the rail for theplatform

    Image Notes1. The only non-meccano piece. A brass angle with threading for the 4mm

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    driving screw.

    Step 8:The film holderAfter fooling around with many designs involving springs, plastic, metal etc, , I selected the simplest solution: cardboard.

    The film holder is made out of cardboard and it is supported by a thin plywood piece.

    A plastic slide part from a slide is the ideal window which must be aligned to the camera lens.

    Image Notes1. A slide piece is the perfect window for the film

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    Step 9:The finished setupA cardboard tube completes the setup.

    Everything can be disassembled and stored in a box, when not used.

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    Step 10:Try different light sourcesThere are two basic methods for illumination

    1. Natural sunlight.

    You may work outside , set the camera for sun illumination and aim the device towards a white wall.It works very well for colour negatives.

    2. A lamp source

    Use a filament lamp combined with an opaque screen, Set the camera for lamp illumination.I use two different slide projectors I have.

    Image Notes1. Everybody knows that toilet paper tubes are intended for use as supports ofopaque screens

    Image Notes1. Should have cleaned the table ... And as someone said: I should havefocused also...

    Step 11:Now shoot!A few tips for the camera:

    1. Exposure time selection.

    I prefer to overexpose by a couple of stops. The range of exposure times is f rom 1/100s to 1/250s

    2. Focusing

    A DSLR has the very useful feature of magnifying the image x10 times and focusing on a detail.

    When doing this I prefer to focus on a regular patternif there is such on the photo. Otherwise select a region with an edge with a clear separation line from light todark.

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    Image Notes1. Focus on a pattern. The green rectangle is a camera option for focusing aselected area. Invaluable!

    Image Notes1. It is better than it looks

    Step 12:In the digital darkroom: Black and White

    Black and white is magic.We have a 3D coloured perception of the world. B/W reduces what we see into pure form and tonal quality .

    In photography as well as in painting i t is important to balance these elements.This is what you have to do in the digital darkroom.

    Camera settingsThe negative was photographed using a slide projector as a light source (200W lamp) at 1/250 sec exposure speed.The projector was 60cm away from the opaque screen.The camera lens was set at F/8 for less distortion and more depth of focus.

    Select a clear pattern for fine focusing.In this case I selected the chair pattern which was focused by setting the camera in "live view" and used the feature of magnification x10 times on a detail for focusingThis is a very useful feature of most DSLRs.

    Digital develpomentI used Photoshop 6.0 . The terminology is similar for any other software.

    1. The initial shot needs cropping, rotatingand colour inverting.2. Then the colour scheme is turned to grayscaleThis results in a faint image which needs further balancing of tones.3. The challenge here is to preserve the details as well as the gray scale (e.g. in the model's hair) when you try to increase the darks. I strongly prefer to adjust

    tone levelsinstead of using the common brightness/contrast tool.4. If it is necessary to smooth the tones add some limited blurring(Gaussian Blurr with a range smaller than 3 pixels).4. Finally you may have to frame the theme by cropping the picture.

    About this photo:I took this shot with a humble SMENA camera back in 1979 using a FP4 Ilford B/W negative which I developed myself. I like the gradation of tones and the relation ofthree people involved here: the photographer/viewer, the painter and the model. One of my favourite photos over the years.

    Image Notes1. fine focus here on the pattern2. Fine focus here on the tecture of the cloth3. This 32 years old negative I developed myself shows no ageing.

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    Image Notes1. this range of tones should be preserved at any cost2. The tone gradation here is fascinating

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    Image Notes1. The negative after inversion of colours and change to grayscale

    Step 13:Colour negativesThis specific negative is 15 years old. The colours have been preserved.

    Camera settings

    Essentially the procedure is the same as for B/W.The negative was photographed using a slide projector at a speed of 1/200 sec.The camera was set for tungsten illumination.

    Development

    1. The initial shot needed croppingand rotating.2. Then the colour scheme was inverted.3. The challenge here is to balance the colours and tones. I prefer to work by adjusting the tone levels for each colour separatelyand then make overall adjustmenof the whole colour scheme. I avoid using the brightness/contrast tool.4. The next step is to control the colour hue/saturationin order to obtain a natural colour scheme. As a rule, the blue colour will need desaturation.

    Image Notes1. I used this pattern on the dress to fine focus the negative2. This woman is of the Berber nomadic tribe living in Matmata (southern Tynisia).The houses of this village are dug in the ground. This well dressed lady poses tothe camera for the 1000th time on the same day and this is written on her face!

    Image Notes

    1. This black strand is the unused part of the camera sensor since the 4/3format does not fit the 36x24 (3/2) negative format.2. Looking at this negative under illumination you can judge that it is of goodquality. Red and blue tones coexist.

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    Image Notes1. Colour inverting reveals the balance of colours. The next step is to adjust thecolour levels and balance the tones

    Image Notes1. Blue is excessive all over the picture and needs desaturation

    Step 14:Old colour negatives can be toughAs discussed in step 1, when the colour negative gets older, the blue dyes tend to fade away.Therefore the negative becomes reddish and when the colours areinverted, blue and green tones dominate.

    It may prove difficult to restore colour balance. In such cases I work with each colour separately adjusting the range of tones, hue and saturation. I repeat this procedu1-2 more times.

    The photo shown here is from a 30 year old negative. The best I could do after playing around with colours and levels was to trust the "variations" option of Photosho6.0. This resulted in a much better balance than that I could obtain manually. St ill it does not look natural. Compare the two photos.

    Image Notes1. "Noe's Ark" in Venice In this version I used the PhotoShop "variations" to selectthe best option

    Image Notes1. In shadows, green is more strong than it should be2. I used these red poles as a guide for the balance of red3. I played around with the level of each colour for three times in sequence.

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    Step 15:Conclusions1. The setup was worth making, it proved to be stable, versatile and effective. Lighting and focusing are controlled very well.

    2. There was no problem with B/W processing, I processed 34 years old negatives. The contrast was excellent.

    3. If a coloured negative is less than 20 years old probably there should be no problem. However treating colours one by oneis not trivial.

    4. Older negatives may appear as "overpainted" when processed. Probably one could overcome this by treating colours and contrasts in different layers. I f it fails youcan always turn to B/W.

    5. You cannot save everything. You may have to let go overexposed, underexposed or unfocused negatives.

    6. This method is faster than a scannerand it offers much more control of the illumination used and the contrast. It offers the additional possibility to use sunlight (pointing to a wall outside).

    Overall, judging from the results obtained so far (more than 200 photos) I intend to continue using it for the rest of my negatives, as well as for those supplied byfriends!

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    Comments

    29 comments Add Comment

    avatar_isays: Jul 26, 2011. 1:15 PM REPNice Instructable.I also have an Epson V-700, and it does GREAT on [minimum] 6x7 cm negs, and 4"x5" to 8"x10", but I have beed dismally disapointed with 35mm and 6x4negs.

    I did, however, find an old film era slide copier that has a t-mount base that will mount onto- and work on- nearly any digital camera, except for the entry levmodels. They work with negs and mounted slides.

    Total cost, about $8.oo [since I already had a t-mount adapter], from the used bin at the local camers store. Most stores don't carry them any longer, but loaround. Most camera store employees don't even know what these things are, and they were all over the place just 10~15 years ago!

    Using a Nikon D300, I have made exceptional hi-res copies of some WWII negatives I have been looking to print, but couldn't afford to leave with the storeor pay their charges for lower quality scans.

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    tholopotamisays: Jul 28, 2011. 10:05 AM REPThanks for noting this. I forgot to mention the option of trying to find a slide copier for SLRs.

    hardwarehanksays: Jul 13, 2011. 10:52 PM REPCool. I'm getting extremely good results on my slides and negatives with my Epson V700 scanner. It costs around $500, though, so this method would beawesome for someone on a budget. Normal flatbed scanners can't do negatives properly.

    Ninzerbeansays: Jul 14, 2011. 7:33 AM REPI have a $49 Epson scanner, I use it all the time for black and white negatives, i just reverse the image (blacks turn white, etc) in photoshop afterscanning. I'm sure most free photo editing software programs have that option too. My negatives are over 50 years old, it's hard to even see what is on

    them, so this is pretty magical when they come into view.

    hardwarehanksays: Jul 15, 2011. 7:50 AM REPYeah, color negatives are really hard to do without a really expensive scanner - I'll bet B&W works fine like you say though. It is really cool to seewhat comes out - my slides from the 50's look amazing.

    tholopotamisays: Jul 14, 2011. 9:15 AM REPI believe you about the 50 years old negatives. B/W contains only silver microcrystals which will stay there as long as the celluloid can keepthem.Only the medium is subject to aging (becomes more yellow because of UV exposure).Things are different with colour dyes (see step 14)

    Thinking about the DSLR setup here is another advantage: When working with B/W I use a projector and an opaque screen. This produces anhomogeneous and parallel light beam which helps increase the contrast of the negative image. This may improve the f inal result compared to ascanner.

    tholopotamisays: Jul 14, 2011. 12:25 AM REPThanks! As you say the problem is that you need more than a normal scanner to do the job decently. The advantage in my case is that I already had althe equipment ad did not have to buy anything. With the DSLR you can experiment a lot . For example you may change the "filament temperature" forlamp exposure from 4000-7000 depending on the light source you are using. This is useful the case of old colour negatives. Even better, with this setuyou may use sunlight by pointing to a white wall. It works very well.

    sferronisays: Jul 14, 2011. 2:28 PM REPYou can get far better results using the color curves tool, which I did on your second image with GIMP. The result is here attached.

    tholopotamisays: Jul 15, 2011. 6:47 AM REPIt looks better than those I posted!

    tholopotamisays: Jul 14, 2011. 10:48 PM REPThanks for trying this ! In fact I hesitate to use the curve tool since I do not have much eperience with it.

    thepaul1993says: Jul 15, 2011. 2:46 AM REPIs that a Olympus E-420?

    tholopotamisays: Jul 15, 2011. 3:24 AM REPYes. It is the less expensive of the series and it is also very light. I have an additional 150mm telephoto of the same brand and I modified an older200mm telephoto for it (see one of my other instructables). I also use it on telescopes.

    marcintoshsays: Jul 14, 2011. 10:21 PM REPIt is not a surprise that films are still used for specific applications such as aerophotography.

    I feel that the move to digital, while good for business and in certain respects the environment and my personal ecomomy (I can now shoot as much as Iwant last year 5k pix) has been a case of throwing the baby out with the bath water. Negs aren't OS dependent or Harddrive dependent nor do they needpower to be viewed. Look to see the prices on medium format cameras on ebay- those guys aren't giving up, neither are the large format shooters..

    Thanks for the Resolving Power work with the math - much appreciated. All in all a very interesting Instructable.Thanks again,

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    http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-digitize-35mm-negatives/

    M

    tholopotamisays: Jul 14, 2011. 10:46 PM REPI am glad someone appreciated the calculations!

    fblholtzsays: Jul 14, 2011. 11:59 AM REPCleaning the table was perhaps not the thing I thought about as much as setting focus to something in the picture. ;- )

    tholopotamisays: Jul 14, 2011. 12:01 PM REPYou are right, what can I say!

    fblholtzsays: Jul 14, 2011. 2:36 PM REPMaybe it was because we wasn't supposed to see the dirt! ;-)Nice instructable, almost make me want to make my own - but I don't have one of those flashy cameras. Maybe I'll t ry hooking up a lamp on top ofthe flat bed scanner instead...

    tholopotamisays: Jul 14, 2011. 10:46 PM REPBefore getting the DSLR I used a compact camera of 5Mpxls. I set the camera at 3x zoom and infinity focus and also put a large 4x magnifyinglens in front of it. This must be as large as possible to avoid distortions. Then I used the film holder with the x-stage but this time to focus sinceyou cannot focus with the camera.

    efra5says: Jul 14, 2011. 4:22 PM REP

    amazing, thanks!

    bankersays: Jul 14, 2011. 9:32 AM REPYou put a lot of work into this. 100 Quatloos!

    tholopotamisays: Jul 14, 2011. 9:41 AM REPThanks! I have been experimenting on the method and trying various setups with different cameras , in my spare time , for about a semester. I reallyenjoyed the results specially in B/W.

    useraaaaasays: Jul 11, 2011. 10:57 AM REP"gap between the frames" is important/it can be used in the photoshop to set "white point" and "black point"

    tholopotamisays: Jul 12, 2011. 12:58 AM REPThanks for pointing out this. I t is a valid tip. In order not to loose pixels by exposing also the gap I prefer to select this manually by adjusting tone levelseven for colour negatives.

    nanosec12says: Jul 11, 2011. 8:30 AM REPthis is an amazing journey that you have invited us to join you on. I enjoy the images you used to demonstrate your process, and I will no doubt be doingsomething similar to preserve my old negatives. thank you for the great instructable, 5 of 5 from me.

    tholopotamisays: Jul 11, 2011. 2:16 PM REPThank you for your kind comments. Indeed I enjoyed the journey also!

    useraaaaasays: Jul 11, 2011. 10:52 AM REP

    why DSLR

    there are million of compact 10+ megapixel cameras,with "close up mode".

    it is possible to set enough light,it does not move,no complications with DOF

    (i mean DSLR is not soo important)

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    tholopotamisays: Jul 11, 2011. 2:14 PM REPThe point is that for this task it is better to use the best equipment you have. Before getting the DSLR I did the same job with a compact camera and asimilar setup. Of course it can be done.

    arduino mansays: Jul 10, 2011. 4:09 PM REPcool

    tholopotamisays: Jul 11, 2011. 12:50 AM REPThanks!

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