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branches

Angliss Beijing Food Service Limited 安得利(北京)食品貿易有限公司#59, Shunhuang Road, Huanggang, Chaoyang District, Beijing, China北京市朝陽區黃港順黃路59號 T. +86 10 8586 1619 | F. +86 10 8586 4880

Angliss Beijing Food Service Limited – Tianjin Branch安得利(北京)食品貿易有限公司 – 天津辦事處Rm 214,Yunhan Building, No.185 Qinjian Road, Hongqiao District, Tianjin, China天津市紅橋區勤儉道185號雲漢大廈214室T. +86 22 2655 8550 | F. +86 22 2655 8550

Angliss Shanghai Food Service Limited 上海安得列郎晴食品貿易有限公司Block B, 5/F, No.4 Building, No.1 Hongqiao Headquarters No.100 Zixiu Road, Minhang District, Shanghai, China上海巿閔行區虹橋鎮紫秀路100號 (近吳中路、合川路) 虹橋總部1號4號樓5樓B座T. +86 21 6073 2060 | F. +86 21 6073 2050

Angliss Shanghai Food Service Limited - Hangzhou Branch Company上海安得列郎晴食品貿易有限公司 - 杭州分公司Room 238-239, No.48 Shixiang Road, Xiacheng District, Hangzhou, China杭州市下城區石祥路48号238-239室T.+86 571 8681 0896 | F.+86 571 8681 0196

Angliss Guangzhou Food Service Co. Limited 廣州安得利福斯食品有限公司Unit 01-08, 25/F, Jia Xing Square, 22 Bai Yun Road, Guangzhou, China 廣州市越秀區白雲路22號嘉星廣場2501-2508室 T. +86 20 8323 5497 | F. +86 20 8323 5446

Angliss Chengdu Food Service Co. Limited 成都安得利福斯食品有限公司Unit 09-10, 26/F, Building A, Long Hu San Qian Xing Zuo Construction of North Road Section 3, Chenghua District, Chengdu, Sichuan, China成都巿成華區建設北路三段2號龍湖三千星座A幢26樓09-10室T. +86 28 8327 3722 | F. +86 28 8315 0922

Angliss Shenzhen Food Service Limited 安得利(深圳)食品有限公司Building 3B, Block B, Baosheng Industrial District No. 1 Mabu Road Bainikeng Village, Pinghu Town Longgang District, Shenzhen, China 深圳巿平湖鎮白坭坑村麻布路1號寶盛工業區B區第3B楝 T. +86 755 2885 7688 | F. +86 755 2585 3675www.anglissz.com

Haikou Angliss Food Service Limited 海口安得利食品有限公司Villa #23, Midhill Garden, 1 Jin Mao Zhong Lu, Haikou, Hainan, China 海口市金貿中路1號半山花園別墅23楝 T. +86 898 8863 0068 | F. +86 898 8863 0318

Angliss Xi’an Food Service Limited 安得利(西安)食品有限公司North Gate of Daily Chemical Factory, No.7 Zhangba North RoadYanta District, Xi’an, China西安巿雁塔區丈八路7#南風日化北門T. +86 29 8873 4883 | F. +86 29 8873 2852

Hunan Angliss Food Service Limited 湖南安得利嘉食品貿易有限公司Baijiahe Warehouse, Changsha Railway Company, Xiangjiang South Road, Xinkaipu, Tianxin District, Changsha, China長沙市天心區新開鋪湘江南路長鐵總公司柏家河倉庫T. +86 731 8556 9552 | F. +86 731 8556 9553

Angliss Macau Food Service Limited 安得利澳門飲食服務有限公司52-58 Rua dos Pescadores, Edf Industrial Ocean II Fase 4-Andar C & D, Macau澳門漁翁街52-58號海洋工業中心2期4樓C&D室 T. +853 2886 2886 | F. +853 2886 2828

Angliss Singapore Pte Ltd232 Pandan Loop, Singapore 128420T. +65 6778 8787 | F. +65 6778 3966www.angliss.com.sg

FoodPride21 Tuas Bay Walk, Singapore 63773 T. +65 6275 9275 | F. +65 6863 3855

PastryGlobal Food Service Limited 嘉寶食品有限公司Unit B, 3/F., Yoo Hoo Tower, 38 Kwai Fung CrescentKwai Chung, N.T., Hong Kong香港新界葵涌葵豐街38號Yoo Hoo Tower 3樓B室T. +852 2494 1900 | F. +852 3145 0756www.pastryglobal.com.hk

PastryGlobal Singapore Pte. Ltd.232 Pandan Loop, Singapore 128420T. +65 6933 9500 | F. +65 6774 0554

L’Atelier du Goût Hong Kong 賞味坊Shop A2, G/F, Yoo Hoo Tower, 38 Kwai Fung CrescentKwai Chung, N.T., Hong Kong 香港新界葵涌葵豐街38號大鴻輝中心二期地下A2鋪 T. +852 2615 0638 | F. +852 2615 2210www.atelierdugout.com.hk

foodtalk 名廚坊New Territories shop:G/F, 38 Kwai Fung CrescentKwai Chung, N.T., Hong Kong 香港新界葵涌葵豐街38地下 T. +852 2615 0822 | F. +852 2615 0855

Hong Kong Island shop:G/F, 23 First StreetSai Ying Pun, Hong Kong香港西營盤第一街23號地下T. +852 2615 0338 | F. +852 2559 3938

Kowloon shop:G/F, 21 Nanking StreetJordan, Kowloon, Hong Kong香港九龍佐敦南京街21號地下T. +852 2615 9187 | F. +852 2615 9287www.foodtalk.com.hk

Sweet la Vie Priestley’s Gourmet Delights47-51 Kwai Fung Crescent, Kwai Chung, N.T., Hong Kong

香港新界葵涌葵豐街47-51號T. +852 2494 4988 | F. +852 2494 4987

Him Kee Food Distribution Company Limited 謙記食品貿易有限公司3/F., East Asia Industrial Building, No.2 Ho Tin StreetTuen Mun, N.T., Hong Kong香港新界屯門河田街2號東亞紗廠工業大廈3樓 T. +852 2440 0756 | F. +852 2440 0405

Miumi Japan Food Co Ltd 御海日本食品有限公司 Flat 801-804, 8/F., Tai Hung Fai Centre Tower 177-81 Container Port Road, Kwai Chung, N.T., Hong Kong香港新界葵涌貨櫃碼頭路77-81號大鴻輝中心一期8樓801-804室T. +852 2494 4966 | F. +852 2439 4070

Miumi Japan Food Co Pte. Ltd 御海日本食品私人有限公司232 Pandan Loop, Singapore 128420T. +65 6777 2112 | F. +65 6779 7666

Gourmet Cuisine Hong Kong Limited 高美食材香港有限公司Unit B, 9/F., Yoo Hoo Tower, 38 Kwai Fung CrescentKwai Chung, N.T., Hong Kong 香港新界葵涌葵豐街38號Yoo Hoo Tower 9樓B室T. +852 2494 1977 | F. +852 2439 5055

Gourmet Partner (M) Sdn BhdNo.7, Jalan Anggerik Mokara 31/45, Seksyen 31Kota Kemuning, 40460 Shah AlamSelangor Darul Ehsan, MalaysiaT. +603 5122 1601 | F. +603 5121 0601

Gourmet Partner Singapore(A Division of Angliss Singapore Pte Ltd)232 Pandan Loop, Singapore 128420T. +65 6602 0790 | F. +65 6778 0153

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Hot TalkMichelin Mythology and the Issue of Guides and Lists

Chef’s TalkGilles Reinhardt, on being Paul Bocuse’s protégé

Slice of the PastThe story of Tarte Tatin

Talk of the Town & GlobeEvents, shows and new restaurants in Greater China and around the world

Sweet TalkChef Lily Wang Yuan Li of Sofitel Guangzhou Sunrich

RecipesFrench & Chinese Fusion Dessert

Amuse BoucheA word from Managing Director, Johnny Kang

Behind The StovesDominique Bugnand, Director of Culinary Operationsand Food & Beverage at Mandarin Oriental Macau

Special ReportFonterra Foodservices Pastry Challenge 2013A memorable feast in France

Restaurant InsiderMaison Eric Kayser forges a way in Asia & the World

Book TalkElizabeth David, the writer who brought provincial France to the masses

Talk FreshMaison Feyel, two centuries of foie gras

features

06 1410 22Dominique Bugnand

Director of Culinary Operations and Food & Beverage at Mandarin Oriental Macau, tells us about his journey from Burgundy to Asia.

Maison FeyelDelving into the history of foie gras’s not-so-humble origins

and the Alsatian house that has brought it to the 21st Century.

Maison Eric KayserWe find out more about the group’s philosophies

and future plans.

An Upside-down TartWe look at the history, myths

and legends behind Tarte Tatin.

Editor-in-Chief Janice Leung

Editor Grace Chan

Project Manager Winnie Wong

Creative Director Lucia Cahyaningtyas

Chinese Translation A Chan of RR Donnelley

Foodtalk is published quarterly by

Angliss Hong Kong Food Service Ltd.

2013 © Copyright Angliss Hong Kong

Food Service Ltd. All rights reserved.

二十八期

總編輯 Janice Leung

編輯 Grace Chan

項目统籌 Winnie Wong

設計及藝術總監 Lucia Cahyaningtyas

翻譯 A Chan of RR Donnelley

Foodtalk 季刊由安得利香港餐飲有限公司出版

2013 © 安得利香港餐飲有限公司版權所有，不得翻印

Published by:

Angliss Hong Kong Food Service Limited

47-51 Kwai Fung Crescent

Kwai Chung, N.T. Hong Kong

T. +852 2481 5111 | F. +852 2489 8861

info@angliss.com.hk | www.angliss.com.hk

出版:

安得利香港餐飲有限公司香港新界葵涌葵豐街47-51號電話 +852 2481 5111 | 傳真 +852 2489 8861

info@angliss.com.hk | www.angliss.com.hk

Serving those who serve great food.

我們衷誠服務，為你造就美食

Angliss Food Service has always been seen as a trading firm, specializing in storage, supply, distribution, and marketing of temperature-controlled food products since our establishment in 1946. Through our service, Angliss is perceived as traditional, stable, high and mighty.

Moving forward in the future, Angliss will innovate from being not only a world-class fresh food supplier, but also one that embodies service excellence with the promise of quality and peace of mind. We will grow with customers and stay relevant to their needs through constant innovating. Our team will become more approachable, listen to feedback and value working relationships with all business partners.

In October this year, we are proud to introduce a new logo to reflect the start of a new era for Angliss. The hand drawn font expresses our approachability and innovation, and the golden Chinese seal includes the character “an”, the first word in Angliss’s Chinese name,as well as the word for peace of mind, a quality we pledge to bring to our partners.

We understand food the way you need it.

安得利餐飲自1946年創立以來，一直被市場視為一家貿易公司，專門從事溫度控制食品的儲存、供應、分銷及市場推廣業務。安得利在提供服務的過程中，深深體現了傳統、可靠以及與實力雄厚的特質。 展望未來，安得利將會矢志創新，在作為世界一流新鮮食品供應商的基礎上，透過對重視品質及安心可靠的承諾，展現卓越服務的精神。我們將伴隨客戶一同成長，透過不斷的創新，滿足其不斷提升的需要。我們的團隊將更靠近客戶，聆聽所有業務伙伴的意見，而且重視與其建立更緊密的工作關係。

今年十月，我們榮幸推出安得利的新標誌，以反映公司邁進嶄全時代。手寫的字體顯示我們在創新之餘亦充滿人情味，而燙金中文標誌則包含我們中文名字的第一個字「安」。「安」代表「安心」，是我們對各位伙伴在品質上的承諾。

我們對食品具有深入的認識，能夠完全滿足你們的需要。

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amuse bouche

“We introduced an updated logo ... a quality we pledge to bring to our partners.”“我們安得利的最新標誌亦與大家見面...，是我們對合作伙伴的品質承諾。”

第28期的Foodtalk與大家見面了！

安得利在過去幾個月有不少令人振奮的新進展，以下將與大家分享一下。

在10月，我們成立了Sweet la

Vie芝士糕點製作室。這間製作室是嘉寶食品有限公司的新成員，主力製作優質的冷藏芝士蛋糕和甜品。廠房已通過清真認證，設計亦符合食品安全重點控制系統 (HACCP) 及ISO

22000系統的要求。製作室現已正式投入運作，採用的高級材料以及世界一流的設備和設施，確保我們交予合作伙伴都是最優質的產品。

同月，我們安得利的最新標誌亦與大家見面，象徵公司踏入新紀元。以手寫字體代表我們創新之餘亦充滿人情味，而金色中文字印章則是安得利中文名稱第一個字「安」。「安」亦即「安心」，是我們對合作伙伴的品質承諾。

此外，為了提供更好更全面的產品和服務，我們欣然宣佈在美食採購方面新成立意大利食品部。

在8月，我很榮幸獲得母公司Bidvest頒發的行政總裁大獎。這個獎項代表我們團隊的傑出成績，本人藉此機會感謝同事及各位飲食業界伙伴一直以來鼎力支持。

10月29日，業界的精英聚首於香港W酒店舉行的「安得利美饌巡禮2013」。在這天的活動中，除了美食和表演節目外，亦會舉行「安得利美饌廚藝大賽」，屆時來自亞洲各地的八位參賽者將以今年主題「經典烹調的現代詮釋」，採用澳洲和牛、意大利麵條、松露產品等指定食材，以及紐西蘭的奶類製品炮製別具創意的菜式。

齊來迎接未來幾個月精彩萬分的活動！

江文喜亞洲區董事總經理

Welcome to Issue 28 of Foodtalk.

The Angliss world has been abuzz with exciting new developments in the past few months that we’d love to share with you.

In October, we launched Sweet la Vie, a new member of PastryGlobal Food Service. This production factory for high quality frozen cheesecakes and desserts is Halal accredited and designed for HACCP & ISO 22000 systems and has comeinto official operation. Premium ingredients, world-class equipment and facilities ensure that only high quality products are delivered to our partners.

In the same month, we introduced an updated logo to reflect the start of a new era for Angliss. The hand drawn font expresses our approachability and innovation, and the golden Chinese seal includes the character “an”, the first word in Angliss’s Chinese name, as well as the word for peace of mind, a quality we pledge to bring to our partners.

To this end, to better serve you and provide an ever-expanding product range, we are proud to announce the launch of a new Italian food product division for gourmet sourcing.

Back in August, I had the honour of receiving the Chief Executive’s Award from our parent company Bidvest. This is again a reminder of our achievements as a team, and I am grateful for their support, as well as that of you, our fellow partners in the food industry.

On October 29, we bring together the food industry’s elite at our one-day gourmet event, Angliss Discovery 2013 at W Hotel Hong Kong. Aside from marvelous food and entertainment, it plays host to the Angliss Discovery Culinary Tournament, where eight contestants from around Asia compete to create dishes that best represent this year’s theme, “Classical Cooking in a Modern Way”, using designated ingredients of Wagyu from Australia, Italian pasta and truffle products, and dairy products from New Zealand.

We hope you’re looking forward to the months ahead as much as we are.

Johnny KangRegional Managing Director – Asia

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法國勃艮第名廚在澳門

A BURGUNDIANIN THE CITYOriginally from Burgundy, France, Dominique Bugnand, Director of Culinary Operations and Food & Beverage at Mandarin Oriental Macau, has worked and travelled all around the world. After stints in the United States, Europe and Latin America,he has made Asia his home for more than a decade, including six years at the idyllic Mandarin Oriental, Dhara Dhevi in Chiang Mai, Thailand, as Executive Chef and Food and Beverage Director. New to the Greater China region, the charming, ebullient chef has been in Macau for just under a year.

現任澳門文華東方酒店烹飪營運及餐飲總監Dominique Bugnand來自法國勃艮第，並曾周遊列國在不同國家任職。他曾在美國、歐洲和拉丁美洲工作，如今在亞洲已經十多年，包括六年在泰國清邁風景如畫的Dhara Dhevi文華東方酒店出任行政總廚和餐飲總監。大中華地區對Dominique充滿新鮮感，畢竟這位魅力十足、熱情洋溢的大廚在澳門還不足一年時間。

behind the stoves

F (Foodtalk): Why did you become a chef?B (Dominique Bugnand): I’m from a small village in Burgundy, and where I come from is a farm. In the early 80s in France, especially in the countryside, we do everything by ourselves; we don’t buy anything. My grandma, my mother, they do everything by themselves, so through this I decided to be a chef. I started cooking (at home) when I was maybe 10 years old, but went to school when I was 13, and started real work in the kitchen when I was 16.

F: What made you decide to leave France, and ultimately settle in Asia?B: Since I was young, I said I would travel all around the world. I [first] went to South America, to Brazil, Martinique, Mexico, all around, and I feel comfortable in Asia. The first time I came to Asia was 25 years ago, I was on a one-year leave. I moved around, and my wife is Thai, so we went on holidays in Bangkok. We went to a cake shop (owned by Mandarin Oriental), and my wife said, “Maybe they’re looking for somebody (to work here), you should ask”. I said no, but she was pushy! I went to ask the young boy training at the counter, and he said, “You know what, I think they’re looking for a chef at the Mandarin Oriental”. He gave me the name card of the Executive Chef Norbert Kostner, he’s been

F (Foodtalk): 當初為甚麼會成為廚師？B (Dominique Bugnand): 我來自勃艮第的一條小村莊，那裡是農場。80年代初，在法國（特別是在鄉郊地區）我們甚麼都要親力親為，不買東西。我的祖母、我的母親，她們甚麼都自己做，所以我決定要成為廚師。開始在家煮飯大概是10歲，而13歲時就到烹飪學校學藝，16歲真正開始在廚房工作。

F: 是甚麼促使你離開法國，最後到亞洲定居？B: 我年輕時就決定要周遊列國，首先到了南美，去巴西、馬提尼克島、墨西哥，甚麼地方都去，而亞洲令我感到很舒服。25年前我第一次來到亞洲，享受一年休假。我在亞洲到處都住過，內子是泰國人，所以我們到曼谷度假，去了文華東方旗下的一間餅店，內子說：「說不定這裡有空缺，不妨問一下。」我說不好，但她極力勸說，於是我問櫃檯受訓的年輕男職員，他回答說：「真巧，文華東方好像有個廚師空缺。」他把行政總廚Norbert Kostner的名片交給我，如今Norbert在那兒工作已經差不多四十載。我們見面，他請我準備食物讓他試菜。我要準備三十道菜，花了兩天時間準備和五小時著手。最後我在當地待了六年。

泰國人很友善和順，我與大家相處得很好。從泰國入手了解亞洲文化不失為一個好方式。如果我去的是另一個國家，例如是二十年前的中國，或者是新加坡或香港，可能不會想留在亞洲。那些城市太匆忙了，而我是鄉郊出身的！甚至去曼谷時，對我來說也感覺是個大城市。

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there for around 40 years now. We met, and he asked me to prepare a food tasting. I had to make thirty dishes. It took me two days to prepare and five hours to set up. I stayed with them for six years.

Thai people are nice, gentle, and I got along with everybody. It was a very good way to approach Asian culture. Maybe if I went to a different country, like China, twenty years ago, or even Singapore or Hong Kong, maybe I wouldn’t want to stay in Asia. [The cities] were too rushed. I’m from the countryside! Even when I went to Bangkok, it felt like a big city.

F: After Bangkok, you went to Mandarin Oriental Geneva. How was that?B: After six years in Asia, I was coming “back” to Europe, but I had a culture shock. I wasn’t used to people who weren’t happy with their jobs. French people complain all the time – when it’s hot, it’s too hot, when it’s cold, it’s too cold – never happy. After, I went back to Thailand, to Mandarin Oriental, Dhara Dhevi, in Chiang Mai.

F: What made you decide to come to Macau?B: After 13 years in Thailand altogether, I think it was time to move. Chiang Mai is a beautiful region, but I think I missed the touch with the city. I love Chiang Mai, it’s a little bit like

F: 在曼谷之後，你到了瑞士日內瓦的文華東方。感受如何？B: 在亞洲待了六年後，我決定「回到」歐洲，但我經歷了文化衝擊。我不太習慣不滿工作的人，法國人總是愛抱怨，一是天氣太熱，一是天氣太冷，他們好像老是不快樂。之後我回到泰國，在清邁的Dhara

Dhevi文華東方度假酒店任職。

F: 你為什麼決定來澳門？B: 在泰國度過了整整13年後，我覺得應該改變一下環境。清邁是一個美麗的地方，但我開始想念城市生活。我愛清邁，那裡有點像勃艮第，都是多山的地方，有很多農產品，蔬菜都是在清邁種植的。我很滿意當地的生活，但經過七年，你會開始感覺太優悠了，會令自己失去動力。

F: 你覺得人們明白廚師的工作嗎？B: 我認為人們越來越了解這個行業，現在有很多電視節目推廣廚師這個行業。節目呈現的並不是真實一面，但至少使不少年輕人覺得可以投身其中。在1980至1990年代，飲食業人才短缺的問題非常嚴重。80年代我學廚時，廚師都很粗魯，會向著你大叫大嚷，對待你像狗一樣。那時當廚師並不很愜意，日復日每天工作15、16小時，哪怕是犯了一個小錯誤一一年少時誰不犯錯，廚師都不會體諒。那個年頭不少人覺得當廚師太辛苦，而且得不到尊重，所以放棄了。電視節目告訴我們當廚師雖然辛苦，但樂趣無窮。這是吸引人才的一個好辦法。以前，我們不會在雜誌上看到廚師的樣子。你會見到菜譜，但從來沒有廚師的相片。現時大家都想和廚師見面，所以我們每天都要刮鬍子，在餐廳客人面前要得體。

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“電視節目告訴我們當廚師雖然辛苦，但樂趣無窮。”

Burgundy. There are some mountains, a lot of produce – all the vegetables are grown in Chiang Mai. I was very happy there, but after seven years there, you start to feel too comfortable, and being too comfortable is not good for you.

F: Do you think people understand what being a chef is like? B: I think people understand more and more, because there are (now) lots of TV shows, they promote chefs. It’s not real, but at least it’s opened some doors for young kids. In the 1980s to 1990s, we had a very big problem in the food industry – we were missing people. When I was learning, in the 80s, chefs were very rude, they scream at you, they treat you like a dog – it wasn’t nice to be a chef. You work 15, 16 hours a day, every day, and if you make a small mistake, (which you would) because you’re young, the chef doesn’t understand. People said they don’t want to be chefs anymore, because it’s too hard, and no-one respects them. What TV has done is it’s shown that being a chef is hard, but it’s fun. This is a good approach. Before, you never saw chefs in magazines. You’d see the recipe, but never a picture [of the chef]. Now, people want to see you. You need to shave every day because you need to be presentable to guests (at the restaurant).

F: The clientele at Mandarin Oriental Macau is mostly Mainland Chinese. How do their tastes differ from other markets you’ve worked in?B: They prefer very fresh seafood, and when they order something, they need it very quickly. They want their amuse bouche, appetiser, with the dessert, altogether on the table, Chinese style.

F: What are some foods that you wouldn’t miss in your hometown?B: I love eggs meurette – eggs poached in red wine sauce. It’s a very Burgundian dish that I definitely would not miss. Escargot that my mum makes, I love it. Cheese, wine, good bread, and vegetables from my garden. My father has a garden, and he grows all the vegetables by himself. That’s one thing I miss, we have no gardens in Macau.

F: 澳門文華東方酒店的客人主要來自中國內地。他們的口味和你工作過的其他地方有何不同？B: 他們喜歡非常新鮮的海鮮，當他們點菜後，總希望很快上菜。他們喜歡開胃小點、前菜和甜品都一起放到桌上，好像吃中菜一樣。

F: 有哪些菜式在你祖家是一定不可錯過的？B: 我很喜歡紅酒汁水煮蛋，這是非常地道的法國勃艮第菜式，我是絕對不會錯過的。此外，家母做的田螺也是我的至愛。當然，還有我家花園的芝士、葡萄酒、新鮮麵包和蔬菜。在我父親的花園，各式各樣的蔬菜都是他親自種的。可惜澳門這裡沒有花園，這是我很懷念的。

09

special report

Fonterra FoodservicesPastry Challenge 2013Hong Kong

2013年香港區恒天然烘焙大賽

Hailed as a bakers’ cradle the Fonterra Foodservices Pastry Challenge was held for the sixth consecutive year on 25 September 2013 at the HITDC in Pokfulam.

With ‘tastes of the seasons’ as its theme, the baking competitionattracted keen interest from the industry and eight teams were selected to compete on the day. The panel of judges comprised five distinguished pastry chefs: Mr. Jean-Francois Arnaud, M.O.F. Patissier; Mr. Herve Lemonon, Executive Pastry Chef, Grand Lapa Hotel; Mr. Thomas Lui, Founder of Thomas Trillion Passion du Patisserie; Mr. Adrien Nanus, Chef Executive of Paul Lafayet Patisserie Francaise; and Mr. Arno Urch, Pastry Chef/Consultant of Maxim’s Caterers Limited.

In a competition judges will look far beyond the presentation of the cake. They will pay particular attention to the layering and balance of texture and tastes in every slice. They will also look at the preparation and execution of the recipe, teamwork, technique, hygiene and organization of the work station, level of wastage…etc. Each team was given a debriefing after the judging – what they did well and where to improve – the most valuable part of the competition.

This year the candidates’ creativity impressed and delighted the judges. Some teams came up with an unusual combinationof flavours and texture that produced some very pleasant surprise.After some meticulous judging and careful consideration the panel selected the winners: JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong for Best Award Gold; InterContinental Hotel Hong Kong, Best Award Silver and the Hong Kong Jockey Club, Best Award Bronze.

All the judges were very happy to be there and help the budding bakers improve. They encouraged the young chefs to maintain their curiosity and enthusiasm to learn from different sources: books, magazines, TV, famous pastry shops, past competitions…They should also experiment and try different recipes until they come up with a product that is to their entire satisfaction.

恒天然烘焙大賽素有烘焙師的搖籃之稱，本年度的賽事於2013年9月25日假座港島薄扶林的旅遊服務業培訓發展中心舉行。該比賽過往已連續舉辦五屆。

今年的主題是「季節之味」，比賽獲得業界的大力支持，共有八隊於當日激烈角逐。評審團包括五位出色的烘焙大師：M.O.F.

Patissier Jean-Francois Arnaud先生；及澳門金麗華酒店的行政餅房總厨Herve Lemonon先生；Thomas Trillion Passion du Patisserie的創辦人Thomas Lui先生；Paul Lafayet Patisserie Francaise的行政總廚Adrien Nanus先生；以及美心食品有限公司的行政總餅師／顧問Arno Urch先生。

在比賽中，評審不單留意蛋糕的外型，而且相當著重其層次以及每片蛋糕在質感和口味之間的平衡。此外，他們也不會忽略準備和實際操作、團隊合作、技巧、工作台的衛生及條理性，以及廚餘的多少等等。評審結束後，每一隊都會獲得一段評語，使參賽者知道甚麼環節做得好、甚麼需要改善，這事實上是比賽最重要的一環。

今年參賽者的創意使評審留下了深刻的印象。有些隊伍更別出心裁，炮製出一些非常令人喜出望外的獨特味道和質感組合。經過

一番討論及認真考慮後，評審選出了以下的得獎隊伍：金獎得主香港JW萬豪酒店；銀獎得主洲際酒店；以及銅獎得主香港賽馬會。

各評審都表示很高興能夠出席參與這次盛會，為培育新一代的糕餅廚師而出力。他們鼓勵年輕廚師透過書籍、雜誌、電視節目、參觀著名糕餅店和參加廚藝比賽等各種方式，來維持對糕餅創作的好奇心和熱情……不要害怕試驗，因為這樣才能嘗試不同的食譜，創出自己完全滿意的作品。

10

ON THE RISE麵包烘焙界的後起之秀

A third-generation baker from Lorraine, northeastern France, Eric Kayser opened his first bakery in Paris in 1996. Known for his

respect for traditional breads and commitment to natural yeast, Eric Kayser invented Fermento Levain, a machine that uses liquid

levain. Since opening in 2001 in Japan, the group, Maison Eric Kayser, began its international expansion and now has 80 shops all

around the world, from Senegal to Singapore. The Hong Kong operation is a partnership between Eric Kayser and two investors,

and after opening their first shop in Harbour City, Tsim Sha Tsui late last year, they have since launched a second outlet in Happy

Valley, and have more on the drawing board. We talk to Olivier Candiotti, longtime friend of Eric Kayser and Chief Executive Of-

ficer of Maison Eric Kayser Hong Kong.

Eric Kayser是來自法國東北部洛林省 (Lorraine) 的第三代麵包師，他於1996年在巴黎開設自己的第一家麵包店。Eric Kayser非常尊崇傳統的麵包製作方法，並致力使用天然酵母，這促使他發明Fermento Levain這部使用天然酵母液的機器。Maison Eric Kayser麵包連鎖店集團2001年在日本開業，其後擴張到世界各地。現時在全球擁有80家商店，由塞內加爾到新加坡都能找到其蹤跡。至於香港的分店是由Eric Kayser和兩位投資者所開設的。繼去年第一間店舖於尖沙咀海港城開業後，第二間也已於跑馬地營業，其他地方的分店則會陸續開幕。以下我們將會訪問Olivier Candiotti，他既是Eric Kayser的老朋友，也是香港Maison Eric Kayser的行政總裁。

restaurant insider

11

From left to right: Mr. Arnaud Barthelemy (French Consulate General), Mr. Eric Kayser and Mr. Olivier Candiotti

restaurant insider

F (Foodtalk): Every group starts off as one shop, and at some point it’s decided that they are to expand. Can you take us through that process?C (Olivier Candiotti): As Eric finished his apprenticeship and travelled a bit worldwide, he became a teacher in the most well known baking school in France, Institut National de la Boulangerie Pâtisserie – all the best bakers have been trained by this institute. He was a very good teacher. During this time, he realised that bread was (becoming) more and more industrial, with no authenticity. He worked with previous [old] recipes on natural yeast, and ‘bingo!’ he patented a state of the art machine to [capture] natural yeast. In his mind, all he wanted to do was make bread with natural yeast.

In 1996, he put all his money into opening a shop in the heart of Paris. It was very brave. It was more than a success – there were queues every day. At this time in France, there was a big debate about bakery businesses – was it industrialised or real bread made in-house?

Then he met his Japanese partner who belongs to a very big bakery company (to an old family bakers) in Tokyo. They were very impressed by this young baker. Nowadays, Maison Eric Kayser has around 40 shops in Tokyo, Fukuoka, Yokohama, Sendai and so on. In June (this year) they just opened a wonderful flagship in Osaka. Japan [as a market] is very well established. A year and a half ago, a shop opened in New York City with a very prestigious franchisee. The next stage will be reinforcement of Asia, South America – there is already a shop in Santiago, but probably Brazil – and in Europe, there are many things to do. After 17 years, it is normal (that) it has become an empire.

F: With so many shops and plans for the future, how do you ensure the consistency of the quality of your output?C: Consistency is a key point. If you grow too quickly, and you don’t control your operations and business model, your brand image, quality and so on, you’ll kill yourself, very quickly, because (there is a) vulgarisation (of the brand). The Eric Kayser Group has a very strong expertise in controlling the image with the franchisee and within direct investment (projects), so even though it may seem obvious, you need to have decoration charts, corporate colours, and consistency of the products. For this, you need consistency at the factory. We have top-of-the-line equipment, such as French, Swiss and Japanese equipment.

F (Foodtalk): 許多集團開始時只有一間店舖，其後才決定大展拳腳。你能與我們分享你們的發展過程嗎？C (Olivier Candiotti): Eric在完成他的學徒訓練後，到了全球多個國家遊歷。後來他更在法國最知名的烘焙學校Institut National de la

Boulangerie Pâtisserie擔任師傅，法國所有一流的麵包師都是來自那兒。Eric是一位非常好的老師。在那段時間，他意識到麵包製作越來越工業化，失去了生命力。有一次，他嘗試用傳統的天然酵母來烘焙麵包，怎知效果驚為天人！其後他更發明了一種使用天然酵母、非常先進的麵包烘焙機，並取得專利。他一心一意只想用天然酵母烘焙麵包。

1996年，他耗盡自己所有的家當，在巴黎的心臟地帶開設麵包店。此舉可謂非常大膽，但卻做得非常成功，每天都有許多人排隊等候購買麵包。當時法國人對烘焙食品企業議論紛紛，質疑其產品是經大規模的工業生產，還是小店烘焙的「真正」麵包？

然後，他遇到了他的日本合作夥伴，這個日本人在東京擁有一間規模很大的麵包烘焙公司（該公司由一個世代相傳的麵包烘焙家族擁有）。這個家族對於Eric Kayser這個年輕的麵包師印象深刻。今時今日，Maison Eric Kayser在東京、福岡、橫濱、仙台等地開有約40家店舖，今年6月更在大阪開了一間旗艦店。日本市場的發展可謂非常成熟。一年半前，一個聲譽甚隆的特許經營商在美國紐約市又開了一間分店。集團下一階段將加強在亞洲、南美洲（聖地牙哥已有一間分店，下一站可能是巴西）和歐洲的業務，所以要做的事還有很多。經過17年發展，集團能發展至這個規模，是頗為自然的事。

12

restaurant insider

F: How does staffing affect consistency of the products and the continued success of the Group?C: When Eric trains his chiefs (bakers) – they don’t need to be 50 years old, bakers and pastry chefs start at the age of 14, 15, so when you are 25, 30, you already have more than ten years of experience – these chiefs are always with us when kicking off (a new location) for the first two, three years, then they’re replaced by other chiefs, but sometimes, if we can, and this would be excellent, the local sous chef can grow with this. We will always have a French chef somewhere, but our real objective is to train and keep and our team, and [for them] to be proud to work for us. Otherwise if you don’t invest in local people, after two, three years, they will feel that they have no career, so this is very important in our company. F: How about consistency of recipes and ingredients?C: They have all the same QA (Quality Assurance) and QC (Quality Control) specifications, which are confidential and internal, because we developed our own. Depending on the region, we have different suppliers. In France and in Japan, it’s quite easy. It’s very important, because it’s a long process to develop [items like] baguettes. For [ingredients like] butter, it’s a question of price and quality. Obviously, if I (could get) a good price from France, I would get it tomorrow morning, but it’s very expensive, so we have to find the equivalent. In Asia, the equivalent can be found easily in New Zealand.

F: Is the menu mostly the same throughout the world, or do you create specific items for the local market too?C: We have a core business, which is the same [throughout the world] especially in this concept, which is bread-dish oriented. Locally we try to adapt a little bit, but not too much, otherwise you betray your origins. One adaptation, which we do in Japan, but also here, Korea and Singapore, is having smaller size breads, and a little bit less sugary, because of Asian tastes. We do have some special (local) products. Here in Hong Kong, we have a kind of “Chinese” chicken ciabatta (Chinese steamed chicken). We are now working on something connected to hibiscus, which is a Hong Kong flower.

F: 你們有這麼多新店要開，有這麼多的鴻圖大計，但你們如何確保產品質量一致？C: 一致性是相當關鍵的。如果增長太快而且又未能有效控制業務和經營模式、品牌形象、產品質量等等，品牌就會變得庸俗化，失去自己特色，集團也因此會很快走上失敗之路。Eric Kayser Group在管理特許經營商和直接投資項目方面擁有很豐富的專業知識，即使聽起來好像有點理所當然，但我們在裝飾圖表、企業標誌顏色和產品的一致性方面都有嚴格指引。對於這一點，廠房方面也必須有一致性。我們擁有出產自法國、瑞士和日本的最頂級設備。

F: 員工如何影響產品的一致性，以及令集團持續成功？C: 我們沒有要求年屆50歲才能成為總麵包師。Eric的總麵包師、一般麵包師和糕點廚師會在十四、五歲左右開始接受培訓，所以當他們25、30歲時，就已擁有逾十年的經驗。在新店的最初兩、三年，這些麵包師一般會到我們這裡工作，然後再由其他麵包師接替。在可能的情況下，有時候本地副麵包師也能一起成長，這就是最好不過的事情了。我們通常會有一個法國麵包師助陣，但我們的真正目標是培養和保留自己的團隊，使他們為我們工作會感到自豪。如果你不投資培訓當地的人才，兩三年後，他們就會覺得事業前景黯淡。人才對我們公司來說是非常重要的。

F: 食譜和食材的一致性如何拿捏？C: 他們都有相同的質量保證（QA）和質量控制（QC）規格，但我們不能公開，只供內部使用，因為這都是我們自己開發的。視乎地區的不同，我們會選用不同的供應商，在法國和日本是容易不過的事。這一點非常重要，因為開發如法式長麵包等產品的過程十分漫長。對於牛油等食材，其價格和質量相當關鍵。當然，如果有關食材在法國的價格合理，我明天早上就會馬上採購；但正因其價格昂貴，因此我們必須尋找替代品。在亞洲，替代品很容易在新西蘭就能找到。

F: 你們在世界各地分店提供的產品是否大致相同？抑或會因應當地市場而創製特別的產品？C: 我們的核心業務，在世界各地都是一樣的，就是生產適合麵包盤盛載的麵包。在不同地區，我們會盡量去作出一些調整，但也不會作太多調整，否則只會違背了自己的基本信念。舉例說，為迎合亞洲人的口味，我們在日本、香港、韓國和新加坡的店舖會出產一些尺寸較小、糖分用量少一點點的麵包。此外，我們也有一些特別的地道產品。例如在香港，我們有一種以「中式」白切雞為材料的脆皮意大利白麵包三文治。此外，我們現時正在製作一些與朱槿這種香港常見花卉有關的麵包。

13

book talk

Bringing French Cuisine to TheWorld – Elizabeth David

向世界推介法國地方美食

While France has always been known as one of the world’s food capitals, the French, particularly those who felt that their regional cooking was being undermined by haute cuisine, have a British food writer to thank for bringing their recipes to a wider audience. That particular British person was Elizabeth David, who wrote French Provincial Cooking, first published in 1951.

Possibly for the first time, a truer, more quotidian face of French food was brought to a wider audience, who until then were used to seeing French food as fussy or only achievable by well-trained chefs. Unlike another seminal tome on Frenchcooking, Larousse Gastronomique, David’s approach is suitablefor the home cook, so that they may cook like their counterparts in Toulouse or Lyon.

The book starts with an introduction of the French provinces. Although the recipes themselves seem to be written for housewives in post-war Britain, this lengthy piece at the beginning will inspire anyone to travel, eat and enjoy the French countryside.

When it comes to cookery instruction, it starts with the very basics – how to equip one’s kitchen, and basic herbs and spices with which to stock the pantry. Later in the book, the chapters are categorised in a natural, although not always logical manner. From sauces, salads, soups, eggs, to the various proteins (even a chapter dedicated to “composite meat dishes”, common in country France), vegetables and sweets, David takes us on a culinary adventure through France with her lyrical prose.

Long before the age of “food porn” and television shows about gastronomic travel, David used her writing to bring the lusciousness of French food and culture to life, captivating numerous would-be food writers and chefs, and thus influencing the culinary world for decades to come.

雖然法國一直被譽為全球美食之都，但不少法國人覺得焦點往往集中在高級法國菜，而忽略了不同地區的佳餚。其實早於1951年，英國美食作家Elizabeth David就寫了一本《法國各省烹飪》 (French

Provincial Cooking) 的書，將法國不同地區的美食發揚光大。

過往，大家對法國菜的認識可能只是由訓練有素的廚師所炮製的精緻佳餚，但這位英國作家所呈現的卻是法式美食較為平易近人的一面。與法國烹飪經典之作《美食小百科》（Larousse

Gastronomique）不同的是，Elizabeth David的煮食貼士更適合烹調日常菜式，因為這樣讀者就能好像圖盧茲和里昂家庭等地的「廚師」一樣，煮出可口的家常菜。

全書以法國各省的簡介作為開端。雖然食譜的對象似乎是二次大戰後英國的家庭主婦，但Elizabeth David對法國不同地方的詳細描寫，令人不禁想到法國的鄉郊一遊，領略當地的美食，好好享受一番。

至於烹飪的指南方面，則是由淺入深：首先是如何為廚房添置裝備，然後是應該買哪些基本的香草和香料等等。本書較後章節的編排頗為順暢，但卻不一定處處條理分明。所提及的課題包括醬料、沙律、湯羹、雞蛋、各種蛋白質豐富的食物（甚至有一個章節是關於法國鄉村十分常見的「各類肉食菜式」）、蔬菜和甜品。作者的文筆清麗，帶我們踏上一段曼妙的法國美食之旅。

現時的美食旅遊電視節目著重突顯食物「性感」的一面，即英語的所謂「food porn」，而Elizabeth David的書寫生動呈現了法式美食和文化多姿多彩的一面，啟發了一代又一代的烹飪書作家以至廚師，數十年來在美食界影響深遠。

鵝肝於過去兩個世紀的非凡歷史

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Foie Gras ExcellenceLegend has it that the first recipe for foie gras pâté was created by a French chef working in Strasbourg named Jean-Pierre Clause. He was the chef of the Marquis de Contades, Louis Georges Érasme, now also often known as Maréchal de Contades. This put foie gras on the map, and quickly made Strasbourg the capital of foie gras.

據說，鵝肝醬的配方是由一位在斯特拉斯堡 (Strasbourg) 工作的法國廚師Jean-Pierre Clause創造出來的。他是特肯塔德斯侯爵（現時較常稱為特肯塔德斯元帥）Louis Georges Érasme的大廚。斯特拉斯堡自此以鵝肝馳名，被譽為「鵝肝之都」。

In 1811, Frédéric Feyel, a baker and confectioner also from Alsace, elevated the status of foie gras further by founding Maison Feyel, with a signature foie gras recipe that graced the dining halls of Europe’s greatest imperial courts. By 1861, Maison Feyel had become the official supplier of foie gras to the court of Napoleon III.

Today, the company continues to be highly coveted by connoisseurs, while remaining family owned (by the Schwebel family). Feyel’s chefs carry on creating foie gras and duck products with the art of gastronomy in mind, working with external chefs and buyers to generate recipes of the highest quality.

Feyel’s foie gras has captured the attention and imagination of gourmands and chefs worldwide thanks to its secret 13-spice blend that brings out foie gras’ unique, luscious qualities. Feyel’s chefs expertly select and meticulously prepare every liver with infinite skill and dexterity. They are then cooked at a low temperature to preserve the aroma and smooth texture of the foie gras. Feyel’s commitment to offering

1811年，同樣來自阿爾薩斯(Alsace) 的麵包和糖果店東主Frédéric

Feyel創立了Maison Feyel，鵝肝的地位亦因此更上一層樓，其招牌鵝肝菜式在歐洲各地宮廷的餐桌上都能找到。到了1861

年，Maison Feyel成為拿破崙三世宮廷的御用鵝肝供應商。

今時今日，該公司的產品仍然深受老饕歡迎，但繼續由施韋貝爾(Schwebel) 家族擁有。Feyel的廚師現時仍然不斷推出各類鵝肝和鴨肝出品，展現飲食藝術的極致。此外，公司亦與其他廚師和買家合作，創造多種最優質菜式。

Feyel鵝肝包含13種香料的秘方，能帶出鵝肝美食的獨特風味，所以一直深受全球各地廚師和美食家的喜愛，多年創造形形色色的佳餚。Feyel的廚師以無盡技巧及匠心，熟練挑選和精心準備每件鵝肝。鵝肝以低溫烹煮，保存其獨有香氣及光滑質感。Feyel致力提供品嚐鴨鵝肝的頂級體驗，無論是生的、即煮、醃製或急凍鴨鵝肝，都體現了Maison Feyel逾兩世紀超卓地位的獨特之處。

雖然鵝肝是公司的星級食材，但Maison Feyel 也提供肝臟以外的美食。Feyel採取同樣的審慎和技巧製作其他特色產品。例如，在鵝頸釀入鵝肝就是相當歷史悠久的美食。此外，鴨胸也可以用

talk fresh

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Foie Gras Excellencea premium foie gras experience, be it raw, par-cooked, preserved or frozen, is what has kept the Maison at the top of its game for the past two centuries.

While foie gras is undoubtedly the star ingredient, the pleasures of poultry go well beyond the liver. Feyel takes the same care and skill in preparing its other specialty products, such as the goose “gourmandise”, an ancient recipe of goose neck stuffed with foie gras. Duck breasts are prepared in several ways, stuffed, and also smoked. For the latter, Feyel’s chefs use a traditional Alsatian recipe, seasoning the breasts with the same secret spice blend and salt the breasts to dry. It is then smoked for at least 24 hours in a highly controlled and specialised environment, using beechwood. Centuries of experience have allowed Maison Feyel to perfect the craft, so that the delicious smoky flavours reach the centre of the breasts, not only the surface. Quail legs, terrines, fine pâtés and rillettes including their Terrine Strasbourgeoise, a classic recipe of which a quarter is pure foie gras, are just some of the sumptuous delicacies with which Feyel tempts.

Feyel has accumulated over two centuries of expertise, and endorsements from tastemakers throughout history, but it isn’t afraid to innovate. Its traditional recipes are adapted for modern applications and tastes, and the Maison remains at the forefront of the epicurean world, spreading the delights of Alsace across the globe. Whether you’re a chef or a gastronome, the joys of Feyel are truly difficult to resist.

不同方式處理，釀或煙燻皆宜。對於後者，Feyel廚師採用傳統的阿爾薩斯配方，以同樣秘方香料調味，並將鴨胸用鹽醃乾。然後，鴨胸會用櫸木在高度控制和專門化的環境中煙燻至少24小時。Maison Feyel幾個世紀的豐富經驗使其工藝爐火純青，美味的煙燻風味直達鴨胸的中心，而不僅流於表層。此外，鵪鶉腿、肉醬、細肉醬、抹醬等等也是Feyel令人垂涎三尺的產品。至於斯特拉斯堡肉醬更是經典配方之一，當中有四分之一是純鵝肝。

Feyel累積超過兩百年的專業經驗，多年來獲一眾美食家稱譽，但公司一直矢志創新、永不停步，其傳統的食譜精益求精，配合現代的做法及口味，所以一直在美食界傲視同儕，將這種阿爾薩斯頂級美食傳遍世界。無論你是廚師抑或美食家，Feyel的美味都會使你難以抗拒。

hot talk

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The Little Red Book「米芝蓮」小紅書

To chefs and restaurateurs, there is little that incites as much fear, love and hate as the Michelin Guide. For some, it is hard to imagine that a guide that can make or break businesses, careers and even lives, began its existence as a free

guide given away by its eponymous tyre manufacturer.

對一眾廚師和餐廳東主而言，米芝蓮指南是許多恩怨愛恨的來源。不少人覺得餐廳、事業甚至是生命繫於這一本小書上，實在是匪夷所思。事實上，最初米芝蓮指南只是同名輪胎製造商免費派發的一本小冊子而已。

這一切源於1900年，法國兄弟André

Michelin和Édouard Michelin想出了向駕駛者免費派發旅遊指南這個創新的想法。他們希望鼓勵駕駛者更經常出門駕車，這樣對輪胎的需求就會大增。最初，指南所包含的內容五花八門，包括實用的駕駛資訊（例如地圖和加油站的位置）以至旅遊提示（例如酒店和餐廳建議）。

直到1926年，這本旅遊指南比較接近現時的樣子。從那一年起，小冊子不再免費派發，而廣告也從此消失。這意味著該指南無需再顧及廣告客戶的利益，而即使是今時今日，這種又愛又恨的關係，仍然困擾著編輯和出版商。也是在這一年，米芝蓮指南開始以星星來評價餐廳。在1926年至1930

年期間，一顆星代表餐廳相當不俗；但到了1931年，現在廣為人知的一至三星的制度誕生，而指南亦以搶眼的紅色作為封面。

星級的評定制度也反映了出版者與輪胎公司及駕駛者的淵源和用語：一星表示「同類餐廳中的出色一員」；

兩星指「烹飪非常出色，可繞道前往」；而三星則代表「菜式超卓，值得專誠前往」。

It all started in 1900 when French brothers André and Édouard Michelin came up with the ingenious concept to give away travel guides to motorists. Encouraging them to travel more in their cars would mean more demand for their tyres. Initially, the guides included a range of content, including practical motoring information, such as maps and petrol station locations, but also travel advice, such as hotel and restaurant recommendations.

It wasn’t until 1926 that the guides became closer to what they are today. From that year onwards, they were no longer given out for free, and advertising was gotten rid of. This meant that they were now independent of advertiser interests – a contentious aspect of publishing that troubles editors and publishers till this day. This was also the year they began labelling top restaurants with a star. Between 1926 and 1930, just a single star marked a good restaurant, but in 1931, the now-familiar three-tiered star system was born, as was the distinctive red cover.

hot talk

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米芝蓮的傳統一直延續下來，現時米芝蓮指南擁有14個不同版本，有些涵蓋整個地區，而另一些則針對單一國家或城市。

為甚麼米芝蓮指南會變得如此流行，成為大家的覓食寶典？對此人們可謂眾說紛紜。有人說是因為米芝蓮最早採取易記的星級制度；另一些人則認為可能在於米芝蓮是第一本衝出法語國家的類似刊物（1956年率先推出意大利版）。此外，也有人指出是其視察員的行動隱秘，所以令餐廳東主戰戰兢兢，也令所有人都十分好奇。

視察員以及其評審準則秘而不傳，一直都是人們爭論不休的話題，其圈子就像一個教派般令人好奇。在餐桌上，即使是平日對飲食界不太感興趣的人都會問：「如果我們不知道視察員是否曾經到訪，又怎樣知道指南的資訊是否最新和準確？」或者是「所有視察員都是法國人嗎？如果是的話，他們是否有資格評定非法國菜餐廳？」米芝蓮會負責支付所有視察員的賬單，以確保徹底的獨立性。有些人則會問：「米芝蓮指南是否有足夠的預算，讓視察員每年光顧各大小餐廳？」

當然在餐廳評級這個領域中，米芝蓮也有不少對手，例如Henri

Gault和Christian Millau兩位食評家在1965年所創立的Gault

Millau。不過該指南只涉及法國、比利時、盧森堡和荷蘭的餐廳，全球覆蓋面相當有限，加上其擁有權的問題，所以影響力有限。

最近幾年，「全球餐廳50強」(World’s 50 Best Restaurants) 的排名越來越受重視，該名單每年會根據世界各地6,500名飲食界專業人士的投票，選出數十間最佳的餐廳。名單的主編William Drew

指出，他們的目的並非是要取代米芝蓮，而是希望創立一份由飲食記者和餐廳東主等業內人士評定的全球最佳餐廳名單。由於視察員包括餐廳東主，難免令人質疑排名的可信性。儘管如此，自2002年推出以來，名單的認受性有增無減。

似乎餐飲業對排名及獎項的執著會一直延續下去。

True to its motoring history, the stars are defined in a motorist’s terms. One star means “A very good restaurant in its category; two stars means “Excellent cooking, worth a detour”; and three stars is described as “Exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey”.

This tradition continues, and the range of Michelin restaurant guides now spans 14 titles, some covering whole regions, others countries and yet others single cities. It is difficult to say exactly why the Michelin guides gained such credibility and popularity over time. Perhaps it was because it was one of the earliest restaurant guides to adopt an easy-to-remember system, or maybe it helped that it was one of the earliest to branch out beyond French-speaking countries (the first guide to Italy was published in 1956), or it could be that the secrecy of Michelin inspectors keeps restaurants on their toes, and everyone else mightily curious.

The secrecy of the inspectors and their scoring criteria has always been subject to intense debate, and it shrouded with as much mythology as a cult. Questions like, ‘How do we know that the guide is up to date and accurate if we aren’t told if an inspector has visited?’ or ‘Are all inspectors French, and if so, are they suitable for judging non-French restaurants?’ are heard at any dinner table with diners even slightly interested in the culinary sphere. While inspectors’ meals are fully paid for by Michelin for full independence, some also raise the question of whether the guide has sufficient budget for inspectors to visit every year.

In the world of restaurant rankings, Michelin has had its contenders, one of which was Gault Millau, launched by two restaurant reviewers Henri Gault and Christian Millau in 1965, but with insignificant international expansion and ownership issues, the guide’s influence has remained small, with titles only covering France, Belgium, Luxembourg and the Netherlands.

More recently has been the rise of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants ranking, an annual list of restaurants based on the votes of 6500 food professionals around the globe. According to the editor of the list, William Drew, their goal is not to replace the Michelin, but to give an overview of the world’s top restaurants, as rated by people in the industry, which includes food journalists and restaurateurs. The fact that restaurateurs are included in the panel raises doubts about the credibility of the rankings, but since its launch in 2002, the profile of the awards has only increased.

It seems that the restaurant world’s obsession with rankings and awards might never end.

18

A Memorable Feast難忘的美食之旅

France has many treasures as David Wong finds out on a recent

gourmet discovery trip.

法國美好的事物數之不盡，而David Wong最近開展了一次法

蘭西之旅，遍尋當地各種美食。

Leaving behind a wet and rainy Hong Kong/Macau in late May, I headed to sunny France, as part of the Angliss gourmet discovery trip. After landing in Paris, we bound straight for Nantes, famous as the birthplace of novelist Jules Vernes, the Loire river and of course, Muscadet wines.

A lovely dinner was hosted by Alain Francoise and Christophe Jakubowski from Feyel-Artznerat restaurant L’u.ni in town where we tried out the local specialities including delicious foie gras dishes with delightful wines from

the Loire Valley. The next morning, we visited the offices of Alain Francoise followed by the Feyel-Artzner farms.The company has been providing fine foie gras since 1803 and is one of the oldest in France.

Soon after a quick lunch, we headed for Riec sur Belon, where “Mr Oyster”, Jean-Jacques Cadoret greeted us with the most amazing fresh and juicy oysters straight from the Belon River. The Cadoret name is in itself a label for flat oysters and has provided the best quality oysters by means of love, passion and work since 1880, over 5 generations. The next morning was a

五月將盡的時候，無論是香港抑或澳門，都是潮濕多雨的時節。我收拾行裝前往陽光明媚的法國，參加安得利的美食發現之旅。甫抵達巴黎，我們就馬上驅車前往著名小說家Jules Vernes的出生地南特 (Nantes)。當地以盧瓦爾河而聞名，當然還少不了密斯卡得 (Muscadet) 美酒。

Alain Francoise及Christophe Jakubowski在Feyel-Artznerat於鎮內的餐廳L’u.ni為我們準備了豐盛的晚宴。晚宴中除了有鵝肝等地道美食外，還有盧瓦爾河流域出產的美酒。翌日早上，我們參觀了Alain Francoise的辦公室，然後前往Feyel-Artzner旗下的農場。該公司從1803年開始已經供應優質的法國鵝肝，在法國歷史數一數二。

在簡單的午餐後，我們前往貝隆河畔的列西 (Riec sur Belon)，由「生蠔先生」之稱的Jean-Jacques Cadoret熱情款待，他為我們準備了貝隆河最新鮮多汁的多款生蠔。事實上，Cadoret本身就是平身生蠔的一個著名品牌，自從1880年以來，超過五代人一直致力提供最優質的生蠔，盡顯其對這種美食的熱愛。第二天早上，我們驅車前往英吉利海峽海岸上的卡拉泰克(Carantec)，在該市的邊界內有一個稱為卡洛島(Île Callot)的小島。以小艇參觀Cadoret的蠔場是一趟奇妙的旅程，生蠔隨處可見，令人親身體會到何謂莎翁所謂的「世界是我的牡蠣」。

19

special report

About David Wong

David Wong is the executive assistant manager at the

Macau Institute for Tourism Studies (IFT), author of The Art

of Modern Portuguese Cuisine and founder of the Macau

Culinary Association. He also writes wine and food columns

for the South China Morning Post and Hong Kong Tatler.

關於David Wong

David Wong為澳門旅遊學院的行政助理經理、《現代葡萄牙美食藝術》 (The Art of Modern Portuguese Cuisine) 一書的作者，以及澳門廚藝協會的創始人。此外，他還為《南華早報》及香港《Tatler》雜誌撰寫葡萄酒和美食專欄。

drive to Carantec, which is on the coast of the English Channel and contains a small island within its boundaries, Île Callot. Visiting the Cadoret farms by boat was quite an adventure and I felt that the world was indeed my oyster.

The following day was a two-hour drive to visit the Caviar de Sologne farm, where Keyan Eslamdoust and the Hennequart family warmly greeted us. A stroll through the magnificent sturgeon fish farms and seeing how caviar is processed was fascinating. Caviar Sologne is one of the finest caviars legally available today and comes from the sturgeon fish, originally from Siberia but is now quietly and carefully raised in St. Viatre in the heart of the Sologne. The area owes its special character to the charm of the villages dotted around the vast expanses of forestland, moors and lakes. Lunch at the farm house was simply opulent and scrumptious – caviar with blinis, smoked salmon, fresh king crab, with Champagne and vodka flowing. After a banquet fit for a king, we headed back to Paris.

At an early start of 3:00 am, we departed for Rungis market to visit the fish and seafood, meat and poultry, cheese, fruit and vegetable markets. One thousand years ago a farmer’s market was established in Paris. Today it is known as the Rungis International Food Market but until 1969 it was fondly known as Les Halles. Being the largest food market in the world, it was an unforgettable experience for us to savour the sights and sounds of this institution.

The next morning we made plans to return and reflected on the highlights of our trip with Alain Francois, Feyel-Artzner Foie Gras, Cadoret Oysters, Sologne Caviar and Rungis. The people I met, who are incredibly welcoming and friendly, have passion for the product that makes our life as a consumer more interesting. In France, we experience the how and where our products come. I left feeling like I had much more to learn and with a great desire to return one day and that I will not say goodbye but indeed au revoir!

A million thanks to the Angliss Macau Food Service and Gourmet Cuisine team for arranging this wonderful gourmet trip.

接下來的一天，我們開了兩個小時的車去參觀Caviar

de Sologne農場，Keyan

Eslamdoust和Hennequart一家熱情地歡迎我們。至於其後參觀鱘魚場，親眼目睹魚子醬的加工過程，更令我們眼界大開。索洛涅魚子醬 (Caviar Sologne) 是今時今日可以合法取得的最優質魚子醬，這些鱘魚最初來自西伯利亞，但現時在索洛涅靜謐的中心地帶聖維亞他 (St. Viatre) 悉心養殖。當地附近擁有大片林地、沼澤和湖泊，村落排列有致，別具風味。其後，我們在農場進午膳，當中包括魚子醬薄餅、煙熏三文魚、新鮮帝王蟹以及香檳和伏特加，十分美味！在一頓豐富的午餐後，我們踏上返回巴黎的歸程。

第二天的凌晨三時，我們帶著惺忪的睡眼，前往翰吉斯(Rungis)市場，該集市專門出售魚類、海鮮、肉類、家禽、芝士、水果和蔬菜等新鮮食品。這個農夫市場在一千年前就在巴黎成立，多年來叫做Les Halles，直至1969年改名為翰吉斯國際食品市場並沿用至今。這是全球最大的新鮮食品市場，在這裡的一事一物都令我印象深刻。

最後一日的早上，我們收拾行裝，並總結這幾天的難忘旅程。我們與Alain Francois會面，參觀了Feyel-Artzner旗下的農場，品嚐了鵝肝美食，並參觀了Cadoret蠔場、Sologne Caviar農場及翰吉斯(Rungis)市場。我們在當地所遇到的人都非常熱情友善，對其出品充滿熱愛，而當地的產品亦確實令我們作為消費者更感到豐盛美滿。在法國，我們深入體驗產地和生產過程。離開之際，我覺得自己可以學的還有很多，並希望有一天能重遊當地。我多麼不想說「再見」，但某天我們一定會再見！

衷心感謝安得利澳門飲食服務有限公司及高美食材香港有限公司安排這次難忘的美食之旅。

20

chef’s talk

The Protégé青 出 於 藍

Gilles Reinhardt is one of Paul Bocuse’s protégés, and executive chef of

Bocuse’s award winning restaurant L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges,

in Collonges-au-Mont-d’Or, near Lyon in France. So iconic that the

restaurant is sometimes just called “Bocuse”, it also has three Michelin

stars. Reinhardt is a Meilleur Ouvrier de France (MOF), the highest

achievement in France awarded to artisans and craftsmen. We spoke

to him when he was in Hong Kong for a guest chef promotion at H

One restaurant.

Gilles Reinhardt是名廚Paul Bocuse的徒弟之一，現為Bocuse旗下獲獎餐廳L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges的行政總廚。這間餐廳位於法國的Collonges-au-Mont-d’Or，距離里昂不遠。由於餐廳極具代表性，而且榮獲米芝蓮三星的美譽，所以人們有時只叫它「Bocuse」。Reinhardt曾獲頒法國最佳工藝大獎(Meilleur Ouvrier de France) (簡稱MOF)，為該國授予工匠和技師的最高榮譽。他最近到了香港在H One餐廳擔任客席廚師，並參與推廣活動。我們藉此機會與他進行了一次訪問。

Where are you from, and how did you end up in cooking? Was it fate, a dream or circumstance?I’ve wanted to be in this profession since I was very little. My mother is a very good cook. It was her who taught me about scents, and the desire to cook. I went to cooking school, and then I found work at high-end restaurants.

How did you get a job with Paul Bocuse?You work a lot. You sacrifice a lot. Like on Fridays and Saturdays when your friends are at the disco, you’re working, and then you have to go to bed right after to get enough rest for work the next morning. On Christmases and new years, when others are celebrating, we’re working. But in our work, you’ll find that when you work [hard], you are given opportunities and make connections.

你來自哪裡，為什麼會成為廚師？是命運、夢想抑或只是因緣際會？我自少已經很想成為廚師。我媽媽很會煮菜。是她教曉我辨別食物的味道，我對烹飪的熱情也拜她所賜。其後我到烹飪學校學習，然後我到了一些高級餐廳工作。

你是怎樣成為Paul Bocuse的門生的？我很努力工作，犧牲也很大。舉例來說，有時週五、週六朋友們會到的士高玩樂，但我還在工作，完工後回家還要爭取時間睡眠，才能應付第二天早上的工作。至於在聖誕節和新年，當別人都在興高采烈地慶祝時，我往往正在埋頭苦幹。但是，在辛勤工作的同時，我得到不少機會，而且與業內人士建立起關係和聯繫。

21

chef’s talk

“...when (Paul Bocuse) gives you a chance, you need to take work seriously”

“...Paul Bocuse給我一個機會一試身手，所以我便全力以赴”

與全球首屈一指的大廚Paul Bocuse一起工作是怎樣的？毫無疑問，他是舉世知名的廚師。他的餐廳自從1965年便奪得三粒米芝蓮之星。他給我一個機會一試身手，所以我便全力以赴。任何時候，他都有非常嚴格的要求，跟他一起工作就像從軍一樣。但其實這絕對不是壞事！

獲頒MOF，對你有甚麼改變嗎？其實沒有甚麼變化。也許我需要更加留神，因為我需要不斷證明自己是法國最佳廚師之一。要在這項大獎中脫穎而出並不容易，但在我們的專業中，努力建立自己的聲望非常重要，而獲頒MOF就是一種肯定。如果我沒有奪得那個大獎，我絕不能有現時的地位。

你去年來過這裡，你眼中香港是一個怎樣的城市？我上一次也是來H One擔任客席廚師，參與推廣活動。一切也很順利，人們非常受落，而我的客戶對我說：「你下次一定要再來。」香港是一個無論甚麼東西都希望走在人前的城市，無論是商業抑或其他。這裡朝氣勃勃，去到哪裡都人頭湧湧。在這裡生活總是熱熱鬧鬧的。

你是否覺得自己需要為香港人度身訂造餐單？如果是的話，那份餐單是怎樣的？ 我們必須適應亞洲口味，例如，甜品的甜度應減低，因為我們知道亞洲人不喜歡太甜的東西。此外，我們也減少了肉類、奶油和醬汁的分量。廚房的擺設也不同，在這裡有一些局限，但也有一些其他地方所無的東西。坐在外面的食客不太會留意到，我們身為廚師，卻受到影響。有許多法國廚師在香港的高級餐廳工作，所以如果需要甚麼食材，可以致電他們，告訴他們所需炮製的食物，問題往往就能應刃而解。提前做好準備是非常必要的，但經過一段時間這是會成為習慣的。麵粉就是典型的例子。由於麵粉在這裡的反應不盡相同，我們需要針對香港修改固有的食譜。此外，糖也可能有不同的反應，它在這裡軟化得較快。

你對年青廚師有甚麼忠告？就是努力工作。在法國，我會告訴年青廚師在最初的十年工作生涯只需埋頭工作。十年過後，當他們掌握到實際技能後，就可以較從容地烹煮食物，甚至是享受當中的過程，以及賺一點錢。但做廚師開始時往往是刻苦的。

What is it like to work with one of the most recognised chefs in the world, Paul Bocuse?He’s the most well known chef in the world. He’s had three Michelin stars since 1965 and when he gives you a chance, you need to take work seriously. It’s rigorous, it’s like being in the military, all the time. It’s not bad!

Does being a MOF change you? Not really. Maybe it keeps you on your toes because you need to constantly prove that you belong to the best (group of chefs in France). The competition is very difficult, but in our profession, you learn your own way of working and being an MOF is a continuation of that. If I didn’t get the title, I wouldn’t be where I am now.

You came to Hong Kong last year, how did you find it?I came for the same promotion (guest chef at H One), it went well, and people liked it, and the ‘big boss’ said, “You should come back”. This city is all about getting ahead, be it business or otherwise. It’s a buzzing city – when you go out, people are everywhere. Life is always effervescent here.

Did you feel you had to tailor your menu for Hong Kong? If so, how? We had to adapt to Asian tastes, for example, desserts that are less sweet, because we know that they don’t like things too sweet. We reduce the portion size of the meats, cream and sauce. The kitchen is set up differently – there are things we can and can’t do – it’s not obvious to the diners sitting outside (but it affects us). There are many French chefs in Hong Kong working at gourmet restaurants, so for the ingredients, we can call them and explain what kind of produce I’d like (and they can help). It’s true that you must prepare well in advance, but after a while it becomes a habit (to be well prepared). Flour is a classic example – we had to alter the recipes (for Hong Kong), because the flour reacts differently. Sugar can react differently too, it softens (quickly).

What would be your advice to young chefs?Work, work and work. In France, we tell young chefs that they needn’t talk about cooking in the first ten years of working. After ten years, when they have the practical skills, then they can begin to play around with food, enjoy, and make money. At the beginning, it’s very difficult.

焦糖反烤蘋果撻的奇趣歷史

22

There is little dispute that tarte tatin, the upside-down apple tart with pastry on top, was created by sisters Stephanie and Caroline Tatin. They operated a small countryside hotel in the late 1800s named Hotel Tatin, in the town of Lamotte-Beuvron in central France, which was passed down from their father. The hotel, which still stands today, is near a train station and was therefore popular with travellers.

法式焦糖「反轉」蘋果撻是由Stephanie Tatin和Caroline Tatin兩姊妹發明的，這幾乎是不爭的事實。在19世紀末，她們於法國中部拉莫特-伯夫龍(Lamotte-Beuvron)這個小鎮經營從父輩繼承的鄉郊酒店Hotel Tatin。時至今日，該酒店仍然屹立不倒，此外由於靠近火車站，所以深受旅客歡迎。

However, as the Tatin sisters never published anything about the tart’s origins, no one seems to have the same story. According to Hotel Tartin’s records, most likely written after the sisters passed away, there was a customer who came in one day and was in a hurry, possibly with a train to catch. Stephanie and Caroline were deep in conversation, and a little slow in serving this particular customer. He got annoyed towards the end of his meal, and the sisters became flustered as they had forgotten about preparing his dessert.

Seeing a plate of peeled apples, Stephanie hastily threw them into a pan, along with butter and sugar, and into the oven. But she couldn’t just serve the cooked apples on their own. Finding a bit of pastry lying around, she covered the pan

儘管如此，由於Tatin兩姊妹從未以文字記錄她們的發明，所以究竟有甚麼契機觸發了她們的靈感，可謂眾說紛紜。該酒店有一份相關的紀錄，但很有可能是在兩姊妹過身後才寫成的。根據該份紀錄，有一天一位行色匆匆的客人進入酒店用餐，也許要趕搭火車。兩姊妹剛好有些事正在熱烈討論著，所以招呼這位客人時有點怠慢。他用餐時到最後已經不大高興，而兩姊妹更突然發現忘了為他準備甜品，二人頓時有些慌亂。這時Stephanie看到有一盤去了皮的蘋果，於是急忙把它們拋進平底鍋內，加入牛油和砂糖，然後放入焗爐。但單是端上已煮過的蘋果，並不能成為一道甜品。這時她又找到一點餡皮，於是放進平底鍋，然後將整隻平底鍋連同蘋果放入焗爐。當餡皮焗好時，她心想應該如何將此一「甜品」拿出廚房奉客，心急之下，她就想到用一隻碟把平底鍋蓋著，然後將鍋內的東西反轉。

除此以外，這個故事也有另一個版本：Stephanie（大家似乎認定了是她而不是Caroline負責為客人烹飪菜式）有一天幾乎將蘋果燒

slice of the past

23

with it, and returned the whole thing to the oven. When it was done, she had to find a way to present it, and in desperation, she thought of covering the pan with a plate and flipping the pan’s contents over.

Another version has Stephanie (it is assumed that she was in charge of the kitchen as opposed to Caroline) almost burning the apples, and dropping the pan upside down due to carelessness and finding the flipped tart decent enough to serve. Either way, it was a hit with not only the hurried customer that day, but with customers later on. Soon, word spread that this inventive new tart was delicious – regular visitors to Hotel Tatin demanded it, and began to recommend it to their friends.

The first printed mention of the tart was in a local bulletin in 1903 about a train voyage that passed through Hotel Tatin. In the text, it appears that the reader is already supposed to know what a tarte Tatin is, so word may have spread before this date. The writer says, “Since it is late in the winter, it is also the last tarte Tatin of the season for the hotel…”

It even attracted the attention of well-loved French food writer Maurice Saillard, who wrote under the pen name of Curmonsky. In his celebrated multi-volume book La France Gastronomique, which is dedicated to the regional cuisine of France and was published progressively throughout the 1920s, he dedicates a section to Tarte Tatin, naming the sisters as its originators. Some say that it was Curmonsky’s writing that popularised the dessert.

It appeared on the menu at the infamous Parisian restaurant Maxim’s in the 1930s. One of the owners, Louis Vaudable, claims that he went undercover, as a gardener, to Hotel Tatin and learned the recipe.

That story is amusing, but even if he did learn to make the tarte at the hotel, he couldn’t have learned it from the sisters, as Vaudable didn’t take over Maxim’s until 1932, and the sisters passed away in 1911 and 1917 respectively.

Today, this method of making tarts has been applied to fillings other than apples, including savoury ones, such as tomatoes or onions.

焦，其後甚至不小心將平底鍋倒轉跌到地上。但令人意外的是，這個反轉了的蘋果撻味道也不錯。無論真相如何，當天趕路的旅客以至後來的食客，都對這款甜品鍾愛有加。不久之後，對於這種別出心裁的蘋果撻之美言不脛而走，不單Hotel Tatin的常客會點這款美食，他們甚至會推薦給親朋好友。

在1903年，一份當地的出版刊物談及一次經過Hotel Tatin的火車旅程，內容中就首次出現了這種蘋果撻的名字。文章似乎假設讀者已經知悉這種反烤蘋果撻是什麼，所以在這之前蘋果撻的故事應該已有一番流傳。作者指出：「時節已是隆冬，而這間酒店供應的是當年最後的一個蘋果撻……」

以筆名Curmonsky寫作的法國美食作家Maurice Saillard在該國深受歡迎，其著作也有提及這種甜品。Maurice Saillard多卷名著《法國美食》(La France Gastronomique) 乃關於法國各地的美食，在1920年代先後出版。書中有一章是關於焦糖反烤蘋果撻，而依他所言，上述兩姊妹是這種蘋果撻的原創者。事實上，有人更認為是Curmonsky的著作使這種甜品聲名遠播。

在1930年代，美心(Maxim’s)這間巴黎餐廳相當著名，在其餐牌上也有這款甜品的名字。餐廳的東主之一Louis Vaudable聲稱他曾到Hotel Tatin應徵園丁，以「間諜」身份取得製作蘋果撻的秘技。這個故事無疑相當惹笑，但即使Louis曾在該酒店學藝，也不可能師承Stephanie Tatin和Caroline Tatin，原因是他在1932年才接手經營美心(Maxim’s)，而兩姊妹分別在1911年和1917年就撒手人寰了。

今時今日，這種反轉烤撻方法已應用到蘋果以外的餡料，包括蕃茄和洋蔥等鹹味餡料。

talk of the town

24

Mira Moon

After the Mira in Tsim Sha

Tsui, The Miramar Group has

brought another design-led

hotel to Hong Kong. At 91

rooms, Mira Moon isn’t quite

as ‘boutique’ as it will have

you believe, but its quirky

design and outré offerings,

such as Chinese-Spanish

fusion restaurant Supergiant,

will no doubt attract guests

looking for something a little

left of field.

Mira Moon

388 Jaffe Road

Wanchai, HK

www.miramoonhotel.com

Have a Greek TimeA relative rarity for Hong

Kong, a modern Greek

restaurant has just opened

its doors in the competitive

Lan Kwai Fong area. Like

its sister restaurants Tapeo,

Chicha and Frites, Souvla

offers classics like saganaki

and grilled meats in a

modern, casual setting.

Souvla

1/F Ho Lee Commercial Bldg

40 D’Aguilar Street

Central, HK

Korean is Hot

Asia has been on a K-pop

high for the past few years,

and now even hip Korean

restaurants have arrived in

Hong Kong. School Food

was founded by ex-Korean

singer Lee Sang-yoon in

2003. Ten years later, his

sushi-like ‘Mari’ rolls have

become a modern legend,

as has a range of extremely

spicy dishes utilising classic

Korean sauces.

School Food

13/F Times Square

1 Matheson Street

Causeway Bay, HK

www.schoolfood.hk

Hong Kong Government Bans Shark’s FinThe Hong Kong Government

has seemingly bowed

to public pressure on

its stance regarding the

controversial ingredient,

shark’s fin. They have

recently announced that

shark’s fin will not be served

at official banquets “to

demonstrate its commitment

to the promotion of green

living and sustainability”.

However, in reality, the

Government has rarely

served shark’s fin in the past

due to budget constraints.

Hong Kong International Wine & Spirits Fair

This trade-only annual event

is now in its sixth year, and

is now regarded as one of

Hong Kong’s most important

wine fair. Last year, hosted

around 950 exhibitors,

bringing producers and

熱辣韓風韓流在過去幾年席捲亞洲，而現在，時尚的韓國餐廳亦相繼落戶香港。曾是韓國歌手的李相潤在2003年創立School

Food餐廳。十年後，他那酷似壽司的Mari卷，以及該餐廳供應的多款極辣、使用傳統韓式醬汁的菜式，不失成為現代韓菜傳奇。

香港銅鑼灣勿地臣街1號時代廣場13樓www.schoolfood.hk

香港政府禁食魚翅

對於魚翅這種備受爭議的食材，香港政府似乎已向公眾壓力屈服。當局最近宣佈在其官方宴會中將不再供應魚翅，「以展示其對促進綠色生活和可持續發展的承諾」。但事實上，政府過去由於預算有限，很少在宴會中供應魚翅。

香港國際美酒展這業內唯一的年度盛會今年迎來了第六個年頭，並被視為香港最重要的葡萄酒博覽會之一。去年，約950家參展商參展，吸引了來自36個國家的生產商和出口商以及眾多亞洲專業人士。今年的展覽同樣令人印象深刻，除了展示多款酒類相關產品的攤位外，亦設有研討會和品酒環節。此外，大會將同場舉辦葡萄酒產業高峰論壇，而品酒教育區內亦會舉行一系列大師班和品酒會 （是次活動的最後一天會向公眾開放）。

11月7日至9日香港灣仔博覽道1號香港會議展覽中心www.hkcec.com

exporters from 36 countries

to Asian professionals. This

year’s exhibition will be

no less impressive, with

conferences and tastings in

addition to stands displaying

a wide range of wine-related

products. It will also host

the Wine Industry Summit,

as well as a Wine Education

Zone with a range of

masterclasses and tastings.

(The event is open to the

public on the final day).

7-9 Nov

Hong Kong Convention &

Exhibition Centre

www.hkcec.com

Mira Moon繼Mira酒店在尖沙咀開業之後，美麗華集團又為香港帶來一間設計時尚的酒店。這間擁有91間客房的Mira Moon雖然不是您想像中的傳統「精品酒店」，但其設計非常奇特出位，而且擁有十分獨特的餐廳。例如，Supergiant餐廳提供結合中式和西班牙式的融合菜，定能吸引希望享受另類體驗的賓客。

香港灣仔謝斐道388號www.miramoonhotel.com

靜享希臘時光現代希臘餐廳在香港不算多，而最近，就有一間已在競爭激烈的蘭桂芳落戶。與其姊妹餐廳Tapeo、Chicha 和 Frites一樣，舒適雅緻而極具現代感的Souvla餐廳亦提供香煎脆皮芝士(saganaki) 和烤肉等招牌菜式。

Souvla

香港中環德己立街40號好利商業大廈1樓

25

talk of the globe

Blown Away by Luxury in the Windy City

Hong Kong-based Langham

Hospitality Group opens The

Langham Chicago, a plush

316-room hotel on the Chicago

River. Housed in a building

designed by legendary

architect Mies van der Rohe,

the hotel features a high-end

Mediterranean restaurant,

Travelle, as well as Tiffin, the

lounge for the Langham’s

famed afternoon tea.

The Langham, Chicago

330 North Wabash Avenue

Chicago, IL 60611, USA

The Peach Gets Bigger

David Chang has already

become something of a

contemporary legend in the

food and beverage world.

With numerous restaurants,

bars and pastry shops covering

the United States, Canada

and Australia under the

Momofuku Restaurant Group,

he continues to capture the

minds of food lovers around

the world by owning and

publishing Lucky Peach, a

magazine he started in 2011.

Recently it was announced

that the magazine would

leave its founding publisher

McSweeny’s and be published

by their own Lucky Peach

Media Group.

www.lky.ph

Train-ing Restaurant

Train stations were once

gastronomic deserts, but

chef Eric Fréchon has

changed that by opening

Lazare, located right at the

entrance of the busy Saint-

Lazare train station in Paris’s

busy 8th arrondissement.

What’s more (and rare for

France), it’s open all seven

days of the week, 7.30am

to midnight, serving classic,

family-style French plates.

Lazare

Gare Saint-Lazare

Rue Intérieure

Paris 75008, France

www.lazare-paris.fr

Salon de la GastronomieIn the face of modernisation,

globalisation & standardisation

of food, the Salon de

la Gastronomie heralds

artisanal, location-specific

specialty foods of the

different regions of France.

From bread to wine, to

cheese, tea and foie gras,

this is an event for those

who are looking for the

best boutique producers in

France, in a location just 1.5

hours from Paris.

8-11 Nov

Parc des Expositions de

l’Agglomération Troyenne

20, rue des Gayettes

Troyes 10000, France

www.troyes-expo.com

International Luxury Travel Market

ILTM is one of the world’s

most exclusive hospitality

events for global luxury

travel. Rub shoulders with

the best in the business of

luxury with their custom

meeting services and

networking events.

2-5 Dec

Palais des festivals

Cannes, France

www.iltm.net

奢華風席捲風城總部位於香港的朗廷酒店集團進軍美國芝加哥，在芝加哥河畔建造了有316間豪華客房的芝加哥朗廷酒店。由傳奇建築師Mies van der Rohe親自操刀設計，除擁有高端奢華的Travelle地中海餐廳之外，大堂還設有Tiffin茶餐廳，提供朗廷酒店的經典下午茶。

美食雜誌新發展David Chang已經成為了當代飲食界的傳奇人物。他的Momofuku餐飲集團旗下擁有眾多餐館、酒吧和糕點店，遍佈美國、加拿大和澳洲。此外，他還在2011年創辦了Lucky Peach美食雜誌，繼續剌激着全球饕民的味蕾。最近，該雜誌宣佈將脫離其創始出版商McSweeny’s，由Lucky Peach

Media Group自行出版。

火車站上的餐廳

人們通常很難將美食與火車站聯繫起來，但大廚Eric

Fréchon 卻以其新開的Lazare

改變了這一固有思維。Lazare

餐廳位於巴黎第八區繁忙的聖拉扎爾火車站入口。更有趣的是，該餐廳一週七天、上午7時30分至午夜營業（在法國是很罕見的），供應經典的法國家常菜式。

美食沙龍

隨著飲食越趨現代化、全球化和標準化，美食沙龍(Salon

de la Gastronomie)向人們展示法國不同地區的傳統手工佳餚。從麵包到葡萄酒、再到芝士、茶和鵝肝，應有盡有。對於希望尋找最上乘的法國美食生產商之人士，於11月8-11

日，在距離巴黎僅1.5小時車程的Parc des Expositions de

l’Agglomération Troyenne所舉行的美食沙龍絕對不容錯過。

國際尊貴旅遊展覽活動將於12月2-5日在法國康城之Palais des festivals舉行。這個只供業界出席的活動，除了是業界人士及尊貴旅遊家交流聯誼的平台，更讓他們了解什麽是最優秀度身訂造的尊貴旅遊產品和服務

26

sweet talk

The Sweet Smell of SuccessFrom a dishwasher to running her own pastry kitchen, Lily Wang Yuan Li, Regional Pastry Chef at Sofitel Guangzhou Sunrich, has come a long way in her 28 years of working in hotels. She talks to us about her journey, and what it’s like to work for a French hotel group.

王原莉從事酒店業已有28年之久。她曾經在廚房洗碗，而今時今日則貴為廣州聖豐索菲特大酒店的區域糕點總廚，經營自己的糕點廚房。一路走來，實在不簡單。在此次訪問中，她會與我們分享人生經歷以及為索菲特這間法國酒店工作的一點一滴。

Tell us a bit about yourself. Have you always wanted to be a chef, and a pastry chef in particular, or was it just fate?It wasn’t really a dream. I started cooking when I was 9. I was pretty interested in cooking. During summer and winter holidays, I would make steamed buns and rice porridge at home because I didn’t have much else to do. Unlike boys, us girls tended to stay indoors, so I would help out at home. Both my parents had to work, so I would cook by myself. My first job at a hotel was washing dishes. The hotel was opening soon, and I was hired, and that was all that mattered. We rotated through the different kitchens in the hotel. The pastry kitchen was always emanating delicious fragrances. About a year after I started working there, the pastry chef told me they had a vacancy, and asked me if I wanted to join them. When I first started, I didn’t think I was going to make this my career, but when guests ate the cakes I made and said they liked it, I felt really happy. Later, someone told me that pastry chefs have the best job, because everyone feels happy after eating sweets.

You spent some time training in Paris. Were there things you learned or observed there that were new to you? A lot. I joined Accor Group [which owns Sofitel] in 2003. It was my first time in a French company. In my previous experience, I worked with Filipino and German chefs, so I wasn’t as familiar with French chefs or kitchens. French chefs are always creating, they never stop. Of course, they retain traditional techniques, like pâte à choux, but they make them into other shapes, add chocolate, cream, sugar, and make Saint Honorés, Paris Brests and so on.

27

sweet talk

“some customers don’t like (our French pastries) because they don’t know what real French cakes taste like”

“但有些客人不太喜歡[我們的地道法式糕點]，因為他們不知道何謂真正的法式甜品”

What do you think of the quality of pastry in China? What has to be done to bring it up to European standards?I think the quality of pastry in China is continuously on the rise. Think about the cakes we used to have: we used to use artificial cream, but you don’t see as many of those anymore, we’ve learned the difference. The difference in quality between China and Europe is not as great anymore, but for China’s pastries to improve, we need people with better skills, but also customers with better knowledge of pastry. When we make authentic French pastries, some customers don’t like them because they don’t know what real French cakes taste like.

Patisserie relies on very precise measurements and meticulous craftsmanship, as well as creativity. So is patisserie an art or a science?You need to be good at a lot of things like science and maths, as well as art and design. I think pastry is both art and science. It needs to keep its shape and look nice when the guest sees it, but it also has to taste good.

Which is more important, taste or aesthetics?Both are important, but personally, I think taste matters more. Cakes are for eating, so it must taste good, but the look of it attracts people to go and taste it.

可否簡單介紹一下自己。你是否從小就想當廚師或糕點師傅，抑或只是因緣際遇？算不上是夢想。我九歲就開始煮飯燒菜。我對烹飪興趣頗濃。寒暑假時，我沒事可做，所以會在家蒸包子和煮粥。和男孩不同，我們女生往往會留在家裡，所以就幫忙做點家事。我的父母都要工作，所以我要自己煮食。我在酒店的第一份工作是洗碗工。那家酒店開業在即，而我又正好被錄用，我的人生從此改變。我們會輪流在酒店內的不同廚房做事。做糕點的廚房經常會傳來誘人可口的香味。在酒店工作一年左右，糕點廚師告訴我他們有一個職位空缺，問我有沒有興趣加入。當我最初在糕點廚房工作時，並無想過能在那裡發展出自己的事業，但客人吃過我做的蛋糕後，都讚賞有加，我也因此雀躍不已。之後，有人告訴我糕點廚師是全世界最棒的工作，因為所有人在吃過甜品後都很快樂滿足。

你曾經在法國巴黎接受培訓，你在那裡學過或看過哪些新的事物？那有許多東西。我在2003年加入法國雅高集團（該集團擁有索菲特酒店），那是我第一次在一家法國公司工作。我之前曾經與菲律賓和德國廚師合作過，但我沒怎麼接觸過法國廚師和法式廚房。法國廚師總是很有創意，好像永遠靈感不絕。當然，他們也保留了一些傳統技法（例如小泡芙），但會做成其他形狀，加入朱古力、忌廉、糖，製成聖奧諾雷泡芙(Saint Honorés)、巴黎布雷斯特泡芙(Paris Brests)等等。

你覺得在中國製作的西式糕點的質素如何？如果要與歐洲出品平分秋色，還要下些什麼工夫？我覺得在中國製作之西式糕點的質素正在不斷改善。回想一下我們以前所做的蛋糕：一般都會用上人造忌廉，但現在卻不多見了，我們已經明白到人造食材和天然食材的差別。現時中國和歐洲糕點的質素差別已經不是那麼大。但中國的西式糕點如要更進一步，除了廚師的技巧需再提升外，食客的知識也有待提高。我們曾經製作一些很地道的法式糕點，但有些客人不太喜歡，因為他們不知道何謂真正的法式甜品。

製作法式糕點需要精確地量度材料，以及運用高超的技藝，而創造力也是必不可少的。你覺得法式糕點是藝術抑或科學？一個好的糕點師需要精通科學和數學，也要功於藝術和設計。我覺得糕點既是藝術，也是科學。送到客人面前的糕點要精緻有型，同樣亦要美味可口。

你覺得味道和外形孰輕孰重？兩者都很重要，但個人而言，我覺得味道更為關鍵。蛋糕是造給人吃的，所以一定要美味，但精緻的外觀能夠引誘人們來一嘗它的香甜。

28

recipe

French & ChineseFusion Dessert

Chocolate Mousse Cake 朱古力慕斯蛋糕 Walnut Millefeuille 合桃千層酥

Green Apple Marshmallow 青蘋果棉花糖Yoji Nectar 楊枝甘露

** Recipe is created by Chef Lily Wang Yuan Li** 食譜由大廚王原莉提供

EggsEgg yolkSyrupWhipping cream70% Dark chocolate(melted)

Upside-down puffpastry doughVanilla light creamWhipping creamVanilla podsRoasted walnut

SugarInvert sugarLemon juice

Green apple pureeInvert sugar

Gelatine powderWater

Coconut milkSyrupMilkCooked sagoCoconutSugarMango100% Mango pureeLemon zestRed grapefruitPalm’s seed in syrup

Mix the eggs and egg yolk together, bring syrup to boil at 120ºC, add it in the egg mix.Whip the cream to 70% up, melt the dark chocolate.Put all ingredients together and mix well, fill into mould.將雞蛋和蛋黄放在一起用機器打，糖漿煮至120ºC冲入蛋糊中。淡忌廉打起至70%狀態，熔化黑朱古力。將所有材料放在一起拌均匀後裝入模具即可。

Add the whipped cream and vanilla pods to vanilla light cream, mix well. Use it to spread on the Millefeuille, sprinkle roasted walnut on top. Add a weight on top of the pan. Leave for 2 to 3 hours before serving.將打起的淡忌廉和呍呢嗱條一起加入淡味呍呢嗱忌廉。拌匀後用它來抹合桃千層酥，每抹一層都撒上一些烤好的合桃仁。最後一層放上一個重的烤盤加壓，放置2－3小時後即可食用。

Mix the 3 ingredients and bring them to boil at 110ºC. Put Mixture 1 in mixer machine. 把糖和轉化糖及檸檬汁一起煮開至110℃，混合物 1倒入機器中攪拌。

Mix the 2 ingredients and bring them to boil, add to Mixture 1. 將青蘋果果茸和轉化糖一起煮開後，加入混合物1中。

Melt Gelatine powder in water, bring to boil. Add to the above mixture and mix well. 把魚膠粉和水一起煮開，加入上述混合物中即可 。

Mix coconut milk, sugar and mango puree, bring to boil.Add all other liquid ingredients and bring to boil again. After the mixture is cooled down, add the fresh fruits.先將椰奶、糖和芒果果茸一起煮開，再加入其他液體狀原材料一起煮開，放涼後加入新鮮生果即可。

204860

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3

500300

2100

22595

8

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18340

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雞蛋蛋黄 糖漿淡忌廉70%黑朱古力(巳熔)

翻轉後起酥麵團

淡味呍呢嗱忌廉打起的淡忌廉呍呢嗱條烤熟的合桃仁

糖轉化糖檸檬汁

青蘋果果茸轉化糖

魚膠粉水

椰奶糖漿牛奶煮好的西米椰子肉糖芒果芒果果茸檸檬皮新鮮紅西柚海底椰

Angliss Food Service is proud to represent the following brands for Greater China markets.

We have offices in Hong Kong, China, Macau, Malaysia and Singapore to serve all food service and retail customers.

Hong Kong & China Partners:

Publisher:

www.angliss.com.hk

Hong Kong Partners:

China Partners: Own Brands: