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Text of Edible East End edibleeastend.comediblemanhat tanTelling the Story of How Gotham Eats No.10 March/April 2010RUSS & DAUGHTERS KEYS TO LOXMARCUS SAMUELSSONS MELTING POT MUSEOCTOGENARIAN ORACLE JOAN GUSSOWMember of Edible CommunitiesTHE BAKING ISSUEtFRANNYStBEER HERE WHERES THE BEEF?tFRY OIL = FUELMember of Edible CommunitiesCelebrating the Boroughs Food Culture, Season by SeasonNo. 16Winter 2010SENSIBLE SUSHI tLOCAVORE LOAF tSPIRITED SPUDSWINE COUNTRY ELDER t PINTAUROS PEARSMember of Edible CommunitiesNo. 18Winter 2009edibleeastendCelebrating the Harvest of the Hamptons and North Forksubscribe. Never miss an issue. give a gift. Delight a New York foodie.Fill out this card or subscribe online at:Let edible give you a behind-the-scenes look at New Yorks food culture that you wont fnd anywhere else.NameAddressCity State ZipPhoneE-mailq Credit card information: Card numberExp. DateSecurity CodeWe accept Visa, MasterCard, American Express, Discoverq Check enclosed made out to EdiblebiLLiNg aDDress subscriPtiON tYPeNew York foodie special Includes: Edible Manhattan Edible Brooklyn Edible East End q 1 year $84q 2 years $150Edible Manhattanq 1 year (6 issues) $35q 2 years (12 issues) $60Edible Brooklynq 1 year (4 issues) $28 q 2 years (8 issues) $50Edible East Endq 1 year (5 issues) $35 q 2 years (10 issues) $60 sHiPPiNg/gift aDDressName Address City State ZipIf a gift, please tell us what you would like the note to say:Please mail this completed form to:EdiblePO Box 779 Sag Harbor, NY 11963edibleMember of Edible Communitiese a s te ndCelebrating the Harvest of the Hamptons and North Fork No. 33Winter 2012FOOD PANTRY FARMStMICROGREENStWINTER CLAMMINGMARYS MARVELOUStMALI B SWEETStPINOT BLANCtBEER PROJECTTHURSDAYS 9:30 PM ESTON COOKING CHANNELTheCHEESEFor more information on Jason please visit:jasonthebigcheese.comTHE BIG CHEESE2edible EAST ENDWINTER 2012CONTENTS6NOTABLE EDIBLESRed-Stained Hands Club Green Thumb for HireFood PoliticsLove Lane MarketCulling the HerdFarm-to-Food Pantry18FARMGIRL ANGSTTHE BLIGHT CHRONICLES, PART I21BEHIND THE BOTTLELIEB 2010 PINOT BLANCAn homage to Alsace for winter stews, oyster pan roasts and East End chowders.23A WINEMAKERS WONDERINGSTHE 2011 VINTAGEThree vineyard tenders describe one of the strangest seasons in memory.24ARTISANSNOT YOUR ORDINARY SWEETSA North Fork cake baker, a South Fork weaver, and their confectionary creations.26EDIBLE ENTREPRENEURLITTLE GREENS, BIG FLAVORElfin carrot tops, micro mustard and radish sprouts emerge from an Amagansett greenhouse.28BOOKSFREEDOM TO COOKA diabetic chef relies on flavor and texture, not carbs and calories.31PAIRINGSCOCOAVINOA chocolate sommelier goes head-to-head with Long Island wine.35SOCIAL SUDSSTRONG RYELANDThe regions first collaborative beer delivers a taste from both forks.36ON GOOD LANDPLANT A ROW FOR THE HUNGRYAt EECO Farm, a plot is dedicated to supplying South Fork food pantries.40BACK OF THE HOUSEMARYS MARVELOUSThis cozy Main Street spot is crammed full of all-day, from-scratch nourishment.46IN THE KITCHEN WITHAPRIL GORNIK AND ERIC FISCHLTwo painters thrive on eggs, homemade bread and ambitious dinner parties.52CULT OF TASTEFATHER AND MOTHER NATUREJoe and Alexandra Macari and their bottles brimming with biodiversity.57HAPPENINGSA COUPLE WEDS IN WATER MILLInternational fare for a pioneering state ceremony.70HEIRLOOMSCHEESE LADDERS, FIRKINS, BABY CAGESAND OTHER COOKING CURIOSITIESWhy should historical societies look in their pantries?75VISUAL VICTUALSCOLDSEASON CLAMMINGThere are hearty harvesters behind your winter chowder.88AFTERTASTETHE APPLE PUSHERSCOVER AND THIS PAGEMali B Sweets, Greenport.By Randee DaddonaFor the past four years, brewmaster Garrett Oliver has been working on a massive project. Its the ultimate beer collaboration, but its not a beer. Published this September by Oxford University Press, its The Oxford Companion to Beer, the most comprehensive book on beer ever published, featuring 160 experts covering more than 1,100 subjects. Its a momentous thing, so Garrett (Editor-in-Chief), Horst Dornbusch (Associate Editor, writer, scholar, man-about-town) and Thomas Kraus-Weyermann (writer and master maltster) hatched a plan. Together, they brewed our next Brewmasters Reserve beer, called The Companion. Thomas created special new oor malts for The Compan-ion, which is brewed in an old style called wheat wine, a wheat-based equivalent to barley wine. The oor malts give this beer a juicy malt character of considerable depth, 55% malted wheat gives it a surprising lightness on the palate, while our house ale yeast lends a gentle fruiti-ness. The Oxford Companion to Beer will impart knowledge, while The Companion imparts conviviality. Maybe you really can have it all? E KB [email protected] >O >GMI E : G G B G @ ([FHOOHQWTHe Mew YcnK TMes PHcue: 631-2SB-ABOO/HWXV&DWHU\RXU1H[W(YHQWPHcue: 516-B6A-3B55 www.TcMScHAUoeL.ccM FncM EAcKvAno EAnaeoUe 1c LAvsH Veoouowww.ANAucPes1AUnAu1.ccM 1355O NAu PcAo: NA111UcK, MY 11S52 6edible EAST ENDWINTER 2012NOTABLE EDIBLESBY EILEEN M. DUFFYREDSTAINED HANDS CLUBItschilly,butnooneseemstomind.Tereslentilsoupinthe Crock-Pot (for the vegetarians), as well as some delicious pulled pork and a shared fascination about how one turns grapes into wine.On a Saturday morning in November, members of the Bella Vita Vine to Wine program were happy to be standing wrapped in scarves and down vests in a cement-oored barn watching An-thony Sannino (shown at right and below) punch down the cap on a fermenting container of cabernet sauvignon.Te small room lined with tanks built to hold the juice that would make one barrelor 23 casesof wine smells like, well, a winery, because it is one, but thats a simplication. It smells like conversion, which is, in a sense, rotting and renewal, sweetness and energy and funk (and fruit-y bait). Winemaking is elemental and attractive.Te Sanninos, Lisa and Anthony, bought their vineyard from Harold Watts of Ternhaven Cellarsone of the North Forks rst wave of vineyard ownersin 2006, 5.25 acres of cabernet and merlot planted in 1989. Te idea was to sell the grapes and build a bed-and-breakfast in the middle of the vines. Both goals were accomplished. But the desire to make wine, instilled in Anthony from his family roots in Ischia, an island o the coast of Naples, kept tugging at them.Howtostartuptheirownwinemakingbusinesswhileac-knowledgingthesignicantinvestmentinequipment?Vineto Wine was born.In 2007 the couple promoted the idea that anyone could make wine, proposing that members contribute $4,500 up front for a yearofthewinemakingexperienceandtheguaranteeofgoing home with the equivalent of one barrel of wine.Enough people signed on, shown nothing but an empty room, and paid in advance, allowing the couple to buy all the equipment they needed. Kind of like a wine CSA.Today, the Sanninos average about 20 members per vintage, with membership including couples and up to eight individuals.Te members start with harvest, on Columbus Day weekend, when there is usually something ripewhether it be white or red grapesdepending on the growing season. Te weekend is like a party. Te children come, and pumpkins are all around. Once the grapes are picked, the members come back periodically to watch, and help, as the grapes make their progress to the bottle. Teres crushing and racking and stabilizing and blending and bottling.Te members are involved in the decision making, and all go home with the same wine: a little bit of white, a little bit of ros and a little bit of red, which comes out to about $16 per bottle.Te experience and the wine are enough to keep people com-ing back. John Arini of Setauket has joined his wife, Terry, for her second year. She was a home winemaker, and now hes an accom-plice, asking questions about fermentation time and winemaker intent. After tasting the mid-fermentation cabernet, Terry says it was like when youre baking a cake and eat the dough before you bake it. Whats more elemental than that? Photographs: Randee DaddonaPackages starting at $59.99 per person (plus tax & gratuity).Call Paula at 631-369-0100.Our fully decorated tasting house is the perfect place for your corporate gathering or staffparty. Let us help you plan your special event complete with a personalized menu, perfectly paired with our delicious wines.a memorable way to celebrate the holidays.RESERVE YOUR HOLIDAY PARTY TODAYWINE, DINE & VINEYARD VIEWS2114 Sound Ave, Baiting Hollow, NY | BHFVINEYARD.COMNEW!give the gift ofwholesome foodWhen your recipes call forthe finest ingredients, reach for Organic Valleys organiccream, yogurt, butter, eggs, and cheese. Make yourholidays truly extraordinaryand celebrate with organic! For great holiday recipes and to enter: CelebrateWithOrganic.comENTER TO WIN a year of organic dairy foodsand Organic Valley and Stonyfield will donate to Wholesome Wave, helping families in need buy healthy produce directly from farmers.edibleeastend.com9 |NOTABLE EDIBLESGREEN THUMB FOR HIRENot many fathers refer to their children as free-range chickens, but for Renato Stanford of Southold, the description is apt. Tats because his yard is where the bulk of his familys food comes from.Tis former e ciency expert with a career at Dupont behind him expe-rienced a life-changing event 10 years ago when he was in a car accident that took his wifes life. Since then he has been dedicated to growing his own food, going to the supermarket as little as possible and taking advantage of what he says comes naturally to him: making things grow.To do so, he built a hoop house in his yard to be able to provide his fam-ily with fresh produce year round. He relies on local honey for sweetener and spendsdayscanningandpreservingwhenhisoutdoorgardengivesupits bounty at the end of the summer growing season. Tis fall, he says, he put away 200 jars of tomatoes and 75 jars of dill pickles. Tis was after he and his family ate all the cucumbers they coul