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Completely updated every year, Frommer's Montréal & Québec City features gorgeous color photos of the sights and experiences that await you. Our author hits all the highlights, from Vieux-Montréal to Quebéc's fascinating Musée de la Civilisation. She's checked out all the best hotels and restaurants in person, and offers authoritative, candid reviews that will help you find the choices that suit your tastes and budget. You'll also get up-to-the-minute coverage of shopping and nightlife; detailed walking tours; accurate neighborhood maps; advice on planning a successful family vacation; and side trips to the Laurentians, Cantons-de-l'Est, Ile d'Orléans, Montmorency Falls, Ste-Anne-de-Beaupré, Parc Mont Ste-Anne, and Central & Upper Charlevoix. Frommer's Montréal & Québec City also includes a color fold-out map. Buy the book: http://amzn.to/aA1iFG
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Montréal &Québec City 2011
2 MONTREAL & QUEBEC CITY IN DEPTH 7
Montréal & Québec City Today 8
Looking Back at Montréal & Québec City 9
MARCH OF THE LANGUAGE POLICE (OR LA POLICE DE LANGUE) 12
Montréal & Québec City’s Art & Architecture 14
Montréal & Québec City in Popular Culture 17
Eating & Drinking in Montréal & Québec City 18
CONTENTS List of Maps vii
1 THE BEST OF MONTREAL &
QUEBEC CITY 1
Unforgettable Travel Experiences 1
The Best Splurge Hotels 2
The Best Moderately Priced Hotels 3
The Most Unforgettable Dining Experiences 3
The Best Museums 4
The Best Outdoor Activities 5
The Best Activities for Families 5
The Best of Montréal & Québec City Online 6
A NOTE ABOUT ENGLISH AND FRENCH IN THIS BOOK 6
3 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO MONTREAL &
QUEBEC CITY 21
When to Go 22
Entry Requirements 26
Getting to Montréal & Québec City 28
Money & Costs 32
Staying Healthy 33
Crime & Safety 34
Specialized Travel Resources 34
Responsible Tourism 36GENERAL RESOURCES FOR RESPONSIBLE
TRAVEL 37
Special Interest & Escorted Trips 38
Staying Connected 40
Tips on Accommodations 41WHAT’S IN A NAME? UNDERSTANDING
AFFILIATIONS 42
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COPYRIG
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Best Hotel Bets 65
Centre Ville/Downtown 68KEEP UP YOUR WORKOUT SCHEDULE 70
Vieux-Montréal (Old Montréal) 73
ROOM WITHOUT A VIEW, PLEASE 73
LOCAL PLAYERS: THE ANTONOPOULOS GROUP 75
Plateau Mont-Royal 79
6 WHERE TO STAY IN MONTREAL 64
Orientation 54
Getting There and Getting Around 59
MONTREAL: WHERE THE SUN RISES IN THE SOUTH 56
JULY 1: CITYWIDE MOVING DAY 63
5 GETTING TO KNOW MONTREAL 54
THE BEST OF MONTREAL IN 1 DAY 43
THE BEST OF MONTREAL IN 2 DAYS 46
THE BEST OF MONTREAL IN 3 DAYS 47
THE BEST OF QUEBEC CITY IN 1 DAY 48
THE BEST OF QUEBEC CITY IN 2 DAYS 49
THE BEST OF QUEBEC CITY IN 3 DAYS 52
4 SUGGESTED MONTREAL &
QUEBEC CITY ITINERARIES 43
7 WHERE TO DINE IN MONTREAL 80
Best Dining Bets 81
Restaurants by Cuisine 82
Centre Ville/Downtown 84POUTINE, SMOKED MEAT & THE WORLD’S
BEST BAGELS 88
Vieux-Montréal (Old Montréal) 89FINDING A WARM CORNER AFTER
A SNOWSTORM 95
Plateau Mont-Royal 96
Mile End/Avenue Laurier 101
Quartier Latin 103
Outer Districts 103LATE-NIGHT BITES 104
8 EXPLORING MONTREAL 105
Top Attractions 105MONEY SAVERS 108
CIRQUE DU SOLEIL: MONTREAL’S HOMETOWN CIRCUS 112
More Attractions 114DON’T BE SHY, GIVE BIXI A TRY 117
Especially for Kids 119
Special-Interest Sightseeing 121
Organized Tours 123
Spectator Sports 125
Outdoor Activities 126
9 MONTREAL STROLLS 129
WALKING TOUR 1 VIEUX-MONTREAL 129
WALKING TOUR 2: DOWNTOWN 138
WALKING TOUR 3: PLATEAU MONT-ROYAL 142
WALKING TOUR 4: PARC DU MONT-ROYAL 147
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North into the Laurentians (Laurentides) 177
ON THE ROAD: A QUICK GUIDE 180
BIKER’S PARADISE: THE 4,000KM ROUTE VERTE 183
NAME THAT TREMBLANT! 185
WITH APOLOGIES TO MONTY PYTHON: “SPA, SPA, SPA, SPA . . . ” 188
Cantons-de-l’Est 194MAPLE HEAVEN IN CABANES A SUCRE 200
12 SIDE TRIPS FROM MONTREAL 176
The Performing Arts 164
Music & Dance Clubs 167LATE NIGHT MONTREAL, WHEN THE STREET
FESTIVALS SUBSIDE 169
Bars 171
More Entertainment 174
11 MONTREAL AFTER DARK 163
The Shopping Scene 152 Shopping from A to Z 154
10 MONTREAL SHOPPING 152
13 GETTING TO KNOW QUEBEC CITY 208
Orientation 209 Getting Around 213
14 WHERE TO STAY IN QUEBEC CITY 215
Best Hotel Bets 216
Vieux-Quebec: Haute-Ville (Upper Town) 216
Vieux-Quebec: Basse-Ville (Lower Town)/Vieux-Port 222
Parliament Hill (on or Near Grande-Allee) 224
QUEBEC’S ICE HOTEL: THE COLDEST RECEPTION IN TOWN 225
St-Roch 226
Just Outside the City 227
15 WHERE TO DINE IN QUEBEC CITY 228
Best Dining Bets 228FOR A BARGAIN, LOOK FOR THE TABLE
D’HOTE 229
Restaurants by Cuisine 230
Vieux-Quebec: Haute-Ville (Upper Town) 231
Vieux-Quebec: Basse-Ville (Lower Town)/Vieux-Port 234
EATING VEGETARIAN IN A LAND THAT’S DEFINITIVELY NOT 236
Parliament Hill (on or Near Grande-Allee) 238
St-Roch 239
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The Shopping Scene 269 Shopping from A to Z 270
18 QUEBEC CITY SHOPPING 269
WALKING TOUR 1: UPPER TOWN (VIEUX-QUEBEC: HAUTE-VILLE) 254
WALKING TOUR 2: LOWER TOWN (VIEUX-QUEBEC: BASSE-VILLE & VIEUX-PORT) 263
17 QUEBEC CITY STROLLS 254
The Top Attractions 240
More Attractions 245
Especially for Kids 249
Organized Tours 250
Spectator Sports 251
Outdoor Activities 251
16 EXPLORING QUEBEC CITY 240
19 QUEBEC CITY AFTER DARK 275
The Performing Arts 275
The Club & Music Scene 276
Bars 277
20 SIDE TRIPS FROM QUEBEC CITY 279
Ile d’Orléans 279AN IMPORTANT NAVIGATIONAL NOTE 282
ECONOMUSEUMS: A LOCAL (TOURISM) TRADITION 283
Montmorency Falls 286
Ste-Anne-de-Beaupré 287
Canyon Ste-Anne, Ste-Anne Falls & Parc Mont Ste-Anne 288
Central Charlevoix: Baie-St-Paul, St-Irenee & La Malbaie 290
Upper Charlevoix: St-Simeon, Baie Ste-Catherine & Tadoussac 295
21 FAST FACTS 298
Fast Facts: Montréal & Québec City 298
Airline Websites 301
Index 302Accommodations Index 309 Restaurant Index 310
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LIST OF MAPS
Suggested Montréal Itineraries�44
Suggested Québec City Itineraries�50
Montréal Métro�61
Where to Stay in Montréal�66
Where to Dine in Downtown Montréal, Pla-teau Mont-Royal & Mile End�87
Where to Dine in Vieux-Montréal�91
Where to Dine in Plateau Mont-Royal & Mile End�97
Montréal Attractions�106
Walking Tour 1: Vieux-Montréal�131
Walking Tour: Downtown Montréal�139
Walking Tour: Plateau Mont-Royal�143
Walking Tour: Parc du Mont-Royal�149
The Laurentians (Laurentides)�179
Cantons-de-l’Est�195
Québec City Orientation�210
Where to Stay in Québec City�218
Where to Dine in Québec City�232
Québec City Attractions�242
Walking Tour: Upper Town�256
Walking Tour: Lower Town�265
Québec City Environs�281
LIST OF MAPS
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1THE BEST OF MONTREAL & QUEBEC CITY
If the province of Québec had a tagline, it could be: “Any
excuse for a party.” An enormous joie de vivre pervades
the way that Montréal and Québec City go about their
business. Their calendars are packed with festivals and
events that bring out both locals and guests from around
the world year-round.
You’ll also find that Montréal is a modern city in every regard. Skyscrap-ers come in unexpected shapes and noncorporate colors. There’s a beau-tifully preserved historic district. The subway system, called the Métro, is modern and swift. And the city’s creative inhabitants provide zest to the ever-changing Plateau Mont-Royal and Mile End, large neighbor-hoods of artists’ lofts, boutiques, and cafes, and miles of restaurants—many of which are unabashedly clever and stylish.
Québec City, more traditional and more French, is replacing its former conservatism with sophistication and playfulness. With an impressive location above the St. Lawrence River and carefully tended 18th- and 19th-century houses, this city is almost impossibly romantic—and unlike any other in North America.
UNFORGETTABLE TRAVEL EXPERIENCESMontréalW Enjoy an Afternoon or Evening of Jazz. In downtown, Vieux-Mon-
tréal, and the Plateau, this is a favorite pastime of locals and visitors—especially in July, during the renowned Festival International de Jazz. See “Music & Dance Clubs,” in chapter 11.
W Savor Gourmet Meals at Affordable Prices. Experience all of French cuisine’s interpretations—traditional, haute, bistro, Québécois—the way the locals do: by ordering the table d’hôte specials. You’ll get to
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indulge in three or more courses for a fixed price that is only slightly more than the cost of a single main course. Most restaurants offer the option. See p. 19.
W Explore Vieux-Montréal. The city’s oldest quarter has an overwhelmingly Euro-pean flavor. Place Jacques-Cartier is the most popular outdoor square, and in any direction, you’ll find museums and churches worth savoring. A revitalized water-front also inspires strolling or biking. A walking tour of the neighborhood is on p. 129.
Québec CityW Linger at an Outdoor Cafe. Tables are set out at Place d’Armes in Upper Town,
in the Quartier du Petit-Champlain in Lower Town, and along the Grande-Allée. It’s a quality-of-life invention the French and their Québécois brethren have per-fected. See chapter 15 for more information.
W Soak Up Lower Town. Once all but abandoned to the grubby edges of the ship-ping industry, the riverside neighborhood of Basse-Ville/Vieux-Port has been reborn. Antiques shops, bistros, and chic boutique hotels now fill rehabilitated 18th- and 19th-century buildings. See p. 48 for a walking tour.
W Take in a Free Summer Evening Show by Cirque du Soleil. The internationally-known circus company puts on free performances on city streets most summer nights through at least 2013, in a program that got its start as part of Québec City’s 400th anniversary celebrations. See p. 112.
THE best SPLURGE HOTELSMontréalW Hôtel Le St-James (355 rue St-Jacques ouest; & 866/841-3111 or 514/841-
3111): This former 19th-century bank in Vieux-Montréal lets no detail escape its attention. From an opulent restaurant to marble-rich bathrooms to an immacu-lately trained staff, Hôtel Le St-James provides an experience that may well be the highlight of your visit. See p. 73.
W W Montréal (901 rue Square-Victoria; & 877/946-8357 or 514/395-3100): Hip, chic, and nightclubby, the W has three bars and lounges, a swank restaurant, and a clientele composed of knockouts of both genders. It you’re staying here, it won’t hurt if your platinum card is paid up and you don’t need much sleep. See p. 77.
Every narrow street, leafy plaza, side-walk cafe, horse-drawn calèche, pitched roof, and church spire breathes recollections of France’s provincial towns. But to get the full Québec City treatment, amble those streets in the evening and find a bench on Terrasse
Dufferin, the promenade alongside the Château Frontenac. The river below will be the color of liquid mercury in the moon’s glow, and on a clear night, you’ll see a sky of stars. Faint music from the boîtes in Lower Town is a pos-sibility. Romance is a certainty.
Romantic Québec City
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1Québec CityW Auberge Saint-Antoine (8 rue St-Antoine; & 888/692-2211 or 418/692-2211):
Sure, there’s the Château Frontenac, looming on the cliffs above, the very symbol of the city. But for a more intimate visit, stay in Basse-Ville, (Lower Town). This romantic luxury hotel has grown into one of Québec’s most desirable lodgings, with an arresting lounge and a top restaurant to boot. See p. 222.
W Hôtel Le Germain-Dominion (126 rue St-Pierre; & 888/833-5253 or 418/692-2224): An anchor in the successful redevelopment of the once-dreary Vieux-Port, the Dominion has bedding so cozily enveloping that you may not want to go out. Do, though—for the fireplace, croissants, and café au lait in the lobby, if nothing else. See p. 222.
THE best MODERATELY PRICED HOTELSMontréalW Auberge Bonaparte (447 rue St-François-Xavier; & 514/844-1448): Even the
smallest rooms in this fashionable urban inn are gracefully presented, and taking breakfast in the elegant Bonaparte restaurant (p. 89) is an especially civilized way to start the day. See p. 77.
W Le Square Phillips Hôtel & Suites (1193 Square Phillips; & 866/393-1193 or 514/393-1193): Tidy, centrally located, and equipped with full kitchens in every unit. There’s even a rooftop pool. See p. 72.
Québec CityW Courtyard Marriott Québec (850 Place d’Youville; & 866/694-4004 or
418/694-4004): A hot property in recent years due to room renovations, friendly staff, and fair prices. Beds are piled with five pillows and sheet-cover duvets. See p. 224.
W Hôtel Champlain (115 rue Ste-Anne; & 800/567-2106 or 418/694-0106): Even the smallest rooms boast silk curtains, king or queen beds, and 300-thread-count sheets. A self-serve espresso machine by the front desk ensures free cappuccinos at any time of day or night. See p. 220.
THE MOST UNFORGETTABLE DINING EXPERIENCESMontréalW Europea (1227 rue de la Montagne; & 514/398-9229): For the full treatment,
order the 10-course menu degustation. You’ll see why chef Jérôme Ferrer was named Chef of the Year in 2007 by his colleagues and why the accolades keep coming, year after year. See p. 84.
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1W Toqué! (900 Place Jean-Paul-Riopelle; & 514/499-2084): Chef/owner Norman
Laprise has been thrilling gourmands for years. In dishes of startling innovation, he brings together diverse ingredients that have rarely appeared before on restau-rant plates. New menus come out frequently. See p. 89.
Québec CityW Initiale (54 rue St-Pierre; & 418/694-1818): Gracious, cordial, and subdued,
this is one of the best restaurants of the entire province. Dress up and settle in, perhaps with the eight-course seasonal tasting menu. See p. 234.
W Panache (10 rue St-Antoine; & 418/692-1022): Romance all the way, from the fireplace and velvet couches to the wrought-iron staircase leading to hideaway attic corners. French-Canadian cuisine with a kick, inside the knockout Auberge Saint-Antoine. See p. 235.
THE best MUSEUMSMontréalW Musée des Beaux-Arts (1339–1380 rue Sherbrooke ouest; & 514/285-2000):
Canada’s first museum devoted exclusively to the visual arts opened in 1912. It has expanded over the years, and new for 2011 is the adjacent Erskine and American Church. Temporary exhibits are dazzling and have focused in recent years on musician Miles Davis, fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent, and the art of Cuba. See p. 105.
W Pointe-à-Callière (Montréal Museum of Archaeology and History) (350 Place Royale; & 514/872-9150): A first visit to Montréal might best begin here. This strikingly modernistic structure at the edge of Vieux-Montréal marks the spot where the first European settlement put down roots in the city. It stands atop extensive excavations that unearthed not only remains of the French newcomers, but also of the native bands that preceded them. On the self-guided tour, you wind your way through the subterranean complex. See p. 111.
Québec CityW Musée de la Civilisation (85 rue Dalhousie; & 418/643-2158): Here is that
rarity among museums: a collection of cleverly mounted temporary and perma-nent exhibitions that both children and adults find engrossing, without talking down or metaphysical maunderings. Make time for “People of Québec . . . Then and Now,” a permanent exhibit that is a sprawling examination of Québec history. See p. 240.
W Musée National des Beaux-Arts du Québec (Parc des Champs-de-Bataille; & 866/220-2150 or 418/643-2150): Known simply as Musée du Québec, this museum highlights modern art (Jean-Paul Riopelle especially) and has a large, important collection of Inuit art, much produced in the 1980s and 1990s. See p. 244.
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1THE best OUTDOOR ACTIVITIESMontréalW Traverse the Lachine Canal. First constructed in the early 1800s to detour around
the rapids of the same name, the canal was reopened for recreational use in 1997 after much renovation. It connects Vieux-Port with Atwater Market. You can explore the canal and its surroundings by guided boat tour, on foot, or on a rented bicycle. See chapter 8.
W Bike the City. Montréalers’ enthusiasm for bicycling has provided the impetus for the ongoing development of bicycle paths that wind through downtown areas and out to the countryside—more than 560km (348 miles), at last count. Rentals are available from shops and the new BIXI network, which has put thousands of bikes onto the streets for inexpensive borrowing. See p. 127.
Québec CityW Take a Walking Tour. Combine immersion in Québec’s rich history with a good
stretch of the legs among the battlements and along the storied city’s cobble-stoned streets. Use the walking tours in chapter 17 or go on a group tour. See p. 254.
THE best ACTIVITIES FOR FAMILIESMontréalW Visit the Biodôme de Montréal. Perhaps the most engaging attraction in the city
for younger children. The Biodôme houses replications of four ecosystems: a Laurentian forest; the St. Lawrence marine system; a polar environment; and most appealingly, a tropical rainforest. See p. 112.
W Spend a Day at the Centre des Sciences de Montréal. Running the length of a central pier in Vieux-Port, this ambitious science center has permanent interac-tive displays, along with special exhibits. One recent exhibit guided kids in mak-ing television news reports at computers; there’s also a popular IMAX theater. It’s designed especially for ages 9 to 14. See p. 110.
Québec CityW Watch the Changing of the Guard. La Citadelle is the fortress built by the British
to repel an American invasion that never came. It’s still an active military post, and the ceremonial Changing of the Guard is colorful and doesn’t take too much time. See p. 224.
W Thrill to a Waterfall. A 15-minute car or bus ride north of the city is Montmo-rency Falls, a spectacular cascade. You can walk to the base or take a cable car to the top. A footbridge passes directly over the plunging water and is open to anyone
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brave-hearted enough to walk it. About a half-hour further north, Canyon Ste-Anne also has a waterfall with footbridges that crisscross it and the canyon. See p. 286 and p. 288.
THE best OF MONTREAL & QUEBEC CITY ONLINEW Bonjour Québec (www.bonjourquebec.com): The official site of the province of
Québec is a comprehensive information bank. You’ll find details about upcoming events and special package deals.
W Midnight Poutine (www.midnightpoutine.ca): A terrific Montréal blog with some 20 contributors that provides “a personal ongoing account of the city’s happen-ings” and “a delicious high-fat source of rants, raves, and musings.”
A NOTE ABOUT ENGLISH AND FRENCH IN THIS book
Like the Québecois themselves, this guidebook goes back and forth between using the French names and the English names for areas and attractions. Most often, we use French. Québec’s state-mandated language is French, and
most signs, brochures, and maps in the region appear in French. However, we use the English name or translation, as well, if that makes the meaning clearer. Bon voyage!
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