Halo ODST Armor Torso Part 2 of 5 of ODST Armor

7/23/2019 Halo ODST Armor Torso Part 2 of 5 of ODST Armor

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http://www.instructables.com/id/Halo-ODST-Armor-Torso-Part-2-of-5-of-ODST-Armor/

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Halo ODST Armor: Torso - Part 2 of 5 of ODST Armor Buildby vv_767on January 22, 2010

Table of Contents

Halo ODST Armor: Torso - Part 2 of 5 of ODST Armor Build ..............................................................................

Intro: Halo ODST Armor: Torso - Part 2 of 5 of ODST Armor Build ......................................................................

Step 1: The Software and the 3D files ...........................................................................................

Step 2: Materials and Tools ...................................................................................................

Step 3: Scale and Print ......................................................................................................

Step 4: Cut, Fold, Glue, Repeat... ..............................................................................................

Step 5: Pep The Rest Of The Parts .............................................................................................

Step 6: Hardening the Armor Pieces ............................................................................................

Step 7: Smooth Out The Armor ................................................................................................ 1

Step 8: Shoulder Straps and Padded Parts ....................................................................................... 1

Step 9: Metal Buckles ....................................................................................................... 1

Step 10: Using Rondo / Mud .................................................................................................. 1

Step 11: Add Details ........................................................................................................ 2

Step 12: Paint ............................................................................................................. 2

Step 13: Straps And Bindings And Other Details ................................................................................... 2

Related Instructables ........................................................................................................ 2

Comments ................................................................................................................ 2
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Author:vv_767 ODST

I like making stuff when I have the time. But It is soooo hard to find TIME...

Intro: Halo ODST Armor: Torso - Part 2 of 5 of ODST Armor BuildThis is Part 2 of a 5 part series on building a Halo ODST Armor suit you can wear.

The project is so large that I decided to break it down into five(5) Instructables:1. Helmet2. Torso

3. Arms4. Legs5. Weapons

I also published a Halo ODST Armor Build Table Of Contents to help unify all the parts.

If you have not read Part 1 - ODST Helmet, then you need to read that one first. Much of this instructable builds upon what was learned in Part 1.

There is also a small departure from the norm is this instructable since I decided to machine some of the parts on a mill. So some parts will be made of metal.WOOHOO!!

The ODST Torso armor is actually 1 large piece and a bunch of small pieces attached to a tactical/plate carrier/molle vest or intricate weaving of nylon straps.

The armor pieces that need to be made are:* Torso* L/R Back Pad* Chest Plate* Center Abdominal Plate* L/R Abdominal Plates* Lower back Plates* Belt plate

** Credit for the 3D model goes to SkullCandy Girl (SKG)and Nightshade. Pepakura unfold credit goes to Belakor and Harding29 **

Image Notes1. This is our reference picture
http://www.instructables.com/id/Halo-ODST-Armor-Helmet-Part-1-of-6-of-ODST-Armo/http://www.instructables.com/id/ODST-Halo-Armor-Build-Part-6-Table-Of-Contents-/http://www.instructables.com/id/ODST-Halo-Armor-Build-Part-6-Table-Of-Contents-/http://www.instructables.com/id/Halo-ODST-Armor-Arms-Part-3-of-5-of-ODST-Armor-/http://www.instructables.com/id/Halo-ODST-Armor-Helmet-Part-1-of-6-of-ODST-Armo/http://www.instructables.com/id/ODST-Halo-Armor-Build-Part-6-Table-Of-Contents-/http://member/vv_767/http://member/vv_767/


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Step 1:The Software and the 3D filesWe will be using the Pepakura software to print the 3D paper models for our parts.

the software is here: http://www.tamasoft.co.jp/pepakura-en/

There are many variants of the ODST armor. Which one you build depends on your taste.

Start with the files here:http://halocostuming.wikia.com/wiki/Pepakura_File_Index

For this instructable I am actually building an ODST armor from a combination of models from the WETA live-action short film HALO 3 Landfall and Halo 3 ODST gamart.

The 405th forum threads that cover the WETA ODST and the game ODST projects and most of the 3D models used for this project is here:

SkullCandy Girl's WETA ODST ThreadHalo 3: ODST - Pepakura Armor

There are over a hundred pages between the two threads but most of the files are on the first post.

SKG actually has a Instructable in here for making the Master Chief armor.

Image Notes1. Get used to this program.

Step 2:Materials and ToolsMaterials are very similar to Part 1.

Materials:1. A stack of Card Stock - Letter or A4 size. the paper weight should be 110lbs.2. Glue. i use Elmer's white glue. Wood Glue works also. Others use superglue, gorilla glue, or hot glue3. Resin - Epoxy, Polyester, or casting resin. Type used depends on budget and working environment.4. Fiberglass mat or cloth - only if you go with epoxy or polyester resin. Not need if casting resin is used.5. Bondo or similar vehicle body repair putty.6. Putty spreader7. Foam or other padding material8. $5 camping mat from W**-M**t.9. Nylon webbing - 1", 2", and 3" wide. Probably 2-3 yards of each size.10. Masking tape11. sand paper - course and fine.12. Plastic buckles - the kinds that snap together.13. Paints - Primer, silver, black, your prefered colors, and matte clear coat. This is supposed to be battle armor. It's not supposed to be shiny.14. Ketchup, mustard or pudding. If you completed Part 1, you know what this is for.

Tools:1. Computer2. Printer

3. Exacto knife4. scissors5. Ruler6. ball point pen.7. paint brushes8. plastic cups9. popsicle sticks10. cutting mat or cutting board11. Disposable gloves12. Respirator13. Safety Glasses14 Dremel or other rotary tools.15. Detail sander or a sanding block

Misc.:paper towels, shop towels, wires, screws, sewing kit, rivets.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Halo-ODST-Armor-Helmet-Part-1-of-6-of-ODST-Armo/http://www.instructables.com/id/Build_Halo_Armor/http://405th.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18606http://405th.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=9396&hl=skullcandy%20girl&st=0http://halocostuming.wikia.com/wiki/Pepakura_File_Indexhttp://www.tamasoft.co.jp/pepakura-en/


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Specialty items (nice to have but may be beyond us): Things I wish I had...Vacuum forming rig.Rotocast rig.Metal mill and lathe


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Image Notes1. get the "Gold" stuff. It sands better. Get the largest tub you can afford.

Image Notes1. Yes, you will need this much glue


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Step 3:Scale and PrintI selected the WETA ODST project for my base because of the easy scaling process.

Most of the parts are a matched set since there is only two 3d modeler (SKG and Nightshade). The unfolder (e.g. Belakor) then based the scale of all the items off hisheight. So, if we know the unfolders height we can determine the percentage difference between our height and his height. Got it? Yes? No?

OK, Belakor is 5'11" or 71". So our FULL BODY model at 100% scale is 71"Now, let say you are 5'8" or 68".

Math 68 / 71 = .96 or 96%.

Belakor's model is scaled at 24.02370951. To scale the model to a person who is 68" reduce the original scale by 4%

24.02370951 * .96 = 23.06276113.

So every piece of the body armor wi ll be rescaled to 23.06276113 if you are 68" tall.

I used Belakor's unfolds becuase I know his height. I adjust the scale on all the parts to my height and record the height of the part. When I use a differentmodel/unfolder I change the model height instead of the scale based on the part height I got from Belakor's unfold.

Open the TORSO file first. This is the biggest piece. Scale it correctly based on the formula above.

Adjust paper size and orientation (portrait or landscape) for the page and the printer.

Move the parts around to fit inside the pages.

Print the TORSO ONLY.

Image Notes1. This is the Torso2. This is the scale you will be changing on all the pieces. Your numbers will differ.

Step 4:Cut, Fold, Glue, Repeat...The tedious part again. Except even more so as we have a lot of parts to make

Start building the TORSO first.

Find a starting point BUT do the neck hole LAST. Do NOT completely assemble the neck hole. Leave several tabs unglued all around the colar. Plan out your next tor three pieces and cut them out using scissors and exacto knife.

Use your ruler and pen to "dent" the paper along the fold lines. Typical models have solid lines as the cut lines, dotted lines as "mountain" folds, and dot-dash lines a"valley" folds. Sharp crisp folds makes for a good looking finished model. The best way to make sharp folds is to score the folds lines with a pen. Press Hard. Afterscoring the fold lines, fold the paper 90 degrees.

Find the matching numbers and glue the edges together, 1 goes with 1, 2 with 2, 3 with 3, ... 105 with 105, etc. The Tabs go on the inside of the model.

Some people like to cut out all the pieces first then start gluing. I like to keep the pieces on the sheet and only cut them out when I am ready for them. Easier to find thway.

Again, have TV or music on to keep your mind entertained.

Cut, score, fold, glue, cut, score, fold, glue, cut, score, fold.................

Lucky for us the torso, even tough it 's larger than the helmet, has a lot less parts and is less intricate. Once complete (remember not to close the neck hole) try it on. Tcolar on the neck hole is meant to be small. Your head should NOT fi t through it if all the tabs were glued up. The front should end just under your colar bone. The bacshould end just below where your rib cage ends.

Good fit? Great! use smidge bigger scale for the rest of the pieces. Print the rest of the pieces. Finish glueing the torso.Too big or too small? adjust your scale and build the torso again.


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Image Notes1. Pattern printed and ready for cutting.2. Some parts cut and ready for folding and glueing.

Image Notes1. Quick progress on the back of the torso.

Image Notes1. Torso Pep done.2. Neck left open so my head would fit.

Image Notes1. Scale is 22.xxxxx. Scale is to my height and build.2. Model credits.


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Step 5:Pep The Rest Of The PartsPep all the parts. Keep them in a safe place. If you want go ahead and harden the outside the three possible methods I mentioned in Part 1.

Those methods are:1. Polyester resin.2. General Purpose Epoxy Resin3. Wood glue.

The reason for doing this is to harden the part and to make it waterproof and less likely to rip during the final hardening process.

There are two major variants of the main chest plate. The in-game art shows the chest plate to be a single piece. However the Weta live action shows the chest plate be three pieces. A third reference source is the Rupert Sander live action comercial "We are ODST" has a single large chest plate.

I did two peps for the chest plate. SKG and Nightshades model were used. I decided not to go with the Weta version after the two peps were completed. Nightshades

model turned out to be not wide enough either, so I have modified the chest plate a little. So my chest plate will be slightly costumized.

Image Notes1. My chest plate. ran out of white card stock. had to use my backup - pink.2. extension to make the chest plate wider.3. extension to make my chest plate wider.

Step 6:Hardening the Armor PiecesNow that all the pieces are Pepped and the outside has a thin coat of resin/glue it is time to make the armor tough enough to handle getting Bondo'd.

Again, we have three methods.1. Polyester resin with fiberglass.2. Epoxy Resin with Fiberglass.3. Casting resin (no fiberglass).

Part 1 describes the pros and cons of each method. Read that if you need a refresher. No matter which method you use, remember to put down a large drop cloth unlyou dont care about destroying your floor.

I used method 3 for everything. It is more expensive but the overall process is much simpler. Just mix part A with part B, pour into the model, slosh it around to coat althe parts, and watch it cure. Also, using polyester resin (a.k.a fiberglass resin) would stink up my place and upset my neighbors.


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Image Notes

1. Got this from Hobby Lobby.

Image Notes1. Tap Plastics brand general use epoxy.

Image Notes1. a fan would be a good idea. Wear a respirator.

Image Notes1. I like using cloth instead of mat.


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Image Notes1. Part B2. Part A3. Method 3 - casting resin.

Step 7:Smooth Out The ArmorSame as the helmet, we will be using Bondo automotive body filler to remove the angular folds and polygons left by our pepakura method of building a base. 1/16 to

3/16th of an inch should be enough to make the armor look smooth all over. There are several wide and flat areas where rondo/mud will make easy work of this phaseThe large torso piece will be cut up two(2) pieces. The colar is too small for our head to fit through so a cut is going to be made along the top shoulder. the pieces willthen be held together using elastic bands bonded along the joints. Strong magnets will be use to close the neck ring.

The smaller armor plates will also get the bondo treatment. Several layers of bondo with sanding in between to get rid of low spots and eventually all the pieces will gefinished.

Image Notes1. My PVC and pillows dummy. Made of PVC, old pillows, lots of duct tape anda garbage bag.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Halo-ODST-Armor-Helmet-Part-1-of-6-of-ODST-Armo/


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2. two rough layers of bondo.

Image Notes1. Helmet from part 1.2. Bondo is very rough.3. Collar is rough and not even. Rondo/mud will be used to make neck line leveand cleaner looking.

Image Notes1. First sanding pass done. Still lots of pits and holes.


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Image Notes1. Top of collar cleaned up using the rondo or "mud" method.2. This will need a third layer of bondo to fill holes and pits.

Image Notes1. A very light spray of black paint makes the rough parts and low areas standout. Now I know where to apply more bondo.2. Collar looks a lot cleaner and more level after rondo/mud.

Image Notes1. The right tools for the job. L-R: Black and Decker Mouse Detail Sander,sanding block, Sears rotary tool with sanding drum.2. my foot3. breast plate with Bondo curing (still malleable)


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Step 8:Shoulder Straps and Padded PartsI got a foam camping mat at my local wallymart. It cost $4.97. I Got some glue that should hold foam together and started cutting up the foam.

I glued the foam together to look like shoulder straps and let the glue dry overnight. I painted the foam black, but it did not turn out too good.

I purchased some inexpensive black fabric. I cut that into shape and covered the foam with it. I used more of the glue to secure the fabric to the foam. painting the foablack worked in preventing the blue from showing through the fabric.

Test fitting of the shoulder strap onto my "duct tape dummy" on the last three pictures.

The abdomen pads are made the same way. The datails on the abdomen pads are machined out of aluminum.

Image Notes1. I tried using this one night before cutting it to bits. Does not work well forcamping. But what do you expect for $4.97...

Image Notes1. Cut into shoulder strap

Image Notes1. Front part of armor. Getting close to finishing...

Image Notes1. two shoulder straps


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Image Notes1. Black paint.2. This shape is actually a complimentary shape to the large torso piece.3. Fabric

Image Notes1. Fabric2. Glue

Image Notes1. all dry now

Image Notes1. My PVC, duct tape and old pillows dummy.

Image Notes1. I'll show how this is made on the next step.2. looks good. Just need the nylon straps and the metal buckles.


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Image Notes1. Just need the metal fittings2. Just need the details


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Step 9:Metal BucklesI happen to be luck enough to have access to a mill (and a band saw). For those not as fortunate as I , a hack saw, a Dremel, a file and and some sand paper will alsowork. Granted, it would take you much, much longer then I did to fabricate buckles.

I went to Home Depot and purchased aluminum stock - 1/8" x 2" X 36"

Use a sharpie to color the metal. Cover the entire surface with ink. Get out your ruler and a scribe (sharp metal object). Measure and scribe out the pattern for all thebuckles. I kind of made up the shapes but stuck to a general look similar to what I see online.

NOTE: When cutting aluminum, wd40 really helps.

Next, make rough cuts to seperate out the different buckls using your saw.

Using the metal removal method available to you, cut away metal until the buckle is formed. Note, you can always cut metal away, but adding metal is a lot more diffic

so cut slowly.

And now a video of me mill ing the belt buckle.

The final and very important step is to debur and chamfer the edges. we are making buckles here, not knives, so removing sharp edges is always a good idea.

Image Notes1. 4 buckles for the Shoulder Straps2. Belt Buckle.3. D Rings for the belt4. The ODST Helmet that was too big5. Some other engineering project

Image Notes1. Scribe2. Super accurate ruler3. Scribe line to show me where to cut4. I used black sharpie
http://www.instructables.com/id/Halo-ODST-Armor-Torso-Part-2-of-5-of-ODST-Armor/step9/Metal-Buckles/


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6. Scribe

Image Notes1. D rings for the belt2. Belt buckle3. Blue Sharpie4. Scribe lines

Image Notes1. Rough cuts

Image Notes1. Rough cut Image Notes

1. Rough cut with the band saw.


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Image Notes1. Nice and smooth after facing with the mill

Image Notes1. Cuts like butter.2. I used a 2-flute cutter since I was cutting a channel

Image Notes1. This is why it cut so easy. Also prevents the aluminum from welding onto mycutting bit.

Image Notes1. My deburring tool


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Image Notes1. Debur and chamfer the edges to remove sharpness.

Image Notes1. I think this part can be thinner2. I have to figure out how to make the chunky box on this side

Step 10:Using Rondo / MudI want a weapons hardpoint on the back of the torso. You know, So i can sling a weapon on my back. I thought magnets would be the way to go. But to inbed magnetsmy armors back I needed a raised area. To build up the raised area I decided to use Rondo - aka mud.

I started by building a dam that will contain the mud. Normally I use masking tape but this weapons hardpoint is really high so I opted for modeling clay.

I placed the clay on the back of the torso piece. i made sure it was secure and leak proof.

Next, rondo was mixed up using about three tablespoons of fiberglass resin and three tablespoons of Bondo. I mixed it really well in a cup and then added the catalysmixed that really well too.

I poured the rondo onto the torso.

You really have to be careful about how much catalyst you put in. I put too much and the rondo went into thermal runaway. it heated up so much that it melted the plascup and a large glob of rondo almost plopped onto my torso. Luckily, i saw (and felt) the cup melt and moved it out of the way in time.

After the rondo cured, the clay was removed. I then sanded the rondo into its final shape.


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Image Notes1. modeling clay2. fiberglass resin3. Bondo

Image Notes1. resin and bondo before being mixed into rondo

Image Notes1. My hardpoint where I will install really strong magnets to hold weapons

Image Notes1. full of rondo

Image Notes1. Should always wear this when working with Bondo and fiberglass resin2. Cured.


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3. Wear gloves too

Image Notes1. fully cured and shaped

Step 11:Add DetailsMuch of the armor plates have small details that are too intricate for my skills at pepakura. I have opted to add those additional details using small pieces of balsa andfoam board. Once the bondo is cured and smooth, the detail pieces will be glued on.

Pencil on the groove lines and cut with a dremel and cutting wheel just like the helmet.

Drill pilot holes in locations where screw heads and rivets should be visible. For screws, make the hole just slightly smaller than the screws being used. There should bno need to tap the hole as the material is soft enough and the screws should just self tap into the hole. Cut the screws down so that they just barely poke through theback side. This is done for comfort and safety. Use Locktite to keep the screws from backing out. If the screws are still uncomfortable, cover them with a layer of bondglue a small piece of felt over the area. For rivets, the hole should be the size recommended for the rivet size being used. The pressure from applying rivets can crackbondo so rivets use should be limited.

For the back of the the armor I have added hard mount points for weapons. Inbedded inside the hardpoints are neodymium magnets. A metal plate will be installed onweapon (battle rifle, smg, etc.) so that they can easily be stowed on the back.

Step 12:PaintOnce we are happy with the armor pieces for the torso, it is time for the paint.

Sand all the pieces with fine grit sand paper (220 grit is about right). Use a large brush to remove the bondo dust.

Paint with primer. 3 thin coats is what we need. Lightly sand again with 300 grit.

Next locate areas where damage and chipped paint should be. Paint those areas with silver. Buff the silver. Mist the silver area with black or gray to "age" silver a littleam talking very light mist. If you are building a clean, "Cherry", noob, "just out of boot camp" ODST persona, then skip the silver paint.

Get out your condiment (or desert) choice and smear it on the silver area. make sure to vary your shapes and paterns. Again, if your persona/armor is "cherry", skip thstep.

Paint with your final color. Three to four thin layers is what you want to achieve a smooth, even finish with no runs or bubbles.Let the paint dry. If there is condiment (opudding) under the final color, wipe down the armor with a damp cloth. If this is prestine armor, buff the dry paint with a dry soft cloth.

Personally, I like battle damage. Why? It hides the imperfections on my armor build. If there is an area that could have been done better, i can just say "I meant it to lodamaged." Plus, a soldier with armor that has wear and tear looks tougher.

Paint the armor pieces with a final coat of matte clear. One or two thin layers should be plenty.


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Step 13:Straps And Bindings And Other DetailsNylon straps will need to be attached to the armor pieces. Glue them on the back side with a strong adhesive like Gorilla Glue. We will finalize the straps and bindingwhen the under-armor is complete.

For added detail, perhaps dust or mud should be rubbed against the armor. Burn marks f rom "laser" and plasma weapons would be a cool touch. smudging black painhere and there could make it look more battle-worn too.

I was considering finding some purple crystal-like rod and sticking one or two into non-vital organ parts of the armor to simulate hits from a Needler.

On to Part 3 - The Arms...

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Comments

6 comments Add Comment

kiongsonsays: Oct 30, 2010. 8:34 AM REPWhats rondo?

vv_767says: Oct 30, 2010. 6:52 PM REPfiberglass Resin and Bondo = Rondo. It pours like resin and thick like pancake batter. Great for filling out a large flat area.

kiongsonsays: Oct 30, 2010. 7:29 PM REPDo you just pour bondo in the same cup as fiberglass?

vv_767says: Oct 31, 2010. 9:35 PM REPI explained it in this Instructable.And here also

kiongsonsays: Nov 1, 2010. 1:33 PM REPOh, okay. Thanks

kiongsonsays: Oct 31, 2010. 10:07 PM REPOh, okay. Thanks
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Documents

Halo ODST Armor Torso Part 2 of 5 of ODST Armor