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Appraising Gems & Jewelryby Jamie Clark Tiralla
About JamieExperience & Education
Started in jewelry in 1999Graduate GemologistGemological Institute of America - Carlsbad, CA
(2003)Gemologist & Appraiser for Maertens Fine Jewelry & Gifts since 2003Certified Gemologist American Gem Society (2008)
Jamie Clark TirallaGraduate Gemologist (GIA)
Areas of Focus & SpecialtiesDiamonds, Gemstones, Fine Jewelry and WatchesEstate + Antique Jewelry and Watches
Types of AppraisalsInsurance Replacement Appraisals
Estate AppraisalsGemstone Identification
Jewelry Verification
About Jamie
Why Have Jewelry AppraisedInsurance Purposes
What if the piece was lost or stolen…Estate Evaluations
Legal document to settle an estate…Resale Purposes
What if you wanted to sell your jewelry…
Verification (Piece of Mind)
Did you get what you paid for…
Insurance Appraisals“The amount it would cost to replace an item with one of similar and like quality purchased in the most appropriate marketplace within a limited amount of time.” Definition from the Appraisers Association of America
Retail, replacement valueHow much would a similar item cost in a retail setting?Re-evaluate every 3 to 5 yearsShould it include sales tax?
Estate AppraisalsCalculated at fair market value, “the price that property would sell for on the open market between a willing buyer and a willing seller, with neither being required to act and both having reasonable knowledge of the relevant facts.” Definition from the Appraisers Association of America
Generally less than a replacement valueHow much would a dealer pay, what would it sell for at auction?Determined at a specific date
Verification ReportFormal document to verify the type of metal, quality of diamonds and/or gemstonesDoes not suggest a value
Is the Appraiser QualifiedIndependent Appraiser vs. Jeweler Appraiser
Education and Continuing Education
Experience
What’s in an AppraisalMore than just a value!Detailed description of the piece of jewelryManufacturers name, hallmarksPhoto(s) of the jewelryCover letter explaining purpose of documentDate, Current Metal Prices
How Do You Appraise JewelryEquipment
Magnification LightingGemstone Identification
10X Loupe FluorescentRefractometer
Microscope IncandescentPolariscope
UltravioletSpectrascope
Weights & Measures Metal Testing Other ToolsMillimeter Guage Testing Stone
CleanersScale Acid Tests
Tweezers
Appraising JewelryType of Jewelry: Ex. Man’s Ring; Lady’s NecklaceType and Purity of Metal: Ex. 14kt white gold; Platinum (10%IRID)Weights & Measures: Weight of piece; length of chain; width of ringManufacturer or DesignerType of Setting: Ex. Bezel set; Six-prong settingNumber, Type and Size of Diamonds and/or GemsDescription of Piece
Appraising Diamonds
Appraising Diamonds
Determining Value
Market research, trade journals, pricing guides
Finding real comparables
Appraising Gemstones
First step: Identify type of gemstone
Loupe
Microscope
Refractometer
Appraising GemstonesColor: Hue, Intensity, Saturation
Cut: Shape, Symmetry, Proportions
Clarity: Standards vary by type of gem
Carat Weight
Special Characteristics: Example Opals, Star Sapphires
Appraising Gemstones
Determining Value
Market research, trade journals, pricing guides
Finding real comparables
Natural vs. Synthetic
Natural Diamonds & Gems
Formed in natureSynthetic Diamonds & Gems
Lab GrownIdentical chemical and crystal structure to natural counterparts
Natural vs. SyntheticLab created gems have been popular in jewelry since late 1800sDiamonds successfully synthesized 1940s
Synthetic diamonds rarely exceed 1 carat
A majority of synthetic diamonds and gems are used in manufacturing: watch parts, computer parts, industrial abrasives
Natural vs. SyntheticNearly every natural gemstone has a synthetic counterpart
Most common in jewelry: Ruby, Sapphire, Emerald
How Can You Tell The Difference?
Use magnification (loupe or microscope)
Evaluate the gems inclusions
Evaluate growth patterns
Natural vs. Synthetic
Synthetic Ruby Exhibiting Curved Striae
Synthetic Emerald With
“Nailhead” Spicule Inclusions
Natural vs. Synthetic
Synthetic (Flame Fusion)Ruby With Red Fluorescence Under UV Light
Synthetic Sapphire Crystals (Flame Fusion)
Natural vs. SimulantSimulant and Imitation
Gemstones that look like a natural gemstone but are a completely
different material
Example: Diamonds vs. Cubic Zirconia vs. Moissanite
Natural vs. Simulant
Diamond vs. Cubic Zirconia
How can you tell the difference?
Natural vs. SimulantDiamond vs. Cubic ZirconiaHow effective are thermal testers?What if the Cubic Zirconia has a coating?“Diamantine” colorless cubic zirconia with a thin layer (~5nm) of carbon, aluminum and titanium which improve the optic characteristics of a CZ, give a false positive read in thermal testing, but do not withstand long term wear...
Natural vs. SimulantDiamond vs. Cubic ZirconiaHow can you tell the difference?
Using a loupe, study the surface of the gem. Diamonds are the hardest material and take a very crisp polish, unlike CZ. Facet lines will be sharp, with straight edges.
Natural vs. SimulantDiamond vs. Cubic ZirconiaHow can you tell the difference?
Look at the stone’s girdle. Diamonds are typically polished and faceted, however they may be left rough (bruted). A CZ will be polished smooth (in some cases faceted) but will not be as crisp.
Natural vs. SimulantDiamond vs. Cubic Zirconia
Left: Cubic Zirconia with polished girdle, left smooth, somewhat waxy in appearance.Right: Diamond with faceted girdle
Natural vs. SimulantDiamond vs. Cubic Zirconia
Left: Diamond with faceted girdle / Right: Diamond with bruted girdle “bearded”
Natural vs. SimulantDiamond vs. Cubic Zirconia
“Breath Test” - Breath on the stone like you’re fogging a window. Diamonds will clear almost instantly, compared to CZ which will take longer.
Natural vs. SimulantDiamond vs. Cubic Zirconia“See Through Test” - If the stone is unmounted, you can place it table down over a piece of printed material. If you can read through the stone, it is not likely a diamond.
Natural vs. SimulantDiamond vs. MoissaniteDiamonds are single refractiveMoissanite is double refractiveMoissanite has a higher dispersionthan diamonds (.044 vs .104)Moissanite is lab-created, inclusions will vary significantly from a natural diamond
Example of “doubling” in Moissanite
Natural vs. SimulantGlass & Plastic
Glass and Plastic are common, inexpensive and can recreate the look of any gemstone.
Glass used in jewelry since the ancient Roman times.
Plastics have existed since the 1800s.
Gemstone Treatments
Technically, all diamonds and gemstones are “treated” as they are taken from their original “rough” state and faceted, cleaned and/or shaped into a marketable gem.
Diamond TreatmentsTreatments To Improve Clarity
Fracture Filled
Laser Drilled
Diamond TreatmentsTreatments To Improve ColorIrradiation is used to change low colored diamonds to more desirable “fancy” colors.
Gemstone TreatmentsHeat TreatmentImproves color and/or clarityCommonly heat treated gems:
Sapphire AmberRuby AquamarineTopaz Tourmaline
Tanzanite ZirconQuartz Silk Inclusions in an unheated
blue sapphire
Gemstone TreatmentsIrradiated GemstonesImprove ColorCommon gems that are irradiated:
Blue Topaz Green AmethystOrange Sapphire AmetrineGreen Sapphire Black Pearls
Irradiated Ametrine
Gemstone TreatmentsFracture FillingImproves Clarity; most common in Emeralds
Left: untreated Emerald / Right: after oil treatment
Gemstone TreatmentsGlass-filled Rubies
Gemstone TreatmentsThere are a few gemstones that are almost never treated including:
GarnetSpinelPeridotGreen TourmalineOrange, Brown and Red Zircon Multi-colored Garnets
Buying Jewelry
Shop at a place you know and trustResearch vs. Impulse BuysBuying jewelry onlineBuying for investment purposes
Buying Jewelry
Before you buy a piece of jewelry:1. Know the return policy2. Ask about warranties3. If it’s not in new condition, find out what repairs are needed first
Buying Jewelry
Before you buy a piece of jewelry:4. Details about the metal quality5. Details about the diamonds/gemstones6. What’s the best price?
Buying Jewelry
Shopping for jewelry online:1. Know the return policy2. Ask about warranty3. How trustworthy is the seller?4. Get photos and details of the jewelry
Investing in JewelryBuy something because you love it and you’ll wear itInvesting in gold, diamonds and gems is not for novice collectorsThese markets are highly volatileIt’s not worth “anything” until you sell it
Buying DiamondsKnow the 4C’s - Which one is most important?It never hurts to shop around - Can you get a better deal on the internet?Look at the diamond under magnification before you buy it - know your stone’s “birthmarks”
Buying DiamondsDiamond Certificates - Not all are “equal”Gemological Institute of America (GIA) American Gem Society Laboratory (AGS)EGL USA Gemological Labs (EGL)
Laboratory should issue a report, never an appraisal or a value
Buying GemstonesBefore you buy a gemstone, ask yourself:How often you want to wear it? When? Where?What type of work do you do? Are you “hard” on your jewelry?
Buying GemstonesMost gemstones are not suitable for daily wear
Every DayDiamondsSapphiresRubiesJade
Frequent WearTopazGarnetTourmalineSpinel
Occasional WearEmeraldsOpalsTanzanitePearls
Buying GemstonesWhat Questions to Ask:1. Was the gemstone treated? How?2. Is the origin of the gemstone known?3. How does the stone look in different kinds of light?4. Look at the stone under magnification
Buying GemstonesGem Lab Testing & CertificatesGemological Institute of America (GIA) EGL USA Gemological Labs (EGL)American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) - closed in 2009
Laboratory should issue a report, never an appraisal or a value
Selling JewelryWhat are your goals? Do you want the most amount of money you can get?Do you want to sell it very quickly?Have the piece appraisedSelling to a dealer vs. consignment vs. private saleSelling jewelry online
Thank You!
Jamie Clark [email protected]
301.651.7029
Available By AppointmentMaertens Fine Jewelry & Gifts
Lusby, Marylandwww.maertensjewelry.com
410.394.3990