KAPANGIDWE NDI KAGWIRITSIDWE NTCHITO KA

KOMPOSITI NDI FETELEZA

MANURE, COMPOST AND FERTILIZER MANAGEMENT

MAU OYAMBA

Chipalamba chimachitika ngati zinthu monga kusamalira ndi kudzala mitengo, kulima

mwakasinthasintha komanso mwadongosolo ndi zina zomwe zimapangitsa kuti nthaka ikhale

yachonde sizikutsatidwa. Zotsatira zake ndi zakuti zokolola pa munda zimakhala zochepa

poyerekeza ndi zomwe tikanakolola nthaka ili bwino bwino.

Zinanso zomwe zapangitsa kuti nthaka iguge ndi kudzala mothinana, kugwiritsa ntchito fetereza

mopsyola muyeso, kulima mosatsatira njira zotetezera nthaka.

Kupanga ndi kugwiritsa ntchito kompositi ndi njira yokhayo yomwe tiyenera kulimbikitsana.

Kabukuka kalembedwa ndicholinga chakuti tikumbutsane kufunikira kwa kupanga komanso

kugwiritsa ntchito Kompositi.

Ambiri amakhulupilira kugwiritsa ntchito ndowe za ziweto ngati manyowa. kudalira ndowe zokha

sikokwanira chifukwa ziweto sizokwanira komanso sizikhala malo amodzi kuti zipange ndowe

zambiri.

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MITUNDU YA FETELEZA

Feteleza ndi mchere umene umapezeka munthaka ngati chakudya cha mbewu kuti zikule ndi

kubeleka bwino. Pali feteleza wopangidwa mu njira ya chilengedwe yemwe zitsanzo zake ndi

manyowa komanso ndowe pongotchulapo zina komanso feteleza wopangidwa mu njira za

sayansi. Feteleza uyu ndi yemwe anthu ambiri tikumudziwa monga UREA, DAP pongotchulapo

wina wochepa.

Feteleza opangidwa m’njira ya sayansi

Pali feteleza okhala ndi chakudya cha m’tundu umodzi ndi wina okhala ndi zakudya zingapo za

mbeu.

Feteleza wa chakudya cha mtundu umodzi:

Fetelezayu amakhala ndi chimodzi mwa zakudya za mbeu izi nitrogen, phosphate kapena

potassium (Urea, Superphosphate, Potassium Chloride)

Feteleza okhala ndi zakudya zingapo zambeu:

Fetelezayu amakhala ndi ziwiri kapena zingapo mwa zakudya za mbeu izi nitrogen, phosphate

kapena potassium zonse mu kam’bulu kamodzi ka feteleza.

Kumasulira manambala a pa nthumba la feteleza

Nambala ili yonse ikusonyeza kuchuluka kwa zakudya mwa ndondomeko

iyi: nitrogen, phosphate ndi potassium kuchoka kumanzere kupita

kumanja. Thumba ili likusonyeza kuti kuchuluka kwa n’tundu uliwonse pa

100gramms ndi kofanana (14% wina aliyense).

Ubwino ndi kuipa kogwiritsa ntchito fetereza:

Ubwino - Amakhala ndi zakudya zingapo za

mbeu

- Ndi osabvuta kuthira

-amapeleka zakudya za mbeu

pompopompo

-sachedwa kusungunuka

Kuipa - Ndiowopsya ku nthupi la

munthu

- Ndiwodula (okwera mtengo)

- Akhonza kuwononga madzi ndi

chilengedwe china

- Amagugitsa nthaka

- Sachedwa kutsukika ndi mvula

- Sabwezeretsa chonde

- atha kuwawula mbeu ngati

sitinatsate dongosolo la

kathiridwe

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Table 1. Mawonekedwe ena afeteleza wokhala ndi chakudwa chimodzi

Feteleza Zomwe

zilimo Mawonekedwe ake

Sulphate of ammonia

(Washuga)

21% N

� Wosungunuka mmadzi

� Amapangisa nthaka kukhala ya

nchere

� Sapita pansi nsanga

� Sayamwa chinyezi kuchokera kunja

� Zotsalira zake zimawoneka ngati

zoyera ndipo ali ngati suga

Urea 46% N

� Amasungunuka mmadzi nsanga

� Sapereka mchere ku nthaka

� Amagwira ntchito nsanga

� Amayamwa chinyontho kunja

� Amawoneka woyera

CAN 26-28% N +

Calcium

� Amasungunuka mmadzi nsanga

� Amathandiza kuchepesa mchere wa

munthaka ngati wachuluka

� Amayamwa chinyontho kunja

� Amasamalira nthaka ndi

kubwezeretsedwa ngati ku

chilengedwe.

� Amawoneka ngati wa chikasu kapena

woyelerako pang’ono

Single Super phosphate 8.5% P2O5

� Amasungunuka mmadzi nsanga

� Samasungunuka munthaka yomwe ili

ndi mchere

� Amawoneka ngati wa chikasu kapena

woyelerako pang’ono

Double Super phosphate 45% P2O5

� Amasungunuka mmadzi nsanga

� Samasungunuka munthaka yomwe ili

ndi mchere

� Sapereka mchere ku nthaka

� Zotsalira zimawoneka ngati za mbuu

pang’ono

Sulphate of Potash 40% K2O

� Amasungunuka nsanga

� Sapita pansi nsanga

� Amawoneka ngati wosefeka komanso

wa chikasu.

Muriate of Potash 60% K2O � Amasungunuka nsanga

� Sapita pansi nsanga

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FETELEZA WACHILENGEDWE

Manyowa ochokera m’khola la ziweto

Awa ndi manyowa opangidwa kuchokera ku ndowe ndi mkodzo wa ziweto. Ziwetozi ndi monga

ng’ombe, mbuzi, nkhosa, nkhumba komanso nkhuku ndi zina. Manyowawa amakhala ndi

mphamvu yochulukirapo yobiliwiritsa (nitrogen N) ndi kulimbitsa (potassium K) Koma

amafooka pakhani yokhwimitsa mbewu (phosphorus P). Ubwino/mphamvu za manyowawa

zimadalira zaka ndi mtundu wa ziweto zomwe munthu akuweta, zakudya zomwe ziwetozo

zikudya komanso kasungidwe ndi malo omwe manyowa asungidwapo.

Table 2. Zomwe mphamvu za manyowa zidalira

Zomwe manyowawa adalira Zopangidwa

Mtundu wa chiweto Ziweto monga ng’ombe zonenepetsedwera

mkhola zimapeleka manyowa amphamvu

Msinkhu wa chiweto

Nyama zazikulu zimapeleka manyowa

amphamvu komanso ochulukirapo kusiyana

ndi ana.

Mtundu wa zakudya

Kudyetsa zakudya zosiyanasiyana

kumapangitsa kuti manyowa akhale

amphamvu.

Mtundu wa zogonera � Zogonera zomwe zimayamwa

mkodzo zimawolerana mwachangu.

Kukhalitsa kwa manyowa � Manyowa okhalitsa amakhala ndi

mphamvu kusiyana ndi osakhalitsa.

Kasungidwe ka manyowa Manyowa asungidwe pa m’nthunzi osati pa

dzuwa kuopa kuti mphamvu ina ingauluke.

Kompositi

Kompositi amapangika kuchokera ku mbeu ndi nyama zomwe zawolelana kwa kanthawi.

Kuwoleranaku tikhoza kukufulumizitsa ngati tigwiritsa ntchito zinthu monga yeast kapenanso

mitundu ina ya feteteleza wa njira ya sayansi.

Kompositi ndi osabvuta kupanga ndipo amapeleka zosowekera zambiri ku mbeu zathu.

Kompositi amapangitsa kuti m’pweya ndi madzi mu nthaka zikhale zopezeka pa mulingo

wabwino ku mbeu.

Kompositi ndiwothandiza kwambiri kumunda komanso chilengedwe.

Kumunda

Kompositi amabwezeretsa chonde kuti mbeu zizikula ndi nthanzi komanso kupilira ku

matenda. Madzi ndi mpweya zimapezeka mu nthaka pa mlingo wabwino ku mbeu. Minda

imafewa polima.

Chilengedwe

Chifukwa cha kuwolerana kwa zinthu, kompositi amachepetsa kuchuluka kwa zinyalala ndipo

pakutelo kuchepetsa ndalama zomwe zingagwiritsidwe ntchito pakuchotsa zinyalalazi.

Kugwiritsa ntchito kompositi kudzakupangitsani kusiya kudalira feteleza wa njira ya sayansi

paulimi wanu ndipo pakutelo mudzachepetsa ndalama zomwe mumawononga paulimi wanu

komanso kuteteza ndi kusamala chilengedwe.

Kuti tipange kompositi wabwino pafunika zinthu zaziwisi/zobiliwila ndi zowuma. Zimenezi

zimapeleka thanzi ndi mphamvu ku tizilombo tomwe timathandiza kupanga kompositi.

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Zinthu za ziwisi/zobiliwila ndi monga:

• Udzu oduladula

• Ndowe zaziwisi (hatchi, nkhuku, kalulu, ng’ombe)

• Zotsalira za ku kitchini (zipatso, masamba, masamba a tiyi ndi a khofi)

• Masamba awisi amitengo (green leaves)

• Zipatso zomwe zikuonongeka

Zowuma ndi monga:

• Masamba a mitengo/udzu

• Mapesi

• Zopala za matabwa

Kuti tipange kompositi pafunika:

• Zinyalala monga mapesi, masangwi, udzu, masamba a mitengo monga Gliricidia, ndiwo

za masamba zotaidwa ndi zina

• Madzi

• Phulusa

• Ndowe komanso zipangizo zina monga:

• Zikwanje

• Makasu

• Chingwe choyesera

• Ndowa

• Chifafa

• Ndodo

Table 3. Pali zinthu zina zomwe sitiyenera kugwiritsa ntchito popanga Kompositi.

0nani mu bokosi lili m’musimu

Zoyenera Zosayenera

High Nitrogen Udzu opopeledwa ndi mankhwala

Ndowe Mbeu za matenda

Zomela za m’madzi Zidutswa za zitsulo

Nkhoko Pepala la pulasitiki

Zikamba za mazira Mafuta anyama

Makoko a zipatso Ndowe za galu kapena mphaka

Masangwi

Udzu oduladula

Masese

High Carbon

Udzu wouma

Utuchi

Deya wa mpunga

Phulusa

NJIRA ZOPANGIRA MANYOWA

Pali njira ziwiri zazikulu zopangira manyowa:

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� Njira ya pansi monga kompositi wa pa dzenje

� Njira ya pa ntunda monga Chinese, chimato, felemu ndi bokashi

Tisanayambe kupanga kompositi tiwonetsetse kuti:

• Zinyalala zonse ndi zoduladula 10-15cm

• Tasankha malo abwino opangira manyowa athu a mthunzi komanso odutsa

mpweya

• Malo achitetezo bwino

• Takumbiratu dzenje ngati tasankha mtundu umenewu

Tiyeni titsate ndondomeko izi popanga kompositi wa pa dzenje

Kumbani mayenje awiri a 2-2.5 m mulitali,

1.2-2 m mulifupi ndipo 60 cm kuzama.

Ikani zinyalala zoduladula zomwe ndi zolimba pansi ndipo

kuchuluka kwake kukhale 10cm.

Wazani madzi

-Wazani ndowe zozama 2 cm

- Ikani zinyalala zina zozama 10 cm .

- Wazani phulusa lokwana manja 10 odzadza.

- Wazani 1 cm ya dothi la pamwamba.

- Wazani madzi bwino bwino

- Pangani chimodzimodzi mpaka dzenje litadzadza ndipo lituluke

ndi 20-30cm kuchoka pa nthaka.

- Wazani mulu wanu ndi madzi.

- Phimbani ndi udzu kapena masamba a nthochi.

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- Pisani mtengo mopingasa kuti moone ngati kompositi akuphikika. - Zulani ndodo

ndikumvetsera matethedwe.

- Ngati ndodo isakutetha pakatha masabata

awiri kapena atatu, phwasulani muluwo

ndikupanga wina mu dzenje lina.

-Yesaninso kuzika mtengo

- Kompositi wanu amakhala atapsya pakatha masabata

anayi.

KOMPOSITI WA PAMTUNDA:

Unjikani mapesi okwanira ndi kuwadula bwino mziduswa zing’onozing’ono

- Kapangidwe kake ndi chimodzi-modzi ndi wa pa dzenje. Onani zithunzi.

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- Mulu utalike 1.0–1.5m, pansi tilembelele 1.5-2.0m ndipo mulitali mutengere kukula kwa

malo opangira manyowa.

1.5 - 2.0 m

3.0 m or more

1.0 - 1.5 m

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- Tembenuzani mulu wanu pakatha masabata 2-3

- Onani ngati kompositi wanu akutentha

Kasungidwe ka kompositi

Kompositi amakhala atapsya pakatha masabata anai.Sungani kompositi wanu potsatira njira

izi:

� Onetsetsani kuti manyowa ali ndi chinyezi chokwana 35% mpaka nthawi yomwe

mukufuna kugwiritsa ntchito.

� Sungani manyowa pa mthunzi.

� Mukhoza kusunganso kompositi m’matumba.

Mmene mungagwiritsire ntchito manyowa

Manyowa mukhonza kugwiritsa ntchito ku mbeu zambiri

� Mukhonza kuthira ku mbeu zakumunda monga chimanga kapena za masamba

podzadza manja awiri pa dzenje lili lonse

� Mukhonza kudzadza manja ndi kuthira pa mulingo osapitilira 10cm

� Mukhonzanso kuthira mbali mwa mbeu zanu pansi penipeni

Manyowa omwe sanapsye kwenikweni mukhonza kuyala pansi pa mbeu zanu kapena pansi pa

mbeu za mitengo. Ndikoyenera kuvindikira manyowa oterewa ndi dzinthu zolimbirapo

kuwopesa kuti angauluke ndi mphepo.

� Manyowa mukhonza kuthira ku mbande zamitengo

� Mukhonzanso kuthira mmayiwe ansomba ngati zakudya za nsomba

Manyowa obiiriwira

Pa malimidwe, manyowa obiliwira ndi mbeu yomwe imadzalidwa mwadaladala kuti iphimbe

nthaka ndikudzakwiriridwa munthaka isanafike nthawi yoti ibeleke. Mbeuyi imawonjezera

mchere mu nthaka kudzera ku mizu ndi masamba ake amene amakwirilidwa. Mwachidule

ntchito zake ndi kubwezeretsa chonde munthaka komanso kuteteza nthaka. Ubwino wina wa

manyowa wobiliwila ndi uwu:

• Tizilombo tomwe timapezeka mu tizotupa/mandolo ta m’mizu ya mbeyu zomwe

zimadzalidwira ntchitoyi timapanga nitrogeni yemwe mbeu zina zimagwiritsa ntchito

pompo-pompo.

• Kupezeka kwa mpwyeya, madzi ndi zina munthaka kumakhala kwabwino chifukwa cha

masamba omwe amaolelana.

• Mbeu zimakoka zakudya za mbeu zomwe zili pansi pogwiritsa ntchito muzu wawo wozama.

• Mbeu yodzalidwa imachepetsa kameledwe ka udzu m’munda.

• Mbeu ngati yasiyidwa kuti ipange maluwa imakopa tizilombo tomwe timathandiza

kukhwimitsa mbeu.

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Monga liulo likumvekera manyowawa amapangidwa kuchokera ku zomera zimene tsidzinaume

monga udzu, mbeu zina monga chimanga kapena mbeu za mtundu wa nyemba zomwe zidakali

zaziwitsi. Izi zimaphatikidzidwa kunthaka zisanayambe maluwa. Pakutha pa mwezi umodzi

kapena iwiri zimawola ndi kusanduka dothi mothandizidwa ndi tizirombo tingo’no-tingo’no

tosawoneka ndi maso athu. Manyowawa amathandiza kuteteza nthaka yathu kuti isakokoloke

ndi madzi. Komabe manyowawa amathanso kufalitsa matenda ku mbeu ngati zomwe

zapangidwira zili ndi matenda.

Chifukwa chiyani tiyenera kuthira manyowa?

Pambali popereka chonde ku nthaka yathu,manyowa amathandiza kubwezera nthaka ku

chilengedwe chake.Potero mpweya ndi madzi zimasungika bwino mu nthaka yanu,

powonjezera apo zakudya za mbeu zimasungika ndi kumadyetsera mbeu pango’no-pang’ono.

Manyowa amathandizanso nthaka yathu kuti ikhale yopanda nchere wambiri.

Table 4. Ubwino ndi kuipa kwa manyowa

Ubwino wa Manyowa Kuipa kwa Manyowa

� Manyowa ndi osavuta kupanga

komanso osakwera mtengo

� Amabwezeretsa chonde monga

mmene nthaka inapangidwira

� Amasunga madzi ngati siponje

� Amasunga tizirombo tina tamunthaka

� Manyowa amawonjezera ntchito zina

za tizirombo tamunthaka

� Alibe zakudya za mbeu zokwanira

� Amafunika kuthira ochuluka pa malo

ochepa

� Amafunika khama kuti atheke ndi

kuthira

� Amafunikira nthawi yabwino kuti

apangidwe

� Amapereka zakudya za munthaka

pango’no-pang’ono

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INTRODUCTION

Soil depletion occurs when the components which contribute to fertility are removed and not

replaced and the conditions which support soil fertility are not maintained. This leads to poor

crop yields. In agriculture, depletion can be due to excessively intense cultivation and inadequate soil management.

In some places, soils have been depleted through rapid and almost total nutrient removal

because of the combined effects of growing population densities, of continuous cropping of

farmlands without proper soil conservation measures, of overtillage which damages soil

structure and of overuse of synthetic fertilizers and herbicides, which leave residues and buildups that inhibit microorganisms and salinization of soil.

Other means of soil rejuvenation, such as manure use must, therefore, be explored and

encouraged. The purpose of this training manual for soil conservation is to introduce

composting and other soil conservation practices to farmers in our villages.

Farmyard manure is the most commonly used organic fertiliser world wide. It demands

farming systems which permit effective collection of animal dropping. This can not be managed

with free roaming livestock. Only a proper and an integrated farm management with

appropriate animal housing facilities and manure collection, permits to make best use of these

valuable sources for the sake of improving soil fertility from farm own resources at low

external cost.

Soil fertility is maintained by putting back into soil the nutrients removed by crops or lost

through leaching and soil erosion. Once soil fertility is maintained for high crop yields, good

farming practices help to prevent loss of soil fertility and replace the nutrients that have been

lost.

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CLASSIFICATION OF FERTILISERS

Fertilisers are substances which, when added to the soil, supply plant nutrients. Fertilisers can

be classified into two groups, namely inorganic or chemical fertilisers and organic fertilisers or

manure.

Inorganic or chemical fetilisers

Inorganic fertilizer is classified into straight fertilizer and mixed fertilizer.

Straight (or single) fertilisers:

Fertiliser containing single nutrient of nitrogen, phosphate or potassium (Urea,

Superphosphato, Potassiu Chloride)

Compound (or mixed) fertilisers:

Fertiliser containing more than double nutrients of nitrogen, phosphate or potassium.

Compound fertiliser is a form of mixed fertiliser, which contains all elements in one granule

(designated blended fertilisers, paste fertiliser, liquid fertiliser)

Meaning of numbers written on a bag of fertilizer

Each number shows the content ratio of nitrogen, phosphate and

potassium from left to right. This example shows that this pack of

fertiliser contains nitrogen, phosphate and potassium 14% each.

14-14-14 means that there is 42g of fertilizer elements in 100g content.

Advantages and disadvantages of inorganic fertilisers:

Advantages

- They contain a lot of nutrients

- They do not require a lot of

labour during application

- The supply of nutrients

iimmediate

- Nutrients are easily soluble

in the soil

Disadvantages

- They are dangerous for human

health

- They are expensive

- They may cause soil and water

pollution

- The soil may become acidic with

continued use

- Some of the nutrients may leach

- Some of the nutrients may become

fixed, e.g. phosphorus

- They do not improve soil structure

- Crops may be damaged if they are

not properly applied

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Table 1. Some characteristics of straight fertilisers

Fertiliser Characteristics

Sulphate of Ammonia

21% N

- Soluble in water

- Makes soil acidic

- Does not leach easily

- Does not absorb moisture from the air

- Crystals are white and very fine, like sugar

Urea

46% N

- Readily dissolves in water

- Has no acid effect on the soil

- Acts quickly

- Absorb moisture from the air

- Granules are white

CAN

26-28% N + Calcium

- Soluble in water

- Helps to neutralise soil acidity

- Improves soil structure

- Absorbs moisture from the air

- Colour varies from yellow to brown

Single Super Phosphate

8.5% P2O5

- Soluble in water

- Insoluble in acidic soil

- Supplies sulphur

- Granules are creamy-white

Double Super Phosphate

45% P2O5

- Soluble in water

- Insoluble in acid soil

- Has no acid effect on the soil

- Granules are grey

Sulphate of Potash

40% K2O

- Very soluble in water

- Does not leach

- Granules are fine like salt and yellowish

Muriate of Potash

60% Potash K2O

- Very soluble in water

- Does not leach

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ORGANIC FERTILISERS

Farm Yard Manure (FYM)

It is sometimes called kraal or khola manure.

This is the traditional manure and is mostly readily available to the farmers. Farm yard manure

is a decomposed mixture of Cattle dung and urine with straw and litter used as bedding

material and residues from the fodder fed to the cattle.

The sources of farmyard manure include sheep, cattle, goats, pigs, and poultry. The manure is

rich in nitrogen (N) and potassium (K) but has very little phosphorus (P). The quality of

farmyard manure depends on the type of animal, the age of the animal, the kind of feed given

to the animals, the kind of litter used, the age of the manure and method of storage.

Table 2. Factors that affect the quality of farmyard manure (FYM)

Factor Effect

Type of animal Animals fed on concentrates such as

fattening animals produce rich manure

Age of the animal

Young animals use up most of the nutrients

in the feed. Old animals, therefore, produce

better manure.

Type of feed given to animals

The richer the feed in terms of

carbohydrates, proteins and other

minerals, the richer the manure will be

Type bedding material used

• Litter which is able to absorb a lot of

urine and can easily decompose

produces good quality manure

• Some litter may be poor in itself,

eg. Saw dust, maize stover, etc

• Stalks and wood shavings do not

decompose easily to produce good

manure

• Othe materials that are rich in

nutrients such as elephant grass,

produce good quality manure.

Elephant grass is rich in nitrogen

and phosphorous. However, it does

not absorb a lot of urine

Age of farmyard manure

• Old and well-rotted farm yard

manure is rich in nutrients

• Farmyard manure should be given

enough time to rot before it is used

Method of storage Farmyard manure should be stored under a

shed to prevent nutrients from leaching

Compost

Compost is simply decomposed organic material. The organic material can be plant material or

animal matter. While composting may seem mysterious or complicated, it’s really a very

simple and natural process that continuously occurs in nature, often without any assistance

from mankind.

Both living plants and annual plants that die at the end of the season are consumed by animals

of all sizes, from larger mammals, birds, and rodents to worms, insects, and microscopic

organisms. The result of this natural cycle is compost, a combination of digested and

undigested food that is left on the forest floor to create rich, usually soft, sweet-smelling soil.

Compost is good for two very compelling reasons. It’s great for the garden/field, and it’s

environmentally responsible.

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Garden benefits

Compost is great for the garden because it improves the soil, which in turn supports healthier

and more productive plants. Compost provides virtually all of the essential nutrients for

healthy plant growth and it almost always releases those nutrients over time to give plants a

slow, steady, consistent intake of the elements essential for growth. Compost also improves

the soil’s structure, making it easier for soil to hold and use the right amount of moisture and

air. Compost will improve the texture of both clay and sandy soil; indeed, compost is the best

additive to make either clay or sandy soil into rich, moisture holding, loamy soil. And, as an

added benefit, compost improves plant vigor and provides for improved immunology from

diseases.

Environmental benefits

The most obvious environmental benefit is that composting can significantly reduce the

amount of solid waste. Clearly, the more we compost, the less we contribute to the cost of

trash removal and the volume of solid materials in landfills.

Using compost to feed your field and garden will also reduce your dependency on

chemical fertilisers. So, you’ll save money and reduce – if not eliminate - the

potential of chemical pollution to your little piece of the environment.

Using compost instead of chemical fertilisers will ensure that your field and garden thrive in

soil that is alive and healthy.

The best compost can be made if the following factors are combined well: type of material, air,

moisture, temperature, soil acidity (pH).

Ingredients in compost

To prepare the compost, two classes of materials are needed, simply referred to as “Greens” or

fresh and “Browns” or dry. Green materials are high in nitrogen, while brown materials are

high in carbon. The green materials provide protein for the microbes while the brown materials

provide energy.

Typical green materials are:

• Fresh (green) Grass clippings

• Fresh manure (horse, chicken, rabbit, cow)

• Kitchen scraps (fruit, vegetables, coffee grounds, tea bags)

• Weeds

• Green leaves

• Leftover fruits from the garden

Typical brown materials include:

• Brown, dry leaves

• Dried grass

• Cornstalks (shredded)

• Straw

• Sawdust (in moderation)

Some materials are NOT REQUIRED. See the table below:

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Table 3. Materias that can and cannot be added to a compost pile

Yes No

High Nitrogen Plant sprayed with chemicals

Animal manure Diseased plant material

Aquitic weeds i Metal pieces

Bread Plastic material

Egg shells Fatty food wastes

Fruit peels and rinds Dog or cat manure

Legume leavesi

Leguminous leaves

Grass clippings

High Carbon

Dry weeds

Paper

Saw dust

Wood ash

Straw

Wood chips

Compost preparation

There are two methods of compost preparation. These are:

� Deep Bed Method

� The Open Heap Method

Deep Bed Method is recommended for dry regions or for dry seasons.

The draft below illustrates the process:

Pit dimensions - 2-2.5 m long, 1.2-2 m wide and dig 60 cm deep.

Place chopped dry materials that are difficult to rot at the base of one pit. The level should be

10 cm thick.

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Then sprinkle water on it.

- Add 10cm thick layer of fresh materials such as

vegetable waste or fresh weed;

- Sprinkle about 10 handfuls of wood ash;

- Spread 2cm thick of animal manure or old compost on

it;

- Spread 1cm thick topsoil;

- Water the pile well.

- Repeat all the layers except the first layer of coarse

materials until the heap is full to about 20-30cm above

ground level;

- Water the whole heap well;

- Cover the heap with grass, banana or plantain leaves;

- Push a long stick diagonally into the compost heap to help

check temperature;

- Remouve the long stick to verify the temperature.

- If the stick is cold (after 2-3 weeks), turn the layers

upside down in the second area;

- Start to feel again the first area following the same

rules, while the second one is breaking down.

After 4 weeks the compost is ready, when the stick is cold again.

Open Heap Method is the

same except that a pit is not

dug and these following rules

must be respected:

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- First a good quantity of stems (millet or corn) has tobe collected and cut into small pieces;

- All materials must be well mixed and sprinkled before the heap preparation, as shown in the

following drawings:

- First collect stems (millet or corn) and cut them into small pie

c

- The height of the heap should be 1.0–1.5m, the base at least 1.5-2.0m and the length

according to the available space. It is recommended to use a fork making and turning the

heap.

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- The temperature must be kept under control with a long stick as in the Deep bed method

waiting for the heap turning (after 2-3 week);

- It is recommended to test the heap each week to make sure that it is neither too dry nor too

wet;

- After 2-3 weeks, if the stick is cold, the heap should be

turned upside down removing it from one side to the

other;

- A second heap can be done while the second one is

breaking down;

- After 4 weeks the first heap is ready to be stored or to

collect for fields crops;

- All residual fluids can be used as liquid fertiliser.

STORAGE COMPOST

The compost is ready after 2-3 months from the day it was started.

The storage process is described below:

Maintain the compost wet at approximately 35% until required

Store compost in a shady place until required

Compost can also be put in sacks and stored under shade till it is needed for use

How to use compost

Compost can be used for many crops:

� You can put a handful of compost into planting holes for fields’ crops like corn or

vegetables.

� You can mix it into the top 10cm of your soil.

� You can also put it at the base of your plants.

Semi decomposed compost can be used as mulch between crops or around trees. It is

advisable to cover such mulch with straw to avoid loss of nutrient.

1.5 - 2.0 m

3.0 m or more

1.0 - 1.5 m

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� Compost can be mixed with soil for raising tree seedlings

� It can be used as fish feed.

Green manure

In agriculture, a green manure is a type of cover crop grown primarily to add nutrients and

organic matter to the soil. Typically, a green manure crop is grown for a specific period and

then plowed under and incorporated into the soil. Green manures usually perform multiple

functions that include soil improvement and soil protection:

• Leguminous green manures contain nitrogen-fixing symbiotic bacteria in root nodules

that fix atmospheric nitrogen in a form that plants can use;

• Green manures increase the percentage of organic matter (biomass) in the soil, thereby

improving water retention, aeration, and other soil characteristics;

• The root systems of some varieties of green manure grow deep in the soil and bring up

nutrient resources unavailable to shallower-rooted crops;

• Common cover crop functions of weed suppression and prevention of soil erosion and

compaction are often also taken into account when selecting and using green manures;

• Some green manure crops, when allowed to flower, provide forage for pollinating

insects.

As the term suggests, green manure is a type of manure made from plants, such as weeds,

grasses, maize and other leguminous plants which are still green. The plants are incorporated

into the soil at flowering stage. They, then, after 1 or 2 months, decompose through the action

of bacteria and other organisms, and turn into humus. Humus improves the structure of the

soil and provides it with nutrients.

Why organic fertilizers

Apart from supplying nutrients to the soil, organic fertilisers improve soil structure. In this

way, drainage, aeration and water holding capacity are improved. In addition, the nutrients

are released at a steady rate. Organic fertilisers will also modify the soil temperature and its

acidity.

Table 4. Advantages and disadvantages of manure

Advantages of manure Disadvantages of manure

� Organic fertilisers are cheap and easy

to make

� They improve soil structure by

supplying humus to the soil

� They improve soil drainage and

aeration

� They are good source of micro-

nutrients

� They improve the activity of microbes

in the soil

� They are low in nutrients. For example,

Farm Yard Manure (FYM) is low in

Phosphorus

� A lot of manure is required per unit

area

� A lot of labour is required during

application

� It demands a lot of time and

commitment to make

� They release nutrients slowly