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PORTFOLIO
LAURA KLY
PATTERN MAKING
HOW & WHY?
IN THE FOLLOWING PAGES YOU WILL BE LOOKING AT PATTERN MAKER LAURA’S KVIKLYTE PORTFOLIO. SEGMENTS OF PROJECTS ARE DIVIDED INTO INTRO PAGE WITH A COVER PHOTO FOLLOWED BY PROCESS, OUTCOME AND TECHNICAL, DOCUMENTATION DETAILS.
ALL PATTERNS ARE MADE USING GERBER PDS SYSTEM UNLESS INDICATED DIFFERENTLY.
IN CASE OF POSSIBLE QUESTIONS OR COMMENTS PLEASE CONTACT ME AT [email protected]
ENJOY!
Collaborationwith
Diana Dovgialo
ProcessDRC - Diana Rubber Coat
OutcomeReady-for-production patterns (not graded)
Key details: Zipper in the lapel roll lineVoluminous ranglan sleevesRubber fabric (considered seam allowence where not needed)
DRCMeasurement chart created for CMT production
DRC
PRODUCTSTYLE
SEASONSIZE
INITIALS BASIC PATTERN
DATE
Comments:
size not to scale
DRC19-Nov-14
Measurement ChartRubber CoatDRCUNI SEASONMLKLY
The style is constructed to have asymetrical details, applications are provided by the designer and is to be placed according to sketch. Product is to be measured when laying on the table.
XS S M L XLToll/ cm +/-
19.4 19.7 20 20.3 20.6 0.354 57 60 63 66 0.5
48.5 54.5 60.5 63.5 66.5 165.8 66.4 67 67.6 68.2 0.545.5 46.25 47 47.75 48.5 0.590.1 90.55 91 91.45 91.9 0.318.2 19.1 20 20.9 21.8 0.214.5 15 15.5 16 16.5 0.2
NOTE: The sizes in this section below refer to the garments and not the models. Product is to be measured when laying on the table.
Measurements (in cm)
A. 1/2 Neck widthB. 1/2 Chest width (measure at 30cm down from nape)C. 1/2 Hem widthD. Nape to hemE. Back width (measure at 25cm down from center back)F. Sleeve length (measure from nape, down th seam with cuff)G. 1/2 Sleeve width at biceps (measure right sleeve) 5cm down the seamH. 1/2 Sleeve hem (at cuff junction)
Glitch detail at front is an application by hand, provided by designer. Therefore on the sketch there are no topstitching, although there is on the garment. Until production stage, some other glueing techniques could be exprimented on.
A
C
B E
F
G
H
D
DRCPRODUCT Diana Rubber Coat
STYLE DRCSEASON UNI SEASON
SIZE 50INITIALS LKLY
BASIC PATTERN DRCDATE 20-Oct-14
Comments: Melting lapel, zipper in the lapel construction line, cuffs are knitted (made to measure)
size not to scale
Style Sketch
Zipper in the lapel construction line
Double breasted construction, so the lapel would drop heavier
The black glitch-like detail is stitched on top
Cargo pocket is hanging from a layer coming out under the turned back lapel
Sketch drwn by Diana Dovgialo
- FRAGMENT FROM BA THESIS REPORT, NOVEMBER 2014
THE HIGH-END STREET WEAR MENSWEAR COLLECTION UGLY BOY IS AIMING AT YOUNG MALES IN THEIR 20s AND 30s. iT IS DIRECTED AT A TARGET GROUP OF SCHOOL DROP OUTS BRINGING IN AN INTELLI-GENT REBELLION AGAINST...EVERYTHING.A CONSCIOUSMISFIT, HARMLESS SKINHEADS. THEY ARE AGGRESSIVE AND DELICATE AT THE SME TIME, PASSIVE AND ACTIVE, MATURE AND CHILD-LIKE. LIKE TWO SIDES OF ONE COIN AT THE SAME TIME. THEY ASK UNANSWER-ABLE QUESTIONS. THEY ARE UNLIKELIEST EXPLORERS. THEIR ABILITY TO PRESENT THEIR DIVERSE MIND IS REFLECTED GREATLY UPON THEIR CLOTHING, SHOWING OFF, MAKING A STATEMENT. AFTER ALL, THAT’S WHAT ONES AFTER GOING THROUGH THE HELL AND BACK.
ProcessDMW+DMP Diana Mask Windbreaker and Pants
OutcomeReady-for-production patterns (graded in alpha numeric XS - XL sizes)
Key details: Illusion of a face is created by seam manipulation and details using contrast fabrcis on the upper body.Trousers has no centre back seamDouble waist bands holds pants at high waist (with elastic band inside)
Full CMT documentation + zoomed in grading with measurement chart
This product was graded Full documentation created for CMT production
DMW
PRODUCTSTYLE
SEASONSIZE
INITIALS BASIC PATTERN
DATE
Comments:
size not to scale
The style is constructed to with asymetrical details. There could be some unpredicted measurement distubance after sewing.
DWM219-Nov-14
Measurement ChartDiana Mask WindbreakerDMWUNI SEASONMLKLY
Measurements (in cm) XS S M L XLToll/ cm
+/- A. 1/2 Collar width 12.2 12.9 13.2 13.6 14.3 0.2B. 1/2 Neck width 20.5 20.9 21.3 21.7 22.1 0.2C. 1/2 Chest (30 cm down from nape) 52.5 55.5 58.5 61.5 64.5 0.3D. 1/2 Hem (at RIB) 35.0 38.0 41.0 44.0 47.0 0.3E. Shoudler to shoulder (back) 65.7 66.6 67.5 68.4 69.3 0.5F. Back width (measure at 25cm down from center back) 58.2 59.1 60.0 60.9 61.8 0.5G. Center back seam length 53.9 54.5 55.0 55.5 56.1 0.3H. Sleeve length (measure the right sleeve) Measure with RIB 68.5 68.5 68.5 68.5 68.5 0.5I. 1/2 Armhole width (measure the right sleeve) Straight from shoulder point to armhole/side seam
22.0 22.7 23.5 24.4 25.4 0.2
J. 1/2 Sleeve hem ( at RIB) 11.6 12.3 13.0 13.7 14.4 0.2
NOTE: The sizes in this section below refer to the garments and not the models. Product is to be measured when laying on the table.
A
E
H
J
G
F
B
C
D
Waist is not measured due to hemline being not far from it and also elastic.
DM
W
DMW
PRODUCT Diana Mask WindbreakerSTYLE DMW
SEASON UNI SEASONSIZE M
INITIALS LKLYBASIC PATTERN DWM2
DATE 19-Nov-14
Pattern grading overview
DMW
Full CMT documentation + zoomed in grading with measurement chart
DMP
PRODUCTSTYLE
SEASONSIZE
INITIALS BASIC PATTERN
DATE
Comments:
size not to scale
LKLYDMP19-Nov-14
Measurement ChartM.A.S.K. PantsDMPUNI SEASONM
Measurements (in cm) XS S M L XL Toll +/- cm
A. 1/2 Waist (measure at upper waistband edge) 36 39 42 45 48 1B. 1/2 Waistband width 38 41 44 47 50 1C. 1/2 Hip (measure 15cm down center front 51 54 57 60 63 1D. 1/2 Knee width (40cm up from hem exl. RIB) 29.2 30.1 31 31.9 32.8 0.5E. 1/2 Hem width at RIB 12.8 13.4 14 14.6 15.2 0.5F. Inseam (measure together with RIB) 66.5 66.7 67 67.3 67.5 0.3G. Outer length(measure together with RIB) 101.8 102.4 103 103.6 104.2 0.5
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
Waist measurement at pants is smaller than the body measurment of the model due to elastic band.
NOTE: The sizes in this section below refer to the garments and not the models. Product is to be measured when laying on the table.
DMP
This product was graded Full documentation created for CMT production
DM
P
DMP
PRODUCT M.A.S.K. PantsSTYLE DMP
SEASON UNI SEASONINITIALS LKLY
BASIC PATTERN DMPDATE 19-Nov-14
Pattern grading overview
Collaborationwith
Arina Maslova
ProcessATOP + ATR - Arina Top and Trousers
Fitting 1
OutcomeReady-for-production patterns (graded)
Key details: Asymetrical cut trousers. It has a loose �t, features “banana” shape at the hemTwo legs has asymetrical construction - one side has a pleat which creates more width, so the other leg was edited to �t the width of the pleated side. Double waistbands are constructed in a way to �t the waist and still be able to unzip and fold down. Straight waistband created jeans looseness,while the top, shaped waistband is hugging the body or can be unzipped.Top is featuring low drop shoulder jumper construction which has top layer of a tank top. Sheer material was selected to emphasise the mood of the collection.
ATOPMeasurement chart created for CMT production + grading overview (sizes UK 4 - UK 16)
A-TOP
PRODUCTSTYLE
SEASONSIZE
INITIALS BASIC PATTERN
DATE
Comments:
size not to scale
Neck width measurement is meant to be disrupted, due to wanting to wear it with the shoulder down the arm.
A-TOP3P19-Nov-14
Measurement ChartARINA SWEATER TOPA-TOPS/S 16UK6LKLY
Measurement UK4 UK6 UK8 UK10 UK12 UK14 UK16Toll +/-
cmA. 1/2 Neck width (body layer) 39.6 40.0 40.5 41.0 41.6 42.3 42.9 0.7B. 1/2 Neck width (top layer) 39.6 40.0 40.5 41.0 41.6 42.3 42.9 0.7C. 1/2 Bust width (measure at 25cm below center front) on the body layer
48.5 50.0 52.0 54.0 56.5 59.0 61.50.7
D. 1/2 Hem width 48.5 50.0 52.0 54.0 56.5 59.0 61.5 0.7E. Shoulder seam 24.2 24.5 24.9 25.3 25.9 26.4 27.0F. 1/2 Sleeve armhole width 25.8 26.0 26.4 26.7 27.2 27.6 28.1 0.5G. Sleeve length (from top cap point to hem) 43.9 44.0 44.2 44.3 44.6 44.8 45.0 0.5H. Sleeve hem width 11.8 12.0 12.3 12.6 13.0 13.3 13.7 0.5
NOTE: The sizes in this section below refer to the garments and not the models. Product is to be measured when laying on the table.
Front
Back
A
B
CF
H
D
EG
ATRMeasurement chart created for CMT production + grading overview (sizes UK 4 - UK 16)
A-TR175
PRODUCTSTYLE
SEASONSIZE
INITIALS BASIC PATTERN
DATE
Comments:
size not to scale
LKLYA-TR17519-Nov-14
Measurement ChartARINA TROUSERS A-TR175S/S 16UK6
Notes: D. knee width measurement are not exactly the same on both legs due to pleat detail. Also, it is easer to measure it from waist, than from bananna legs hem. Measurement C and G is to be measured at the front right leg due to pleat detail and cut out at the side on the fron left.
NOTE: The sizes in this section below refer to the garments and not the models. Product is to be measured when laying on the table.
Measurement UK4 UK6 UK8 UK10 UK12 UK14 UK16Toll +/-
cmA. 1/2 Waist (measured straight from side points) 36.5 38.0 40.0 42.0 44.5 47.0 49.5 0.5B. 1/2 Hip (measure 15cm down from the zipper start point) 44.5 46.0 48.0 50.0 52.5 55.0 57.5 0.5C. 1/2 Thigh width (measure at crutch seam as shown) 31.2 32.0 33.2 34.3 35.7 37.2 38.6 0.5D. 1/2 Knee width (measure at 56cm below zipper start point) 23.1 24.0 25.2 26.4 27.9 29.4 30.9 0.2E. 1/2 Ankle width 15.4 16.0 16.8 17.6 18.6 19.6 20.6 0.3F. Front rise length (measure along the seam, excluding waistband) 26.8 27.0 27.3 27.6 28.0 28.4 28.7 0.3G. Outseam length measured excluding waistbands) 111.3 111.5 111.8 112.1 112.5 112.8 113.2 0.3H. Inside leg (measure along the seam) 81.3 81.0 80.6 80.2 79.7 79.2 78.7 0.3I. Back rise length (measure along the seam) 33.0 33.5 34.1 34.7 35.5 36.3 37.1 0.3
A
B
F
C
G
I
D
H
E
ProcessALC - Arina Leather Coat
Sketch
Key details:Asymetrical leather jacket with removable bottom layers (in total 96 pattern pieces)Low cap sleeves on drastically dropped shouldersBottom layers are attached with 2 zippers to the waistband of the jacket which are levelled in a way so to not intersect Vertical inseam pockets are at both front sides of the jacket
OutcomeReady-for-production patterns (not graded)
FRONT BACK
SLEEVES FACING + LINING
A-LC
PRODUCTSTYLE
SEASONSIZE
INITIALS BASIC PATTERN
DATE
Comments:
size not to scale
A-LC3P19-Nov-14
Measurement ChartARINA LEATHER COATA-LCS/S 16UK8LKLY
Measurement UK4 UK6 UK8 UK10 UK12 UK14 UK16Toll +/-
cmA. 1/2 Neck width 9.6 10.0 10.5 11.0 11.6 12.3 12.9 0.4B. 1/2 Bust width (measure at 32cm from nape) 59.5 61.0 63.0 65.0 67.5 70.0 72.5 0.5C. 1/2 Waist width (measure at 46cm from nape) 57.7 59.2 61.2 63.2 65.7 68.2 70.7 0.5D. 1/2 Hip widht (measure where waistband starts) 55.5 57.0 59.0 61.0 63.5 66.0 68.5 0.5E. 1/2 Hem width 55.5 57.0 59.0 61.0 63.5 66.0 68.5 0.5F. Nape to jacket hem length (incl. waistband) 71.2 71.6 72.0 72.5 73.1 73.7 74.3 0.7G Jacket hem to bottom layer hem (excl. waistband) 58.3 58.0 57.5 57.1 56.5 55.9 55.3 0.5H. Shoulder to shoudler 61.2 62.2 63.5 64.8 66.5 68.2 69.9 0.4I. 1/2 Upper arm (measure at 4cm from armhole seam) 20.9 21.4 22.0 22.7 23.4 24.2 24.9 0.3J. Sleeve length 53.15 53.3 53.5 53.7 53.95 54.2 54.45 0.3K. 1/2 Wrist width 10.65 10.8 11 11.2 11.45 11.7 11.95 0.2
NOTE: The sizes in this section below refer to the garments and not the models. Product is to be measured when laying on the table.
A
B
C
D
E
G
H
I
J
K
F
ALCMeasurement chart created for CMT production (not graded)
A-LC
PRODUCT ARINA LEATHER COATSTYLE A-LC
SEASON S/S 16SIZE UK6
INITIALS LKLYBASIC PATTERN A-LC3P
DATE 19-Nov-14
Comments: Loose leather jacket with removable bottom layers. size not to scale
Style Sketch
Sketch drawn by Laura Kviklyte
with
Anna Schuller
Collaboration
ProcessANT+ ANTR - Anna Top and Trousers
Key details: Asymetrical cutOne shoulder has more lenght and fullnessDrapped look performed by Gerber PDS
OutcomeReady-for-production patterns (not graded)
Key details: Slim �tSlightly lowered crutch, with low waistband. One layer of it is quilted with adhesive volume fusing in the construction.Trousers has invisible zips at the back of the hem
OutcomeReady-for-production patterns (not graded)
ANT+ANTRMeasurement chart created for CMT production
ANT
PRODUCTSTYLE
SEASONSIZE
INITIALS BASIC PATTERN
DATE
Comments:
size not to scale
Neck width measurement is meant to be disrupted, due to wanting to wear it with the shoulder down the arm.
ANT5P19-Nov-14
Measurement ChartANNA TOPANTS/S 1636LKLY
Measurement 34 36 38 40 42 44 46Toll +/-
cmA. 1/2 Neck width (body layer) 23.35 23.50 23.65 23.80 23.95 24.10 24.25 0.7B. 1/2 Bust width (measure at 25cm from nape) on the body layer 45.00 47.00 49.00 51.00 53.00 55.00 57.00
0.7C. 1/2 Waist 43.00 45.00 47.00 49.00 51.00 53.00 55.00 0.5D. 1/2 Hem width 50.00 52.00 54.00 56.00 58.00 60.00 62.00 0.7E. Shoulder seam 7.80 8.00 8.20 8.40 8.60 8.80 9.00 0.5F. 1/2 Sleeve armhole width 27.30 27.50 27.70 27.90 28.10 28.30 28.50 0.5
NOTE: The sizes in this section below refer to the garments and not the models. Product is to be measured when laying on the table.
A E E
F
B
C
D
Sketch drawn by Anna Schuller
ANTR
PRODUCTSTYLE
SEASONSIZE
INITIALS BASIC PATTERN
DATE
Comments:
size not to scale
Measurement ChartANNA TROUSERS ANTRS/S 1636LKLYA-TR17519-Nov-14
NOTE: The sizes in this section below refer to the garments and not the models. Product is to be measured when laying on the table.
Measurement 34 36 38 40 42 44 46Toll +/-
cmA. 1/2 Waist (measure at waistband edge) 40.5 42.5 44.5 46.5 48.5 50.5 52.5 0.5B. 1/2 Hip (measure 15cm down from waistband excluding WB) 47.0 49.0 51.0 53.0 55.0 57.0 59.0 0.5C. 1/2 Thigh width (measure at 6 cm below the crutch) 26.5 27.0 27.5 28.0 28.5 29.0 29.5 0.2D. 1/2 Knee width (measure up at 53.5cm from the hem) 19.1 19.5 19.9 20.3 20.7 21.1 21.5 0.2E. 1/2 Ankle width 14.1 14.5 14.9 15.3 15.7 16.1 16.5 0.2F. Front rise length (measure along the seam, excluding waistband) 18.8 19.0 19.2 19.4 19.6 19.8 20.0 0.3G. Outseam length measured excluding waistbands) 96.8 97.0 97.2 97.4 97.6 97.8 98.0 0.5H. Inside leg (measure along the seam) 83.2 83.0 82.8 82.6 82.4 82.2 82.0 0.3I. Back rise length (measure along the seam) 27.3 27.5 27.7 27.9 28.1 28.3 28.5 0.3
A
BF
C
D G
I
H
ESketch drawn by Anna Schuller
Crutch is dropped slighly, cross pockets at sides and piping pockets at the back
Collection Merge is based on the Japanese values of Wabi Sabi and Zen. She can re�ect her own values in Merge’s values. She is inspired by the craftsmanship, quality and sophistication that Merge designs represents.
ProcessANC - Anna Coat
Key details:Kimono construction with trench coat detailsGathered yoke detail at the back + build up collar which at the neck back is stading on its own>>Tailored look inside: facing is having a shape borrowed from menswearThe whole body is fused due to light material
OutcomeReady-for-production patterns (not graded)
Insides: lining anf facings
ANCMeasurement chart created for CMT production (not graded)
ANC
PRODUCT ANNA COATSTYLE ANC
SEASON S/S 16SIZE 36
INITIALS LKLYBASIC PATTERN ANC4
DATE 19-Nov-14
Comments:
Kimono cut, back yoke is controlled by a string. Upper pockets at front is connected to a cut out detai.
size not to scale
Style Sketch
Sketch drawn by Anna Schuller
A
B
G
H
I
J
C
D
E
F
ANC
PRODUCTSTYLE
SEASONSIZE
INITIALS BASIC PATTERN
DATE
Comments:
size not to scale
The product is to be measured with the zipper closure closed.
ANC419-Nov-14
LKLY
Measurement ChartANNA COATANCS/S 1636
Measurement 34 36 38 40 42 44Toll +/-
cmA. 1/2 Neck width 17.85 18.00 18.15 18.30 18.45 18.60 0.2B. 1/2 Bust width (measure at 24cm below nape point until sleeve seams)
47.00 49.00 51.00 53.00 55.00 57.000.5
C. 1/2 Waist width (measure at 42cm below nape point) 54.00 56.00 58.00 60.00 62.00 64.00 0.5D. 1/2 Hip widht (measure at 65cm below nape point) 52.00 54.00 56.00 58.00 60.00 62.00 0.5E. 1/2 Hem width 50.00 52.00 54.00 56.00 58.00 60.00 0.5F. Nape to hem length in a straight line 104.80 105.00 105.20 105.40 105.60 105.80 0.5G. 1/2 Upper arm (measure from armhole point straight to point where front yoke ends.
19.40 20.00 20.60 21.20 21.80 22.400.2
H. Shoulder to shoudler (find shoulder point 19cm from neck) 51.80 53.00 54.20 55.40 56.60 57.80 0.4I. Sleeve length 59.30 59.50 59.70 59.90 60.10 60.30 0.4J. 1/2 Wrist width 12.80 13.00 13.20 13.40 13.60 13.80 0.2
NOTE: The sizes in this section below refer to the garments and not the models. Product is to be measured when laying on the table.
Sketch drawn by Anna Schuller
MenswearProject
Suit + Casual Outfit
ProcessSuit - shirt, trousers and a blazer
Skinny look suit was developed in 3 �ttings. The last one was sewn fully fused + canvas with volume fusing at chest area
OutcomeReady-for-production patterns ( graded in menswear TEKO EURO sizes 44-58 )
Key details: Classical suit reworked into more relaxed, youthful lookNarrow notch collarVents in between side and backReal closure at sleeveFelt collar
OutcomeReady-for-production patterns ( graded in menswear TEKO EURO sizes 44-58 )
Fusing Shell fabric Facing+Lining
OutcomeBlazer Ready-for-production patterns ( graded in menswear TEKO EURO sizes 44-58 )
OutcomeShirt and trousers Ready-for-production patterns ( graded in menswear TEKO EURO sizes 44-58 )
OutcomeShirt and trousers Ready-for-production patterns ( graded in menswear TEKO EURO sizes 44-58 )
OutcomeShirt and trousers Ready-for-production patterns ( graded in menswear TEKO EURO sizes 44-58 )
Key details:Shirt has ranglan sleeve construction; classical wear transformed into fresh, youthful look.Yoke has asymetrical shape
ProcessCasual out�t - bomber jacket and jeans
For this out�t it was enough of one �tting. Slash alteration method was applied in the back for more width for the musculous back
OutcomeBomber jacket and jeans Ready-for-production patterns ( graded in menswear TEKO EURO sizes 44-58 )
OutcomeBomber jacket and jeans Ready-for-production patterns ( graded in menswear TEKO EURO sizes 44-58 )
SHOW PIECEProject
MUGLER
The purpose of the project was to create something that is shown on houte couture runway. Something creative, complicated and challenging
ProcessShowpiece - corsage, trousers and tailored jacket
1st sample
Key details: Corsage is meant to be immitating metalJacket is absolutely asymetrical, tailored on a manequinwhilst not �tting the model perfectly. Has a drapped design feature on a shoulderTrousers has no waistband, the side seam is moved 6cm forward for design purposes
OutcomeCorsage + Trousers + Jacket
OutcomeCorsage + Trousers + Jacket patterns overview
Block patterns for the jacket Corsage patterns
Trousers
Due to jacket’s patterns being quite hard to understand without the block draft, it is the block patterns that represents the pattern overview of the construction.Trousers are cut in bias in order to provide a beautiful drapped �are.
Collaborationwith
Graduating BA-fashion design student, 2013
Lasma Antonova
Collaboration with Lasma A. - Coat
Key details:Waisted coat with detachable fur panelsCustomed collar is drapped around the coat and is partly attached to the armhome seam
Outcome
Collaboration with Lasma A. - Trousers
Key details: Highwaisted trousers tightly �tting on a modelFront exposed zipper closureTrousers has skirt construction top layer
Outcome
Key details:Dress has dart implemented into the princess seam construction, side panelCombination of two di�erent materials: chi�on and leather (leather seam allowence was glued with special glue)
OutcomeCollaboration with Lasma A. - leather dress
ProcessCollaboration with Lasma A.
On this piece I only provided guidance on construction and sewing & �nishing.
Key details: �at frontcross-like upper body construction - darts and playing with fullness