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7/31/2019 Lesvos 2009/09/17 - Lesvos Birding
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Lesvos | 17 24 September 2009
A Speyside Wildlife Holiday
led by Lesvos Birdings Steve Dudley | www.lesvosbirding.com
Day 1, Thursday, 17 September
WemeetupatGatwickearlyinthemorningandaftertheusualairportprocedures,wearejettingoffLesvos!
WearriveanhourlateatMytilinibutaresoononourwayandsomeofusgetting
ourfirstviewsofLesvosandimmediatelyseejusthowcloseTurkeyis!
OnroutetothehotelwecutbytheKalloniSaltpanswhicharecoveredin
Flamingoswhichlookstunninginthebrightsunlight.WesooncheckintothehotelandwalkintoSkalaKallonisandhaveadelightful
latelightlunchtotideusovertotheevening.WalkingbacktothehotelweseeaRedbackedShrikeand11Beeeatersprpoverhead.
WecollectourthingsandheadofftoMetochiLake.WespyacouplemoreRedbackedShrikesalongthefieldedges,andaWhinchat,beforearrivingatthelake
itself.Anditsfulltothebrim,nottheusualautumnpuddleSteveexpectedto
find.StripedneckedTerrapinsslideoffthebanksintothewaterbeforeresurfacingwithjusttheirsnoutsstickingoutofthewater.SeveralSpotted
FlycatchersmakesortiesfromvarioustreesandreedswhenDavidspotsabirdflittingaroundthebottomofsometamarisksonasmallislandjustinfrontofus.
ItsaCettisWarblerandwegetgreatviewasithopsaroundontheground
beforeflyingoff.AEuropeanPondTerrapinishauleduponalogonthefarshore.ThereareseveralMoorhensinthetamarisksonthefarside,andacouple
ofLittleGrebesstickclosetothefaredgecover.JuneandStevespotaLittleBitternasitlandsinthetamarisksbutcompletelydisappears.Wecheckthefar
endofthelateandfindmoreterrapins,someMarshFrogsandamaleLesser
Emperordragonflyhawkingalongthestagnantchannel.DaphnethanspotsaSnipewhichcrouchesdowntoavoiddetectionbythemaraudingdogwhichis
followingus!
Agentlestarttotheholidayendswithdinnerbackinthevillageandagraceful
retreattoourbeds.Itsbeenalongdayandtheholidaywillbegininearnestinthemorning!
Day 2, Friday, 18 September
Wewaketoabright,cloudlessskyandmeetupfora0730breakfast.Itsalready
warmingupquick,andafterbreakfastwearekeentomakeourwayovertotheTsikniasRiverMouthandgetstuckintosomebirds.Wepullupandaregreeted
byalreadyfamiliarcallofCrestedLarks.ApartyofLinnetsflyoveraswebegintoscantherivermouth.YellowleggedGullsoccupythebestroostingspots
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whilstaGreyHeronpreenssatonasubmergedbranchandaCormorantperches
onapost.StevespotsaCurlewonthemudspit.WebegintoheadupriverwhenafieldfullofLinnetsandGoldfinchesstopsus.Wegrillthefieldbutcanfind
nothingelse.AswedriveslowlyalongtheriveraBlackStorkfliespastandlandsbrieflyinfrontofus.
WetakeaquicklookaroundthefordwherethereareseveralLittleRingedPlovers,WhiteandYellowWagtails,HouseSparrowsandCornBuntingsaround
thepuddlesintheriverbed.Weparktheminibusandwalkouttowardstheriver
mouth.AjuvenileRedbackedShrikepopsuponthefenceaheadofusandthereareNorthernWheatearsonthetrackandintheadjacentfields.TheLesserGrey
Shrikefromearlierisseenagain,thistimemuchclosergivingbetterview.AnIsabellineWheatearisseenbrieflyonthetrackandswallowsandmartinsbuzz
overheadastheyeagerlypushsouthwards.
Wedropofftheriverbankintoanopenareawithscatteredtamerisks.Northern
WheatearsandCrestedLarksareeverywhere.StevepicksupthreeHoopoes
feedingatthebackofthesheepfieldandwegetreasonableviewsthroughthescopes.JustaroundthecornerwehavebriefviewsofayoungmaleLesser
Kestrelbeforetheskyaboveusfillswithhirundinesandthefirstofabout80AlpineSwifts,includingsomeincrediblylowbirdslowenoughtoseethewhite
throat!
Wemoveontotheeasternsideofthesaltpans.OverthehillbehindusDaphne
spiestowbirdscirclingwhichturnouttobeaRavenbeingmobbedbyaSparrowhawk.AcrossthepansthereisadenseflockoffeedingAvocetsand
groupofCommonShelduck.Theflamingosaredistantfromhere,buttheirstrikingpinkisstillvisibleevenatadistance.
WewanderdownthetrackandfindmoreCrestedLarks,CornBuntings,aRed
backedShrikeandaWhinchat.ViewingthepansagainwecannowseeatleastthreeGreenshank,fourCurlewandbothLittleandGreatWhiteEgrets.
It/sgettingwarmnowsomoveoffintotheshadeofAchladeriForest.Nosooner
areweinthetreeswhenStevespotsourfirstKrpersNuthatch.Thereare
plentyofbirdsflittingaroundandmaybeuptofournuthatchesfeedinglowdownontreetrunks,flittingfromtrunktotrunktreecreeperstyle.Woodlark
putsinabriefappearance,asdoesaShorttoedTreecreeperandaCirlBuntingsingsitsrattlesongfromthepinetops.
WehavelunchattheseasideAncientPyrrataverna.Itslovelyhereintheshadewiththecoolbreezecomingoffthesea.Solovelyinfactemakesurewehavea
nice,slowlunchbeforeheadingbackintotheheatoftheday!
Wemakebackintotheforest,thistimewalkingslowlyalongaforesttrack.Its
deathlyquiet.RockandWoodlandGraylingsflitaroundus,buttheplaceislargelybirdfree.WespendsometimeenjoyingapowderblueSmallSkimmer
restingonthetrackbeforeheadingbacktoheminibuswhenStevespotsacoupleofKrpersNuthatchesinthetreerightaboveus.Wegetwonderfulviews
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ofthisdiminutivenuthatch,themaleisparticularlyshowymakingupforthe
poorviewsearlier.Arrivingbackattheminibustwobirdsappearinthecloudlessblueskyabovethetreecoveredhillsidetoourleft.ARavenisbeing
mobbedbyanotherbirdEleonorasFalconexclaimsStevepointingoutthesalientfeatures.Butthesightingistoobriefasthefalcondisappearsoverthe
ridgeofthehill.WemoveonaroundthecornertotheVouvarisRiverMouth.AcoupleofGrey
HeronsaredisturbedfromthepinesbythebridgeandacoupleofKingfishers
chaseeachotherbeforeafemaleSparrowhawkfliesover.AttherivermouththereareseveralCormorantsanduptofourGreyHerons.,butlittleelse.
WemakeourwayaroundtoKalloniSaltpans.Alltheflamingosareinthe
northwestcornerandthelateafternoonlightisfabulouslightingupthewhole
scene.Aquickcountestimatesthereareover800flamingos!Thereisconstantchangingwithintheflamingos.Somearefeedingwiththeirupsidedownhead
busyinthewater.Otherswalkaroundserenely.Occasionallyoneflashesits
underwingsshowingitsvividredarmpits.FourBlackStorksflaplazilybehindtheflamingosbeforealightingonadistancepan.DaphnespiesdistantShorttoed
EaglebeforeStevepointsanotherfalconcomingoverthepanswhichturnsouttobeoursecondEleonorasoftheafternoon!
Itsbeenahotyetthoroughlyrewardingdayasweheadoffbackacrossthefields,fundingoursecondLesserGreyShrikeoftheday,onourwaybacktothehotel.
Afterarestandfreshenupwewalkintothevillageforanotherenjoyableevening.
Lesser Grey Shrike, nr Kalloni Saltpans
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Day 3, Friday, 19 September
Wewaketothenowfamiliarsoundsofsheepbells,cockerelsandbrayingdonkeys!Afterbreakfastweheadoutintoanovercastmorningwhichisbliss,
andheadtowardsMetochilake.WestoptoviewacoupleofWhinchatsonthefencewhenStevespotsatwoTurtleDovesalightonanoverheadwire.Thescope
issoontrainedonthemandwegetexcellentviewsbeforetheyflyofffollowedbythreemore.AhugeflockofGoldfinchesswarmthedeadthistlesinadryfieldandasingleRedbackedShrikeissatinanearbytree.
AtthelakeweseetheusualLittleGrebeandMoorhensandtheCommonSnipefromThursdayisstillhappilyprobingthemudfringe.Wewalkalongthetrack
throughthefieldsandsoonfindacoupleofJaysandgetexcellentviewsoftheirblackcapswhichmarkthemasadifferentracetotheJaysbackhome.Wecan
hereMiddleSpottedWoodpeckersmockingusfromwithintheolivegroves
whichholdonlysparrowsandtheoccasionalWillowWarblerforustoactuallysee.
Wetakeaturnwhichtakesusalongthebottomofarockyhillside.StevepointsouttheconstantcallingofRockNuthatches.Westopintheshadeofatreeto
scantherocks.ThenuthatchescallsarejoinedbythedryrattlesongofaCirlBuntingwecantseeeitheroftheseeither!WedofindourfirstAgamalizard
sittingtypicallyatoparockwhenSteveeventuallyspotsaRockNuthatchonthe
toppermostrockaboveus.AlthoughnotclosethelightisbehindusandperfectforviewingtheRockyNutandwecanseeclearlyhisbanditmaskandbuffy
flanks.Itbouncesroundtherocksalittlewithasecondbirdbeforedisappearing.WemoveononlyafewyardsbeforefindingaCommonWhitethroatandaclose
RedbackedShrikewhichhascaughtagrasshopper.Theshrikesitsstillinalittlebushbeforeeventuallystartingtotearatthegrasshopper.Weviewfromtheshadeofasweetsmellingfigtreebeforeagaintakingtotheopenandthe
increasinglyfiercesun.Wepassthroughanopenareawithfewbirdsandturn
alonganothertrackbyanewallotmentbuilding,itsfreshpaintgleaminginthestrongsunlight.AtthelittlebridgeweseeasecondCommonWhitethroatand
anotherRedbackedShrikebeforefollowingthetrackdownthebackofthelake.TwoLesserWhitethroatsappearandthendisappearassuddenlyastheyhad
appearedandourwalkisaccompaniedwithbytheconstantploppingof
terrapinsdroppingintothechannelunseen.Arrivingbackbythesouthernendofthelake,Daphnespotsaraptorinthesky.Stevegetsontothehigherbirdand
proclaimsitasamaleMontagusHarrierwhilsttheotherisaCommonBuzzard.APurpleHeronthenfliespasttoofastforallourlikings!Alasthegroupmiss
theGreenSandpiperSteveflushesfromtheendofthelake.
WemoveoffnorthtotheKalloniRaptorWatchPoint.Theovercastmorninghas
givenwaytotheexpectedclearblueskiesandincreasinglyhotsun.Thewatch
pointisatblessedwithacoveredpicnictableforsometoenjoytheshade.DavidandStevestickitoutinthesunandinbetweenRockNuthatchappearances
distantRedfootedandEleonorasFalconsareseen.
WearriveatMolivosandheaduptothecastletoenjoytheviewsovertoTurkeyandwestacrossthebaytoIpsilouandthewesternendoftheisland.Wemoveon
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downtotheharbourwhereweenjoyalovelyrelaxinglunchbytheharbourside,
withsomeofeventryingafewnewGreekseafoodspecialtiesforthefirst(andlast!)time.
AfteranequallyrelaxingcoffeeweheadofftoPerasma.Thereservoirholds16
LittleGrebesaswellsasmanydrinkingcrowsandlotsofbathingYellowleggedGulls.AWhiteWagtailfliesaroundnoisily.OurwalkfindsonlysparrowsbeforeDaphnespotsanotherraptor.Stevegetshisscopeontoitanditsnowone,but
twomaleMarshHarriersthatquicklyheadoffsouthintightcircles.Withno
otherbirdsobviousandonlyafewRedveinedDarterstooccupy,wereturntotheminibusandheadoffeastfollowingtheroadbelowMountLepetimnos.The
viewsarestunningaswedrivebelowthehighestmontainontheislandwitheachtwistandturnofthewindingroadgivingusbreathtakingviewafter
breathtakingview.Turkeytoourleftremainseverpresentandahopethatthere
areraptorswingingtherewayacrossthenarrowstraighttowardsus.
Short-toed Eagle, nr Lepetimnos
JustbeforeLepetimnosvillagewepullovertoenjoytheviewacrossthenorthoftheislandandacrosstoTurkey,whichisjustastonesthrowaway.Daphneasks
ifthisisjustagullhoveringnearby.GullsdonthoverthoughtSteveand
swingingroundseesaShorttoedEagleonlyacoupleofhundredyardsawayandalmostatoureyelevel,windhoveringintheincreasingnortherlybreeze.We
watchintentlyforseveralminutesasthebirdhangsintheskywithoutflappingasinglewingbeat!Itturns,glidesandresumesitshover.Afterashorttimeit
drops,hoversagain,thendropsfurtherandoutofsightclearlyafterprey.Wow!
Whatashow.Weheadonalongtheroadandafteracoupleofbendswecomeacrosstheeagleagainaboveus.Wemanagetofindasafeplacetopulloverand
werebackoutthebusandwatchinganequallyabsorbingspectacle,butthis
timefrombelowandabletoenjoyallthebirdsundersidemarkings.WerestillwatchingtheeaglewhenStevespotsasmallerraptorcominginfromtheright.
Goshawk!heshoutsandweallgetgoodviewsasitwheelspastusandoutofsight.AnotherWow!
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ItsgettinglateaswepullintotheNapivalleyandtheresonlytimeforacouple
ofshortstops.ThefirstisatthenorthendandaswegetoutofthebusStevespotsasmalleaglecomingstraightatus.BootedEagle!heexclaimsasitbanks
rightandflapsofrapidlysouthdownthevalley.Damn!Thatwasfartoobriefaview!SeveralCirlBuntingsaresingingbutcanwefindoneno!Frustratedwe
headoffsouthandarestoppedinourtracksjustnorthofNapivillagewhenaBlueRockThrushfliesacrosstheroadinfrontofus.Wequicklyturnofftheroadandaresoonwatchingamalesatatoparockoccasionallysinging.Times
pressingsoweboardthebusasStevespotsaSombreTitbutbythetimethe
othersareoutitsgonebutbothDaphneandStevegetbriefviewsofaBlackearedWheatearbeforewehavetoheadmoveoff.
Wearrivebackatthehoteltofreshenupbeforedinner.Thediningroomhas
beentransformedforaweddingparty.Afterdinnerwearrivebacktofindthe
guestsjustbeginningtoarrivefora10pmstart.Itsgoingtobealong,noisynightinthehotel!
Day 4, Sunday, 20 September
Wewakeandbreakfasttothesoundofthelocalchurchbellscallingthelocalstoprayer.ThismorningweheadsouthlongtheeasternsideoftheGulfofKalloni
takingthebeachtrackfromAchladeritoSkalaVasilikon.Therearefewbirds
otherthanCrestedLarksinthefieldsandalongtrack.ArrivingatthesmallharbourofSkalaVasilikonwefindfourMediterraneanGullsontheharbourwall
twoadultsandtwofirstwinterbirds.ContinuingsouthtoSkamnioudiwecomeacrossseveralfieldsthathavejustbeencutandareteemingwithbirds.Thefirst
isextraordinaryasitscrawlingwithWillowWarblers,ChiffchaffsandGreatTitsallfeedingonthegroundalongthecutrowsintheopenfield!ThesecondfieldismoretypicalbeingfullofYellowWagtailsbobbingbetweentherowsofcut
crop.ContinuingonwegetexcellentviewsofanadultWoodchatShrikefeeding
bytheroadsideformwiresandadeadtree.
Mediterranean Gulls, Skala Vasilikon
WearriveatthePolichnitosSaltpansandareimmediatelyintothebirds.The
windispickingupconsiderablyandhamperingviewing,especiallywiththescope,butthereisplentytolookat.KentishandRingedPloversfeedinthedrier
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pansalongtheroadsidewhilstRedshank,Greenshank,Ruff,Avocet,Ruff,Little
StintandDunlinareallwadingaroundthewaterareasofseveralpans.OverthefieldsoppositethepansweseeaLesserKestrelalltoobrieflybeforeitmakesoff!
BackonthepanstwoduckstakeflightandonceresettledbackonthepansturnouttoaPintailandaShoveler.TwoBlackwingedStiltsareseenandthena
juvenileWhiskeredternappearsamongstthehawkingBlackheadedGulls.ThebundsarefullofroostinggullsanddottedamongthemareLittleandGreatWhiteEgrets,GreyHeronandBlackStorks.Thestorksappeartobeworking
theirwayalongthepanandacoupleofbirdsevenwingtheirwayoffoverthe
nearbyhillsidetotryandfindathermaltoliftthemontheirwaysouth.Somechanceinthisstringwind,andthetwobirdsdisappearlowoverthehills.Intotal
weseeatleast17BlackStorks,includingseveraljuvenilebirds.StevethenmanagestopickoutaSlenderbilledGullfeedingamongtheBlackheaded.Itsa
juvenilebirdandwesoonlocateasecond.Wesoonhavethemscopesand
everyonecansoonseethesubtledifferencebetweentheSlenderbilledandtheBlackheaded.ScopingtherestofthegullsStevethenspotsagleamingadultbird
inthenearestgroupoffeedingbirds.Thisadultisfeedingveryactivelyand
totallydifferenttoalltheBlackheaded.Itstandstalldashingaround,neckoutstretchedconstantlypickingatthewatersurface.Itscleanwhiteheadand
neckandgleaming,longbloodredbillstandsoutamile.SearchingsomemoreSteveeventuallypicksouttwomoreadults,thistimebothinwinterplumage
withthegreyearsmudge.
WemoveoffsouththroughthetownofPolichnitosanddowntowardsthesouth
coast.WebriefstopatariverbridgeseesnobirdsbutplentyofRedveinedDartersandSmallSkimmers.WearriveatVateraandhavealovelylunchbythe
beachattheHotelVateraBeach.HerewehaveoneyeontheseaandmanagetopickouttheoccasionalScopolisShearwaterastheybreakthehorizoninasteeparchastheywheelwestwards.
WeheadonouttoAgiosFokas.TheriverisveryquietbuttheheadlandholdsafewRedbackedShrikes,SpottedFlycatchers,WhinchatandNorthernWheatear.
WegetourfirstviewofaPersianSquirrelinanolivetreeandwespendsomemoretimeenjoyingacoupleofRedveinedDarters,thistimeseeingtheredveins
veryclearlyandStevepointingoutthebluelowerhalfoftheeyeswhichare
diagnosticofthespecies.ArrivingbackattheminibusStevespotsajuvenilesatonthegroundinanolivegrovewhenwehearthediagnosticsoundofBee
eaters.Weeventuallyseeonebirdsweepingacrosstheskynearbyandunfortunatelyforus,outofviewoverthetrees.Damn!
ThewindistillstrongandwedrivethelengthoftheAmbelikoValleywithoutseeingasinglemigrant.WearriveatthePanaghiaChapelundertheeyeofMount
OlympuswerewestakeoutaleakingpipeforKrpersNuthatchandSerin
withoutsuccess.AbonusthoughisbrilliantviewsofoursecondPersianSquirrelwhichcomesdownthetreebythepipetodrink.
Thewindandsungetsthebetterofusandwereturnearlyforarestandfreshen
upbeforeheadingdownintothevillagefordinner.
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Day 5, Monday, 21 September
Afterbreakfastweheadoutwestforthefirsttime.ApproachingIpsilouwestop
towatchawindhoveringShorttoedEaglebeforecomingacrossaflockofRavenscirclingtheroadoveradeaddog!WearriveatIpsilou.Thereissome
cloudpassingoverbutmountisstillinfullsunbutthewindisstrong.TheRavensarenowoverthemounthavingadogfightwithamalePeregrine.
WebeginouraccentandaresoonwatchingaRockNuthatchfeedingnearits
springtimenestsiteaconicalmudstructureunderaoverhangonarockface.NearbyaSombreTitfeedsinabushbutitprovesfrustratingasitflitsaround
anddoesntrealshowitselfproperly.
WecontinueuptheroadandhavegoodviewsofaSparrowhawkandbriefview
oftwoEleonorasFalconsbeforearrivingatthemonastery.WetakeaquicklookaroundthetopseeinganotherSombreTitalittlebetterthanthelastoneanda
femaleCirlBunting.Theviewsfromthetop,likemuchoftheisland,are
breathtaking.Perchedontopofthisconicalmountwecanseeallroundusandacrossthebarrenwestoftheisland.Afterlookinginsidethemonasterywehead
downtheothersidebutseeverylittleonourdescent.
AfterfailingtofindanyChukaralongthePetrifiedForestroadweheadoninto
SigriforlunchandavisittheexcellentPetrifiedForestMuseumabargainatonly5.WethenheadbackeastwardsthroughtheMeladiaValley.Westop
brieflyforthreeLesserKestrelsbeforereachingtheriverfordarea.Herewehavetoolittletimetoenjoytheloadsofbirdspresentifonlywehadgothere
earlier!AftergoodviewsofaTawnyPipitbythetrackweenterthefiggroveareatofindlotsofRedbackShrikes,SpottedFlycatchers,CommonWhitethroat,acoupleofBlackcapsandthestarformany,aroundadozenLesser
Whitethroats.Wegetgreatviewsofallthese,particularlytheLesser
Whitethroats.TheoccasionisdampenedslightlywhentheWryneckSteveseesflyingintothefiggroveislostdeepintothetreesandwithlittletimeorchance
oflocatingitweleave.
ItsalongdrivebackbutStevedoesoneofthoseguidethingsandmanagesto
spotacoupleofRedrumpedSwallowsmilesawaywhilstdriving!Westopandgetgreatviewsastheyfeedoverthevalley.
Wearrivebackatthehotel,freshenupandaresoondowninthevillagefor
anotherfulsomedinnerbeforeeagerlymakingforourbedslookingforwardto
tomorrow!
Day 6, Tuesday, 22 September
Webreakfastedatourusualtimeof0730andthenmadeoutat0830.Wehad
hadatipoffthattherewasaRedneckedGrebeonthenearbyseaandsureenough,withinafewminutesJoanhadspotteditandwewereenjoyingexcellent
views!Agreatstarttotheday.
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Red-necked Grebe, Skala Kallonis
WebumpedalongthetrackbytheTsikniasRiver,acrossthefordandacrossthe
fieldstowardsthesaltpans.Daphnespottedahoveringfalconsowestoppedto
findthreesplendidRedfootFalcons,oneintheairtheothertwosatuponnearbywires.Wehadourfillandcontinuedtobestoppedbymorefalcons,this
timethreeLesserKestrelsandasingleRedfoot.
Wearrivedonthepansandviewsfromthesouthroad.Alltheflamingoswereup
butwecouldntseewhatwasdisturbingthem.Stevecouldseesomebirdersintentlywatchingsomethingonthewestsidesoweshotroundtofindtheyhada
juvenileWhitePelican!Nowthatwouldscarethelivingdaylightsoutofthe
Flamingos!Wewatchedthedarkbirddistantlywhenittooktotheair.UpgotmostoftheFlamingosasitheadedeastandbegantocircle.Afterafewminutesit
changedcourseanddriftedoverwestwardsrightpastusandthencontinuedtoclimbwhilstdriftingoffsouthwestallthetimeandwaslosttoview.Wow!
WedheardtherehadbeenanotherpelicanatPolichnitospansthepreviousdaysoweheadedsouth.OuronlyhighlightonourjourneywasaHobbydogfighting
withagroupofMediterraneanGullsoffSkalaVasilikon,soitwasprettymuchstraighttothepansandwithinminutesofarrivalDaphnehadspottedthe
pelicaninthemiddleofthepans.Wewatchedasitseemedtocatchfishafter
fish,swishingitsenormousbillthroughthewaterandthentossingitsneckbacktomovethefishformitssack.ItwasmuchpalerthantheKallonibirdandthe
flesharoundtheeyewasdecidedlygrey,notpink.Itwaslookingsuspiciously
likeaDalmatianPelicanwhenitdecidedtotakeflightbrieflyshowingthedarkflightfeatherscontrastingwiththeunderwingcoverts.OursecondWhitePelican
oftheday!Thebirdsettlednexttooneofthebundsandwecontinuedtowatchitoffandonasweworkedourwaythroughwhatelsewaspresentmuchasthe
otherdaywithegrets,GreyHeron,BlackStorks,plovers,Avocet,Redshank,
Greenshank,LittleStintandRuff.WemovedonspottingfourMediterraneanGullsbeforepickingupamoultingadultLittleGullfeedinginthecornerofoneof
thepans.AnotherhighlightwasaWeaselfoundbyJuneworkingitswayalong
thesaltpansperimeterfence.Wegetgreatviewswhenitrunsoutontothetrack,stopsbrieflybeforeboltingbackinforcover!
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White Pelican, Polichnitos Saltpans
Wemoveawayfromthepansheadingnorth.NearSkamnioudiwefindarecentlybailedfieldthatiscoveredwithYellowWagtailsandNorthernWheatears
amongstwhichwefindfourTawnyPipitsincludingoneobligingbirdclosetotheminibus.OurlaststopbeforelunchisinolivegrovesnearSkalaVasilikontolook
forMiddleSpottedWoodpecker.Withinafewminuteswecanhearatleastone
birdchatteringaway.AswewalkthroughthegrovesStevespotsawoodpeckerflyingintoanopenolivetreebutitvanishes.Typical.Walkingbackwehear
anotherwoodpeckerlaughingatusandseeaBalkanWallLizardonthetrackbeforefindingadeadfoxunderoneoftheolive(ournosesspotteditfirst!).
Tawny Pipit. Nr Skamnioudi
AfterlunchattheAncientPyrraTavernaweheadupthroughNapiValleyand
downPlatania.WestopwhenSteveseesaSombreTitflyacrossthetrack,butwecanrelocatethebirdbutdogetgoodviewsofRockNuthatch.Westopagaina
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littlefurtheralongthetrackforanotherSombreTit,butagainfailtoseeitbutget
greatviewsofafeedingWoodlark.WeparkupinordertotakeawalktolookforSombreTitwhenSteveimmediatelyspotsoneonthenearbyfence.Weseeiton
offandonasitfeedsaroundtheoakshere.WealsoenjoyacoupleofSpottedFlycatchersflittingaroundthebottomofthetrees,huntingforinsectsforthe
deadbranchesundermostoftheoaks.DrivingbackalongthetrackweseeafabulousCardinalbutterflybaskingatthebaseofawall.
WedrivebackdownNapiValleyandstopatsomelargerocksbytheroadside.
WithinsecondsStevehasfoundourquarryBlueRockthrush.Amaleisperchedatopalargerockpeeringdownatus.Wemoveuptheroadalittleand
scopethebirdinbetterlightandfindasecondclosermaleonawall.Withthebetterlightwecanseetheyarebothclearlyblue!Weenjoythemforafew
minutesandalsogetbriefviewsofanotherSombreTit.
WeheadoffintothePotamiaValleywherewefind34LittleGrebesonthe
reservoirandstandingbytheriverbridgewewitnessaflockafterflockofHouse
Sparrowswhizzingupthevalleypastusandintotheolivegrovetoroost.ASpottedFlycatchersalliesfromthetopofanearbytree,amaleCirlBuntinganda
coupleoffemalescomedowntoapuddleintheotherwisedryriverbedandoursecondHobbyofthedaystreaksthroughthesky.
Withtimegettingonweheadbacktothehotel,stillmanagingtosqueezeinamalePeregrinedashingovertheChristouRiverMouthbeforearrivingbackat
thehotelandheadingintothevillagefordinner.
Day 7, Wednesday, 23 SeptemberForourlastfulldayweheadwestafterbreakfast.OurfirststopisbytheIoannis
ChapeljustwestofParakila.PullingupweimmediatelyfindaSombreTit
drinkingfromthewaterfountainbypullin!Itsonlyafewmetresawayandwegetgreatviews.WecontinuewestandthenheadsouthpastApothikatoMakara.
Thisareaisopenanddesolate.CrestedLarksboundandthereistheoddRockNuthatchhereandthereaswedriveslowlyinoursearchforChukar.Nothing.
Daphnethenspotsabirdonafencebelowus.ItsafabulousmaleBlackeared
Wheatearanditperformsbrilliantlyforusasitfeedsalongthefenceline.ARedbackedShrikeandCommonWhitethroatalsoputinanappearancewhilstwe
enjoythewheatear.AlittlefurtheralongthetrackStevespiesashrikewithwhitewingpatchesflyinguptheslopeLesserGreyShrikeheshoutsasitlands
onafencepostandposesforustowatchit!Furtheralongthetrackwecome
acrossapairofStonechatsandmoreRockNuthatches(theressomanyonthisisland!).Wearrivenearthesouthwardendoftheheadlandoverlookingthe
narrowmouthoftheGulfofKalloni.Wewalkouttotheheadlanditselftoview
acrosstotheeasternheadlandandtheislandofGarbias.TheresaflockofJackdawsnoisilywheelingaroundthesky,butapartfromafewmoreRed
backedShrikestherearenomigrants.ArrivingbackattheminibuswehearaMiddleSpottedWoodpeckermockingusfromanearbyfiggrove.Areweever
goingtoseethem?!
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Rock Nuthatch, Makara
WedrivebackuptothemainroadandcontinuewesttowardsPithariouReservoirnearEresos.ShortofthereservoirSteveyellswoodpeckers!,
screechestoahaltandpointsatanolivetreejustmetresfromtheminibus.
ThereinfullviewaretwoMiddleSpottedWoodpeckers!Theyhoparoundforabout30secondsbeforeflyingoff.Hooray!Wevenailedthematlast!
DrivingupPithariouReservoirbesidesthedryriverbedthereareafewWillow
Warblersflittingfrombushtobush.WeseeanotherStonechatandmoreRedbackedShrikesbeforewearrivebelowthedam.ThereareRedveinedDarterseverywhere.Afteralittlewhilewespytworaptorshighoveroneofthepeaks
ShorttoedEagleandLongleggedBuzzardbuttheyaretoofarawayfordecent
views.WeparkbythefordandgetgreatviewsofapairofCirlBuntingscomingdowntodrink.Thesubmergedfrogsinthefordoccasionallyleapuptryingto
catchoneofthemanypairsofovipositingRedveinedDarters.Weheaduptothetopofthedamntoviewthereservoir.Wow!itsdeepexclaimsSteve.Itstoo
deeptorevealthemuddybaratthefootofthedamandthereislittleexposed
mudaroundtheedges.JoanspotsacoupleofLittleGrebeandWhiteWagtailbelowbeforewemakeourwayuptheeastsidetothemonastery.Weparkto
viewthemonastery.Thewatersurfaceisempty.Steveseessomethingontheshoreline.Whatisit?Hediscernsitsafalconofsomesorthavingadrink.Itturns
torevealawhitefaceanddistinctmoustache.Hobbyhethinksasittakestothe
airitslargesizeandalldarkunderwingsrevealingitasanEleonorasFalcon!Itwheelsaroundrightinfrontofusandbegreatfabulousviewsforacoupleof
minutesbeforeitheadsoffupthevalley.Wow!
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Pithariou Monastery and reservoir
WeheadintoSkalaEresouandhavelunchatthedelightfulSoulatsoFish
Taverna.Itwasallniceandquiet,viewsoverthecalmseawhenthewholeplacesuddenlyfilledupwithenoughGreekstofillthreeofthelocaltavernas!The
noiselevelsquadrupled!Thetavernaownerwasstraightonthephonetocallfor
reinforcementstohelpcopewiththesuddenrush.WeateourlunchleisurelyandenjoyedthechatteroftheGreeksaroundus.Daphneobservedthateach
tablehadonlybeengivenasinglemenueach,toslowthemdownwhenorderingshequipped.
WesaidourfarewelltothetavernaownersandrelocatedtoBarAgua,themainlesbianbar,forcoffeeandicecream.Afteralittlemorerelaxationweresumed
ourbirdingatthenearbyRiverVergias.Fromtheroadbridgeweviewedthe
waterwhichwasteemingwithStripedneckedTerrapinsandfish.TherewereSeveralMoorhensandaKingfisherbrieflyappeared.
WeheadedfurtherwestintotheMeladiaValley.Thisisadesolate,yetstunning,
landscape.Awidevalleyplainsurroundedbyhillswithlittleinthewayof
bushesjustbareground,rocksandtheubiquitouschickenwirebush.WedroveslowlyinsearchofChukaragainnothingbutsawplentyofRedbacked
Shrikes,StonechatandSpottedFlycatchers.Stoppingforonewheatearwhich
wasclearlymobbingasnakewithaCrestedLark,StevefoundhimselflookingatanjuvenileIsabelline!Wegotgreatviewsasthebirdkeptstandingtallerand
openingitswingsandcallingwhilststandingonaboulder.Thesnakewasoutofviewbutthewheatearwashavingmakingitsownthreatclear.
StillwithnoChukarweheadeduptheMeladiaRivertrackand,loandbehold,wesoonflushedacoveyof18+Chukarfromtheroadsideandgotexcellentviewsas
somesatupandlookeddownatusfromtheridgeabove.ThiswasthelargestflockStevehadeverseenonLesvosbeatingtheprevious11whichwasonlya
fewhundredmetresfromhere!
WeturnaroundatafarmwhichwasfullofCornBuntingsandHouseSparrowsandheadedbackdowntothefiggrove.WithinaminuteofparkingupStevehad
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foundaTreePipitfeedingintheshadowofoneofthefigtrees.Wealleventually
greatviews,includingwiththescope,asthepipitcreptaroundslowlypickingattheleaflitter.
Thetrees,astwodaysago,werebusywithwarblers,RedbackedShrikesand
SpottedFlycatchers.NewwasasingleOlivaceousseenbrieflywhenaflockof17RockDovessweptpastus.Weenjoyedthebirdshereforafurther45minutesbeforebiddingfarewelltooneofourfavouritesitesoftheweekandbeganthe
drivebackhome.
Overdinnerweeachvotedforourfavouriteplaceandfavouritebirdandshared
ourholidaymagicmoment.TheMeladiaValleygotmorevotes(DavidandSteve)pippingtheKalloniSaltpans(DaphnefortheFlamingos),PolichnitosSaltpans
(Joan)andAncientPyrra(Junetheseasidetavernaweusedtwice).The
flamingobeingflushedbytheWhitePelicanyesterday,withthemwheelingaroundagainstthedarkhillsideshowingofftheirshapeandcolourbrilliantly
wasaclearfavouritewiththreeofussharingitasourmagicmoment(June,Joan
andSteve)withDavidpickingtodaysbrilliantviewsoftheEleonorasFalconandDaphnegoingfortheamazingShorttoedEagleshefoundonoursecondday
onlyaftershehadfirstidentifieditasagull!Nosinglebirdgottheaccoladeofbirdoftheweek.DavidplumpedfortheeverpresentRockNuthatches;Daphne
fortodaysEleonorasFalcon;JoanforthewindhoveringShorttoedEaglefrom
daytwo;JuneforyesterdaysPolichnitosWhitePelican;whilstStevefelttodaysTreePipitinMeladiasummedupLesvosbrilliantlyitwasfulloflittlesurprises.
Day 8, Thursday, 24 SeptemberWereheadinghometodaysowehavealatebreakfastandafterfarewellstothehotelstaffweheadovertotheTsikniasRiverforalastlook.Neartheriver
mouthwefindaGreyHeronfeedingintheshadeoftheTamariskbushesand
acrossthefieldsasecondheronisperchedatopathinpine!WeheadintothefieldsandfindacutfieldteemingwithYellowWagtails.Westopforascanand
findaCommonKestrelandthere,perchedintopofafigtree,anadultLongleggedBuzzard.Evenwithoutthescopes(whicharepackedfortheflight)wecan
seeitspaleheadandtail.Wedecidetowaittoseeifitfliesandcontinue
watchingthefieldinthemeantime.InadditiontothewagtailswefindsomeCornBuntings,aNorthernWheatearandaLesserGreyShrikehuntingfromoverhead
wiresandanearbyfig.AllthewagtailssuddenlytaketotheaircallinginpanicwhenamalePeregrinesweepspastusjustlowoverthegroundandclose
enoughforustoheretheswooshasitpasses!Itfailstocatchanythingandpulls
upandregainsheightbeforestoopingagainatsomethinginanearbyfield.Wow!Thebuzzardmeanwhilehasntmoved.ALittleOwliscallingfromnearby
buildingsandwegetfabulousviewsofaflybyBlackStork.Stevethennotices
thattheLongleggedBuzzardhasgone!Hespotsitflyingalongthefieldandweallgetontoitasitrisestoperchontopofatelegraphpole.Ittakesflightagain
andwecannowseeitsverylongwingsgivingitaveryunCommonBuzzardlikeshape.
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TimespassingandweheadofftothesaltpanstobidfarewelltotheFlamingos.
Theyareinoneofthemiddlepansandtheirnumbersaregreatlyreduced.
WedriveacrosstheislandtoMytiliniandaresooncheckinginattheairport.Acoupleofhourslaterweareonourwayandinwhatseemslikenexttonotime
wearebiddingeachafondfarewellandgoourseparatewayswiththememoriesofafabulousholidayswimmingaroundinourheads.
BIRDS
LittleGrebeRedneckedGrebe
ScopolisShearwaterCormorant
WhitePelican
LittleEgretGreatWhiteEgret
GreyHeron
PurpleHeronBlackStork
GreaterFlamingoCommonShelduck
Shoveler
PintailShorttoedEagle
BootedEagleMarshHarrier
MontagusHarrierGoshawkEurasianSparrowhawk
CommonBuzzard
LongleggedBuzzardLesserKestrel
CommonKestrelRedfootedFalcon
Hobby
EleonorasFalconPeregrine
ChukarMoorhen
BlackwingedStilt
AvocetLittleRingedPlover
KentishPlover
RingedPloverLittleStint
DunlinRuff
CommonSnipeCurlew
CommonRedshank
GreenshankCommonSandpiper
MediterraneanGullBlackheadedGull
SlenderbilledGull
YellowleggedGullWhiskeredTern
RockDove
WoodpigeonCollaredDove
TurtleDoveLittleOwl(heardonly)
AlpineSwift
KingfisherEuropeanBeeeater
HoopoeMiddleSpottedWoodpecker
CrestedLarkWoodlarkSandMartin
BarnSwallow
RedrumpedSwallowHouseMartin
TawnyPipitTreePipit
YellowWagtail
WhiteWagtailWhinchat
StonechatIsabellineWheatear
NorthernWheatear
BlackearedWheatearBlueRockthrush
Blackbird
CettisWarblerOlivaceousWarbler
LesserWhitethroatCommonWhitethroat
BlackcapChiffchaff
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WillowWarbler
SpottedFlycatcherSombreTit
BlueTitGreatTit
KrpersNutchatchWesternRockNuthatchShorttoedTreecreeper
RedbackedShrike
WoodchatShrikeLesserGreyShrike
JayJackdaw
HoodedCrow
RavenHouseSparrow
Chaffinch
GreenfinchGoldfinch
LinnetCirlBunting
CornBunting
103species
BUTTERFLIESSwallowtailLargeWhite
SouthernSmallWhite
CloudedYellow
SouthernWhiteAdmiralRedAdmiral
PaintedLadyCardinal
WoodlandGraylingEasternRockGraylingCommonMeadowBrown
SmallCopper
HollyBlueCommonBlue
DRAGONFLIES
BlueEmperor
LesserEmperorSmallSkimmer
RedveinedDarter
OTHER WILDLIFE
LesvosCicada(heard)RedFox(RIP)
Weasel
PersianSquirrelMarshFrog
BalkanWallLizardGlassLizard(RIP)
StripeneckedTerrapinEuropeanPondTerrapin
All photos Steve Dudley