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Lhotse (7)

Timeline[edit]

1955 Attempt by the International Himalayan Expedition.

1956 First ascent of the main summit:Fritz LuchsingerandErnst Reiss.[7]

1965 First attempt on Lhotse Shar by aJapaneseexpedition - reached 8,100m.

1970 First ascent of Lhotse Shar by Austrian expedition,Sepp Mayerl,Rolf Walter

1979 Second ascent of the main summit byJerzy Kukuczka.[8]

1981 April 30 Third ascent of the main summit byHristo Prodanov,Bulgaria.[9]

1981 October 16 Second ascent of Lhotse SharSwitzerland,Colin Molines

1984 May 20 The first ascent of the south face of the mountain finished on LhotseSharCzechoslovakia

1986 Ascent byReinhold Messner,thus becoming the first person to climb all of the Fourteen

Eight-Thousanders.

1988 December 31Krzysztof Wielicki,a Polish climber, completed the firstwinterascent of

Lhotse.

1989 October 24Jerzy Kukuczkaperishes while climbing the South Face of Lhotse, when his

secondhand rope breaks.

1990 April 22 Tomo esen makes first solo ascent of South Face of Lhotse. Controversy of his

climb is later raised by USSR Himalayan expedition, claiming that his ascent would be

impossible.

1990 October 16 First ascent of South Face of Lhotse, USSR Himalayan expedition Sergey

Bershov and Gennadiy Karataev.

1994 May 13Carlos Carsoliogot mountaintop solo, introducing a world speedrecordat 23 h 50

min rise from basecamp to the summit.

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1996Chantal Mauduitbecomes the first woman to reach the summit of Lhotse.

2001 First ascent of Lhotse Middle by Russian expedition.

2007Pemba Doma Sherpa,Nepalimountaineer and two-time summiter ofMt. Everest,falls to

her death from Lhotse at 8000 m[10]

2011 May 1415, Michael Horst, American guide, summits Mount Everest and Lhotse without

descending below Camp IV (South Col) with less than 21 hours elapsing between the two

summits.[11]

2011 On May 20, Indian mountaineerArjun Vajpaibecame the youngest climber ever to summit

Lhotse, aged 17 years, 11 months and 16 days.[12]

Lhotse Middle[edit]

Lhotse Middle was first climbed in 2001 by three groups ofRussianclimbers. At the time it was the

last unclimbed named eight-thousand-metre summit.[13]

The 2001 climb was not the first expedition to the peak; the idea of its ascent was originated by

Vladimir Bashkirov (who died in a 1997 expedition).[14]

Summit party details:[14]

May 23 - first group: Alexey Bolotov, Sergey Timofeev, Evgeny Vinogradsky, Petr Kuznetsov

May 24 - second group: Nikolay Zilin, Gleb Sokolov (the first person to have climbed all the

Lhotse peaks), Yuri Koshelenko

May 27 - third group: Vladimir Yanochkin, Viktor Volodin

Lhotse Face[edit]

The western flank of Lhotse is known as the Lhotse Face. Any climber bound for the South Col on

Everest must climb this 1,125 m (3,690 ft) wall of glacial blue ice. This face rises at 40 and 50

degree pitches with the occasional 80 degree bulges. High-altitude climbingSherpasand the lead

climbers will set fixed ropes up this wall of ice. Climbers and porters need to establish a good rhythm

of foot placement and pulling themselves up the ropes using theirjumars.Two rocky sections called

the Yellow Band and the Geneva Spur interrupt the icy ascent on the upper part of the face.

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