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8/9/2019 Loro Dhaulagiri
1/2
Dhaulagiri (2)
Dhaulagiri I climbing history
Most ascents have followed the northeast ridge route of the first ascent, but climbs have been made
from most directions. As of 2007 there had been 358 successful ascents and 58 fatalities.[! "etween
#$50 and 200, 2.88% of 2,0# e&'edition members and staff going above base cam' on (haulagiri
) died. *n all 8,000 metre 'ea+s in e'al the death rate was #.3%, ranging from 0.5% on -ho
*u to /.0/% on Anna'urna ) and 3.05% on Manaslu.[7!
Partial timeline
• #$50 (haulagiri ) reconnoitered b a 1rench e&'edition led b Maurice erog. 4he do
not see a feasible route and switch to Anna'urna, where the ma+e the first ascent of an 8000 m
'ea+.
• #$53#$58 1ive e&'editions attem't the north face, or 6ear "uttress, route.
• #$5$ Austrian e&'edition led b 1rit Moravec ma+es the first attem't on the northeast
ridge.
•
#$0 wissAustrian e&'edition led b Ma& 9iselin, successful ascent b :urt (iemberger ,6. (iener, 9. 1orrer, A. chelbert, ima (or;e her'a, awang (or;e her'a on Ma #3. [8! 1irst
imalaan climb su''orted b a fi&edwing aircraft, which eventuall crashed in Hidden
Valley north of the mountain during ta+eoff and was abandoned.[$!
• #$$ American team led b "od 9verett attem't southeast ridge< seven team members,
including 9verett, are +illed in an avalanche.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dhaulagiri#cite_note-6http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dhaulagiri#cite_note-6http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cho_Oyuhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cho_Oyuhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cho_Oyuhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cho_Oyuhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manasluhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manasluhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dhaulagiri#cite_note-7http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maurice_Herzoghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maurice_Herzoghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eight-thousanderhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eight-thousanderhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eight-thousanderhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fritz_Moravechttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fritz_Moravechttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fritz_Moravechttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kurt_Diembergerhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kurt_Diembergerhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dhaulagiri#cite_note-aj_1984-8http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dhaulagiri#cite_note-aj_1984-8http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pilatus_PC-6http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pilatus_PC-6http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dhaulagiri#cite_note-9http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Avalanchehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Avalanchehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cho_Oyuhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cho_Oyuhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manasluhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dhaulagiri#cite_note-7http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maurice_Herzoghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eight-thousanderhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eight-thousanderhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fritz_Moravechttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kurt_Diembergerhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dhaulagiri#cite_note-aj_1984-8http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pilatus_PC-6http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dhaulagiri#cite_note-9http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Avalanchehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dhaulagiri#cite_note-6
8/9/2019 Loro Dhaulagiri
2/2
• #$70 second ascent, via the northeast ridge b a =a'anese e&'edition led b 4o+ufu *hta
and ho;i )manari. 4etsu;i :awada and >ha+'a 4ening her'a reach the summit.[#0!
• #$73 American team led b =ames Morrisse ma+es third ascent via the northeast ridge.
ummit team? =ohn @os+elle, >ouis @eichardt, awang amden her'a.
• #$75 =a'anese team led b 4a+ashi Amemia attem'ts southwest ridge also +nown as
the south 'illarB. i& are +illed in an avalanche.
• #$7 )talian e&'edition ma+es the fourth ascent.
• #$77 )nternational team led b @einhold Messner attem'ts the south face.
• #$78, s'ring? Amemia returns with an e&'edition that 'uts five members on the summit via
the southwest ridgeCthe first ascent not using the northeast ridge. *ne team member dies
during the ascent.
• #$78, autumn ei+o 4ana+a of =a'an leads successful climb of the ver difficult southeast
ridge. 1our are +illed during the ascent. 1rench team attem'ts the southwest buttress also
called the south buttressB, onl reaches 7,200 m.
• #$80 A fourman team consisting of 6olish climbers Dote+ :urt+a, >udwi+ Eiccns+i,
1renchman @enF Ghilini and cotsman Ale& Mac)ntre climb the east face, to''ing out at 7,500
m on the northeast ridge. After a bivouac the descend bac+ to base cam' in a storm. *ne wee+
later the climb the mountain via the northeast ridge reaching the summit on Ma #8.[##!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dhaulagiri#cite_note-aaj_1971-10http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=James_D._Morrissey&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=James_D._Morrissey&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reinhold_Messnerhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voytek_Kurtykahttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Alex_MacIntyre&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Alex_MacIntyre&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dhaulagiri#cite_note-aaj_1981-11http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dhaulagiri#cite_note-aaj_1971-10http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=James_D._Morrissey&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reinhold_Messnerhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voytek_Kurtykahttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Alex_MacIntyre&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dhaulagiri#cite_note-aaj_1981-11