mantenimiento kx250f

7/28/2019 mantenimiento kx250f

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MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT 29

MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT

Periodic Maintenance Chart

The maintenance and adjustments outlined in this chapter are easily carried out and must be done in accor-dance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart to keep the motorcycle in good running condition.

1. Periodic Inspection (Engine Related Item)

FREQUENCY

OPERATION

After eachrace (or

2.5 hour)

Every 3races (or7.5 hour)

Every 6races (or15 hour)


Asrequired

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Hot starter cable - adjust 61

Throttle cable - adjust 47Valve clearance - inspect 62Clutch friction/steel plates - inspect 57Spark plug - clean, regap 41Clutch - adjust 56Air cleaner element - clean 45Carburetor - inspect and adjust

48

Cylinder, cylinder head - inspect *Crankshaft - inspect Silencer - clean and inspect 67


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30 MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT

FREQUENCY

OPERATION

After eachrace (or

2.5 hour)




Asrequired

SeePage

Kick pedal and shift pedal - clean Engine sprocket - inspect 74Coolant - inspect 38Breather hose - inspect Radiator hoses and connection -inspect 38


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2. Periodic Inspection (Chassis Related Item)

FREQUENCY

OPERATION

After eachrace (or

2.5 hour)




Asrequired

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Brake adjustment - inspect 77Brake pad wear - inspect 80Brake fluid level - inspect Spoke tightness and rim runout -inspect 118Drive chain - adjust 70Drive chain - lubricate 74Drive chain wear - inspect 72Front fork - inspect and clean 83Nuts, bolts, fasteners - inspect 121*Fuel system - clean Fuel hoses, connections - inspect Brake hoses, connections - inspect Steering play - inspect 81*Steering stem bearing - grease Rear sprocket - inspect 74General lubrication - perform 128*Wheel bearing - inspect


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FREQUENCY

OPERATION

After eachrace (or

2.5 hour)




Asrequired

SeePage

*Swingarm and UNI-TRAK linkagepivots - inspect *Swingarm and UNI-TRAK linkagepivots - grease

Frame - clean and check Wheel/tire (air pressure, excessivewear or damage) - inspect

Rear shock absorber - inspect Cable - inspect


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3. Periodic Replacement (Engine and Chassis Related Item)

FREQUENCY

OPERATION

After eachrace (or 2.5

hour)


Every 6races (or 15

hour)


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Engine oil - replace R 35

Oil filter - replace R 35

*Piston and piston ring - replace Every 6 races

*Piston pin - replace R

Silencer packing - replace R 67

*Brake fluid - replace Every 2 years

*Brake master cylinder cup and dust seal -replace

Every 2 years

*Brake caliper piston seal and dust seal -replace

Every 2 years

*Brake hoses and pipe - replace Every 4 years

Front fork oil - replace R

*Fuel hose - replace Every 4 years

*Rear shock absorber oil - replace R

: Replace, add, adjust, clean or torque if necessary.* : Should be serviced by referring to the Service Manual or an authorized Kawasaki dealer.R: Replace


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Engine Oil

In order for the engine, transmission and clutchto function properly, maintain the engine oil at the

proper level, and change the oil and oil filter period-ically.Not only do dirt and metal particles collect in the

oil, but the oil itself loses its lubricative quality if usedtoo long.

WARNING

Motorcycle operation with insufficient, de-teriorated, or contaminated engine oil will

cause accelerated wear and may result inengine or transmission seizure, accident,and injury.

Because of the semi-dry sump lubrication system,the engine oil level indicated on the oil level inspec-tion window will fluctuate depending on the motorcy-cles position and engine speed when the enginesshut off. To ensure a proper reading of the engineoil level, follow the Oil Level Inspection procedures

closely.

CAUTION

Racing the engine before the oil reaches ev-ery part can cause engine seizure.

NOTE

To achieve better engine performance and lessweight, the engine oil capacity of this model is 0.5L less than the previous model.

In order to keep the engine in good condition,

maintain the proper engine oil level and changethe oil regularly in accordance with the instructionsin the MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT chap-ter of this manual.

Oil Level Inspection

If the oil has just been changed, let the motorcyclesit a few minutes allowing the oil to settle.

Start the engine and run it for several minutes atidle speed. Do not run the engine at high en-gine speed.

Stop the engine and wait several minutes for theoil to settle.

Check the engine oil level with the motorcycle ver-tical through the oil level inspection window on thelower right side of the engine. The oil level shouldcome up between the high and low level lines nextto the window.

If the oil level is too high, remove the excess oil

using a syringe or other suitable device.

If the oil level is too low, add the correct amountof oil through the oil filler opening. Use oil of thesame type and brand as those of the one that isalready in the engine.

NOTE

If no oil appears in the oil level inspection window,tip the motorcycle slightly to the right until oil is


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visible then return to an upright position. If no oilappears even when tipped at an extreme angle,remove drain plugs to empty any oil that may be inthe transmission and crankcase, reinstall the drainplugs and refill with the specified amount of oil.

A. Oil Level Inspection WindowB. High Level LineC. Low Level LineD. Oil Filler Cap

Oil and/or Oil Filter ChangeThe engine oil and/or oil filter should be changed

periodically to ensure long engine life.

Warm up the engine thoroughly so that the oil willpick up any sediment and drain easily.

Stop the engine, and place a container beneath it.

Remove the oil filler cap. Remove the oil drain plugs and position the vehi-

cle perpendicular to the ground to allow all the oilto drain.

WARNINGMotor oil is a toxic substance. Dispose ofused oil properly. Contact your local author-ities for approved disposal methods or pos-sible recycling.

A. Oil Drain Plug

When the oil filter is replaced, remove the oil filtercover and take off the cover with O-ring.


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A. Oil Filter Cover

B. Bolts

Replace the oil filter element with a new one.

A. Oil Filter Element

B. Grommet

Apply a little engine oil to the grommet. Install the oil filter element with the grommet to-

ward the engine.

CAUTION

Inside-Out installation stop oil flow, causingengine seizure.

Install the spring to the oil filter. Install the oil filter cover with a new O-ring and

tighten its bolts to the specified torque.

After the oil has completely drained out, install thedrain plug with its new gasket. Proper torque for itis shown in the table.


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Engine Oil Drain Plug Tightening Torque

Drain Plug 20 Nm (2.0 kgfm, 15 ftlb)

NOTE

Replace any gaskets or O-ring with their newones.

Fill the engine up to the high level line with goodquality engine oil specified in the table.

Install the oil filler cap. Start the engine. Check the oil level and oil leakage.Recommended Engine Oil

Castrol Power 1 R4 Racing SAE5W-40

Engine Oil Capacity

0.75 L (0.79 US qt) [When filter is not removed]

0.80 L (0.85 US qt) [When filter is removed]

1.00 L (1.06 US qt) [When engine is completelydry]

NOTEIf unavailable, use equivalent engine oil in accor-

dance with the following table.

Type:API SG, SH, SJ or SL with JASO MA,MA1 or MA2

Viscosity: SAE 10W-30, 10W-40, 10W-50

NOTE

Do not add any chemical additive to the oil. Oilsfulfilling the above requirements are fully formu-lated and provide adequate lubrication for both theengine and the clutch.

The oil viscosity may need to be changed to ac-commodate atmospheric conditions in your ridingarea.


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Cooling System

Cooling HosesCheck the cooling hoses for cracks or deteriora-

tion, and the connections for looseness in accor-dance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart.

RadiatorCheck the radiator fins for obstruction by insects or

mud. Clean off any obstructions with a low-pressurestream of water.

CAUTION

Using high-pressure water, as from a carwash facility, could damage the radiator finsand impair the radiators effectiveness.Do not obstruct or deflect airflow by in-stalling unauthorized accessories in front ofthe radiator.Interference with the cooling airflow can leadto overheating and consequent engine dam-age.

CoolantCoolant absorbs excessive heat from the engine

and transfers it to the air through the radiator. Ifthe coolant level becomes low, the engine overheats

and may suffer severe damage. Check the coolantlevel each day before riding the motorcycle, and re-plenish coolant if the level is low.

WARNING

To avoid burns, do not remove the radiatorcap or change the coolant when the engineis still hot.Wait until the engine cools down.

NOTE

The coolant originally filled into the cooling sys-tem contains 50% of a permanent, ethylene-glycol-based antifreeze, has a freezing point of 35C(31F) and a green appearance.

Coolant Level Inspection

Situate the motorcycle perpendicular to theground until the radiator cap is level to the ground,so that the radiator cap is located uppermostin order to exhaust the air accumulated in theradiator.

Remove the radiator cap in two steps.

First, turn the cap counterclockwise to the first stopand wait there for a few seconds. Then, push and turn the cap further in the same

direction and remove it.


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A. Radiator Cap

Check the coolant level in the radiator. Thecoolant should come up to the bottom of theradiator filler neck.

NOTE

Check the coolant level when the engine is cold(room or ambient temperature).

A Coolant Level

B. Filler Neck

If the coolant level is low, add coolant through theradiator filler opening to the bottom of the fillerneck.

Water and Antifreeze Mixing Ratio

1 : 1 (water : antifreeze)

Recommended Antifreeze

Permanent type of antifreeze (ethylene glycolbase plus corrosion and rust inhibitors foraluminum engines and radiators)

Coolant Total Amount

1.10 L (0.3 US qt)


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Install the radiator cap.Coolant Change

The coolant should be changed to ensure long en-gine life, if necessary.

Wait for the engine to cool completely.

Situate the motorcycle perpendicular to theground until the radiator cap is level to the ground. Remove the radiator cap in two steps (see the

Coolant level inspection" section).

Drain the coolant from the engine and radiator inthe following way.

Place a container under the coolant drain plug onthe water pump cover and remove the drain plug.

A. Coolant Drain PlugB. Water Pump Cover

CAUTION

Immediately wash away any coolant thatspills on the frame, engine, or wheel.

WARNINGWash off any coolant that might havesplashed on the tires, since the presence ofcoolant on them makes them slippery andcould cause an accident and injury.

Visually inspect the old coolant. If whitish cotton-like wafts are observed, aluminum

parts in the cooling system are corroded and the

system must be flushed. If the coolant is brown , iron or steel parts are rust-

ing and the system must be flushed.

Check the cooling system for damage, loose con-nections, and leaks.

Install the coolant drain plug with its new gasketat the water pump cover and apply the specifiedtorques.

NOTE

Always replace any gasket with a new one.

Coolant Drain Plug Tightening Torque

7.0 Nm (0.7 kgfm, 62 inlb)

Fill the radiator up to the bottom of the radiator fillerneck with coolant.


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Lean the motorcycle slightly to the right until theradiator filler neck is level to the ground so that thefiller neck is located uppermost in order to exhaustthe air accumulated in the radiator.

CAUTIONUse coolant containing corrosion inhibitorsmade specifically for aluminum engines andradiators in accordance with the instructionof the manufacture. Soft or distilled watermust be used with the antifreeze in the cool-ing system. If hard water is used in the sys-tem, it causes scale accumulation in the wa-ter passages, and considerably reduces theefficiency of the cooling system.

NOTE

Pour in the coolant slowly so that it can expel theair from the engine and radiator.

Install the radiator cap. Check the cooling system for leaks. Start the engine and warm up thoroughly, then

stop it.

Check the coolant level after the engine hascooled down. The coolant should come up to thebottom of the radiator filler neck.

If the coolant level is low, add coolant up to thebottom of the radiator filler neck.

Install the radiator cap. Check the cooling system for leaks.

Spark Plug

A. GapB. Outer Electrode

The spark plug should be taken out periodically forinspection and regapping. Measure the gap with awire-type thickness gauge. If incorrect, adjust thegap to the specified value by bending the outer elec-trode.

Spark Plug Gap

CR8ECR9E

0.7 0.8 mm (0.028 0.032 in.)


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If the plug is oily or has carbon built up on it, cleanit (preferably with a sandblaster) and then cleanoff any abrasive particles. The plug may also becleaned using a high-flash-point solvent and a wirebrush or other suitable tool. If the spark plug elec-

trodes are corroded, or damaged, or if the insulatoris cracked, replace the plug. The standard sparkplug is shown in the table below.

Standard Spark Plug

NGK CR8E

To find out whether the plugs heat range is correct,remove the plug and examine the ceramic insulatoraround the center electrode. If the ceramic is light

brown, the spark plug correctly matches the enginetemperature.If the ceramic is burned white, the plug should be

replaced with a colder plug.

Optional Spark Plug

Colder NGK CR9E

NOTE

If the engine performance drops, try replacing thespark plug to regain performance.

Spark Plug Removal and Installation

Pull the spark plug cap off the plug before remov-ing the spark plug.

Apply a suitable wrench to the spark plug. Loosen and remove the spark plug. When reinstalling the spark plug, torque it to spec-

ification.

Spark Plug Tightening Torque

13 Nm (1.3 kgfm, 9.6 ftlb)

Fit the plug cap securely onto the spark plug, andpull the cap lightly to make sure that it is properlyinstalled.


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Air Cleaner

A clogged air cleaner restricts the air intake, in-creases fuel consumption, reduces engine power,

and can cause spark plug fouling. Inspect the air in-take system, which includes the air filter and air ductto the carburetor, and the duct clamps and carbure-tor, before each race or practice session.

WARNING

Any dirt entry into the engine can cause en-gine damage or engine failure. Engine failurecould lead to an accident and injury.

Regularly inspect the air intake system fordirt entry. If any dirt is found in the system,the entire system must be cleaned.

CAUTION

A clogged air cleaner will affect fuel mixtureto the engine and reduce engine power andcause spark plug fouling.

NOTE

In dusty areas, the element should be cleanedmore frequently than recommended interval.

After riding through rain or on muddy roads, theelement should be cleaned immediately.

Element Removal and Inspection

Remove the seat bolt and seat.

A. Seat BoltB. Seat

Remove the wing bolt, and take out the air cleanerelement.


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A. Wing Bolt

B. Air Cleaner Element

Check inside of the inlet tract and carburetor fordirt. If dirty, clean the intake tract and carburetorthoroughly.

Stuff a clean, lint-free towel into the carburetor tokeep dirt from entering the carburetor.

Wipe out the inside of the air cleaner housing witha clean, damp towel.

Take the element off its frame.

CAUTION

Do not twist or wring the element, as it getseasily torn or damaged.

Inspect the element. If it is dirty, clean it. Alsocheck if the element is in good condition (no tears,

hardening or shrinkage). If damaged, replace theelement or it will allow dirt into the carburetor.

WARNING

A clogged air cleaner may allow dirt and dust

to enter the carburetor and jam the throttle,which could cause an accident and injury.

CAUTION

A clogged air cleaner may allow dirt and dustto enter the engine, causing it to wear exces-sively or to become damaged.

A. Air Cleaner ElementB. Element Frame


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Element Cleaning and Installation

Clean the element in a bath of a high flash pointsolvent or hot soapy water. Rinse the element withclear water to remove all traces of the cleaningsolution.

Squeeze the element dry in a clean towel.CAUTIONDo not twist, wring or blow the element dryto avoid damaging it.

WARNINGClean the element in a well-ventilated area,and make sure that there are no sparks orflames anywhere near the working area; thisincludes any appliance with a pilot light. Toavoid a fire or explosion, do not use gasolineor a low-flash-point solvent to clean the ele-ment.

After cleaning, let the filter dry completely. Satu-rate the element with a high-quality foam air fil-ter oil and make sure that the oil is evenly ap-plied throughout the element. Squeeze out the ex-cess oil, but do not wring the element as this couldcause tearing. In this case, too much oil is betterthan too little. Finally pat the inside of the elementwith a paper towel to remove any excess oil.


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Before installation, check the element for damagesuch as tears, hardening, or shrinkage. If dam-aged, replace the element.

Apply grease to all mating surfaces and to thescrew hole in the air cleaner housing and intake

tract. Remove the towel from the carburetor. Install the element onto its frame, and coat the

element lip and lip seat with a thick layer of all-purpose grease to assure a complete seal.

A. Apply Grease.

Install the air cleaner element so that its tab facesupward and its projections align with the holes inthe housing.

A. Tab

B. ProjectionsC. Holes

Install the seat.


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Throttle Cable

Throttle Cable AdjustmentInspect the throttle grip for smooth operation in

all steering positions. Check and adjust the throttlecable in accordance with the Periodic MaintenanceChart.

Check that the throttle grip has 2 3 mm (0.08 0.12 in.) of play and turns smoothly.

A. Throttle GripB. 2 3 mm (0.08 0.12 in.)

If the play is incorrect, loosen the locknut on theupper end of the throttle cable and turn the ad-juster to obtain the specified play. Then, tightenthe locknut toward the adjuster.

A. Adjusters

B. Locknuts

With the engine idling, turn the handlebar bothways and check if handlebar movement changesthe idling speed. If so, the throttle cable may beimproperly adjusted or incorrectly routed, or dam-aged. Be sure to correct any of these conditionsbefore riding.

WARNING

Operation with an improperly adjusted, in-correctly routed, or damaged cable could re-sult in an unsafe riding condition.


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Carburetor

Idling AdjustmentIdling adjustment is carried out using the pilot

screw and the idling adjusting screw.

First turn the pilot screw with the pilot screw ad-juster D (special tool) in until it is lightly seated,then back it out 2-1/8 turns.

CAUTION

Do not force the pilot screw beyond the fullyseated position, or the adjusting mechanismmay be damaged.

A. Pilot ScrewB. Pilot Screw Adjuster D (570011588)

Thoroughly warm up the engine. Turn the idling adjusting screw to adjust the idling

speed 1 900 2 000 r/min (rpm) by using the en-gine revolution tester (The tester should be fol-lowed by the method described by the manufac-

ture).

A. Idling Adjusting ScrewB. Tester

Open and close the throttle a few times to makesure the idling speed does not change, and read-just if necessary.

With the engine idling, turn the handlebar bothways and check if handlebar movement changesthe idling speed. If so, the throttle cable may beimproperly adjusted, incorrectly routed, or dam-aged. Be sure to correct any of these conditionsbefore riding.


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WARNING

Operation with a damaged throttle cablecould result in an unsafe riding condition.

CAUTIONThis motorcycle is designed for competitionuse only. Therefore, the radiator does notincorporate a coolant reserve tank or cool-ing fan. Prolonged idling of the engine withno airflow through the radiator can causecoolant loss and engine overheating result-ing in possible engine damage. Any ridingconditions that increase engine temperature

will further reduce idling time before coolantloss occurs. These conditions include highambient temperature, sandy or muddy ter-rain, or other conditions causing high engineloads at low speeds. Furthermore, warmingthe engine up excessively before operation,or leaving idling with the hot engine temper-ature after operation results in the engineoverheating, too.

Carburetor Removal

WARNING

Gasoline is extremely flammable and can beexplosive under certain conditions.

Always stop the engine and do not smoke.Make sure the area is well-ventilated and freefrom any source of flame or sparks; this in-cludes any appliance with a pilot light.

Turn the fuel tap lever to the OFF position, anddisconnect the fuel hose from the fuel tap.

A. OFF PositionB. Fuel Hose

Remove the seat and both side covers.


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A. Bolts

B. Side CoversC. Seat

Remove the fuel tank together with left and rightradiator covers (see the Valve Clearance sec-tion).

Loosen the air cleaner duct clamp screw at thecarburetor.

A. Screw

B. ClampC. Carburetor

Remove the silencer (see the Exhaust System"section).

Remove the rear frame bolts. Pull the air cleaner duct clamp to the air cleaner

housing side, and disconnect the carburetor fromthe air cleaner duct.

Remove the air cleaner duct clamp.CAUTION

If the clamp is not removed from the aircleaner housing, the rear shock absorberspring may be damaged.

Remove the rear frame together with the aircleaner housing.


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A. Bolts

B. Rear Frame

After removing the air cleaner housing, push aclean, lint-free towel into the carburetor inlet andoutlet to keep dirt or other foreign material fromentering.

WARNING

If dirt or dust is allowed to pass throughinto the carburetor, the throttle may becomestuck, possibly causing an accident.

Remove the cable holder cover by removing thebolt.

A. BoltB. Cable Holder Cover

Remove the lower ends of the throttle cables fromthe carburetor pulley by loosing the locknut.


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A. Throttle Cable Lower Ends

B. Carburetor PulleyC. Accelerator CableD. Decelerator CableE. Locknuts

Disconnect the throttle sensor connector.

A. Throttle Sensor Connector

Loosen the carburetor clamp screw.


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A. Screw

B. ClampC. Carburetor

Drain the fuel from the float bowl by removing thedrain plug. After draining, install the drain plugsecurely.

A. Float Bowl

B. Drain Plug

Detach the carburetor from the carburetor clampand hold it up above the vehicle.

Remove the bolt, and disconnect the hot startercable.


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A. Bolt

B. Hot Starter Cable

CAUTION

If dirt gets through into the engine, exces-sive engine wear and possibly engine dam-age will occur.

Carburetor Installation

Connect the throttle sensor connector and hotstarter cable. Lubricate the lower ends of the throttle cables. Install the throttle cables and cover.

WARNING

Operation with an improperly adjusted, in-correctly routed, or damaged cable could re-sult in an unsafe riding condition.

When installing the carburetor into the carburetorclamp, align the projection of the carburetor withgroove in the carburetor clamp.

Tighten the clamp screw securely.

A. Carburetor ProjectionB. Clamp GrooveC. Screw

Install the rear frame. In this process, insert the projection of the carbu-

retor into the groove provided on the air cleanerduct clamp.

Tighten the clamp screw securely.


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A. Carburetor Projection

B. Duct GrooveC. Screw

Route the carburetor air vent and overflow hosesproperly.

Connect the fuel hose to the fuel tap. Insert the tab on the side cover into the slot in the

air cleaner case.

Install the side cover.

A. Tabs

B. SlotsC. Side Cover

Turn the fuel tap lever to the ON position, andcheck for fuel leakage from the carburetor.

WARNING

Gasoline is extremely flammable and can beexplosive under certain conditions.Always stop the engine and do not smoke.Make sure the area is well-ventilated and freefrom any source of flame or sparks; this in-cludes any appliance with a pilot light.

Open and close the throttle a few times to makesure the grip operates correctly.

Adjust the throttle cable play and idling speed.


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Clutch

Clutch Lever AdjustmentProper clutch lever play is 8 13 mm (0.3 0.5 in.).

Lever play increases with cable stretch and frictionplate wear, requiring periodic adjustment.

When the clutch lever play is out of specification,first try adjusting it at the clutch lever as follows.

Turn the adjuster to obtain the proper amount ofclutch lever play.

A. Clutch LeverB. AdjusterC. 8 13 mm (0.3 0.5 in.)

If the clutch lever play cannot be adjusted at theclutch lever, make the adjustment further down thecable as follows.

Turn the adjuster in all the way. Loosen the locknut in the middle of the clutch ca-

ble, and turn the adjusting nut so that the clutchlever play is 8 13 mm (0.3 0.5 in.).

A. Adjusting NutB. Locknut

Tighten the locknut.

WARNING

Be sure the upper end of the clutch outer ca-ble is fully seated in its fitting, or it could slipinto place later, creating enough cable play toprevent clutch disengagement, resulting in ahazardous riding condition.


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NOTE

After the adjustment is made, start the engine andcheck that the clutch does not slip and that it re-leases properly.

Friction Plate Removal Drain the engine oil. (see the Engine Oil" sec-tion).

Remove the clutch cover mounting bolts.NOTE

Unscrew the lowest clutch cover mounting boltwith the brake pedal pushed down.

A. BoltsB. Clutch CoverC. Brake Pedal

Remove the clutch cover and gasket.

Remove the clutch spring bolts, clutch pressureplate and springs.

A. Clutch Spring BoltsB. Clutch Pressure Plate

Remove the friction and steel plates.Friction and Steel Plate Wear/Damage

Inspection

Visually inspect the friction and steel plates to seeif they show any signs of seizure, or uneven wear.

If any plates show signs of damage, replace allfriction plates and steel plates as a set.

Measure the thickness of the friction and steelplates with vernier calipers.If they have worn past the service limit, replacethem with new ones.


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Friction Plate Thickness Measurement

Standard2.72 2.88 mm(0.1071 0.1134 in.)

Service Limit 2.6 mm (0.102 in.)

Steel Plate Thickness Measurement

Standard1.5 1.7 mm(0.0591 0.0669 in.)


A. ThicknessB. Friction Plate

Friction and Steel Plate Warp Inspection

Place each friction plate and steel plate on a sur-face plate, and measure the amount of friction

plate and steel plate warp with a thickness gauge(i.e., the gap between the surface plate and eachfriction plate or steel plate).

If any plate is warped over the service limit, re-place it with a new one.

Friction and Steel Plate Warp

StandardMaximum 0.15 mm(0.006 in.)Friction

PlateService Limit 0.3 mm (0.012 in.)

StandardMaximum 0.15 mm(0.006 in.)Steel Plate


A. Surface PlateB. Friction or Steel PlateC. Thickness Gauge


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Friction and Steel Plate Installation

Install all parts in the reverse order of removal. Install the friction plates and steel plates, alternat-

ing between the two; be sure to start and finishwith a friction plate.

A. Friction and Steel Plates

CAUTION

If dry steel plates and friction plates are in-

stalled, apply engine oil to the surfaces ofeach plate to avoid clutch plate seizure.

Apply molybdenum disulfide grease to the contactarea of the push rod holder.

Install the push rod holder together with the steelball into the push rod.

A. Molybdenum Disulfide Grease

B. Push Rod HolderC. Push RodD. Steel Ball

Install the clutch pressure plate and springs. Tighten the clutch spring bolts to the specified

torque.

Clutch Spring Bolt Tightening Torque

9.8 Nm (1.0 kgfm, 87 inlb)

Check the release shaft lever position by measur-ing the position distance between the lever and thecable bracket while pushing the release shaft leverlightly forward.


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A. Release Shaft Lever

B. Push forwardC. Position DistanceD. Cable Bracket

If the lever position is not within the standard, se-lect the correct thickness of adjusting washer ac-cording to the following table.

Remove the push rod holder assembly as neces-sary and reinstall the clutch.

A. Adjusting Washer

B. Needle BearingC. Push Rod Holder Assembly

Adjusting Washer

Thickness Part Number

1.5 mm (0.06 in.) 92200-1548

1.0 mm (0.04 in.) 92200-0045


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Release Shaft Lever Position and adjustingWasher Selection

PositionDistance

Judg-ment

Wash-ers Thick-ness

Quantity

49.2 mm

56.5mm (1.94 2.22in.)

Standard1.5 mm(0.06 in.).

1

More than 56.5mm (2.22 in.)

Too big1.0 mm(0.04 in.).

1

Less than 49.2mm (1.94 in.)

Too small1.0 mm(0.04 in.).

2

Place a new clutch cover gasket in position with athin layer of grease and tighten the bolts.

Install the parts removed. Check the engine oil level.

Hot Starter Cable

Proper hot starter lever play between the hotstarter lever and holder is 0.5 1 mm (0.02 0.04in.). Lever play increases with cable stretch, andrequires periodic adjustment.

Slide the clutch lever dust cover back. Check the hot starter lever play when pulling it

lightly, and if its play is out of specification, adjustthe lever play.

Loosen the locknut, turn the adjuster to obtain theproper hot starter lever play, then tighten the lock-nut.

A. Hot Starter LeverB. AdjusterC. LocknutD. 0.5 1 mm (0.02 0.04 in.)


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Valve Clearance

Valve and valve seat wear decreases valve clear-ance, upsetting valve timing.

CAUTIONIf valve clearance is left unadjusted, wear willeventually cause the valves to remain partlyopen, which lowers performances, burns thevalves and valve seats, and may cause seri-ous engine damage.

Valve clearance for each valve should be checkedand adjusted in accordance with the Periodic Main-

tenance Chart.

NOTE

If the engine is hot, wait until the engine cools.Valve clearance must be checked when the en-gine is cold (room temperature).

Valve Clearance Inspection

Turn the fuel tap lever to the OFF position.

Remove the seat and left and right side covers. Remove the fuel tank mounting bolt and left andright radiator cover mounting bolts.

Unhook the rubber band, and disconnect the fuelhose from the fuel tap.

Remove the fuel tank together with left and rightradiator covers.

A. BoltB. Radiator CoverC. Fuel TankD. Rubber Band

Remove the spark plug cap.

Clean the surface around the spark plug cap and

the cylinder head cover.


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A. Spark Plug Cap

Remove the cylinder head cover bolts and take offthe cylinder head cover.

A. Cylinder Head Cover Bolts

B. Cylinder Head Cover

Remove the head cover gasket.

A. Head Cover Gasket


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Remove the two caps from the generator cover.

A. Caps

Bring the piston to the Top Dead Center (TDC) ofits compression stroke to inspect the valve clear-ance (the position at the end of the compressionstroke) by aligning the top mark with the grooveon the generator cover while turning the rotor boltcounterclockwise.

A. Ignition Timing Mark

B. Top MarkC. Groove on Alternator Cover

NOTE

Do not mistake the top mark for ignition timingmark.

At this point, the timing marks on the camshaftsprockets must be almost aligned with the cylinderhead upper surface as shown in the figure.


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A. Timing Marks

B. Camshaft SprocketsC. Cylinder Head Upper Surface

Using the thickness gauge, measuring the clear-ance between each cam lobe and valve lifter, forall four valves.

NOTE

Record the measured valves clearance.

A. Thickness Gauge

Standard Valve Clearance (Between cam andvalve lifter)

Exhaust 0.17 0.22 mm (0.0067 0.0087 in.)

Inlet 0.10 0.15 mm (0.0039 0.0059 in.)

If the valve clearance is not within the specifiedrange, adjust by an authorized Kawasaki dealer ora competent mechanic following the instructions in

the Service Manual.

Cylinder Head Cover Installation

Apply the silicone sealant to the new cylinder headcover gasket as shown in the figure and installthe new cylinder head cover gasket to the cylinderhead.


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A. Apply Silicone Sealant.

B. Cylinder Head Cover Gasket

Make sure that the upper chain guide is bottomedto the cylinder head cover.

A. Upper Chain Guide

B. Cylinder Head Cover

CAUTION

Unless the upper chain guide is bottomed,the camshaft chain could push the cylinderhead cover upward, leading to an oil leak.

Install the cylinder head cover.

Install the washer with the metal side upwards to

the cylinder head cover, and tighten the bolts tothe specified torque.

Cylinder Head Cover Bolt Tightening Torque

9.8 Nm (1.0 kgfm, 87 inlb)

Install the two caps to the generator cover. Install the spark plug cap and the parts removed.


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Exhaust System

The exhaust system, in particular the silencer, isdesigned to reduce exhaust noise and conduct theexhaust gases away from the rider while minimizingpower loss. If carbon has built up inside the silencer,exhaust efficiency is reduced, causing engine per-formance to drop.

If the silencer is badly damaged, dented, crackedor rusted, replace it. Replace the silencer packing ifthe exhaust noise becomes too loud or engine per-formance drops.

Silencer Packing Replacement

Remove the right side cover.

Remove the silencer bolts, and loosen the jointclamp bolt.

Pull out the silencer pipe from the exhaust pipe. Remove the silencer cover bolts and pull the si-

lencer pipe out.

NOTE

When replacing the silencer packing assembly,first insert the silencer packing assembly into the

silencer cover, and align the exhaust hole of thesilencer end cover with the silencer packing as-sembly hole while turning the packing assembly.Then, install the silencer pipe by pushing the si-lencer pipe into the silencer cover with aligning thesilencer pipe with the exhaust hole.

A. Silencer Bolts

B. Silencer Cover BoltsC. SilencerD. Joint Clamp Bolt

Remove the old silencer packing.


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A. Silencer Pipe

B. Silencer CoverC. Silencer Packing

Put new silencer packing over the silencer pipe.

A. Silencer Pipe

B. Silencer Packing

Install the silencer pipe into the silencer cover. Apply silicone sealant so that no gaps are left be-

tween the silencer pipe and silencer cover.


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A. Silencer Pipe

B. Silencer CoverC. Silicone Sealant

Tighten the silencer cover bolts to the specifiedtorque.

Silencer Cover Bolt Tightening Torque

12 Nm (1.2 kgfm, 106 inlb)

Tighten the silencer bolts to the specified torque.

Silencer Bolts Tightening Torque21 Nm (2.1 kgfm, 15 ftlb)

Install the right side cover.

Drive Chain

For safety and to prevent excessive wear, the drivechain must be checked, adjusted, and lubricated be-fore riding. If the chain becomes badly worn or mal-adjusted - either too loose or too tight - it could jumpoff the sprockets or break.

WARNING

A chain that breaks or jumps off the sprock-ets could snag on the engine sprocket or lockthe rear wheel, severely damaging the motor-cycle and causing it to go out of control.

Chain Slack Inspection

Raise the rear wheel off the ground, then rotatethe rear wheel to find the place where the chain istightest (because it wears unevenly).

Push up the drive chain in the middle of the upperchain run to measure the chain slack. The dis-tance between the chain and the swingarm (at theend of the chain slipper) should be within the stan-dard value.

Drive Chain Slack

Standard 52 58 mm (2.0 2.3 in.)

Adjust the drive chain if its slack is out of specifi-cation.


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A. Chain Slack

In addition to checking the slack, rotate the rearwheel to inspect the drive chain for damagedrollers, loose pins and links and the sprocketsfor unevenly or excessively worn and damagedteeth.

If there are any such defects, replace the drivechain and/or the sprockets.

Chain Slack Adjustment

Remove the cotter pin from the rear axle nut.

Loosen the rear axle nut and both chain adjusterlocknuts.

Turn both chain adjusting bolts evenly until thedrive chain slack (measured between the chainand the swingarm) is within the standard value.For the rear wheel to be properly aligned, the

notch of the right chain adjuster should align withthe same swingarm mark that the notch of the leftchain adjuster aligns with.

Drive Chain Slack

52 58 mm (2.0 2.3 in.)

A. Axle NutB. Adjusting BoltC. LocknutD. Marks

E. NotchF. Cotter pin

NOTE

Wheel alignment can also be checked using thestraightedge or string method.

71


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WARNING

Misalignment of the wheel will result in ab-normal wear and possibly in an unsafe ridingcondition.

Tighten both chain adjuster locknuts. Torque the axle nut to the specified torque.Rear Axle Nut Tightening Torque

110 Nm (11.0 kgfm, 81 ftlb)

Rotate the wheel, measure the chain slack againat the tightest position, and readjust it if necessary.

Install a new cotter pin through the axle nut andaxle, and spread its ends.

A. Cotter Pin

NOTE

When inserting the cotter pin, if the slots in thenut do not align with the cotter pin hole in theaxle shaft, tighten the nut clockwise up to the nextalignment.

It should be within 30 degree.Loosen once and tighten again when the slot goespast the nearest hole.

A. Turning Clockwise

WARNING

If the axle nut is not securely tightened or thecotter pin is not installed, an unsafe ridingcondition may result.

Check the rear brake effect.

72 C S


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NOTE

When riding in wet and muddy conditions, mudsticks to the chain and sprockets, resulting in anoverly tight chain, which can cause it to break.To prevent this, adjust the chain slack (measured

between the chain and the swingarm) to 62

68mm (2.4 2.7 in.).

Chain Wear InspectionWhen the chain has reached its wear limit (i.e.,

when it has stretched by 2% of its original length),it is no longer safe for use and should be replaced.Since it is impractical to measure the entire length ofthe chain, determine the degree of wear by measur-ing a 20-link section of the chain.

Tighten the chain either by using the chain ad-justers or by hanging a 10 kg (20 lb) weight on thechain.

Measure the 20-link section on a straight part ofthe chain from the center of the 1st pin to the cen-ter of the 21st pin. If the length exceeds the ser-vice limit, the chain should be replaced. Sinceoverworn sprockets will cause a new chain to wearfaster, inspect both the engine and rear sprockets

whenever the chain is replaced, and replace themif necessary.

A. Weight

B. Tape Measure

Drive Chain 20-Link Section

Standard length 317.5 mm (12.5 in.)

Wear limit 323 mm (12.7 in.)

NOTE

The drive system was designed for use with a

DAIDO D.I.D 520DMA2 112-link chain. For maxi-mum stretch resistance and safety, a genuine partmust be used for replacement.

To minimize any chance of the Master Link comingapart, the master link clip must be installed withthe closed end of the U" pointing in the directionof chain rotation.



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A. Master Link Clip

B. Direction of Rotation

Chain Guide Wear Inspection

Visually inspect the drive chain guide and replaceit if excessively worn or damaged.

A. Chain Guide

Chain Slipper Wear Inspection

Visually inspect the upper and lower chain slipperson the swingarm and replace them if worn or dam-aged.



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A. Chain Slippers

B. Swingarm

Sprocket Wear Inspection

Visually inspect the sprocket teeth and replace thesprocket if its teeth are worn or damaged.

Sprocket Tooth Wear

A. Good TeethB. Worn TeethC. Damaged Teeth

NOTE

Sprocket wear is exaggerated in the illustration.

Chain LubricationLubrication of the drive chain is necessary after rid-

ing in the rain or mud, or any time the chain appearsdry. A heavy oil such as SAE90 is preferred to alighter oil because it will stay on the chain longer andprovide better lubrication.

Apply oil to the side of the rollers so that it willpenetrate to the rollers and bushings.

Wipe off any excess oil.



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Handlebar

To suit various riding positions, the handlebarcan be adjusted by turning the handlebar holdersaround.

Remove the handlebar pad. Check the handlebar for bent or crack. Remove the handlebar clamp bolts, the clamps

and the handlebar.

A. Handlebar ClampsB. BoltsC. Handlebar

Loosen the handlebar holder nuts, turn the han-dlebar holders 180, and securely tighten the nuts.



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A. Handlebar Holders

B. Handlebar Holder Nuts

Put the handlebar on the handlebar holders. Mount the handlebar clamps. Check that the gauge of the handlebar is out of the

left and right handlebar clamps equally.

A. Handlebar Clamps

B. Clamp BoltsC. Gap

Torque the front and rear bolts of the handlebarclamps to 25 Nm (2.5 kgfm, 18 ftlb) equally. Ifthe handlebar clamps are correctly installed, therewill be even gap on the front and rear side of theclamp after the bolts torqued.

Do not disassemble the supporting bar on the han-dlebar.

Handlebar Clamp Bolts Tightening Torque25 Nm (2.5 kgfm, 18 ftlb)

Check the front brake for proper brake effect orbrake hose damage.



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NOTE

Tighten the two clamp bolts alternately two timesto ensure even tightening torque.

Brakes

Disc and disc pad wear is automatically compen-sated for and has no effect on the brake lever orpedal action. There are no parts on the brakes that

require adjustment except brake lever position.

Brake Lever positionThe brake lever position can be adjusted to suit

the riders preference.

To adjust the brake lever position, loosen the lock-nut, and turn the adjuster to either side with awrench.

After adjustment, tighten the locknut securely.

A. Brake LeverB. AdjusterC. Locknut



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Test the braking power and check that there is nobrake drag.

WARNING

If the brake lever or pedal feels mushy, there

might be air in the brake lines or the brakemay be defective. Since it is dangerous tooperate the motorcycle under such condi-tions, have the brake checked immediately.

Disc Brake FluidInspect the brake fluid level in the front and rear

reservoirs and change the brake fluid in accordancewith the Periodic Maintenance Chart. The brake fluid

should also be changed when contaminated with dirtor water.

Use only heavy-duty brake fluid as follows.

Front brake fluid : DOT 3 or DOT 4

Rear brake fluid : DOT 4

NOTE

The motorcycle is shipped with brake fluid DOT4in the brake system.

CAUTION

Do not spill brake fluid onto any painted sur-face.Do not use fluid from a container that hasbeen left open or that has been unsealed for

a long time.Check for fluid leakage around the brake sys-tem fittings.Check for brake hose damage.

Brake Fluid Level Inspection (Front and RearReservoirs)With the front or rear reservoir positioned horizon-

tally, the brake fluid must always be above the mini-

mum level line.

A. Front ReservoirB. Minimum Level Line



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A. Rear Reservoir

B. Minimum Level Line

If the brake fluid in the front or rear reservoir is be-low the minimum level line, check for fluid leaksin the brake line and fill the reservoir to the maxi-mum level line. (The step inside the front and rearreservoirs indicate the maximum level.)

A. Front Reservoir

B. Maximum Level Line

A. Rear ReservoirB. Maximum Level Line



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WARNING

Do not mix two types or brands of brake fluid.If brake fluid is to be added but the fluid al-ready in the brake system is not identifiable,the entire fluid must be changed.

Brake Pad Wear InspectionInspect the brake pads for wear in accordance with

the Periodic Maintenance chart. If the thickness ofany pad in any (front or rear) brake caliper is lessthan 1 mm (0.04 in.), have both pads in the caliperreplaced as a set. Pad replacement should be doneby an authorized Kawasaki dealer.

Usable Brake Pad Range

A. Lining ThicknessB. 1 mm (0.04 in.)



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Steering

The steering should always be kept adjusted sothat the handlebar will turn freely but not have ex-cessive play.

Steering Inspection

To check the steering adjustment, raise the frontwheel off the ground using a jack (special tool).

Push the handlebar lightly to either side. If thehandlebar continues moving under its own mo-mentum, the steering is not too tight.

Squatting in front of the motorcycle, grasp thelower ends of the front fork at the axle, and pushand rock the front fork back and forth as shown.

If play is felt, the steering is too loose and needsto be adjusted.

Steering Adjustment

Raise the front wheel off the ground using a jack(special tool).

Remove the number plate. Remove the handlebar.

Loosen the upper front fork clamp bolts.

Remove the steering head nut, and raise the up-per front fork clamp.

A. Upper Front Fork Clamp BoltsB. Upper Front Fork Clamp

C. Steering Head Nut

Turn the steering stem locknut with a stem nutwrench (special tool) to obtain the proper adjust-ment.



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A. Stem Nut Wrench (P/N. 57001-1100)

B. Steering Stem Locknut

Install the upper front fork clamp to the originalposition.

Apply the specified torques to the steering headnut and upper front fork clamp bolts.

Steering Head Nut Tightening Torque

98 Nm (10.0 kgfm, 72 ftlb)

Upper Fork Clamp Bolt Tightening Torque20 Nm (2.0 kgfm, 15 ftlb)

NOTE


Install the handlebar, check the steering again andreadjust it if necessary.



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Front Suspension

Front Fork Inspection

Holding the brake lever, pump the front fork backand forth manually to check for smooth operation. Visually inspect the front fork for oil leakage, scor-ing or scratches on the outer surface of the innertube.

If necessary, repair or replace by an authorizedKawasaki dealer.

A. Inner Tube

CAUTION

If the inner tube is badly bent or creased,replace it. Excessive bending, followed bysubsequent straitening, can weaken the in-ner tube.

Any of the following front fork adjustments shouldbe made to tune the front suspension to the ridersweight and the condition of the track.

Basically, there are six adjustments you can maketo the front fork.

Air PressureAir pressure acts as a progressive spring over the

entire fork travel range. Since the air pressure in thefork legs increases with normal use, the fork action

on your KX will get stiffer as the race progresses.Therefore, it is not recommended to increase the airpressure for additional springing. The KX forks aredesigned to function without added air.

Rebound Damping AdjustmentThis adjustment affects how quickly the fork re-

bounds. Depending on the model, the fork rebounddamping adjuster has at least 20 positions. The fullyseated position (adjuster turned fully clockwise) isthe hardest setting. Turning the adjuster 11 clickscounterclockwise from the fully seated position is thestandard setting, turning it counterclockwise 20 ormore clicks (depending on the model) is the softestsetting.

Compression Damping Adjustment



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This adjustment affects how quickly the fork com-presses. Depending on the model, the fork com-pression damping adjuster has at least 22 positions.The fully seated position (adjuster turned fully clock-wise) is the hardest setting. Turning the adjuster 8clicks counterclockwise from the fully seated posi-

tion is the standard setting, turning it counterclock-wise 22 or more clicks (depending on the model) isthe softest setting.

Fork Oil Level AdjustmentThe fork oil level affects only the final 100 mm (4

in.) of fork travel. A higher oil level will make the forkrebound more quickly. A lower oil level will make thefork rebound more slowly.

Fork SpringsOptional springs, softer and stiffer than standard,are available.

Fork Clamp PositionSteering is greatly affected by the fork clamp posi-

tion (how much the outer fork tubes protrude abovethe upper fork clamp). The less the fork tube pro-trudes, the lighter the front end becomes and thegreater the tendency for understeering and washoutdue to weight biasing. Increasing the amount of forktube protrusion has opposite effects. Be sure that

the front tire does not touch the fender when the forkis fully compressed. Make this adjustment in 7 mm(0.28 in.) steps.

CAUTION

The right and left fork tubes must be adjustedevenly.

Air Pressure AdjustmentThe standard air pressure in the front fork legs is

atmospheric (0 kPa, 0 kgf/cm, 0 ftlb). Air pressurein the fork legs increase with normal use, so the forkaction stiffens during operation. Release air pres-sure from the fork legs prior to each race through the

pressure relief screw located in each front fork basevalve assembly. Make sure the front forks are fullyextended with the front wheel off the ground whenreleasing the pressure.

Raise the front wheel off the ground using a jack(special tool).

Remove the screw on each front fork base valveassembly to let the air pressure equalize. Then,reinstall the screws.

A. Air Pressure Relief Screw



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Compression Damping Adjustment

To adjust the compression damping, turn the ad-juster on each front fork base valve assembly witha flat-head screwdriver. Adjust the compressiondamping to suit your preference under certain con-ditions.

CAUTION

Do not force the rebound and compressiondamping force adjusters beyond the fullyseated position, or the adjusting mechanismmay be damaged.

A. Compression Damping Force Adjuster

Compression Damping Adjuster Settings

A. Seated Position (Adjuster Turned FullyClockwise)

B. Softer (Counterclockwise)C. Harder (Clockwise)D. Standard Setting

*: Number of turns counterclockwise usable range-22 clicks or more.

Standard Compression Damping AdjusterSetting

9 clicks *

* Counterclockwise from the fully seated position

CAUTION




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Rebound Damping Adjustment

Clean the bottom of the fork tubes. To adjust the rebound damping, turn the adjuster

on the each front fork cylinder valve with a flat-head screwdriver. Adjust the rebound dampingto suit your preference under certain conditions.

CAUTION


A. Rebound Damping Force Adjuster

Rebound Damping Adjuster Settings



*: Number of turns counterclockwise usable range-20 clicks or more.

Standard Rebound Damping Adjuster Setting

11 clicks *

* Counterclockwise from the fully seated position

CAUTION




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Install the caps on the bottom of the fork tubes.Front Fork Oil Change

Thoroughly clean the fork before disassembly.CAUTION

Be careful not to scratch the inner tube andnot to damage the dust seal.Avoid scratching or damaging the inner tubeor the dust seal. Use a mild detergent andsponge out dirt with plenty of water.

Loosen the front fork upper clamp bolts.NOTE

Set the rebound and compression damping set-

ting to the softest settings before disassembly toprevent the needle of adjusters from damping.Record the setting before turning the adjuster.

Loosen the front fork cylinder unit with the top plugwrench (special tool).

NOTE

Do not take off the base valve assembly.

A. Front Fork Top PlugB. Top Plug Wrench (P.N. 57001-1645)



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Support the motorcycle using a jack (special tool). Unscrew the front axle nut, and then loosen the

left front axle clamp bolts.

Remove the brake caliper from the fork leg to beremoved, and rest the caliper on some kind ofstand so that it does not dangle.

Insert the wood wedge between the disc brakepads. This prevents them from being moved out oftheir proper position, if the brake lever is squeezedaccidentally.

Remove the brake hose holder and fork protector.

A. Front Axle NutB. Left Front Axle Clamp Bolts (Loosen)C. Brake CaliperD. Brake Hose HolderE. Fork ProtectorF. Bolt

Loosen the right front axle clamp bolts. Place a suitable stand under the engine to raise

the front wheel off the ground.

Remove the axle, and pull out the wheel. Take offthe collar and cap from each side of the front hub.

CAUTIONDo not lay the wheel on the ground with thedisc facing down. This can damage or warpthe disc. Place blocks under the wheel so thedisc does not touch the ground.

A. Right Front Axle Clamp BoltsB. AxleC. CollarD. Cap

Loosen the front fork lower clamp bolts.



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A. Upper Front Fork Clamp Bolts

B. Lower Front Fork Clamp Bolts

Remove the front fork by pulling down while twist-ing it.

A. Pull down by twisting.

B. Front Fork

Measure the length between the axle holder andouter tube and record it before disassembling thefork.

Standard Length317 321 mm (12.56 12.64in.)



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A. Measure the length

Using the top plug wrench (special tool), removethe fork cylinder unit from the outer tube and slowlyslide down the outer tube.

A. Top Plug Wrench (P.N. 57001-1645)

B. Fork Cylinder UnitC. Outer Tube

Place a drain pan under the front fork and drainfork oil.

NOTE

Pump the outer tube several times to dischargethe fork oil.



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A. Fork Oil

Raise the outer tube and temporarily install thefork cylinder unit to the outer tube using the topplug wrench (special tool).

A. Fork Cylinder Unit

B. Outer TubeC. Top Plug Wrench (P.N. 57001-1645)

Hold the axle holder with a vise.WARNING

Clamping the axle holder too tight can dam-age it which will affect riding stability.Do not clamp the axle holder too tight.

NOTEProtect the axle holder with a soft jaw or heavy

cloth when using a vise.

Loosen the adjuster assembly completely.



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NOTE

When removing the adjuster assembly, do notforce to loosen it at once using an impact wrench.

A. Axle Holder PartB. Adjuster Assembly

Compress the outer tube by hands and install thetop plug wrench (special tool) between the axleholder bottom and locknut.

WARNINGBe careful of reaction force in spring andfix surely so that the special tool should notcome off. Do not place the finger etc. Whileservicing.


B. Axle Holder BottomC. Locknut

Hold the locknut with a wrench and remove theadjuster assembly.

NOTE

Do not remove the locknut from the piston rod.The piston rod may slide into the inner tube.



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A. LocknutB. WrenchC. Adjuster Assembly

Remove the push rod.

A. Push Rod

With the outer tube compressed by hand, removethe top plug wrench (special tool).CAUTION

Removing the locknut and pushing the pis-ton rod thread into the cylinder unit will dam-age the oil seal. Do not remove the locknutfrom the piston rod.Be careful of reaction force from the fork

spring when removing the top plug wrench.Hold the piston rod tight enough so that thelocknut does not damage the fork leg.



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Remove the fork leg from the vise. Loosen the fork cylinder unit with the top plugwrench (special tool).

A. Fork Cylinder UnitB. Outer TubeC. Top Plug Wrench (P.N. 57001-1645)

Remove the fork cylinder unit and fork spring fromthe outer tube.



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A. Cylinder UnitB. Fork SpringC. Piston Rod

Holding the top plug wrench (special tool) with avise, loosen the base valve assembly on the forkcylinder unit.

A. Top Plug Wrench (P.N. 57001-1645)B. Base Valve AssemblyC. Fork Cylinder Unit

Remove the base valve assembly from the forkcylinder unit.

CAUTION

Be careful not to damage the bushing of thebase valve.



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A. Base Valve AssemblyB. Fork Cylinder Unit

NOTE

Slowly compress the piston rod until it stops sothat the base valve assembly can be removedeasily.

CAUTION

Disassembling the base valve assembly can

lead to trouble. Do not disassemble the basevalve assembly.

Drain the fork oil from the fork cylinder unit bypumping the piston rod several times.

A. Fork OilB. Fork Cylinder Unit

Hold the front fork at the inverted position for morethan 20 minutes to allow the fork oil to fully drain.



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Clean the threads of fork cylinder unit and basevalve assembly.

A. Threads

With the piston rod fully stretched, pour 180 mL(6.19 US oz.) of fork oil.

NOTE

Plug the two oil holes on the cylinder unit with fin-gers.

A. Fork oilB. Oil HolesC. Fork Cylinder UnitD. Piston Rod

Recommended Fork Oil

SHOWA SS-05 or equivalent

Pump the piston rod slowly several times to expelair.



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A. Pump the Piston.B. Piston Rod

With the piston rod fully stretched, check the oillevel in the fork cylinder unit.

Oil Level

42 49 mm (1.65 1.93 in.)

NOTE

Measure the oil level using a gauge as shown in

the figure.

A. 42 49 mm (1.65 1.93 in.)B. Oil Level

Replace the O-ring on the base valve assemblywith new ones.

Apply specified fork oil to the O-rings and bushingson the base valve assembly.

CAUTION

Do not damage the bushings when assem-bling the base valve.



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A. O-ringsB. Bushings

With the piston rod held immovable fully stretched,gently install the base valve assembly to the forkcylinder unit.

NOTE

If there is difficulty in assembling the base valve,it may be because the oil level is too high. Checkthe oil level in the fork cylinder unit.

A. Base Valve Assembly

Hold the top plug wrench (special tool) with a vise. Holding the fork cylinder unit with the top plugwrench (special tool), torque the base valve as-sembly.



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A. Top Plug Wrench (P.N. 57001-1645)B. Base Valve AssemblyC. Fork Cylinder Unit

Base Valve Assembly Tightening Torque

30 Nm (3.1 kgfm, 22 ftlb)

NOTE

Check if the locknut is completely screwed on tothe piston rod.

Protect the piston rod end with a heavy cloth toprevent piston rod thread damage. Hold the cylinder unit at the up right position and

slowly pump the piston rod several times about100 mm.

Discharge the extra oil off the cylinder unit bypumping the piston rod to full stroke.

CAUTION

Be careful not to bend or damage the pis-ton rod when the piston rod is stroked. Ser-vice carefully because oil flies out from theoil hole of the cylinder unit.

A. Piston Rod EndB. Heavy ClothC. Pump the Piston

NOTESet the compression damping force setting to the

softest. Check the piston rod sliding surface fordamage. Apply fork oil to the piston rod slidingsurface.

Drain the extra oil from the cylinder unit oil hole.



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Blow out the extra oil from the oil hole of the cylin-der unit with the compressed air blow to the oilhole.

Wipe the oil off completely from the fork cylinderunit.

If you cannot use compressed air, remove thepressure relief screw on the fork cap.Up side down the fork damper for 10 minutes anddrain the oil from the cylinder unit. Reinstall andtighten the pressure relief screw.

A. Oil Hole

Protect the piston rod end with a heavy cloth toprevent damage.

Pump the piston rod to full stroke by pushing downthe fork cylinder unit.

Check the piston rod for smooth operation. If the piston rod operation is not smooth, check the

piston rod for bend or damage.

Hold the fork cylinder unit on level ground whilepiston rod is full stroked by your hand.

Release the piston rod then check the piston rodextend to maximum.

If the piston rod does not extend to maximum,bleed the cylinder unit again.

CAUTION

Be careful not to bend or damage the pistonrod when the piston rod is stroked.

Wipe the oil off completely from the cylinder unit. Compress the piston rod to 200 250 mm (7.9

9.8 in.) and hold the cylinder unit upright positionfor 10 minutes.

A. Cylinder UnitB. Piston RodC. 200 250 mm (7.9 9.8 in.)



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There should be no oil leak from the cylinder unit. If oil leaks from the cylinder unit, replace the cylin-

der unit assembly.

Hold the cylinder unit on level ground and releasethe piston rod then check the piston rod extend tomaximum.

Tighten the locknut fully and measure 10 12 mm(0.39 0.47 in.) as shown.

A. 10 12 mm (0.39 0.47 in.)B. Locknut

Completely wipe off the fork oil from the spring andfork cylinder unit.

Insert above-mentioned parts into the fork.

A. Fork Cylinder UnitB. Fork Spring

Temporarily tighten the fork cylinder unit using thetop plug wrench (special tool).



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Clamp the axle holder with a vise.NOTE

Protect the axle holder with a soft jaw or heavycloth when using a vise.

WARNING

Clamping the axle holder too tight can dam-age it which will affect riding stability.Do not clamp the axle holder too tight.

Compress the outer tube by hands and install thetop plug wrench (special tool) between the axleholder bottom and locknut.

WARNING

Be careful of reaction force in spring and fixsurely so that special tool should not comeoff.Do not place the fingers etc. while serving.


Insert the push rod into the piston rod.NOTE

Check the push rod installation with its click byturning the push rod right and left.



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A. Push Rod

Replace the O-ring on the adjuster assembly withnew ones and apply specified fork oil to the O-ring. Slowly turn the adjuster assembly clockwise until

resistance is felt and check the clearance betweenthe locknut and adjuster assembly for more than 1mm (0.04 in.).

A. Adjuster AssemblyB. LocknutC. More Than 1 mm (0.04 in.)

Turn the locknut counterclockwise until it contactswith the adjuster assembly.

With the locknut held immovable using a wrench,tighten the adjuster assembly to the specifiedtorque.

Locknut/Adjuster Assembly Tightening Torque




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A. LocknutB. WrenchC. Adjuster AssemblyD. Torque Wrench

With the outer tube compressed by hands, removethe top plug wrench (special tool).

Apply a non-permanent locking agent and torquethe adjuster assembly to the specified torque.

Adjuster Assembly Tightening Torque

69 Nm (7.0 kgfm, 50.9 ftlb)

A. Axle Holder PartB. Adjuster AssemblyC. Torque Wrench

Compare the length at assembly and at disassem-bly. There should be same length.

If the length at assembly is longer than at disas-sembly, check the adjuster assembly and locknutinstallation.

Standard

317 321 mm (12.56 12.64 in.)

Using the top plug wrench (special tool), removethe fork cylinder unit from the outer tube and slowlyslide down the outer tube.



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A. Top Plug Wrench (P.N. 57001-1645)B. Fork Cylinder UnitC. Outer Tube

Pour the specified amount of fork oil into the outertube.

A. Outer TubeB. Fork Oil

CAUTION

Be sure the oil capacity is the same in bothfork legs.

Recommended Fork Oil

SHOWA SS-05 or equivalent

Standard Fork Oil Quantity

Fork Spring 4.5 Nmm (0.45 kgfmm)

Fork Oil Quantity 361 mL (12.2 US oz.)

Adjustable Range319 415 mL (10.8 14.0 USoz.)



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When changing the fork spring, the oil quantity isas shown in the table.

Standard OilQuantity

371 ml(12.5 US oz.)

SOFT(K = 4.3 Nmm) Adjustable

Range

316 412 ml

(10.7

13.9 USoz.)

Standard OilQuantity

377 ml(12.7 US oz.)

HARD(K = 4.7 Nmm) Adjustable

Range

322 418 ml(10.8 14.1 USoz.)

Raise the outer tube and temporarily install thefork cylinder unit to the outer tube using the topplug wrench (special tool).


Insert the front fork to the motorcycle. Tighten the front fork lower clamp bolts to the

specified torque.

Front Fork Lower Clamp Bolts Tightening Torque


Tighten the fork cylinder unit using the top plugwrench (special tool) to the specified torque.



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A. Fork Cylinder UnitB. Top Plug Wrench (P.N. 57001-1645)

Fork Cylinder Unit Tightening Torque


NOTE

The torque of fork cylinder unit is specified to34 Nm (3.5 kgfm, 25 ftlb) however, when youuse the top plug wrench (special tool), reduce

the torque to 90% of the specified value [31 Nm(3.1 kgfm, 23 ftlb)] due to the distance betweenthe center of the square hole, where the torquewrench is fitted, and that of the octagonal hole ofthe wrench.

This torque value [31 Nm (3.1 kgfm, 23 ftlb)] isapplicable when you use a torque wrench whoselength gives leverage of approximately 310 mm

(12.2 in.) between the grip point to the center ofthe coupling square.

Tighten the front fork upper clamp bolts to thespecified torque.

Front Fork Upper Clamp Bolts Tightening Torque


A. Top Plug Wrench (P.N. 57001-1645)B. Distance

Install the brake caliper to the fork leg, and tightenthe brake caliper bolts to the specified torque.Brake Caliper Bolts Tightening Torque


Take out wood wedge between the disc brakepads.



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Apply grease to the oil seals of the wheel. Install the caps and collars on the left and right

side of the hub.

Put the front wheel assembly between the forklegs, and insert the front brake disc into the frontbrake pads.

Insert the front axle from the right side of the mo-torcycle. Tighten the front axle nut to the specified torque.Front Axle Nut Tightening Torque


Tighten the left front axle clamp bolt to the speci-fied torque.

Left Front Axle Clamp Bolt Tightening Torque


A. CollarsB. Caps

C. AxleD. Right Front Axle Clamp BoltsE. Axle NutF. Left Front Axle Clamp BoltsG. Oil Seal

NOTE


Remove the jack and stand supporting the motor-cycle. Install the parts removed. Before tightening the clamp bolts on the right fork

leg, loosen the right front axle clamp bolts, andpump the forks up and down 4 or 5 times to allow



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the right fork leg to find a neutral position on thefront axle.

NOTE

Do not apply the front brake during this processto stop the motorcycle from rolling forward. Put a

block in front of the wheel to stop it from moving.

A. Pump the forks up and DownB. Block

Tighten the right axle clamp bolts to the specified

torque.

NOTE


Right Front Axle Clamp Bolt Tightening Torque


WARNING

Do not attempt to ride the motorcycle un-

til a full brake lever is obtained by pumpingthe brake lever until the pads are against thedisc. The brake will not function on the firstapplication of the lever if this is not done.

Set the damping adjuster to the position recordedbefore removing the front fork.

Optional Fork SpringsVarious fork springs are available to achieve suit-

able front fork action in accordance with the ridersweight and track condition.

Harder springs stiffen the fork action and acceler-ate the rebound damping.

Softer springs soften the fork action and slow downthe rebound damping.

Fork Clamp PositionSteering is greatly affected by the fork clamp posi-

tion (how much the outer fork tubes protrude above

the upper fork clamp). Install the fork tubes to thestandard fork position.

CAUTION




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A. Standard Fork Clamp Position

Standard Fork Clamp Position

7 mm (0.28 in.)*

* below the surface of the top plug

NOTE


Rear Suspension (UNI-TRAK)

This motorcycles rear suspension system is calledUNI-TRAK" and consists of a rear shock absorberunit, a swingarm, two lever rods and a lever.

The operating characteristics of the UNI-TRAK

suspension are similar to those of the front fork.However, a linkage system is used to achieve pro-gressive springing characteristics.

Rear Shock Absorber Inspection

Pump the seat down and up by 4 or 5 times, andinspect the smooth stroke.

If it does not smoothly or noise is found, inspectthe oil leak and rear shock absorber mounting.

Visually inspect the rear shock absorber for oilleakage. If necessary, repair or replace by an authorized

Kawasaki dealer.

Rear Shock Absorber AdjustmentThe spring preload of the shock absorber can be

adjusted or the spring can be replaced with an op-tional one to suit various riding conditions. In addi-tion, the damping force can be adjusted easily, mak-

ing it unnecessary to change the oil viscosity.

Rebound Damping AdjustmentTo adjust the rear shock absorber rebound damp-

ing, turn the rebound damping adjuster at the bottomof the rear shock absorber with a flat-head screw-driver.



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A. Rebound Damping Adjuster

If the damping feels too soft or too stiff, adjust it inaccordance with the following table.

Rebound Damping Adjuster Settings



* Number of turns counterclockwise usable range-22clicks or more

Standard Rebound Damping Adjuster Setting

12th Clicks*

*Counterclockwise from the fully seated position


CAUTION


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CAUTION


NOTE

Adjustment of the rebound damping adjuster forthe rear suspension will slightly affect the com-pression damping force. Always make any damp-ing adjustments in small steps and test their ef-fects before using them in competition.

Compression Damping Adjustment (Gas

Reservoir)There are two adjustments you can make to therear shock absorber gas reservoir.

To adjust the high speed compression damping,turn the high speed compression damping adjuster.

To adjust the low speed compression damping turnthe low speed compression damping adjuster with aflat head screwdriver.

If the damping feels too soft or too stiff, adjust it inaccordance with the following table.

A. Compression Damping Adjuster for High SpeedB. Compression Damping Adjuster for Low Speed

High Speed Compression Damping AdjusterSettings.

0 4 turns out

If the damper setting feels too soft or too stiff, ad-just it in accordance with the following table.


L S d C i D i Adj t CAUTION


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Low Speed Compression Damping AdjusterSettings



* Number of turns counterclockwise usable range-19clicks or more

Standard Compression Damping Adjuster

SettingHigh speed Low speed

2 1/4 turns out* 12 clicks*

CAUTION


NOTE

Adjustment of the rebound damping adjuster forthe rear suspension will slightly affect the com-pression damping force. Always make any damp-ing adjustments in small steps and test their ef-fects before using them in competition.

Spring Preload Adjustment

Remove the rear frame together with the aircleaner case (see the Carburetor Removal sec-tion).

Raise the rear wheel off the ground using a jack(special tool).

Using the hook wrenches (special tool), loosen thelocknut on the rear shock absorber.



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A. Spring Preload Adjusting NutB. Locknut

C. Hook Wrenches (P.N. 57001-1103)

Using the hook wrench (special tool), turn thespring preload adjusting nut as required. Turn-ing the adjusting nut down increases the springpreload.

A. Hook Wrench (P.N. 57001-1103)B. Spring Preload Adjusting Nut

The standard adjusting nut position from the cen-ter of the upper rear shock absorber pivot point is130.6 mm (5.14 in.).

The adjustable range is as shown in the table be-low.


R Sh k Ti ht th l k t l


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Rear ShockAbsorber Spring

Adjustable Range

K = 47 Nmm (4.8 kgfm)125.8 139.3 mm(5.0 5.5 in.).

K = 49 Nmm (5.0 kgfm)125.8 135.8 mm

(5.0

5.3 in.).

K = 51 Nmm* (5.2 kgfm)125.8 133.8 mm(5.0 5.3 in.).

K = 53 Nmm (5.4 kgfm)125.8 139.5 mm(5.0 5.5 in.).

* : Standard

A. Adjusting Nut PositionB. LocknutC. Spring Preload Adjusting Nut

Tighten the locknut securely.Spring Preload Adjusting Nut Tightening Torque


After making the adjustment, move the spring upand down to make sure that it is properly seated.

Install the rear frame (see Carburetor Removalsection). Install the parts removed.Optional Rear Shock Absorber Springs

Various rear shock absorber springs are availableto achieve suitable rear shock absorber action in ac-cordance with the riders weight and track condition.

A harder spring stiffens the shock absorber actionand accelerates the rebound damping.

A softer spring softens the shock absorber actionand slows down the rebound damping.

WARNING

Improper removal or installation of the rearshock absorber spring may cause the springand/or related parts to be ejected at high ve-locity. Always wear eye and face protectionwhen working on the rear shock absorber.Removal and installation of the rear shockabsorber spring should be performed by anauthorized Kawasaki dealer.


WARNING


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WARNING

This unit contains high pressure nitrogengas. Mishandling can cause explosion.Read Service Manual for instructions.Do not incinerate, puncture or open.

Wheels

Tire Air Pressure Adjustable RangeTire air pressure affects traction, handling, and tire

life. Adjust the tire air pressure to suit track condi-tions and rider preference, but keep it close withinthe recommended range.

To check the tire air pressure, remove the air valvecap, and make sure to tighten the cap securelyafter checking the tire pressure.

Reduce the tire air pressure to increase the tiretread surface on the ground when riding on a wet,muddy, sandy or slippery track.

Increase the tire air pressure to prevent damageor punctures (though the tires will skid more easily)when riding on a pebbly or hard track.

Tire Air Pressure Adjustable Range

80 kPa (0.8 kgf/cm, 11 psi) 100 kPa (1.0kgf/cm, 14 psi)

NOTE

Tire air pressure should be checked when the tires

are cold, before you ride the motorcycle.


Spokes and Rims


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Spokes and RimsThe spokes on both wheels must all be securely

and evenly tightened and not be allowed to loosen.Unevenly tightened or loose spokes will cause therim to warp, the nipples and spokes to fatigue morequickly, and the spokes to break.

A. Spoke and Spark Plug Wrench

Bead ProtectorThere is a bead protector on the both wheels. The

bead protector prevents the tire and tube from slip-ping on the rim and damaging the valve stem. Valvestem damage may cause the tube to leak, necessi-tating tube replacement. In order to keep the tire andtube in position on the rim, inspect the bead protec-tor before riding and tighten it if necessary. Tightenthe valve stem nut finger tight only.

A. Bead Protector

Rim RunoutSet up a dial gauge on the side of the rim and

rotate the wheel to measure its axial runout. Thedifference between the highest and lowest readingsis the amount of runout.

Set up the dial gauge on the inner circumferenceof the rim and rotate the wheel to measure its ra-dial runout. The difference between the highestand lowest readings is the amount of runout.

A certain amount of rim warpage (runout) can becorrected by recentering the rim, that is, by loos-ening some spokes and tightening other to changethe position of certain portions of the rim. If the rimis badly bent, however, it should be replaced.


NOTE


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NOTE

The welding spot of the rim may show exces-sive runout. Disregard this when measuring rimrunout.

Rim Runout

A. RimB. Radial RunoutC. Axial Runout

Rim Runout Maximum Limit

AxialRadial

1.0 mm (0.04 in.)

A. Axial Rim Runout Measurement

A. Radial Rim Runout Measurement



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