Mouth-watering breaks in Emilia Romagna

Publishing project: APT Servizi Emilia RomagnaUnione di prodotto Appennino e VerdeUnione di prodotto Città d’arte, cultura, affariUnione di prodotto Costa

Concept & graphic design: Empresa Creativa

Texts: Lorenzo Frassoldati

Translation: Link up, Rimini

Photographs:Photo Archive of APT ServiziPhoto Archive of Unioni di prodotto Appennino e Verde - Città d’arte, cultura, affari - Costa.Photo Archive of the following provinces: Piacenza, Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena, Bologna, Ferrara, Ravenna, Forlì-Cesena, Rimini.

Printed in April 2010 by Labanti e Nanni Industrie Grafi che - Crespellano (Bologna)

Massimo Gottifredi

PresidentAPT Servizi Emilia-Romagna(Regional tourist board)

Andrea Babbi

Managing Director APT Servizi Emilia-Romagna

(Regional tourist board)

Simply delicious!

Intense fragrances and delicious fl avours. For all those who live in Emilia-Romagna, a region that enjoys an excellent quality of life, the culture of good food is synonymous with tradition, friendship and hospitality. To allow excellent balsamic vinegars, sweet hams and exquisite wines to “rest”, we have sacrifi ced hundreds of rooms, at times even entire farmhouses. It’s true that nature has given us fertile lands for growing wonderful products and perfect microclimates for curing and maturing them. However, the key to our success lies in the harmonious union between the work of man and the cycles of nature, between cultivation and production, between processing and distribution. Thanks to these wonderful synergies we have managed, over the centuries, to guarantee our children, Italy and the entire world excellent food and wine products. We are extremely jealous of these things, but have always shared them with friends, with guests, with everyone. That is why we have put together this small guide-book packed with suggestions for travels in our region discovering fantastic food and wine products to take home or give as gifts while staying in comfortable hotels or at relaxing holiday farms. We will show you ancient production techniques, teach you about wines and cheeses, take you to visit museums, cities and hills; you will become chefs and sommeliers and we will reveal all our treasures to you - from vintage cars to art collections. We look forward to meeting you, because we have something “special” for you to try.

Index2 Introduction

6 Map

8 Piacenza & surroundings

16 Parma & surroundings

24 Reggio Emilia & surroundings

32 Modena & surroundings

40 Bologna & surroundings

48 Ferrara & surroundings

56 Ravenna & surroundings

64 Forlì - Cesena & surroundings

72 Rimini & surroundings

80 Events calendar

Piacenza & surroundings

9 - Piacenza &

surroundings

s

•Coppa piacentina PDO•Grana Padano PDO•Pancetta piacentina PDO•Provolone Valpadana PDO•Salame Cremona PGI•Salame piacentino PDO•Salamini italiani alla cacciatora PDO

•Colli Piacentini DOC•Emilia IGT•Terre di Veleja IGT•Valtidone IGT

To eat

To drink

GUTTURNIO FESTIVALCarpaneto Piacentino Last week in April

A BIT OF FLAVOUR - UN PO’ DI GUSTO Lower Piacenza areaNovember

Events

Marguerite of Austria commissioned plans for a lavish, fairytale palace; this was how Palazzo Farnese came about, a palace-castle that has few equals in Italy and the fi rst place to visit in Piacenza. It is equally unusual to fi nd two sculptures that both give their name to a square; Piazza Cavalli, the most beautiful open space in town. This is where the “Gotico”, the symbol of the city also known as the Palazzo del Comune, stands. Built in Gothic Lombard style, it is adorned with merlons and porticoes. Next to it is the church of San Francesco, fi lled with works of art, and Piazza Duomo, where attention turns to the Romanesque cathedral in pink marble (12th century).

The gastronomic delights of Piacenza are without doubt its three excellent cold cuts; Coppa, Pancetta and Salami, all awarded PDO recognition. It also boasts quality cheeses like Grana Padano PDO and Provolone Valpadana PDO. Excellent wines are produced on the hills around Piacenza, in particular the red wine Gutturnio and the white Ortugo. A typical dish is “pisarei e fasò”, an ideal way to use stale bread, and main courses like roast coppa and “picula ad caval”, minced horse meat with tomatoes, onion and peppers.

INFO:Piacenza Tourist Information Offi ceTel. +39 0523 329324www.comune.piacenza.itwww.provincia.pc.it/turismo

Don’t miss

PPROVOLONE VALPADANA PDO & GRANA PADANO PDOStretched and processed, then wrapped around itself and shaped; this is how curds are processed in the cheese factories that make Provolone Valpadana PDO. The stretching is a key moment in the processing of Provolone Valpadana: what comes out is a ribbon that is then wrapped around itself and fi nally, shaped to ensure it has no air bubbles. It is a versatile and modern cheese that is popular internationally and is much appreciated by connoisseurs. It can be sweet or strong, fresh or matured and mandarin-shaped or cylindrical. The other “must-have” of the area is Grana Padano, PDO Italian cheese that is a symbol of typicality and tradition in the world. This cheese owes its characteristic fragrance and aroma to the milk used to produce it, which in turn is linked to the fodder given to the milk cattle.

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Castel San Giovanni & Robiola

In the area near Castel San Giovanni, Morfasso and other areas of the Apennines near Piacenza, this fresh cheese is made using whole cow’s milk or mixed milk. Sugar, salt, grappa liqueur or dry white wine are sometimes added. It is stored in glass jars under oil, becoming more intensely fl avoured as it matures.

Ponte dell’Olio & bread “with a stamp”In Ponte dell’Olio, using wheat fl our, water, natural yeast, brewer’s yeast and salt, “bread with a stamp” is prepared. It has this name because a small ball of dough is placed in the centre of the loaf, like a stamp, thus giving it its distinctive shape. The processing cycle for this bread is checked thanks to keen awareness of the delicate microbiological processes that occur during proving and no chemical additives are used to prepare the dough. Numerous people come from outside the province to buy this bread that is excellent with all kinds of food.

COPPA PIACENTINA AND OTHER PDO COLD CUTS Pig farming in the area around Piacenza dates back to a millennium before the Christian era. However, the tradition of butchering, salting and curing pork meat to make tasty cold cuts was consolidated during the Middle Ages. Today Piacenza can boast three wonderful examples of this ancient art; Coppa, Salami and Pancetta PDO. Pigs destined for these cold cuts come from the regions of Emilia Romagna and Lombardy, but the processing area is limited to the Province of Piacenza alone, where the climatic and territorial characteristics are fundamental for the unmistakeable fl avour that has made them famous. The hallmark of these cold cuts is a delicate balance between sweet and savoury, as well as the particular aroma that characterizes cured products.

Info: Consorzio Salumi Tipici Piacentini

(Consortium of Typical Cold Cuts of Piacenza) www.piacenzafoodvalley.com

Every year in November, the lower Piacenza area celebrates local fl avours in an event called “Un po’ di gusto”.

Worth trying

Monticelli d’Ongina & garlic

The product that symbolizes this village on the right bank of the Po River is garlic for which Monticelli is the one of the capitals in Italy. The most popular variety is called “Piacentino bianco” and thanks to the particular environmental, climatic and geophysical conditions of the area, it has a fi rm white fl esh that is delightfully fragranced, rich in vitamins and mineral salts and exceptional in terms of aroma and duration (it can be kept from one year to the next).

A toast

GUTTURNIO & ORTRUGO DOC Piacenza has always been a land of wines. Gutturnio is certainly the king of local wines. It is a full-bodied red wine with evident tannins and a sharp, clear taste; the expression of a culture and territory. In 1967, Gutturnio was one of the first ten Italian wines to receive DOC recognition. The other wine that symbolizes the territory is the white wine Ortrugo, which has a light straw-yellow colour and a dry, sweetish taste. It is produced in both frizzante and spumante versions, but is also becoming popular as a still wine. Some of the most important wine cellars in the hills of Piacenza have set up an association called “Mosaico Piacentino”.

Info: Consorzio di Tutela Vini D.O.C. Colli Piacentini (Consortium to Protect the DOC Wines of the Hills of Piacenza)

www.piacenzafoodvalley.it

Monte Lazzarina & caciotta

Caciotta farmhouse cheese from Monte Lazzarina is produced by mixing cow’s milk and goat’s milk; it is then seasoned for two days and matured for about a month. Production is typically centred on the Apennines of the Province of Piacenza and the fi nished cheese is fi rm with a light-coloured rind.

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The Apennines & autumnal produce

Chestnuts, mushrooms and truffl es are typical products of the Apennines of Piacenza and in October several events are organized to celebrate them.In Bobbio there’s a mushroom and truffl e market.

Info: Bobbio Tourist Information Offi [email protected]

In Castell’Arquato there’s a Chestnut Festival.

Info: Castell’Arquato Tourist Information Offi ce [email protected]

In Pecorara there’s an event celebrating truffl es and other autumnal produce.

Worth seeing

THE GOTICO The incomplete Palazzo Gotico dominates the main square in the town centre, Piazza Cavalli - with its equestrian statues of Ranuccio and Alessandro Farnese. It was commissioned in 1281 by Alberto Scoto, head of the merchants and Ghibelline lord of the city, and was planned by local craftsmen. Built in Gothic Lombard style, its layout recalls the traditional town hall buildings of northern Italy, with a low portico for meetings and solemn French windows onto a balcony, lighting the single large upper room. The illustrious poet Francesco Petrarca was once hosted in the main hall. Info: Piacenza Tourist Information Offi [email protected]

Worth seeing

A LAND OF CASTLES AND HISTORICAL RESIDENCESAll around the territory of the ancient Duchy of Parma and Piacenza there is considerable evidence of the thousand-year old history of this area, a border land and an area of transit. It has countless fortresses, castles, residences, fortifi ed villages and abbeys where noble families, famous mercenaries, patrons of the arts and great spiritual fi gures once lived. These sites have now grouped together and are represented by the Association of Castles of the Duchy of Parma and Piacenza. The splendour and atmosphere of the past come back to life in “Remembering Past Flavours”; a packed programme of historical re-enactments, with dinner, held at association castles.

Info: www.castellidelducato.it

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Parma & surroundings

PARMA HAM FESTIVAL In the municipalities of the Parma ham production zone (Langhirano, Tizzano, Collecchio, Calestano, Lesignano Bagni, Neviano Arduini, Montechiarugolo, Sala Baganza and Felino).From the end of August until 20th September approx.

GASTRONOMIC AUTUMN IN THE TARO VALLEYIn the municipalities of the upper Taro Valley (Albareto, Bedonia, Berceto, Borgotaro, Compiano, Tornolo).In September, October and November

NOVEMBER PORC …. LET’S HOPE IT’S FOGGY!Sissa, Polesine Parmense, Zibello, RoccabiancaEvery weekend in November

Events

17 - Parm

a & surroundings

To eat

To drink

•Colli di Parma DOC•Emilia IGT•Fortana del Taro IGT

•Culatello di Zibello PDO•Parma ham PDO •Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese PDO•Porcini mushrooms of Borgotaro PGI •Salame Cremona PGI•Salamini italiani alla cacciatora PDO

Renowned for its art, music and quality of life, with an old town centre built around the ancient Piazza Grande, now Piazza Garibaldi, Parma is an elegant, open and hospitable town. Founded in 183 BC, a free commune was constituted around 1140 to be followed by the supremacy of the Farnese family, the Bourbons and the Duchy of Marie Louise of Austria. Its fi nest monuments include the Romanesque Cathedral, the Baptistery, in pink marble from Verona, the imposing Palazzo della Pilotta and the neoclassical Regio Theatre. The name of Parma is also linked to its renowned culinary tradition, the taste for sophisticated and top-quality food and excellent products

like Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, Parma ham, boiled shoulder ham and salami from Felino. The agricultural and food excellence of Parma boasts an ancient tradition and various museums in the area are dedicated to it, including the Parmigiano-Reggiano Museum in Soragna, the Parma Ham Museum in Langhirano, the Felino Salami Museum and the Tomato Museum in Collecchio.

INFO:Parma Tourist Information Offi ceTel. +39 0521 218889www.turismo.comune.parma.itwww.turismo.parma.it

Don’t miss

ANOLINI The princes of Parmesan cuisine, anolini (or cappelletti) are the traditional dish for opening Christmas and New Year lunch. “Anolini” is a term used solely in Parma and refers to a fi lled parcel, shaped like a small disc without no edge, made by superimposing two layers of pasta. The delicious fi lling is a mixture of mature grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, breadcrumbs, egg yolk and the concentrated sauce of beef pot roast, with a little grated nutmeg to taste.

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Worth trying

NOCINONocino is a typical product of Noceto, a small town in the Province of Parma where the tradition of making this walnut liqueur has always existed. The preparation probably came from the Romans or maybe even the Celts, who had learnt the art of fermenting walnuts and honey from the Picts in Anglia. The age-old custom of making homemade nocino in Noceto is surrounded by numerous legends. In September, Noceto hosts a nocino and walnut cake competition.

Soragna & Parmigiano-Reggiano PDO

Info: Parmigiano-Reggiano Museumwww.museidelcibo.it

Borgotaro & Porcini mushrooms PGI

Borgotaro’s porcini mushrooms PGI grow in the copses of the Valleys of the Taro and Magra and are divided into four species; red, dark, “magnàn” and cold-weather mushrooms. Their characteristics are an intense, clean aroma that is not too strong. Porcini mushrooms from Borgotaro can be used in various recipes; they are excellent served raw and thinly-sliced or fried, grilled or preserved in oil, but also delicious served with polenta, tagliatelle, risottos and potato-fi lled tortelli or with meat,

to prepare roasts and tasty cutlets. Lastly, try them in various kinds of mushroom soup. Every year in autumn, in the upper Taro Valley - in the municipalities of Albareto, Bedonia, Berceto, Borgotaro, Compiano and Tornolo - mushrooms and other local autumnal products are celebrated in various festivals.

Info: www.stradadelfungo.it

Felino & salami

The village, an agricultural and industrial centre in the gently rolling hills of the valley of the Baganza, owes its fame to the production of salami. Felino salami is prepared using only pork meat - the lean trimmings cut from “coppa”, hams and shoulder hams. This perfect mixture of fat and lean meat is coarsely minced before adding salt, peppercorns and nitrate. Just before the mixture is packed into the pig’s gut, pepper and garlic crushed in a mortar and dissolved in dry white wine are added. According to tradition, salami should be sliced

A toast

MALVASIA DOCOn the hills near Parma and in particular, in the valleys of the Baganza and the Parma, “Malvasia di Candia” is grown and used to make the DOC wine “Malvasia dei Colli di Parma”. It can be either a still wine, to accompany meals, or a sparkling dessert wine, with a balanced fl avour, dry or medium-sweet, still or sparkling and low proof. It is ideal with light appetizers or vegetable dishes, but is also good with traditional local salamis and cold cuts, as well as “anolini” or “tortelli”.

Info: Consorzio Volontario per la Tutela dei Vini Colli di Parma (Voluntary Consortium to Safeguard the Wines of the Hills of Parma)www.collidiparma.it

at a 60° angle in order to highlight the grain. Felino has a museum dedicated to its famous salami.

Info: www.museidelcibo.it

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a & surroundings

Langhirano & ham

The town is situated close to Parma Torrent and is surrounded by numerous factories that process and cure Parma Ham PDO, an extremely popular cold cut exported all over the world. Proof of its success comes from 2,000 years of history; Cato the Censor, Strabo and Polybius all refer to pig farms and haunches kept under salt. The Italian word for ham “prosciutto” (which comes from the Latin perexsuctum, literally “dried”) says it all: its slow and patient curing has ancient origins. This geographical area provides the ideal climatic conditions for “drying” or in other words, the natural curing that gives Parma Ham its sweetness, fl avour and harmony.

Info: Consorzio del Prosciutto di Parma (Parma Ham Consortium)www.prosciuttodiparma.com

Langhirano has dedicated to this famous food product both a museum and a festival, which is held every year between the end of August and the fi rst half of September.

Info: Museum of Parma Ham and Salamis from Parma - www.museidelcibo.itParma Ham Festivalwww.festivaldelprosciuttodiparma.com

San Secondo & boiled shoulder hamBoiled shoulder ham from San Secondo is a delicious traditional cold cut from Parma produced in a restricted area in the plains around the town; the epicentre of this area is San Secondo. It was already popular during Roman times and was one of the favourite cold cuts of the great Giuseppe Verdi. Boiled shoulder ham or spalla cotta from San Secondo is made using the front shoulder of the pig, tied by hand to give it the shape of a large sphere, and then cured for 25/30 days. It is then cooked for several hours at a very low temperature in water, red wine and vegetables. It is excellent as an appetizer, served alone or with other cold cuts, accompanied by warm homemade bread or traditional torta fritta (a kind of fried dumpling).

Info: San Secondo Parmense Tourist Information Offi [email protected]

Worth seeing

THE CATHEDRALDedicated to Our Lady of the Assumption, Parma Cathedral is one of the most representative buildings of the Padania-Romanesque period. The façade has a pitched roof, three orders of loggias and three portals. Inside, it has a nave and two aisles and a transept with side chapels ending in apses. The internal decorations show incredibly interesting sculptural pieces, whilst the Deposition by Antelami is walled in the transept. Between 1525 and 1530, Correggio painted the cupola of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary surrounded by Apostles, ephebes and angels carrying musical instruments with the patron saints of the city in the pendentives.

Info: Parma Tourist Information Offi [email protected]

THE REGGIA OF COLORNO With its polygonal shape and colonnade, the Reggia of Colorno is the result of various interventions that have taken place over time. Thanks to Phillip of Bourbon, the furnishings were renovated in the second half of the 18th century. After the unifi cation of Italy, its art collections and furnishings were lost. Inside, the most interesting rooms are on the main fl oor, which dates from the Bourbon period - small intimate rooms, elegant decor, large marble fi replaces, inlaid fl ooring, double swing doors with locks in wrought gilded bronze and ornate stuccoes. Recent upgrading work on the park has restored the English garden, commissioned by Marie Louise in the fi rst two decades of the 19th century.

Info: Colorno District Offi ceuffi [email protected]

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Zibello & culatello

Culatello of Zibello PDO is made using the boneless legs of adult pigs, from which a part of meat is removed to make the equally delicious “fi occhetto”. The remaining part, which is more tender and of superior quality, is carefully trimmed and shaped then sprinkled with salt and massaged vigorously, before being left to rest. It is then stuffed into a pig’s bladder and tied to give it its traditional “pear” shape. Thanks to the area’s climate, curing gives culatello its unique and unmistakeable fl avour and fragrance. The combination of summer heat and autumnal fogs mean Culatello from Zibello is exquisite when ready to eat. Info: Consorzio del Culatello di Zibello (Culatello of Zibello Consortium)www.consorziodelculatellodizibello.it Delicious pork salamis and cold cuts are celebrated each year in November in an event called “November porc”, held between Sissa, Polesine Parmense, Zibello and Roccabianca.

In its historical rooms, the Reggia hosts ALMA - a top-level, international training centre for Italian cuisine (Info: www.alma.scuolacucina.it) and the University of Gastronomic Sciences, founded based on an idea by Slow Food (Info: www.unisg.it).

Reggio Emilia & surroundings

SLOW FESTIVALFelina (Castelnuovo ne’ Monti)Last weekend in July

PUMPKIN FESTIVALReggioloLast weekend in September

Events

25 - Reggio E

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To eat

To drink

•Colli di Scandiano e di Canossa DOC•Reggiano DOC •Emilia IGT

•Emilia Romagna pears PGI•Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese PDO•Salamini italiani alla cacciatora PDO•Traditional balsamic vinegar of Reggio Emilia PDO

Reggio Emilia is one of the leading cities in terms of the quality of life. With a growing economic sector, thanks to numerous production activities, it is fi rst in Italy in terms of the rate of employment and exports. An art city, it combines ancient monuments and contemporary works of art such as the bridges of Calatrava, the Spazio Gerra, the works of “Invito a” and exhibitions like “Fotografi a Europea”. It is the home of the tricolour, the Italian national fl ag, created here in 1797 in what is now the town hall and gold medal of the Resistance. It is rich in history, illustrious fi gures and above all, memory and a collective identity. It has a great food and wine tradition; the Province

is one of the cradles of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and traditional balsamic vinegar. Tortelli fi lled with Swiss chard or pumpkin triumph, along with erbazzone (chard pie), cold cuts and pork, with produce from some of the most highly specialised farms in north Italy. It is possible to organize extraordinary food itineraries starting in the heart of Reggio Emilia and heading towards the hills or the Po River, to discover the historical feats of Matilda of Canossa and in the literary footsteps of Boiardo and Ariosto.

INFO:Reggio Emilia Tourist Information Offi ce Tel. +39 0522 451152www.municipio.re.it/turismoreggioemiliaturismo.provincia.re.it

Don’t miss

TRADITIONAL BALSAMIC VINEGAR OF REGGIO EMILIA PDOIn a few cases, such as for Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Reggio Emilia PDO, history “is the product”. In fact, for many centuries, this product of the geniality and passion of man has honoured and characterised the most fortunate and noble tables. It was fi rst written about in 1046, when the Emperor of Germany Henry III from Piacenza, asked Boniface to give him special vinegar “he had heard was made perfectly there”. During the 12th, 13th and 14th centuries we know for certain of the existence in Reggio Emilia, Scandiano and the main towns under the House of Este of vinegar producers who were part of authentic guilds whose members jealously guarded the secrets of this precious product. Writings about balsamic vinegar increase during the 19th century, with the dowry lists of the noble families of Reggio Emilia.

Info: Consorzio fra produttori di Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia (Consortium of the Producers of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Reggio Emilia) - www.acetobalsamicotradizionale.it

In November, Albinea, in the foothills, celebrates both balsamic vinegar and “ciccioli”, tasty pork scratchings.

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Bibbiano is considered the cradle of Parmigiano-Reggiano, the most famous (and imitated) Italian cheese in the world. Anyone who loves this cheese in its various forms - less mature or after medium or long-term maturing - shouldn’t miss any of these events; the “Sapori Matildici” Fair celebrating local fl avours in Bibbiano at the beginning of autumn and the “Due Giorni” fair in Carpineti. For more information on Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese check the consortium website.

Info: www.parmigiano-reggiano.it

Bibbiano & Parmigiano-Reggiano PDO

Brescello & spongata

There’s no dinner worthy of its name that does not end with a cake and from this point of view, Brescello has an age-old tradition thanks to its famous “spongata”. The history of this cake was lost in the 15th century, but in more recent times, a letter dated 1951, thanking for hospitality received, shows that Giovannino Guareschi, Gino Cervi, Fernandel and all the cast of the fi rst of the fi ve fi lms of the Don Camillo saga appreciated this famous cake. Spongata is popular because, as well as being an unusual dish, the fi lling between the two layers of rich short-crust pastry calls to mind the fl avours of yesteryear. Don’t miss a visit to the Don Camillo and Peppone Museum that houses mementoes and souvenirs linked to the fi lm saga.

La Valle del Tresinaro & sheep

To this day, in the Apennines, mutton butchery and cold cut products are still extremely popular. The most characteristic aspect is the addition of seasoning, always present in these preparations to harmonize the typical fl avour of mutton. In restaurants and butcher’s shops near Mount Valestra, visitors are likely to come across “barzigole” (seasoned meat) delicacies. Abundantly seasoned, they exalt the characteristic aromas that are much sought-after and incredibly rich in history. In Valestra, in the Baisano area, and as far as Viano, areas that were once Byzantine, families still produce an autochthonous product par excellence - mutton ham, which is called “violino” (or cushöt) and is particularly dark and tasty. Info: www.appenninoreggiano.it

Worth trying

ERBAZZONE Erbazzone, also called “scarpazùn” in dialect, is a savoury vegetable fl an and a typical gastronomic speciality of Reggio Emilia. It consists in an unleavened pastry base, made using wheat fl our (corn fl our can also be used), water, lard and salt that is then fi lled with a mixture of Swiss chard and spinach, sautéed with onion and lard and seasoned with garlic, parsley and other herbs. Abundant grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, matured a minimum of 24 months, and breadcrumbs should then be added. It is then closed with another layer of unleavened pastry and baked in the oven. In the Apennines the recipe adds rice. A consortium has been set up to promote authentic “erbazzone reggiano” and request European Community PGI origin recognition.

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The plains & tortelli fi lled with pumpkin and Swiss chardFor a large part of the Province of Reggio Emilia (in particular the plains), pumpkin tortelli, a fresh pasta dish served with butter and sage or meat sauce, have represented for centuries the dish of choice on feast days even for the poorest farmers, unlike meat-fi lled “cappelletti”, a more noble dish usually served at the manor. Pumpkins grew everywhere (and were cheap), not only in the area around Reggio Emilia, but also in a vaster area where pumpkin tortelli are still popular, for example in the Mantua and Ferrara areas, although subject to local variations. We should point out that not everyone will appreciate the sweet fl avour of pumpkin tortelli. Another typical dish of this area are Swiss chard tortelli to which Scandiano dedicates a festival in November that sees local restaurants, inns and even housewives competing to win gold, silver or bronze medals for their tortelli.

Info: www.stradaviniesapori.re.it

A toast

LAMBRUSCO REGGIANO DOCLambrusco Reggiano DOC wine comes from wild vines that Cato refers to in his “De agri cultura” in the 2nd century BC. If rosé, Lambrusco Reggiano is ideal for snacks and appetizers such as cold cuts (excellent with “mortadella”), erbazzone, fi rst courses, fi lled fresh pasta, fried white meat and fi sh and even with pizza. In the darker variety it is delicious with “cappelletti” and “lasagne”, as well as with cold cuts, red meat, in particular pork, boiled and roast meat served with tasty sauces, grilled meat and fried or stewed fi sh. The medium-sweet version is excellent with delicate local dishes that tend towards sweetness, whereas the sweet version is ideal for accompanying fruit and pastriesand biscuits.

Worth seeing

CANOSSA CASTLEThe strategic position of this castle has made it a natural stronghold since time immemorial. Canossa became a fortifi ed town of the feud of the Attonidi, the powerful family of Lombard origin that enjoyed its period of greatest splendour thanks to Countess Matilda. The most famous image linked to the history of the castle is that of Emperor Henry IV, pleading at the foot of the castle and waiting to be received by Pope Gregory VII in January 1077. After the death of Matilda, in 1115 the castle began a period of decline marked by its destruction in 1255 at the hands of the commune of Reggio. In 1557, at the head of 5,000 foot soldiers and 800 horsemen, Ottavio Farnese attacked the fortress with cannon fi re and destroyed it again. The castle now houses a small, recently-renovated National Museum that houses, amongst

Info: Consorzio Promozione e Tutela Vini Reggiani (Consortium to Promote and Protect Wines from Reggio) - www.vinireggiani.it

Every year in October, in Correggio, Lambrusco is celebrated in “Il Raccontavino” part of San Luca Fair.Info: Correggio Tourist Information Offi [email protected]

In Montecchio Emilia, 30 km from Reggio, it is possible to visit a wine museum dedicated to Lambrusco, “from the countryside to the wine cellar” hosted at “Tenuta” Rampata Farm.

Info: Wine Museumwww.acetaiamedici.it

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other items, a precious baptismal font dating from the 12th century.

Info: Tourist Information Offi ce of the Lands of Matilda di Canossa ([email protected] -www.matildedicanossa.it)

BRESCELLO The lower Reggio area provided the setting for all the fi lms based on the famous tales of Giovannino Guareschi. In fact, Brescello is home to the Don Camillo and Peppone Museum, which is housed in an austere building, a former Benedictine monastery, close to Piazza Maggiore. It was founded in 1989 thanks to a group of enthusiasts. The museum contains mementoes and souvenirs linked to the saga: from the bicycle that belonged to Fernandel, to the motorbike

owned by Peppone, as well as lots of videocassettes, books and food and wine products. Other places made famous by the fi lms are dotted around the village (the large bell, the square and, above all, the church with its bell tower and Crucifi x).

Info: Don Camillo & Peppone [email protected]

Modena & surroundings

HUMAN DRAUGHTSCastelvetro2nd weekend in September

SHOWCASES, MOTORS AND BALSAMIC FLAVOURSSpilamberto1st weekend in October

Events

33 - Modena &

surroundings

• Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PGI• Cotechino Modena PGI• Emilia Romagna pears PGI• Modena ham PDO • Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese PDO• Salamini italiani alla cacciatora PDO• Sour cherries of Modena PGI• Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PDO• Zampone Modena PGI

• Bianco di Castelfranco Emilia IGT• Emilia IGT • Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro DOC • Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce DOC• Lambrusco di Sorbara DOC• Modena or di Modena DOC• Reno DOC

To eat

To drink

Modena began as the Roman city of Mutina and it has remains of civilizations ranging from the Palaeolithic to the Bronze Age; the latter include the now famous “terramare”, typical villages founded in Emilia around the middle of the second millennium. The industrial and cultural motoring heritage of the area near Modena, that has earned it the name the “Land of Engines”, boasts companies such as Ferrari, Maserati, Pagani Automobili, B.G. Engineering, De Tomaso and Bugatti. Modena is also synonymous with good food and eating well has been handed down from a sophisticated gastronomic culture that fl ourished on the tables of the nobility and the exclusive court of the Dukes of

Este. Modena is famous for its unique selection of delicatessen foods like balsamic vinegar, cold cuts, zampone and cotechino, tigelle, gnocchi fritti (fried dumplings) and borlengho (literally “the food of the poor”).

In Maranello - home of the automobile manufacturer Ferrari - the “Taste Grand Prix” is held in October, offering a perfect combination of excellent fl avours typical of Modena and the red racing cars that make the whole world dream.

Info: Terra di Motori [email protected] www.motorvalley.it

INFO: Modena Tourist Information Offi ceTel. +39 059 2032660turismo.comune.modena.itwww.appenninomodenese.net

Don’t miss

COTECHINO AND ZAMPONE PGI“Cotechino” and “zampone” are typical products of Modena. They consist in a mixture of lean meat, fat and pork rind with the addition of salt, pepper and other spices; to make cotechino the mixture is stuffed into a natural or artifi cial gut, whilst to make zampone it is stuffed into the skin of the pig’s front trotter, which also gives it its shape. Both are slow cooked in boiling water and traditionally served with lentils or mashed potatoes.

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Castelfranco Emilia & tortellini

The origin of tortellini has always been contended by Modena and Bologna; it seems the dish initially came from Castelfranco Emilia (at the time part of the territory of Bologna) and according to legend, was created by an innkeeper inspired by Venus’ bellybutton. However, the historical origins of tortellini have been lost in time. These small pasta parcels, fi lled with meat and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese then cooked in broth (traditionally capon broth) are the symbol of the cuisine of Emilia all over Italy. In Castelfranco Emilia, they are celebrated in the traditional Feast of San Nicola, in the second week of September.

Vignola & cherries

Vignola is famous throughout Europe for its cherries. Production begins in May when the fi rst “Durone Bigarreau” ripens and continues with the “Mora di Vignola” cherry, a variety with the best characteristics in terms of fl avour and fragrance. In June, dark cherries like the “Nero I” and the traditional “Anella” ripen, whereas late varieties include the “Nero II” and “Ciliegione” with excellent nutritional properties. The Cherry, Plum and Typical Fruit of Vignola Consortium was set up in 1964 to promote and protect local cherry varieties.

Info: www.cittacastelliciliegi.it

Worth trying

TRADITIONAL BALSAMIC VINEGAR OF MODENA PDOSince time immemorial, traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena PDO has represented the culture and history of Modena. In fact, its existence is due to the particular pedoclimatic characteristics of the territory, along with the skills and know-how of producers. Traditional balsamic vinegar is obtained from grape must that is cooked, matured by slow acetifi cation derived from natural fermentation and gradual concentration, and then aged for an extremely long time in a series of small wood barrels (called “batteries”) of decreasing size and volume without the addition of any aromatic substances. Various documents refer to vinegar made using must in the ancient Duchy of Este as early as the 18th century.

Info: Consorzio Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena

(Consortium of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena)www.balsamico.it

Spilamberto is the capital of balsamic vinegar and it has a museum dedicated to it.

Info: Museo del Balsamico Tradizionale (Traditional Balsamic Vinegar Museum)[email protected]

In October, Spilamberto also hosts events celebrating balsamic vinegar and other products.


Balsamic Vinegar of Modena, which has recently gained PGI recognition, is another typical product of this area and is popular both in Italy and all over the world. It is obtained from boiled must, concentrated

must and wine vinegar based on a process that is decidedly quicker than that used for traditional balsamic vinegar. The musts used to produce it come exclusively from grapes grown in Emilia Romagna. The product can even be aged for more than 3 years.

Info: www.consorziobalsamico.it

Zocca & borlengo

This is a typical dish of the Apennines of Modena, whose origins are contended by the villages of Zocca, Montombraro, Guiglia and Vignola. It is a type of thin bread, similar in consistency to a pancake. The dough is very simple and made using water, fl our, eggs and salt. It is served piping hot, folded into quarters and seasoned with “cunza”, a mixture of pancetta, lard, garlic and rosemary that encloses all the fl avours of this land. Borlengo is “sociable” food and naturally, every village fête serves it. In Guiglia, in May, there’s even a Borlengo Festival. To promote and hand down the “culture of borlengo” a school has been set up called the “Compagnia della Cunza” and there’s even a borlengo workshop in Lame di Zocca (Info: Tel. +39 059 985584).

Info: Museo del Castagno e Museo-Laboratorio del Borlengo (Chestnut Museum and Borlengo Museum-Workshop)Tel. +39 340 0073159Mobile +39 340 0073159www.museodelcastagno.promappennino.it

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A toast

LAMBRUSCO DOC WINES OF MODENALambrusco di Modena comes from the “labrusca” vine, which was known to both the Etruscans and Romans. Cato mentions it in “De Agri Cultura” in the 2nd century BC calling it a “singulare remedium ad refrigerandos in morbis corporum ardores” (“a unique remedy for lowering a fever”). There is evidence of it being taken to the ducal wine cellars on 29 October 1693 and half a century later, it was already extremely popular at court. In his monumental work “Principali vitigni di vino coltivati in Italia” (on the main vines grown in Italy), Italo Cosmo describes three different types of Lambrusco vines in Modena called Grasparossa, Salamino and Sorbara, the latter of which he judged to be the most important because it produced the best wine.

Info: Consorzio Marchio Storico dei Lambruschi Modenesi

(Consortium of the Historical Brand of Modenese Lambrusco Wines) - www.lambrusco.net

In September, grapes and Lambrusco are celebrated in a huge village festival in Castelvetro.


Gnocco fritto & tigella

“Gnocco fritto”, a type of fried dumpling, is made from dough similar to bread dough, traditionally fried in lard and served with cold cuts, cheeses or marmalade. Popular throughout the area, it was created as a substitute for bread and in the countryside was once eaten for breakfast or as a mid-morning snack for farmers who had been up since dawn. Now every village fête includes it on its menu. Another typical dish of the Modena area is “tigella” or “crescentina”, traditional mountain bread cooked over wood in a fi replace between two clay discs. It is then fi lled with cold cuts, soft cheeses or a mixture of lard and rosemary. Visit the permanent exhibition on the tigella at the visitors’ centre of Sassi di Roccamalatina Park in Samone di Guiglia.

Info: Museo delle Tigelle (Tigella Museum)[email protected]

The Apennines and Parmigiano-Reggiano PDOThe Apennines of Modena are one of the most famous areas for the production of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, probably the best-known Italian cheese in the world. In October, in Lama Mocogno, the king of cheeses is the star of an event called “Parmigiano-Reggiano da gustare”.

Info: www.appenninomodenese.net

Worth seeing

CARPI AND THE LOWER MODENA AREA In the lower part of the Province of Modena, which is crossed by the Secchia and Panaro Rivers, the land around the Renaissance town of Carpi is extremely rich. Indeed, it is the cradle of Sorbara and Salamino di Santa Croce Lambrusco wines, as well as a treasure trove of other typical products and gastronomic delicacies, like traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena, Parmesan cheese, traditional cold cuts, fruit and traditional cakes.

Info: Terre d’Argine Tourist Information Offi [email protected]

THE CATHEDRAL AND GHIRLANDINA Modena Cathedral is one of the most important monuments of the Romanesque period. The art of Lanfranco, Wiligelmo and then the Campionesi Masters contributed enormously to making this building a place for practicing and spreading the faith. It has a nave with two aisles and outside, has an elegant continuous portico with triple round arches from the façade to the apse. The large rose window and two side portals on the façade, as well as the wonderful “Regia Door” on the south side, are by the Campionesi Masters who, after Lanfranco, worked in Modena until around 1230. Building work on the characteristic “Ghirlandina” Tower, which is just over 86 metres high, began in 1100 and was completed in 1309 under the direction of Enrico da Campione. The spire was added later and completed in 1587.

39 - Modena &

surroundings

Info: Modena Tourist Information Offi [email protected]

Bologna & surroundings

FLAVOUR WEEKENDS IN BOLOGNABolognaWeekends in October

TARTUFESTA IN THE APENNINES OF BOLOGNA Municipalities in the Apennines of BolognaWeekends in October and November

BACCANALEImolaFirst three weekends in November

Events

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surroundings

To eat

•Emilia Romagna pears PGI•Green asparagus of Altedo PGI•Marrons of Castel del Rio PGI•Mortadella Bologna PGI•Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese PDO•Peaches and nectarines of Romagna PGI•Salamini italiani alla cacciatora PDO•Shallots of Romagna PGI•White Bullock of the Central Apennines PGI

To drink

•Albana di Romagna and Romagna Albana Spumante DOCG•Bianco del Sillaro IGT•Colli Bolognesi DOC•Colli di Imola DOC •Colli Imolesi IGT•Colli di Romagna Centrale DOC •Emilia IGT•Reno DOC •Sangiovese di Romagna and Trebbiano di Romagna DOC

Bologna is the main city in Emilia Romagna, a crossroads between the north and south of the Italian peninsula. Initially an Etruscan then a Gallic town, it was also a Roman colony and municipality and became a free commune during the Middle Ages. The world’s fi rst university was founded between its walls in the 11th century. The charming old town centre has numerous buildings and churches that house a wealth of works of art, bearing witness to the cultural importance of Bologna over the centuries. A walk under the almost 40 km of porticoes that adorn its streets, mean visitors can enjoy city life, shop in prestigious boutiques or small or large markets and generally get to know its many aspects. Bologna is rich in art and history, a delightful place to visit and densely packed with culture.

Bologna’s gastronomic fame dates back to the Middle Ages, but its traditions are closely linked to the university; the mix of students from all over Italy and Europe and professors of different nationalities helped to enrich the city’s gastronomic culture. Bologna, the fat thus goes hand-in-hand with so-called Bologna, the learned. Don’t miss the Archaeological Municipal Museum, Diocesan Museum and the brand new modern art museum (MamBO), as well as the Giorgio Morandi Museum and the studio-house of this great 20th-century artist.

INFO:Bologna Tourist Information Offi ceTel. +39 051 239660 - 251947 - 6472113www.bolognaturismo.info

Don’t miss

MORTADELLA BOLOGNA PGIMouth-watering and delicious, Mortadella Bologna PGI boasts an ancient history. Its roots date back to the 16th century and there are increasing numbers of historical-literary references associated to this product. Mortadella Bologna PGI, made from pure pork, is a cooked cold cut that is pink, lightly spiced and has an intense fragrance. Once cut, the surface is velvety and a uniform pink colour; it is fragrant, with a delicate taste. A festival called “Mortadella Please” is held every October in Zola Predosa, on the hills near Bologna.

Info: Zola Predosa Tourist Information Offi [email protected]

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Imola & mutton

Info: Imola Tourist Information Offi [email protected]

Castel San Pietro Terme & honey

At the foot of the green hills near Bologna, on the border between Emilia and Romagna, is Castel San Pietro Terme. As well as soft cheeses, such as “squacquerone” and “Castel San Pietro”, the town is famous for its excellent extra-virgin honey. In fact, a honey observatory has been set up here that groups together Italian apiarian institutions and organizations and has been entrusted by ISMEA (Institute of Studies, Research and Information on Agricultural Markets) to carry out a monthly survey of the state of honey production and wholesale prices.

Info: Castel San Pietro Tourist Information Offi [email protected] - www.stradaviniesapori.it

In Bologna, at the National Apiculture Institute (80, Via di Saliceto), it is possible to visit a museum dedicated to honey and bees; a form of farming that has always been practiced in Emilia Romagna.

C.R.A. Unità di ricerca di apicoltura e bachicoltura (Apiculture and Silkworm Breeding Research Unit)[email protected]

TAGLIATELLE & HOMEMADE PASTABologna is famous for its tagliatelle with Bolognese meat sauce, tortellini and all kinds of traditional, handmade pasta. All over the city, visitors can buy handmade pasta, made using eggs, fl our and water, in many shops that specialize in fresh pasta where “sfogline” - the women who make handmade pasta - work. The best compete each year to test their skills in an event called “Il Matterello d’Oro” (or “Golden Rolling Pin”) at Palazzo Re Enzo in the old town.

Info: Bologna Tourist Information Offi cetouristoffi [email protected]

Altedo & green asparagus PGI

The “green prince” of Altedo, a small town between Bologna and Ferrara, is asparagus. In 1923 some farmers from Altedo travelled to Nantes in France, returning with clear technical notions about asparagus. Subsequently, several important cooperatives were set up to promote and market this vegetable. Every year, in mid-May, Altedo hosts an asparagus festival. Another important place for this spring delicacy is Mesola, in the province of Ferrara, where an Asparagus Fair is held between the end of April and early May.

BOLOGNA POTATOES AND TRUFFLES The Bologna area has always been famous for producing top-quality potatoes. Between the 60s and 70s, the variety that became popular here was the “Primura”, selected in Holland and excellent for all kinds of uses. In the mid-70s, the fi rst and as yet only “Potato Exchange” was founded in order to set potato prices in the fi eld and the processing and packaging warehouses. In 2002, the idea was fi rst forwarded for the Bologna Potato PDO, which is now almost a reality. It is oval, uniform, with smooth, light-coloured skin and fi rm, straw-yellow fl esh and extraordinary for all culinary uses. In September, the Bologna potato is celebrated in various events. “Patata in Bo” involves all the city’s restaurants and numerous shops, whilst on the Apennines a potato festival is held in Tolè, an outlying hamlet of Vergato.In Budrio, on the plains, there is a Potato Museum

that covers the history of its diffusion from the 17th century to the present day.

Info: Museo della Patata (Potato Museum)[email protected]

As well as potatoes, Bologna is famous for another tuber, the fragrant truffl e “dug up” in autumn in the woods around the city. The truffl e is the king of the autumn kitchen and is celebrated in various events such as “Tartufesta” held in various towns in the Apennines and the White Truffl e Festival of Savigno and the Hills of Bologna.

Info: [email protected]

Worth trying

45 - Bologna &

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PIGNOLETTO DOC Pignoletto is the name of the autochthonous vine used to make this unique, delicious and exclusive wine; it is rightly considered the “King of the Hills of Bologna”. Even Pliny the Elder mentions a wine called “pino lieto” in his “Naturalis Historia”. It is a lovely, light straw-yellow colour with pale green refl exes and a delicate, fruity bouquet. It is dry and with good acidity, it is fairly persistent and can be either sparkling or still. As it is delicate and light it is excellent as an aperitif or for the entire meal. It is also ideal with white meats, fresh cheeses and tortellini in broth! At the end of September there is an exhibition of wines from the hills in Bologna with tastings and other events.

Info: Consorzio Vini Colli Bolognesi (Consortium of the Wines of the Hills of Bologna)www.collibolognesi.it

Castel del Rio & marrons PGI

The cuisine of Castel del Rio is based on the nuances of three different gastronomic traditions that only a border territory boasts. However, the local product par excellence is the Castel del Rio marron. It is unlike normal “chestnuts” given its size and sweeter taste and fragrance. Pureed boiled marrons are used to prepare “capaltéz”, a typical local dish, and fl our made from dried marrons is used to prepare “castagnaccio” (chestnut cake) and “sweet polenta”. The rooms of Palazzo Alidosi house a delightful museum well worth visiting (Chestnut Museum, Tel. +39 0542 95906) and in October the town holds a chestnut festival.

Info: Offi ce of the Municipality of Castel del [email protected]

A toast

Worth seeing

THE EMILIA ROMAGNA WINE CELLARThe Regional Wine Cellar of Emilia Romagna, housed in the renovated cellars of the Sforzesca Fortress in the mediaeval village of Dozza, has been working since 1978 to promote appreciation of the wines of Emilia Romagna in Italy and worldwide. The permanent exhibition has over 800 labels on display and for sale from about 200 member producers. The wine bar also organizes interesting wine-tasting events to raise awareness of the inebriating world of wine. An event called “Wine Forum” is held the last week of May.

Info: www.enotecaemiliaromagna.it

MEDIAEVAL BOLOGNA

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Medicina & onions

As early as the 1960s, the main square of Medicina, a small town in the lower Bolognese area, was the benchmark market for setting the price for onion production in the entire Province of Bologna. The town is also where the Confraternity of the Magnifi cent Medicina Onion was founded and the traditional Medicina onion fair offers visitors an event dedicated entirely to this vegetable.

Info: www.stradaviniesapori.it

Over the centuries, the old town centre of Bologna has managed to retain the colours, proportions and architecture of the Middle Ages; starting with the houses with towers, which are still a symbol of the city. Don’t miss the views of the rooftops of Bologna from the top of the Asinelli Tower, the monumental complex of the 7 churches, known as the Basilica of Santo Stefano, and the old Mediaeval market that adds a touch of colour thanks to its narrow streets, stalls with food products and the chatter of the traders.

Info: Bologna Tourist Information Offi cetouristoffi [email protected]

Ferrara & surroundings

RICE DAYSJolanda di SavoiaEnd of August

EEL FESTIVALComacchioFirst two weekends in October

Events

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•Coppia Ferrarese PGI•Emilia Romagna pears PGI•Green asparagus of Altedo PGI•Peaches and nectarines of Romagna PGI•Rice from the Po Delta PGI•Salamini italiani alla cacciatora PDO

•Emilia IGT•Bosco Eliceo DOC

To eat

To drink

The city of Ferrara gained considerable prestige under the House of Este and to this day is a fi ne example of balance and harmony. The spirit of the Renaissance can be seen throughout, on the streets of the city peppered with dozens of buildings and monumental churches, in the cloisters and gardens and in the many parks and gardens. Since 1995, the old town centre of Ferrara has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site as an “admirable example of a city planned in the Renaissance whose old town centre is still intact.” Alongside its historical and cultural heritage, the court of the House of Este left Ferrara an excellent culinary tradition. Sweet and savoury fl avours combine, the taste shown in preparing and serving dishes

is a pleasure for the eyes and the palate. The cuisine of Ferrara still combines the strong fl avour of salama da sugo with the delicacy of mashed potato and the sweet crust of pasticcio ferrarese encloses the fragrance of meat and macaroni in béchamel sauce. An extraordinary example of the sweet-and-sour cuisine inherited from the court of the House of Este are pumpkin-fi lled pasta parcels (called “cappellacci”), served with butter and sage or meat sauce. Pampapato is a traditional cake made using almonds and candied fruit, but a place of honour goes to local bread, with the famous “coppia” - a temptation diffi cult to resist.

INFO: Ferrara Tourist Information Offi ceTel. +39 0532 209370 - 299303www.ferrarainfo.com - www.ferraraterraeacqua.it

COPPIA FERRARESE

Info: www.ferrarainfo.com

Don’t miss

51 - Ferrara &

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The Po Delta & rice PGI

The fi rst documents to mention rice in the Ferrara area are two letters from Duke Galeazzo Maria Sforza dated 1475, whilst the “Diario Ferrarese” by Ludovico Muratori mentions that “in the year 1495 rice was sold in Ferrara at only four quattrini a pound”, which shows that local production was extremely high and that rice was grown systematically in the lands governed by the House of Este. Rice was a constant presence in the agricultural landscape of the Po Delta where it became the main crop on reclaimed land. The nature of the reclaimed land became a crucial factor in the agricultural use of the same. In recent times, mechanization and the introduction of new varieties have made it possible to continue growing rice. Although on a smaller scale, this system is technically advanced and makes it possible to earn more from this than from other crops.

Info: Associazione Risicoltori del Delta del Po (Association of Rice Growers’ of the Po Delta) www.risodeltadelpo.it

Voghiera & garlic

The presence of garlic as an important product of Voghiera is confi rmed by accounting documents dating back to 1928 and referring to the trade of “garlic and onions” with several European countries. Over 60% of garlic from the Ferrara area is produced within the municipality of Voghiera. It is a good, uniform size and bright white in colour. Thanks to collaboration with the University of Ferrara, the biomolecular and commodity characteristics of the product have been outlined and the top three varieties produced in the area are tested in experimental fi elds. Garlic from Voghiera is awaiting confi rmation of PDO recognition. Every year, in summer, a Garlic Festival is held here.

Info: www.stradaviniesaporiferrara.it

For the past ten years, Comacchio has dedicated two weekends in October to the “queen of the valleys” with an Eel Festival; an event that has become a cornerstone of tradition.

Info: Comacchio Tourist Information Offi [email protected]

Worth trying

SALAMA DA SUGO The origins of “salama da sugo” seem to date back to the times of the House of Este. The main course of ducal dinners, it became popular amongst farmers in Ferrara and then a dish for important occasions. Over time, cooking this “sausage” has become an authentic ritual. It is fi rst wrapped in a cloth and then hung over a wooden stick placed diagonally across the top of a pan full of water, so that this precious product never even skims the bottom or sides. After 6 hours, the external casing is removed and the sausage is cut into slices and placed on a soft bed of mashed potato.


Between September and November, the village of Madonna dei Boschi di Poggio Renatico hosts a tradition festival celebrating this local speciality.

Info: Poggio Renatico Proloco Offi ceTel. + 39 0532 209370.

In July, it is also celebrated in a popular festival in Buonacompra, a small village near Cento.

Info: Cento Tourist Information Offi [email protected]

Comacchio & eels

Eel is not only a delicious protagonist of the cuisine of the lower Ferrara area and Comacchio in particular. In this damp environment, once hostile to man, it has become the main source of sustenance. In any case, eels remain a typical speciality of Comacchio that can be eaten in various ways: from delicate risotto made with eel-brodetto “a bec d’asan” (literally “made in a hurry”), accompanied by toasted polenta. Amongst the 48 different eel dishes possible, there are some highly sophisticated options like sweet-and-sour eel chops, worthy of nouvelle cuisine. However, nothing equals the intense fragrance that it releases when grilled.


Near Comacchio, an old building previously used for processing fi sh now houses a museum where it is possible to see how eels are marinated and then taste this unmistakeable dish. The “Manifattura dei Marinati” museum is also a shop where visitors can buy tinned marinated eels, along with other local fi sh specialities. Info: Museo dell’Anguilla “Manifattura dei Marinati” (Manifattura dei Marinati Eel Museum)www.parcodeltapo.it

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FORTANA DOCThe wines of Ferrara grow on thin, sandy soil. The peculiarity of wines from grapes grown on sand also lies in the integrity of the plant; the vines have still on the whole not been grafted. Fortana, a ruby-red wine that can be more or less intense, has a salty bouquet and is medium-sweet when young, turning drier with age. It is moderately tannic and acidulous and can be either still or sparkling. It is ideal served with fi sh soups, eel and shellfi sh, as well as cotechino, the famous salama da sugo and traditional local pasta dishes.

Info: Consorzio Vini DOC Bosco Eliceo (Consortium of Bosco Eliceo DOC Wines) www.vinidellesabbie.com

A toast

Worth seeing

POMPOSA ABBEYInfo: Codigoro - Pomposa Abbey Tourist InformationOffi ce - [email protected] HERCULEAN ADDITIONInfo: Ferrara Tourist Information Offi [email protected]

55 - Ferrara &

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Argenta & brazadela

Doughnuts were once only made for special occasions; the term “brazadela” derives from the fact they were slipped onto the arm. In fact, sellers carried several doughnuts threaded onto their arms, whilst customers slipped them onto their right arm so they could pour wine with the left. In the past, it was only made for special occasions because it was rich and there was little money for buying chocolate and other sweets.

Info: Argenta Tourist Information Offi [email protected]

Ostellato & pumpkin

Every year in November, Ostellato, near the Po Delta of Ferrara, celebrates pumpkins; a generous fruit that is at its best in the valleys of the Mezzano, the last large area of marshland of the lower Ferrara area to be reclaimed after the Second World War. Here the pumpkins, which are called “violina”, have compact orange fl esh that is fi rm and sweet, making them a delicious ingredient of local cuisine.


Ravenna & surroundings

ENOLOGICA AND EXHIBITION OF TYPICAL PRODUCTS OF ROMAGNAFaenza3rd weekend in November

4 FESTIVALS FOR 3 HILLS: PORK DELICACIES, VOLPINA PEAR AND MATURE CHEESE FESTIVAL, TRUFFLE FESTIVAL, OLIVE TREE AND OLIVE OIL FESTIVAL BrisighellaSundays in November

Events

57 - Ravenna &

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To eat

•Brisighella extra-vergin olive oil PDO•Emilia Romagna pears PGI•Grana Padano PDO•Peaches and nectarines of Romagna PGI•Salamini italiani alla cacciatora PDO•Shallots of Romagna PGI•White Bullock of the Central Apennines PGI

To drink

•Albana di Romagna and Romagna Albana Spumante DOCG •Bosco Eliceo DOC •Cagnina di Romagna DOC•Colli di Faenza DOC •Colli di Romagna Centrale DOC •Pagadebit di Romagna DOC •Ravenna IGT•Sangiovese di Romagna e Trebbiano di Romagna DOC

Ravenna is an extraordinary treasure trove of art, history and culture. It is a city with ancient origins and a glorious past and was three times a capital city; of the Western Roman Empire, of the Empire of Theodore, King of the Goths, and of the Byzantine Empire of Europe. Its basilicas and baptisteries still house a wealth of mosaics dating from the 5th - 6th centuries and eight monuments in the city are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. It has numerous cycle paths, making it easy to reach any part of it, including Teodorico Park, the planetarium, the Garden of Forgotten Herbs or the Basilica of Sant’Apollinare in Classe. The city has restaurants serving traditional local dishes - from the valleys to the Adriatic Sea. The most popular dishes are cheese-fi lled cappelletti, passatelli, grilled meats, grilled oily fi sh and for more curious palates, frogs and eels.

The Province of Ravenna has a rich agricultural tradition, from cereal growing and fruit farming in the plains around the towns of Lugo, Russi and Massalombarda, to peaches, nectarines and kiwis near Faenza, where the hills are also dedicated to olive growing, to farming (mutton and “mora romagnola” breed pigs) and wine growing and production. The Adriatic coast of Ravenna has a number of resorts, like Marina di Ravenna, Cervia and Milano Marittima, where fi sh cuisine reigns, in particular oily fi sh such as sardines, anchovies and mackerel, typical of the upper Adriatic and with extraordinary nutritional properties. The pine forests and marshlands on the coastal strip are part of the Po River Delta Park, an area of extraordinary environmental value and one of the largest and most important in Europe.

INFO:Ravenna Tourist Information Offi ceTel. +39 0544 35404 - 35755www.turismo.ravenna.itravennaintorno.provincia.ra.it

59 - Ravenna &

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Brisighella & extra-virgin olive oil PDO

Emerald green with golden refl exes and tones, Brisighella Olive Oil PDO has a sharp and pleasantly bitter fl avour. It is excellent as a dressing for vegetables and fi sh and to prepare sauces. The area covered by the denomination “Brisighella” has certain characteristics that are different to the rest of the region. In particular, the range of varieties consists primarily in a single variety called the “Nostrana di Brisighella”, which is not found in other regions. PDO Brisighella extra-virgin olive oil must be made using a ratio of not less than 90% of the olive variety “Nostrana di Brisighella”.

Info: www.terredifaenza.it

At the end of November, Brisighella olive oil is celebrated in the town’s Olive and Olive Oil Festival and it is also possible to visit an open-air olive oil museum here. Info: Museo all’aperto dell’olio d’oliva (Outdoor Olive Oil Museum) - [email protected]

Don’t miss

THE CERVIA SALT MARSHESSalt has always been the white gold of this famous seaside resort on the Adriatic coast. It has always been known as “sweet” salt due to the limited presence of bitter salts, which give a slightly bitter aftertaste that is less pleasant to taste. Production has now been recovered so it can be presented as a traditional product of the history of Cervia and its culinary use can be promoted. Sweet salt from Cervia is one of the 195 Slow Food presidia and there is a museum dedicated to it well worth visiting.

Info: Museo del Sale di Cervia (Cervia Salt Museum) www.turismo.comunecervia.it

Casola Valsenio & the herb garden

Info: The Herb [email protected]: Casola Valsenio Tourist Information Offi [email protected]

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Bagnacavallo & Bursòn

Ancient varieties of grapes like “Bursòn” or “Centesimino” have been rediscovered by wine cellars particularly interested in tradition and the territory. These varieties of autochthonous grapes are celebrated in festivals and events like “Figli di un Bacco Minore” (“Children of a Lesser Bacchus”) in Bagnacavallo, an art city seventeen kilometres from Faenza with a beautiful mediaeval old town centre, the fi rst to relaunch Bursòn grapes.

Info: www.romagnadeste.it

Worth trying

PIADINA AND FISH SOUP

A toast Worth seeing

THE WINES OF FAENZA The DOC wines of the hills of Faenza can be divided into several types, including Albana, Sangiovese and Trebbiano. In its passita form (with grapes left to dry in the wine cellar) Albana DOCG, made from an autochthonous vine of Romagna, is an extraordinary dessert wine to accompany cakes or biscuits, as well as mature cheeses. Amongst red wines, classic Sangiovese di Romagna triumphs and is a worthy accompaniment for “cappelletti”, grilled and roast meats and cold cuts. Wines from the province are celebrated in various events in November, including “Giovinbacco in Festa” in Ravenna and “Enologica” in Faenza.

Info: www.stradadelsangiovese.it

RAVENNA AND FORGOTTEN HERBSBetween Piazza Arcivescovado and Piazza Kennedy, hidden behind imposing walls, but open to the public is a delightful little garden. The Garden of Forgotten Herbs is a place where history and nature meet to offer city dwellers and tourists an alternative destination for their walks. The fl owerbeds are full of herbs recovered from prescription books belonging to apothecaries and famous herbs used daily in the Mediterranean diet. The garden is the ideal place for relaxing and enjoying this unusual botanical delight.

Info: Giardino Rasponi (Rasponi Gardens)Piazzetta Ragazzini Severino - RavennaTel. +39 0544 34764

Brisighella & its specialities

Brisighella is an ancient mediaeval spa town in the Lamone Valley, between Ravenna and Florence, which is rich in architectural beauty, history and traditions. Here in July, mediaeval festivals are held and in autumn there are a series of events linked to the wealth of the local gastronomic offer, in particular the superior meats of the “mora romagnola” breed of pigs and mutton, without forgetting truffl es, “volpina” pears and “moretto” artichokes; the latter a rustic variety that has undergone no genetic modifi cation. It is not just an ordinary artichoke therefore, but an authentic gastronomic rarity that the town dedicates a whole day to in the “Moretto Artichoke Festival”.

Info: Brisighella Tourist Information Offi [email protected]

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BASILICA OF SANT’APOLLINARE IN CLASSE The basilica of Sant’Apollinare in Classe, with its world-famous mosaics, is situated about 5 kilometres from the centre of Ravenna. It was built in the fi rst half of the 6th century and dedicated to St. Apollinare, fi rst bishop of Ravenna. The façade has a portico, under which there are marbles and inscriptions taken from the church. The main door has Greek marble jambs and architrave. The interior still retains the charm of its original splendour with two rows of twelve diagonally-veined Greek marble columns. The apse conch is completely occupied by the singular portrayal of St. Apollinare, his arms in a praying position, surrounded by his fl ock symbolized by twelve sheep in a huge fi eld full of fl owers, surmounted by a symbolic representation of the Transfi guration. The basilica is at the heart of an area of great environmental interest in the Po Delta Park.

Info: Ravenna Tourist Information Offi [email protected]@libero.it

Riolo Terme & shallot of Romagna PGI

This typical vegetable of the Province of Ravenna, in particular the municipalities of Riolo Terme, is similar in shape to garlic, but its taste and fl avour recall that of onions. These shallots are grown without using chemical treatments or fertilizers. They are not reproduced through hybridization or genetic manipulation, but only via original bulbs that have rigorously maintained the same genetic complement for almost three millennia. Shallots are extremely versatile in cuisine and can be used as a base for preparing sauces, soups, stuffi ng or as a key ingredient of meat and ham sauce.

Info: Riolo Terme Tourist Information Offi [email protected]

Forlì Cesena & surroundings

WINES AND FLAVOURS ON THE STREETS OF BERTINORO AND LONGIANO Bertinoro - mid-JuneLongiano - mid-July

AUTUMN IN CESENATICO - FISH CELEBRATESCesenaticoLate October - early November

Events

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esena & surroundings

To eat

•Extra-virgin olive oil of the Hills of Romagna PDO•Fossa Cheese from Sogliano PDO•Peaches and nectarines of Romagna PGI•Salamini italiani alla cacciatora PDO•Shallots of Romagna PGI•White Bullock of the Central Apennines PGI

To drink

•Albana di Romagna and Romagna Albana Spumante DOCG•Cagnina di Romagna DOC•Colli di Romagna Centrale DOC•Forlì IGT•Pagadebit di Romagna DOC•Rubicone IGT•Sangiovese di Romagna e Trebbiano di Romagna DOC

The city of Forlì owes its name to the Roman place name Forum Livii. The city’s central position along the Via Emilia has marked its history, making it a fl ourishing trade centre between the hills, the plain and the nearby sea, contended and conquered by outsiders. The old town centre has a charming irregular shape, with the streets radiating out from central Piazza Saffi before broadening into wide routes of communication. The city has always held a special place for culture, history and tradition. The Province of Forlì is an area of great agricultural and farming traditions, focusing in particular on poultry (chicken and turkey) and white meats (rabbit). The poultry farming district of Forlì is one of the most important in Italy and Europe and every two years the town’s exhibition centre hosts the sector’s key exhibition “Fieravicola”.

Crossed by the Via Emilia, Cesena is a city with a lively economy and a splendid town centre that over the years has been returned to its former splendour and is a popular place for citizens and tourists to meet. Cesena draws its strength from its territory and warm and welcoming people who have skilfully combined an agricultural vocation with modernity; the beauty of the city is tangible outside the old town too. In fact, in spring the hills are dotted with peach and cherry blossoms. Home to an exhibition centre that hosts the most important fair (Macfrut) dedicated to fruit and vegetables in the Mediterranean area, Cesena is the capital of one of the most important fruit and vegetable districts in Italy, with a strong presence of companies producing, processing and marketing fruit and vegetables.

Don’t miss

PIADINA AND CASSONI A healthy dish made using frugal ingredients like water, fl our and salt. Thanks to its delicious fl avour and fragrance, “piadina” has always been popular on the plains, on the coast and in the hills. Numerous roadside kiosks have opened to serve this delicious snack. It is excellent alone, with fresh cheese, vegetables, cold cuts and in lots of other ways. The dough is made using fl our, water and salt with the addition of lard to make it softer. It is then rolled out and cooked on a hot plate. Also try “cassoni” - a piadina fi lled and then folded in half, closed with the prongs a fork and cooked on a hot plate.

Info: www.stradavinisaporifc.it

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INFO:Forlì Tourist Information Offi ceTel. +39 0543 712435www.turismoforlivese.itwww.turismo.fc.itINFO:Cesena Tourist Information Offi ceTel. +39 0547 356327www.comune.cesena.fc.it/cesena/turismowww.turismo.fc.it

A territory to savour

The Province of Forlì-Cesena is a treasure trove of farming culture and civilization. From agriculture specializing in fruit and vegetables, farming and wine growing come delicious, wholesome foods rooted in the age-old traditions of the territory. Unsurprisingly, this area gave birth to Pellegrino Artusi, a man of letters from Forlimpopoli and one of the fathers of Italian cuisine. Here, handmade pasta dishes, made using fl our and fresh eggs, abound and include “cappelletti” in broth, “passatelli”, “strozzapreti”, “tortelli” and “tagliatelle”. Romagnola breed cattle and mora romagnola breed pigs, with their characteristic dark coat, provide excellent meats. From the pastures of the upper Rubicone come muttons, traditionally grilled. But there’s more than just meat. There’s also the sea and fi sh, in particular “oily” fi sh, in the food traditions of the province and Cesenatico, whose canal-harbour was designed by Leonardo da Vinci, is its capital. Typical products continue with excellent olive oil from the hills near Longiano, Montiano and Roncofreddo and with extraordinary cheeses that each year, in November, are removed from the ditches of Sogliano al Rubicone. There’s also a wealth of autumnal products; from mushrooms in

Worth trying

BUSTRENGIt is diffi cult to identify the origins of “bustreng”, a delicious cake whose origins are contended by Romagna and the upper Marche region. There are now various types available - starting from the basic recipe of stale bread soaked in milk, every town adds ingredients such as rice, raisins, almonds, walnuts, apples, cheese, chestnut fl our, dried fi gs or even pig’s blood (called by farmers “sweet bustreng”). It is often confused with a millet cake, called “migliaccio”, and there are also various dialectal names for this cake including bustreng, bostreng, bostrengo and bustrengo.


Predappio and Cusercoli, to white truffl es in Dovadola and Bidente. Here peaches and nectarines are at their best and have been awarded European Community PGI protected origin status. Above all, the local bread par excellence is piadina, served hot fi lled with cold cuts, Swiss chard and “squacquerone”, typical local soft cheese similar to another soft cheese called “stracchino” but with a softer consistency. To accompany cuisine so rich in products and fl avours is one of the most important wine-making traditions in Italy. Thanks to the pedoclimatic conditions between the Adriatic Sea, the plains and the Apennines and the composition and variety of the land, the hilly strip between Forlì and Cesena boasts an age-old wine growing tradition, so much so that “in Romagna if you ask for water, they bring you wine”. Three of Romagna’s autochthonous vines - Albana, Pagadebit and Cagnina - are characteristic in this area. But the area’s great red wine is Sangiovese, whose bouquet and structure changes on these hills depending on the altitude and soil characteristics.

Info: www.turismo.fc.itwww.stradavinisaporifc.it

SAVOR“Savor” (E’ Savor, Savour) is very closely linked to the preparation of “saba” (a type of sauce). The ingredients are carefully chosen, each at a different time in the season - melon and watermelon peel dried in the sun and cut into thin strips, diced carrots, pumpkin fl esh cut into “pieces” and the candied peel of various citrus fruits such as lemons, citrons and oranges, walnuts, pine kernels and sweet almonds all fi nely chopped, apples, “volpina” pears, quinces, apricots, peaches or fi gs dried in the sun and roughly cut, raisins and any other fresh fruit. The result is a kind of marmalade with a “juicy” consistency that is the ideal accompaniment at breakfast or teatime with bread and piadina or with fresh and mature cheeses. In Montegelli, on the Apennines near Cesena, this product is celebrated every year in September.


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This is a unique product that can only be eaten and purchased at the “Festa dei Vignaioli” in Predappio Alta every year in November. To produce “La Solfara” grotto cheese, sheep’s milk cheese from the hills near Siena is used. Pienza Pecorino cheese, produced in spring, is matured for two months in the sulphuring grottoes of a disused mine in Predappio Alta. The humidity and particular veins of sulphur present in the grottoes make this cheese strong and creamy, with a unique, delicate fl avour. This is why “La Solfara” is highly sought-after. It is produced in limited quantities as there is little space in the grottoes for maturing. Info: Pro-loco Tourism Information Offi [email protected]

Santa Sofi a & Raviggiolo

Raviggiolo is a delicious soft cheese that should be eaten fresh. It is one of the products that symbolize the Central Apennines between Romagna and Tuscany although, according to tradition, it was fi rst referred to in Santa Sofi a, on the slopes of the Tuscan-Romagna Apennines. It is produced between October and March, on a domestic level and therefore production is limited. Rennet is added to whole cow’s or sheep’s milk and the cheese is then left to drain overnight on fern leaves in wicker baskets. It is not matured and usually served on small fern branches, picked far from the roadside and carefully washed. Info: Santa Sofi a Tourist Information Offi [email protected]

Predappio & “La Solfara” grotto cheese

SANGIOVESE AND CAGNINA DOCThe hills between Cesena and Forlì are territories that have an extraordinary vocation to quality wine production. The Sangiovese di Romagna DOC wine produced here is at its best, an excellent accompaniment to the rich local cuisine. Another typical red wine is Cagnina di Romagna DOC, the fi rst wine ready immediately after harvesting. Traditionally, it is served with roasted chestnuts, sometimes even “drowned” in the wine and removed using a spoon ready to eat. It is a dessert wine with a ripe pomegranate red colour with hints of purple on the edge of the glass. It is also excellent with biscuits and fruit tarts.


A toast

Sogliano al Rubicone & Fossa cheese

“Fossa” cheese has now become the gastronomic symbol of Sogliano al Rubicone and it is appreciated throughout Italy. This unique product is obtained by fermenting cheeses produced in the valleys of the Rubicone and Marecchia in tufa ditches. The origins of this practice are unknown, but documents dating from the 15th century clearly highlight that it already existed at the time. According to tradition, the custom of placing cheese in ditches came about due to the need for local farmers to defend themselves from the plundering Aragonese troops that overran the countryside in the 15th century. When they reopened the ditches, the farmers realised that the cheeses had acquired a new and extraordinary fl avour. Fossa cheese from Sogliano has recently obtained PDO recognition. The production areas cover the entire territory of the provinces of Forlì-Cesena, Rimini, Ravenna, Pesaro-Urbino, Ancona, Macerata and Ascoli Piceno and part of the province of Bologna, namely the municipalities of Borgo Tossignano, Casalfi umanese, Castel San Pietro Terme, Castel del Rio, Dozza, Fontanelice, Imola, Loiano, Monghidoro, Monterenzio and Pianoro. At the end of November - beginning

of December a Fossa Cheese Fair is held in Sogliano to coincide with the opening of the ditches, which traditionally takes place on the feast of St. Catherine.

Info: Sogliano al Rubicone Tourist Information Offi [email protected]

Don’t miss the Fossa Cheese Museum at “Fossa Pellegrini” farm.

Info: “Fossa Pellegrini” Fossa Cheese Museumwww.formaggiodifossa.it

CASA ARTUSI Inaugurated in 2007 in honour of Pellegrino Artusi (Forlimpopoli 1820 - Florence 1911), author of the famous manual “La Scienza in Cucina e l’Arte di Mangiar Bene” - Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well, Casa Artusi is the fi rst centre of food and wine culture dedicated to domestic Italian cuisine. Library, restaurant, cookery school, wine cellar, museum and venue for events: this is Casa Artusi, covering a surface of over 2,800 m in the monumental complex of the Church of the Servi in Forlimpopoli. It is a centre of gastronomic culture that draws inspiration from the heritage of Pellegrino Artusi to renew his teachings, diffuse them and make them more contemporary.

Info: Casa Artusi - Tel. +39 0543 743138 - 749273www.casartusi.it

Worth seeing

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BERTINOROOn the foothills between Forlì and Cesena stands the ancient village of Bertinoro, known as the Balcony of Romagna. Cobbled streets, historical buildings, churches, houses and paths fl ank the remains of the ancient city walls, at each turn offering charming views. Bertinoro is famous for its “Hospitality Festival” which is held the fi rst weekend of September. The celebration originates from the tradition of hospitality, consolidated in the column with rings, and over the years, other events have been added. Today, celebrations include a night of shows and historical re-enactments and an unusual ceremony that takes place on Sunday, in the late morning, when anyone who wishes to can be hosted by a family from Bertinoro by choosing one of the envelopes hanging on the column. The name of the village is also closely linked to Albana; one of the most famous white wines

of Romagna.

Info: Bertinoro Tourist Information Offi [email protected]

Rimini & surroundings

SQUISITO!Coriano First weekend in May

NATIONAL TRUFFLE FESTIVALSant’Agata Feltria Sundays in October

Events

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To eat

•Extra-Virgin olive oil of the Hills of Romagna PDO•Salamini italiani alla cacciatora PDO•White Bullock of the Central Apennines PGI

To drink

•Colli di Rimini DOC •Sangiovese di Romagna and Trebbiano di Romagna DOC

INFO:Rimini Tourist Information BoardTel. +39 0541 53399 - 56902www.riminiturismo.itwww.turismo.provincia.rimini.it

The historical origins of the city date back to the 6th century BC. A port towards the East and crossroads of communication routes from north Europe and the Italian peninsula, it was where Etruscan, Umbrian, Italic, Greek and Celtic populations met. Under Sigismondo Pandolfo Malatesta, a great patron and connoisseur of arts, the city reached its greatest splendour, boasting numerous new buildings and works of art. It gained the name of the capital of tourism, but is now also queen of business and congress tourism. The holiday capital of the coast of Romagna, Rimini is the ideal starting point for an itinerary to discover the seafaring traditions of the region,

even with regards to its gastronomic heritage. However, tourists shouldn’t just look towards the sea; the inland area of Rimini, which spills over into the Montefeltro area in the Marche, reserves equally interesting surprises in its numerous enchanting villages. Squeezed between the sea and the hills, agriculture in the territory of Rimini focuses on vines and olives that reach excellent quality levels. In this area, country cuisine rules and domestic customs and village fêtes recall the strong fl avours of central Italy. Piadina, here in the thinnest version found in Romagna, is not only served with cold cuts but all kinds of food, accompanied by Sangiovese red wine.

Don’t miss

PIADINA FROM RIMINIPiadina is a simple food that unites all of Romagna. This unleavened bread, which in farmhouses was traditionally cooked on hot stones, is a product that has now become popular outside the region, even though it is usually industrially produced. In Romagna it is still homemade, maintaining its differences in various zones, where it is called pieda, pida, pie or pijda. The traditional recipe includes white fl our, lard, rock salt crushed in a mortar - better still of it is sweet salt from Cervia - milk, bicarbonate and warm water, kneaded into dough that is also used for the thinner crescione or cassone. Piadina and crescione are ideal accompaniments for wild or cultivated greens, cold cuts and soft cheeses, such as “squacquerone”, but are also ideal as desserts served with creams, jams or honeys. In the Rimini area, piadina is larger, thinner and puffi er than in other areas.

Info: Consortium of Producers of Fresh Piadina of the Province of Rimini - www.consorziopiada.it

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The Riviera of Rimini & brodetto Sant’Agata Feltria & white truffl e

One of the capitals of this precious and fragrant tuber is the enchanting Mediaeval village of Sant’Agata Feltria, which every year in October celebrates the National White Truffl e Fair. This is a unique opportunity to fi nd out more about this corner of Montefeltro and its gastronomic delights such as mushrooms, chestnuts, honey, offi cinal herbs, sheep’s milk cheeses and mutton. Info: Pro-loco Associationinfo@santagatainfi era.com

An extremely rare booklet dating from the 16th century, written by Rimini-born Malatesta Fiordiano, sang the praises of the richest, most formidable and princely fi sh soup. Numerous treatises had heated debates about which fi sh to use and which to leave out, whether oily fi sh should be used or not, whether molluscs and shellfi sh have any right to be included, whether to use tomato purée or fresh tomatoes, wine or vinegar, pepper or chilli pepper, whether a pinch of saffron helps and whether the fl ame should be low or lively. Besides this diatribe about which ingredients are essential or optional and on cooking methods and times, there’s only one secret to good local fi sh soup and it isn’t really a secret - the fi sh must be very fresh.

Info: www.turismo.provincia.rimini.it

EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL “Colline di Romagna PDO” extra-virgin olive oil, with excellent characteristics of fl avour and aroma, is not as widely known and popular as its quality would suggest. Now the main condiment of Mediterranean cuisine, olive oil was traditionally considered a “luxury” for the cold, tired and hungry world that Romagna once represented, above all in the inland area and in the hills. In fact, the popular cuisine of Romagna mainly used (or abused) lard, a product that was so energy-packed it was considered a sort of “second coat for the winter”. Coriano, a village on the hills near Rimini hosts an Olive and Autumnal Products Fair every year in autumn. Info: www.stradadeivinidirimini.i

Worth trying

Saludecio & porchetta

“Porchetta” (or roast pork) is a small or medium-sized piglet that is boned and fi lled with chopped offal, to which a mixture of pepper, garlic, salt, wild fennel and other herbs has been added. The carcass is then sewn up in “the shape of a pig” and threaded onto a spit, before being slowly cooked in a wood-fi red oven for about 4 or 5 hours. Once cooked, the pork rind on the back is crisp and the meat is pink, soft and very tasty. Although it is commonly considered a product typical of central Italy (Marche, Umbria and Lazio), porchetta is eaten widely in the area around Rimini. Every year in May, Saludecio, a lovely mediaeval town in the Conca Valley, hosts a Porchetta Festival where visitors can taste this dish. The hills near Saludecio, fall under the territories of the “Colline di Romagna” extra-virgin olive oil PDO, home to the largest number of olive groves in the Province. Info: Saludecio Tourist Information Offi ceTel. +39 0541 869731 [email protected]

PECORINO AND FOSSA CHEESEThe hills near Rimini have always been home to fl ocks of sheep kept for their milk which has always been used to make fresh or mature Pecorino cheese. The Pecorino cheeses can also be matured in tufa ditches: this period lasts three months, from the end of August until November, when the ditches are opened and a cheese is removed with an inebriating fragrance and extraordinary nutritional properties, fl avour and aroma. In November every year in Mondaino the cheeses are “removed” from the ditches.

Info: www.stradadeivinidirimini.it

The maturing of cheeses in ditches has been certifi ed since the fi fteenth century. One of the most famous centres of production is the small village of Talamello where Fossa cheese is also called “amber”. A

traditional event is the Ambra di Talamello Fair that is held in the fi rst half of November.

Info: Municipal Tourist Offi [email protected]

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A toast

SANGIOVESE AND REBOLA The hills near Rimini are famous for wine production. Of the red grapes grown here, Sangiovese di Romagna DOC is a pillar on which local wine-growing and production is founded. Of the territories that have grown in recent years perhaps the most famous is Coriano, which has even been called “Romagna’s Montalcino”. Rebola stands out amongst the autochthonous whites, called “Pignulèt” in local dialect. In the past it was also used to make excellent dessert wine, as important wine competitions of the late 19th century confi rm. It is a very interesting rustic variety with medium productivity. What is obtained is a wine with good proof that is fruity and velvety and extremely pleasant. Other autochthonous wine grapes are Trebbiano Romagnolo and Biancame.

Info: www.stradadeivinidirimini.it

THE ROCCA MALATESTIANAThe Rocca Malatestiana in Montefi ore is an imposing symbol of the power of the Malatesta family throughout the Conca Valley. Some say that, from here, on a very clear day it is possible to see Mount Velebit in Dalmatia, on the other side of the Adriatic. Very little is known about the foundation of this fortress, but it is certain that in 1337 Malatesta Guastafamiglia had already made it an important military and residential complex. In 1347, it hosted Louis the Great, King of Hungary and his entire court. Galeotto Malatesta Ungaro decided to add something to the already imposing residence; the extraordinary frescoes of battle scenes and portraits of ancient heroes. In the fortress courtyard, there is a delightful well dating from the end of the 14th century.

Info: Montefi ore Conca Tourist Information Offi ce utribmontefi [email protected]

Worth seeing

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ini & surroundings

THE SURGEON’S HOUSEAt the end of the 1980s in Rimini, in the heart of the old town centre, an archaeological site of extraordinary importance came to light with artefacts dating from the Roman period through to the Middle Ages. It is the “surgeon’s house”, so-called because of the profession of its last owner, a doctor of Greek culture. Destroyed by fi re around the middle of the 3rd century, the domus has revealed mosaics, plasterwork, furniture and furnishings that offer an exceptional “photograph” of life in ancient Rimini. The surgical and pharmaceutical instruments found amid the ruins is the richest collection to have ever come to light. The surgeon’s house has been open to the public since 2007. Info: Rimini Tourist Information Offi [email protected]@riminireservation.it

Gutturnio FestivalCarpaneto Piacentino Last week in AprilA tribute to one of the most famous wines of the hills near Piacenza. An opportunity for enthusiasts to discover more about the history of Gutturnio and the best accompaniments and naturally, to taste it.

Info: IAT Castell’Arquato Via Dante, 27 - Castell`ArquatoTel. +39 0523 803215 - Fax +39 0523 [email protected]

Squisito!CorianoFirst weekend in MayDedicated to those who love to eat well and those who never tire of discovering new fl avours or old traditions. Top-rated chefs, experts and gourmets come together to plot a contemporary map of fl avours. With workshops and tastings of excellent products. To all intents and purposes a feast for the palate!

Info: San Patrignanovia San Patrignano, 53 - CorianoTel. +39 0541 362111 - Fax +39 0541 [email protected]

Wines and fl avours on the streets of Bertinoro and Longiano Bertinoro - mid-JuneLongiano - mid-JulyIn these splendid “balconies” overlooking Romagna, the protagonists of the Food and Wine Route of the Hills of Forlì and Cesena festival are

typical local products and farmhouse produce. Visitors can taste traditional local dishes and cakes and quality regional wines.

Info: Food and Wine Route of the Hills of Forlì and Cesena AssociationTel. +39 0543 [email protected] www.stradavinisaporifc.itIAT Bertinoro Tel. +39 0543 469213 - Fax +39 0543 444588 [email protected] IAT Longiano Tel. +39 0547 665484 - Fax +39 0547 665484 [email protected]

Slow FestivalFelina (Castelnuovo ne’ Monti)Last weekend in JulyThis event takes place on the last weekend in July with the appointments that have made it famous: the “Slow City” route, the craft road, with the best crafts produced in northern Italy, and areas dedicated to exhibitions, the environment and music, with over 20 shows. Info: IAT Castelnuovo ne’ Monti Via Roma, 15/B - Castelnuovo ne’ MontiTel. +39 0522 810430 - Fax +39 0522 812313 [email protected]

Rice daysJolanda di SavoiaEnd of AugustThe event is linked to the promotion of Po Delta rice PGI, of which the town of Jolanda di Savoia is considered the capital, and hosts important initiatives dedicated to both rice growers and those who love this product. The four varieties of rice grown in the Po Delta - Carnaroli, Baldo, Volano and Arborio - reveal all their secrets to visitors. Info: IAT Centro Unifi cato di FerraraTel. +39 0532 299303 - Fax +39 0532 [email protected]

Parma Ham Festival In the municipalities of the Parma ham

Events calendar

production zone (Langhirano, Tizzano, Collecchio, Calestano, Lesignano Bagni, Neviano Arduini, Montechiarugolo, Sala Baganza and Felino).From the end of August until 20th September approx. A great event that, for a whole month, brings to life the Parma ham production zone with tastings, seminars and great concerts, reaching its climax with a fantastic festival in the city of Parma. The initiative entitled “Open Windows” - a tried-and-tested formula of guided visits accompanied by local producers - will also take place during the festival.

Info: IAT Torrechiara Strada Castello, 10 - TorrechiaraTel. +39 0521 355009 - Fax +39 0521 [email protected]

Human DraughtsCastelvetro2nd weekend in SeptemberThe event revokes the splendours of the Renaissance with a game played on the square, marked out as a draughtboard, by skilled starters with real-life draughts and “demons” in period costume. It recalls the festival organized by the Marquises of Rangone in 1564 to honour the poet Torquato Tasso, who stayed in Castelvetro. During the two evenings, visitors will see a procession of soldiers, ladies and knights, archers and fl ag-wavers and the event ends with a theatre and fi re show. Info: U.I.T. Terre di Castelli (Municipalities of Vignola, Castelnuovo Rangone, Castelvetro di Modena, Savignano s.P. and Spilamberto)Via Selmi, 5 - Vignola Tel. +39 059 764365 - Fax +39 059 [email protected]

Pumpkin FestivalReggiolo Last weekend in September.The event offers visitors the chance to taste traditional pumpkin-based dishes from the lower Mantua area and the area near Reggio, such as the famous pumpkin-fi lled tortelli. As well as food and

wine, the programme of events includes songs and various local folk performances.

Info: UIT Guastalla Via Gonzaga, 37/A - Guastalla Tel. +39 0522 219812 - Fax +39 0522 [email protected]

Gastronomic autumn in the Taro valleyIn the municipalities of the upper Taro Valley (Albareto, Bedonia, Berceto, Borgotaro, Compiano, Tornolo).In September, October and NovemberAn autumn packed with events and village fêtes in the upper Taro Valley to celebrate the “king” of mushrooms - the Porcino or cep. Each weekend, the restaurants, inns and holiday farms in the valley offer top-quality menus. By fi lling in a questionnaire, guests can choose the winner of the “Golden Mushroom” prize, at the same time taking part in a prize draw for a basket of typical local produce. Info: IAT Borgo Val di Taro Piazza Manara, 7 - Borgo Val di TaroTel./Fax +39 0525 96796 [email protected],

Showcases, Motors and Balsamic fl avours Spilamberto1st weekend in OctoberThe event starts Friday, with food-themed initiatives organized by AIAB E.R. and OVERSEAS and the screening of theme fi lms. On Saturday, grape must is boiled outdoors by the masters of the Balsamic Vinegar Guild, with a tasting of traditional products, shows and animation. Activities at Flavour Museums, educational farms and production consortiums and a vintage car and motorbike rally on Sunday.

Info: IAT “Terre di Castelli”c/o Traditional Balsamic Vinegar MuseumVia Roncati, 28 - Spilamberto Tel. +39 059 78 12 70 - Fax +39 059 78 12 86

[email protected]

Flavour weekends in BolognaBolognaWeekends in OctoberEvents to promote and taste local food and wine products in the historical city centre. The calendar of events includes:“Lo sfoglino d’oro” - a competition between professional pasta makers who have won various national and international competitions during the year. “Mortadella please”, an international mortadella festival.

Info: IAT BolognaTel. +39 051 239660 - 6472113 - 251947 Fax +39 051 6472253 touristoffi [email protected]

Eel FestivalComacchioFirst two weekends in OctoberA traditional appointment that offers the opportunity to try delicious dishes prepared, using eel and freshwater and saltwater fi sh, by the sailors of Comacchio at the busy food stands. The streets, bridges and canals of the village come to life with craft markets, typical products and themed scenery.

Info: IAT ComacchioTel. +39 0533 314154 - Fax +39 0533 [email protected]

Tartufesta in the Apennines of BolognaMunicipalities in the Apennines of BolognaWeekends in October and NovemberEvery weekend in October and November, 13 municipalities in the Apennines near Bologna offer a packed programme of gastronomic and cultural events to promote the precious white truffl e, which grows locally. The calendar of events concludes with the traditional “National White Truffl e Festival” that gives life to the national truffl e market in the

main square in Savigno.

Info: IAT Zola Predosa Villa Garagnani, Via Masini, 11 - Zola Predosa Tel. +39 051 752472 - Fax +39 051 [email protected]

National Truffl e FestivalSant’Agata Feltria Sundays in OctoberA great exhibition that attracts numerous connoisseurs of these delicious, fragrant white truffl es. Alongside the famous tuber, there are also mushrooms, chestnuts, honey and local crafts. An opportunity to try some of the most sophisticated specialities prepared using truffl es and mushrooms.

Info: Proloco Sant’Agata Feltria Tel +39 0541 848022 info@santagatainfi era.com

Autumn in CesenaticoFish CelebratesCesenaticoLate October - early NovemberA weekend celebrating fi sh with an opportunity to try traditional recipes, fried fi sh served in retro brown paper and a fun market with stands selling various products. An event that recalls the sea and gently envelopes the charming, old fi shing village. Info: IAT Cesenatico Tel. +39 0547 673287 Fax +39 0547 [email protected]

BaccanaleImolaFirst three weekends in NovemberA famous cultural and gastronomic event promoted by the Municipality of Imola that each year focuses on various aspects of the theme of food - culture, history, local traditions, fl avours, the promotion of typical products and the relationship between food and health. A packed programme that skilfully combines entertainment, food and wine culture, meetings, tastings, cookery lessons, exhibitions, guided visits and shows.

Info: IAT ImolaGalleria del Centro CittadinoVia Emilia, 135 - ImolaTel. +39 0542 602207 - Fax +39 0542 [email protected]

November Porc …. Let’s hope it’s foggy!Sissa, Polesine Parmense, Zibello, RoccabiancaEvery weekend in NovemberAn itinerant food event held every weekend in November in the municipalities of Sissa, Polesine Parmense, Zibello and Roccabianca. During these events, visitors will be able to savour the delights of the area, buy local produce and taste, free of charge, maxi-reproductions of the 4 most traditional cold cuts of the lower Parma area - Mariola, Strolghino, Prete and Cicciolata.

Info: “Strada del Culatello di Zibello” Association Tel. +39 0524 [email protected]/.it

A Bit of Flavour - Un Po’ di Gusto Lower Piacenza areaNovemberAmid ancient traditions and genuine fl avours, for the entire month of November the best restaurants and holiday farms in the area offer special menus based on local fl avours.

Info: IAT Piacenza Piazza Cavalli - PiacenzaTel. +39 0523 329324 Fax +39 0523 [email protected]

Enologica and Exhibition of Typical products of RomagnaFaenza, provincial exhibition centre3rd weekend in November

Exhibition and sale of select local wines and spirits and typical products of Romagna. With a number of workshops, tastings and the chance to meet chefs and sommeliers.

Info: IAT Faenza Voltone della Molinella 2 - FaenzaTel./Fax +39 0546 [email protected]

4 Festivals for 3 Hills: PORK DELICACIES, VOLPINA PEAR AND MATURE CHEESE FESTIVAL, TRUFFLE FESTIVAL, OLIVE TREE AND OLIVE OIL FESTIVAL Brisighella, old town centreSundays in NovemberOne hill comes to life each Sunday in November with festivals dedicated respectively to products prepared using pork meat, the rediscovery of Volpina pears, served with mature cheese, precious truffl es, used to prepare traditional dishes, and olive trees and olive oil.

Info: UIT Brisighella P.tta Porta Gabolo - BrisighellaTel./Fax +39 0546 [email protected]

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Mouth-watering breaks in Emilia Romagna