NoToil Gardening

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    S U P P L E M E N T T O

    http://www.organicgardening.com/
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    oL

    http://www.organicgardening.com/http://www.rodale.com/http://www.rodale.com/http://www.organicgardening.com/
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    Revised 2008 by Rdale Ic.

    The ifrmati preseted here has bee carefully researched,

    ad all erts have bee made t esure accuracy. Rdale

    Ic. assumes respsibility fr ay ijuries suered r fr

    damages r lsses icurred durig the use f r as a result f

    fllwig this ifrmati. It is imprtat t study all directis

    carefully befre takig ay acti based the ifrmati

    ad advice preseted. Whe usig ay cmmercial prduct,

    always read ad fllw label directis.

    Meti f specic cmpaies, rgaizatis, r authri-

    ties i this publicati des t imply edrsemet by the

    publisher, r des it imply edrsemet f the ifrmati

    by thse cmpaies, rgaizatis, r authrities.

    Iteret addresses ad telephe umbers were accurate

    at the time this publicati wet t press.

    Contents35

    4 ComeGetYourNo-toilSoil

    5 StartwiththeDirt

    14 FiNDFrieNDSiNtheSoil

    19 BeGiNmakiNGCompoSt

    35 GrowYourowNFertilizer

    40 trYlaSaGNaGarDeNiNG

    19

    Prject editr: Diae Gilry Gardeig csultat: Pamela Ruch Cpy editr: Alice M. Perry Cver

    desiger: Christpher Farrell Bk desiger: Mauree Lga Illustratr: Rbi Brickma, p. 17 (bttm

    left, middle right, bttm right); Jh Carlace, p. 21, 23, 30, 32; Frak Fretz, p. 15; Lizzie Harper, p. 18

    (bttm right); Mariae Sarrati, pp. 3639; Elaye Sears, p. 4547 Pht editr: Stephaie Taylr

    14

    4

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    BACK t0 Contents o R G A n I C G A R D E n I n G . C o M

    pg

    4

    4 n o - T o I L P o W E R S o I L

    Come Get YourNo-Toil Soil

    Start with the Dirt pg

    5

    Can you ever have that super-rich, dark, and nutritioushumus you see in books and neighbors yards? The answer is

    yes! And better yet, the work can practically be done or you!Learn the secrets easygoing gardeners have been hiding.

    Youll be able to:

    Eliminate unnecessary ertilizing Put your bugs to work Compost the quick and easy way Grow your own ertilizer Make the ultimate no-work gardenlasagna-style!

    Then, kick back and enjoy a nap in your hammock while yourplants and vegetables thrive in their no-toil soil.

    Have you been ignoring your soils ertility, hoping or thebest, and wondering whether youve been cheating yoursel out oan optimum harvest? Have your gardens been on a steady declinewhile you keep applying stu rom a bag hoping it will be a cure-all? Do you pile on ertilizer in the hopes o super-enriching yourgarden soil? I so, its time to get serious about your soil.

    o R G A n I C G A R D E n I n G . C o M5

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    stArt with the dirt

    Testing 1, 2, 3All gardeners should be takingadvantage o one o the best-keptsecrets in gardening: the soil testoered by regional cooperativeextension services. The soil test is thevery rst baby step to knock-em-down power soil, plus its easy andinexpensive. A airly comprehensivetest usually costs between $10 and$20less than youd probably spend

    on ertilizer that a soil test could verywell show is not necessary.Tests usually indicate the acidity or

    alkalinity (pH) o the soil, levels ophosphorus and potassium, and levelso calcium and magnesium. Exactlywhat is included in each areas basictest will vary because soils and theirproblems vary rom one region to thenextwhat might be a commonproblem in one locale might not evenbe an issue somewhere else. Believe itor not, soil is multicultural. Simplethings, such as the weather, will aectyour soil content. Depending on theregion, some labs test or substances

    such as nitrogen, salts, sulur, andheavy metals. To contact your regionalcooperative extension oce, check theblue pages o the phone book or alisting or County Oces orGovernment Services or Agricul-tural Extension, or go online to csrees.usda.gov/Extension.

    When you send your soil sample,ask the lab to tailor any recommenda-tions they make to a small garden.(Lab recommendations or remedyingsoil deciencies are designed to servelocal armers and are generally given interms o pounds per acre o land.)

    Micro-MachinesMcu, alug c-

    um ly mall amu, a

    al al f pla.

    F xampl, a pla ably

    l a pl

    l f mcu. A lack f

    mal uc a , maga-

    , cpp, c, b,

    lum, , lc, cbal,

    cmum, , ckl, a lumcul vly u g f

    cp. t ll b ll

    cmplly al g f a

    pla. M l vc

    mcu g f a

    aal f, bu ag a ll-

    u gac cmp yu

    ga ul pv all

    mcu yu pla .

    SolvitaSoilBreathalyzerTestG l ba muc lk .

    A m l k aaly yu

    l ba by ug a pcal gl

    a cag cl xp

    vayg amu f cab x.

    t m cab x,

    al yu l. t slva

    Ga Ca K, ca by w

    e Laba M. V,

    Ma, all yu lf

    yu l a cmm applca-

    f cmp a a

    yc cmcal a m l

    pm. Call 800-451-0337

    v solvita.com.

    Once the soil sample, paperwork,and your questions are sent in, youshould receive your results in acouple o weeks.

    Results are usually in the orm o a

    chart or graph, and reading the results issometimes challenging. Following aresome common things labs test or andwhat it all means. Just remember, i youhave a low reading, you need to addgarden amendments that supply thatnutrient; medium means there areenough nutrients or this season but youwill need to add garden amendmentsbeore next season; high means yoursoil is richly supplied; and excessivelevels mean you need to balance out thesoil.See Adding Supplements onpage 11 or organic solutions to your soilimbalances.

    pHpH is a measure o your soilsacidity or alkalinity. A pH reading

    o 7.0 is neutral; numbers higherthan 7.0 indicate that your soil ison the alkaline side o neutral,while numbers below 7.0 indicateacidity. I a soil is extremelyalkaline, it doesnt matter howrich in nutrients it is becausegrowing plants cant absorbnutrients in an alkaline soil. Mostgarden crops grow best in a soilthat is neutral to slightly acidic(pH between 6.2 and 7.0).

    I you garden in the EasternUnited States, your soil may betoo acidic. Heavy rain washes

    Journey to theCenter of Your Soilt juy c f yu l a

    akg a ampl f g. t

    g accua ul, fll mpl p.

    1. scap mulc l fm

    ufac f l. U a al l l

    lag p lf u a g-ap

    pc f l abu 6 8 c p. s

    a a al l plac bl.

    2. scap 2 3 ablp f l fm

    f l. Kp , g, a b

    u f ampl.

    3. Cla l ufac, g l, a cllc l

    fm 10 15 p aa b .

    4. Mx all l yuv cllc. t mxu

    ampl f g.

    5. Pu l fm bl bag bx

    pv by g vc f pm

    lab. Fll u papk a all .

    o R G A n I C G A R D E n I n G . C o M

    http://www.organicgardening.com/http://www.csrees.usda.gov/Extensionhttp://www.csrees.usda.gov/Extensionhttp://www.solvita.com/http://www.organicgardening.com/http://www.solvita.com/http://www.csrees.usda.gov/Extensionhttp://www.csrees.usda.gov/Extensionhttp://www.organicgardening.com/
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    away the calcium and magnesium inthe soil that would keep the pH levelclose to neutral. In the Western UnitedStates, soils tend to be too alkalinebecause o the low rainall. Thealkaline elements build up in the soilinstead o washing away.

    Calcium (Ca)This mineral is a major component o a

    plants cell walls. Blossom-end rot (ablack, decayed spot on the bottom oruit), spindly plant growth, and closedleaves all may signal a lack o calcium.Acid, sandy soils along seacoasts areoen low in calcium.

    Magnesium (Mg)Magnesium is an essential componento chlorophyll, which gives plants theirgreen color and helps them turn sunlightinto energy. When the amount omagnesium in your soil is in shortsupply, your plants will take suppliesrom their older leaves and move the

    nourishment to their newer leaves, whichneed it the most, causing the oldestleaves to look yellow between the veins.These leaves may dry up and all o.Magnesium can be decient in sandysoils with an acid pH.

    Nitrogen (N)The amount o nitrogen your plantstake in can make a huge dierence in

    how much they yield. Too muchnitrogen will give you big, lush plantswith ew ruits; too little will result inslow and stunted plant growth. Mostsoil labs dont include nitrogen as parto their basic test, because the nitrogencontent o your soil can changedramatically rom day to day and romseason to season.

    Some labs will tell you theestimated nitrogen, based on thepercentage o organic matter in your soil:productive soil should contain higher than3% organic matter. This is a good long-term indicator o how much nitrogen will

    eventually be available to your plants asthat organic matter breaks down andreleases the nitrogen in aplant-edible orm. Symptoms o adeciency o soil nitrogen are pale olderleaves, or plants with stunted growth.

    Phosphorus (P)Phosphorus is crucial to the health andgrowth o plants. I your soil is decientin phosphorus, the growth o your

    plants could be stunted. Unlike mostother nutrients, phosphorus doesntmove reely through the soil, so plantswith small or shallow root systems androot crops such as turnips and radishesare most aected by a lack o thisnutrient; their roots cant extend arenough to reach the little bits ophosphorus actually in the soil.

    Sandy or shale soils that dontcontain much organic matteracommon occurrence in the Southernand areas o the Western UnitedStatesare oen low in phosphorus.

    Note:Some labs will give you a readingor phosphate or P2O5 instead ophosphorus. This simply reers tophosphorus in combination withoxygen and hydrogen, the orm inwhich your plants take up this nutrient.

    Potassium (K)Potassium helps plants resist disease,strengthens their stalks, and improvesthe quality o their ruits and seeds. Lacko potassium can cause the older leaveson a plant to look burned, the growth othe plant itsel to be stunted, and theruit to be o poor qualityespecially i

    stArt with the dirt

    Nutrients and

    Plant Growth: To

    ensure proper leaf

    development, food

    production, and fruit

    and root growth,

    give your plants the

    nutrients they need.

    NitrogenLeaf

    development

    Magnesium

    Photosynthesis

    Calcium and

    phosphorus

    Fruiting and

    root growth

    PotassiumRoot

    development and

    disease resistance

    ThepHScale(ph f

    amma)

    The pH scale ranges from 1.0 (acidic) to 14.0 (alkaline). Most garden crops grow best

    between pH 6.2 and 7.0 (neutral).

    1.0 2.0 3.0 4.0 5.0 6.0 7.0 8.0 9.0 10.0 11.0 12.0 13.0 14.0

    Acid Neutral Alkaline

    slglyalkal

    slglyacc

    Malyacc

    (ph flmjuc)

    (ph fagjuc)

    sgly acc sgly alkal

    Malyalkal (ph fbakg a)

    o R G A n I C G A R D E n I n G . C o M9

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    BACK t0 Contents o R G A n I C G A R D E n I n G . C o M10 n o - T o I L P o W E R S o I L

    the plant is in the bean amily. When itcomes to a lack o potassium, beans arethe rst crop to suer. I your beans havedead or dying older leaves and are givingyou poor yields, lack o potassium maybe the culprit. Low potassium can alsoresult in small, misshapen tomatoes thatdont keep well aer picking.

    Sandy soils containing little organic

    matter are oen low in potassium. Anda potassium deciency can be aggra-vated during dry weather. Roots cantmove as reely through dry soil to ndthe scarce amounts o potassium thatare present.Note:Some labs will giveyou a reading or potash or K2Oinstead o potassium. Again, theseother terms reer to potassium incombination with oxygen.

    Salts (Na)I your garden is in an area whereexcess salts can be a problem, yourlocal labs will test or them (this

    situation usually occurs in the West).One o the tests measures the capacityo waterlogged soil to carry an electriccharge; this corresponds to the level odissolved salts in that soil. I you seesomething called electrical conduc-tivity on your report, dont worryits about salt, not your electric bill!Do worry i your reading is high,

    however. The salts harm your plantsboth indirectly, by absorbing water theroots need, and directly, by damagingor killing the roots.

    Sulfur (S)Sulur is a major component o all livingorganic matter, so its no surprise thatsoils low in organic matter are alsorequently low in sulur. Sulur isneeded or the ormation o aminoacids and proteins in growing plants. Inaddition, nitrogen needs to haveenough sulur around to do its job oeeding those plants.

    AddingSupplementsSo youve taken the soil testnowwhat? Dozens o ertilizer productssit temptingly in garden centers,promising bigger yields, morefowers, or miracle growth. Surelyyou should buy one or two o them tohelp your garden, right? Wrong. Thetruth is, you oen dont need ancyertilizers or special products o any

    kind or a successul organic garden.Overertilizing, even with organicproducts, can disrupt soil mineralbalances, stunt or burn plants, andmake gardens more susceptible topest problems. Also, excess nutrientscan damage soil lie and eventuallyleach away, adding to already seriouswater-pollution problems. So, beoreyou buy and apply, heres a ull

    rundown o the best sustainable waysto ertilize your crops.Start with compost. Compost isyour rst-choice ertilizer because itsthe best ood or your soil and crops.It is also the most sustainable, envi-ronmentally riendly option. Sinceits bulkier than other ertilizers, youapply it in larger amountsbut itsthe only material that provides largeamounts o carbohydrates, as well as

    nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potas-sium (K), and many other nutrients,to eed what scientists call the soilood web.

    Each spring, apply a - to -inchlayer o compost to all your beds. (Invery sandy soil or in the deep South,where organic matter is rapidly depleted,use double this amount.) Adding morethan this is ne or the rst ew years as

    stArt with the dirt

    GettingYourNitrong m mpa u ac. Ga uually

    lag amu, a aly l ug a ga u. i fac,

    vy 100 qua f f f ga u appxmaly 1/3 pu f

    g p a. h a gac ay g yu .

    1. Backyard compost. A

    -c lay ll pv 15% f

    g a;

    mag 85%

    l f b a la

    gaually a . Yu f

    ay fl

    af yuv appl cmp f

    val a.

    2. Fresh grass clippings. Ga

    a vy c uc f g

    a u. Uually, ju

    a -c lay f f clppg

    mx l a 1- 2-c

    lay f ufac mulc clppg

    ll pv ply f u

    f a full a f g.

    3. Other organic fertilizers.

    s-bug gac fl

    ca vayg amu f

    g. Lk a

    umb labl f

    amu. F ac 100 qua

    f f ga, u abu

    10 pu f a puc a

    g c f 3% (alfalfa

    mal) 5 pu f g

    c 6% (yba mal).

    BulkingUpOrganicallyoly gac puc uu l f b. Yu pla a l

    m a ju g (n), ppu (P), a paum (K)

    lv a v. Yu l cabya,

    cllul, a gac ma

    fu ly cmp, mulc, a

    m gac fl. t

    u f baca, fug,

    am, a cau

    a mak c a fl.

    d yu ga a fav af cmp a

    mulc. (s pag 14 la

    m abu lpful

    c yu ga.)

    o R G A n I C G A R D E n I n G . C o M11

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    stArt with the dirt

    you build the ertility o new gardens,but compost releases nutrients verygradually, so youll soon have amplenutrients stored in your soil. I youdont have the time or the materials tomake enough compost, you can getmore at your local yard-waste compost-ing site, usually or ree, or buy bulk orbagged compost rom a garden center.(See Begin Making Compost onpage 19 or more inormation on

    cooking or buying your own compost.)

    Apply organic mulches. In additionto controlling weeds and conservingwater, mulches such as grass clippings,leaves, or straw provide nutrients asthey decompose. In act, mulchingis really an easier, more natural wayto return nutrients to the soil thancomposting. In addition to releasinga slow, steady supply o nutrients,mulches protect the delicate creaturesin the soil ood web rom harmulultraviolet solar radiation. Lookaround in the woods and elds:Mother Nature never leaves the soil

    bare. Only when we cultivate it do weexpose the soil directly to sunlight.Those bags o grass clippings your

    neighbors leave out at the curb areactually a superb mulch and balancedertilizer, all in one. (Just make sure theclippings come rom lawns that haventbeen treated with pesticides or chemical

    ertilizers.) Fresh clippings start to breakdown very quickly, so always spreadthem immediately, in thin layers o upto 1 inch, to keep them rom mattingtogether. Theyre rich in nitrogen andespecially eective with peppers,tomatoes, and eggplant.

    Plant cover crops.Whenever avegetable crop is removed rom aplanting area, sow a cover crop. Oen

    called green manures when grown toboost soil ertility, cover crops convertsolar energy into carbohydrates tosustain the soil ood web. As the cropgrows, 20 to 40% o the carbohydratesit produces is released through theroots into the soil, stimulating thegrowth o soil organisms and makingnutrients available so the crop cancontinue to grow. (See Grow YourOwn Fertilizer on page 35.)

    Use other organic fertilizers only

    if needed. I you use compost andmulches, you may not need to use anyother ertilizers. Nitrogen is the nutri-

    ent most likely to be in short supply.See Getting Your Nitro on page 11 oradditional inormation on monitoringand replacing nitrogen. A soil test everyew years will tell you i anything elseis needed, and then you can choosea ertilizer that will provide the rightamounts o the best nutrients.

    PremiumOrganicFertilizerst fllg maal a ay gac fl a yu ca u f a

    l ca yu ga l c.

    Alfalfa a lgumu pla a faly balac nPK a a may al pla u. i a xcll all-pup fl a

    m f l fam p a pll amal f ay.

    Bat or bird guano mau p fm ba cav abcl. i uually gly lubl a f a p cc. Al,

    avg may b gula pv am acv ba b cl.

    Blood meal a lavly xpv uc f gly lubl g.

    nv apply m a pu p 100 qua f.

    Bonemeal a g uc f ppu. U f a l calvl a l. sc ppu aly lac l,

    ppu fl ul b mx ugly l.

    Fish products. May -ba puc a avalabl bp a lqu fm. ty a uually c g a al

    av fa amu f u.

    Greensand, al call glauc, a aual m mal a paum c f up 7%. i a g l-la uc f

    paum, alug paum ccy a l cv

    gula applca f cmp ga clppg.

    Gypsum (calcium sulfate), a c uc f calcum a ulfu, a l ph ay lm . i ca mpv

    xu f m avy l, bu u ly f ca by a l .

    (Av gypum ma fm yall cap ual by-puc

    bcau may ca xc cama.)

    Kelp meal ma fm gu, a a a g ucf paum a may ac lm. Lqu klp puc a al

    avalabl, mm bl puc f a m balac

    u c.

    Limestone (calcium carbonate) pv calcum; lmc lm- al pv magum. Lm f u ca ph, bu

    a l ul b m apppa applca a.

    Phosphate rock a m maal a al ppu cf up 30%, alug fl labl uually l ly avalabl

    ppu c, c au 3%.

    Soybean meal a faly balac, g-c fl. Ufu-aly, may cm fm gcally g bc-a

    yba.

    Sulfate of potash magnesia, al call lagb, a mmal c b paum a magum. Bcau f pcy,

    m cmmly fu a a g bl gac fl.

    o R G A n I C G A R D E n I n G . C o M13

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    pg

    14

    14 n o - T o I L P o W E R S o I L

    Find Friends in the soiL

    Find Friendsin the Soil

    Your soil is a neighborhood ull o bugs: Some you can seeand some you cant. And, just like in your own hometown, thereare bad neighbors and good neighbors. Unortunately, the badneighbors attract quite a bit o attention while the good neigh-bors usually go unnoticed. When you use a toxin to annihilate

    your aphids, youre making the deadly mistake o possibly killingo some other benecial bug who might have eaten the aphidand saved you the risk and cost o using a pesticide. Call allthose good neighbor bugs to arms! Put the creatures to work,and you might be surprised at the results.

    Earthworms

    We take earthworms or granted becausemost o their work goes on out o sight,deep within the soil. Even Darwinunderestimated these lowly creatures;aer years o careul calculations, hegured an acre o good soil could holdaround 60,000 earthworms. Today,worm-counters say there are actuallyabout 1 million per acre.

    Whats this seething mass doing

    beneath the soil? Lots o good stu. In ayear, an acre o worms can move 20 tonso earth. Simply by tunneling throughthe soil, worms break up compactedearth so air and water can circulate morereely. But the worms eating habits arewhat make them so great or the garden.They chow down on dead leaves, bits osoil, rotting plants, and other nourishingdebris, grinding the material in theirgizzards. What comes out the other endis a magical elixir that increases theamount o nutrients and minerals in thesoil by as much as 10 times the value othe plant debris originally there. Wormdroppings, known as castings, are the

    richest ood your plants roots will evernd. In a decade, castings can add aninch o antastic new topsoil. Wormaction also creates great soil texture.As the worms turn raw organic materialinto humus, the soil becomes moist,loose, and more like ideal loam.

    Depending on the species, anindividual worm may live as long as15 years; however, with all the dangerso the natural world, ew survive thatlong. Dont worry, though, that molesor robins will decimate your wormpopulation. As long as you keepdumping grass clippings, chopped

    EncouragetheWormseam a ca f

    aly ga l. if a-

    m a cac yu l,

    cul ma yu l

    cmpac l gac

    ma, a a b

    a pc. if yu

    g m a lay

    cpp lav a ga

    clppg v yu xgga l, yu ll a

    ca m acvy.

    autumn leaves, aged manure, andother organic matter on your garden,your soil will be enriched by throngs olittle earth-movers or years to come. (For more on earthworms, seeEarthworms: Proessional Compost

    Ches on page 29.)Other FriendlySoil-DwellersThe earthworm isnt the only goodneighbor you have hiding under thetopsoil in your garden. There are tonso crazy creatures that help yourgarden grow. Some are large andmight be mistaken or bad neighbors iyou arent looking closely, and othersare so small you cant see them at all.Let these riendly soil-dwellers workor you, and youll have great humuswith almost no work.

    o R G A n I C G A R D E n I n G . C o M15

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    Find Friends in the soiL

    HowEarthyCreaturesGiveBackActinomycetes a baca a g lg, ca

    l. ty puc uqu, ay mll a a u g f c

    la y acvly upp may pla a.

    Bacteria a pla amalc av ca a

    kgm ju f m. t gl-cll gam glu

    l pacl g, mak u m avalabl, l pla-

    fg g plac, a ga pllua.

    Earthworms ac lk y-by pl, fg l mcb agac ma a lag g a y ul ug a

    mx up l.

    Fungi a cmp a lp bak gac ma

    ca b l.

    Mites, springtails, pillbugs, and other insects and arthropods

    f fug, la g, a lp baca, gac ma, a

    fug ca a-lg capacy f yu l.

    Nematodes a mccpc, mlk, l-llg cau.

    M pc a bcal, ag baca a fug a lag

    pla-fg g. sm pc a ucv, bu cmp-

    c l, g ma ll lp kp ba guy cck.

    Actinomycetes

    Despite their longname, actinomycetesare simply a higherorm o bacteria, similarto mold or ungus.They are especiallyimportant in theormation o good soil and give it thatcharacteristic earthy smell when itstilled in the spring. While most bacteriaare ound in the top oot or so otopsoil, actinomycetes may work manyeet below the surace. They convertdead plant matter to a peatlikesubstance deep under the roots.

    Ants

    Ants eed on avariety o materials,including aphidhoneydew, ungi, seeds, sweets,scraps, other insects, and sometimesother ants. Their everyday movementcan make soil richer in phosphorus andpotassium because they move mineralsrom one place to another as they go.

    BacteriaWhen we hear about them on thetelevision and radio, bacteria are usuallyassociated with contamination andillness. But harmless and benecial

    bacteria ar outnumberthe bad. Bacteriaspecialize inbreakingdown organicmatter and areessential orhealthy soil. Theyare single celledand come in all dierentshapes and sizesspheres, rods, and

    spirals. They are so small that it wouldtake 25,000 bacteria laid end to end totake up 1 inch on a ruler, and anamount o garden soil the size o a peamay contain up to a billion bacteria.They eat almost anything and helpbreak down large pieces o organicmatter, such as shredded leaves, intohumus. Since bacteria are small andnot very mobile or complex, it doesnttake much to kill them.

    BeetlesSome beetles eed onungal spores, someon insects, and

    others on yourplants. Most adultbeetles eed ondecaying vegetables, but some, like roveand ground beetles, prey on snails,insects, and other small animals. Beetlesare easily identied. They have two pairso wings, an upper set that creates ashield, and a olded, thinner back setused or fying. Some gardeners importbeetles when slugs become a problem.

    FungiFungi are primitive organismskind othe Neanderthal men o the plant world.

    They dont containchlorophyll andcant maketheir own ood.They live onorganic matter,breaking it down and creatingbetter soil.

    MillipedesThe wormlike body o a

    millipede has many seg-ments, and each, except orthe ront ew, bears two pairso walking legs. The lie cycleo the millipede is airlymysterious. Eggs are laid inthe soil in springtime andhatch into small worms.Young millipedes moltseveral times, nally growingtheir ull array o legs. Whenthey reach maturity, adultmillipedes can grow to a lengtho 1 to 2 inches and help break downplant material by eeding on it.

    MitesMites are related toticks, spiders, andhorseshoe crabs. Allhave eight leglikejointed appendages.They can be parasitic(or not), and somemites are invisible tothe naked eye. Mitesreproduce rapidly. They attack plantmatter, helping it to decompose. Somemites also eat nematodes, fy larvae,other mites, and springtails, keepingthe populations in check.

    o R G A n I C G A R D E n I n G . C o M1

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    Begin MakingCompost

    Composta simple man-made imitation o how Nature has ed

    breathtaking orests and elds o wildfowers or eonsis an excellentertilizer, a superb soil conditioner, and a protection against droughtand disease. This abulous substance, essential to a great organicgarden, is easy to make and guaranteed to give you abundant yields oood and fowers. Every gardener knows that compost is the gold othe gardening world. The nished productthat rich, dark humusis even called black gold. But, i it is so wonderul and benecial, whyisnt everyone using it? Have you ever ound yoursel saying theollowing? It takes too much time. Its hard work. It stinks.

    Composting doesnt have to be a pain in your weekends.Once you have the basics down, you can use some quick cookingtechniques or aster compost.

    1 n o - T o I L P o W E R S o I L

    pg

    19Nematodes,Flatworms,and RotifersNematodes, or eelworms,are microscopiccreatures that maylive on decayingorganic matter; preyon other nematodes,bacteria, algae, andprotozoa; or attack

    roots o living plants.Keeping your gardensnutrients in balance willhelp to encourage thegood kind and discouragethe bad. Flatworms, as theirname implies, are fat organismsthat are usually microscopic in theirree-living orm. Most fatworms arecarnivorous and eed on other soil-dwellers. Rotiers are small, roundanimals that are divisible into threeparts: head, trunk, and tail. They eed onmicroorganisms and keep the bacterialand ungal populations in check.

    ProtozoaProtozoa are the simplest orms oanimal organisms; they are single celledand microscopic in size. Still, they are

    larger and morecomplex thanmost bacteria.A gram osoil cancontain as manyas a million protozoa.Protozoa work in the same way asbacteria, breaking down organic matter,and are also important or good soil.

    SpidersSpiders, which are related to mites, arethe most underappreciated orms o liein the garden. These eight-leggedcreatures eed on insects and small bugs,

    and they can help control garden pests.Although some nd spiders to becreepy, the spiders benets aroutweigh their bad reputation.

    Nematodes

    Rotifer

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    BeGin MAKinG CoMPost

    20 n o - T o I L P o W E R S o I L

    Home-CookedCompostBy making your own compost pile in thebackyard, you can control what goesinto your compost and, thereore, whatgoes into your soil. And home-cookedcompost doesnt have to be dicult orsmelly. I you add the right ingredientsand ollow the recipe, youll be aproessional compost che.

    IngredientsMaterials or composting are all aroundyou. Many gardeners dont have to lookany urther than their own home or anadequate supply. That watermelon rindrom last nights picnic, those eggshellsrom this mornings breakast, lawnclippings, weeds and plant debris,vacuum-cleaner dustnearly anythingthat once livedall are candidates orthe compost heap.

    Are you discarding any organicmatter? Vegetable scraps, newspapers,tea bags, coee grounds? I youveexhausted the home supply and stilldont have all the compost materials

    you would like, plan some oragingexpeditions, beginning as close tohome as possible and ranging out as

    ar as you need to in order to answerthe call o the compost.

    Dont be araid to ask neighbors,riends, and relatives. Most peopleenjoy eeling that theyre helping theenvironment. In act, by collectingmaterials or your compost, not onlywill you be helping your soil, but youllalso be recycling garbage that mighthave been shipped o to an alreadyoverextended landll. Sometimes

    communities oer ree leaves or shred-ded tree limbs to anyone whod likethem. Supermarkets and restaurantsmay also be willing to contribute theirold or leover organic materials toyou. You have to be careul withmaterials rom unknown sources,though. You wouldnt want to compostgrass that has been treated withpesticides or herbicides.

    Bananas

    The skins and stalks o this tropicalruit are ull o phosphoric acid andpotash. Banana skins also decomposerapidly. Theyre usually a staple in

    kitchen scraps, and adding them toyour compost heap will guarantee lotso bacterial action. Dump banana skins

    ItsAlive!A gl ap f fl l a a cv gula a

    f cmp ca a ublvabl 100 mll baca, plu a

    ag 400 800 f f fugal a, a mll f

    mcb. sl a av cv ly cval cmcal

    fl ypcally ca acally l umb f bcal

    lvg cau. sm l fam paly cmcal

    fl a alm a, ly 100 baca p ablp.

    Lint andsweepings

    Fallen leaves

    Twigs and wood chips

    Wood ashes Weeds

    Grass clippings

    Kitchen scraps

    Pet and human hair

    Shredded newspapersGarden residue

    The search for compost materials begins at home.

    into the center o your pile or coverthem with existing compost or soil tokeep the fies away.

    Coee Grounds

    Earthworms just love coee grounds.They cant get enough o the all-powerul java, so make sure you tossthese leovers on the compost pile.Start your very own earthwormcoeehouse! The grounds are alsogreat or your soil, even without the

    earthworms help. Theyre acidic andcan be used by themselves aroundblueberries, evergreens, and otheracid-loving plants. For other plants,balance out the acid in coee groundswith other materials in your compostpile. Drip coee grounds have morenutrients than boiled grounds.

    Grass Clippings

    Most gardeners have a continuingsupply o this compost material

    o R G A n I C G A R D E n I n G . C o M21

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    considered a true green manure. It isrich in nitrogen and will heat up wellin a compost pile. Add grass clippingsin thin layers, alternating with otherdry materials to prevent clumping.Only collect grass clippings romneighbors or riends i they haventused chemical ertilizers or pesticideson their lawns.

    Kitchen Scraps

    Kitchen scraps are truly a neglectedresource, containing nitrogen, calcium,phosphorus, potassium, and micronu-trients. When adding kitchen scraps to

    BeGin MAKinG CoMPost

    CompostinaBoxt -bx cmp ym pbably

    m cv f m a cuu

    upply f maal uc a kc a.

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    u pl aga, lf

    v g a back

    bx, aga afg

    ay umu bx.

    No-NoCompostMaterialst fllg m ul v b a cmp bcau y

    cul uc amful pag, x, a bgaabl

    maal.

    Black walnut leaves, bark, and chips ca jugl, a cmcal

    a b g f may pla, pcally ma.

    Diseased plants mu b p f gabag bu.

    Ag m cmp cul pa a.

    Dog, cat, cow, pig, and reptile manures (a aca bg)

    may ca paa agu pag a a amful

    uma, paculaly cl, pga m, a ppl

    cmpm mmu ym.

    Gypsum board scraps cul ca pa a uabl

    x.

    Materials from the side of the road, clug ga clppg

    a lav, cul ca plum u, x, a

    bgaabl maal.

    Meats, dairy products, bones, and sh mll, cmp lly,

    a aac amal.

    Paper, pcally gly pap p cl k, may ca

    avy mal. Black-a- pap af.

    Vacuum cleaner bag contents may ca yc cap

    b a bgaabl m.

    your compost pile, mix them well withsomething absorbent such as deadleaves or hay, and be sure to coverthem with soil or nished compost tokeep the fies away. Some commoncompostable kitchen scraps are:vegetable scraps, ruit scraps, coeegrounds, tea bags, and eggshells.Remember: no meat or dairy!

    Leaves

    Most leaves contain twice the mineralcontent o manure. Compost themresh, and grind or shred them beoreadding them to the pile. Theyll decay in

    just a ew weeks or months i you addextra nitrogen to your pile. You can alsosimply pile the leaves in a chicken-wirecage to make lea mold, a terricamendment or ornamental beds.

    Manure

    Chicken and horse manure will addnitrogen to the compost pile. Chickenalso adds phosphorus, and potassium.You can compost manure rom petrabbits, gerbils, and hamsters right alongwith wood or paper bedding. Manureshould be in a cold compost pile at leasta year beore its used and in a hotcompost pile at least 6 months.

    Newspaper

    Newspaper can be recycled in more thanone way. Add it to your compost pile orvaluable carbon. The secret to usingpaper is shredding it. Like leaves, the

    shredded paper should be worked intothe compost in layers alternating withother wet compost materials. Also likeleaves, paper requires more nitrogen inthe pile to decompose eectively.

    Pine Needles

    Pine needles are compostable butshouldnt be used in large quantities.They break down rather slowly becauseo their thick, waxy outer layer. They arealso acidic. Unless you are creating aspecic pile or acid-loving plants, keeppine needles to a minimum.

    Sawdust

    Sawdust is a great bulking agentitallows air to penetrate the compost pile,which helps the process o decomposi-tion. Because sawdust is so high incarbon, it requires extra nitrogen to helpit decompose. Although it takes sawdust

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    a long time to break down completely,small pieces that may remain in nishedcompost will improve the texture oyour soil. Be careul where you get yoursawdust. Make sure it is not romparticleboard, plywood, or any otherchemically treated lumber.

    Seaweed

    Coastal gardeners have a rich source ocompost materials right on nearby

    beaches. Seaweed is ull o micronutri-ents and can boost the health o yourcompost, soil, and plants. Seaweed ingeneral has an organic content thatssimilar to manure but with morepotassium and less nitrogen andphosphorus. Seaweed is most valued,though, or its micronutrient content. Ananalysis o the seaweed most commonlyused ound some 60 elements.Compost seaweed when its wet andresh, and mix it with absorbent,nitrogen-rich materials or rapiddecomposition.

    Soil

    While not a necessity, soil is a valuablematerial in compost making. Soilcontains organisms (see OtherFriendly Soil-Dwellers on page 15)that break down organic materials, aswell as minerals and organic matterthat will help activate the pile. Thelayers o dirt in a compost heap absorbunstable substances produced byermentation and help keep heat and

    moisture rom escaping.

    Straw

    Straw will bulk up a pile. Each strawstalk lends itsel as a conduit or air tocirculate. Dont conuse straw with hay,which oen contains weed and grassseeds and shouldnt be added tocompost. You can get straw rom yourlocal garden center or a armer.

    Wood Ash

    Wood ash is a valuable source opotassium or the compost pile but

    must be used cautiously. It is a strongalkalinizing agent and also increases thesalt content o the soil, so be careul notto create a nutrient imbalance byapplying too much. I you want to addpotassium, use no more than a dustingo wood ash on each layer o thecompost pile.

    Wood Chips

    Like sawdust and other wood wastes,

    wood chips are useul in the garden. Insome ways wood chips are better thansawdust as they contain a greaterpercentage o bark and have a highernutrient content. They break downslowly, so their high carbon content isless likely to reduce the nitrogen levels.Because wood chips take such a longtime to break down, you may want tocompost them separately instead oadding them to your regular pile.

    Basic Compost RecipeThere are many ways to let nature makecompost or youunder the ground,

    above the ground; in bins, boxes, pits,bags, and barrels; in strips, sheets,trenches; in 14 months or 14 days;indoors or outdoors. Nearly all o thetechniques have the same basic require-ments: air, moisture, ood, and warmth.Although you can use ancy techniquesand tools, as long as you keep the basicrequirements in mind, youll createmoist, ragrant, ertile compost.

    Start with air.Although it is possibleto make compost without air, or

    anaerobically, most home compostingsystems are aerobic and requireadequate air to help the pile decay.Without air, many benecial bacteriacant survive to create lie in your pile.The most common method or encour-aging air in the compost is to turn thepile at regular intervals. The more airyou encourage in your compost pile,the aster the pile decomposesso themore requent the turning, the asterthe raw materials will become darkhumus. Burying perorated drainpipe

    BeGin MAKinG CoMPost

    So-SoCompostMaterialsMay g fu avag m a xc a bga-

    abl a cm fm a k ucbu y a ga cmp

    g bcau y bak lly, ma g, a

    a may u.

    Cardboard mu b cpp mall pc f

    yu ag cmp pl.

    Dryer lint may ca yc b a ll v cmp.

    ev aual-b l a b cmp.

    Human and pet hair ca b a mall amu f yu kp

    m a bak lly, ma aly, a a.

    LayeringAroundLayg m ap a ay ay l a ccula ug

    cmp. Lay pl a ap a pull m u vy f ay

    . su alk al mak ga layg maal. ty av

    f c a u quckly ca gac pp a ca

    a. w makg ag yu pl, fll p

    ay a ccula:

    1. Mak a ba f u alk 2 4 c ck.

    2. tp 12 c f cmp maal, fll by c f l.

    3. A a f m alk, a lay f cmp maal, a

    a c f l.

    4. Cu lay ul pl abu 4 f g, g

    a 2-c lay f l.

    o R G A n I C G A R D E n I n G . C o M25

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    decomposers that break down thematerials in the pile need carbon orenergy and nitrogen or growth. Theideal carbon-to-nitrogen ratio is about30 to 1. Measuring this ratio preciselyis unnecessarywith a little experienceyou will gure out what materialsmake or the best combination.

    Generally, carbon is supplied bybrown or yellow, dry, coarse, and bulkymaterials. High-carbon-monoxidematerials, such as cornstalks, leaves,sawdust, and straw, almost always comerom the plant world. Nitrogen, on theother hand, is supplied by green,succulent, gooey, and dense materials. Inthe past, nitrogen was added to a pile inanimal by-products, but with concernsoverE. coli, more and more gardeners areturning to plant sources. Some high-nitrogen materials are alala meal, bloodmeal, grass clippings, and poultrymanure. Fresh clover and most kitchen

    garbage have ideal carbon-to-nitrogenratios all in one source.

    A balance o carbon and nitrogen isessential to the health o your compostpile. A pile with too much carbon willstill break down, but it will take a verylong time. A pile with an overabundanceo nitrogen will also break down, but you

    might have to hold your nose to even getclose to it. The number-one oenderwhen it comes to a smelly compost pile isnitrogen. Rather than being used by thepile, the excess nitrogen escapes into theair as ammonia. Usually, an imbalancewill last only a day or two until the pilecan stabilize itsel.

    Warmth will make speedy work

    o a compost pile. All those goodbugs and bacteria work their best in awarm compost pile. Remember thatthe center o the compost pile will bethe warmest and the temperature will

    BeGin MAKinG CoMPost

    SomeLikeItHoth cmpg fa ay g fm gabag black

    gl. ev ga cl aa ca mak x m bac

    f cmp a. Bu, a vyg, a p

    a c ug a cmpg m. (s t Cl

    Cmp M pag 28 f a cmpg alav.)

    Pros

    Puc cmp quckly

    o pl pac-

    c

    Pv a flyf a ga

    Kll m a amful baca

    Cons

    i lab-vMu a cab/g a

    b cafully m

    B bul all a c, qug mulplpl ag f kc a ulbgg a pl

    Puc cmp l ably upp a ga l

    at regular intervals within the pile willpull air through the pile by naturalconvection.

    Moisture is the second compo-

    nent in the compost recipe. Goodcompost will be about as damp asa moist sponge: When a handul issqueezed, no drops o moisture shouldcome out. Too little moisture slowsdown decomposition and prevents

    the pile rom heating up. Those goodmicroorganisms also need a steamyenvironment. Too much moisture,signaled by a oul odor and a drop intemperature, drives out air, drowns the

    pile, washes away nutrients, and killsall those benecial bugs.

    Make sure the site you choose drainswell so your pile never sits in a pool owater. In hot, dry areas, you may have tosink the pile into a shallow pit to helptrap moisture. Check the moisturecontent when turning your compost pile.I the pile is soggy, add more absorbentmaterials such as leaves or dried grassclippings. I it is dry, give it a good sprin-

    kling o water every 6 to 8 inches.

    Strange as it may sound, your

    compost pile needs food. Andwere not talking kitchen scraps. The

    CompostCropsG u f a cv cp u all llg a gggpla a

    cmp cp! s a av mau cp bf

    . e pull cp u by a, u a cy ckl cu

    a ufac. t mag ll cmp l,

    upplyg gac ma, a yu ca a clppg yu cmp

    pl f a u b. (s pag 35 f cv cp fma.)

    Green manure crop is cut

    and added to compost pile.

    Finished compost enriches the

    soil without any need for digging.

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    Earthworms: ProfessionalCompost ChefsI you let them, earthworms will domost o your composting work or you,in the garden, on the arm, or even inyour basement. So consider them yourproessional ches, taking the rawingredients rom the compost pile andmaking them into a gourmet east or

    your plants and vegetables.Earthworms are amazing. They canconsume their own weight in soil andorganic matter each day. Then they leavebehind castings, the richest and mostproductive compost. Castings containrom 5 to 11 times the amount oavailable nitrogen, phosphorus, andpotassium as the soil the worms ate toproduce those castings.

    Earthworms will naturally beattracted to a compost heap, usuallyattacking it rom the bottom. Thecooler base layers at the bottom o thepile will soon be reduced in size and

    start looking like humus. Field wormsand night crawlers will quickly inltratethis layer, turning and mixing the earthwith the organic matter. They will alsoreproduce quickly, increasing theirpopulation many times over. I the heapis maintained or a year or more in onelocation, the earth below it will becomerich and loaded with earthworms. Every

    time it rains, some o the nutrients romthe compost leach into the soil.Earthworms will mix these nutrientsinto the surrounding soil and stabilizethem or growing plants. This is a goodreason to change the location o yourcompost pile every year or so. Plantsgrown where an old compost heap wasbuilt will fourish beyond what youmight expect.

    As the compost heap matures and thematerials arther up the heap decom-pose, eld worms will travel arther upthe heap as well. Red or brandlingworms will usually food a heap rom

    BeGin MAKinG CoMPost

    PopulationPatrolty fllg cqu kp yu cmp m cmp

    plxacly yu a m.

    1. rmv u lay f cmp ap xp m;

    a. sc m a pll by lg, y ll a

    fa pl.

    2. wa 30 mu all m m l

    ap f cmp ap.

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    4. Cu pc ul yu av mv a muc cmp

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    cmpg.

    6. Cv mmaly gac maal.

    decrease toward the outside, so turningis o utmost importance. When turning,shovel the undigested materials romthe outside o the pile into the middleand vice versa. To keep the pile workingconstantly, a three-box system is handy(see Compost in a Box on page 23).

    So what happens to the hot compostpile in winter? Bacteria become dormantwhen the temperature drops below55F, but, i properly built, your compost

    piles insides will stay well above thattemperature even in reezing weather.Northern United States gardenerssometimes insulate their piles withleaves or straw to keep things cooking.Decomposition will certainly slow down

    in the winter, but a pile built in the alland kept covered should be nished andready to use in spring.

    Almost-InstantCompostIn a world o ast ood, ast cars, and astcommunication, were looking or asterways to do just about everything,including composting. The un part ogardening is the actual gardening. Who

    wants to wait or that orange peel tooh-so-slowly turn rom orange tobrown, to black, to moldy, and so orth,beore planting peas? Learn how tomake instant compost, and youll bedigging in the garden in no time.

    TheCold CompostMethodCl cmpg a ay g fm gabag gl.

    Lg nau ak ca f kg cmp f yu av

    k a gy yu pa. Bu, a vyg, a

    p a c ug a cl cmpg m. (s sm

    Lk i h pag 27 f a cmpg alav.)

    Pros

    n ll maacecuag a-uppg mcbhl gAll maal b a a ll a a mCons

    All u l ug a, u, a xpuMay ak 6 m 1 ya puc cmpd kll n cab/g a balac ac m mg

    a

    Fal cmp a m ucmp pc

    o R G A n I C G A R D E n I n G . C o M29

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    regions, youll probably end up withwormcicles i you leave your compostches outside over the winter. Theanswer to this problemhouse worms!Whether under the kitchen sink or in thebasement, a worm box or bin to houseand eed your worms in the cold monthsmay be just what you need. Here are thesteps to get you started.

    Choose a bin. A standard worm bin

    is a shallow wooden or plastic boxabout 1 2 3 eet. You can also use anold garbage can or even a large plasticstorage container.

    Add a lid.The lid keeps light andmoisture out and the worms in.Form-tting lids work best, but a blackplastic sheet directly on top o thecompost also keeps the bin dark andprevents the worms rom drying out.

    Aerate. Good circulation is key to anodorless bin. Drill approximately twenty-inch air holes in the top and bottom.I you still smell an odor, add a ew

    more air holes on the sides, and raisethe bin on bricks or wooden blocks toincrease airfow. Put a tray under the binto catch any excess liquid.

    Prepare bedding.Tear newspapersinto thin strips, layer until the bin is2/3 ull, and sprinkle on enough waterto dampen the bedding. Scatter twohanduls o soil onto the paper toprovide worms with grit, which aidsdigestion.

    Locate bin. Place it in a convenientspot. Basements, garages, and heated

    BeGin MAKinG CoMPost

    TheRightWormfortheJob

    Red worm

    Red Worms (Lumbricus rubllus)

    and Brandling Worms (eisnia ftida)

    f ug a ml pl ul

    . hv, m a

    balg m ll b kll

    v aay cmp

    pl bg a up.

    Field Worms (Aporrctoda caliginos)

    and Night Crawlers (Lumbricus trrstris)

    B f pc ll aack

    cmp ap fm bm bu

    pf a l af

    avg . ty v

    a acv cmp pl a a kll

    by ag pc m aly

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    m ( abv). ng cal

    ma cl l mpau a

    ll ab cmp pl. if

    y a v a acv

    cmp ap, y ll .

    t a pc uually l

    by am b. ty a

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    ba m lkly b a balg m.

    t a pbably

    m. n

    pc ca uvv

    ay ga a

    fam l f vy lg,

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    b. ty ca b u

    uc amu f m

    qu puc

    cmp a ca lma mucBrandling worm

    Night crawler

    Field worm

    base to top, keeping away rom theheated center, but eld worms and nightcrawlers are more conservative abouttheir travels. Night crawlers like cooltemperatures and will eed only at thebottom o the heap.

    Although red and brandling wormscan work at higher temperatures thantheir eld-living cousins, they will bekilled in the intense heat o an activecompost heap, where temperatures can

    reach 150F. Introduce them only whenthe interior o the pile has cooleddown. Normally this will be about3 weeks aer the last materials havebeen added to create a hot compostpile. At this point, dig holes at variouspoints in the heap, and drop 50 to 100worms in each. About 1,000 worms areperect or a 4- 6-oot pile. In amatter o days, the worms will beeating the organic matter, leavingtheir rich castings wherever they go,and reproducing prolically.

    Using your proessional ches in a coolcompost pile is even easier. I youconstruct your heap so it is longer and

    wider rather than it is tall, you can createa cool compost pile to house tons o tinyearthworms. Shred all your materials ipossible and introduce red or brandlingworms immediately. They will go towork right away and the heap wont heatup greatly because o the large suracearea; the center will be too close to thecooling surace and outside air.

    House Worms:Invited GuestsEncouraging worms in your outdoorcompost is easy all year round i you livein a warm-climate area. In colder

    o R G A n I C G A R D E n I n G . C o M31

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    recognize the original ingredients. I youjust cant make as much as you need,grab a large garbage can or bin and heador your local yard-waste recyclingcenter. I your city doesnt have a yard-waste composting site, you can some-times save money by buying compost inbulk rom garden centers.

    Buying compost isnt as simple aslooking or the best brand. Mostcommercial composts are produced and

    sold locally; you wont nd the sameproducts in South Dakota and Tennes-seeor even in Nashville and Memphis.The quality o commercial compostvaries just as much as the regions itcomes rom. Commercial composts aremade rom whatever local wastematerials are available at the time. Thecontents o one brand will even dierrom batch to batch depending on whatmaterials were readily available when itwas made. In act, i you were to test abrand o commercial compost that scoredat the top o the class one month, it mightvery well funk out the next month.

    Fortunately, a simple look (and sni)can be all you need to nd a good-quality product. Be a compost connois-seur. Your garden will thank you. Hereshow to check out the texture, color,moisture, and bouquet.

    1. The texture should be loose andgranular, with little or no recognizablewood or bark. I the compost isnt

    BeGin MAKinG CoMPost

    porches are good locations. Wormsthrive between 55 and 80F.Order worms. Buy red worms(Eisenia fetida orLumbricus rubellus).Youll need a ratio o 2 pounds oworms (1,000 wigglers) per 1 pound oood waste each week. A poundo wigglers costs about $20.Add food waste. Bury ood scrapsunder the bedding. Rotate placemento ood in dierent corners o the bin.Avoid meat and greasy oods that mayrot and smell.Harvest worm compost. Aerabout 2 to 3 months, add new bedding

    HowMuchIsEnough?Ppl g a a y

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    ga a, ga clppg, a lav, cmmcal cmp

    f ba au a gl maal. A gl g uually

    cmp pply ul maal a a. Bcau

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    and ood waste to one side o the bin.Worms gradually migrate to the oodsource, leaving rich compost on theother side, which can then be used onhouseplants or in the garden.

    Ready-MadeCompostHomemade compost is the best thingyou can use to eed your plants, improveyour soil, and recycle yard waste. But itseems as i theres never enough.

    Make as much compost at home asyou can and use it as soon as it decom-poses to the point that you can no longer

    o R G A n I C G A R D E n I n G . C o M33

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    loose enough or you to spread andwork into your garden beds easily,dont buy it.

    2. The color should always be

    dark brown or almost black. Prod-ucts that are too light in color are likelyto contain too little organic matter andtoo much soil. Its easier to tell the truecolor i you let the compost sample dryout beore you check the color.

    3. Compost should be moist, notdry or soggy. One o composts biggestbenets, once its in the soil, is that itcan hold up to 2 times its weight inwater. But in bagged products, excessmoisture makes the compost dicultto spread. It also means that i thecompost is sold in 40-pound bags (asmost o them are) and you buy a wetproduct, youll be paying or water, notcompost. Liing the bag will give youa good idea o its moisture content. Iit eels like a big glob, the compost isprobably too wet; i it eels loose, it isprobably drier.

    4. Ideally, mature compost will

    have a nice earthy smell, butthis isnt a reliable test or baggedcompostat least not right away.

    The plastic bags restr ict the oxygensupply to the organisms that releasethe earthy odor. I you do nd anearthy, woodsy odor, youve prob-ably struck black golda mature,good-quality compost. Most baggedcomposts will probably have a slightmusty or barnyard odor when you rstopen them, and thats ne. Avoid anyproducts that have a strong, unpleas-ant smell. The scent o ammonia or

    sewer gas indicates immature compostthat might damage plants. I youdont want to smell it, dont put it onyour garden. Some stores may not letyou inspect a bag beore you buy it. Iyou take a bag home and nd its notup to these standards, either take itback or dump it onto your home pileto dilute and ully compost.

    5. If you need a large amount of

    compost, its probably worth yourtime to insist on seeing lab-testedresults. Gardeners have a right toexpect good-quality compost, ullytested and correctly labeled.

    Keep your eyes open and your noseat the ready when buying baggedcompost. It might be the astest way toget black gold, but it is also the astestway to get ools gold.

    pg

    35Grow YourOwn Fertilizer

    As your gardens most valuable asset, the soil deserves yourattention and protection all year round. With cover cropsa.k.a.

    green manureyou can build the soils ertility, texture, andbenecial microbe population, as well as prevent weeds romtaking over during the o-season. And you dont need to have alarge plot or a degree in agronomy to use cover crops eectively.

    These ve cover-cropping strategies work well in gardens o anysize and under a wide range o conditions. Planting and turningunder cover crops is a little extra workthough with a small til-ler, garden ork, or shovel the job isnt too toughbut youll berewarded later on with less weeding and ertilizing, and soil thatsa joy to work.

    o R G A n I C G A R D E n I n G . C o M35

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    Grow YoUr own FertiLizer

    3 n o - T o I L P o W E R S o I L

    Cereal Ryeand Hairy Vetcha perFeCt pair

    Cereal rye (Secale cereale L.) and hairyvetch (Vicia villosa Roth) are two cropsthat work together as soil-builders.

    Like other small grains, rye creates adense groundcover quickly, comple-menting the vetchs slow initial growthand providing winter groundcover

    while the vetch begins to x nitrogen. Ryes dense, brous root massanchors soil to prevent erosion, whilehairy vetchs taproot houses nitrogen-xing soil bacteria, scavenges nutrientsrom deep in the soil, and carvespassages in the soil or drainage.

    Rye complements vetchs highnitrogen content with carbon-richmaterial that will add organic matterwhen turned under.

    Rye is also allelopathic, which meansit inhibits the germination o otherseedsreducing your weed worries.Allow it about 3 weeks to decompose

    beore planting your ollowing crop.

    Hardiness. Rye grows at lowtemperatures, making it convenientor all planting. Hairy vetch is quitewinter-hardy also, provided youchoose seed that was grown locally, or

    north o your location. Rye shelters itrom cold, while giving it a structureto climb or access to sunlight.

    Planting. Plant about 1 pounds orye and pound o hairy vetch per1,000 square eet; then rake soil over it.

    Turning under.Turn the crop underbeore the vetch fowers and the ryeorms tough stems (aer heading).However, the more growth you allowprior to fowering, the more nitrogenyoull get out o the vetch.

    hay vc

    Cal y

    Cm

    clv

    vegetables, or three reasons: weedsuppression, nitrogen xation, and abenecials attraction. Sprinkle crim-son clover seeds under your tomatoesin spring and let it ll in the spacesbetween plants, says Pam Ruch,manager o the OGTest Garden nearEmmaus, Pennsylvania. The cloverblooms the ollowing spring.

    Crimson CloverSpriNG-BloomiNGBeautY

    This clovers deep crimson fowers areeye-catching, not to mention bee-

    catching. Crimson clover (Trifoliumincarnatum L.) draws pollinators andother benecial insects to prey onpests lurking near your vegetable crops.

    Planting. Planted at about poundper 1,000 square eet, it can potentiallyx upwards o 100 pounds o nitrogenper acre. Broadcast the tiny seeds andrake them gently into the soil. Plantcrimson clover in late summer ormidspring incorporation.

    Living mulch.Try crimson clover asa living mulch, interspersed in your

    oa

    OatsDiverSiFY

    Cover crops rom the grass amilysuch as oats, rye, or sudangrass helpdiversiy the rotations in the garden,since most o the crops we plant in thehome garden are broadleaves, saysSteve Zwinger, research specialist at

    North Dakota State University.

    Soil tolerance. Oats (Avena sativa L.)are tolerant o wet, heavy, and poorlydrained soils.

    Planting. Plant oats in late sum-mer or early all, allowing them tomature beore rost sets in. Sow 2 to2 pounds per 1,000 square eet.

    Die-back. Oats die back with a hardrost, leaving beautiully thick strawmulch by spring. Just dig holes intoyour oat straw and no-till plant yourspring crop into it, adding compost ornitrogen. Or you can dig the residueunder, wait a couple weeks, and plantyour ollowing crop.

    o R G A n I C G A R D E n I n G . C o M3

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    Grow YoUr own FertiLizer

    sgum-uaga

    Bucka

    BuckwheatSpeeDYSeeDS

    Sometimes called a smother cropbecause it shoots up ast enough that itshades out weeds with its broad leaves,buckwheat (Fagopyrum esculentumMoench) is your ideal nonlegumesummer cover crop. Plant it aer youpull out your early crops, and turn itunder beore planting greens in late

    summer, says Ruch. Buckwheat growsand fowers in just 6 weeks, and thefowers attract lots o pollinators.Broadcast 1 to 2 pounds per1,000 square eet.

    Bee-nicials. Dave Wilson, researchagronomist at the Rodale Institute,has observed the visible pollinatorsbuckwheat draws: Honeybees andbumblebees are noticeable bio-indicators because they are big enoughto see easily; i they are there, youknow that many other benecial

    insects are there as well.

    Bonus. Buckwheat also increases soilcalcium, available phosphorus, andpotassium.

    or tillersthe young tillers are not astough as mature ones, and they willdecompose more easily, says Wilson.

    Test-gardener approval. In ourtest garden, we renovateda bed thathad a severe thistle problem by plant-ing Piper sudangrass in late spring,

    cutting it back 3 eet in summer, andletting it die in winter, Ruch reports.The bed is now thistle-ree, and thesoil is beautiul.

    Cover crops: Also called greenmanures, these crops can improve eventhe most troublesome soils.

    eaSeYourtrouBleS

    Plant sorghum-sudangrass (Sorghumbicolor(L.) Moench S. bicolorvar.

    sudanense) i you want to recover atroubled plot with the maximumorganic matter and allelopathy o awarm-season cover crop.

    Managing.Sow 1 pound per1,000 square eet. I you whack it back

    once during the summer when its 3 to4 eet tall, youll stimulate increased rootgrowth to deeper levels, which is verygood or building organic matter andimproves the soil tilth and soil structure.Doing this will make it grow new stems,

    Sorghum-Sudangrass

    o R G A n I C G A R D E n I n G . C o M39

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    Getting StartedCreating any kind o garden, whethertraditional or lasagna, starts with twobasic questions: What do you want togrow, and where will you put thegarden? I you have a large property, youprobably have your choice o sites. Inthis case, you can rst decide what youdlike to grow, then choose a spot that tsthe needs o those plants. I you want to

    raise vegetables, or instance, youll lookor a spot thats open and sunny, so youcan grow the widest variety o crops.

    Those o you with limited space arebetter o choosing a site rst, thenselecting the plants that will thrive in thegrowing conditions that spot has tooer. Sure, most plants will grow inless-than-ideal conditions. But theiryield or fowering will be less thanoptimal, and theyll be more prone topests and diseases. By matching theplants to the site, youll be well on yourway to creating a naturally healthy, top-producing, easy-care garden.

    I you have plenty o possible sites or

    a new garden, it can be dicult todecide on the perect spot. Start with aplan o your propertynothing ormal,just an outline o the property drawnroughly to scale, with buildings, thedriveway, and other permanent eatures(such as trees, large shrubs, play areas,patios, and walkways) sketched in. Makea ew photocopies o this base plan, soyou can make notes on one copy andpencil in dierent garden layouts onanother copy without messing up theoriginal. Take a copy o your base planand head out to your yard. Now, take agood look around.

    Sun and shade.The easiest thingsto observe are the shade patterns castby trees, buildings, and other eatures.On your plan, use a pencil or crayonto color in the areas that are in shade.Actually, its smart to repeat thisexercise in the morning, at midday,and again in the aernoon, so youcan get an accurate assessment o howmany hours o sunlight the dierent

    areas get during the day.A site thats in ull sun or 8 or morehours every day gets enough light tosupport a wide variety o vegetables,ruits, herbs, and fowers. Many o thesame plants can get by on 6 to 8 hourso sun, although they may not yield asmuch or fower as generously as whengrowing in ull sun. Spots with lessthan 6 hours o sun a day can stillsupport great gardens, but youll needto choose your plants more careully tond the ones that thrive in somewhatshady spots.

    Water and wind. Next, take a closer

    look at the ground. As you walkaround, note any areas where waterorms puddles aer a heavy rain or

    trY LAsAGnA GArdeninG

    pg

    40

    40 n o - T o I L P o W E R S o I L

    Try LasagnaGardening

    From the pages of her best-selling bookLasagna Gardening,Patricia Lanza explains the who, what, when, where, why, andhow o the easiest no-toil garden soil you will ever meet. Nodigging. No tilling. No weeding. Super soil and super yields or

    the hammock-bound or the overworked!No, it doesnt mean growing your own lasagna! Lasagna

    gardening is a nontraditional, organic layering method you canuse to create better soil while keeping your gardens neat andattractive. (The name comes rom the layers youll be making tocreate your bedsthey might remind you o making lasagna.)Based on a commonsense approach and readily available naturalingredients, lasagna gardening is an easy, time-saving wayto install and maintain anykind o garden without re-moving the sod, digging,or tilling. Close plantingand generous mulchinggreatly reduce the timeneeded or watering andweeding. And becauseo the healthy growingenvironment, lasagnagardens attract ewergarden pests. Using nopower tools, heavyequipment, or expensiveadditives, one person caneasily create and enjoy ahealthy, productive garden.

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    o R G A n I C G A R D E n I n G . C o M41

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    spots that eel soggy underoot,and mark them on your plan. Thesepoorly drained spots are less thanideal or most garden plants becausesoggy soil tends to rot rootsitsbetter to choose a drier site or yourlasagna garden.

    Think about how the wind blowsthrough your property. Some wind isgood, since it circulates air around your

    plants and helps leaves and stems dryquickly aer rain, discouraging diseases.An open site thats requently exposedto strong gusts can be a problem,though, since the wind draws water outo plants quickly and may cause them towilt. Wind can also knock down tallerplants. I you live on top o a hill oranother requently windy location,choose a site where your lasagna gardenwill be sheltered by shrubs, trees, aence, or a building.

    Once youve decided on a spot oryour garden, and you have some idea owhat you want to grow, its time to take

    a closer look at your soilspecically,its pH. Use the techniques suggested inTesting 1,2,3 on page 6 to take a soilsample and ready it or the soil-testinglab. Or you can rely on a simple hometest kit that lets you check your gardenspH. With lasagna gardening, you havetotal control over what goes into yoursoil, so you can build soil that is prettynear perect or growing most homecrops. Whichever testing approach you

    take, be sure to jot down whateverresults you end up with. Youll reer tothese notes later, as you choose andapply your lasagna ingredients.

    GatheringIngredients andMaking LasagnaThe key ingredients in any lasagnagarden are organic materials. Theseinclude shredded leaves and othermulches; compost; and other materialsrecycled rom garden and householdwastes, such as grass clippings, coeegrounds, and vegetable peelings. Gather

    as much o these nutrient-rich materialsas you can rom your own property, andsee i your neighbors are willing to shareany organic materials they dont use ortheir own gardens.

    The RecipeMulch is a main ingredient in lasagna

    gardening. Understanding mulchwhat

    it is, what it does, what organic materials

    make good mulch, and where to get

    themis the rst step in becoming a

    committed lasagna gardener. What ismulch, and what does it do? Basically, a

    mulch is anything that covers and shields

    trY LAsAGnA GArdeninG

    Make notes. Jot down comments about your soil conditions, shade patterns, and

    other observations on a copy of your yard map. It will help you identify a good site

    now and will be handy for planning future gardens.

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    cca a gl m.

    o R G A n I C G A R D E n I n G . C o M43

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    your soil rom baking sun, drying wind,

    and pounding rain. This could include alayer o chopped leaves, a sheet o black

    plastic, or even closely spaced plants. But

    or the purposes o lasagna gardening,

    were specically interested in organic

    mulches. While these mulches cover

    and protect the soil, they also release

    materials that eed earthworms and

    other helpul soil organisms. In turn,

    these organisms release nutrients in a

    orm that plant roots can absorb. Thinko it this way: Organic mulches eed your

    soil, and the soil eeds your plants.

    What are some good, easy-to-useorganic mulches, and where do you getthem? Some o the most popular ones arelisted in Lasagna Mulch Materialsbelow. One o the most useul mulches isnewspaper. Dispose o all the colored andglossy pages and keep the regular part othe paper. What used to be a disposalproblem becomes a great source o reemulch or your lasagna garden.

    Its also worth looking into regionallyavailable mulches. I you live in a ruralarea you probably have easy access to

    gardeners in your area. When youdevelop a mulch mentality, youll start

    nding mulch materials in the mostunlikely places!Most o us spend a lietime disposing

    o our waste products rom home andgarden as quickly as possible. You mayhave a garbage disposal where you pushkitchen scraps out o sight. Yard waste isbagged and put out on the curb. Butonce you start lasagna gardening, youllrealize that youve been throwing awayvaluable organic matterand paying orthe privilege. Sure, it will take a bit otime to change old habits, but its worththe eort. Mulch and compost makeyour garden come alive!

    trY LAsAGnA GArdeninG

    Lasagna Mulch Materialsh a l f g a ca bul lay f a laaga ga.

    sm a ly avalabl; may b cmm ly ca

    g. U l g a, bu b lm by . May

    ga mulc maal a avalabl f yu lk au f m.

    CmpGa clppgLavMau (mu b fully cmp)npap

    straw. Coastal gardeners can gatherseaweed. I you live near a brewery oreed mill, you might be able to get spenthops, buckwheat hulls, or other by-products ree or the hauling, or or justa ew dollars. To nd sources or theselocally available materials, talk to other

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    5FastUsesforCompostt a a ga

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    1 Wood ash

    2 Compost

    3 Chopped leaves

    4 Compost

    Lasagna garden layers: The exact materials you use to create your

    own lasagna beds will depend on what you have readily available.

    5 Grass clippings

    Compost

    Soil

    Compost

    9 Barn litter

    10 Compost

    11 Newspaper

    12 Sod

    1

    2

    3

    4

    5

    9

    10

    11

    12

    o R G A n I C G A R D E n I n G . C o M45

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    Building Your LayersYouve selected the perect site andassembled all your ingredients, so letsget this lasagna garden started! First,mark the outline o the garden on theground, with either stakes and string ora sprinkling o four. An area roughly4 8 eet wont take a lot o ingredientsbut will give you room to grow severaldierent crops.

    For the rst layer, youll need

    something heavy to choke out thegrass and weeds. Try thick pads o wetnewspaper. (Soak it in a large plasticbucket.) Lay them close together, sothe edges overlap slightly, to keepweeds rom sneaking through. Anothergood option is fattened, overlapping

    cardboard boxes. Next, add a 2- to3-inch layer o compost to cover thepaper or cardboard. Now, spread a4- to 8-inch layer o organic mulchmaterial over the compost. Addanother layer o compost, another layero mulch, and so on, until the beds are18 to 24 inches high. Top the layerswith a scattering o bonemeal andwood ash to provide extra phosphorusand potassium. Thats it!

    The exact materials youll use or yourlasagna depend on what you have readilyavailable. Depending on the season,youll probably use somewhat dierentlayersthe results will be the same.Whatever you decide will be right: Theimportant thing is to do it!

    o R G A n I C G A R D E n I n G . C o M4

    Lasagna gardening can be startedin either spring or all, but thelayering techniques as well as thematerials are a little dierentdepending on the season in whichyoure working. In spring, youvealready spent months staring out othe windows. Youve had plenty otime to choose a spot or a newlasagna garden. As soon as the grounddries enough or you to start spring

    cleanup, you can mark the new spot,lay down newspaper, and begin thelasagna process. Theres quite a lot omaterial in the spring to get a lasagnagarden going. I you didnt getaround to cleaning up the previousall (which is ne, as the stalks and

    trY LAsAGnA GArdeninG

    Simple seedbeds:

    Spread a row or patch of

    sifted nished compost

    where you want to

    plant. Sow the seed on

    top, cover with more

    compost, then press

    down to rm the bed.

    FallPlantingforFlowersandHerbsFall ju f plag

    vgabl al a ga

    m f cl-

    la a b,

    uc a calula (Caln-

    dula ocinalis), pay,

    cv, a paly. i cl

    clma, y cm up

    pg; am-clma

    ga ll pla

    a blm .

    No-dig planting: Pull back the layers with

    your hands, pop in a plant, and pull the mulch

    materials back around the roots.

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    4 n o - T o I L P o W E R S o I L

    200999401

    seedheads provide ood or the birds),clean the gardens as soon as theground thaws in spring and add this

    debris in layers to a new garden. Thisis also a good time to empty yourcompost bins. The material has had allwinter to break down, so it should benice and crumbly. Stockpile bags oleaves collected rom the curb in the allor spring use. Once youve built thelayers, you can plant right away or let it

    cook rst, like your compost pile.For the organic gardener, all is thebountiul season. Leaves are thebackbone o a new lasagna garden, aswell as the compost pile. In act, youcan use our times as many choppedleaves as any other organic matter.

    Youve heard the expression make hay

    while the sun shines? In autumn,collect leaves till the snow alls. Fallis the time o year when you can makereal strides in soil building. Whether

    you are starting a new lasagna gardenor rebuilding an existing one, just layon as many layers o organic materialas you can nd. Worms are your

    hardworking soil cultivators, and the

    lasagna layers provide a generoussupply o worm ood. You can plantall-built lasagna gardens right away,

    let them cook rst, or just leavethem to break down naturally overwinter or spring planting.

    Planting in LasagnaA lasagna garden thats been cooked,or le to decompose, will be dark andloose like deeply dug soil, so you can

    set out plants or sow seeds just as youwould in a traditional garden. Youdont have to wait to plantyou canbuild the garden and plant it all in thesame day.

    To plant in a new bed, pull the layersapart, set the plant in the hole, pull themulch around the roots, and water

    thoroughly. To sow seeds in a newlasagna garden, spread ne compost andthen set the seeds on the surace. Simore compost to cover the seeds, andpress down. When the plants have twotrue leaves (the leaves that orm aer therst pair o seed leaves), pull some othe coarser mulch around them to keep

    the soil moist and weed-ree.

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