Panzer Aces 32

BIMOnTHLYno. 32

no.3

2

9771886446008

00032

www.euromodelismo.com

PORTADA 32 ING:PORTADA 19 ING 10/05/13 13:21 Pgina 1

We start a new series of Model Laboratory with a Sd.Kfz.171 Panther and the intention of offer youan exhaustive step by step of the realization of this model kit, from the building to the painting.

Also you can find some profiles and a gallery with Panthers of several authors.

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32pag

Wellington House, 157 Snargate Street, Dover, Kent CT17 9BZwww.historexagents.com

Accion press

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Australian M13/40

We have here interesting piece of work on an Italian tank employed by Australian forces onnorthern Africa. It is accompanied by several color profiles were several camouflage versions aresuggested.

Kleine Panzerbefehlswagen

This armored command vehicle was used by the Germans in northern Africa and it stands outfor the extreme wear of its paintjob and some very interesting effects. The review is capped off

with a number of color profiles depicting different camouflage schemes for this vehicle.

PTO SHERMAN

M4A2 of the US Marines placed on the Pacific theater of operations. This is an exampleof building a kit out of the box without further complications.

MODELLING LESSONS: Adapting decals

Demonstrating a simple method for adapting decals to a rugged surface.62

Type 95 HA-GO

This is one of the small Japanese tanks destroyed in the battle of Iwo Jima. Thepainting techniques are simply excellent. Afterwards well find a photographic reviewwere we can see a number of real life details of the real vehicle.

Karl Brommann

A magnificent figure portraying commander Karl Bromman, the Untersturmfhrer of the1. Kp. from the sch. SS-Pz.Abt. 503.

With all the power

Diorama centered on the battle for Berlin. The stars of this diorama are a T-34/85 andseveral Soviet soldiers in action.

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40

14

46

54

Hotchkiss H-39

The last units manufactured of this vehicle were sent to the front without camouflage,these units only had a layer of red priming paint. A singular kit in terms of quality andoriginality.

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2The logic evolution of the M11/39 was the carro armato (a middle weightvehicle 13 tons in 1940). The first prototypes were available on the first part of

that year and soon mass production was secured from Fiat-Ansaldo. It wasequipped with a turret armed with an M37 L/32 47mm gun (In the M11/39 theprincipal weapon was placed on the right side of the hull), and had a secondarygroup of Breda 38 8mm machine guns, one of them was co-axial with the main

gun, another one on the roof of the turret and two on a global assembly located tothe right of the drivers seat.

By: Antonio Toms Aguilera Cano Pictures by the author Color Profiles: Carlos de Diego Vaquerizo

Zvezda 1/35

he protection offered by thearmoring to the four crew men(40mm in the thickest parts)

was not very good when compared toother vehicles of the era. This situationwas worsened by the lack of resistanceto tension of the planks and theassembly of this with bolts. The SPA125 h/p diesel motor was not powerfulenough for the vehicles weight andthe air filters couldnt prevent sandfrom getting to the motor, which final-ly harmed it. The bad reputation of theM series was largely due to theM13/40. Finally, the model M14/41incorporated better filters and a better,more powerful motor.

Nicknamed motrorized coffins bythe Germans, we can say in defense ofit, that originally these vehicles weredesigned to operate on the northernItalian mountain area were the RegioEsercito planned to fight as opposedto the radically different north Africanclimate.

These vehicles were captured in fairnumbers by the forces commanded byGeneral OConnor during the operationCompass that took place betweenthe latter part of 1940 and the begin-ning of 1941. The vehicles were givento the 6th British Royal Tank Regimentand the 6th Australian Cavalry Regi-ment. The squadrons of the latter onecalled Dingo, Rabbit and Wom-bat, painted huge white kangaroos onthe turret and the hull of the tanks to

TT

3

When getting rid of the supplement

on the turret I left a hole which was

filled with a plastic tube and liquid

glue. The assembly lines between the

armored planks have been cut with a

scriber and the support for the anti

aircraft machine gun has been built

with Evergreen plastic strips and

rods.

The cover of the radiator has been

rebuilt with Plasticard and the cover

has been placed forward. On the rear

you should place two spare wheels.

The suspension arches have been

rebuilt with Plasticard strips and the

sprockets included in the

Modelkasten track set. The moorings

and handles to enter the vehicle are

made of thick copper wire.

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avoid being identified as enemy vehi-cles. These curious designs made thevehicles pretty attractive, and I tried toreproduce this in the kit reviewed.

We are dealing with a mold from anoriginal decades old Italeri kit, manu-factured and reissued by Zvezda aRussian brand in the mid 90s.

I basically grew as a hobbyist withthe products manufactured by the Ital-ian brand, so I cannot say anything bad

about it and my comments will not beentirely objective. Even if I think thatwe are dealing with a basically good kitthat can be assembled with almost notrouble, we can put our skills to thetest by detailing and rebuilding someparts in order to obtain a reproductioncloser to the original.

If we want to get a vehicle of thefirst run like one of the captured tanksmentioned earlier, we should do a fewchanges to the kit. The most importantones are the following:

1- Get rid of the rectangular struc-ture on the roof of the turret whichallowed for a greater swoop whendirecting the gun down.

2- Substitute the motor grilles witha transversal to the axis of the hull

design- for photo etched parts with alongitudinal design.

3- Eliminate the lateral rims of therectangular piece on top of the waterintake of the radiator on the rear part ofthe motors cover.

Other than this we should etchwith a scriber the union between thearmored planks, because these are notfeatured. We will also have to rebuildthe suspension arches which showexcessive molding lines.

The general detailing of this kit wassecured with a photo etched set with afew Royal Model resin pieces, a Jordi

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A S S E M B L Y

KITS USED

Kit:- M13/40 Italian Medium Tank,Zvezda ref. 3516, 1/35 scale.

Photoetches:- Italian Tank M13/40, Royal Modelref. 199.

Gun:- Italian 47mm Mod. 47/32, JordiRubio ref. TG-60.

Tracks:- Carro Armato M13/40 Tracks,Modelkasten ref. SK-43.

The tool supports on the motor cover

have been trimmed down using a thin

file and some sandpaper. The

ventilation grilles (a photo etched

piece) included in the Royal Model

set match those of the tanks

manufactured on the first run.

The rivets on the

roof should be

level with the

armored plank,

and this is

achieved by

pressing with a

metal tube of the

right diameter

and then getting

rid of the molded

rivets that come

with the kit by

using a knife.

The rocky wall is a plaster reproduction of a stone molded with latex (see

Panzer Aces/Armor Model No. 10). The Wadi or occasional river bed is a

mixture of Aguaplast (plaster for home use), white glue and water. The

consistency of this mixture should be somewhat thicker than yoghurt with

sand and thin gravel in it. When the mixture hardens some cracks will appear

conveying to perfection the real life effect of natural cracks that appear on a

wet area that has dried up rapidly. In order to get some more texture Ive

spread some plaster powder on previously wet areas with water and white

glue.


Once the kit was

primed with

white paint, I

employed XF-61

to shade the

edges of the

armored planks

and other

crevices.

Now we airbrush

XF-13, trying to

avoid the center

of the planks.

I first took my airbrush kit andprimed the entire kit with white paintand then I did a first statement inshadows using XF-61 on all nooks andcrevices. The next step was to apply ahighly diluted layer of XF-13, trying todirect the paint jet towards the edgesof each armored plank so I could stillsee white in the center of each plank.Then I airbrushed on the center of theplanks a mixture of XF-65 and XF-4,lighting it up with XF-15, and finishedthis with a maximum highlight withXF-65 and XF-57.

Now I was ready to paint the kan-garoos. I traced on adhesive paper themotifs found on the decal sheet andused it as a stencil; in order to avoidpaint filtrations or an unnatural thick-ening of paint I airbrushed it (whitepaint) in real thin layers dirtied with atinge of XF-4. All paint references men-tioned are Tamiya acrylics thinned outwith Gunze Sangyos Mr. Color Thin-ner.

Once paint had dried well I applieda few hand brushed paint filters usinggreen toned Humbrol enamels. Thiswas useful to integrate the previouscolors applied and the contrast createdwith the Kangaroos.

A couple of hours later I created afew discreet paint chips with a thinbrush; the superficial ones are madewith Model Color acrylics 980 and 916and the deeper ones have Panzer Aces302.

At this stage I varnished the kitusing a 50% mixture of GunzeSangyos gloss and matt varnish whichserved later on for enhancing the pro-files of the kit. This I did with a mixtureof Windsor and Newton oil paints 331and 554 and these colors greatly bene- 5

P A I N T I N G

The central area of each plank is now airbrushed using a mixture of XF-65 and

XF-4 which is then highlighted with XF-15.

Rubio aluminum gun and styrenetracks by Modelkasten which alsoinclude the tractor wheels molded inwhite metal and some wonderfulsprockets used to improve the suspen-sion. The pictures show these improve-ments.


fitted from the varnish treatment, flow-ing much better and preventing the kitfrom getting a whole lot darker.

After allowing a few hours of dryingtime, I created with Humbrol enamel61 and oil paint 637 a few dry brusheffects on the rivets and some edgeslighting them all up from the dark colorbehind as previously left.

Then I took oil paints 644, 646,744, 637, 395 and 554 to add chromat-ic richness to the kits surface andrecreate paint wear. I applied oil paintas usual: I soaked the necessary areaswith turpentine and applied small oilpaint pellets melting these with abrush soaked with turpentine as well.This process can be repeated until youare satisfied with the results.

After a while (oil takes long to dry)I applied some dir t on the kit; Iresearched this on many pictures of thevehicle in action. First I took my air-brush kit and sprayed really dilutedHumbrol enamel 72 on the areas thatdirt usually accumulates. Before paintdried up I took my turpentine soakedbrush and removed excess paint on theareas requiring it. When paint dried upI created a few nuances and effects butusing a brush and Humbrol 72, a mix-ture of oil paints 644 and 744 andwhen these dried up I applied Mig Pro-ductions powdered color pigmentsP027 and P028.

Later on I increased the dirt effecton some areas using Panzer Acesacrylic 310 and Model Color acrylics927, 917 and 977 all well diluted inwater mixing them together directly onthe surface of the kit.

Then I applied dirt trails, grease andoil stains by mixing oil paint 80 andbitumen of Judaea and linseed oil. Iused this oil to make sure that theresults remained glossy.

I finished the areas with greaterwear signs such as the edges of the tur-rets hatches and the hulls, the port-holes that cover the motor, etc., apply-ing humid Tamiya pigment 87088included in the Weathering Master Dset.

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The emblems are painted with a stencil cut on an adhesive paper surface.

Final highlights are made with a mixture of XF-65 and XF-57.

The ensemble is unified with enamel filters on Humbrol 76, 120, which are also

good for integrating the kangaroo motifs with the rest of the vehicle.


Paint chips are

made with a

thin tip brush.

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COLOR CHART

TAMIYA (acrylics) XF-2 flat whiteXF-4 yellow greenXF-13 J.N. greenXF-15 flat fleshXF-52 flat earthXF-57 buffXF-61 dark greenXF-65 field grey

TAMIYA (wet pigments)87088 oil stain

GUNZE SANGYO (acrylics)H-20 flat clearH-30 clear

HUMBROL (enamels)61 matt flesh72 matt khaki drill76 matt uniform green120 matt light green

PANZER ACES (acrylics)301 light rust302 dark rust303 yellowish rust310 old wood

MODEL COLOR (acrylics)890 reflective freen916 sand yellow917 beige927 dark flesh977 desert yellow

WINSOR & NEWTON (oils)331 ivory black395 Mars violet deep554 raw umber637 terre verte644 titanium white646 trans. gold ochre744 yellow ochre

TITAN (oils)80 bitumen

MIG PRODUCTIONS(pigments)P027 light dustP028 Europe dust

TITAN (asphalt)Asphalt

After weve applied satin varnish to the kit, we do some detail profiling on the

kit using a mixture of oil paints 554 and 331 thinned out with turpentine.

Edges and rivets are lighted up by dry brushing enamel 61mixed with oil

paint 637.


Small oil paint

pellets are placed

randomly trying to

get some variation

on the color tones.

Paint melts with the help of a

clean brush soaked in

turpentine.

Looks of the kit

when oil paint has

dried up. If youre

still not satisfied

with the results,

do it all over

again.

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Before melting oil paint on the

kits surface we should

humidify it with turpentine.

First phase in the dirt weathering process. Some areas have a

light enamel layer (72) carefully airbrushed.

This enamel reference is partially and randomly

removed using a turpentine soaked brush.


In order to increase dirt

density we can also use

water diluted acrylics,

but do not use great

amounts and watch

how these dry up

because you can get

many unwanted rims

which are very hard to

get rid of.

Definitive results

are achieved with

powdered color

pigments.

On some areas, dirt

is enhanced with oil

paint washes on

644 and 744 that

get caught in the

anfractuosities of

the kit.

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Areas that get a greater

accumulation of dirt are taken care of

using a brush.

The edges of the stains are smeared

with a clean brush; up and down

brush strokes are done to simulate

dirt trails.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

- PIGNATO, Nicola. ItalianMedium Tanks in action, inArmor Series No. 39,Squadron/Signal Publications,Carrollton, Texas, 2001.

- VV.AA. Los msextraordinarios carros decombate, Ediciones Altaya,Barcelona, 2005.


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Oil spills and grease stains have been made with a mixture of oil paint 80, bitumen of Judaea and linseed oil.

It is crucial to adapt well the tracks to the anfractuosities of your ground. The ground has been painted with the same

colors used to weather the vehicle.


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The tracks base color is Tamiyas XF-52. They have been weathered just like the vehicle. The metal shine on the friction

areas has been obtained with smeared pencil lead.

Rust on the exhaust silencers has been conveyed with Panzer Aces acrylics 301 and 302.


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M13/40, IV Battaglione

Carri, Tepeleni, Greece,

January 1941.

M13/40, VII Battaglione Carri,

Divisione Corazzata Ariete,

Lybia, February 1941.

M13/40, X Battaglione

Carri, Divisione Corazzata

Littorio, El Alamein, July

1942.


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M14/41, Divisione Corazzata

Centauro, Kasserine pass,

February 1943.

M13/40, IX Battaglione Carri,

Divisione Corazzata Ariete, El

Alamein, October 1942.

Several

M14/41s with

the Gialllo

Sabbia

(Yellow sand)

color scheme

on a port on

northern

Africa. On the

roof of each

turret we can

see a white

disk for aerial

id. purposes.


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Once the US had conquered the Marianas archipelago, this was used as aplatform for sending bombardiers to Japanese territory. However the

distance between these islands and Japan was still considerable and thatmeant that the B-29s couldnt possibly be escorted and that in turn

translated into very heavy losses.

By: Javier Redondo Jimnez Pictures by the author

Fine Molds 1/35

he eyes of American strategistswere then set upon a smallisland some 660 miles

(1200km) to the south of Tokyo, whichwould mean to the B-29s about threehours of flight. The island was calledIwo Jima (Brimstone Island) and was apart of metropolitan Japan. It measureda little over 8km long and had a widthof about 4.5km in its northern area, hav-ing a total surface of no more than 20square kilometers. On the base of the

island stood Mount Suribachi a sleepingvolcano about 168m high were youcould master almost all the island. Ithad two airfields (Motoyama 1 and 2)and a third one which was in progress. The terrain was a mixture of gorges,

valleys, rocks and hills. Throughout theisland there were sulphurous emana-tions coming from cracks on the sur-face. The poor soil only allowed thegrowth of crude plants and small treesand there was no drinking water.

General Tadamichi Kuribayashi wasin charge of defending this island andhe did a good job by taking maximumadvantage of the islands qualitiesincluding its volcanic ashes that werethrown into the concrete making theisland into some sort of a Maginot line,turning it into a labyrinth of subter-ranean tunnels, chambers, casematesand command stations which werefilled with guns and machine guns. Hehad highly motivated troops that

TT

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The fenders have

been bent by

heating them

with a small

electric welding

machine. The

front section of

the right one has

been removed to

insist on the idea

of wear.

On the side of the

drivers post Ive

added a few

plastic rivets

from an old kit.

The motion

wheels are the

ones included in

the Modelkasten

set.

14-19 ING Type95ok:PzI.F 10/05/13 12:42 Pgina 15

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accepted death and wanted to inflict asmany American casualties as possible. On February 19th 1945 the invasion

began in Futatsune beach. The durationfor this operation was planned and esti-mated for five days, but the star span-gled banner didnt float on top of theisland until March the 26th. The pricepaid was the highest for the entire Pacif-ic campaign: 6,766 US soldiers killedand almost 20,000 wounded. Among the Japanese units in charge

of the defense there was the 26thArmored Regiment commanded by

Colonel Takeichi Nishi, a famous jockeywho had won a gold medal in the LAOlympics of 1932. The unit at his com-mand had 23 tanks: twelve Type 95 andeleven Type 97. The 1st armored unit first saw com-

bat on February the 20th, fighting untilits total annihilation on March the 1st inhill number 382. On the 25th of thatmonth the 3rd company was sent to theMotoyama Number 2 to defend itagainst the US marines fighting fiercelyuntil it fell on the 27th. In the morningof February the 28th the remaining

KITS USED

Kit:- Type 95 Ha-Go, Fine Molds ref.FM16, 1/35 scale.

Photoetched:

- Type 95 Ha-Go, Fine Molds ref.MG28.

Gun:

- Type 95 Ha-Go, Fine Molds ref.MG06.

Tracks:

- Type 95 Light Tank, Modelkastenref. SK-50.

The joints between

different plastic

pieces have been

puttied using

Tamiya putty

thinned with

industrial acetone.

The Fine Molds kit

includes several

white metal pieces

such as the tow

cables, the exhaust

and the crank.

Cyanoacrylate glue

has been used to

fix these.


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armored vehicles from the 2nd companyhad been hiding in caves and attackedthe 21st Marine Regiment which wasinitially surprised but eventuallydestroyed the tanks using bazookas.For the Japanese, the fall of Iwo Jima

was an insurmountable tragedy. It was apiece of national territory that fell to theprice of 21,000 lives. Only a little over200 prisoners were made. Kuribayashisbody was never found, and he onlydelayed the inevitable, making the islandonly fit for the devil.

The Type 95 Ha-Go is a smallstyrene treasure with a few white metalpieces manufactured by the Japanesebrand Fine Molds, and is therefore highlyrecommendable. The same manufacturermakes a photo etched sheet and a metalgun to add further detail to the kit. How-ever the vinyl tracks are quite mediocreand had to be replaced by a Modelkas-ten plastic reference which includes trac-tion wheels. The quality of the Modelka-

sten products is well known, but due tosize, assembly was rather tedious. In order to create the impact that

destroyed the tank, I opened a hole witha knife on the right side of the armoring.I also reduced the thickness of the wallusing a Dremel driller tool with a smallhead piece attached. On the base of thetractor wheels and on the front part ofthe hull I had to recreate some rivets thatthe kit does not reproduce. The assem-bly phase isnt a big deal as youll judgeby the pictures.

All the vehicles

areas which stick

out have been

given rusty paint

chips which

increase the wear

sensation.

In all tools and

those areas on the

armoring prone to

wear, metal worn

to a polish has

been conveyed

using graphite

(pencil lead) and

smudged.

THE KIT


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I painted the kit after consultingavailable research material and begun bycovering it with base colorKosoushoku, some sort of green thatcame out of the factory with. I did byairbrushing a mixture of the followingTamiya acrylics XF-57, XF-55 and XF-49.Then I augmented the amount of the

first two color references on the mixtureto create a couple of highlights. After a couple of hours drying time I

was ready to hand brush the remainingtwo camouflage colors. I employed forthis Model Color acrylics applied in sev-eral thin layers. The first colorSoushoku was a dark green color

which sometimes was also used as basecolor. I created it by mixing 894, 980and 953. The second color was a darkbrown known as Tochishoku; I usedfor this one 941 right out of the bottle. The emblem for the 26th Armored

Regiment was a white disc with anupright blue arrow head. The armored

After airbrushing

base color and a

few highlights,

camouflage spots

have been hand

painted using

Model Color

acrylics. It is

convenient to use

paint diluted on

60% water and

apply at least

three thin layers

which dry up

immediately.

Dirt and mud have

been recreated with

powdered color

pigments applied

with a brush either

diluted with enamel

thinner or dry.


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vehicles of this regiment were lost tothe sea when an American submarinesunk the cargo vessel that took these toIwo Jima. As a consequence, this unithad to be reequipped with vehicles instore and therefore these didnt haveany such markings while fighting in theisland. Once I had this emblem thing right I

began to shade the kit using a highlydiluted mixture of Tamiyas XF-10 andXF-1. I applied this mixture with con-trolled air pressure in my airbrush kit anda firm hand. That is how I enhanced afew contours, crevices, etc.Then I applied a few Humbrol paint

filters and oil paint to get the ageingeffect on the paintjob, by melting differ-ent color shades on the kits surface. Iused oils 623, 227, 105, 411 and 409. Ihad to insist on oil 409 to enhance a fewdetails.When my oils had dried up I cre-ated a number of superficial paint chipsusing a lighter version of myKosoushoku base color. Then I diddeeper ones using Model Color acrylics985 and 950 distributing these through-out the vehicle in a rational and orderlyfashion. I complemented this by apply-ing a metal worn to a polish effectusing graphite (pencil lead) and smudg-ing it.

I concluded by doing a few greasestains using oil paint 80, Marabu glossvarnish and thinner. I also applied sever-al Mig powdered color pigments eitherdry or in washes created with the pig-ments and thinner in order to obtain dif-ferent effects.

COLOR CHART

TAMIYA (acrylics)XF-1 flat blackXF-10 flat brownXF-49 khakiXF-55 deck tanXF-57 buff

MODEL COLOR (acrylics)894 Russian green941 burnt umber950 black953 flat yellow980 black green985 hull red

HUMBROL (enamels)72 matt khaki drill93 matt desert yellow

VAN GOGH (oils)105 titanium white227 yellow ochre409 burnt umber411 burnt Sienna623 sap green

TITAN (oils)80 asphalt

MIG PRODUCTIONS(pigments)P027 light dustP030 beach sandP033 dark mudP037 Gulf War sand

MARABU (varnish)1106 gloss varnish

BIBLIOGRAPHY

- MOSZCZANSKI, Ilja, Typ 95Ha Go, in Militaria No. 185,Wydawnictwo Militaria,Warsaw, 2003.


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P H O T O G R A P H I C R E P O R T

Pictures: Octavio Dez Cmara

The Type 95 Ha-Go was manufactured between 1935 and 1942, and we dont have enough data concerning the amount

of units manufactured but it could be well over 2,100 units. This small armored vehicle (7.4 tons) was manned by three

army men: Commander with fire and reload duties, mechanic- machine gunner and driver.

Its principal weapon was a Type 94 37mm gun that could elevate

and descend +20 -15 degrees. Piercing and explosive ammunition

was used (penetration of about 25mm from a distance of about

500m). It reached a speed when released of about 700 m/second.

20-23 ING repor.Type95:Renault UE REP 10/05/13 12:46 Pgina 20

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On the rear was located the motor; a diesel

motor cooled with air from a Mitsubishi NVD

6120 120 HP that allowed the vehicle to fetch

a maximum speed of 40km/h on an open road.

It had an operational radius of 250km.

Detail of the hinges on the drivers hatch.

Drivers hatch, with open slots for viewing.

On the lower area theres a metal strip (arch

shaped) to mislead impacts.

Gun shaft, underneath we can see the out

sticking structure were the machine

gunner was.

The measurements of the turret were

reduced; the double hatch occupied almost all

the roof. Its armoring was 12mm thick.

Secondary weaponry included two Type 97

7.7mm machine guns one on the front and one

on the back.


22

Exhaust silencer, the protective grille is gone. Ventilation grilles and motor access hatches.

The sparse armoring was about 12mm

thick in the front area and about 6 to

12mm thick in the rear, 9mm in the

roof and the lower part of it.

Detail showing the lateral exhaust

protected by a small curved plank.


23

Detail showing the bogie and the

return rod of the track located in the

mid section of the rear of the hull.

Detail showing the tractor wheel.

The suspension system was pretty

simple and quite uncomfortable for

crewmen; there were two bogies

with two double wheels activated

with a horizontal spring on a

carcass.

The inside of the vehicle was covered with a layer of asbestos which had a double function: reduce the heat generated by

the motor and absorb the bumps inflicted in movement to the crew.


24

German chancellor Adolf Hitler turns 56 on April 20th 1945. The fortified

capital of the 3rd Reich is already within the reach of the Soviet artillery and is

systematically bombarded. The Red Army is surrounding the town which is

stoutly defended by SS and Heer units and some personnel from the

Luftwaffe, Kriegsmarine and also by the Volkstrum militia (This militia

includes WWI veterans). The kids from the Hilerjugend, trained from infancy

also lend their hands.

By: Jordi Escarr Gonzlez Pictures by the author

Dragon/Tank Models/VP 1/35

24-33 ING With all the power:PzI.F 10/05/13 12:50 Pgina 24

he combats are quite bloody,and take place both day andnight block by block and

room by room. Bombings are frequentand heavy. Several plans to evacuatethe population are handed forth, butthe Fhrer rejects them all. The town isfull of trenches, ditches and machinegun posts and all sorts of artillery anti-tank obstacles, etc. German forcesdiminish every day and the civil popu-lation too. The anti-communist fanaticattitude will help reject every Sovietoffer. On the 24th of that same month,the town is completely surrounded and

under siege. The fights are cruellyintensified. On April the 30th Soviettroops finally reach the unreachabledowntown area; Hitler commits suicideon his bunker instead of surrenderingto the enemy forces. The Soviets takethe Reichstag on May the 1st andBerlin succumbs the following day. OnMay 8th Germany surrenders to theallied troops.The conquest of Berlin meant heavy

human losses to both contenders andheavy material losses as well. 45.000German losses were counted betweenthe military and the civil population,and the Russians had around 155.000losses and 250.000 wounded or sick.

The idea for the diorama was basi-cally to show a fierce Soviet advanceon a downtown street in Berlin. I hadto use a typical Russian tank of theperiod and a few infantry men spreadthroughout. All of this had to beplaced on a devastated, bombardedand heavily fought on scene withtraces of fleeing Germans.

The T-34/85 1944 model Dragon kitis easily assembled right out of the boxand does not need improvements ormodifications. I airbrushed TamiyasXF-27. Once paint dried up I applieddecals using the Micro Set and MicroSol products which are very necessaryto fully adapt these to the well repro-duced rugged metal surface. Then Ipainted the horizontal white bandaround the tank using a white pencil. After I airbrushed a thin layer of

gloss varnish (Gunze Sangyo) through-out the kit I began ageing the kit withsome dirt and mud. I first painted a fewchips using a mixture of Model Colors985 and 950. Then I applied three colorfilters using a three filter set (allies)manufactured by The Filter. I alsoapplied a few Mig powdered color pig-ments (P028 and P037) insisting ondirt prone areas such as the wheels,tracks and fenders.

Before doing the final effects I matvarnished the kit airbrushing Marabumat varnish. I let the varnish dry forabout four to six hours and then pro-ceeded to recreate the metal polishedareas around the edges of the hatches,tool boxes, etc. using Mig pigmentP231 applied with my finger on theedges. I conveyed some fuel stains onthe auxiliary fuel tanks using Mig prod-uct Satin grease and oil.

TT

25

KITS USED

Kit:- T-34/85 Mod. 1944, Dragon ref.6319, 1/35 scale.

Figures:

- Soviet Motor Rifle Troops 1943-45No. 1, Tank Models ref. T35009.




- Soldier Running and Shouting,Hornet ref. RH07.

- Hands, Hornet refs. 01,02 & 03.Accessories:

- MG Ammo Boxes, Tank Modelsref. A-56.

- MG 34 Set, Tank Models ref. A-11.- German Helmets, Tank Models ref.A-39.

- WW II Newspapers, Posters, etc.Verlinden Productions ref. 12.

- German Military Roadsigns,Verlinden Productions ref. 18.

- German Comercial Signs,Verlinden Productions ref. 24.

- 88mm Shells & Cartridge Cases,Verlinden Productions ref. 1101.

- 88mm Ammo Crates, VerlindenProductions ref. 1102.

Buildings:

- City House Corner, VerlindenProductions ref. 1385.

- Cobblestone Section, VerlindenProductions ref. 2250.

- Bricks & Cobbles, VerlindenProductions ref. 2275.

- Tiles, Royal Model ref. 296.- Building Accesories, MiniArt ref.35005.

T H E S C E N E

T - 3 4 / 8 5


I added as a final touch, the arm ofa tank driver holding the hatch fromthe inside.

All figures are manufactured byTank Models except the one thats run-ning which is a Hornet reference. Thearmored vehicle must be assembledbefore assembling the pieces that willultimately become the soldiers in orderto avoid fitting mistakes between the

The T-34/85, painted XF-27 has been

treated with paint filters of different

shades. Dirt has been created with

Mig Productions color pigments,

which are easily and speedily applied.

The tracks have different brown

pastel shades. The id band was made

using a white colored pencil.

F I G U R E S


arms and shoulders which is not aseasy as it seems. I changed many fig-ures hands for Hornet referencesimproving thus the realistic effects ofholding weapons and handles. Afterplacing equipment and other stuff onthe figures I painted them all usingModel Color Acrylics. Its very important to create differ-

ent shades of the uniform colors andthe knapsacks on the figures to addchromatic variety to the scene. I paint-ed each figure individually in order tovary slightly the mixtures used asopposed to painting them together. Ibegan painting the figures on top of

the tank, which was glued in placeimmediately and then painted theremainder and placed them on thescene as soon as the ground wasdone. I looked for dynamic figureswhich would transmit movement andtension.

The ruined building is manufac-tured by Verlinden Productions and ismade of plaster. I had to cut one of thewalls on the corner in order to fit it bet-

Base color for all uniforms was Model

Color 988 mixed with 950 and 967.

The amount of each color varied in

each figure to change color hues a

little.

Adapting the pose of the figures to the vehicle was a complicated affair. The hands needed to be changed and several

adjustments had to be performed between limbs and torsos.

T H E S C E N E


ter on the scene. I painted it alternatingboth brush and airbrush. I used yellow-ish, cream and grey acrylic colors byboth Tamiya and Gunze Sangyo. I agedthe building using a filter set and pow-dered color pigments made by Mig Pro-ductions which I mentioned earlier.Once finished I glued the building tothe base which was a piece of artificialcork cut to measure.

Before I placed the debris I gluedthe street tiles manufactured by Ver-linden Productions. The area coveredwith debris and the area where it isright by the ruined walls was createdusing a mixture of white glue, waterand tissue paper. I created the massof debris using Royal Model roof tiles,absorbent sand used for pets, thinwooden rods, Verlinden bricks and

floor tiles and some remains of theplaster building. All was glued inplace using white glue. Once it wasall dry I painted this using the samecolors used on the building; I alsopainted the floor tiles using brownsand grays. Then I saturated all sur-faces using Mig pigments which werealso swept in some areas to vary thetexture. 28

The color on the uniforms is similar but there are not two garments alike.

Steel helmets are painted using a

mixture of 967 and 950. Metal

parts on the weapons have been

painted 950.

COLOR CHART

TAMIYA (acrylics) XF-1 flat blackXF-27 black greenXF-57 buff

GUNZE SANGYO (acrylics)H-11 flat whiteH-30 clear flatH-85 sail colorH-401 dark greyH-403 dark yellow

MODEL COLOR (acrylics)877 gold brown912 tan yellow941 burnt umber950 black951 white967 olive green985 hull red988 khaki

ANDREA COLOR (acrylics)AC-15 ochre

THE FILTER (enamels)P247 allied filter set

MIG PRODUCTIONS(enamels)P410 oil and grease stain mixture

MIG PRODUCTIONS(pigments)P028 Europe dustP037 Gulf War sandP231 gun metal

MARABU (varnish)1108 matt varnish In every case I used 988 and 912 for

highlights, and 950 with 941 for

shadows.


29

All figures have been dirtied using the

same pigments employed on the

vehicle and the debris.

Leather implements have

been painted with 985 and

950. Metal shine on the

gun shafts and bullet

loaders has been done with

slight pencil marks.

Tank Models figures have

natural and dynamic poses,

are made out of resin and

are well molded.

All details have been

carefully enhanced with

950.

By augmenting or diminishing the

amount of one of the three colors used

on the uniforms and the equipment

pieces supposedly made of canvas, the

hue can change significantly.

This excellent white metal figure has

been manufactured by Hornet.


30

I capped it all off with a few fuel spills on theground, a MiniArt street light, shells, ammo boxes,wire, bottles, pipes, an MG 34, helmets, some papers,kitchen utensils, traffic signals, etc. All these add arealistic feel to the scene. Once I glued the vehicle inplace I dirtied the figures using brown pigments.

The heavily shaded areas (lower part of the arms for

instance) have almost pure 950. The cream colored

hue on some jackets has been created with AC-15.

The building has been painted with different

mixtures containing H-403, XF-57 and H-85. In

every mixture I included a few drops of XF-1.

The abandoned MG and ammunition boxes, the shells and blood

remains, are evidence that a wounded German sharpshooter

stayed in this portal but had to abandon the premises.


31

BIBLIOGRAPHY

- ZALOGA, Steven J and VOLSTAD,Ron. El Ejrcito Rojo en la GranGuerra Patritica, in Carros deCombate No. 71, OspreyMilitary/RBA, Barcelona, 2001.

- CANO MUOZ, Gustavo.Frontovik, in Eurouniformes No.9 (febrero-marzo 2002), AccinPress, Madrid, pp. 2-12.

The floor tiles have been painted

with Gunze Sangyos H-401 and a

number of brown tones. Dirt has

been done using pigment washes

diluted with enamel thinner.


The plasht-palatkha or rain cloak is rolled up and worn

bandolier style over the left shoulder, because weapons are

usually leaned against the right shoulder when shooting. The

sharovari were knee high breeches. These were made with

diamond shaped patches on the knees.

This RKKA caporal has a pilotka (cap) and is also

wearing on his gimnastiorka (shirt) the insignia of

his guard units. The ammunition container for his

PPSH-41 weapon, popularly known as pepesha is

made of cloth and is held to the figures belt with a

buckle. The figures long boots are made of black dyed

leather.


34

In 1933 the French Army required a lightweight armored vehicle to accompany

its infantry troops. Both the Hotchkiss firm and Renault put forward similar

projects, but finally the Renault prototype (R-35) was chosen.

By: Javier Redondo Jimnez Pictures by the author

Trumpeter 1/35

owever the chivalry unitsfound the Hotchkiss projectinteresting enough, so even-

tually this vehicle was chosen for theDivisions Cuirasses and branded asChar lger Hotchkiss modle H-35.

The hull of this vehicle was smol-ten in six separate pieces: motor cover,combat compartment, front part of thehull and two longitudinal sections toright and left forming the lower areawith a total weight of 11.370 kg. The

turret was an APX-R made of smelt ste-el about 40mm thick, identical to theturrets mounted in the Renault R-35and R-40, armed with a 5A-18 L/2137mm gun and a coaxial ChatelleraultM6 modle 31 7,5mm machine gun.

The H-35 was equipped with aHotchkiss 1934 six cylinder 78hp gaso-line motor that reached a maximumspeed of 28km/hour which theoreti-cally was better than the Renault R-35at 20km/hour, but the superior design

of its gear box actually made this a fas-ter model.

The French chivalry wanted a betterspeed rate, so a version with a morepowerful motor was built. The resultwas a prototype with a Hotchkiss 1938120hp motor and a modified hull to fitit in. Total weight for this vehicle moun-ted up to 12.100kg. Now speed grew to36,5km/h. Thats how the Char lgermodle 1935 H modifi 39 was born.Model H-35 had to be substituted, so

HH

34-39 ING HOTCHKISS H-39:PzI.F 10/05/13 12:58 Pgina 34

an initial run of 900 units was comman-ded. The name created some confusionand both vehicles ended up beingnamed H-35. Later on this model wasreferred to as H-38 or H-39.

In 1940 these vehicles were upda-ted: new periscopes were installed anda long 5A 38 L/35 37mm gun was alsoadopted. This updating only affected350 units. Starting on April of that yearunits with the new gun were alreadycoming out of the factory.

When the war began, France had atotal of 640 Hotchkiss vehicles. The

Germans captured 550 units that werelater on revamped as PzKpfw. 35H734(f) or PzKpfw 38H 735(f) in itsarmored vehicle configuration, or modi-fied as small self propelled guns.

The asiatic brand Trumpeter offersthe German version of this armoredvehicle with rocket launchers on bothsides, but also includes the long gunversion that I needed for this job. Thekit is not exactly up to the standards ofother kits that the brand has released interms of quality and this is quite dis-couraging. But on the other side the kitsells for a very fair price, which issomething to thank for on an otherwi-se expensive hobby. This kit is therefo-re perfect to mutilate unhindered.

35

A S S E M B L Y

The gun has been replaced by aplastic tube of the right size. Iveadded an antenna base on the roof, afew rivets and a new dome.

In order to convey the tensordevices, on the base of each rearwheel I have placed a plastic diskand a plastic screw both made witha hole puncher (Punch & Die). Thetrack covers have been disposed of,gluing instead an Evergreen strip(0,25mm thick).

The armoring on the exhaust on theside of the hull has beenreconstructed with a styrene sheet.The exhaust is just an Evergreen rod.


I carefully followed the instructionsheet assembly sequence, but I soonfound out that if Id put the bogies inthe assigned place I would definitelyrun the risk of getting a misalignedaxis. In order to avoid this I had tosand the unions until I got the rightposition for all pieces.

When I glued the bulbous piecesthat conform the base of the tractorwheels, in the front part of the frame Ihad to convey the smolten effect onthe steel planks by using putty on thejoints and sanding the surface even.

I soon found out that the tractorwheels would also be off centered if Ifollowed the manufacturers instruc-tions, so I forgot the instruction sheet

and centered these minding the trans-mission.

I also had to use some putty andsandpaper on the front part of the fra-me to unify the surfaces and later on Itook a scribber and clearly marked thewelding lines between the smolten pie-ces. On the rear I also used this tool tocreate the joint line between the com-

bat chamber and the motor compart-ment.

I replaced the two sheet hatch (atypical German modification) for astandard French dome from an oldRenault R-35 manufactured by Heller. Itis a startling coincidence that this piecefits perfectly on the Trumpeter kitsturret. 36

COLOR CHART

TAMIYA (acrylics) X-6 orangeXF-1 flat blackXF-3 flat yellowXF-9 hull redXF-12 J.N. greyXF-50 field blueXF-63 German greyXF-64 red brown

MODEL AIR (acrylics)59 matt varnish

THE FILTER (enamels)P242 tan

HUMBROL (enamels)29 matt dark earth

502 ABTEILUNG (oils)1 snow white20 faded dark yellow25 brick red color35 buff color70 dark rust100 faded grey

TITAN (oils)80 asphalt

MIG PRODUCTIONS (pigments)P027 light dustP033 dark mudP037 Gulf War sand

The welding strip on the lower part of the turret has been recreated with the

tip of an X-acto knife connected to a small electric welding machine. (see

Panzer Aces/Armor Models issue N 11).

The overall anti rust priming look has been conveyed with Tamiyas

XF-9 toned down with XF-3. Different nuances have been created with

Tamiyas XF-64 and X-6.


I finally I chose to dispose of thepathetic vynil tracks (too rigid andlong) and replaced them with an exce-llent Friulmodel reference molded onsoft metal and composed of individuallinks.

I began the process by airbrushingsome priming paint (Tamiyas XF-12)in several thin layers. Then I customi-zed the vehicle using as a reference aTrackstory monograph (n.5 Juin 40limpossible sursaut) which offers inpage 57 a wonderful profile and a colorpicture of a very particular H-39.

The last H-39s left the assemblyplants with some secondary imple-ments uninstalled and sporting a redpriming paint. This is therefore a veryinteresting subject to reproduce remin-ding me heavily of the Stalingrad sty-

le, however we should bear in mindthat the T-34/76 STZ without paintseem to be just a myth while these H-39s were real and theres photographicproof of it.

I began by covering the kit using amixture of Tamiyas XF-9 and XF-3(90/10%). Then I applied differentcolor tones on different areas usingfirst a mixture of XF-9 with a little XF-64 and then added X-6 to this mixture.Then I created a few basic shadowsusing well diluted XF-1. I always usedmy airbrush kit on the process.

Then I reproduced the manufactu-ring numerals on the vehicle. I used aVerlinden transfer sheet with numeralson different sizes and then protectedthese with a thin airbrushed mat var-nish layer. Then I applied a few welldiluted filters using Humbrol enamel29 diluted on the manufacturers ownthinner and The Filters P242 appliedright out of the can.

After it had all properly dried up Ifurther altered the base color by mel-ting a few oil paint references: 1, 20,25, 35, 70 and 100 all 502 Abteilungreferences.

The areas of the vehicle that werenot primed (wheels and sights for ins-tance) were painted with a mixture ofXF-63 and XF-50. Once paint was dry Irubbed these parts with graphite pow-der (pencil lead) using my finger, Imasked the turret because I did notwant a metal effect there.

I finished the job by recreating mudand dirt using Mig Productions pig-ments P027, P033 and P037. I alsoapplied in different quantities the ubi-quitous Titan oil reference 80 used torecreate grease.

I created a simple and small groundpiece to place my armored vehicle inclu-ding in it the turret of a Panzer I thatwas left from an earlier project. (seePanzer Aces/Armor Models N 16).

37

P A I N T I N G

Serial numbers are dry transfers protected later on with a layer of mat varnish.


38

The strength of the priming has been toned down using brown colored enamel filters applied with a brush.

Dirt and mud have been recreated using Mig Productions powdered pigments. I finished the job by applying oil and

grease stains made with the usual technique.


39

BIBLIOGRAPHY

- DANJOU, Pascal, Juin 40,limpossible sursaut, inTrackstory No. 5, Editions duBarbotin, Ballainvilliers, France,2006.

- DANJOU, Pascal, CharsHotchkiss, H35, H39, inTrackstory No. 6, Editions duBarbotin, Ballainvilliers, France,2007.

- BINGHAM, James, "CharsHotchkiss, H35, H39 andSomua S35" in AFV WeaponsNo. 36. Profile PublicationsLtd. Berkshire, U.K., 1971.

Polished metal on the track sections has been made by sanding dry paint until we can see the soft metal underneath.

Metal pieces without priming paint have been painted with a mixture of XF-64 and XF-50. These have also been treated

using graphite powder applied with bare fingers.


On October the 19th 1944, the sch. SS-Pz. Abt. 103 received its firstfour Tiger II. On the following month,

the battalion was renamed as sch. SS-Pz. Abt. 503, and betweenDecember of that year and January

1945 it was finally equipped with 35additional units reaching a total

amount of 39 Tiger Ausf. B.

By: Jos Manuel Flores PrezPicture credits: Jordi Escarr Gonzlez

Alpine 1/35

n October the 19th 1944, thesch. SS-Pz. Abt. 103 receivedits first four Tiger II. On the

following month, the battalion wasrenamed as sch. SS-Pz. Abt. 503, andbetween December of that year and

January 1945 it was finally equippedwith 35 additional units reaching atotal amount of 39 Tiger Ausf. B.

On January the 25th the unit wastransferred to the Oriental Front, whereit saw bloody fighting on the area of

OOThe front right corner of the hull of

this Tiger II is a resin copy. The handleof the hatch is made of copper wire

and the protection of the periscope is aPlasticard strip. The clasp for the axe

is made with three Aber photo etchedpieces.40

Neu Stettin that saw the escape of therefugees coming from the east of Prus-sia. Throughout the night from Februarythe 17th to the 18th 1945, the sch. SS-Pz.Abt. 503 were transported on therailway to Danzig. During the combatsthat took place in this city (between thedistricts of Oliwa and Wrzesszcz) andSopot, the SS-Untersturmfhrer KarlBrommann Commander of the 1stCompany destroyed 65 tanks andmobile guns (including a few T-34 fromthe 1st Polish Armored Brigade), 44artillery pieces and 15 transport vehi-cles. Because of this, Brommann wasawarded with the Knights Cross.

This is an excellent resin figure upto the usual standards of Alpine Minia-tures. It has very fine details and anoverall high quality level. He is dressedin leather clothes and has a bandageon his head, something that matchesthe pictures of the real life Tiger aceKarl Bromman, I only had to modifythe shoulder pieces to portray the SS-Ustuf rank (NCO) and put a cigaretteon his left hand.

I used Model Color acrylics. For theflesh tones I began with 876 as mybase color, and kept adding 815 for thehighlights. Then I added 814 highlydiluted in water for the shadows. ThenI took care of the leather clothes with amixture of 950, 872 and 841 which Ilighted up by increasing the amount ofthe last two colors for the highlights. Iused some 856 for the final highlightsand for creating a few worn areas. Iused a brush soaked with just water

and rubbed it against the clothes(insisting in some areas and neglectingothers) to create the natural satin glossof leather. This is a much better systemthan using gloss varnish, because youllget a fake looking shine. Afterwards Ishaded using highly diluted 950.

I painted the 43 type cap using amixture of 950 and 988; I used greateramounts of the last color for the high-lights and water diluted 950 for theshades. The skull in the front and theeagle were done with 883, and thenthis was lighted up with 951. I alsoused 883 to paint the small officersrope around the upper rim of the cap.The front buttons (2) I painted withGunze Sangyos 213.

The bandage (988) was highlightedwith 951 in several applications andthen I dirtied it with 962 to simulateblood.

The belt, holster and boots werepainted with 984 mixed with a little950. I added greater amounts of the

first color for the highlights and ulti-mately added 856 which was finallyused plain to do a few scratches. Itook care of the shadows using 950highly diluted in water.

I finished the figure with a lightstaining of the lower areas, the back ofhis pants and the elbows on the jacketusing pastel earth tones.

I decided to place the star figure inhis Tiger II, or rather a piece of it cut tomeasure with a small saw and glued ona 4x4cm base. I already had a styreneDragon kit for the purpose. I was notexactly ecstatic about bashing this highquality kit, so I kindly asked the favorto my friends in M4 Models of repro-ducing a corner of it in resin.

I have not much to add about thepainting of the portion of the vehiclebecause I basically followed the stan-dard procedures reviewed elsewhere inprevious issues of this magazine. 41

F I G U R E

BACKGROUND

KITS USED

Figure:- Late War Waffen-SS Panzer NCO1, Alpine Miniatures ref. 350451/35 scale.

Photoetches:

- German (WWII) clamps andclasps. Aber ref. 35A20.

Accessories:

- Sd.Kfz. 182 King Tiger HenschelTurret. Dragon ref. 6208.

The shoulder pieces have been painted

883, and the pink officers rope on the

cap (mixture of 926 and 951) belongs

to the armored troops.

40- 42 ING KARL BROMMANN:PzI.F 10/05/13 13:03 Pgina 41

42

BIBLIOGRAPHY

- SCHNEIDER, Wolfgang.Tigers in combat II, J.J.Fedorowicz Publishing Inc.,Manitoba, Canada, 1998.

- BITOH, Mitsuru.Panzerkampfwagen Tiger,en Achtung Panzer No. 6, DaiNippon Caiga Co., Japan,1999.

- TERUI, Yoshihiro & B.S.K.Uniforms of the SS 1938-1945, Dai Nippon Kaiga Co.,Japan, 1998.

- BUFFETAUT, Yves.Normandie, juin 44 laBataille de Caen, 1. La cote112, en Armes Militaria HorsSerie No. 58, Histoire &Collections, Paris, 2005.The satin look on the leather garments

has been obtained by rubbing a clean

water soaked brush on the leather

surfaces.

On the upper edge of

the belt Ive created

a highlight using

856, the buckle has

been painted with

Gunze Sangyos

213.

The figures five oclock shadow has been

created with paint veils on 876 and 841.

COLOR CHART

MODEL COLOR (acrylics)814 burnt cad. red815 basic skintone841 Andrea blue856 ochre brown872 chocolate brown876 brown sand883 silver grey926 red950 black951 white984 flat brown988 khaki

GUNZE SANGYO (acrylics)213 stainless

40- 42 ING KARL BROMMANN:PzI.F 10/05/13 13:03 Pgina 42

46

The Kl. Pz. Bef. Wg. was a small armored command vehicle built on the frameof a Panzer I Ausf. B. It was originally designed for training purposes, butneeds forced it into combat. It was first used on the Spanish Civil War whereits weapon and armoring deficiencies when contending against Soviet tanks

was soon seen.

By: Mario Gabs Ruiz Pictures by: Ral Fernndez Ruiz Color Profiles: Carlos de Diego Vaquerizo

Dragon 1/35

47

ater on, during the Polish andWest campaigns, only the supe-rior training and advanced war-

fare techniques employed by the Ger-man Army allowed this vehicle to workas an efficient weapon. This vehiclehowever was considered obsoletealthough it also took part on the NorthAfrican campaign and the Barbarossaoperation where it didnt actually play amajor role. The frame of the Panzer I was used

to build command vehicles, tankhunters, self propelled guns, anti- air-craft and ammunition chores, etc.Among all these I always had a softspot for the Panzerbefehlswagen. Iespecially liked the late run of it with ahuge antenna on its upper part and afew additional armoring planks on itsfront. So as soon as the Chinese manu-facturer Dragon Kits put this vehicle onthe market I bought it fast; here youvegot the results.

This is a new generation kit withexcellent details and a perfect fit. Inorder to add some more detail Iemployed Lion Roars photo etchedsheet. I also changed the tracks for aspecific Modelkasten reference. I began as usual with the barge and

wheels which are very well reproduced.In fact this is the first time that a Panz-er I styrene kit includes the guides forthe tensor wheels. This assembly

phase didnt offer complications and Ijust changed the bogies axis for thecorresponding photo etched piece. I continued building the main struc-

ture. You have to be very watchful,because Dragon instruction sheets aregenerally confusing and you cant fig-ure out correctly which pieces to usefor each of the three versions possible.I recommend you to do your ownresearch and look for pictures of thereal thing. Once I was clear about thepieces I followed the instructions andassembled it all. In the commandersarmored dome I put some welding linesusing heat stretched plastic rods gluedwith Tamiya liquid glue (See Hobby kitschool Panzer Aces/Armor Modelsissue number 22). I textured theseusing the tip of a knife. Then I glued the Photo etched

armored shields in the lower areas ofthe front and in the commandersdome. I also added the wires for theheadlights and the antennas support. In order to give some personality to

the vehicle I changed the front and rear

On the left

casemate hatch

I had

difficulties

adapting

decals. It is

advisable to

use Micro Set

and Micro Sol

sparingly.

The welding

lines on the

commanders

dome have

been recreated

with heat

stretched

plastic strips.

Once these

were glued in

place, texture

was added

with a knife.

A S S E M B L Y

LL

46-53 ING Kl Pz Bef :PzI.F 10/05/13 13:04 Pgina 47

48

parts of the fenders for those included inthe Lion Roar photo etched sheet. Thisis a tiresome thing to do, but the resultsare well worth it. I decided to leave onemissing to simulate combat damage. Now I only had to place the anten-

na. I used a tin rod included in the LionRoar set. I had to bend this antennaand adapt it to its proper measure-ments, but once in place it lookedsplendid. The kit was now ready for thedecisive painting stage.

For quite some time now, I wantedto portray an Afrika Korps armoredvehicle with considerable wear. I want-ed to do one of the vehicles used onthe initial stages of the African fight.During this period, German vehicleswere painted with the classic Europeandark grey scheme or were covered withsand colored paint from varied origins.

The first thing I did was to primethe kit by airbrushing Humbrol enamel64. This priming helps you detect anypossible assembly bloopers such asleftover plastic flake, glue remains, etc.Priming also covers and integrates allphoto etched parts, and offers a solidbase for acrylic paint which will comein later. Then I airbrushed an overall layer of

Tamiyas XF-63, toned down with XF-2.I protected this layer from future ageingprocesses by airbrushing Tamiyas glossvarnish on top of it. After the decalswere in place (The lateral gates gaveme lots of trouble and had to use greatamounts of Micro Set and Micro Solliquids in order to adapt decals to thesesurfaces) I protected them with a newlayer of gloss varnish. From this point on things got a little

difficult; as youll surely remember Iwanted to portray a vehicle with anaged layer of sand color paint thatreveals underneath ample areas show-ing the original German Grey paintscheme. I studied for this several tech-niques, and even tested some on thekit, but was not convinced with theresults. I finally settled on the tech-nique used to paint the StuG. III Ausf.B which appeared in the previous issue. I airbrushed a mixture of Humbrol

enamels 81 and 94 on the entire kit.When this layer of paint had dried totouch (30 or 60 minutes later) I partial-ly removed it using a couple of stiffbrushes soaked on enamel thinner. Iworked harder on some areas to get dif-ferent degrees of wear, and also variedthe amount of thinner in order to getdifferent effects. This was finally morework than I bargained for, and the con-trast between grey and sand color wasstronger than I thought. Fortunately thefollowing ageing processes integratedthe difference between both colors,gaining in realistic looks. I allowed paint to dry up for a few

days, and then I applied a few hand-made paint filters. I used the threetones included in the Sin Industries fil-ter set for Afrika Korps vehicles. Whenusing these filters, do bear in mind thatthe kit will become slightly darker aftereach application. I continued to age

Oil and grease

stains were

placed on the

motors cover.

On the front

area of the

hull, right in

front of the

transmission

hatch Ive

reproduced a

number of dirt

trails.

Photoetched

parts are most

necessary to

get the right

details on the

smoke screen

device on top

of the

exhaust.

P A I N T I N G


49

paint by melting oil paint with a brush.This technique invented by Carlos deDiego some fifteen years ago is knownby all hobbyists around the globe soIm not going to give you further expla-nations. I used two earth tones 45 and46, 1, 21, 7A and 35. I used the lastpaint reference to smooth out the tran-sition between German gray and sand. Now the vehicle looked like it had

seen some action, but I still had to wearit down some more: I needed a few paintchips and scratches. Its always better tofall short than to overdo these effects, soI directly copied these from pictures ofthe real thing (not necessarily the selfsame unit though) and used PanzerAces acrylic 302. Afterwards I created anumber of dirt trails using oil paint,acrylics and even powdered pigments,especially on the front area of the hullwhich takes up the worst beatings.The armored vehicle was almost

ready except for some details and theapplication of color pigments which Ihad yet to take care of. Before I got toit I eliminated some unwanted gloss byairbrushing two very thin layers ofMarabu mat varnish. While varnishdried up (I usually allow a few days justto make sure) I painted the tools andfuel cases using specific Panzer Acesacrylics.

Dirt became thus the final stage,and I took care of it with Mig Produc-tions pigments P027, P028, P030 andP234. I began applying these on thelower areas of the vehicle where I

applied a dense mixture of these pig-ments on the brands own thinnerwhich can be used to do washes withit. I went over several times with mybrush but being careful not to overdo it

KITS USED

Kit:

- Sd. Kfz. 265 KleinePanzerbefehlswagen, Dragon ref.6218, 1/35 scale.

Photoetches:

- Sd.Kfz. 265 KleinePanzerbefehlswagen I/w MatelFrame Antenna, Lion Roar ref. LE35057.

Tracks:

- Pz.Kpfw, IB, Modelkasten ref. SK-32.

Accessories:

- 3mm Light Lenses, GreifAccessories ref. GF 204A.

- German cases 1st run, M4Models ref. 35022.

Dirt basically accumulates on the horizontal surfaces.


50

COLOR CHART

The vehicles headlights have been complemented with 3mm Greif Accessories

lenses. These are fixed in place using white glue.

The lower areas of the vehicle have a dense mixture of powdered color

pigments on enamel thinner. This is how we can convey dirt or sand clusters.

HUMBROL (enamels) 33 matt black34 matt white64 matt light grey81 matt pale yellow94 matt brown yellow

TAMIYA (acrylics) X-22 smokeXF-2 flat qhiteXF-63 German grey

PANZER ACES (acrylics) 302 dark rust307 red tail light308 green tail light310 old wood311 new wood315 light mud316 dark mud

MODEL COLOR (acrylics) 871 leather brown

SIN INDUSTRIES (enamels) P403 filter set Afrika Korps

MIR (oils) 1 titanium white7A cadmium yellow deep21 cinnabar green45 raw umber46 burnt umber50 bitume

502 ABTEILUNG (oils) 35 buff

MIG PRODUCTIONS(pigments)P027 light dustP028 Europe dustP030 beach sandP234 rubbel dust

MARABU (varnish) 110805 matt varnish


BIBLIOGRAPHY

- BRANDFORD, George R.Armour Camouflage &Markings: North Africa, 1940-1943, Arms and Armour Press,London, 1976.

51

because I wanted to recreate clusters ofsand and not mud. Then I dirtied light-ly the upper part of the kit; I prepared amixture of pigments which I spreadwith a brush, and then smeared itusing a brush soaked in thinner. I did itby setting this on the corners of thearmored surface and on those areasthat usually accumulate dirt. I finished by doing an oil mixture of

50 and gloss varnish, to create greaseand fuel spills and then used a softpencil to simulate wear on someedges. I would like to end this review by

thanking mi fr iend Luis FernandoSolanas for his wise advice and com-ments, which makes this hobby doublyfun when we get together on Sundaysin the Agrupacin Artstica Aragonesa.

Germans drew a white cross on the

cases containing water. Sometimes

they also painted a W right by the

opening which stood for Wasser

(water).


Soft pencil lead has been used to

convey friction in metal areas such as

the teeth of each track section and

some protuberant edges in the

armoring.

Base color for the tracks is

Model Color acrylic 871. It has

been given several earth colored

oil washes and Mig Productions

pigment washes.

52


Kl.Pz.Bef.Wg. (Sd.Kfz. 265),

Poland, September 1939.

Kl.Pz.Bef.Wg. (Sd.Kfz. 265),

Pz.Rgt. 5, 21. Pz.Div., Gambur,

Lybia, November 1941.

53


54

This PTO Sherman is one of those models Ive always wanted to build and wasdelighted to see Dragon release it; I had purchased it primarily based on the boxart and the 250 parts listed, as the typical 700-1000 part Dragon kits tend to scare

me off.

By: Steve Palffy Pictures by the auther

Dragon 1/35

ow there is some debate as towhether the marines usedthis late production 75mm

gun 47 degrees hull plate M4A2?Well the reference I have you cant

tell the difference between M4A3 andM4A2, you cant see the rear hull (diffe-rent exhausts)either because off rem-nants of wading trunks (snorkel) or thelighting or shadows, there are also few ifany ? photos or movies of the rear upper

deck (smaller doors on M4A2), and asfar as documentaries they are basicallyonly referred to as Tanks if the wordSherman is even used, let alone M4A2or A3 etc. Now for the paint, there arequite a few images of three color Sher-mans (black and white) and sand andgreen or just green in color, but I knowIve seen green, red brown and sandones somewhere!

I just really liked the box art so acamouflage of red brown, sand and greenplus the addition of plank armour, hatchspikes and sandbag armour it would be!DID I SAY I REALLY LIKED THE BOXART!

I have noticed that the box art onthe vast majority of the Dragon kits Ihave purchased are all painted in thesame style.

This kit was a nice easy straight for-ward build just study and follow the ins-tructions, just a few minor things towatch for

Part A41 the tow hitch should beglued on with the release handle facingup.

Parts A66 idler mounts should beglued to give some tension to the track.

Trim a little off the bottom of partsC4 rear lamps or the guards will not fit.

Glue part B20 inside turret first thengun mantlet parts from outside.

You will have heaps of spare partsleft over, double check instructions sothat you didnt forget any. 55

A S S E M B L Y

Model before paint,

sandbags, spikes and

plank armour.

Model before paint, nice

to have tow cable

included in kit.

Plank armour

added from

sheet styrene

note detail also

on inside of

wheels.

N

54-61 ING SHERMAN:PzI.F 10/05/13 13:11 Pgina 55

The first step in painting is a goodbase or primer coat in this case becauseof the metal parts Tamiya spray primerwas used.

AirbrushingAll colors used for airbrushing are

Tamiya:Using my Tamiya spray work Hg-T

airbrush, starting with Buff for all the

running gear, tracks and lower hull, thiswas then followed by deck tan for thelight camouflage color, next the green(field grey gives a nice faded greencolor) was applied by first outlining thepattern and then coloring inside thelines, the same was repeated usingNATO brown.

A panel fade of mostly thinner, whiteand deck tan was then applied (aftersome chips and scratches added bybrush).

Adding detailResin 75mm ammunition crates

were added as part of rear deck armour.

Hatch spikesThese were welded on the real vehi-

cle so that satchel charges could not beplaced directly on the hatches the spacecreated between the two preventingthem from being blown open.

Using 0.3mm drill bit in pin viceholes were drilled into all hatches.

Short pieces of 0.3mm copper wirewere then glued into this using instantglue.

Copper wire is then trimmed tolength with side cutters, and then bentto desired angle.

Plank armourAdditional plank armour was added

to the bogies, this was fabricated from1.5mm sheet styrene, and the grainapplied by dragging hack saw bladesdown its length, also knots, scrapes etcusing knife point.

Bolts were added, removing/shea-ring them from the plethora of unusedleft over kit parts.

Planks were then attached to bogiesusing 1.5mm styrene scrap as spacer.

SandbagsThese were simply made by rolling

out some epoxy two parts putty into5mm noodles.

Cutting these into 10mm long pie-ces.

Slightly rounding off the edges.Gently press knife blade around for

seams.Slightly flatten them. Push them gently into place on the

model.Using blade creases are added.A knot is attached by rolling a small

ball of putty attaching it to one end andindenting it with blade.56

P A I N T I N G

Deck tan is

airbrushed

onto areas

that will

retain light

camouflage

color.

The entire model is

given a primer coat of

Tamiya spray primer,

this serves to give

good adhesion for

following paint and

allows you to easily

spot any gaps or

imperfections.

Ower hull

and tracks are

given a coat

of buff.

KIT USED

Kit:- USMC M4A2 PTO Late, Dragonref. 6462, 1/35 scale.


57

Tracks were given a random coat oftitanium.

Note: panel fade concentrates colorto the center of thing leaving edges dar-ker or base color.

Brush workAll colors used are Vallejo: Chipping and scratches of dark sand

on wooden areas only and bronze greenon everything else.

Tools, metal parts: bronze greenlight dry brush of oily steel, woodenHandles: Iraqi sand streaked with vermi-llion.

Spare track: bronze green.Sandbags: stone grey.Crates: dark and Iraqi sand.Headlights: off white followed by

oily steel wash.Rear lights: upper: vermillion, lower

bronze green.Rubber road wheels: bronze greenDrive sprocket teeth and idler: bron-

ze green edged with oily steel.Exhaust: spotting and chipping of

bronze green.Note: bronze green is very dark gre-

en\ grey almost a faded black.

The green areas are first outlined and then colored in, I am

using field grey as it gives a nice faded green base to

weather over.

A panel fade of deck tan, white and thinner is applied by airbrush. Using a fine brush all details are painted in stone

grey for sandbags and bronze green for metal tools.

Using a fine brush, scratches of

bronze green are applied to

everything and dark sand to just the

planks.

NATO brown is then applied.


58

WeatheringUsing airbrush a panel fade off

mostly thinner and white was appliedto sandbags, crates and randomly strea-ked on vehicle.

An oil wash of burnt umber wasapplied to everything followed by pin-point washes of black and Sienna;tracks were given a second Siennawash.

Dark sand was diluted with waterand pin point washed into tracks andwheels.

Final touchesA little exhaust staining was added,

also some grass roots and litter to thebase, thread was also added to tiedown sandbags and crates.

Al final sobran montones de piezaspara el cajn de sastre, hay que compro-bar bien las instrucciones para no olvi-darse de pegar alguna pieza necesaria.

With airbrush crates and sand bags are given a panel fade

of white. Thread ropes are then tied in.

Tracks are dry brushed oily steel over titanium silver over

buff.

Using large

brush burnt

umber oil

wash is applied

over entire

model.

Pinpoint washes of Sienna, burnt

umber and black oils are then applied.

Using a silver pencil very fine

scratches are applied around hatches

and other high wear areas.

Rubber road wheels are painted bronze green.


59

Ground work consists of celluloseclay, using a stiff brush applied overcling wrap so that it can be removedonce dry to make painting easier.

After it has set for about half anhour vehicle is pushed into it to leavetrack marks.

Palm plantsLogs/trunks are made by slightly cut-

ting into dowel using little pressure witha pair of side cutters.

Leaves/fronds are made by pushingfeathers into base or in case of largepalm gluing them to trunk.

Base paintingEntire base is airbrushed buff follo-

wed by deck tan, leaves/fronds NATOgreen

An oil wash of burnt umber liberallyapplied.

Pin point washes of black, primarallyto trunks,

G R O U N D

Palm logs are simply dowel that is

indented by side cutters (creating

rings).

While still wet cellulose clay base is textured with a stiff brush, vehicle, palm

logs, debris and palm fronds are also inserted.

Burnt umber wash is applied to entire base, followed by random spots of sienna

and the palm trunks are given a light wash of black.

Entire base is airbrushed buff followed by highlighting of deck tan; palm fronds

are painted NATO green.

A wash of burnt umber oil paint and odorless solvent is mixed up in an old

saucer.


60

Tamiya weathering set is used to apply soot just above exhausts on rear plate.

Dark sand diluted with water is brushed

into the tracks and lower running gear.

The entire model is airbrushed matt

varnish mixed with water.

Complete PTO Sherman model ready for display.


61

COLOUR CHART

TAMIYA (spray)AS18 light grey

TAMIYA (acrylics)X-32 titanium silverXF-2 flat whiteXF-55 deck tanXF-57 buffXF-65 field greyXF-67 NATO greenXF-68 NATO brown

MODEL COLOR (acrylics)520 matt varnish819 Iraqui sand847 dark sand865 oily steel884 stone grey897 bronze green947 red

REMBRANDT (oils)54092 burnt umber54112 burnt Sienna57012 black

TAMIYA (wet pigments)87080 soot

Run away it has spikes! Headlamps were painted base coat off white, oily steel

wash followed by black oil wash.

Note the heavy stains from the bomb thrower on the turret.


here are a number of productsin the market that deal withdecals in order to conceal this

unwanted effect. We are talking aboutsome special liquid that soften thistransparent rim or film and help it fitinto the surface that the decal has beenapplied to. No matter how rugged thesurface might be, these liquid soften thedecal and help it adhere to the surface.These products are made by severalbrands.

These products usually work wellbut we should bear in mind that unfor-tunately decals sometimes have a verythick transparent film. When this is thecase, the edge of the decal has a tinybump around it which makes it lookpretty unrealistic. This can sometimes beconcealed by further trimming the decalusing a brand new X-acto knife. Thiscutting to measure is relatively simpleto do when were dealing with a Germancross, an American star, block numerals,etc. This is the most efficient way to getrid of this transparent rim and keep onlythe printed motif which is just what weneed.

What happens when the motif hashollow areas on the inside or its just toocomplex to trim with a knife? In thiscase we will have to use varnish to con-ceal the film. This is a simple processand results are usually very satisfactory.You just have to chose the right varnish,clean well your airbrush kit and be a lit-tle neat.

I recommend acrylic varnish, becauseenamels can be ruined during the weat-hering process, like when youre usingturpentine, White Spirit or enamel thin-ner. This will only give ruinous results.

First youll have to airbrush gloss var-nish in two thin layers, but only on theareas where decals belong. Varnish

should be thinned 50% using thebrands specific thinner. Once varnishdries up to touch (better still if we can

TT

When we apply decals on a kit we should bear in mind that once were done

with the painting processes we are usually able to see the transparent rim of the

decal itself.

M

62

By: Fernando Gonzlez SnchezText by: Carlos de Diego Vaquerizo

Pictures by: Fernando Caellas Planchuelo

ADAPTING DECALS

odelling Lessons

The products employed for decal adaptation. We have chosen for the review an

armed vehicle covered with a rugged antimagnetic paste called Zimmerit.

The area

where the

decal is going

to be fixed is

covered - a

couple of

layers- with

gloss varnish.

The use of the

airbrush kit is

most

necessary for

the varnish.

62-63 AULA:PzI.F 10/05/13 13:16 Pgina 62

63

wait two hours), well place the firstdecal and apply with a brush the liquidweve mentioned earlier, brushing thedecal several times until it fully adapts tothe surface. Leftover liquid can be care-fully removed with a clean brush whilepressing against the decal to get rid ofunwanted air bubbles. If air bubbles cantbe eliminated with a brush, then well

have to puncture the decal with a needleor a knife. Bubbles are however rare onsmall decals. We do this with everydecal applied. Once dry, we airbrush anew layer of gloss varnish (two or threeif the film is too thick). This is done tofully integrate the decal with the surface,and then we get rid of the glossy effectby applying a final layer of mat varnish.

This technique really conceals thedecals film and we obtain a much morerealistic result. One final recommenda-tion: Wait one or two days before youbegin with the weathering treatments.

In this picture weve also cut the paper support under the

decal in order to let you see it better in the picture. This

should not be done because it only helps curve down the

edges of the decal creating some adaptation problems.

The transparent film around the

decal is trimmed right to the

printed surface. You should use

a brand new knife and dont

exert too much pressure when

cutting. On straight edges its

advisable to use a metal ruler to

guide the cut.

When the paper support of the decal has been under warm

water for about 30 seconds, we apply the decal to the kit

using a pair of tweezers.

Excess product is removed using a cotton swab. This

product has a tendency to leave some remains, and that is

why excess has to be removed (if possible) with a brush.

A final layer of gloss varnish integrates the decal to the

surface.

The adapting product is distributed through the decal

using a brush. Pass the brush several times through the

decal while exerting a slight pressure.

62-63 AULA:PzI.F 10/05/13 13:17 Pgina 63

64

editorialeditorial

Publishing ManagerRodrigo Hernndez Cabos

Editor in ChiefCarlos de Diego Vaquerizo

Translated byAndrs Prez Fernndez

Have collaborated in this issue:Antonio Toms Aguilera CanoJavier Redondo JimnezOctavio Dez CmaraJordi Escarr GonzlezJos Manuel Flores PrezMario Gabs RuizSteve PalffyFernando Gonzlez Snchez

PhotographersRodrigo Hernndez Cabos Fernando Caellas PlanchueloRal Fernndez Ruiz

IllustrationsCarlos de Diego Vaquerizo

Lay OutRal Fernndez RuizKOMMAD S.L.

Printed byIBERGRAPHIC 2002

Scanning & FilmsettingACCIN PRESS, S.A.J. David Hernndez ChacnRal Fernndez Ruiz

Computer GraphicsJ.David Hernndez Chacn

Editorial and Technical Staff,Administration and AdvertisingACCIN PRESS, S.A.c/Ezequiel Solana, 1628017 MadridTel.: 913 675 708

914 086 135Fax: 914 085 [email protected]

SubscriptionsNorth American SubscriptionMMD-Squadron1115 Crowley DriveCarrollton, Texas 75011-5010USA

In Spain: Valentn Garca BezTel. +34 913 675 708

Published byACCIN PRESS, S.A

ISSN: 1886-4457

The reproduction of the images andtexts is prohibited, using anycurrent or future technical mediumwithout written consent of theauthor. ACCION PRESS, S.A. doesnot necessarily support itscollaborators opinions.

The vast majority of the vehicles found in this issue are very small models notvery highly appreciated by hobbyists, but these have a hobby value greater thanits size and respective real life performances. The almost insignificant ItalianM13/40 offers a great deal of camouflage and configuration options partly due tothe numerous crew attempts to improve its weak armoring. Having a similar sizeand performance the Type 95 played a crucial part in the initial Japanese warvictories: This was a vehicle designed to work in the jungle or successfully crossunstable bridges. This was clearly demonstrated in the conquest of the Malaypenninsula, but eventually these vehicles slowly took the role of small staticimprovised bunkers like the unit featured in this issue.

When the Panzer I took part in the Spanish Civil War it already was a datedvehicle. The use of this vehicle as a communications center was a key factor inEurope and in Africa as well. The harshness of this scenario helps createinteresting paint and wear effects on scale kits.

The Hotchkiss H-39 is another small vehicle with a wide range ofconfigurations even if its effective range was highly reduced. However, thevariety of French camouflage schemes or the German anti-guerrilla versions makefor an interesting vehicle.

Two well known middle sized vehicles: the T-34/85 in an intricate Berlindiorama with a number of figures, and on the other hand an American Shermantank featured in an interesting version used in one of the two final Pacific battlescenarios: Iwo Jima and Okinawa sporting the spectacular three colorcamouflage scheme used in the Brimstone Island.

As usual we include a figure review: a German tank crew member sporting arare uniform from the German reserve submarine warehouses used also byPanzer crewmen from 1944 onwards.

We close this issue with a technical review on handling decals on unevensurfaces.

Rodrigo Hernndez Cabos

64 ING STAFF:ESP STAFF 10/05/13 13:18 Pgina 64

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Panzer Aces 32