Playground Buenos Aires, Ed. 4

8/11/2019 Playground Buenos Aires, Ed. 4

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BUENOSAIRES

GUIDESPRING IN

THE CITY

ALTERNATIVESOUVENIR

OCT-NOV 2014 | FREE magazine | N° 4







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CONTENTS

5

A Stroll Through the City 06Spring Poetry 09

Al Fresco Buenos Aires 10

Scribbles from a Somm 14

What Colour, Which Wine? 15

Top 5 Argentine Authors 17A Bookworm’s Guide to BA 18

Alternative Souvenir Guide 20

An Almond Treat 22

Destination Guide 24

Artist in Profle 28Prost or Salud? 31

Mate - An Argentine’s Best Friend 34

Top 5 36

Porteño Profle 39

Restaurant Guide 40Bar & Café Guide 44

Playground Tips 46

Map 48

Where to Find Us 50

Walking Tours in BA

Our lover comes back

Top Terraces and Gardens for Spring Cocktails

White Wines for Warm Nights

A beginner’s guide to the different coloured wines

A pick of the authors to read while in BA

The best bookshops to visit

A pick of some unusual mementos

An addict’s guide to Almond croissants in the city

Puerto Madryn

Florencia Della Vedova

Oktoberfest in Argentina

A guide to drinking Mate

BA Fashion Designers

Meeting the locals

Top spots to eat in the city

Where to drink and be marry

Useful Info for being in Buenos Aires

Where to get free copies



A STROLL THROUGH THE CITY

Walking tours in BA

A STROLL

Walking tours n

GH THE

‘It’s Spring in Buenos Aires,which means we’re that much

closer to those epic Argentinesummers: abundant sun,cloudless skies, personal puddleinducing humidity, and sub-

tropical climates that mayinspire you to stay inside and

tethered to the air conditioning.Before it gets too hot this season,

take the time to check out a fewof the great walking tours thatBuenos Aires has to offer. Hereare a few standout tours:

5

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DECODING BA’S GRAFFITI

Graffitimundo (www.graffitimundo.com) is a

non-profit organization that provides tours on the

history of Buenos Aires street art. For $25 USD they’ll

take you all over the city to see some of the most

iconic work by local and international graffiti artists.

You’ll learn about the political climate and inspiration

for the art, visit a great bar called Post, where you can

meet some of the graffiti artists and buy their work;

and even potentially visit some of the artists at their

studio in Villa Crespo.

The tour is in English and is led by knowledgeable and

charismatic tour guides who are passionate about

urban art and supporting local artists. After going

on this tour, I couldn’t stop raving about the artwork

I had seen to my friends. I learned so much about

Argentina’s history and now have a new favorite bar,

which I’ve been to three times in the last month to

enjoy the art and free popcorn.

SPOTTING STREET ART

Another great artsy option is Buenos Aires Street Artand Graffitti Tour (www.buenosairesstreetart.com) On Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays at 2.20pm you

can discover why Buenos Aires is one of the street art

capitals of the world. Walking through Villa Urquiza and

Coghlan Art District and local neighborhoods that aren’t

in the tourist guidebooks, you’ll see expansive murals

by local and international artists, including Blu, Martin

Ron and Fintan Magee.

The Buenos Aires Street Art Tour is a great way toexplore different parts of the city with expert guides

and learn about the origins of these incredible designs.

For $20 USD you get a 2.5 hour tour, but for just a little

bit more you can also experience a private aerosol class

with a local artist.

A HISTORIC CITY TOUR

Prefer history to art? Buenos Aires Free Tour (www.bafreetour.com) offers a daily downtown tour at 11 a.m.

led by local guides that will teach you about the history

and culture of Buenos Aires. While on the tour, you’ll seeeverything from the National Congress, the obelisk,

Plaza de Mayo, Cafe Tortoni, Calle Florida, to Casa

Rosada. The tour guides excel at making the tour feel

incredibly relevant, connecting buildings, landmarks, and

past events to the politics and protests of present day.

At 5:00 p.m., Buenos Aires Free Tour also offers an

“Aristocratic Tour,” which allows you to see additional

sites like the famous Recoleta Cemetery, Plaza San

Martin and the Basílica Nuestra Señora del Pilar. Both

of these tours ensure that you see a lot of city in a

short amount of time. Come prepared to hit the

7

Graftimundo - “ Cabaio”

BA Street Art - Martin Ron

Painting aeroplane pulling Chaqueño’s hair

Graftimundo - Ever

Graftimundo - “Gualicho”

Teatro Colón



pavement by wearing good walking shoes, bringing

a bottle of water and a snack (these tours go without

stopping for about 2.5 hours); extra money for tipping

your guide, and a sense of humor; which you’ll need for

some of the cornier jokes on the tour.

WALKING THE BIG CITY

City Walkers (www.citywalkers.com.ar) also offers

a good free 11 a.m. tour Monday through Saturday

starting from the Obel isk downtown. They cover many

of the same sights as Buenos Aires Free Tour, but also

hit up Puerto Madero and Teatro Colón. For a fee, City

Walkers can also organize a guided tour for you and a

group around San Telmo and La Boca. These are iconic

parts of the city, imbued with history and old Buenos

Aires charm; but are often overlooked by tour groups

because they are more difficult to access and farther

from the downtown and more hotel abundant areas of

the city.

Walking tours are a great way to see and experience

the city, while injecting some light exercise into your

day between helpings of steak and alfajores . And

whichever tour you choose, you’ll be sure to be

impressed by the ageless beauty of Buenos Aires.

Plaza de Mayo and Casa Rosada

City Walkers



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Poem by Sol Cifre

When we hope our lover comes back

and hold our hands again.

When we wish for eternal days of flowers

and the scent of a fresh sunrise.

When our eyelids taste the wonderful breeze

and recall tender memories.

When we think our lives can start anew.

A moment of hope: Spring.

Pedlars walk aimlessly

and they don’t mind.

Cyclists ride at their own speed

and they don’t mind either.

It all flows so smoothly!

The merry-go-round is crowded

with smiles and laughter

small fingers waving at their parents.

A moment of leisure: Spring.Walking up for work is not even a burden now,

the sky is waiting

and a brand new spring day sprinkles us with joy.







Oak Bar. The Palacio is old school glamour in the city’s

swankiest neighbourhood.

PERFECT PATIOS

There’s a patio for every day of the week and every month

of the year in Buenos Aires, meeting brunch, cocktail or

supper needs. One of the slickest urban patios is at VerneClub (Medrano 1475, Palermo) , which has received quite

the makeover since its 2013 opening. Mood lighting, love

benches and ample foliage, this is a sultry outdoor corner

of Palermo that smokers and serious cocktail appreciators

will fall for.

While Milión (Paraná 1048, Recoleta) has been around

for donkeys years, that’s not to say it’s lost its touch,

far from it. Rub shoulders with a smart crowd keen for

foreign connections in one of the most stunning belle

époque mansions open for public consumption. Those

with cash to splash should dine out at the ground floor

restaurant; if your exchange rate was more bust than

boom, then grab a delicious frozen basil daiquiri and linger

on the well-kempt marble stairway outside. The green

glass of deliciousness will just about last the evening.

For a simpler affair that takes in a lunch or tea with every

last crumb made in house by owner Cusi, the answer

is Palermo Hollywood’s Cusic café (El Salvador 1016,Palermo). With two cute outdoor patios, nestle under the

drooping trees at the front or nab the recycled furniture

and comfy cushions on the more private back patio that is

bursting with herbs. We love the huevos mareados brunch

dish, comprising a dainty fruit platter on English china(is there any other kind?), a vast mug of coffee, hand-

squeezed orange juice plus scrambled eggs and smoked

salmon.

In Monserrat, La panadería de Pablo (Defensa 269, SanTelmo/Montserrat) is a stylish bet for a decent lunch.

Order some starters such as the burrata cheese and kick

back next to the exposed brick and leafy wall under the

pergola. The panadería also holds a stunning terrace

secret up its sleeve, the scene of many a High On The

Roof dance party – this third floor terrace’s focal point is

the outdoor pool but of greater interest is the stunning18th century San Francisco basilica almost within tou-

ching distance.

TOP TERRACES

As for tip-top terraces, the gamut runs much wider with

hip watering-holes, French bistros and posh hotels all

throwing down the gauntlet in a bid to capture outdoor

eaters and drinkers. Snug booths are the name of the

game at Rey de Copas’ (Gorriti 5176, Palermo) first floor

terrace, which made its début this past winter. Order a

Cynar Julep and settle in for the evening with a gang of

Post Street Bar (Thames 1885, Palermo)

Verne Club

La P anadería de Pablo

Rey de Copas

Duhau Terraces



PABLOORTIZAVILAGRAPHICDESIGNER [email protected]

+54 9 261 648-7797

Porfolio onlinewww.behance.net/PabloOrtizAvila

CONTACT ME

friends. And although we’d rather not tempt fate, there

are plenty of standalone heaters to keep spring chills

away.

Two great spots but with slightly rougher edges to them

are Post Street Bar (Thames 1885, Palermo) and Laesperanza de los Ascurra (Fitz Roy 1818, Palermo).Check in at Post Street for a beer and head upstairs to its

well-graffitied terrace adorned with hundreds of familiar

stencils and characters from the repertoire of local street

artists. At La esperanza not a huge amount of love has

gone into its similar shaped rooftop but as beer runs

cheap (Spanish style, in small cañas ) and the tapas are

the real deal, we can forgive them the oversight.

For a different kind of drinking experience, set up camp

but without the tent at Camping (Pueyrredón 2501,Recoleta). With a cafeteria-on-a-campsite vibe, a trifle

odd at the upmarket Design Centre in posh Recoleta,

this summer will tell whether the self-service style

so common in British pubs will work out in BA. In the

meantime, sup on a red beer from local Martínez brewer

Siete Colores, tap into Camping’s very cool and clever

virtual jukebox and enjoy oxygen from the lush potted

plants doing their bit for nearby Figueroa Alcorta Avenue’s

carbon footprint.

Lucky guests staying at Recoleta’s upmarket HubPorteño (Rodríguez Pena 1967, Recoleta) will love the

boutique hotel’s fourth floor. A lot of love has gone into

its vertical garden and gorgeous gazebo, perfect to take

refuge from the penetrating sun with a cooling cocktail at

hand. Hub also organises pop-up events, which is when

mere mortals get to share some of the love.

Then there are two delicious brunch spots both dealing in

suntrap terraces: L’atelier de Céline (Carlos Calvos 242,San Telmo) has a cute yet spacious terrace dating back

to 1807 decorated with darling fairy lights, while Decata’s

(Honduras 6100, Palermo) comfy and enormous sofas

have made many punters lose track of an afternoon.

For a shop then pop (it into your mouth) experience, dip

into the Pick Market (Ugarteche 3154, Palermo) inPalermo Botánico. With an extremely decent array of

charcuterie, breads and deli fodder, select and pay before

heading upstairs to the tranquil terrace with pub-style

benches. You also pay vinoteca prices on wine, so grab a

cool bottle of rosé from the chiller to pep up your picnic.

Another spot to keep an eye out for is Blanch’s (Carranza2181, Palermo) new terrace. After their recent move from

Las Cañitas to Palermo Hollywood, owners Diego and

Ale have their sights set on making their upstairs so cool,

comfy and irresistible that sipping an aperétif will soon

morph into dinner. Due to open end of September.

Estamos buscando gente por formar parte delequipo de Playground Buenos Aires

Estamos buscando alguien con estos atributosMotivado | sociable | inteligente |¡y con ganas a trabajar!

Atributos deseables (pero no necesario)Experiencia en ventas | nivel de inglés altoo medio | transporte propio o facilidad en eluso de transporte público

¡El trabajo puede ser full-time, part-timeo fexible!

Contactanos para una entrevista y para aprendermás sobre la posición de [email protected]

¿ESTÁS BUSCANDO TRABAJO? ¿TE GUSTA NUESTRA REVISTA?

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S c r i bb l e s f r o m a S o m m ...

Doña Paula Riesling 2013 by Doña Paula $102 This wine is a bit uncommon of the typical varietals produced in Argentina. There are very fewwineries that sell Riesling, but it is a very interesting wine: with aromas of white owers andsome really subtle citrus notes, with a very nice acidity. Special and entertaining. This wine alsoshows Doña Paula’s openness towards creative horizons.

Tomero Reserva Semillón 2012 by Bodega Vistalba $120With captivating aromas this wine does not go unnoticed. It is a beautiful white wine, which has a golden yellow color; in the nose combining orals and notes of vanilla. The palate isvery subtle and elegant medium intensity. Captivating, friendly, worth trying. Because I enjoy it,I denitely recommend it!

Alta Vista Premium Torrontés 2013 by Alta Vista $110Although the winery is located in Mendoza, this wine comes from Salta Cafayate. It is a beautiful bright yellow. Itis a wine that I love to smell, and I never tire of doing so; it presents fruity and oral aromas. It has a pleasant

freshness in the mouth. In this case, we are dealing with a characteristic variety of Argentina, and in my view it is agood example of it. I hope I at least tempted you to try it, and truly hope that you relish it!

Rama Negra Chardonnay 2013 by Casarena $85A neatly appealing wine, that is a great choice for the price it presents. Chardonnay is the queen of white varieties,and well expressed by Casarena winery. A subtly golden yellow, which combines tropical fruit and citrus fruits aromasas well as nicely integrated with oak. With a good presence on the palate and a lingering nish, I consider it agreat friend for Spring, and I hope you will agree.

Pulenta Sauvignon Blanc 2013 by Pulenta Estate $100 The freshness and subtlety are present. In this case, we are faced with a white wine, with light green ashes. A pleasant aromatic intensity, citrus notes stand out, especially grapefruit. A mediumintensity and balanced acidity make it a pleasant and easy to drink. A good example of aSauvignon Blanc from Argentina; worthy of being appreciated.

I really wish you have a beautiful spring and hopefully youwill be with some of these alternatives! Until the next season!

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Ca p t i va t i n g w h i t e s f o r l e s s t h a n $15 U S D !Summer is coming and, at least in my opinion, there are moreimportant things than getting in shape! Looking good is not

just a matter of appearance; happiness also makes us look more beautiful. So, in my opinion, keeping good white wineoptions at reasonable prices in the fridge is a nice idea for

these beautiful warm spring afternoons. Spring, here we come!



Have you ever wondered why white wine is white, and

red wine is red (or sometimes purple)? It seems obvious

to say that white wine is made from white grapes, and

red wine is made from red grapes. And that answer

is pretty much correct, although now what about pink

wine? Pink grapes?! And what if I told you that you can

make a white wine from a red grape? All of a sudden

your artist’s palate of grapes looks a little more muddled…

As a general rule white wine comes from white grapes

(although let’s be honest it looks more yellow than

white, and the grapes were originally green) and red wine comes from red grapes. What makes these wines

different? The colour of the skins, and the properties that

the skins have. White grape skins are generally not used

for very long in the winemaking process. The grapes are

picked, the juice is squeezed out and after fermenting the

juice, hey presto, you have a white wine!

Red wine has a slightly different process. The dark

coloured grape skins contain certain components that add

colour, aroma, tannins and structure to a wine - properties

often desirable in a red wine. So once you pick the

grapes, instead of squeezing the juice instantly, you leave

the juice, pips and skins all in the same container for a

while (anywhere from a week to a month!) so the juice

gets all the properties of the skins, and then you squeeze

out the juice and are left with a red juice that makes red wine. Easy.

Now how about pink, and white red? For pink (aka blush

or rosé) you just pick your red grapes as usually and only

leave the red skins in contact with the juice for a few

hours or maybe a couple days, meaning that the clear or white juice has only been lightly coloured by the skins

and has just a little bit of structure. After a short amountof time, you squeeze the juice out and this now slightly

pink or salmon-coloured juice becomes rosé wine.

For white red wine (see the white Malbec on the opposi-

te page), you squeeze the juice from the grape immedia-

tely so there is little skin contact. Almost all grapes have a

clear juice so you can make white wine from red grapes.

If you think of champagne, a large proportion of the

grapes used for champagne are red grapes, Pinot Noir.

Although in Champagne they are almost always turned

into white wine.

Sadly it doesn’t work in the reverse – and you can’t really

15



Amanda Barnes is a British wine writer based

in South America who has been tasting her way

through the region’s colour spectrum and wines

for five years. You can read more of her wine and

travel articles at www.amandabarnes.co.uk @amanda_tweeter

make white grapes go red (adding

food colouring is quite illegal…)

Although in some cases a white

grape will turn pinky red when you

leave it in the sun too long. But as

the general rule, white grapes make

white wines, red grapes make red

wines, although sometimes redgrapes make pink and white wines.

And what about all the shades in

between? The purple, black, ruby

and orange? That has to do with the

different varieties (each has a slightly

different colour), and the aging

and extraction process… I’ll leave

that one for another day, or at least

another bottle of wine!

C O M I N G S O O N



Julio Cortázar, essayist, novelist, and short story writer,

was one of the most significant figures during the boom

of 20th century Latin American literature. Cortazar’s use of

interior monologue and linear versus non-linear conceptions

of time has left future authors indebted to his work.

Top Reads | Hopscotch, Manuel for Manuel, Blow-Up

The early 20th century poet Alfonsina Storni wrote poems

full of cynicism and irony based on her frustrations with love

and attraction. Through her poetry and public image, Storni

gave a voice to gender inequality issues, such as granting

women’s right to vote.

Top Reads | And the Head Began to Burn, Supertelephone,

You Want Me White

Rachel Davies came to Argentina for her

love of literature and is spending a year

studying the different writers and voices

of the country. You can read her travel blog

www.rachelrevels.blogspot.com.ar

Perhaps the most famous of all, Jorge Luis Borges is a short

story writer, poet, and essayist who is credited to have

started the magical realism trend of the late 20th century

boom in Latin America.

Top Reads | Fictions, The Aleph

Griselda Gambaro, most celebrated for her plays, spoke out

against the Dirty War in Argentina through fiction. As a result,

her novel, Ganarse la muerte, was banned in Argentina for

its obvious rebellion and she was exiled to Spain.

Top Reads | The Camp, The Impenetrable Madame X,

Information for Foreigners

Another important woman on the literature scene,

novelist Luisa Valenzuela published her first short story at

age eighteen and hasn’t stopped writing since. Known for

her political satire and fearlessness to write about the erotic,

Valenzuela uses literature to remember the events the

government would rather have you forget.

Top Reads | Strange Things Happen Here, Clara,

The Lizard’s Tail

Bfor you lav Argntina, bsur to pick up som of th grat

litratur that has ben producd inthis cultural country. Rachl Davispicks a list of th Top 5 Argntin writrs to try bfor you fly!

ARGENTINE WRITERS TO TRYBEFORE YOU FLY

1.BORGES 4.CORTÁZAR

5.STORNI2.GAMBARO

3.VALENZUELA

TOP 5

17



CRACK UPThis Palermo based bookshop not only stocks a vast

array of local and international reads but also includes an

intimate bar/cafe, where you can sit and read one of your

favourites whilst sipping on a large glass of Malbec and

enjoying some yummy food. The bookshop also hosts

regular workshops if you’re looking to tighten your grasp

of the local language (and its literature.)

EL ATENEO (GRAND SPLENDID)When mentioning bookshops in Buenos Aires, El Ateneo

is certainly one of the most celebrated; voted second

most beautiful bookshop in the world by The Guardian

newspaper in the UK just a few years ago. The theatre

turned bookshop has visitors continually passing through

its wide doors to gaze upon a stunning collection ofbooks, under beautifully painted ceilings and detailed

cornices. Readers can be found sipping on a ‘cortado’ in

the cafe that sits on what would have been ‘the stage’, or

snuggled away in one of the theatre’s original boxes.

WALRUS BOOKSThis small yet ample bookshop mostly stocks second

hand books in English and is popular with visitors and

locals alike. Walrus Books is also well known for itsEnglish speaking classes that include: creative writing,

book reviews and even a look at the art of ‘poetry slam’.

Costa Rica 4767, Palermo

11 4831 3502

www.crackup.com.ar Mon / Sun 10am – 9pm

Sante Fe 1860, Recoleta

11 4813 6052

www.yenny-elateneo.comMon / Thurs 9am - 10pm

Fri & Sat 9am-11pm

Sun Middday-10pm

Estados Unidos 617, San Telmo

11 4300 7135

www.walrus-books.com.arTues / Sun Midday - 8pm





SCENT OF ARGENTINA IN A BOTTLELocal artisan perfume laboratory

Fueguia produces its own

fragrances, inspired by the history,

nature and legends of Argentina.

Each unique multi-layered scent is

carefully concocted in their Palermo

perfume laboratory, from notes of the

glaciers of El Calafate to hints of

dulce de leche , Malbec and the

Pampas grasslands. Sniff and smell

your way through the heady array of

poetically-named scents in their chic

Recoleta boutique until you find one

to your liking that comes packaged in

a glass bottle and handmade wooden

boxes. Scented candles, room sprays

and mini handbag-sized roll on

perfumes are also available.

Fueguia, Avenida Alvear 1680,Recoleta, Tel: 11 4311 5360,www.fueguia.com

BYO BAGTransport your favourite bottle of

Malbec home in style (and any

subsequent bottles of wine) in one of

Vintium's leather bags, designed

specifically to carry bottles of wine.

The bags are all handcrafted from

buttery soft cow leather and come in

a range of sizes, from colourful one-

bottle bags to six bottle compartment

picnic bags for those espumante

picnics in the park. Vintium's bags

If you're looking for a special memento from your BuenosAires jaunt, something distinctly Argentine that's a notchup from the standard football shirts, mate cups, dulce de

leche and tango paraphernalia, here are our picks for somealternative souvenirs to take home.



Sophie Lloyd is a personal shopper who has been scoutingher way around the many shops and designers of BuenosAires for over 4 years. She offers customized, private shoppingtours, group shopping tours, customized shopping itineraries,personal shopping/gift services and even wardrobe edits withher business www.shop-buenosaires.com. Email Sophie [email protected] (11) 3921 0460.

are available in a number of wineries

around town or make an appointment

with the Uruguayan-born designer

herself Paola Castro to view the

collection in her private showroom.

While you're there, you can browse

her stylish new line of leather

handbags.

Vintium, private showroom, byappointment only, [email protected],Cell: 9 11 59775315www.vintium.com

A VINTAGE PORTRAITStep back in time and say cheese for

the old-school camera at Studio Fotín

and take home a unique vintage-style

portrait of yourself (and your holiday

buddy). The studio run by Argentine

photographer Juan Barrientos and his

partner Meghan Stone recreates one

of the first photographic processes,

wet plate collodion, that dates back

to 1850, producing unique ambrotype

portraits that are instantly developed

on glass plates. Adding to the

experience, the private, appointment-

only studio is situated in a charming

old San Telmo house.

Studio Fotín, by appointment only,[email protected],studiofotin.com

A PIECE OF BA'S STREET ARTUnless you've walked around the city

with your eyes closed, you've surely

noticed Buenos Aires' vibrant street

art scene. Arts organisation GraffitiMundo is at the forefront of the

scene, providing a platform for young

urban artists from Buenos Aires and

the rest of South America to

showcase their talents. If you like

what you've seen on the street,

join one of their tours or make an

appointment to visit their edgy

gallery space and artists' studio in a

beautifully-restored historic building

in San Telmo and take home a piece

of affordable artwork from one of

their artists. You can also commission

your favorite street artist to create

your very own work of art.

Galeria Union, Carlos Calvo 736,San Telmo, by appointment only,Cel: 9 11 3683 3219, galeriaunion.com / graffitimundo.com

HANDKNITTED WITH LOVELeather aside, Argentina's lands

are rich in other fine materials such

as wool hand spun from flocks of

sheep deep in the Chubut province

of Patagonia. Pay a visit to the newly

opened private showroom of local

label URSA that employs traditional

craft techniques with a modern touch

in the production of handknitted

sweaters, vests and blankets, hand-

dyed in a fresh palette of colours.

Founder and designer Liz Gleeson

(originally from the US) works with

indigenous communities in the southof Argentina as well as local urban

knitting cooperatives in the

production of her limited edition

collections to help them create a

better, more sustainable existence.

She also does a range of funky hand-

printed home textiles.

URSA showroom, by appointmentonly, Abasto, [email protected],www.cyberursa.com

21

URSA

Gratti Mundo

Studio Fotín

Vintium’s

Fueguia



SASHASasha is a cute café in Recoleta where you can enjoy a meal

or get baked goods to go. The almond croissants here are

quite large, big enough to share if you’re not very hungry.

They are really rich with a lot of tasty almond filling and a

generous topping of powdered sugar, if you’re all about

huge almond flavor this is the pastry for you. They have a full

menu here if you’re looking for more than just bakery items.

Juncal 2110, Recoleta, 11 4823-3745, Mon / Sat 7am - 9:30pm

An almond treat on the

streets of Buenos Aires

One thing that’s hard to miss when you cometo Buenos Aires is their facturas (pastries). Itseems as if there is a bakery on every other

corner in some neighborhoods. The most commonfactura you will come across in Buenos Aires is themedialuna . Medialunas are great for breakfast ormerienda (afternoon snack/tea), but now you have

another option. Almond croissants! With an increasein French bakeries in Buenos Aires you can now getyour fill of French delicacies like pan au chocolate

and almond croissants in the city often dubbed theParis of South America.These French pastries are often a richer version ofa croissant with a sweet almond filling. They areusually baked with sliced almonds on top and thendusted with powdered sugar, the recipes vary butthey are all worth a taste. You will usually see them

on menus as croissant de/con almendras . So take abreak during your explorations to stop and enjoy anew local favorite!

Beth Delthony is a lawyer turned travel writerwho has been busy exploring South Americafor the past few years. Check out more ofher food, wine and other adventures on herwebsite. Planning a trip, ask her for tips!www.SantiagoTourist.com @BethDelthony

Almond Croissants

Compañia de Chocolates Storefron



23

COMPAÑIA DE CHOCOLATESCompañia de Chocolates helpfully has a couple location

where you can stop in to get one of their almond croissants.

The croissants here are also big enough to share, and are

quite filling with a ton of almond slices baked onto the top

under a dusting of powdered sugar. If you prefer a sit down

café environment head to their locations in Palermo Chico or

Martinez where they have a cafe in addition to their bakery.

www.companiadechocolates.comRodriguez Peña 1847, 11 4813-9434, Mon / Sat

10am - 7pm, Sun 11am-6pm

Emilio Lamarca 397, 11 4793-3886, Mon / Sun

8:30am - 9pm

Juan Francisco Segui 3551, 11 4801-1339, Mon / Sun

8:30am - 8:30pm

L’EPI BOULANGERIEFor a snack size almond croissant head to L’epi Boulangerie.

Theirs are half the size as most of the others and luckily

about half the price. This version a little lighter on the filling

and the toppings but will still fill your sweet snacking

desires, or you can pick up a few if you’re hungry. They are

only a bakery but they have 3 bakeries around the city

including their newly opened shop in Belgrano.

www.lepi.com.ar Roseti 1769, 11 4552 6402, Tue / Sat 7:30am - 7:30pm

Sun 9am - 1pm

Montevideo 1567, 11 4812 1390, Tue / Sat 8:00am - 8pm

Sun 9am - 1pm

Crámer 2439, 11 4545-6154, Mon / Sat 7:30am - 8:30pm

MALVÓNMalvón is a popular breakfast and lunch spot but they also

have a lot of baked goods that you can order to go or enjoy

in their café. Their almond croissants are medium sized, they

also taste a bit more like a regular croissant with a flakier

consistency, but don’t worry they still filled with sweet

almond goodness. Based on size vs price these are the best

bang for your buck.

www.malvonba.com.ar Serrano 789, 11 4807-1458, Sun / Mon 8:30 am - 8:30 pm,

Tue / Sat 8:30 am - 12:00 am

LE MOULIN DE LA FLEURLast but not least is Le Moulin De La Fleur, a newcomer to

the French Bakery scene in Buenos Aires. This almond crois-

sant is the most croissant like. It’s a medium sized buttery

croissant with a nice hint of almond flavor and much lighter

than some of the other versions. They also offer delivery to a

limited area, if you prefer your breakfast in bed.

Talcahuano 888, 11 4811-7509, Mon / Fri 8am - 8pm limited

delivery to Recoleta, Tribunales, Retiro, Barrio Norte, delivery

hours Mon / Sat 8:30am-5pm

CROISSANTS TO MARKET!

Some of these bakeries also have stands at local markets.Look for them at Le Petit Mercado de Buenos Aires, aFrench themed market held in various locations throughoutthe year. Additionally you can find some at the Buenos

Aires Market which is held one weekend every month in achanging location.

www.facebook.com/pages/Le-Petit-Mercado- de-Buenos-Aires www.buenosairesmarket.com

So try one or try them all, they make a great breakfast,afternoon snack, or anytime treat to fill your sweet almondcravings. Do note that since these are bakeries daily suppliesare limited so it’s best to go earlier in the day to ensure youget your almond goodness. If you’re looking for fresh breadsor other French pastries they all carry an assortment of otherbaked goods as well, so you’re sure to find something youlove.

L’epi Boulangerie Almond Croissants

Malvón Almond Croissants

Le Moulin De La Fleur Almond Croissants



DESTINATION GUIDE / PUERTO MADRYN

This time in Spring is one ofthe best times to see some of

Argentina’s biggest and mostrevered residents: whales. PuertoMadryn is the preferred Spring andSummer destination for whalesin this part of the world, and it is

also home to a host of other localinhabitants including seals, sea

lions, many different birds and landanimals. Puerto Madryn is a wildlife-enthusiast’s haven and offersoutdoor activities for those lookingfor a bit more action.

THE RESIDENTS //////////////

Most people make it out to this part of Patagoniato see the local wildlife. Here are some of the mostfamous residents:

WHALES ////////////////////////////// From June till December Southern Right Whalesmove into the shores and can sometimes be seenstraight from the shore, but are best viewed fromnearby Peninsula Valdes or from boat trips. Onekayaker earlier this year had a very close encounterwith a whale when their kayak was lifted andtaken for a ride, type ‘whale kayak argentina’ into

Youtube to see this once-in-a-lifetime experience!You probably won’t be so lucky to get swept up by awhale during your time here, but during the seasonthis is one of the best whale spotting sites in theworld.

ORCAS //////////////////////////////// The darting black fins of Orcas can be seenswishing through the seas between September tillabout April. The best spot to view them is from thenorthern tip of Peninsula Valdes.

SEA LIONS ////////////////////////// All year round you can see the playful elephantseals near Puerto Madryn. Large swarms populatecertain spots like Punta Lomo and Punta Tomboand as summer time approaches you’ll even seethe new pups out to play. Perhaps one of the bestexperiences in Puerto Madryn is the chance toplay in the water with the sea lions where you cansnorkel or dive with them and potentially even giveone of them a sloppy kiss. Contact Lobos Larcen

Buceo (www.lobolarsen.com) to book your datewith these lively sea creatures any time of the year.

BIRDS ////////////////////////////////// Puerto Madryn and the surrounding areas arefilled with lots of seabirds including dolphin gulls,southern giant petrels, oystercatchers, steamerducks, cormorants and snowy sheathbills. Manybirds migrate on long voyages to get here, howeverall year round you’ll find life in the skies.

Whale

Orcas

Sea lion



PENÍNSULA VALDÉS ///////// One of the main attractions in the area, thispeninsula is the hot spot for whale watching whenduring October it is common to see whales as largeas 35 tons breach and spurt out water in a crowd-pleasing display from the shore line or on a quickboat excursion. There are beautiful walking routesaround the peninsula and kayaking trips are alsopopular, as well as the many boat trips that departfrom the main bay.If you want to lengthen your interaction with thenative residents you can stay over night at one of

the handful of accommodation options in PenínsulaValdés, mainly in Puerto Pirámides - the smallcenter of the area. Otherwise it is reachable by afull day tour from Puerto Madryn, which is about60kms away.

PENGUINS ////////////////////////// The famous flightless bird also resides in PuertoMadryn. The males all arrive in around August, withthe females soon following and a highlight is seeingthe new chicks hatch in November. Punta Tombois the hotspot for penguins in Puerto Madryn withalmost 500,000 penguins.

THE LOCATIONS /////////////

PUERTO MADRYN ////////////// The main city and hub of action in the area, PuertoMadryn is filled with hotels, bars and restaurants.If you are catching the bus you’ll most likely arrivehere, and if you are flying into Trelew there is aregular shuttle service here. While there is plentyto do during the evenings in Puerto Madryn, duringthe day most people use the city as a base toexplore the nearby nature hotspots and there aremany tourism agencies operating from the city. Astroll along the coastal line is pleasant enough, butbeyond spotting sea birds you’ll have to take anexcursion or car outside of Puerto Madryn to see

the most impressive of the local species.

Dolphin gulls

Steamer ducks

Whale watching

Puerto Pirámides

Penguins

25

Puerto Madryn City

Puerto Madryn



PUNTA LOMA ///////////////////// This is the spot to see sea lions with over 600 ofthem bathing on the shore line at low tide. Just17kms from Puerto Madryn, Punta Loma is an easyand quick excursion and local taxis will take youthere as well as organized tours.

TRELEW /////////////////////////////// One of the main transport hubs, Trelew city is - asyou might have already suspected from the name- a large Welsh settlement in Patagonia. EveryOctober there is a large Welsh poetry, dance and

song festival - Eisteddfod - and there are manyWelsh traditions still visible in the cuisine and teahouses of the city.While the outdoor activities are limited in Trelew, thecity is host to some excellent museums includingthe Paleontology Museum which has the largestdinosaur fossils in the world on display. As one ofthe main gateways to Patagonia, Trelew is the arrivalpoint for anyone coming by air. Puerto Madryn is67kms north of Trelew and accessible by bus or car.

PUNTO TOMBO ////////////////// Between September and March, Punto Tombo ishome to one of the largest penguin colonies inthe world. The Magellanic penguins come here tolay their eggs at the beginning of the season, andtowards Christmas time you’ll see all the newlyhatched baby penguins waddling around in a fluffydaze. This is a protected nature reserve, and otherwildlife is abundant including sea birds and landanimals.120kms south of Trelew, a visit to PuntoTombo can be included in a (rather long) day trip fromPuerto Madryn or more conveniently from Trelew.

GAIMAN ////////////////////////////// Just 17kms away from Trelew, this small countrytown is a very popular visit (day trip from Trelewor Puerto Madryn) for its traditional Welsh teahouses where you can tuck into a wide range ofcakes, scones and jams in an indulgent afternoontea. Some of the menus still have Welsh, althoughmost residents speak Spanish on a day to day basis.Gaiman is often incorporated in day visits to thearea from Puerto Madryn or Trelew.

Sea lion

Penguin

Sea lions

Sea lions

Eisteddfod 2013

Paleontology Museum



25

PUERTO RAWSON ///////////// If you cam to see dolphins on your trip to the part ofPatagonia, Puerto Rawson is the spot for you withsmall dolphins known as toninas play in the watersyear round. You can take a boat trip from here foran hour or two of tonina spotting, which are alsoknown as the ‘pandas of the sea’ for their distinctblack and white colouring. Puerto Rawson is 30kmseast of Trelew.

HOW TO GET THERE //////

Puerto Madryn is almost 1,330km fromBuenos Aires and can either be reachedby land, sea or air. By bus is the mostaffordable way to travel, and the journey

takes 18 hours so it is worth booking onto abig comfortable sleeper bus like Andesmar (www.andesmar.com) with fully recliningseats, movies and food service. Airlines likeAerolineas Argentinas (www.aerolineas.com.ar) fly into Trelew (2hrs) from whereyou can take one of the regular transfersto Puerto Madryn; and many cruise linersthat head south from Buenos Aires will firststop at Puerto Madryn.

Welsh Customs in Gaiman

Dolphin - Tonina

Amanda Barnes is a travel writer and self-confessed travel addict who has spent thelast half decade roaming Argentina and itsneighbouring countries in search of ice, sand,sun and good Syrah. You can read more of hertravel articles on www.amandabarnes.co.uk

amanda_tweeter



Our artist this edition is Florencia

Della Vedova. A plastic artist fromLa Plata, Florencia designed thisedition’s cover especially. AmandaBarnes interviews her a bit more tond out about life in La Plata and

the beauty of childhood.

How would you describe yourself to

someone who has never met you?

This has always been the hardest

question for me to answer! I

consider myself a lover of colours,

passionate about photographyand restless by nature. I like manydisciplines, and I have worked inmany of them, including painting,photography, engravings, printedart, cinema, and a special effectsmake up artist. I go along varyingthings according to the moment,my desires, my restlessness,opportunities, peacefulness, theplace, the feeling. They say that wemutate because we are water, but

people of stone never change.

Where were you born in Argentina

and what is the place like?

I was born in La Plata and at threeyears old I moved to Germanywhere I lived for three years andfrom then on there hasn’t beena year where I haven’t traveled tosome part of the world. I supposethat because of this I considermyself a citizen of the earth. Traveltaught me that at the end of it all,it is not the place that is important,

but the people that inhabit it.

Artist prole /// FLORENCIA DELLA VEDOVA

Interview by AMANDA BARNES

www.forenciadellavedova.com

[email protected]

You can visit Florencia’s

website or contact her

C o n l o s p a j a r o s v o l a n d o v o y -

2 0 1 1



31

Currently I live in La Plata... I don’tlike cities too much, it dazzles memore to be able to see the sunsetand a sky lled with stars. However,

I consider it a nice city with a veryinteresting artistic movement. Inthese last years it has beendeveloping a movement alternativeto the conventional spaces andthere are artists that shine.

Do you have any vivid memories

of your childhood?

Yes…. many! Trains, travels, thewarmth of sunshine, hugs,goodbyes, welcomes,grandparents, adoptedgrandparents, blues, springs, ducksin the park and a castle, campsites…

My grandparents, their house,the smell of my grandmother’spoached eggs and the avour of

the fruit salads of my grandfatherwhich he cut very very small. Iremember that I loved to go tosleep to imagine all the adventuresin which I saw myself involved.During the day I would usuallyplan where I was going to takemyself at night. Imagining, I hadfun imagining. A tonne of beautiful

memories come back to me withyour question!

When did you realise that you

wanted to be an artist?

I don’t think that it is somethingone chooses, simply the desire todo something makes the rest comenaturally. This is the beautifulcharacteristic of art. Sometimes Iask myself in what moment doessomeone stop being an artist.Picasso said that since he was achild he painted like Rafael butwhat took him a whole life to learnwas to draw like a child.

What inspires creativity in you?

The natural, the symbolic,colours and moments. Sometimesthe most simple thing awakensan idea for artwork. Photographyusually unravels itself, I look andsomething inside me provokes the

necessity to capture this mannerof feeling the reality that I saw. Itis quasi instinctive, although thereare exceptions like everything.

I like to look at the art works ofother artists and sometimes I alsoreturn to my own artworks. Onecan see in others a search forthe aesthetic and/or a shared oropposed concept, and be nourishedfrom it. I always say to my pupils

to observe - one can learn a lotanalysing other people’s workbecause in that analysis onedifferentiates between what onelikes and not from observation,

and establish, with the help ofothers, what makes us authentic. How would you describe your style?

Chromatic, oneiric, smooth,patient, serene. For me it is a placewhere I can shelter myself from thechaos of the city. For the spectatorit can be a place to reconnect withthe magic of nature and therediscovery of beauty, so distortedin recent times.

When you aren’t painting, what do

you like to do?

I like to travel a lot, even if it onlybe an afternoon in the countryside,I reconnect with many things that

make me happy. To climb on theroof to have a smoothie. To watchmovies, look at artists, read. To donothing is to do a lot too!

If you weren’t an artist here in

Argentina in 2014, what would you

be, when and where?

It would be fascinating to be aNational Geographic photographer,but it comes from being an artist I

suppose. Mmmmm, a bird, I wouldlike to be able to y, to then dive

into the water and to connect thethree worlds by touching the land.

29

Maia Heidel La Marea Florencia and her cat



Bolivar esquina Venezuela



Bavarian “funfair” Oktoberfest.

What started in 1810 in Munich,

Germany, as a city-wide wedding

reception for Crown Prince Ludwig

and his bride Therse has now

Outside of Carnival in

Brazil, few festivals around

the world evoke the same

images of mirth, culture and- most

importantly- beer, as does the

Jared Wilhelm is an American engineer and pilot,currently on scholarship to attend the UniversidadNacional de Cuyo in Mendoza. Passionate about

flying, traveling and wine, he tries to avoid morethan two of the three at the same time.

@jaredwilhelm

FOR 11 DAYS IN THECENTRAL SIERRASREGION OF ARGENTINAYOU CAN’T GO WRONGWITH EITHER ONE!

Closing Festival 2013 Fireworks blasting above Parque Cervecero.

31



become a worldwide event.

Luckily for those of us visiting or

living in Argentina, the best parts

of this tradition followed German

immigrants across the Atlantic and

each year there is an opportunity to

participate in the Argentine version

of this celebration of music, food,

and cerveza . Villa General Belgrano

is a village 87 km south the city of

Córdoba nestled in a lush green

valley at an altitude of 750m (2,500

ft), whose population of 6,000-some

Argentines of European and Ger-

man descent swells with tourists

for two weeks in early October.

This year will mark the 51st version

of the celebration, also known in

Argentina as the National Festival

of Beer. Officially running from

Friday, October 3rd to Sunday,

October 12th, every day the party

starts at 11 am and runs late into

the night. Centered around Parque

Cervecero , or Brew Park, you’ll find

stalls with all the traditional foods

and beer backed by a festive

soundtrack of central European

music.

The first weekend is a more

family-friendly affair, with parades,

dancing, a traditional keg-tapping

ceremony and musicalespectáculos (shows), culminating

in the election of the National Beer

Queen on Saturday evening. The

second weekend is more

recommended for the party-minded

crowd, so leave the kids behind as

you bust out the lederhosen (for

guys) and the traditional Bavarian

dirndl dresses (for girls). Special

activities include a-not-so-German

Argentine rock concert replete with

a laser light show, all accompanied

by copious amounts of German eer.

Entrance fees range from free to

$150 pesos per person depending

on the days you plan on attending,

so be sure to reference the price

list below.

Despite its quaint feel, Oktoberfest

is the vi llage’s keystone event and

the area offers more than 100

different lodging options between

hostels, hotels, bed-and-breakfasts,

and cabins. Rooms book up fast

though, and if you haven’t planned

your trip yet you may need to opt

to crash in Córdoba, Argentina’s

second largest city (after Buenos

Aires) and make the trip to the

festival via bus. The village’s tourism

office recommends the colectivos

or minibuses that depart from

Córdoba’s terminal every 45

minutes for the hour-and-a-half

journey ride to Villa General

Belgrano (prices vary).

However you get there, be prepared

to soak in one of the most unique

opportunities to enjoy and imbibe

in the international roots of the

people and diverse landscapes of

Argentina. True Germans might bea bit disappointed by the kitschy

nature of the village, lack of fluent

German speakers and the festival’s

commercialisation, but for the rest

of us looking for the an Argentine

twist on Oktoberfest in a Spanish-

speaking country 11,500 km away

- what’s not to like?

FIESTA NACIONALDE LA CERVEZA

Villa General Belgrano3 / 10th October 2014

Ticket info

General admission availablefor purchase same-day.$150 pesos (Oct 11, 12)$100 (Oct 3, 4, 5, 6, 10, 13)Free (Oct 6,7,9).

How to get there

From Córdoba bus terminal,

buy tickets to Villa GeneralBelgrano from one of thefollowing lines:- Sierras de Calamuchita - Buses Lep - Pájaro Blanco

For more information

Villa General Belgrano OfficialTourism Site (Spanish)

www.vgb.gov.ar/ oktoberfest/

National Beer Festival 2014(English)

www.welcomeargentina.com/villageneralbelgrano/ beer-festival.html

Revelers trying to get a taste of the rst keg tapped. Fireworks blasting above

Parque Cervecero.



PEÑÓN DEL ÁGUILAADVENTURE PARK

Located 36 km west of Villa Gral.

Belgrano in La Cumbrecita, this

theme park takes its name from

the Spanish translation of “Eagle’s

Crag.” Although not a true

opportunity to experience pristine

wilderness, the park has a variety of

activities ranging from simple hikes

past scenic waterfalls, zip line

courses that traverse mountain

rivers and even speeding through

the forest in four-wheel all-terrain

vehicles. This is a good option for

families as they have activities for

all ages.

www.penondelaguila.com.ar

VILLA CARLOS PAZ

Located 90 km northwest of Villa

General Belgrano is Villa Carlos Paz.

Thanks to its location only 20

minutes west of Córdoba it has

become a popular destination for

those looking for a country escape,

and a visit here would work well

tacked onto the beginning or end of

an Oktoberfest trip. Local purveyors

offer fly fishing tours, scenic drives,

canoeing, hiking and the opportunity

to visit some of Argentina’s inland

“beaches,” resorts built on and

around San Roque Lake.

www.welcomeargentina.com/villa-

carlospaz/index_i.html

CITY OF CÓRDOBARELIGIOUS CIRCUIT

If you’re feeling repentant after too

much Warsteiner, or just happen to

be staying in the city because you

couldn’t get lodging in Villa General

Belgrano, take a day to explore the

historic cathedrals, monasteries and

Jesuit complex of Argentina’s

second city. Both self-guided and

professionally led tours leave from

the typically-named central Plaza

San Martín, where tourist booths

have maps and information available.

If you want your beer-belly to thank

you, contact Servicio de Guías de

Turismo de Córdoba A.C on

Facebook and sign up for their

evening “Córdoba Illuminated”

historic walking tour.

www.guiasdecordoba.webnode.com

OTHER ATTRACTIONS IN CÓRDOBA

If you need a break from repeatedly lifting and emptying a litre-sized steins,

there are plenty of other cultural and natural activities available within and

nearby to the village to help you clear your liver and head.



THE ORIGINS OF THE

ARGENTINE TRADITION

Mate originated with the Guaranípeople, an indigenous group, whoused it for its supposed medicinalqualities. When Spaniards arrivedin South America, they began to

drink mate as well, and spread the

practice throughout the SouthernCone. Today, Argentina, Uruguay,and Paraguay are South America’smost passionate mate drinkers,followed by Brazil and Chile.Although native to South America,passionate expats are taking thehabit global.

THE ETIQUETTE OF MATE

DRINKING

At rst, drinking mate withArgentine friends can beintimidating, as there are manyunspoken rules that regulate thepractice. Don’t worry- we’ll make

sure you know the basics…

N o e l l e S m

i t h a r r i v e

d i n A r g e n

t i n a

e a r l i e r

t h i s y e a r a n

d h a s a

l r e a

d y

b e c o m e a

f u l l - b l o w n m a

t e a

d d i c t . A s

w e

l l a s e n j o y

i n g a p o

t o

f m a

t e w

i t h

f r i e n

d s s

h e

l i k e s

t o e x p

l o r e

t h e

A n

d e s

m o u n

t a i n s

a n

d i n d u

l g e

i n s o m e o

f t h e

b e a u

t i f u l w

i n e

b e

i n g p r o

d u c e

d h e r e .

AN ARGENTINE’S

BEST FRIENDWhether you are new to Argentina,or a regular visitor, you haveprobably found yourself drinking mate.If not, now is the time to start. Mate isone of the most iconic symbols ofArgentina, and for good reason.Argentines adore the beverage anddrink it on almost any, and every,occasion. Mate is the key ingredientfor a truly Argentine experience.

34





Vanessa Bell is a freelancer and founder of Creme de la Creme,a bespoke personalised shopping service, showing the exclusive

and underground BA, from fashion, vintage, art and antiques tointerior design and the best kept secret places to eat.

www.cremedelacremeba.comwww.facebook.com/cremedelacremeba

Instagram.com/cremedelacremeba

HOTTEST BA FASHION DESIGNERS

MAYDIMaydi is making waves with the launch of the second

collection of her covetable knitwear line Maydi. Having cut

her teeth in the industry working for 10 years in fashion

marketing in Paris, she returned to her native Argentina,

and feeling frustrated at the limited options available to

her in her field, decided to apply her exceptional taste and

discerning eye to conceiving a line of her own. The resultsare impressive, and have been snapped up by international

buyers. Hardly surprising as her emphasis is on meticulous

attention to detail and the finest raw materials, sourcing

premium local suppliers of wool and alpaca, the very

same who a few seasons ago provided wool for Stella

McCartney’s Patagonian inspired collection. Her pieces

can be bought by appointment directly from Maydi, or

alternatively from the stylish Panorama or Tupa stores.

www.maydiaz.com

Panorama (warehouse)Republica de la India 2905, Palermo Zoo

Tupa (stockist) Lafinur 3132, Buenos Aires, Palermo Zoo

(11) 2077-8563

Mon 11am-6pm | Tues - Sat 11am-8pm

MORA LASNIER

Mora’s jewellery is as drool-worthy as it comes. Sublimely

simple and effortlessly stylish, pieces that are irresistibly

crying out to be worn (on a recent visit to her showroom

I tried on the whole collection - no joke.) Having worked

in various disciplines from fashion styling to photography

Maydi

Mora Lasnier

Maydi





she has not followed the conventional route and this is

reflected in her collection, which is as fashion as it is art-

driven. She works with premium materials, producing her

artisan creations on a made to order basis, although she

has limited stock for sale.

www.facebook.com/moralasnier.joyeriahttp://moralasnier.tumblr.comVisits to her showroom by appointment |

[email protected]

LENA MARTORELLOThis creative partnership was handpicked to showcase their

designs in the Semillero category of the recent Buenos Ai-

res Fashion Week, which received favourable reviews. Both

uncompromising and pure in their approach and aesthetic,

the second collection offered pieces with a decidedly

Japanese influence, Kimono-esque garments brought up

to date fashioned from jean and with unfinished hems. The

constant manipulation of local identity juxtaposed with the

influence of global mass culture creates a label that seeks

to both break with and honour elements of local culture.

www.lenamartorello.comBy appointment | [email protected]

(11) 4048 1740

JOCHIOn the eve of launching their debut collection, Jochi has

the makings of something great. Unafraid to experiment

with a conceptual approach, their pieces are fresh andinnovative, from classic blazers with a twist to out and

out statement pieces, which artfully maintain an elegant

aesthetic while simultaneously exposing a lot of skin. Great

if you’re eager to show off your recently acquired terraza

tan, bad news if you’ve fallen prey to the Quilmes and

empanada diet.

By appointment |

www.facebook.com/pages/JOCHI/678436898917954

E-EDITIONA brand new boutique has just opened in the upscale

Recoleta area to mark the debut collection of Josephine’s

diffusion line, created by Eugenia Rebolini y Natalia Gian-

nangeli. The premise of the label is limited edition coveta-

ble pieces and if this first collection is anything to go by,

they’re succeeding. Ranging from more formal dresses

to casual and sportswear, the simplicity of their collection

throughout is the main draw. Where many mainstream

labels here are still flogging tassels, leopard skin and studs,

many of the new breed of young designers are finally reali-

sing that less really is more.

Libertad 1688, Recoletawww.facebook.com/pages/E-Edition/718227688268861

L e n a M a r t o r e l l o p h o t o s b y A g

u s t i n G i r b a l A z p a r r e n

Jochi

E-Edition



39

YOU ARE ORIGINALLY FROM PATAGONIA AREN'T YOU?WHEN AND WHY DID YOU COME TO BA?Yes, I was born and raised in Trelew, a city in

Chubut. I came to live and study in Buenos A ires backin 1990 and lived with my Polish grandmother in VillaOrtuzar. My sisters and I grew up with the idea ofleaving high school, coming to the big city to get aneducation and have a life of our own, independentand autonomous.

TELL ME ABOUT YOUR ANCESTRY...My paternal grandparents were from Ukrainewhereas my maternal ones from Poland. They allcame to Argentina seeking a land to live in peace inbetween wars.

WHAT IS THE BEST THING ABOUT LIVING IN BA?A s a P atagonian girl who lives in Buenos A ires, on adaily basis I am confronted with the dilemma posedby my friends and relatives of whether we shouldstay here or go back. My partner, who is from PuertoMadryn, and I have decided to stay because welike it here: the buzz of the city, the opportunities,cultural activities, projects, entertainment, friends,our relatives... and so much more.

ARE THERE ANY FRUSTRATIONS LIVING HERE?Any frustrations? Sure!! I am self-employed, I'vealways been my own boss, therefore for the workingsystem, I am kind of out of reach for certain things,and unfortunately so is my partner who is a musicianand sound technician. We do not qualify to take

out a bank loan to buy our own house nor can wesave any money to afford to buy one... We've beentogether for more than 20 years and still that dreamis waiting to come true.

YOU RUN YOUR OWN COMPANY, WHICH YOU COMBINEWITH MOTHERHOOD. MANY MOTHERS SEEM TO WORKIN THIS CITY AND BA SEEMS TO BE RECEPTIVE TOENTREPRENEURIAL SPIRIT. WHAT HAVE YOUR

EXPERIENCES BEEN?I am a mother of tw o: an 8 year old and 2 year old. It'snot easy stuff, I want to grow in my career but also tobe a present mother in my children's life... Fortunately mypartner supports me... we share all the household activities;but not only he helps me, I have a lady who helps us withthe household chores everyday and then some occasionalbaby sitters. Actually it's pretty tight logistics, very tiringand demanding, there's no room for sloth or laziness. Andunfortunately, everything boils down to the fact of havingenough money to afford the baby sitting, outsourcing, sothat I can undertake my projects...

TELL ME ABOUT THE BARRIO YOU LIVE IN.I've been living in P alermo for 17 years, I've w itnessedhow the barrio has changed all over these years: from agarage barrio to a trendy and fancy one. It's been kind ofannoying to see how beautiful houses have beendemolished to give way to apartment buildings and bars ordiscos. However, I like it because I walk everywhere... It isas if we live in small town.

ANY RECOMMENDATIONS FOR SOMEONE NEW TO THE CITY?Any recommendations: uff so many... Argentinean peopletend to be very friendly and curious, but be careful thereare con men everywhere, so be attentive! What I see isthat foreigners really enjoy our idiosyncrasy, we can be nicepeople, but there are some others that can really be a painin the neck...The other day a foreigner told that we are like

no other place on earth...a kind of Argentinean race!

H e l e n A p p l e b y

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w o r d p r e s s . c o m

Interview by

HELEN APPLEBY



sauces to pick between: from Argentinemild to kick-you-in-the-mouth picante!This place lls up late on the weekendswith a post-party crowd just desperate forthat taco x. It is easy to see why.

La Fabrica del Taco, Gorriti 5062,Palermo Soho. (11) 4832 0815. www.fabricadeltaco.com Tues-Sun Midday –2am (closed 6-7pm) $$

Welcome to Argentina: the land of pizza,pasta and parilla! There is so much more

to Buenos Aires’ food scene though andthis is a quick glance guide to some of thegastronomy gems you can discover in thecity. Don’t forget that Argentineans dine lateat night with most restaurants not openingmuch before 8pm and often still serving tillgone midnight. Lunch is usually noon to 3pm.

LA FABRICA DEL TACO

If you want a plate of steaming tacosquick and fast, the Fabrica del Taco is theplace to head for a casual night of decentMexican tacos and dirty margaritas. Brightlights and tempting wafts of steamingtacos will knock you over as you wanderpast this popular Palermo taco joint, andonce you take your rst bite you’ll seewhy it pulls in a crowd. Soft corn tacosare lled with juicy pulled pork or smoking

chicken and cheese, and there’s three hot

SARKIS

Serving food as if it were in Armenia,and un-translated menus to match, this isa great spot for those on a budget who

want to taste some proper Middle Easternfood. Busy, simple, and sometimes a bitrushed – this isn’t your spot for a fancydate but it will keep you happy with itskeppe, big portions and unpretentiousArmen-tinean avours.

Sarkis, Thames 1101 (between Jufré andLerma), Villa Crespo (11) 4772 4911. Opendaily Lunch & Dinner. $

DON JULIO

A classic parilla place in Buenos Aires, DonJulio is often on people’s ‘not to miss’ list

for visiting the city and with packed tablesalmost every night you can see why. Thistraditional restaurant serves perfectlycooked slabs of beef that will please anymeat lover like a pig in muck. The winetrained servers will also be able to help youpick out a top choice Malbec to go withyour steak. If you order one of the pricierbottles you’ll be asked to sign the bottlewith your reections on the meal to bedisplayed around the restaurant.

Don Julio, Guatemala 4691 (cornerGurruchaga), Palermo (11) 4831 9564.Open daily Lunch & Dinner. $$$

SIAMO NEL FORNO

Even though Argentina has a huge Italianinuence, most of the pizza here can bedisappointing with thick, spongy bases, aninch of plastic cheese and an inundation ofgrease. Siamo nel Forno however makespizza like you’d expect it in Naples: thincrispy base, with a tasty splash of tomatoand only a sprinkle of for formaggio.Cooked in a real wood oven you’ll be cryingmamma mia over your margherita. Don’tmiss trying the Nutella pizza for dessert.

Siamo nel Forno, Costa Rica 5886(between Ravignani and Carranza) Palermo

(11) 4775-0337. Dinner Tue – Sun. $$

Pesos per person for average meal (main+ starter/dessert, excluding drinks)

P R I C E

G U

I D E

0 / 75

75 / 150150 / 225225 / 300over 300

$

$ $$ $ $$ $ $ $

$ $ $ $ $

RESTAURANT GUIDE

FUKURO

If you are craving some decent noodles and great sticky buns, Fukuro is a new restauranthand delivered by a food angel in Buenos Aires. After US expat Vanessa moved herea couple years ago and realized there was nowhere she could get her beloved Ramen

noodles like at home, she and her Argentine-born partner Matias started up a noodle barof their own, and it is a fantastic success. Graba bar stool colourful grafti-covered nightspot, and you’ll be served rich, savory and thick Ramen noodle soup (bring a bib as you willbe slurping every last noodle in ‘Lady and the Tramp’-style fashion). Equally as appealing– and limelight stealing – are their moist and sticky, sweet and sour steamed pork buns,and the fresh and succulent gyozas. Pouring artisanal beer from the city and saki fromfurther aeld, Fukuro is excellent for a quick bite or the soon-to-open Summer garden willgive you reason to stay even longer. The menu is limited, but perfectly executed, and thatalone is a great excuse to order seconds.

Fukuro Noodle Bar, Costa Rica 5514, Palermo Hollywood. (11) 3290 0912www.fukuronoodlebar.com Tues-Sat from 8pm. $$



BUENOS AIRES VERDE

Had enough meat? Need to get back tothe green stuff? This is your place. A rawfood, vegan and vegetarian hangout youcan get your x of all things green andgood again. Their wheatgrass shots, rawcupcakes and seaweed cannolis havebuilt up quite a fan base. Even the wine isorganic, making this a sin free dining spot.

Buenos Aires Verde, Gorriti 5657 (betweenFitz Roy and Bonpland), Palermo (11) 47759594. Mon – Sat, 9am till late. $$

CAFÉ SAN JUAN

Chef Leandro Cristobal is a skaterand a tattoo acionado and his uniquepersonal style is reected in his simplebut adventurous dishes. With the menuscrawled on chalkboards and changing onan almost daily basis, this has become arm favourite of Portenos and tourists somuch so that a spin off sister restauranthas opened nearby on Chile 474 (La

Cantina de San Juan). Tapas and typical

Argentine dishes with a twist served in arelaxed setting in a retro-style diner.

Café San Juan, San Juan 450 (betweenBolivar and Defensa), San Telmo (11) 4300- 1112. Reservations recommended. OpenLunch & Dinner. Closed Mondays. $$$

MUSEO DEL JAMON

This really is a museum to the glory of jamón, with cured ham legs swingingfrom the rafters that have come fromhigh quality producers in Argentina andspecialized producers from the mecca of jamón - Spain. Imported foodie goods aretough to get your hands on in Argentina,but the Museo have brought in differentdelicious jamones as well as salami andchorizo , and even the odd bottle of Spanishvino ! It’s not just cured meats though - youcan feast on seafood, shellsh, homemadepastas and paella, and one of their housespecialties is suckling pig. The modernPuerto Madero location is perfect for aharbor side walk afterwards.

Museo del Jamon, Av. Alicia Moreau deJusto 2020 (near Cochabamba), PuertoMadero, (11) 4300-5418. Mon - Sun, lunch& dinner. $$$$

COCINA SUNAE

Christina Sunae has been in the kitchensince she was 14 learning from her Filipinofamily and brings her Asian inuences

to this well-established closed doorrestaurant. With four courses inspiredby the Philippines, Thailand, Indonesiaand Malaysia you’ll be treated to some ofChristina’s home comforts like Thai shrimpcurry, tangy Ube crepes lled, and greentea ice cream. The menu changes weeklybut there’s a trademark tickle of spice, andif you’ve been in BA too long you can takehome some of her homemade hot sauce tospice up your life!

Cocina Sunae, (secret location) Colegiales,(15) 4870 5506, www.cocinasunae.com$$$

BELLAGAMBA

If you want a traditional Argentine ‘bodegon’(tavern) Bellagamba is probably one of themost centrally located ones still sending outmilanesas and jugs of wine at lunch timethe same way it did since opening in 1900.Started by a couple Italian immigrants, themotive behind this bodegon is lling foodand a place to eat in a cosy atmosphere.Cheap, cheerful and authentic.

Bellagamba, Rivadavia 2183 (between Juninand Uriburu), Congreso (11) 49515833.Open daily 8 till mid afternoon. $$

41

THE TOP 50 RESTAURANTS IN LATIN AMERICA

The Restaurant Magazine recently revealed their picks of the Top 50 restaurants in LatinAmerica, and Buenos Aires is home to a whopping 11 of them! Tegui (www.tegui.com.ar) came in highest at number nine, followed by Aramburu (www.arambururesto.com.ar)at number fourteen, Tarquino (www.tarquinorestaurante.com.ar) at number sixteen, ElBaqueano (www.restoelbaqueano.com) at number eighteen, Chila (www.chilaweb.com.ar) at number twenty one, La Cabrera (www.parrillalacabrera.com.ar) at number twentytwo, Tomo 1 (www.tomo1.com.ar) at number twenty three, Oviedo www.oviedoresto.com.ar) at number twenty nine, Sucre (www.sucrerestaurant.com.ar) at number fortyseven, Elena (www.fourseasons.com/buenosaires) at number forty eight, and last but notleast Pura Tierra (www.puratierra.com.ar) at number fty.

While these restaurants should all be on your new hit list for BA’s dining scene, there werea couple special mentions that also came from the city: Osvaldo Gross won the prize forbest pastry chef in Latin America; and El Baqueano was named the best up and comingrestaurant for its use of indigenous meats such as llama and a native type of crocodile calledYacare.

To get food desire take a look at the full list online at www.theworlds50best.com

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El gin artesanal argentino

necesitaba una tonica

artesanal que le haga

compañia.

conocelos a los dos en la casa

de su creador tato giovannoni.

floreria atlantico - arroyo 8722013 drinks international best bar in latin america & caribbean





The nickname of a ‘city that doesn’t sleep’ doesn’t comefrom Buenos Aires’ ofce culture… but rather its addictive

nightlife scene. Any night of the week you can head out for afew cocktails, a local brew or rave into dawn at a nightclub.Live music and nightclubs start late (11pm for music, 3am fornightclubs), but with a new crop of happy hours throughoutthe city your night can start relatively early. There is anexhausting number of bars and nightlife spots, but here is aselection of different types of bars to get you started.

BAR & CAFÉ GUIDE

REY DE COPAS

An Alladin’s cave of Venetian puppets,copper-splashed walls and pillow covered

couches, Rey de Copas is a seductive spotto quaff a couple chic cocktails. There is atreasure trove bucket by the bar lled withice and beer, but you’ll be missing a trick ifyou don’t dig into their eclectic cocktail list.Sweet, spicy and fragrant you’ll easily nda drink on the list to please your palate,and if you get the nibbles they serve neattapas to sate your hunger. Inside is cosy andatmospheric, but the candlelit terrace is theplace to be on warm summer evenings. Rey de Copas, Gorriti 5176, Palermo Soho.(11) 268 5220. Tues – Sat evenings.

LATTENTE

Lattente has been training baristas inBuenos Aires for a couple years now and isone of the best sources of good beans andgreat coffee in the city. With a quick serviceof espresso, latte and drip-ltered coffee,you can get it how you like it and sit downfor a moment of respite at their newspaperand magazine covered coffee tables. Addinganother tempting treat to the mix, there isoften a man just outside selling properItalian cannoli. Life is dulce!

LATTEnTE, Thames 1891, Palermo. (11)4833 1676. Mon-Sun 9/10am – 8pm.

FULL CITY COFFEE HOUSE

If you are serious about your coffee andneed a real bean x, Full City CoffeeHouse is one of the better coffee joints intown. Whether you like it strong and black,with just a lágrima (literally just a drop) ofcoffee in a pot of frothy milk, or you wanta Cappuccino like you’d get back home,the well trained barristas know what theyare doing. Packed with coffee ends andfreelancers, there is good wi here and astack of magazines and newspapers as wellas a decent Colombian-style breakfast towhile away an hour or two. They also runprivate coffee classes.

Full City Coffee House, Thames 1535,Palermo Soho. (11) 4833 6774. Tues – Sun.

PAIN ET VIN

If you want to sit down to a decent glass, orbottle, of wine with a hunk of proper bread –this is your kind of joint. Specializing in twoof the greatest gifts in life – bread and wine– this sunny spot in Palermo is popular as abar, lunch spot (try the hearty sandwiches)and a wine shop. There’s a good little spotoutside in a patio if you want fresh air too.

Pain et Vin, Gorriti 5132, Palermo. (11)4832 5654. Tues – Sun 12 - 10pm (7pm onSundays)

ANTARES

If you are in search of real ale, thenAntares is one of the safest options with anationwide chain of micro breweries. Witha couple locations around the city, you canstop in for a honey beer or cream stout inSan Telmo, Las Canitas or in their agship inPalermo where the impressive 10ft tall kegshang over the bar giving it a trendy NewYork feel to it. As well as different pints, andeven a beer tasting option, Antares servehearty bar food all evening.

Antares: Armenia 1447, Palermo; Arevela2876, Las Canitas; Bolivar 491, San Telmo.Daily from 7pm till late.

LIVERPOOL

Although the thought of Beatlesparaphernalia might make you cringe, this

Brit pop themed bar actually hosts somepretty decent live bands. With a properstage equipped for musicians, most nightsyou get a band play and afterwards it turnsinto a nightclub.

Liverpool Bar, Arevalo 1376 (betweenCordoba and Alvarez Thomas), Palermo (11)5355 7632. Mon – Sat nights.

CAFÉ MARGOT

A real treasure, Café Margot has a historystretching back to 1904 and a step into thisbar/café feels like a step back into historywith dusty bottled lined walls and lots of

olde-worlde memorabilia. Beer is brewedhere each morning and their homebrew isserved throughout the week, as is decentbar food. The waiters will rave about their

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turkey – which is served in countlesssarnies here – and actually claim to haveinvented the turkey sandwich (just go alongwith it!)Unpretentious spot for a coffee andstep back into a different century.

Café Margot, Av. Boedo 857 (corner of SanIgnacio), Boedo, (11) 4957 0001. Daily 8amtill late.

LA CIGALE

One of the best music bars in the citycentre, La Cigale has a bit of je ne sais quoi.Apart from the trendy French theme, theyhit it right on the head with their live musicwhich ranges from electro nights to vintagespinning, as well as a space upstairs forbands. If you get there early, indulge in thedaily happy hour from 6 till 10pm.

La Cigale, 25 de Mayo 597 (cornerTucuman), Centre (11) 4893 2332, Mon – Frifrom 6pm, Sat from 9.30pm.

GIBRALTAR

With a name like Gibraltar, you’d assumethis is aimed at expats and you’d be right, butthis English-style pub is remarkably popularwith locals too. The bar menu is comfort-food pub grub including sh and chips,bangers and mash, and homemade curries.Best of all, they serve food all day from 12till 2am meaning you can soak up the extrapints at any hour while the cider, beer andwine keep owing till 4am each night. If youwant cocktails, look somewhere else, but ifyou want a proper pub in San Telmo – theGibraltar is it.

Gibraltar, Peru 895 (corner of EstadosUnidos), San Telmo. (11) 4361 5310. Daily,

midday till late.

FLORERIA ATLANTICO

Entering through an afterhours orist-cum-wine shop-cum-record store has to be oneof the more unique entrances for a bar, andthat’s the only way to get into this newbar and restaurant in Retiro. Owned bya top mixologist and a super sommelier,the drinks here are to die for of course,as are the tapas and food. Dedicated tothe immigrant tribes of Argentina, you’ll

nd cocktails twisted with Italian Aperol,Spanish sherry, French cognac and EnglishEarl Grey. A creative and cool spot for thosewho really know their booze.

Floreria Atlantico, Arroyo 872 (betweenSuipacha and Esmeralda), Retiro (11) 43136093. Mon – Sat, 10am – 3am

ALSINA

It is tting that BA’s best club is practicallyin a palace. With a capacity of up to 1500,Alsina is its own principality of party. The

main oor is lled with a throbbing mass

of clubbers will the upstairs balconies offera little bit of respite and a good peoplespotting platform looking over the crowd.Alsina attracts international names andhosts a party every night of the week. Alsina, Adolfo Alsina 940 (between Bernandode Irigoyen and Tacuari), Montserrat (11)4331 3231. Daily from midnight.

SKY BAR

The best known rooftop bar in the city, SkyBar is on the 13th oor of Hotel Pulitzer inthe city centre making it ideal for reachingsome cooler Summer air and enjoying aview over the night city lights. A popular‘after ofce’ spot and also ideal for downinga couple cocktails at sunset, although theDJ plays well into the night too.

Sky Bar, Hotel Pulitzer, Maipu 907 (cornerof Paraguay), Centre (11) 4316 0800, Dailyafter 5pm.

SR DUNCAN

A converted mansion with a penchant forswing and tinkling piano notes, Sr Duncan isa handsome live music venue where you’llget tango, jazz, swing and anything elsethat has continued to sound good over thelast few decades. Even the prices hark backto a time before.

La Casa del Sr Duncan, Av Rivadavia 3832(between Medrano and Salguero), Almargo,(11) 4958 3633. 8pm till late Tues – Sat. Checkout their facebook/SeniorDuncan for listings .

VERNE COCKTAIL CLUB

As the name suggests, this is a bar

dedicated to creative cocktails. Opened lastyear, this Palermo bar is already drawing ingood crowds who come for the neat twistson old classics. If you really have a hangoverwish for the morning, try their absinthtasting menu.

Verne Cocktail Club, Medrano 1475 (cornerof Costa Rica), Palermo (11) 4822 0980.Daily from 9pm till late.

CAFÉ TORTONI

One of the great classic cafes of BuenosAires, Café Tortoni has been the meetingpoint for many great minds during its 160

year history including the likes of Jorge LuisBorges, Federico Garcia Lorca and evenAlbert Einstein. With every square inch ofwall covered in photos and memorabilia,walking into Café Tortoni is like a step backin history. As well as serving the classiccoffee, orange juice and croissants bywaiters dressed in a shirt and tie, there is atango hall at the back where you can catchdaily shows.

Gran Café Tortoni, Av. de Mayo 829,Monserrat. (11) 4342 4328. Daily from8.30am till late.

BEBOP

Live music is often a bit hard to nd in Buenos Aires compared to other world capitals,but there’s a new San Telmo joint that keeps the beat moving ve nights a week. BeBopis a stylish basement jazz bar with live jazz, blues, soul and pop bands every night of theweek and twice on Fridays and Saturdays. An intimate, low light setting with personallampshades is a throw back to the jazz bars of the 1920s. The bar list has classic cocktailsand a short but sweet collection of wines and beers, although if you want to nish (orstart!) your evening with something more substantial, pop upstairs to Aldo’s where you’llnd hundreds of wines and excellent food.

BeBop, Moreno 364, San Telmo. (11) 4331 3409.www.bebopclub.com.ar Tues-Sat 8.30pm-late.

45



PLAYGROUND TIPSIf you are new to BA it can seem a pretty daunting experience with 3 million inhabitantsand a spread of over 200km2. Here are some tips to help you play safe in the playground

that is Buenos Aires -

Buses are cheap, regular and easy (once you know which one to get on). Be aware that busesaren’t cash friendly, you’ll either need exact change in coins (tricky for a $5-6 peso fair) orget an electronic reduced tariff card SUBE (order it online or see a list of points of sale atwww.sube.gob.ar ), which you can charge at most metro stations. You’ll nd a helpful bus routeplanner online at www.mapa.buenosaires.gob.ar Once you get on the bus you’ll quickly nd yourselfcritiquing and praising the bus drivers’ personalized décor and memorabilia at the front of thebus.

The metro system runs through some key points in the city from 5am till 10.30pm each day.Paying a cash fare here is easier with cashiers able to normally give you change, but a SUBEcard (see above) will help you if you are here for more than a couple days.

Buenos Aires is a great city to walk through and at foot pace you can really appreciate the personality of porteños and catch a glimpse into the homes and lives of many that youotherwise might not. Do however take care and don’t walk in poorly lit areas at night, or walkin areas that are infamous for petty crime (La Boca, Villa 31 (next to Retiro), Constitucion,Barracas to name a few). Always exercise caution with your belongings and avoid wearingashy jewelry or opening fat wallets in public.

There are two airports in Buenos Aires, and they are quite far from each other so get yourairport right to avoid missing a ight! Also take care with connections as many carriers willmake you change airports for ongoing ights so give yourself time to go from one to another.Aeroparque (mainly domestic ights) is the most central and only 10mins in a taxi to Palermo.Ezeiza (Ministro Pistarini) International Airport is the biggest and is about 45 mins away from

the city centre by car. It is about an hour and a half between them and the most economicway without much hassle is by booking a private bus or taxi from www.tiendaleon.com or www.minibusezeiza.com.ar There is a public bus to Ezeiza (number 8, from Av. Independencia, Perú,Av.Belgrano, Av. De Mayo, Av. Rivadavia) but it takes a couple hours to get there.

If you need a bigger form of transport that is wheelchair accessible, try contactingwww.qrvtransportes.com.ar to get some wheels under your wheels!

The blue dollar is no secret and exchanging dollars on the black market is easy enough withillegal traders swarming Florida street making it a piece of cake for even the most simple-minded tourist. Do however remember that it is illegal, and also that tourists sometimes get

targeted immediately after exchanging by observant thieves.

Unlike most of Latin America, emergency healthcare is free in Argentina. So if you nd yourselfin an emergency or need to see a doctor, try Hospital Argerich (Pi y Margall 750, La Boca) orHospital de Clinicas (Av. Cordoba 2351, Barrio Norte). If you prefer to go private (quicker, oftenbetter healthcare) then try Hospital Aleman (Pueyreddon 1640, Recoleta) and bring cash.



47







WHERE TO FIND PLAYGROUND BUENOS AIRES

Si quieres copias gratis de Playground Buenos Aires,

por favor contactar | [email protected]

For an up to date list with new locations check out our website

www.playgroundba.com

ALMAGROLas Violettas Rivadavia 3899BALVANERASabor a Tango Perón 2535BARRIO NORTEAnima Peña 2665BELGRANOSucre bar Sucre 676

BOEDOCafé Margot (Los Notables) Boedo 857CENTROAlvear Art Hotel Suipacha 1036Amerian Buenos Aires Park HotelReconquista 699Casacalma Hotel Suipacha 1015Celta Bar Sarmiento 1701Complejo Tango Avda Belgrano 2608Dante Boutique Hotel Cochabamba 514Design CE Hotel de DiseñoMarcelo T de Alvear 1695Design Suites Buenos AiresM. T de Alvear 1683Dolmen Hotel Suipacha 1079Down Town Matias Reconquista 701Floreria Atlantico Arroyo 872Gran Bar Danzon Libertad 1161Gran Cru Rodriguez Peña 1886Gran Hotel Hispano Avda de Mayo 861Hotel Boutique Bonito Buenos AiresChile 1507Jack the Ripper Libertad 1275La Fresque Hotel Boutique

Avda de Mayo 984Le Choix des Vins Posadas 1166Le Vitral Buenos Aires Ayacucho 277Mayflower Suites Paraná 720Museo de la Ciudad Defensa 219Play Juncal 1472Plaza San Martín Suites Suipacha 1092Recoleta Hostel-Hostel Int.Libertad 1216Reconquista Garden Esmeralda 675Rooney´s Hotel BoutiqueSarmiento 1775Serena Hotel Libertad 1617SF Suites Avda Santa Fe 1188Tanguero Boutique Hotel Suipacha 780LAS CAÑITASAntares Las Cañitas Arevalo 2876/8Tienda de Cafe Baez 400Van Koning bar Baez 325MICROCENTROBridge Language SchoolTucuman 633BsAs4U Travel agency Lavalle 900MONSERRATAldo´s Moreno 372

Bebop Club Moreno 364Café Tortoni Av. De Mayo 825Reino del Plata Hipolito Yrygoyen 647Two Hotel Buenos Aires Moreno 785PALERMO1555 Malabia House Hotel B&BMalabia 1555248 Finisterra Báez 2485411 Soho Hotel SpaThames 1565Alaire Terrace Bar Gurranchaga 1509Amasoho Hostel Darragueyra 2317Atempo Design Hotel Arévalo 1564Awwa Suites & Spa Lafinur 3370Ayres de Español Gurruchaga 1851Ba Sohotel J. Luis Boges 2205Back in BA Hostel El Salvador 5115Bangalore Humboldt 1416Bar Du March Nicaragua 5946Be Hollywood Hunboldt 1726Birkin Republica Arabe Siria 3061Blue Soho Hotel El Salvador 4735Bobo Hotel Guatemala 4882Boho Rooms Uriarte 1389Bolivia Gurruchaga 1581Bolivia Nicaragua 4908

Cabrera Garden Boutique Gest HouseCabrera 5855Divina Bolivia Costa Rica 4670Eco Pampa Hostel Guatemala 4778El Tejano Honduras 4416Fierro Hotel Boutique Soler 5862Francesco Restaurant Soler 5598Giramondo Hostel Bar Guemes 4802Godoy Cruz Suites Godoy Cruz 2459Grand Café Basavilbaso 1340Green Bamboo (Vietnamita)Costa Rica 5802Guido Blvd. Cerviño 3943Home Buenos Aires HotelHonduras 5860Hostel Suites Palermo Charcas 4752Hotel Boutique Purobaires

Av. Independencia 2400SAN TELMOAmerica del Sur Buenos Aires HostelChacabuco 718Antares Bolívar 491Arribo Buenos Aires Perú 291Bar Defensa Defensa y CochabambaBar del Filete Defensa 217

Bar EspressoAv. Belgrano 402. Esq. DefensaBar Seddon Defensa 695BE Hotel Buenos Ares Venezuela 649Bicicleta Naranja Pasaje Giuffra 308Bohemia Buenos Aires Hotel B.Perú 845Brasserie Petanque Defensa 596Buenos Aires VintageCafé La Poesía (Los Notables) Chile 502Cafe Rivas Estados Unidos 302Circus Hostel & Hotel Chacabuco 1020Coffee Town Bolivar 976 (Mercado San Telmo)Dazzler San Telmo Piedras 303El Banco Rojo Bolivar 914El Buzon Peru 608El Federal (Los Notables)Carlos Calvo 595El Querandi Peru 302Expanish - Spanish Language SchoolGral Juan Domingo 698Gibraltar Perú 895Graffitimundo Carlos Calvo 736Hostel Inn Buenos Aires

Humberto Primo 820Hostel Tango Argentina Chacabuco 747Hotel Babel Balcarce 946Hotel Bolívar Bolívar 886Hotel Patios de San TelmoChacabuco 748Il Sorpasso Humberto Primo 478Kenton Palace Buenos AiresDefensa 383La Casita de San TelmoCochabamba 286La Morada H. Yrigoyen 778La Panadería de Pablo Defensa 269La Poesía Chile 502La Puerta Rico Alsina 416Lumio Café Carlos Calvo 498MACBA Museo Arte Contemp.Avda. San Juan 328MAMBA Museo Arte ModernoAvda San Juan 350Mansion Dandi Royal Piedras 922Mariposita Carlos Calvo 948Moreno Hotel Moreno 376Nueva Liberia Estados Unidos 301

Ostinatto Hostel Chile 680Patios de San Telmo Chacabuco 752Perez H Defensa 435Piedras Suites Piedras 908Posada de la Luna B&B Perú 565Puerto Limon Chacabuco 1080Pulperia Defensa 752Ribera Sur Hotel Paseo Colón 1145Sagardi Suites Humberto Primo 319San Telmo Flats Piedras 990San Telmo Luxury Suites Chile 437Senor San Telmo Defensa 756, esquinaPasaje San LorenzoTelmho Hotel Boutique Defensa 1086TelmoTango Hostel SuitesChacabuco 679Tiana Buenos AiresHumberto Primo 629Urban Station San TelmoAvda. San Juan y ChacabucoWalrus Books Etados Unidos 617 Yauss! Estados Unidos 509Zorzal Mane Petit HotelHumberto Primo 775VILLA CRESPOMalvon Serrano 789

Querido B&B Juan Ramírez de Velazco, 934

El Frances cafe / restaurant Gorriti 5099Full City Coffee House Thames 1535Jam Suites Malabia 1442Magdalena’s Party BarThames 1795 (esq Costa Rica)Mark’s Deli & Coffee HouseEl Salvador 4701Post Street BarThames 1885

Road2ArgentinaPasaje Santa Rosa 5038Soho Point Malabia 1577The Factory (new Juice bar)El Salvador 4995PALERMO/VIEJOUrban Station El Salvador 4588Bar Botola Gurruchaga 1795Bortola Classic Gurruchaga 1806Cocu Malabia 1510Dogo Hostel José Antonio Cabrera 4716El Ultimo Beso Nicaragua 4880Helena Cafe Nicaragua 4816Shanghai Dragon Aráoz 1199PALERMO/CAÑITAS248 Finisterra Báez 248PUERTO MADEROAsia de Cuba Pierina Dealessi 750Ayres de PatagoniaAlicia Moreau de justo 1798Bar del PuentePierina Dealessi y GorrittiBlakke Juana Manso 1580Cabaña Las Lilas Alicia M. de Justo 516Cuccina D´Onore

Alicia Moreau de Justo 1768Cucina Donore Alicia M. de Justo 1768DF Mexican Olga Cossettini 1611El Bistro + Cava (Faena Hotel)Martha Salotti 445El Único Bar Juana Manso 1601Estilo Campo Alicia M. De Justo 1840Faena Hotel UniverseMartha Salotti 445Freddo Juana Manso 1570ICentral MarketP. Dealessi esq. M. GuemesItamae Sushi Olga Cosettini 1553La Cabaña Alicia M. De Justo 380La Parolacia Casa TuaAlicia M. de Justo 276La Parolacia del MareAlicia M. de Justo 1170Lupita Mexican BarOlga Cossettini 1091Museo del JamónAlicia Moreau de Justo 2020Osaka (Faena Arts Center)Juana Manso 1164Patio JaponésJuana Manso y E. Escurra

Persicco Heladeria Juana Manso 1100Rodizio Alicia M. De Justo 838Siga La Vaca Alicia M. De Justo 1714Simone Olga Cosettini esq. E. EscurraSushi Club Petrona Eyle 471Sushi Club Alicia Moreu de Justo 286Tres Quarts by RodizioPierina Dealessi 1130Winery Juana Manso y M. GuemesRECOLETAAlvear Palace Hotel Avda Alvear 1891Art Suites Azcuénaga 1465Art Suites & Gallery Peña 2268Ayres de Libertad Libertad 1283Ayres de Recoleta Hotel Uriburu 1756Casa Bar Rodríguez Pena 1150Casa Sur Art Hotel Av. Callao 1823Centro Cultural Junín 1930Galería Rubbers InternacionalAvda Alvear 1595Howard Jonhnson HB Peña 2049Ih International HousePacheco de Melo 2555LoiSuites Recoleta HotelVicente Lopez 1955

Mio Buenos Aires HotelAvda. Quintana 465PaniVicente López 2056Poetry Building Junin 1280Recoleta Cemetery AzcuénagaUlises Recoleta Suites Ayacucho 2016Unique Art ElleganceAvda. Pueyrredón 1940Urban Suites Junin 1727RETIROBasa Basavilbaso 1328Farinelli Arroyo 900Feir´s Park Hotel Esmeralda 1366Hotel Loi Suites Arenales Arenales 855Sofitel Buenos Aires Arroyo 841SAN CRISTOBALBar de Cao (Los Notables)

Niceto Vega 4788Ilum Hotel El Salvador 5726Jardín Escondido Gorriti 4746Krista Hotel Bomplant 1665L´Hotel PalermoThames 1562La Boussole Gascon 1346LattenteThames 1891Le Pain Quotidien Armenia 1641

Legado Mítico Buenos AiresGurruchaga 1848Libro del Pasaje Thames 1762Lo de Joaquin AlberdiJ. Luis Borges 1772M Palermo El Salvador 5783MalamboThames 2098Malvon II Lafinur 3275Maria Félix Guatemala 5200Mark´s Deli El Salvador 4701Mine Hotel Boutique Gorritti 4770Miravida Soho Wine BarDarragueyra 2050Moving BikeMuu Lecheria Armenia 1810Noa Noa Lofts (tbn Hotel Babel)Bonpland 1549Nuss Buenos Aires SohoEl Salvador 4916Olaya Humboldt 1550Olivetti Rep. Arabe de Siria Y CerviñoOums cafe & Deli Armenia 1595Own Palermo HollywoodJose Cabrera 5556

Pain & Vin Gorriti 5132Palermitano Hotel Uriarte 1648Palermo Place Nicaragua 5865Palermo Soho Hostel Nicaragua 4728Palermo Suites Apart & SuitesFray Justo S. Maria 2529Palermo Tower Charcas 5955Pepe Cantero (Main Store)Honduras 4845Pepe Cantero (Outlet) Girruchaga 721Pollock Hotel Boutique (lyns)Costa Rica 4754Prodeo Hotel Lounge Gorritti 5374Q´Arte Galleria Humbolt 1981Real Revolution Honduras 5143Rendez Vouz Hotel Bonpland 1484Rio Cafe Honduras 4772Solar Soler B&B Soler 5676The Glu Hotel Godoy Cruz 1733Torrecillas Soho Godoy Cruz 1655Tre Design Apartments Migueletes 1773Ultra Hotel & Bistro Gorriti 4929Urban Station Palermo SohoEl Salvador 4588

Urbano Parrilla Honduras 5499Vain Boutique HotelThames 2226Vitrum Hotel Gorriti 5641Voulez Bar Cerviño 3802Watt Market El Salvador 4622PALERMO/BOTÁNICOCoco Cabello 3794Guido’s Bar Republica de la India 2843Museo Evita Restaurante J.M. Gutierrez 3926The Pick Market Demaria 4527Tiendas Naturales Rep. arabe siria 3001PALERMO/CHICOBellini Boutique Hotel Cabello 3780Croque Madame Cafe (Museo de ArteDecorativo) Av Callao 1569Picnic Cervino 3596Squizi Pizza a la Piedra Cabello 3601Tea Connection Cervino 3550PALERMO/HOLLYWOODAdorado Nicaragua 5856Argentine Experience Fitz Roy 2110Bocca il Lupo Bonpland 1965Chipper Humbolt 1893Decata Honduras 6100

Guaresnei Nicaragua 5802La Alacena Gascon 1401La Pescaderita Humbolt 1905Magendie Honduras 5900More More Pastry ShopEl Salvador 5721Olivas Soler 5700Oui Oui Nicaragua 6068Pani Palermo HollywoodNicaragua 6044The Haig Humbolt 2060Voltaire Angel Carranza1946PALERMO/SOHOBicicleta Naranja Nicaragua 4825Burger Joint Borges 1766Crack Up’ Libros / Resto BarCosta Rica 4767





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Playground Buenos Aires, Ed. 4