Red de senderos de Fuerteventura (inglés)

GR® 131

Fuerteventura Trail Network


GR® 131

Production and CoordinationArqueofuer, estudios patrimoniales

TextMaría Castañeyra Ruiz und Noelia Sánchez Argüez

Photography and Digital Photography ProcessingAlicia Padrón AlbertoBird photography: Department of the Environment of the Island Council

of Fuerteventura - Unidad de Medio Ambiente del Cabildo de Fuerteventura (pages 15, 65, 71, 76 and 94)

Photography of the inside of the Ermita de Diego chapel: Department of Cultural Heritage of the Island Council of Fuerteventura - Unidad de Patrimonio Cultural del Cabildo de Fuerteventura (page 49)

CartographyMaps from the National Geographic Institute of Spain (Spanish abbreviation:

IGN): Rosa López Guerrero

Published byIsland Council of Fuerteventura - Cabildo de Fuerteventura

First edition: 2013

Design and LayoutGayriaStudio, S.L.

Legal deposit: GC.690-2014

PrintersImprenta Gran Tarajal

ATTENTION: The information provided in this guide of hiking trails may have been slightly altered; therefore you could find changes in the itineraries, the sign-posting and the maintenance of the same. On discovering any damage on the tracks or any mistake in the texts, please report them to us at the following email address:

[email protected]


GR® 131

Table of Contents

Prologue

IntroductionLocation

Origin, Formation and Topography

Climate

Flora and Fauna

Protected Natural Areas

MIDE (Spanish abbreviation: Method for information on excursions)

Recommendations for your stay in the heart of the countryside

GR® 131Stretch 1 | Isla de Lobos

Lime Kilns

Stretch 2 | Corralejo - La OlivaLichens

Stretch 3 | La Oliva - TefíaLa Casa Alta de Tindaya (Literally: High House of Tindaya)Miguel de Unamuno

Stretch 4 | Tefía - BetancuriaThe Philanthropic Hostel of Tefía

Stretch 5 | Betancuria - PájaraThe Pine Grove of Betancuria

7

810

10

12

13

18

22

26

283033

3638

40

4343

4547

4953

Stretch 6 | Pájara - La ParedFloraGeomorphology

Stretch 7 | La Pared - Risco del PasoThe Prisoners’ Route

Stretch 8 | Risco del Paso - Morro JableGeomorphologyFauna

Stretch 9 | Morro Jable - Punta de JandíaJandía Teasel

PR®PR®-FV 1 | Barranco de la Cañada de Melián - Esquinzo

Windmills

PR®-FV 9 | Tindaya - Vallebrón - TefíaSpurges

PR®-FV 15 y 15.1 | Tetir - TefíaPR®-FV 15 | Tetir - Casillas del Ángel - TefíaPR®-FV 15.1 | Tetir - Degollada de Facay - Tefía“Gavias” (Traditional Irrigation Systems)

PR®-FV 54 | Morro Jable - Pico de la ZarzaThe Canarian Egyptian vulture

PR®-FV 55 | Gran Valle - Cofete“Apañadas” (Gathering of Goat Tribes)The legend of the Villa ‘Winter’

PR®-FV 56 | El Puertito - Caleta de la Madera - El Puertito

Runways

SL®SL®-FV 2 | Calderón Hondo - Lajares

Ice plants

SL®-FV 27 | Vega de Río Palmas - Presa de las Peñitas

Presa de las Peñitas (Las Peñitas Reservoir)

545657

5861

626465

6669

7072

74

7679

80818385

8688

899293

94

97

98100102

104

107

SL®-FV 28 | Agua de Bueyes - Vega de Río PalmasCochineal

SL®-FV 29 | Antigua - BetancuriaThe Mafasca Light

SL®-FV 31 | Tiscamanita - Vega de Río PalmasWatermills

SL®-FV 53 | Cardón - El TanquitoIstmo de La Pared (La Pared Isthmus)

Glossary

Location maps

108111

112114

116118

119121

122

128

7

This new guide of the hiking trails on Fuerteventura is for those who truly value the environment and the natural re-sources the island has to offer. Each and every kilometre of this trail network enable hikers to discover the warmth of the land-scapes of Fuerteventura. Each route and each indication about itineraries are opportunities to boost the rural environment and spread the values of our natural and social history.

For the last few years, significant work has been carried out on the landscape in order to preserve the elements which characterise life in Fuerteventura‘s rural environment. We have made a step forward in the care and knowledge of natural spe-cies, in the spreading of environmental values, in keeping the environment clean and in fighting against erosion.

Following this trend of defending the island‘s characteris-tics, we have committed ourselves to promoting the declara-tion of Fuerteventura Biosphere Reserve and the proposal of the National Park of Zonas Áridas of Fuerteventura.

The knowledge of our natural environment through the trail network is the best way to guarantee progress in this approach.

Welcome to our Fuerteventura trails.

Mario Cabrera GonzálezPresident of the Island Council of

Fuerteventura

Natalia Évora SotoCounsellor of Presidency,

Environment and Transports of the Island Council of Fuerteventura

Prologue

Introduction

Ū Location

Ū Origin, Formation and Topography

Ū Climate

Ū Flora and Fauna

La Zarza peak, Jandía

10

The GR-131 is part of an international trail which crosses the island of Fuerteventura, from north to south, from Corralejo down to the Punta de Jandía, and including Lobos Island.

Throughout its approximate 255 kilometres which are divid-ed in different stretches i.e. great routes (GR), small routes (PR) and local trails (SL), this network displays to visitors a singular showcase of landscapes and culture.

While in many places of the world outdoor activities must be put on hold during the winter, the eternal spring that reigns in Fuerteventura makes it possible to practice any kind of sport and be in contact with nature all-year-round.

Both the signposting throughout the itinerary and the edi-tion of this topographic guide are there to encourage leisure and sports activities in a 100% natural environment.

LocationLocated in the east of the Canarian archipelago and only

100 kilometres away from the African coast, Fuerteventura is the most extensive island of its province and the second of the Canaries, just after Tenerife.

The GR-131 starts its course on Lobos Island, a small enclave northeast of Fuerteventura and only 2 kilometres from the coast.

Origin, Formation and TopographyAccording to several sources, Fuerteventura is the oldest

island of the whole archipelago. It is approximately 23 mil-lion years old and has experienced many volcanic eruptions throughout its geological history. It is therefore characterised by the variety of its shapes and materials. Some of these mate-rials appeared in the early stages of the formation of the island and are clearly visible in a massif in the centre of the island, the

Introduction

Introducción

Lobos Island

Betancuria massif

11

Macizo de Betancuria.

The current topography is representative of an advanced stage of maturity. The severe erosive processes have strongly

dismantled and eroded the lands of Fuerteventura and have turned it into an island with extensive low-lying plains showing

Introducción

View of the El Jable covered by Calima

12

very small local relief. Its maximum height is reached by Pico de la Zarza, a peak that is 807 metres high.

The island was formerly called Planaria, among other names, which shows it is an island characterised by vast plains.

ClimateFuerteventura is identified by its intense aridness which is

due both to its geographical location and its low relief surface. Its dryness is defined by the island’s low altitude. The trade winds cross the land leaving very limited amounts of rain. Only Jandía and Betancuria show differences in comparison with the rest of the island, because more clouds gather there given they are at the highest points of the island.

The aridness of Fuerteventura finds its origin in a frequent phenomenon which also takes place on the other islands but has more impact on the eastern islands: the Calima (hot dry wind). Because it is so close to the African coast, the dust gen-erated by sand storms of the Sahara reaches the island carried by the sirocco.

Together, these factors create a marvellous climate that hardly changes throughout the year and with an average tem-perature of 21ºC.

Introducción

Spurge (Euphorbia canariensis)

13

Flora and FaunaThe limited and irregular rainfall, the great amount of sun-

shine and the high temperatures determine the vegetal and animal life of the island.

FloraFuerteventura presents quite poor vegetation; there are no

forests. This is mainly due to the lack of rain and the intense grazing the island was subject to for centuries. Although plants are not abundant, Fuerteventura shelters many endemic spe-cies, some of which have disappeared from most of the planet.

The most frequent plant formation encountered is the thorn scrub which extends both on plains and hills. Gorse (launaea arborescens) is one of the most abundant species we can find. It is sometimes accompanied by European teatree (Lycium intrica-tum), the shrubby sea-blite (Suaeda vera) and the Mediterrane-an saltwort (Salsola vermiculata).

Verodes (Kleinia neriifolia) and spurges (Euphorbia spp.) pre-dominate in particular areas and are typical plants found in the Canaries. There is also an endemic species of teasel from Fuerte-ventura that can only be found on some specific areas of the south of the island: the Jandía teasel (Euphorbia handiensis).

On Fuerteventura, you will often see Canarian palm tree (Phoenix canar-iensis) and tamarisk (Tama-rix canariensis) groves. In the highlands of the island, isolated examples of ther-mophilic woods, wild olive trees (Olea cerasiformis) and Atlantic pistachios (Pistacia atlantica) can be found.

Succulent plants, such as the slenderleaf ice plant (Mesembryanthemum nod-iflorum) and the common ice plant (M. crystallinum) are well represented, colouring large areas red as the summer gets closer.

In sandy areas near the coast, the most representative spe-cies are the bean caper (Zygophyllum fontanesii), shrubs known in Spanish as “balancones” (Traganum moquinii) and the sea spurge (Euphorbia paralias). Inland, you will mostly see what on

Introducción

Salt marsh in Morro Jable

14

the island is commonly called the ‘small heart’ (Lotus lancerot-tensis) and the plant named ‘white salt’ by the locals (Polycar-paea nivea) in the sandy areas.

Fuerteventura has good salt marshes, areas which are reg-ularly flooded by the tide that have become a significant place for birds. In this habitat, together with other species, you will find a dense scrubland mainly composed of species that belong to the Suaeda and Salsola genera known in Spanish as “salados”

meaning ‘salties’ as they are confined to saline or alka-line soil habitats.

In the high areas of Jandía you can find endem-ic species such as the Canary Island daisy (Asteriscus seri-ceus), the Argyranthemum winterii, known in Spanish as the ‘Jandía daisy’, and the Echium handiense, a small-medium shrub known as “tajinaste de Jandía” in Spanish.

It is also important to highlight the presence of lichens which are wide-spread. They are very abun-dant in the karst or malpais regions where they form crusts on the rocks.

Last but not least, there are certain species which have been introduced into Fuerteventura’s environ-ment and have perfectly

adapted to its climate. Among them are the wild tobacco (Nico-tiana glauca), prickly pears (Opuntia spp.), American aloe (Agave americana) and henequens (A. fourcroydes).

FaunaInvertebrates are the best represented taxonomic group

on the island; a special interest arose as far as insects are con-cerned.

Among the vertebrates, birds are the most representative, given they have the widest range of species. Steppe birds such as the great bustard or Canarian houbara (Chlamydotis undu-

Introducción

Henequen and prickly pears

Canarian houbara

15

lata fuertaventurae) can be observed on the plains of Fuerteventura. In alluvial are-

as and ravines, you will find the Canary Island stonechat (Saxicola dacotiae), a small perching bird only to be encoun-tered on Fuerteventura. The Canarian

Egyptian vulture (Neophron percnop-terus majorensis), the only vulture of the Canary Islands, finds its main ref-uge in the mountains of the Fuerte-

ventura.

Amongst sea birds, the most common are the cory’s shearwater

(Calonectris diomedea) as a nesting bird and the little egret (Egretta garzeta) as a

migratory bird.

Reptiles are the second most significant animal group. Among them, you will see the

Introducción

16

Atlantic lizard (Gallotia atlantica), the East Canary gecko (Tarentola angustimentalis) with a significant number of the species, and the Chalcides simonyi, a rare species of skink which is more robust than the first two but much less common.

Amphibians are only represent-ed by two species of frogs that were introduced by humans: the Iberian water frog (Rana perezi) and the Mediterranean treefrog (Hyla me-ridionalis), which need damp areas to survive.

Finally, the mammals found on the island have mainly been intro-duced, deliberately or accidently by man, except for the Kuhl’s pipistrelle (Pipistrellus kuhlii) and the Canar-ian shrew (Crocidura canariensis). Among the domesticated animals, the most common are goats, sheep, dromedaries and donkeys. Non-do-mesticated animals are present all around the island; among them, the North African hedgehog (Atelerix algirus) and the Barbary ground squirrel (Atlantoxerus getulus) are species that have recently been in-troduced from Africa.

Introducción

Majorero donkey 17


Malpaís de la Arena(La Oliva)

Natural Park

Rural Park

Natural Monument

20

According to the Canarian Network of Natural Areas, 47,695 hectares of the island of Fuerteventura are covered by 13 Pro-tected Natural Areas:

• Lobos Island Natural Park• Corralejo Natural Park• Jandía Natural Park

• Natural Monument of Malpaís de La Arena • Natural Monument of Montaña Tindaya

• Betancuria Rural Park


Espacios Naturales Protegidos

Site of Scientific Interest

Protected Landscape

21

Moreover, the whole territory of Fuerteventura was declared Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO on May 26, 2009.

• Protected Landscape of Malpaís Grande• Protected Landscape of Vallebrón

• Site of Special Scientific Interest of Playa del Matorral

Espacios Naturales Protegidos

• Natural Monument of Caldera de Gairía • Natural Monument of Cuchillos de Vigán • Natural Monument of Montaña Cardón • Natural Monument of Ajuí

MIDE (Spanish abbreviation: method for information on excursions)

Ū Assessment of the difficulty

Ū Basic information

Ū Recommendations for you stay in the countryside

Trail, Stretch 9

Duration Expected

Highest Point

Lowest Point

Approx. Total Distance

Type of Route

8 hrs.

293 m

13 m

25,9 km

Severity of the Natural Environment

Orientation of the Itinerary

Difficulty of the Hike

Effort Required

1

2

1

3

Straight toa Destination

Profile

Stretch 2

24

MIDE (Spanish abbreviation: method for information on excursions)

The MIDE is a communication system among hikers. It is a grading scale that includes the technical and physical difficul-ties of the routes, and classifies them for better information. Its goal is to assess the difficulty of excursions so that each hiker can choose what route s/he wishes to go on.

The MIDE comprises two blocks of information:

• Assessment (from 1 to 5 points, 1 being the least and 5 the most) of four aspects of difficulty that are interpreted in the following table.

• Basic information on each route.

Example of MIDE

MIDE

1 not without risks2 one risk factor3 several risk factors4 quite a few risk factors5 many risk factors

12 route or signposting that indicate the continuity

well-defined paths and crossroads

requires a precise identification of geographical featuresand cardinal points

3

4 requires navigation away from the main track5 navigation interrupted by obstacles to skirt

smooth surface12 horse trail3 stepped trails or irregular grounds4 use of hands or jumping required to maintain balance5 use of hands required to keep going

1 up to 1 hr of effective walking2 more than 1 hr and up to 3 hrs (2+1) of effective walking3 more than 3 hrs and up to 6 hrs (3+2+1) of effective

walking4 more than 6 hrs and up to 10 hrs (4+3+2+1) of effective

walking5 more than 10 hrs of effective walking

E�ortE�ort Required

Di�culty of the Hike

Hike

EnvironmentSeverity of the Natural Environment

ItineraryOrientation of the Itinerary

25

The MIDE is recommended by the Spanish Federation of Mountain and Climbing Sports (Spanish abbreviation: FEDME)

For more information, please visit www.euromide.info

MIDE

26

Recommendations for your stay in the countryside

• Do not leave or bury garbage.

• Do not light fires, except in authorised areas.

• Respect the trails and avoid shortcuts because they en-courage erosion and can break the original marking of the path.

• Do not forget that motorised vehicles may circulate on some of the routes.

• Close gates, fences, barriers, etc. that you open to pre-vent livestock or wild animals from entering or escaping.

• Do not camp in the open unless respecting the assigned areas to do so.

• Do not pick flowers or branches in your surroundings as you could be taking a specimen of endangered plant species.

• Do not make too much noise not to disturb animals.

• Plan your excursion well ahead by doing the actual time calculations.

• Always take enough water and ready-to-eat food sup-plies with you if you are going on a long hike.

• Do not forget simple things such as: a cap, sunglasses and sun screen.

• Take a cell phone with you and remember the general emergency number is 112.

MIDE

Signposting on the GR

Signposting on the PR

Signposting on the SL

Change of Direction Wrong DirectionCorrect Direction



27

MIDE

GR® 131

Ū Stretch 1 | Isla de Lobos

Ū Stretch 2 | Corralejo - La Oliva

Ū Stretch 3 | La Oliva - Tefía

Ū Stretch 4 | Tefía - Betancuria

Ū Stretch 5 | Betancuria - Pájara

Ū Stretch 6 | Pájara - La Pared

Ū Stretch 7 | La Pared - Risco del Paso

Ū Stretch 8 | Risco del Paso - Morro Jable

Ū Stretch 9 | Morro Jable - Punta de Jandía

Las Peñitas reservoir, Vega de Río Palmas

Duration Expected

Highest Point

Lowest Point


Type of Route

1 hr. 30 min.

23 m

8 m

3,5 km




Effort Required

1

1

1

1


Profile

Stretch 1

La Calera beach

GR® 131

30

Stretch 1

Isla de Lobos

Map 2

Stretch 1 | Isla de Lobos

Reservoir

GR® 131

31

Lobos Island, declared a Natural Park, is located in the Bo-caina strait which separates the islands of Fuerteventura and Lanzarote.

The first stretch of the GR-131 starts from that islet, so you can already imagine the singularity of this beautiful enclave.

To access this atypical stretch, you will have to take a boat from the port of Corralejo. During this journey, you will enjoy an agreeable trip through the strait known as El Río, then dis-embark at El Muelle, a wharf which allows its visitors to come and go; this is where the first stretch of the GR-131 begins. From here, there are two paths; you will take the one to the left as the one to the right leads to the small houses near the harbour known as Casas del Puertito and they are beyond our GR.

You will then follow the trail and cross karst or malpais which presents very little vegetation until you reach the Playa de Calera, a beach where you will be fascinated by the colours of the sea. The trail then leaves on its left the Caldera de la Mon-taña, a 127-metre-high volcanic cone, which you will be able to ascend by the different tracks you will find along the way. The striking green of the balsam spurge (Euphorbia balsamifera) will draw your attention. It is present on both sides of the trail and


Boat Timetable

The daily frequency of trips varies from high season to low season.

Summer timetable(From July 15, to September 30)

Corralejo Lobos Island10:00 | 11:00* | 12:00 | 13:00 | 15:30 | 16:30 | 17:15*

Lobos Island Corralejo 10:15 | 11:15* | 12:15 | 13:45 | 16:00 | 17:00 | 18:00*

Winter timetable(From October 1, to July 14)

Corralejo Lobos Island10:00 | 12:00 | 13:00 | 15:30 | 16:30*

Lobos Island Corralejo10:15 | 12:15 | 13:45 | 16:00 | 17:00*

The times marked with an asterisk (*) must be con�rmed at the ticket o�ce or on the boat.

Martiño lighthouse

GR® 131

32


GR® 131

33


throughout the whole itinerary. You will finally walk towards the small cove known as Caleta de la Madera, which you will skirt to end up at the foot of the Martiño lighthouse.

We can offer you an alternative return route: It leaves from the foot of the Martiño lighthouse and also leads to El Muelle. You will clearly distinguish it when arriving at a crossroads at the end of this stretch. This trail will take you to the Lagunitas salt marsh, where you cannot miss the houseleek Limonium ovalifolium ssp. canariense. This plant is a Canarian endemism which is very rare as it seems to be found only on Lobos Island.

In addition, you will find different reservoirs and lime kilns along the way. These constructions were used by the locals to best exploit their limited resources.

Lime kilnsLime has been produced on Fuerteventura from the 16th

century, even though most of the lime kilns you can witness nowadays were built at the end of the 19th century, when the activity was at its peak.

The production of lime became really significant on the island which was the first to commercialise it, on both Fuer-teventura and the other islands of the archipelago. This was partly due to the fact that this activity does not rely on rainfall and therefore did not suffer from the crisis that draughts cau-sed to other financial activities of the island.

Lime was obtained from limestone which was heated to between 900ºC and 1000ºC, and broke down to form calcium oxide, also called quicklime. In order to reach such high tem-peratures, the locals used kilns that are still preserved in many areas of the island.

On Fuerteventura, there are two clearly differentiated types of kilns: industrial kilns, fuelled by coal and domestic wood-burning kilns. The size depends on the type of kiln. However, in both cases, they are long truncated cone shaped and have a door or a side opening on the bottom part.

Industrial Limekilns

This type of limekiln was mainly used for exportation of lime, as the combustion could last longer and the production was greater than that of domestic limekilns. These kilns were loaded with coal from the top using stairs or ramps. Using coal meant that production could be increased. However, this same mineral also sometimes condemned the production, as it is an

GR® 131

34

element that cannot be found on the island; therefore when there was no supply, the producers were forced to use domes-tic kilns.

Domestic Limekilns

The making process was totally different from industrial limekilns and the production smaller, given it used dry gorse (Launaea arborescens), a thorny shrub widely spread on the island.


Industrial limekiln

GR® 131

35

Their outside appearance is similar to industrial kilns, but the most obvious difference is that domestic kilns do not have a door but a side opening, approximately one-metre long, that reaches from the floor to its maximum height. Pressed gorse and limestone were loaded through that opening.

Nowadays, the lime cottage industry has almost disappea-red and the remains of the kilns are a memory of an activity that was deeply rooted and a tradition that lies in the heart of the people of Fuerteventura.


Duration Expected

Highest Point

Lowest Point


Type of Route

8 hrs.

293 m

13 m

25,9 km




Effort Required

1

2

1

3


Profile

Stretch 2

GR® 131

36

Stretch 2

Corralejo - La Oliva

Map 3

The second stretch of the GR-131 starts in the town centre of Corralejo. You will leave from Plaza Patricio Calero onto Calle La Milagrosa. You will then turn right to ascend Calle Lepanto until you reach Avenida Juan Carlos I. Then, you will turn to-wards the left along the avenue until you get to a roundabout with a sculpture of a boat. Different sports are represented on the sail of this boat. Your path continues on the first exit and a few metres further on you will take the second street on your right and continue to a municipal water reservoir. If you turn round to take a look at your surroundings, you will see how close the island of Lanzarote looks and you will notice Lobos Island, an islet whose beauty enhances the immensity of the At-lantic Ocean. You will walk through the karst or malpais, which

Stretch 2 | Corralejo - La Oliva

Path across the karst or malpais

Casa del Inglés (literally: the Englishman’s House)

GR® 131

37

is the remaining evidence of eruptions of the Bayuyo volca-noes about 185,000 years ago, until you reach the foot of the Rebanada caldera, where your route coincides with the SL-FV 2 Lajares-Calderón Hondo. You will find the path around the Re-banada caldera smooth as it leads you, through Calle Juanita, to the village of Lajares. At the intersection of Los Cascajos and Majanicho streets, your path will once more coincide with the SL-FV 2 and lead to the football field of Lajares, where the SL-FV 2 ends and your way goes on.

Cross the secondary road to enter Calle Los Quemados, and follow that street to the end, then turn left. Once you have passed the last houses, you will be surrounded by volcanic scenery. Go past the Tejate slopes towards the natural monu-ment Malpaís de la Arena, which is almost completely covered with lichens. Then go across the karst or malpais to enter the town centre of La Oliva. To reach the central part of the town, go through Calle Las Navajas until you reach a crossroads. On your right, you will see the Casa del Inglés (literally the Englishman’s


LichensLichens were, for centuries, one of the main sources of we-

alth of the island.

The orchil lichen (Roccela spp.) was particularly valued for the natural dark brown-coloured dye obtained from it.

It is composed of filaments that come out of a basis firmly stuck to the rock on which the plant grows and forms bundles of somewhat tangled threads.

From the conquest to the beginning of the 20th century, it was exported to European markets to make na-

tural purple dyes which were used for the tex-tile industry. It even became one of the most

significant exportations of materials in the history of Fuerteventura.

La Arena karst

GR® 131

38

house), a fine example of an 18th century house owned by the island’s rural bourgeoisie. To finish this stretch, turn towards the right to catch the secondary road FV-10 that will lead you to Plaza de la Iglesia de La Oliva.


Orchil lichen

GR® 131

39


Duration Expected

Highest Point

Lowest Point


Type of Route

6 hrs. 30 min.

242 m

144 m

16,85 km




Effort Required

1

2

2

2


Profile

Stretch 3

Quemada mountain

GR® 131

40

Stretch 3

La Oliva - Tefía

Map 4

Stretch 3 | La Oliva - Tefía

Tindaya and henequens

GR® 131

41

This stretch starts in La Oliva, or more precisely in Plaza de Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria. You will head towards Calle Orilla and turn to the right onto Calle La Nobleza. Follow this street until you reach an intersection where you will find a petrol station. Once you have crossed the secondary road, go towards the first street on your right. At the end of this street you will see many henequen plantations (Agave fourcroydes). Once there, go left and you will gradually leave the urban area of La Oliva behind and follow an earthern track which crosses an unused agricultural area. Then follow the course of the ra-


El Risco ravine

GR® 131

42

vine of Montaña La Oliva to approach the Montaña Sagrada de Tindaya. This holy mountain seems to appear out of nowhere in the middle of the plain; it stands out because of its particu-lar shape, sculpted by time, and its unusual colour. Skirt round it to the west and there is a possibility of reaching its summit by an ascending trail. However, a special permit from the Is-land Council of Fuerteventura is required to do so. This section goes on to the village of Tindaya. In order to access the village, go through Calle Virgen de La Caridad; it will lead you to the Ermita de Tindaya. This chapel is the starting point of the PR-FV 9 Tindaya-Vallebrón-Tefía. From here, the route crosses the settlement, and will take you to the Casa Alta (see below). The route then goes south on an earthern track which will take you towards the Montaña Quemada. You will see the white statue of Miguel Unamuno on the side of the mountain. The trail contin-ues leaving the area of El Santo Lirio on the left to reach the Bar-ranco del Risco where you will cross the secondary road FV-207. You will walk eastwards for about a kilometre and then turn right to reach the Casa del Cordobés (literally: the Cordovan House). This house marks the meeting point between Stretch 3 and the PR-FV 9. Both routes head down south, between the Tablero de la Avutarda and the Rincón de la Hija, down to Tefía. You will enter this village on reaching the crossroads where you will turn left. Next, take the second street on your left and you will arrive at the Ermita de San Agustín. This stretch ends on your arrival at this chapel.


La Casa Alta de Tindaya (the High House of Tindaya)

This house owes its name to that fact that it was the first two-storey house in Tindaya.

The legend tells us that a man from Tindaya wanted to build a house which would be different from the others, which would stand out and be seen from far away by travellers. With a lot of effort, sacrifice and perseverance, he managed to build the highest house of Tindaya. Once his work was finished, he was so proud of it, he climbed a mountain opposite the villa-ge (we suppose it was La Muda mountain) to behold his mas-ter-piece. However, his joy did not last long, as the inhabitants of Tindaya, who were worried because he had not got back by nightfall, set out to look for him, only to find him dead. Thus, according to oral tradition, the Casa Alta is bewitched.

Miguel de Unamuno Miguel de Unamuno was a Spanish writer; he is considered

by many as one of the most outstanding Spanish thinkers of our time. He was born in Bilbao in 1864 and died in Salamanca in 1936. He belonged to the 98 Generation, which included: Juan Ramón Jiménez, José Martínez Ruiz, better known by his pseudonym “Azorín”, Ramón del Valle Inclán, Leopoldo Alas known as “Clarín” (the clarion), Antonio and Manuel Machado.

Although he was named chancellor of the University of Sa-lamanca, he was obliged to resign from his academic position in 1914 due to his many attacks against the monarchy of Alfon-so XIII. Ten years later, his confrontation with the dictatorship of

Casa Alta (literally: the high house) in renovation

GR® 131

43


Miguel Primo de Rivera was the reason for his exile to Fuerte-ventura, where he stayed for four months, from March to July. In this short period of time, the Basque writer and thinker dis-covered the beauty of the place and its people. He even wro-te that if he could not be buried in his homeland, his remains should lie in Montaña Quemada, where a monument was rai-sed to honour his memory. From this experience, he wrote a collection of sonnets De Fuerteventura a París, published in Paris in 1925.

He later moved to France, where he lived in voluntary exile until 1930, the year Primo de Rivera’s regime collapsed; he then went back to Salamanca to return to his duties as chancellor and did not leave his position until his death.

GR® 131

44


Duration Expected

Highest Point

Lowest Point


Type of Route

6 hrs. 30 min.

606 m

149 m

17,15 km




Effort Required

2

2

2

2


Profile

Stretch 4

Ecomuseo de La Alcogida

GR® 131

45

Stretch 4

Tefía - Betancuria

Map 5

Stretch 4 | Tefía - Betancuria

Guise and Ayose

GR® 131

46

Stretch 4 begins at the cultural cen-tre of Tefía. You will walk for about a kilo-metre until you reach the Ecomuseo de La Alcogida. In this eco-museum you can learn about the old habits and customs of the island. From here, go north-east until you get to a windmill whose distinc-tion is to have six blades, whilst most of the windmills of Fuerteventura only have four. Keep walking in the same direction for 250 metres and turn left to cross the secondary road FV-22. 1. You will then go along a large plain until reaching Mon-taña Bermeja. The reddish colour of this mountain stands out among the differ-ent reddish tones that characterize the island. Its stone has traditionally been used for the construction of different kinds of buildings, as you will witness in several houses in Tefía. The path follows south-eastwards until you reach the vil-lage of Los Llanos de la Concepción. Go through the village following the mile-stones until you reach the next village: Valle de Santa Inés. You will get there via an asphalted track you must follow for about 1.5 kilometres to then take an earthern track on the left. Once you have walked past the last houses of Valle de Santa Inés,

you will enter an important agricultural area and you will climb up to a scenic viewpoint. Look-

ing down, you will see the


The Philanthropic Hostel of TefíaThe philanthropic hostel of Tefía, located in the middle of

a plain close to the village of Tefía, looks inhospitable at first glance but hides a secret history that captivates anyone who knows it.

The first airport of Fuerteventura was built on this plain and the first plane landed here in 1942. It was owned by the Span-ish Air Force and carried a company of aviation soldiers who were temporarily accommodated in a wooden barrack. Ten years after its first flight, the airport of Tefía was closed due to bad weather conditions (strong gusts of wind) and was trans-ferred to Los Estancos, a village near the capital.

The airport facilities became the property of the Ministry of Justice that used the premises to establish a prison farm, known as the “Colony of the Idle and Miscreants”. Sadly, this precinct not only received recidivists and rebels, but also a hundred homosexuals, their only crime being the recognition of their sexual orientation. They came from all the Canary Is-lands and were confined from 1954 to 1966.

At the beginning of 1972, soldiers used the place for military purposes. During the “Maxorata-72” manoeuvre, the Parachute

Canary Island daisy

GR® 131

47

sculptures of two „majos“. The two abo-rigines Guise and Ayose witnessed how nature inevitably but patiently eroded the relief of Fuerteventura, giving the island its rounded hills which highlights the oldest materials of the Canarian ar-chipelago.

You will then cross the secondary road FV-30 to start your descent between bushes of what in Spanish is known as ‘wild’ spurges (Euphorbia regis-jubae), acacias (Acacia spp.) and some Canary Island daisies (Asteriscus sericeus) until you reach what was the first Franciscan convent of the Canary Islands. Contin-ue along Calle Presidente Hormiga for 300 metres to then turn right and, after a bend, you will arrive at a crossroads where you will go straight on to reach the church square which is the final des-tination of this stretch: Plaza de la Iglesia de Santa María de Betancuria.


GR® 131

48

Brigade landed on the plain of Tefía and the intense strength of the wind that blows on the island dragged the soldiers causing 13 deaths. Because of this unfortunate event, a monument was built in the area in honour of the 13 parachutists, together with a headstone with the names of the deceased.

The year after, the Island Council acquired the facilities to create an experimental farm.

Nowadays, it has become a hostel, where many activities are carried out. It also embraces the facilities of Fuerteventu-ra’s Astronomical Society Observatory, which stands out for its spherical-shaped architecture.

All in all, you will discover that this is a place that has under-gone many changes throughout history and that has adapted to new times.


Duration Expected

Highest Point

Lowest Point


Type of Route

7 hrs. 30 min.

665 m

205 m

16,4 km




Effort Required

2

1

3

2


Profile

Stretch 5

GR® 131

49

Stretch 5

Betancuria - Pájara

Map 6

You will begin Stretch 5 of the GR-131 in Betancuria, the for-mer seigniorial capital of Fuerteventura. This stretch shares its route with the SL-FV 29 Antigua-Degollada del Marrubio-Betan-curia for 1.7 kilometres.

You will leave from Plaza de la Iglesia de Santa María de Betancuria and walk to the Casa de los Beneficiados. From this house, you will descend 150 metres on a paved path to end up on the secondary road FV-30. Cross that road and, a few steps away, you will encounter the double-waterwheel extracting system of Pozo de los Peña, which has recently been restored.

You will continue through a traditional cultivation area of the island where on both sides of the trail you will see „gavias“, traditional irrigation systems, typical of Fuerteventura and

Stretch 5 | Betancuria - Pájara

Los Padrones house

GR® 131

50

Lanzarote. You will then ascend continuously, guided by rows of agaves (Agave americana), to the Degollada del Marrubio (gorge commonly known as Degollada de la Villa). On reaching this gorge, the SL-FV 29 pulls away from our route to go towards Antigua.

Stretch 5 then goes towards the south and after a 600-metre walk, you must turn right to enter a newly planted pine grove that contrasts with the rest of the island where trees are com-paratively scarce. You will see on your way that there are mainly pine trees (Pinus canariensis, P. halepensis, P. radiata) but also, to a lesser extent, other species such a wild olive tree locally known as acebuche (Olea cerasiformis), acacias (Acacia cyclops, A. cyanophyla), fruit trees, etc.

A bit further on, you will reach a picnic area. Go up the stone steps; they will take you to the Casa de los Padrones, from which you can make out the houses of Vega de Río Palmas. You will then go down until you reach the outskirts of the Aula de la Naturaleza de Parra Medina. After passing this Nature Study Centre, go south-eastwards onto a tar-track to enter the Bar-ranco de Palomares. The presence of prickly pear plantations (Opuntia spp.) is quite impressive on the side of this ravine. These plants, of Mexican origin, were once used to cultivate carmine dye (Dactylopius coccus).


Los Granadillos valley

GR® 131

51

The trail continues through the ravine until it reaches a small tunnel. At the end of the tunnel you will find yourself in the Barranco de Río Palmas. Keep walking in the ravine for 1.5 kilometres. On its sides, there are many traditional water har-vesting systems known as „gavias“ and some trees and plants such as the Canarian palm tree (Phoenix canariensis) and tama-risks (Tamarix canariensis).

After this stretch, our GR meets the SL-FV 2 Vega de Río Pal-mas-Presa de las Peñitas. About 500 metres further on, there is a bridge with a series of arcades. You will have to turn right onto the secondary road FV-323 to leave the ravine. Both trails continue for half a kilometre, where the SL-FV 27 leaves our route on an earthern track and the GR goes on by the road that borders the reservoir named Presa de las Peñitas. The abundant vegetation that surrounds the reservoir is quite surprising for an island as arid as Fuerteventura. You will see there is a particu-larly outstanding tamarisk grove which is the home of a signif-icant variety of insects. These bugs are very attractive for birds who find shelter in this small wood.

You will then walk away from the reservoir to enter the Valle de los Granadillos; there are several types of traditional culti-vation systems in this ravine: the „gavias“ at the bottom of the ravine, „cadenas“ on the slopes and „nateros“ which are perpen-dicular to the ravine bed.

After an ascent of approximately one kilometre, you will cross the secondary road FV-30 and keep going up to the De-gollada de Terequey (a gorge also known as Granadillos). From


Balsam Spurges

Pájara

GR® 131

52

here, descend its ravine, where spurges (Euphorbia spp.) grow comparatively large as they are protected from the strong winds that lash the rest of the island.

Once out of the ravine, you will come upon the village of Toto, via Calle Cuesta de San Antonio. You will go past San An-tonio chapel, and continue to the end of the street. Then turn right to go down the ravine riverbed, which bears the same name as the village and you will end up at Pájara. A sculpture of a herdsman milking his goats on a roundabout indicates the entrance of the town. Take the second exit; it will lead you to the end of this stretch, to the Plaza de la Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Regla.


GR® 131

53

The Macizo de Betancuria (Massif of Betancuria)

The first fourteen or fifteen kilometres of Stretch 5 go through the eastern zone of the Macizo de Betancuria, which is set deep into the only Rural Park of the island.

The surface area of this massif is almost completely encom-passed by Fuerteventura’s emerging basal complex, which is composed of materials that differ in age and origin, amongst which figure the oldest of the Canarian archipelago (180 mil-lion years). This characteristic makes it quite exceptional from a geological point of view on an insular scale but some of the elements that comprise the basal complex are renown even on an international scale.

The current relief of the island is quite smooth; this is due to the erosive activity it has undergone for several millions of years. The erosive agents have been responsible for lowering and modelling the landscape which nowadays is characterised by hills with gentle slopes and rounded summits which pres-ent a peculiar mixture of colours.


Duration Expected

Highest Point

Lowest Point


Type of Route

7 hrs.

494 m

33 m

25,3 km




Effort Required

3

3

4

4


Profile

Stretch 5

LA PAREDPÁJARA

100 m

3 km 6 km 9 km 12 km 15 km 18 km 21 km 25,29 km0 km

200 m300 m400 m500 m

El Cardón Las Hermosas

GR® 131

54

Stretch 6

Pájara - La Pared

Map 7

Stretch 6 | Pájara - La Pared

GR® 131

55


This stretch begins at the church of Nuestra Señora de Regla en Pájara and continues for about 400 metres in the town cen-tre of Pájara as indicated by the directional signposts for this route. Once you have passed the flour mill you will go into the Barranco de La Cañada ravine, leaving behind you on your left a number of „gavias“. Keep walking until you get to a slight hill where you will go left to follow a steeper climb for a few kilo-metres until you reach Filo de Tejeda. From this point, the route runs along the different summits and gorges until it reaches the Cuchillo de los Pasos. Along this last section, you can stop wher-ever you wish to, given that the views are spectacular every-where. From this area, you can observe the west and the east coast of the island, the beautiful landscapes of the hills behind you, the valleys and „cuchillos“ in the east of the island (Natural Monument of Cuchillos de Vigán). Looking eastwards, you will also see the central plain of Fuerteventura and westwards the mountain known as Montaña de Melindraga.

From the Cuchillo de los Pasos you will go down a winding path, leaving on your right the ravine called Barranco de Bácher, until you arrive at Morro del Moralito. At this promontory there is a rest area from which you will start your descent down the Barranco de Bácher and continue until you reach the village of Cardón. From the village, go south until you reach another rest area next to a farmyard marked off by a wall of stones named “gambuesa”. Then continue down the lower part of the Rincones de Tamaretilla, down the mountain slopes of Montaña Cardón, until you reach the gorge of Guerime where you will cross the road FV-617. Once on the other side, the trail runs parallel to the road for about 2.5 kilometres. At the end, you will encounter an imposing gateway; continue on the earthern track which goes through the village of Las Hermosas and this stretch ends in the tourist area of La Pared.

Teasel (Wolfsmilchgewächs)

GR® 131

56

FloraThroughout the whole route, you

can observe many plant species, such as gorse (Launaea arborescens). Howev-er, it is worth keeping your eyes peeled in two specific zones: in the area of Cuchillo de los Pasos, where you can see Canarian chaparro (Convolvulus caput-medusae), and in the area of Rin-cones de Tamaretilla, on the mountain slopes of Montaña de Cardón, there are species such as the woody sow thistle (Sonchus pinnatifidus), the Caralluma burchardii (a cactus-like plant found in the Canaries and Morocco) and as-paragus plants (Asparagus nesiotes pur-puriensis), although these species are mostly found at the highest points of the island. In this area, we recommend a stop to take a look at the numer-ous Canary Island spurges (Euphorbietum canariensis) and balsam spurges (Euphorbietum balsamífera).


GR® 131

57

GeomorphologyThe first part of the route runs along the Ma-

cizo de Betancuria. The landscape of this massif is characterised by the abundance of hills with gentle slopes and rounded summits. On reach-ing Cuchillo de los Pasos, it is worth taking a small break to examine the peculiar shape of its summit. From this point, you can also observe several of the most typical geological formations of Fuerteven-tura. If you look towards the north, you can also contemplate the hilly landscape of the Macizo de Betancuria. When gazing from the north-east to the east, you can also appreciate the central plain which is a great hollow located in the central zone of the island and is the result of a complex erosion process that started millions of years ago. You will also observe the different valleys and „cuchillos“

(Natural Monument of Cuchillos de Vigán) which are cut into the oldest volcanic structures of the island. Looking towards the south, you will see the Cuchillos de Cardón.


Duration Expected

Highest Point

Lowest Point


Type of Route

5 hrs. 30 min.

244 m

34 m

18 km




Effort Required

3

4

2

3


Profile

Stretch 7

Sotavento beach

GR® 131

58

Stretch 7

La Pared - Risco del Paso

Map 8

Stretch 7 | La Pared - Risco del Paso

Trail and eolian farm

GR® 131

59

Stretch 7 of the GR-131 begins at the start of Avenida del Istmo. You will walk until the end of this avenue. Next, you will set foot on sandy land and take the track that opens out on your left (parallel to the houses). This sector is covered by sand and the trail might be buried or erased so you will have to be careful not to get confused and take any secondary track.

There are no populated areas throughout this stretch there-fore it is imperative to carry enough water with you.

You will continue your hike in the Natural Park of Jandía, in the area known as El Jable, in which you will walk for almost 10


Vachuelo de Cuevas Labradas ravine

GR® 131

60

kilometres on this stretch. During this time, you can appreciate sections that are paved with limestone. These paths belong to the former „prisoners‘ route“, which bears this name because they were built by the political prisoners during Franco‘s re-gime who were held in Tefía. Nowadays, most of these paths have disappeared or are buried under the sand.

You will walk towards Piedras Negras where you will pick out in the distance the generators of the wind farm. Keep walk-ing, passing the small mountain of El Granillo on your left and you will enter the heart of this rural landscape.

You will pass Alto de Agua Oveja westwards and go towards the slopes of Lomo Cuchillete, where the landscape is greener and the trail is no longer sandy; it turns into an earthern track that goes down the riverbed of the Barranco Vachuelo de Cue-vas Labradas. Along this section you will enter the ravine and skirt Atalayeja Grande, where you can contemplate the contrast between the “jable” and the land on the sides of the ravine. You will then arrive at the Casas de Pecenescal where the farming tradition is defined by the cultivation areas and the livestock present in that zone. From here, go down the Barranco de Pece-nescal, cross a main road and keep walking towards the coast to conclude this stretch on the beach known as Playa de So-tavento.


GR® 131

61

The Prisoners’ RouteWithin El Jable, in the isthmus of the peninsula of Jandía,

there is a path made of limestone that is about a metre and half wide that extends throughout the north coast of the isthmus, from La Pared to Pecenescal. Nowadays, it is quite deteriorated and it can only be seen where the sand has not covered it.

It is a reminiscence of what was once the only access to Jandía. It was built between 1946 and 1948 by order of Gustav Winter, the manager of the Dehesa de Jandía at the time. The political prisoners of Franco’s regime imprisoned in the con-centration camp and the Colony of the Idle and Miscreants of Tefía, as it used to be called were used by Winter as forced la-bour. This establishment was located in the centre of the island and goes back to the beginning of the republican period.

This path, known as the prisoners’ route, is part of the cul-tural heritage of the island of Fuerteventura.


Duration Expected

Highest Point

Lowest Point


Type of Route

5 hrs.

49 m

2 m

14,4 km




Effort Required

2

2

2

2


Profile

Stretch 8

RISCO DEL PASO MORRO JABLE

20 m

40 m

60 m

1,6 km 3,2 km 4,8 km 6,4 km 8,0 km 9,6 km 11,2 km 12,8 km 14,38 km0 km

PLAYA DEL MAL NOMBRE PLAYA DEL MATORRALPLAYA DE BUTIHONDO

GR® 131

62

Stretch 8

Risco del Paso - Morro Jable

Map 9

Stretch 8 | Risco del Paso - Morro Jable

This stretch starts from the mouth of the Barranco de Pece-nescal. You will leave the ravine to climb up to the Morrete de la Mareta and then continue your route skirting the coastline throughout almost the entire stretch. It is worth noting that on this stretch you will cross the mouths of a few major ravines such as: El Salmo, Los Canarios, Mal Nombre and Esquinzo. Once you have passed the mouth of the Barranco de Esquinzo, the trail runs through several hotel complexes, with some sections on the sandy beach until you reach Avenida Morro Jable and conclude the stretch into the main square of this tourist town. The landscape covered by the trail is defined by two essential elements: a long beach on the coastline and old volcanic re-lief covered by eolian sands known as „jable“ inland. Along the route, you will see that the coast is mostly sandy and low-lying (the heights do not exceed 40 metres above sea level).

GR® 131

63


GR® 131

64

GeomorphologyThe following characteristics are particularly worth

noting:

Wind Modelling: The abundance of sand formations shaped by the wind is a typical feature of the area. It is due to the great amount of sand that comes from the sea (jable), the arid climate and its vegetation that do not help to stabilise the sand and the many flat areas on which the wind can form vast zones of dunes. In the area of Pecenescal, you can appreciate the dunes where the current winds are displaced from the north and north-east towards the south and the south-west, which makes some beaches quite windy.

Shapes on the Coastline: The shapes of the coast-al relief are the result of interaction between the geo-logical structure, morphogenetic processes of the earth and hydrodynamic agents (waves, tides and currents in-duced by waves).

This area is very rich in different landforms, and the coastline presents accumulations of minerals which

give way to magnificent examples of beaches and dunes.


Canary Island

stonechat (male)

GR® 131

65

FaunaThe tremendous aridness, the

winds and the high temperatures are fac-tors that limit the existence of animals in this area. A group of steppe birds such as the cream-coloured courser (Curso-rius cursor bannermani), the stone cur-lew (Burhinus oedicnemus insularum) and the Canarian houbara (Chlamydotis undulata fuerteven-turae) live in the sandy and alluvial areas inland. Nest-ing birds such as the Canary Islands stonechat (Saxicola dacotiae), an endemic species of Fuerteventura, and the trumpeter finch (Bucanetes githagineus) are more wide-spread inland.

On the seashore and in the coastal marshes, you will mostly see birds, such as the snowy plover (Charadrius alexandrinus) or the little ringed plover (Charadrius dubi-us) that look for food in the damp sand.

So far as mammals are concerned, the most present is the Barbary ground squirrel (Atlantoxerus getulus), a species that was introduced on the island quite recently. Among the reptiles, the most abundant are the Atlantic lizard (Gallotia atlantica mahoratae) and the East Canary gecko (Tarentola angustimentalis).


Duration Expected

Highest Point

Lowest Point


Type of Route

5 hrs.

92 m

5 m

19 km




Effort Required

3

3

2

3


Profile

Stretch 9

GR® 131

66

Stretch 9

Morro Jable - Punta de Jandía

Map 10

Stretch 9 | Morro Jable - Punta de Jandía

Punta de Jandía lighthouse

Coastline of Morro Jable

GR® 131

67

This stretch of the GR-131 starts at the beach of Morro Jable and goes down south until you reach some steps that will lead you to an interesting viewpoint. From here, a part of the coast of Morro Jable opens out to you. It looks quite small next to the vastness of the ocean. Next, you will go through an urban area and cross the main road to take a trail leading you to the grave-yard of Morro Jable. Following the coastline, keep walking until you reach the Tablero de Peñas Blancas. If you pay attention, you will see that on this section there are specimens of Jandía teasel (Euphorbia handiensis). This plant is an endemic species, which is exclusive on Fuerteventura and you only come across it in some specific areas of Jandía. Here, the GR unites with the small route PR-FV 55 Gran Valle-Degollada de Cofete-Cofete.

Stick to the trail and walk past the houses of the Tablero de Peñas Blancas. You will then come across a series of plateaus in which the scarce vegetation clearly contrasts this unusual landscape of valleys and mountains with the proximity of the coastline.


Tableros

GR® 131

68

On reaching a rest area, you can contemplate Valle de Jorós, a valley once known for its vast areas of tomato plantations. You will then skirt Montaña de Jorós towards Valle de los Mosquitos and get onto a path that follows the coastline to enter the Nat-ural Park of Jandía. It is recommended not to leave the trail as the many intertwining tracks can be misleading. You will follow small cliff-tops and mouths of several ravines before reaching the village of Las Salinas. At this point the GR shares its route with the circular PR-FV 56 El Puertito-Caleta de la Madera-El Puertito. Both itineraries go to El Puertito, a small village char-acterised by its unique windmill.

The small route ends here whereas the last section of the GR-131 goes on via La Angostura to the lighthouse of Punta de Jandía. Once there, you can visit the Interpretation Centre of the Natural Park of Jandía, a small museum located at the far end of the island, which displays interesting temporary exhibitions.


GR® 131

69

Jandía teasel (Euphorbia handiensis)The Jandía teasel was declared a vegetal symbol of the is-

land of Fuerteventura by the Government of the Canary Islands in 1991.

Also known as the hairy teasel, this succulent cactus-shaped shrub is characterised by its reduced size, as it reaches a max-imum height of one metre. It has many branches and its small green-yellowish and reddish flowers are arranged among long and straight spines.

It is an endemic species, typical of the island, which used to be part of much bigger teasel fields not so long ago. Nowadays, this plant figures on the list of endangered species, because of the small number of specimens and its area of occupancy is very limited, as it can only be found in specific places on the Peninsula of Jandía.


Tamarisks in Agua Cabras, Jandía

PR®

Ū PR®-FV 1 | Barranco de la Cañada de Melián - Esquinzo

Ū PR®-FV 9 | Tindaya - Vallebrón - Tefía

Ū PR®-FV 15 y 15.1 | Tetir - Tefía

Ū PR®-FV 54 | Morro Jable - Pico de la Zarza

Ū PR®-FV 55 | Gran Valle - Cofete

Ū PR®-FV 56 | El Puertito

Duration Expected

Highest Point

Lowest Point


Type of Route

5 hrs. 30 min.

156 m

27 m

14,5 km




Effort Required

2

1

1

2


Profile

PR®-FV 1

La Mareta mountain

PR®

72

PR®-FV 1

Barranco de la Cañada de Melián - Esquinzo

Map 11

PR®-FV 1 | Barranco de la Cañada de Melián - Esquinzo

El Fraile mountain

PR®

73

The PR-FV 1 leaves from Montaña de la Mareta and heads towards the south via the sandy ravine of Cañada de Melián, where you will find yourself before an incredible landscape in which silence and solitude are your only companions for the first few kilometres. You will then continue your hike up to Ma-jada de las Pilas, a semi-desert plain which shelters the most in-teresting bird communities of the island: the steppe birds. The most outstanding species of these communities is the Canarian houbara (Chlamydotis undulata fuertaventurae), the animal sym-bol of Fuerteventura. Next, you will ascend towards the north-east, between Montaña del Fraile and a rest area, where you can take a break and enjoy this uninhabited landscape. A few metres further on, you will reach Montaña de los Corrales. From there, you can make out the small village El Roque on the right, and the coastal village El Cotillo in front of you. Once the hous-es of Montaña del Fraile are behind you, you will set foot on Ta-blero Alto de la Molina. This plateau is quite special as it boasts one solitary windmill. You will then follow the direction of El Cotillo and walk by the Castillo del Tostón, a for-mer fortress


Trail

Windmill between El Roque and El Cotillo

PR®

74

WindmillsFuerteventura contains within its semi-desert landscape

the history of a people who have managed to adapt to their surroundings. There was a time, not so long ago, that Fuerte-ventura had a significant cereal industry. The inhabitants used windmills all around the island to grind toasted grains of corn, wheat, barley, rye, etc… and in hard times, more modest grains such as slenderleaf ice plant (Mesembryanthemum nodif-lorum) and common iceplant (Mesembryanthemum crystal-linum) to make the food all Canarians are so grateful for: the „gofio“. Nowadays, people have almost forgotten those times; however, many mills scattered throughout the island are there to remind us.

Mills appeared on the island during the 17th and 18th century and were used with the already existing flour mills (a wooden device for grinding pulled by a camel or a donkey). They take advantage of the intense persistent trade winds and use them as their driving force. Towards the 19th and 20th centuries, the „molinas“, an evolution of the windmills, became more extensively used on the island.

The mill consists of a circular building made of lime, stone and mud. It is built on three floors: the first one is used to keep the miller‘s tools, the middle floor collects the grain and the


PR®

75

of the 18th century. From here, the path turns into an earthern track often used by cars. Follow the signs down to the seashore. You will see how the long white sandy beaches are set off by the imposing ocean encircling us. Its beautiful tones of blue and green will really tempt you to go for a dip. Follow the coast-line with its impressive cliffs until the end of the stretch: Playa de Esquinzo. Once on the beach, you can go for a well-deserved swim in the sea.

In that area, it is frequent to encounter half-wild coastal goats are herded together once in a while in traditional “apaña-das” (Canarian term explained a little further on in this guide; it

is a sort of gathering of goat tribes).

whole mechanism of the machinery is set on the top floor.

The innovation of the „molinas“ is the separation between the house and the machinery. The house is

a square or rectangle room from which a free-standing wooden tower stands out (the machinery). The great advan-

tage of the „molina“ over the traditional mill is that as it is on the same floor, the miller does not have to go up and down the stairs carrying bags of grain all day.

These two inventions are the standing proof of a culture of grain that has now disappeared. Nevertheless, one

should bear in mind that, for centuries, the use of these mills was one of the few resources of the

economy of Fuerteventura. Nowadays, the re-mains of the mills remind us who the Ma-

joreros once were.


Duration Expected

Highest Point

Lowest Point


Type of Route

5 hrs.

513 m

198 m

15,3 km




Effort Required

2

2

3

3


Profile

PR®-FV 9

PR®

76

PR®-FV 9

Tindaya - Vallebrón - Tefía

Map 4

The PR-FV 9 starts from the church of Tindaya, Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Caridad. Go eastwards on Calle de La Oli-va until you reach an intersection with the secondary road FV-10. Here the PR takes an earthern track that runs parallel to the road up to a small tunnel you will have to go through. The trail then ascends between a promontory and a mountain: Morro Tabaiba, towards the north, and Montaña de Enmedio, towards the south. From this spot, you can behold the beauty of Mon-taña de Tindaya, the solitary mountain that stands in the mid-dle of a plain.

You will then head east and descend by Valle Chico, which presents different traditional types of cultivation. In addition, on the sides of the valley, you can appreciate some stunted-look-ing green shrubs: balsam and ‚wild‘ spurges (Euphorbia spp.).

PR®-FV 9 | Tindaya - Vallebrón - Tefía

Trail along Chico valley

PR®

77

You will follow the earthern track until you reach a tar-road that will lead you to the cultural centre of Vallebrón. Then turn right onto Calle La Mareta, until you reach the intersection with the secondary road FV-103, which you will follow westwards to enter Gran Valle. Once there, take the fourth exit on the left and start climbing towards Degollada de la Renegada, leaving behind the houses of Vallebrón. Along this section, you can ob-serve Canary Island daisies (Asteriscus sericeus), verodes (Kleinia

neriifolia) and spurges (Euphorbia spp.). Once you arrive at the gorge, there is a possibility of

climbing, by an adjacent track, to one of the highest mountains of the island,

La Muda (689 m), but your trail goes down the slope to the

village of La Matilla. You will enter it


Tindaya chapel

La Matilla

PR®

78

through its narrow streets until you reach the secondary road FV-10. Cross the road and take the earthern track. This was once the main road that united La Matilla with Tefía. To get to the finishing point of the PR, you will skirt Montaña de la Caldera and walk for a kilometre until you reach a crossroads. Here, the PR meets Stretch 3 of the GR-131; the two routes then go north to Ermita de San Agustín. The PR-FV 9 ends at your arrival at the chapel.


Balsam Spurge

Wild Spurge

PR®

79

SpurgesBalsam spurges (Euphorbia bal-

samifera) and the plants known in Spanish as wild spurges (Euphorbia regis-jubae) are succulent shrubs that belong to the family of Eu-phorbiacea. They are usually found in low-lying areas, and settle on ru-dimentary rocky grounds. They can survive in this arid climate of scarce rainfall and high temperatures. In very windy areas, spurges protect themselves by adopting a stunted shape, on the other hand, in shel-tered areas, the spurges are taller and look almost like trees.

The balsam spurge is differentiated from the ‘wild’ spurge by its inflorescence of only one terminal flower which gives a big fruit and because it usually has more branches. Its leaves are also shorter and narrower than those of the ‘wild’ spurge.

Both plants are characterised by the milky latex they se-crete when their stems are cut. While the latex of the balsam spurge is not harmful (that is why it is called balsam), the latex of the ‘wild’ spurge is very toxic. Nevertheless, both have been used for different purposes in the past.

The latex of balsam spurges was used to make gum which was used among other things to hermetically seal wine bar-rels or to cap the nipples of goats in order to wean kids. On the other hand, ‘wild’ spurge latex was mainly used to disorient or “embroscar”. “Embroscar” was a Canarian fishing technique which consists in introducing latex into a small lake in order to make the fish drowsy so as to capture them more easily.


Duration Expected

Highest Point

Lowest Point


Type of Route

4 hrs.

491 m

220 m

11,7 km




Effort Required

1

2

3

2


Profile

PR®-FV 15

PR®

80

PR®-FV 15 and 15.1

Tetir - Tefía

Map 5

These two small trails start from Tetir and finish in Tefía; however, their itinerary differs.

The PR-FV 15 and its alternative PR-FV 15.1 leave from the parish of Santo Domingo de Guzmán, and head south-west for about a kilometre. You then turn right onto an earthern track. You will start climbing and walk between two mountains: Mon-taña de San Andrés and Montaña de Tamateje. Next, you will go down for 500 metres until you reach the Sargenta country property. At this point, the PR is divided into the two different routes: the PR-FV 15 will lead you to Casillas del Ángel, and the PR-FV 15.1 goes by the valley of Tetir towards Degollada de Fa-cay.

PR®-FV 15 y 15.1 | Tetir - Tefía

Duration Expected

Highest Point

Lowest Point


Type of Route

4 hrs. 30 min.

469 m

223 m

7,8 km




Effort Required

1

2

3

2


Profile

PR®-FV 15.1

Mountains of Tamateje (on the left) and San Andrès (on the right)

PR®

81

PR®-FV 15 | Tetir - Casillas del Ángel - TefíaThe PR-FV 15 goes southwards for around 600 metres. You

will then arrive at a rest area where the fertile Valle de Tetir opens out before you. This valley has been an agricultural area since time immemorial.

You will then keep walking up a regular ascent via Majada de los Abreus, until you reach Degollada de la Sargenta, where if you listen carefully, you will hear the shrieks of a prey bird: the common buzzard (Buteo buteo insularum). Regarding flora, you will mostly come across gorse bushes (Launaea arborescens) and wild tobacco (Nicotiana glauca), although in the highest areas, you will also find balsam spurges (Euphorbia balsamifera) and verodes (Kleinia neriifolia).


Verode

Division of the PR ®

PR®

82

At this stage of the trail, you can contemplate the so-called “cuchillos”, long and narrow mountain heights ending in a ridge or a hill. They are the result of intense erosion endured over time.

From here, you will de-scend towards Casillas del Ángel, a group of houses at

your feet, by taking the earthern track. You will go through the village, which is surrounded by “gavias” and go westwards until Llano de las Pilas. Once on this plain, you will start climbing by a slightly elevated trail and go past Degollada de la Vista de Casil-las to then skirt Pico de la Fortaleza. You will see the town of Tefía from this peak. To get there, you will go along El Paso Alto. Arriving at a water reservoir means


U-shaped Tetir valley

Common Buzzard

PR®

83

you have only 800 metres left to complete this small route, the end being at the cultural centre of Tefía.

PR®-FV 15 | Tetir - Degollada de Facay - Tefía

The alternative PR-FV 15.1 goes past Cortijo de la Sargenta to enter Valle de Tetir towards the west. This valley is quite impressive as constant erosion

has left it U-shaped. Within the valley, there are different types of traditional cultivation systems;

“gavias” and “cadenas”.

Keep going towards the west and you will start to climb up to Degollada de

Facay. On your right, you will notice some dried up ponds; they are used by farmers to collect runoff water

which they store to use whenever needed.

A bit higher, you will cross some wooden bridges that will lead you to the gorge. On the way, you will encounter some specimens of verodes (Kleinia neriifolia) and ‘wild’ spurges (Eu-phorbia regis-jubae), although you will mainly see gorse bushes (Launaea arborescens).


Trail towards the Facay gorge

San Agustín chapel

PR®

84

Once in the Degollada de Facay, you will discover spectac-ular panoramic views: towards the east, you will be faced with the immensity of Valle de Tetir, and towards the west, the village of Tefía, which is located on a plain where the solitary Montaña Bermeja stands.

You will then descend for about a kilometre before reaching the foot of Morro Bermejo. From this promontory, go towards the north-west, towards Tefía and this short stretch ends at the chapel of the town.


PR®

85

Gavias (traditional irrigation systems)Gavias are a form of traditional irrigation system; they are

typical of Fuerteventura but are also used in other dry areas of the world. They are widespread on the Majorera island, al-though many are abandoned nowadays. This system consists in flat farming lands surrounded by earth or earth and stone walls. These walls are one-metre high and are locally called “trastones”. The aim of this irrigation system is to retain water inside the walls by means of channels or pipes that lead the water inside the „gavia“ where it will slowly be filtered into the soil to allow the plants to grow. Each „gavia“ has a system, at the opposite side of where the water comes in, that allows the evacuation of excess water to another „gavia“ or towards the riverbed of a ravine in case of overflow.

Thanks to the “gavias”, the Majorero has managed to make viable agricultural production (mainly of cereals and legumes) in a very arid territory, where this cultivation would otherwise have been impossible.


Duration Expected

Highest Point

Lowest Point


Type of Route

2 hrs. 30 min.

807 m

8 m

7,5 km




Effort Required

2

1

2

3

Forth and Back

Profile

PR®-FV 54

Costa de Barlovento (windward coastline)

PR®

86

PR®-FV 54

Morro Jable - Pico de la Zarza

Maps 9 and 10

PR®-FV 54 | Morro Jable - Pico de la Zarza

Costa de Sotavento (leeward coastline)

La Zarza peak

PR®

87

By taking the PR-FV 54, you will discover one of the best views of the Canary Islands from a significant standpoint: the Pico de La Zarza, at 807 metres, is the highest peak of Fuerte-ventura.

You will start this small route at the roundabout of Morro Jable which represents the masts and sails of a boat. You will then go up a small avenue until you reach the first intersecti-on where you will turn left, and after a bend, you will fork right onto an earthern track which leads to a water reservoir. From this point, you will enter the Natural Park of Jandía and ascend to Pico de las Atalayejas, where you can spot a golf complex when looking southwards. From here, the trail goes up evenly to a peak among ‚wild‘ spurges (Eu-phorbia regis-jubae), verodes (Kleinia neriifolia) and Canary Island daisies (Asteriscus sericeus), until it reaches the Pico de la Zarza. Once at the top, you will discover incredible views of the coast of Barlovento to the west and of Sotavento to the east which mark the end of the peninsula of Jandía.

This is a privileged place where the unspoilt beauty is accen-tuated by the sound of the waves of the Playa de Cofete. The natural melody on this beach is only interrupted occasionally by the shrieking of birds that are looking for shelter at the sum-mit. Among them are two species which are in grave danger of extinction: the Barbary falcon (Falco pelegrinoides) and the Canarian Egyptian vulture (Neophron percnopterus majorensis).


PR®

88

The Canarian

Egyptian vulture

The Canarian Egyptian vulture (Neo-phron perc-

nopterus majorensis), also known in Spanish as Alimoche canario is the

only vulture present in the Canarian archipelago.

It is the biggest bird of the Canary Islands; and whilst it is migratory on the European continent, in the Canaries

it is sedentary.

It presents singular morphological and genetic features so it can be considered as a new sub-species. It is big: it has a 1.65-metre wingspan, it measures about 70 centimetres from head to foot and can weigh up to 2 kilogrammes.

When they are young they are blackish, but the colour of their plumage gets lighter and lighter until it is totally white and they have a black streak on their wings. It feeds on all kinds of carrion and keeps the island clear of dead animals thus pre-venting the spread of diseases.

In the past, Canarian Egyptian vultures were very common on all the islands; it was even considered the most abundant day bird of prey of the archipelago. Today however, it is in dan-ger of extinction. Its population is limited to Fuerteventura and there are a few individuals on Lanzarote.


Duration Expected

Highest Point

Lowest Point


Type of Route

2 hrs.

360 m

64 m

6,7 km




Effort Required

2

1

3

2


Profile

PR®-FV 55

PR®

89

PR®-FV 55

Gran Valle - Cofete

Map 10

The Natural Park of Jandía stands out both for its geology and biology; you will start this small route from here, at the foot of the Gran Valle. This valley is characterised by an abundance of gorse (Launaea arborescens) and European teatree (Lycium intricatum) and the exclusive endemic Jandía teasel (Euphorbia handiensis), which was declared vegetal symbol of the island. You will go inland towards the Casas de Gran Valle, where you will see an aboriginal village original structures of which have been altered over time. You will ascend until you reach Degolla-da de Cofete. This gorge provides exceptional panoramic views: eastwards, Gran Valle, and westwards, the gulf of Cofete, which has been reduced to a half-moon shape, its western half having disappeared 12-14 million years ago due to a great gravitation-al landslide.

PR®-FV 55 | Gran Valle - Cofete

Cofete cemetary

PR®

90

Once you have passed the gorge, you will descend on the Barlovento side, and the sound of the waves will lead you down to the seashore.

You will go past the Villa Winter on your right and walk up to the houses of the small village of Cofete to see its restored lime-stone kiln. Your itinerary will end on the village beach. Playa de Cofete impresses its visitors by its natural beauty and its curious cemetery in the middle of the jable.

This area is clearly important for birds; the trail actually crosses a ZEPA (Spanish acronym for an ornothological special protection area). On the higher lands, you may see endangered endemic species, such as the Canarian Egyptian vulture (Neo-phron percnopterus majorensis). In addition, the peninsula of Jandía is one of the best areas of the island to see the exclusive and endemic


Gran valley

Goat

PR®

91

Canary Islands stonechat (Saxicola dacotiae), present from the coastline to the mountainous areas.

On your way, you will probably also encounter some half-wild goats (Capra spp.) gathered in tradition-al “apañadas”.


Gambuesa on the peninsula of Jandía

PR®

92

Apañadas (gathering of goat tribes)Apañadas are one of the few manifestations inherited from

the pre-European Majos that are still alive in Fuerteventura. They consist in gathering the half-wild livestock of the coast into a circular corral made of stones named gambuesa. There are sometimes several smaller adjacent gambuesas that are used to separate livestock.

The main purposes of the apañadas are to check the con-dition of the livestock, to wean the kids called baifos, to mark new heads, to castrate male goats, to match up mothers and kids and to obtain meat. The figure of the commissioner or comisionado was created to take care of these responsibil-ities. He is in charge of the organisation of the apañadas, its regulation and the maintenance of the gambuesas. He is given powers by the town council and elected by both the latter and fellow stockbreeders.

This tradition starts at sunrise, when the herdsmen, divided into groups and holding their straight crooks, go over the ter-ritory with their dogs to gather the livestock and shut it in the gambuesa, where the activities specific to the apañada take place.


Villa Winter

PR®

93

The Legend of the Villa WinterThe Villa Winter is a type of mansion located in Cofete, one

of the most isolated areas of Fuerteventura. It is currently cut off, except for a steep stone path which gives access to it.

It is a curious house which was ordered to be built in the first half of the 20th century by Gustav Winter, a rich engineer of German origin, whose enigmatic activities awoke a great deal of suspicion among the people of the island.

Many have asked why Don Gustavo (as he was known by the islanders) had ordered the construction of this homestead and there have been many theories about its existence.

The legend says that Winter used the house as a supply base for a fleet of Nazi submarines during the Second World War. There have therefore been speculations about the exis-tence of underground tunnels that would lead from the villa‘s basement to the sea. Its turret raises all kinds of questions… it is believed that it was used as a lookout and an orientation point for submarines or planes that landed on the Winter run-way, situated near Puertito de la Cruz. The house could also have served as holiday accommodation for many German of-ficials of the regime. It has even been said that it could have been Hitler‘s refuge for when the war was over.

Although these stories are probably only rumours that sound more interesting than the truth, these legends give the place a touch of intrigue and mystery.


Duration Expected

Highest Point

Lowest Point


Type of Route

4 hrs. 30 min.

106 m

10 m

11,5 km




Effort Required

1

3

2

2

Circular

Profile

PR®-FV 56

El Puertito

PR®

94

PR®-FV 56

El Puertito - Caleta de la Madera - El Puertito

Map 10


Low-lying cliff-tops

PR®

95

This small route, that crosses the Natural Park of Jandía, starts on the south coast of Fuerteventura at El Puertito, a small fishing village surrounded by golden sand or jable.

You will find yourself facing a completely sustainable land-scape, far from the big coastal urbanisations, from which you will leave heading westwards, skirting the coastline which is generally formed by unevenly-shaped cliffs and shows only a few sand accumulations like Playa de Ojos.

When you arrive at the area known as Llano del Cotillo, head north. You will cross a sandy area, until you reach Las Atalaye-jas (also known as Las Talahijas). You will walk by the Caleta de


Aguas Cabras cove

Trail

PR®

96

la Madera and set eyes on the impressive cliff that has borne the erosive process carried out by the sea for millions of years. This cove also presents a small solitary rock that still braves the charges of the boisterous Atlantic Ocean.

You will keep walking up to Caleta de Agua Cabras which offers splendid views towards the arch of Cofete, and even of El Jable, an area covered by golden sand mostly made up of particles of marine organisms.

Next, go down Degollada de Agua Cabras where you will see copses of tamarisks. You will then go eastwards into an arid environment with very little vegetation consisting mostly of gorse (Launaea arborescens), Suaeda and Salsola genera known in Spanish as „salados“ meaning ‚salties‘ as they are confined to saline or alkaline soil habitats. In the middle of this natural setting, amongst the many moun-tains, you will notice Montaña Azufrá, a greyish trachyte piton.

Going down to sea level you will arrive at Las Salinas. At this point, your path joins the last stretch of the GR-131-Punta Morro Jable Jan-dia, and together, they go back to El Puertito.


PR®

97

RunwaysIn an area of Fuerteventura prevailed by aridness and si-

lence, it is quite surprising to see there are two runways built during the last century.

Winter Runway

The first one was planned by Gustav Winter, a German engineer who managed the Dehesa de Jandía for the marquises of Lanzarote (Counts of Santa Coloma and Cifuentes). This pastureland was fenced up to the level of Matas Blancas. The runway, built in Las Hoyas, was used to transport guests, usually hunters and fishermen, and Spanish soldiers who used it as a rescue aerodrome. Nonethe-less, the fact that ingoing and outgoing planes could not be monitored caused the prohibition of its use by the authorities.

Punta del Sol Runway

The second runway, made of black lapilli or picón volcanic stone, was built dur-ing the 1970s, when Gustav Winter’s lands changed own-ers, most them remaining in German hands. It was the Spanish-German Punta del Sol S.A. company that built this new runway in order to ease the communication with a new tourist resort. Lat-

er on, as the runway only measured 800 metres long by 30 me-tres wide, it was to be extended to allow promotional charter flights to use it. However, due to the isolation of the place and the lack of control over possible incoming planes, the request was refused.


SL®

Ū SL®-FV 2 | Lajares - Calderón Hondo

Ū SL®-FV 27 | Vega de Río Palmas - Presa de las Peñitas

Ū SL®-FV 28 | Agua de Bueyes - Vega de Río Palmas

Ū SL®-FV 29 | Antigua - Betancuria

Ū SL®-FV 31 | Tiscamanita - Vega de Río Palmas

Ū SL®-FV 53 | Cardón - El Tanquito

La Pared isthmus and the Jandía mountain range

Duration Expected

Highest Point

Lowest Point


Type of Route

1 hr.

198 m

77 m

3,5 km




Effort Required

1

1

1

1

Forth and Back

Profile

SL®-FV 2

SL®

100

SL®-FV 2

Lajares - Calderón Hondo

Map 3

SL®-FV 2 | Lajares - Calderón Hondo

Colorada mountain

Path towards Calderón Hondo

SL®

101

This local trail starts at the football pitch of Lajares. From this point, this SL and the second stretch of the GR-131 share the path for about a kilometre, up to the end of Calle Majanicho. The GR then turns right onto Calle de Los Cascajos towards Cor-ralejo, whereas the SL heads north-east on a stone path. You will see that around this stone path, the vegetation is scarce, mostly showing Russian thistle (Salsola spp.) and gorse (Lau-naea arborescens). Furthermore, in some periods of the year, you may observe reddish-purple hues on the sides of the path which are displayed by the slenderleaf ice plant (Mesembryan-themum nodiflorum).

In front of you Montaña Colorada rises up; the holes in its slopes show that it was once a lapilli or picón quarry. After

skirting this mountain, you will face Calderón Hondo. This great crater is united to Montaña Colorada to

the north-west. A


Union of SL®-FV2 with Stretch 2 of the GR®-131

SL®

102

few metres further on the trail splits into two different paths. If you choose to go left, you will reach the 70-metre deep Calderón Hondo. The right path follows the local trail and will lead you through a karst or malpais to the foot of Caldera Reba-nada, where the SL-FV 2 ends. From here you will reach the sec-ond stretch of the GR-131 to go back to Lajares, i.e. you can go back the way you came, or it is also possible to go northwards until you reach Corralejo.

Ice PlantsThe Canarian ice plants are herbaceous, of low reach and

belong to the Aizoaceaea family. They are found all over the island except in the mountains; they can bear long periods of draught and grow in saline rich areas. The most common are the slenderleaf ice plant (Mesembryanthemum nodiflorum) and the common ice plant (M. crystallinum), annual plants that are initially green and turn into a bright reddish-purple as the sum-mer approaches.

The Slenderleaf Ice Plant

It has been used since aboriginal times for nutritional pur-


SL®

103

poses, when the most appreciated grains were scarce. During the summer, the plant capsules were deposited in salty water pools which liberated the seeds called lavaderos. After having been washed, they were left to dry in the sun and then toasted and grind-ed with the same method as for any type of grain to make slightly salted and highly-nu-tritional gofio.

The Common Ice Plant

It became quite conse-quent in the island economy during the second half of the 18th century and beginning of the 19th century. The plant was used to obtain lye and its seeds, when food was scarce, were used to make “glass gofio” (see following paragraph).

Lye, a highly-alkaline ash (KOH), is obtained by incinera-tion, and mixed with water it was used to create hard blocks commonly called “common ice plant stones”. These stones were exported or used as soap (once the lye was mixed with animal fat). It also served, although to a smaller extent, to fab-ricate glass and some textiles.


Duration Expected

Highest Point

Lowest Point


Type of Route

1 hr.

256 m

199 m

3,4 km




Effort Required

1

1

2

1

Forth and Back

Profile

SL®-FV 27

SL®

104

SL®-FV 27

Vega de Río Palmas - Presa de las Peñitas

Map 6

The SL-FV 27 starts in Vega de Río Palmas, which owes its name to the Norman conquerors who were astounded by the number of palm trees and fountainheads in the place.

You will leave from the church of Nuestra Señora de la Peña, the patron saint of the island. Cross the secondary road FV-30 to enter the Barranco de Río Palmas. Walk into this ravine for 500 metres and you will find a bridge with several arches. Once there, turn right to go back onto the road and head south-west. You will walk by the low-lying houses of La Vega until reach-ing a crossroads which will lead you to the Presa de Las Peñitas which was built during the first half of the 20th century. To get to the reservoir, follow the riverbed of Barranco de Río Palmas; it will remind you of an oasis in the middle of an arid desert. The


Vega de Río Palmas

Río Palmas ravine

SL®

105

Canarian palm trees (Phoenix canariensis) and tamarisks (Tama-rix canariensis) are the main trees along the way, although you will also see verodes (Kleinia neriifolia), wild spurges (Euphorbia regis-jubae) and typical riverbank vegetation with giant reed (Arundo donax) and common reed (Phragmites australis).

The vegetation and the presence of water in some instanc-es encourage birds to come to this area. The common coot (Fu-lica atra) and the common moorhen (Gallinula chloropus) are the most significant species encountered.


Las Peñitas reservoir

Common coot

SL®

106

You will then go into the Barranco de las Peñitas by the right bank of the reservoir, which will lead you to the end of the local trail. Although our route ends here, passing by the reservoir you can visit the Ermita de la Virgen de la Peña, a small white chapel where, according to legend, the patron saint of the island ap-peared.


SL®

107

Presa de las Peñitas (Reservoir of Las Peñitas)

A reservoir is a storage system, built at some point of the course of a river or a ravine, which consists in a dam made of stone, concrete or loose materials that holds back runoff water. The whole system collects the water.

The reservoir you will see in the Barranco de las Peñitas was built between 1939 and 1940 although historical sources say that a wall was already built there at the end of the 19th centu-ry. This reservoir was mainly used to water the tomato planta-tions towards the mouth of the ravine.

In the 1950s, the reservoir started deteriorating because it received great quantities of sediment that were not removed and produced the beginning of the current siltation, thus pre-venting the storage of water.


Duration Expected

Highest Point

Lowest Point


Type of Route

2 hrs.

583 m

289 m

3,2 km




Effort Required

1

2

2

2


Profile

SL®-FV 28

SL®

108

SL®-FV 28

Agua de Bueyes - Vega de Río Palmas

Map 6

SL®-FV 28 | Agua de Bueyes - Vega de Río Palmas

Agua de Bueyes

European teatree

SL®

109


This local trail does not start in the village centre of Agua de Bueyes but in the Barranco de los Almácigos, a ravine located in the area known as La Capellanía, where you can find a rest area.

The many prickly pears (Opuntia spp.) that populate the slopes are quite impres-sive. They were widely cul-tivated in the past both for their fruit and the collection of cochineal.

A steady climb for about two kilometres will take you to Morro Rincón del Atajo. At the top of the promontory, a wonderful view of Vega de Río Palmas awaits you to the west.

Along the way, you walk past many wild spurges (Euphorbia regis-jubae), verodes (Kleinia nerrifolia), gorse (Launaea arbo-rescens), European teatree (Lycium intricatum) and remains of thermophile woods: a wild olive tree locally known as acebu-che (Olea cerasiformis).

At Morro Rincón, this trail joins the local trail SL-FV 31, which comes from Tiscamanita in the south. The two routes continue by the promontory named Morro Vista del Pueblo and gradu-ally go down an earthern track until reaching Calle Pedro Peña, and then onto the secondary road FV-30. Both itineraries follow this road to end at Plaza de Nuestra Señora de la Peña.

Prickly pears

SL®

110


SL®

111

CochinealCochineals (Dactylopius coccus) is a parasite insect from

Mexico which was introduced in the Canaries at the beginning of the 19th century to reduce the effect of the agricultural crisis the islands were undergoing during that period.

It is the female of the species that is used for commercial purposes. The females live stuck to the leaf stalks of some va-rieties of prickly pears. They are covered with whitish powder which they wrap themselves in when laying eggs. The individ-uals embed in the prickly pear leaf stalks and after fertilisation, they dry up and are reduced to dust which gives a red-purple dye called carmine, which is used for different applications (cosmetics, food, textiles).

In the second half of the 19th century, the exploitation of cochineal reached its peak as big shipments were made to Great Britain, France and other countries. Subsequently, this practice declined due to the use of artificial dyes; these were cheaper and replaced the valued carmine. Nowadays, there are still some islanders who collect cochineal given there is still demand in cosmetics, pharmaceutical products and even for food because of its natural origin.


Duration Expected

Highest Point

Lowest Point


Type of Route

2 hrs. 30 min.

594 m

263 m

5,5 km




Effort Required

1

1

2

2


Profile

SL®-FV 29

Path

SL®

112

SL®-FV 29

Antigua - Betancuria

Map 6

SL®-FV 29 | Antigua - Betancuria

Trail

SL®

113

This trail is one of the oldest of the island; it used to link Caleta de Fuste to Betancuria. Moreover, it was one of the trails used by the pilgrims of the island to worship the patron saint of Fuerteventura, the Virgen de la Peña.

This local trail starts at Plaza de la Iglesia de Antigua. From Calle Virgen de Antigua, it heads south and then turns onto Calle Molino down to the end where you will face an intersec-tion. On your right, there is a cereal mill, and further on to your left you will see a watermill. Then continue straight on towards the west and the trail will climb up to the Degollada del Marru-bio, also known as Degollada de la Villa. In this gorge, the local trail unites with the first part of stretch 5 of the GR-131 and to-gether they head towards Betancuria.

From here, you can stop to gaze upon the village you have just left and westwards, you will see the town that was the first capital of Fuerteventura, Betancuria.

Gradually go down between the hills by an earthern track until you reach Calle San Buenaventura which will lead you to the town centre of the former capital. Then cross the secondary road FV-30 and, taking Calle Hermanos Martín Fajardo, you will reach the destination of this route: the church Santa María de Betancuria.


SL®

114

The Mafasca LightOn Fuerteventura, there is a legend

and popular belief known as the Mafasca light. It is a light that appears some nights before hikers on lonely paths. Its presence is most frequent between the months of November and February, especially in rainy years. It appears both in clear and in cloudy nights.

Among the different versions of the Mafasca light, the essence of the legend dates from the beginning of the 19th cen-tury.

The story tells that a hungry herds-man who was far from any town or vil-lage walked about during the night in the search of food. Luckily for him though, he found a flock resting without a herdsman. He ran as fast as he could towards it and took one of the rams. Once he had it ready to roast, he started looking for wood to make the fire. However, on an island as desert-like as Fuerteventura, it was almost impossible to find wood. The only wood he found was a cross as it was a tradition on the island to place a wooden cross where a person had died. Because of his starved state, he could only think of sat-isfying his hunger and used the cross to make the fire. Once he had finished his feast, he died for not having respected the holy cross.

The oral tradition relates that the spirit of the dead shepherd wanders around the island as a light. Some argue that he has come back as an animal and call him the ram or el ovejo, but most of the Majore-ros who claim to have seen him describe a fickle light that jumps about in different places, especially in the south of Antigua and in the Llano de Mafasca, where its name comes from. They also identify him as a ball of light that has accompanied walkers home during their night strolls.

Whether the legend is accurate or not, there are many Majoreros, especially sen-iors, who claim having seen it at night in the countryside of Fuerteventura.


SL®

115


Duration Expected

Highest Point

Lowest Point


Type of Route

3 hrs. 30 min.

688 m

270 m

6,3 km




Effort Required

1

1

2

3


Profile

SL®-FV 31

Tiscamanita

SL®

116

SL®-FV 31

Tiscamanita - Vega de Río Palmas

Map 6

SL®-FV 31 | Tiscamanita - Vega de Río Palmas

Wild olive tree

Trail

SL®

117

You will start this local trail at the crossroads between Calle Juan Peñate and Calle de la Cruz. When you enter the village of Tiscamanita, you will see several examples of the traditional domestic architecture of the island. After the last houses, take the earthern track; it will lead you to a rest area which is a good place to enjoy beautiful views on Tiscamanita, and the gavias and mills that the village shelters. Next, go up by Majada de la Mujer which is covered in prickly pear plantations (Opuntia spp.) and American agaves (Agave americana). If you are careful, you may see ‚dog tooth‘ (Caralluma burchardii) on both sides of the trail, a small endemic species on the eastern islands which nowadays figures in the catalogue of threatened species of the Canaries.

During your ascent, you will also see examples of the wild olive tree locally known as Majorero acebuche (Olea europaea


American windmill

SL®

118

ssp. guanchica), spurges (Euphorbia spp.) and verodes (Klein-ia neriifolia) which are present until Morro Tabaibe. From this promontory, you can make out some mountains that break the vast plain that is the central area of the island. Then keep walk-ing towards Morro Jorjado, named after the endemic species that grows on this promontory, Canary Island daisies (Asteriscus sericeus). Then go towards Degollada de la Pechillera until you reach Morro del Rincón del Atajo, where the route joins the lo-cal trail that comes from Agua de Bueyes (SL-FV 28). The two routes descend together by the Cuesta del Ahorcado down to Calle Pedro Peña. This street goes towards Plaza de Nuestra Señora de la Peña, the patron saint of Fuerteventura.

WatermillsWatermills are another vestige to recall the agricultural

past of the island. This activity was diminished by the increase of tourism during the second half of the 20th century, and nowadays, it is only present in limited areas.

Watermills were used to irrigate agricultural lands. In order to do so, water was extracted from the underground thanks to wind-force and was then stored in ponds near the mills.

The first watermills on Fuerteventura had a wooden structure with cloth-covered blades. They were firstly installed in 1910 and then evolved into metal mills, from America, such as the Aeromotor Chi-cago types. That is where their popular name “chica-gos” comes from.

These technological improvements benefitted alfalfa and tomato produc-tion, especially during the 1930s, when they reached their peak.


Duration Expected

Highest Point

Lowest Point


Type of Route

2 hrs.

416 m

224 m

4 km




Effort Required

1

2

2

2

Forth and Back

Profile

SL®-FV 53

Smooth hills

SL®

119

SL®-FV 53

Cardón - El Tanquito

Map 10

SL®-FV 53 | Cardón - El Tanquito

Jandía mountain range steep relief

El Tanquito chapel

SL®

120

This local trail coincides with the route followed by those devoted to the Virgen del Tanquito who celebrate the pilgrim-age the first Saturday of June, carrying a picture of the virgin from the chapel of Cardón to El Tanquito. This pilgrimage has taken place since the beginning of the 20th century, when the figure of the virgin was distinguished on the rock of a gallery.

You will start your route in the village of Cardón, among gavias and greenhouses, and head towards the Barranco de los Tanques. Next, you will climb between the Mojón and the Cuesta Vieja which are surrounded by sparse vegetation most-ly made up of gorse (Launaea arborescens). Then go towards El Pedregullo until you get to a circle surrounded by stones; this is where believers rest during their pilgrimage to El Tanquito. From this point, the landscape is captivating with its subtle con-trast of rounded slopes in the north and the steep relief of the mountain range of Jandía in the south. You will leave Majada del Huertito on your right, while walking among spurges (Eu-phorbia spp.) and verodes (Kleinia neriifolia) and contemplating the magnitude of the arch of Cofete where it begins, in the Isthmus of La Pared, to where it ends, at Punta Pesebre.

If you go a bit further you will find a gate you have to close be-hind you. This means you are only a few metres from the end of this small itinerary: El Tanquito, a holy place where believers come to ask favours and make promises to the Virgin.


La Pared isthmus covered in jable

SL®

121

Istmo de La Pared (La Pared Isthmus)The peninsula of Jandía is united to the rest of the island

by the isthmus of La Pared, a long, narrow and plain area which links the Macizo de Jandía with the western coast of Fuerteven-tura (Macizo de Betancuria).

This landscape is characterised by the massive presence of jable, i.e. organogenic sands that are moved by the trade winds over which significant caliche crusts have formed.

The jable occupies a considerable expanse where interest-ing plants such as the so-called balancones (Traganum moqui-nii), the Canarian chaparro (Convolvulus caput-medusae), Lotus lancerottensis , commonly named ‘small heart’, and sea-spurge (Euphorbia paralias) have adapted to live in conditions of ex-treme aridness.

Furthermore, it is an area where many steppe birds take refuge: the stone curlew (Burhinus oedicnemus insular-um), the black-bellied sandgrouse (Pterocles orientalis), the cream-coloured courser (Cursorius cursor) and the endemic Canarian houbara (Chlamydotis undulata fuertaventurae), the animal symbol of Fuerteventura.


Tindaya mountain

Glossary

124

Glossary

Aborigine (adjective: aboriginal)A member of the indigenous or earliest known population

of a region; a native.

Alcogida (relating to the Ecomuseum)It is a term that is particular to Fuerteventura which indica-

tes a piece of land that is prepared to collect rain water.

AridnessState that results from the lack of water, caused by the rare-

ness of rainfalls and by the intensity of evaporation due to high temperatures.

BaifoIt is the name Canarians give to kids or goats from birth until

weaning.

Barlovento (windward)Place located on the side that is facing the direction the

wind is blowing from. It is the opposite of Sotavento or leeward.

CadenasStone walls built perpendicular to a slope both to hold back

stones from falling down the sides and for farming lands.

CalicheCalcareous crust that forms on the surface by evaporation in

arid and semi-arid regions. It is used for making lime.

Glossar

125

CuchilloLong and narrow mountain ending in a ridge as a result of

intense erosion.

Degollada (gorge)Depression or narrow passage way between mountains,

where rural trails are extemporaneously outlined.

GaviaCultivation terrace, surrounded by walls, designed to retain

water and soil as much as possible.

GofioProduct obtained from grinding previously toasted cereal

grain. It has been present in the Canarian diet since the olden days.

InflorescenceOrder or way flowers are arranged on plants.

IsthmusNarrow strip of land with sea on either side, forming a link

between two continents or a peninsula and a continent.

JableLand covered with organogenic sand. In Fuerteventura, the

recent jables are made up of eolian sands, that is to say sands that are carried by the wind. The old jables are fixed and cemen-ted with caliche.

Macizo (massif)Compact group of connected mountains that form an inde-

pendent portion of land with very uniform characteristics and clearly-defined limits.

MajadaAlmost flat area located on the two sides of a ravine river-

bed.

Glossar

126

Majo (also known as maxo)The name „Majo“ refers specifically to the aboriginal inhab-

itants of Lanzarote and Fuerteventura before the islands were conquered by the Europeans.

MajoreroFrom Fuerteventura; belonging or relating to the island of

Fuerteventura.

Malpais (karst)Very irregular, rough and sharp-cut surface, in general very

chaotic too, which is produced by „aa“ or scoriaceous lava flows.

MilloIt is the Canarian word for corn. The term comes from the

Portuguese word „milho”.

NateroWall of different height and width made with dry stone,

perpendicular to the ravines or gullies. Its purpose is to gather runoff water and make the land ready to be cultivated

NoriaWaterwheel device used to extract water from wells. It is

composed of two big gear wheels that move thanks to animal traction (camels, donkeys).

OrganogenicOrganic sand mainly composed of remains of sea organis-

ms, although it also includes grains that come from minerals and land organisms.

Picón (lapilli)Volcanic sand, coarse and hard, almost always black, which

covers the fields of Fuerteventura and retains the humidity of scarce rain showers. Mixed with cement and sand, it is used to build walls, floors, etc. On its own, it is used to cover soil in gar-dens.

Succulent PlantPlant that has increased the size of its root, stem and leaves

to stock the largest amount of water possible. This adaptation

Glossar

127

allows these plants to survive in arid and dry environments as they keep their liquid reserves during long periods of time.

Sotavento (leeward)Place protected from the wind. It is the opposite of bar-

lovento or windward.

Tablero (plateau)Vast extension of hard tableland or slightly sloping land.

Trade WindsRegular and moderate winds that come from the Atlan-

tic and Pacific Oceans. They start out warm and dry, but once they cross the oceans, they carry humidity and get cold. In the northern hemisphere, the air circulates from north to south, but due to Earth rotation, trade winds actually blow from north-east to south-east.

Glossar

El Fraile peak in the Jandía mountain range

Location Maps

MAPA 2

MAPA 3

MAPA 11

MAPA 4

MAPA 5

MAPA 6

MAPA 7

MAPA 8

MAPA 9MAPA 10

GR-131 Etapa 1

GR-131 Etapa 2

GR-131 Etapa 2

GR-131 Etapa 3

GR-131 Etapa 3

GR-131 Etapa 4

GR-131 Etapa 5

GR-131 Etapa 5

GR-131 Etapa 6

GR-131 Etapa 6

GR-131 Etapa 6

GR-131 Etapa 7

GR-131 Etapa 7

GR-131 Etapa 8

GR-131 Etapa 9

PR-FV 54PR-FV 55PR-FV 56

SL-FV 2

PR-FV 1

PR-FV 9

PR-FV 15

PR-FV 15

SL-FV 29

SL-FV 27SL-FV 27SL-FV 28

SL-FV 31

SL-FV 53

PR-FV 15.1

130

Location Maps

Map 1General Map

Map 2Stretch 1 | Isla de Lobos

Map 3Stretch 2 | Corralejo - La Oliva

SL-FV 2 | Lajares - Calderón Hondo

Inselkarten

131

Map 4Stretch 3 | La Oliva - Tefía

PR-FV 9 | Tindaya - Vallebrón - Tefía

Map 5Stretch 4 | Tefía - Betancuria

PR-FV 15 | Tetir - Casillas del Ángel - Tefía

PR-FV 15.1 | Tetir - Degollada de Facay - Tefia

Map 6Stretch 5 | Betancuria - Pájara

SL-FV 27 | Vega de Río Palmas - Presa de las Peñitas

SL-FV 28 | Agua de Bueyes - Vega de Río Palmas

SL-FV 29 | Antigua - Betancuria

SL-FV 31 | Tiscamanita - Vega de Río Palmas

Map 7Stretch 6 | Pájara - La Pared


Map 8Stretch 7 | La Pared - Risco del Paso

Map 9Stretch 8 | Risco del Paso - Morro Jable


Map 10Stretch 9 | Morro Jable - Punta de Jandía




Map 11PR®-FV 1| Barranco de la Cañada de Melián - Esquinzo

Inselkarten

Documents

Red de senderos de Fuerteventura (inglés)