RER Brosura Engleski

5/27/2018 RER Brosura Engleski

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THEROMAN

EMPERORSROUTEANDTHEDANUBE

WINEROUTE20 ANCIENT ROMAN SITES + 12 WINE REGIONS IN BULGARIA, CROATIA, ROMANIA, SERBIAMAPS | GPS | ROUTE PLANNING | ACTIVITIES | INFORMATIONROMANS AND DANUBE | TOUR OPERATORS

Co-funded bythe European Union


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3THEROMANEMPERORSROUTEANDTHEDANUBEWINEROUTE

Table of Content

03Explore

the Roman Emperors Routeand the Danube Wine Route

(introductory), Table of Contents, Impressum

04Highlights

of the Roman Emperorsand the Danube Wine Routes

08Romans

along the Danube:Timeline, List of Emperors

11The Danube Limes:

Roman Imperial Navy

on the Danube

13Travel RER and DWR:

One-week Trip along the Routes

16Roman Sites

along the Roman Emperors Routeand the Danube Wine Route

24Wine Regions

along the Roman Emperors Routeand the Danube Wine Route

29What else can I do?

Further activities along Danubewww.danube.travel

31Support services on RER and DWR:

Tour operators, Travel agencies

EXPLORETHEROMANEMPERORSROUTEANDTHEDANUBEWINEROUTELocated in the Middle and Lower Danube Region, the Roman EmperorsRoute (RER) and the Danube Wine Route are part of the European networkof cultural routes. The main objective of the routes, encompassing 20 spotsalong the Roman Emperors Route and 12 wine regions along the banksof the Danube, is the promotion and development of cultural cross-bordertourism in the Danube regions of Bulgaria, Croatia, Romania and Serbia,which contribute profoundly to the European heritage and cultural identi-ty. Visitors will easily discover the great value of the sites along the mostexciting and second longest European river. You can try the overwhelm-ingly beautiful long-distance experience of crossing the entire area fromthe Adriatic Sea to the Danube Delta (the Black Sea), or you can spendyour holidays discovering only parts of the route-its up to you. Whetheryoure hiking, driving, cycling, travelling by boat or train, or combining thelot, the cross-border journey along the ancient Roman Danube Limes willreveal the outstanding natural beauty of the river Danube and hidden his-toric and archeological treasures, still mostly unknown in the western andnorthern Europe. Some of the archeological sites have been discovered,excavated and scientically researched only recently, during the last two

decades. Treasure hunters and collectors will be amazed by the abundanceand quality of evidence of ancient Roman presence in this part of Europe.The best way to explore the long forgotten Roman arts and architecture isto go slowly. Take your time to marvel the breathtaking mountains, valleysand vineyards spread across the rolling hills. Viticulture here is over twothousand years old. The wines produced here were among the best in Eu-rope in the 19th century. Vineyards will keep beckoning you to come andtaste local dishes and wines along the way. Wine tasting is offered in per-fectly restored and modernized wineries, many of them boasting hundredsof years of grape growing tradition. Local and regional food and wine willconvince even the most sceptical gourmets and wine enthusiasts. Today,many internationally recognised grape varieties compete with the tradi-tional ones, which are proudly cultivated as unique symbols of regionalidentity. Red, white, or ros a wide range of products and a growing listof international awards show the ever-bigger efforts of wine makers alongthe Danube Wine Route. Denitely taste the big brands but never forget thesmall, family-run wine cellars-they are an experience in itself!Time is the key ingredient of a successful holiday on these routes. Inter-national, national, regional and local tour operators will happily showyou around, whether you prefer organised group travel or individual, tai-lor-made experience. They will make sure you have all the comfort youneed. Top notch food and brand new accommodation, new roads, bridgesacross the Danube and the friendliest border control ofcers guaranteesmooth travels. Museums, beautiful towns showing off a variety of archi-tecturall styles and nature parks are always worth a stop. If you are stillnot convinced, consider the unbeatable hospitality and friendliness of thelocals living along the routes. So, pack up, come and enjoy our tours andtake home unforgettable memories.

Danube Competence Center (DCC)

ika Ljubina 8/I, 11000 Belgrade, SerbiaPhone: +381 (0)11 655 7116; Fax: +381 (0)11 263 0399Email: [email protected] Web: www.danubecc.org

IMPRESSUMFor publisher: Boris amernik, General SecretaryAuthor: Jrgen SorgesEditor: Danko osiProofreading and editing: Jelena MilieviDesign: Miodrag BogdanoviPhotography: Miodrag mitja Bogdanovi, Stjepan Felber, MislavPavoevi, Archeological Museum of Narona, Vlasta Klari, VaradinskeToplice Heritage Museum, Martin Bahmann, Conrad Cichorius,Dragoljub Zamurovi, TOS Archive, Ministry of Economy and Energy ofthe Republic of Bulgaria, Gica Baestan, Ivan Rous, Romanian NationalAuthority for Tourism, DCC ArchiveEDITOR`S NOTE / Responsibility of content: DCC

Print: Lighthouse, BelgradeCirculation: 2000 1st edition 2013ISBN 978-86-88595-04-9

CIP-

,

634.8(497)(036)

338.48(37)(036)

SORGES,Jrgen

TheRomanEmperorsRouteand theDanube

WineRoute/ [JrgenSorges;photography

MiodragBogdanovi...[etal.].-1sted.-

Belgrade:DanubeCompetenceCenter,2013

(Belgrade: Lighthouse).- 29str.: fotogr.

;30cm

Podatakoautorupreuzetiz kolofona.- Tira

2.000.

ISBN978-86-88595-04-9

a)- -b)

,-

COBISS.SR-ID202658828


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4 5ANDTHEDANUBEWINEROUTETHEROMANEMPERORSROUTE

Colonia PietasIulia Pola PollentiaHerculanea andInsullae PullariaePULAANDBRIJUNIISLAND,CROATIA

Pula has a 3,000-year-old history. It was conqueredby the Romans in 177 BC. Visit the towns land-mark, the amphitheatre(also known as Arena),

built under the rst Emperor Augustus and recon-structed by Emperor Vespasianus. Admire theArch of the Sergii, erected 2927 BC, theTempleof Rome and Augustus, the Roman city walls, theGate of Hercules, the Twin Gates (Porta Gemina),ruins of the Small Roman Theatre and feel the slow

pace of the old city centre adorned with Medievaland Renaissance buildings, the Byzantine chapel ofSt Mary Formosa, St. Francis Church and Pula Ca-thedral. Admire the ancient Roman settlements andvillas of the famous Brijuni Islands, Austro-Hun-garian fortresses and numerous dinosaur foot-printson the island of Veliki Brijun. Observe theora, fauna and sea world ofthe Brijuni NationalPark and have a walk around the island that was aformer summer residence ofJosip Broz Tito.See page 19

Colonia Ulpia TraianaAugusta DacicaSarmizegetusaSARMIZEGETUSA, ROMANIA

Visit the religious and secular monuments inand outside the town walls (500 x 600 metres)of the former Roman regional capital of Dacia.It was established several years after the nalfall of Dacian stronghold Sarmizegetusa Re-gia, some 40 km away. Visit the ArcheologicalMuseum and the exhibition on the rst oor,opened on 18 September 2010 (Trajan`s birth-day). If you get hungry, there are two restau-rants at the entrance to the archeological siteoffering traditional Romanian food.See page 20

Felix RomulianaGamziGrad, zajear, Serbia

UNESCO World Heritage Site. Take a strolland relax in this well preserved and maintained

area. Explore Emperor Galerius palace andadmire his porphyry bust in Zajears Archeo-logical Museum.See page 22

Ilok WineryStari PodrumILOK, CROATIA

Walk through the 15th- and 18th-century winecellars, do the wine tastingand enjoy the fa-mous Traminac white wines, eat out and spendthe night in the new rooms of the old cellarcomplex. Want something more sophisticated?Take a guided tour or cycle to the vineyards,have a glass of wine, dinner and spend the nightat the noble, Italian-style Odescalchi CountryVillaat Ladanjsko imanje Principovac.See page 26

Kale FortressBELOGRADCHIK, BULGARIA

Feel the breeze and enjoy the fantastic panoram-ic views from the Kale fortress, originally built

by the Romans, protected by the massive rocks.Discover the secret tunnel to the downtownmosque. Dont miss the prehistoric drawingsin Magura Cave(25 km away) and relax with

a good glass of sparkling wine at the MaguraCave Winery, one of the top seven wineries inthe Vidin wine region.See page 18

NegotinWine RegionNEGOTIN, SERBIA

Before driving 25 km from Negotin and enjoy-ing a glass of over two-hundred-year old wineat Rajacke Pimniceand Rogljevo Pimnice, thetwin candidates for the UNESCO World Herit-age List, do some sightseeing of Negotin. Thendo the wine tasting in the friendly atmosphere ofRogljevo and have a delicious traditional Ser-

bian meal at Rajacke Pimnice. Stay overnight!See page 28

Pleven Wine Museum5 KMFROMPLEVEN, BULGARIA

The privately rununique wine museum in Bul-garia is situated in an articial cave. It offers a

profound view into Thracian, Greek and Romanwine history and presents all major Bulgarianwines since 1912. After the guided tour, enjoythe wine tasting, relax in the Kaylaka Park andspend the night at the Park Hotel Kaylaka. Visitthe Pleven Regional Museum, Pleven Diorama

and Ulpia Oescus, just 55 km away from Pleven.See page 25

SirmiumSREMSKAMITROVICA, SERBIA

Visit the outstanding Imperial Palace, take aguided tour of the ancient Roman capital (of-ten called the mother of cities) on a guidedcity tour up toon the river Sava, admire gold-en coins of Empress Helena and the Venus ofSremska Mitrovicain the town museum, havea break at the chic coffee shop or at the restau-rant inside the Imperial Palace.See page 23

Spalatum Diocletian`sPalace and SalonaCITYOFSPLIT, CROATIA

Visit the vibrant city of Split with its wide rangeof attractions, starting from the remains of Dio-cletians Palace, built for retirement of the Em-

peror in 305 AD. The Palace and historic cityaround it have been included in UNESCOs reg-ister of World Cultural Heritage in 1979. EnjoyCroatian hospitality, food and wines in tavernsand restaurants, visit the archeological museumand drive 5 km off Split to Solin to visit ruins ofSalona, the Croatian Pompeii, once the capital ofRoman Province of Dalmatia, destroyed in themiddle of the 7th century by Avars and Slavs,today existing as a charming historical hub.

See page 19

Vinju Mare Winery,Oltenia Wine RegionVINJUMARE, ROMANIA

Explore the delicious red wines, especiallythose made from the rare, native grape variety,Feteasca Neagra. Ask for the dry red winePrince Vlad. Treat yourself with the sweet, tra-ditional Tmioas Romneasc white wine(Romanian Muscatel) or have a glass of the ex-traordinary Merlot Ros (it may contain 15.7 %alcohol)! Dont miss the drive to the new vine-yards on the Gipsys Hill, where they expectoutstanding harvests in the forthcoming years.

See page 27

HIGHLIGHTSOFTHEROMANEMPERORSANDTHEDANUBEWINEROUTESRECOMMENDEDBYJRGENSORGES, TRAVELJOURNALISTFROMGERMANY


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ADRIATIC SEA ARCHEOLOGY ARCHITECTURE BERMET BLACK WINE CONSTANTINE THE GREAT CULINARIAN

DELIGHTS CULTURAL HERITAGE DANUBE RIVER GOLD GOURMET EXPERIENCE MARBLE MICROCLIMATE MUSEUMS ROMAN STATUES ROMANTIC CITIES

SENSATIONS, SOIL, SUN TERROIR TRAJAN TREASURES PROMENADES RIVER BANKS FOUR COUNTRIES VINEYARDS

WINE CELLARS WINE TASTINGS WINE ROUTES

ROMANEMPERORSROUTE

DANUBEWINEROUTE

ADRIATIC SEA ARCHEOLOGY ARCHITECTURE BERMET BLACK WINE CONSTANTINE THE GREAT CULINARIAN

DELIGHTS CULTURAL HERITAGE DANUBERIVER GOLD GOURMETEXPERIENCE MARBLE MICROCLIMATE MUSEUMS ROMAN STATUES ROMANTIC CITIES

SENSATIONS, SOIL, SUN TERROIR TRAJAN TREASURESPROMENADES RIVERBANKS FOUR COUNTRIES VINEYARDS

WINE CELLARS WINE TASTINGS WINE ROUTES

THEROMANEMPERORSROUTEANDTHE

DANUBEWINEROUTE


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9ANDTHEDANUBEWINEROUTETHEROMANEMPERORSROUTE8

LISTOF21ILLYRIANROMANEMPERORSCONNECTEDWITHTHEDANUBEREGION,THEROMANEMPERORSANDTHEDANUBEWINEROUTES(249565 AD)Trajan Decius ruled: 249251

Hostilianus ruled in 251

Claudius II Gothicus ruled: 268270(either from Illyricum or Moesia Superior,Thrace)

Quintillus ruled in 270

Aurelian ruled: 270275 (either fromDacia ripensis, Dacia or Illyricum)

Probus ruled: 276282

Diocletian ruled: 284305

Maximianus Herculius ruled: 286305

Galerius ruled: 305311

Constantine I the Great ruled: 306337

Maximinus Daia ruled: 308313

Jovian ruled: 363364

Valentinianus I ruled: 364375

Valens ruled: 364378

Gratian ruled: 375383

Valentinianus II ruled: 375392

Marcianus rule:d 450457 (either fromIllyricum or Moesia, Thrace)

Leo I ruled: 457474

Anastasius I ruled: 491518

Justin I ruled: 518527 (either Thracianor Illyrian, born in Moesia, Thrace)

Justinian I ruled: 527565

THEROMANEMPERORSANDTHEDANUBEWINEROUTESTIMELINE

From 14th c. BC to 1453 AD

Wine14th10thcentury BC:Thracians cultivate winegrapes. Homer mentions a magic Thracian winein his Iliad and Odyssey. One of the oldest winegrapes is Bulgarian Mavrud.Thracians worship the Orphic wine god Za-greus; ancient Greeks identify him with Dio-nysus, Romans with Bacchus. Thracians nevermix wine with other ingredients or water.650250 BC:Greek colonial cities on the coastof the Black Sea use the Danube for navigationand trade as far as the Iron Gates of the Danube,which they could not pass through. The maintrading goods are wine, oil and ceramics.1stcentury BC: Romans adopt this tradition,establish new trading posts, and plant morevineyards.

Roman Republic, First Emperors229228 BC: Roman navy ships cross the Adri-atic Sea. The invasion leads to theFirst IllyrianWar, followed by the second one in 220219 BC.168 BC: Gentius, last king of Illyricum, is de-feated.75 BC:Roman troops reach the Iron Gates of

the Danube.27 BC: Ofcial inauguration of Roman prov-ince Illyria after heavy military campaigns in3533 BCby Octavian, Romes rst emperorAugustus. Romans follow the ancient AdriaticSea Black Sea connection, also mentioned inthe famous myth of Jason and the Argonauts.Roman and Wine Routes follow it, too.129 BC: Pannonian Warsextend the territoryof Illyricum to Istria and the river Sava (Croa-tia). Salona (today: Solin, near Split, Croatia)

becomes capital, Naissus (today: Ni, Serbia)the seat of military command.

1100 AD

69 AD: Great Illyrian Revolt: Romans di-vide the province into Pannonia (north) andDalmatia (south, today: Croatia) in 10 AD.Theterm Illyricum remains. In the late Roman Em-

pire it is used for all Roman Balkan provincesalong the Danube.

8 AD: Roman author Ovid (Publius OvidiusNaso;20 March 43 BC 17 AD) is exiled byAugustus to Tomis (today: Constanta, Roma-nia) and dies there. He is the rst to mentionthe Roman Navy Fleeton the Danube (12 AD).

From 33 AD: Romans build roads, strong-holds and fortresses along the new Danubemilitary border line. Cities of Celtic origin suchas Singidunum (today: Belgrade, Serbia) orNoviodunum (today: near Isaccea, Romania)are fortied. A total of 100 Roman militarysites and settlements have been identiedalong the Danube, from Croatia to the BlackSea (Romania, Bulgaria).

8788 AD:Emperor Domitianleads a militarycampaign against the Dacians (today Romania).Five legions are ambushed and defeated by theDacian king Decebalus (rules: 87106; originalname: Diurpaneus) at Tapae. In 88, the Romansare defeated again at the same location.

End of 1st century AD:Seven Roman legions(1 legion = 6,000 soldiers) control the new

provinces: three in Pannonia, two in Moesia,

two in Dalmatia. The Danube military path con-trols the Danube Limes (Water Limes; today:from Austria to Bulgaria, Romania). Roman

Navy Fleet (Classis Pannonica, Classis Histrica,Classis Moesica) controls the river.

101200 AD

101102: Trajan(Imperator Caesar Nerva Tra-ianus Divi Nervae lius Augustus; 18 Sep 539Aug 117; emperor: 98117) conquers the King-dom of Dacia (today: Romania) in two wars.During the rst military campaign (25 March toMay 101), Trajans troops cross the Danube anddefeat the Dacian army, again at Tapae(today:near the Iron Gates of Transylvania, Romania).Decebalus,also known as the Brave,launch-es counterattacks. Trajan returns and forces himinto a peace deal and to pay tax.

103: Pannonia is split into two provinces: Up-per Pannonia and Lower Pannonia. Sirmium(today: Sremska Mitrovica, Serbia) becomescapital of Lower Pannonia.

103105:Apollodorus of DamascusbuildsTra-jans Bridgeover the Danube. The bridge ruinscan be seen near Drobeta Turnu Severin(Ro-mania) and 4 km away from Kladovo (Serbia).

105106: Roman victory after the siege ofSarmizegetusa (today: Sarmizegetusa Regia,Romania, a UNESCO Word Heritage Site). TheDacian capital is destroyed, Decebalus commitssuicide. In the 20thcentury, he is commemorat-ed with Europes tallest stone sculpture at theIron Gates of the Danube. Trajan builds a newcapital Sarmizegetusa Ulpia Traiana, 40 kmaway from the old one. A memorial plaque, Tab-ula Traiana, commemorates the completion ofTrajans military road at the Iron Gates. Trajancreates a rst tow path and a ship canal, too. Tra-

jans Column(Rome, completed in 113 AD) re-cords the triumph of Trajans campaign in detail.

106109:Colonia Ulpia Oescus(today: villageof Gigen, Bulgaria) becomes one of the biggestRoman settlements along the Lower Danube.

107: Limes Transalutanus is built in what isRomania today. The235 km long borderruns

from south to north, with military strongholds,vallawith wooden palisades. It is extended un-der Iulius Severus (120126) and nished underEmperor Septimius Severus (193211).

108109: Tropaeum Traiani, a Roman me-morial of victory and defeat, is erected in theRoman province of Lower Moesia (today:Adamclisi, Constanta County, Romania). Thestructure, inspired by the mausoleum of Au-gustus in Rome, is inscribed with the namesof 3,000 legionaries and auxiliary soldiers whodied in the battles of Tropae. The monument isrestored in 1977. Archeological artefacts aredisplayed in the nearby museum.

117138:Emperor Hadrian (Publius AeliusTraianus Hadrianus Augustus; 24 Jan 7610July 138; emperor: 117138), successor andearlier legate of a legion and the governor ofUpper Pannonia (today: partly Croatia), ordersthe dismantling of Trajans Bridge to protectthe Empire from invasions.He consolidates theDanube Limes with outposts, watchtowers andfortications. Roman Empire reaches its peak.Hadrian orders the assassination of Apollodorus

of Damascus (65130) after a disagreementover architectural designs. The bust of the ar-chitect can be admired in front of the RegionalMuseum in Drobeta Turnu Severin (Romania).

138161:Time for good wine! During the reignof Antoninus Pius (Titus Fulvius Aelius Had-rianus Antoninus Augustus Pius; 19 Sep 867March 161; Roman Emperor 138161), peopleenjoy the most peaceful years in a long time.There are some troubles in Dacia, but no majorwars. Antoninus invests in culture, theatres, sci-ence and mausoleums. People go to feasts ( con-viviums) and enjoy great food and wine.

161180: Marcus Aurelius (Marcus AureliusAntoninus Augustus; 26 Apr 12117 March 180;Roman emperor: 161180, rules with co-emper-or Lucius Verus 161169 and with Commodus177March 180), a philosopher on the throne,favours stoicism. Unfortunately, he has to ghtin Parthia and along the Danube to defend the

provinces of Upper and Lower Pannonia (today:partly Croatia, Serbia) and Dacia (today: Roma-nia) against the Germanic tribes of Marcomanni,who cross the Danube for the rst time in 166.Twelve legions are ordered to protect the Dan-ube Water Limes: four in Pannonia, four inMoesia, two in Dacia, only one in Noricum andone in Raetia. Like Hadrian and Antoninus Pius,

he was no friend of the Christians.

180192: Commodus (Marcus Aurelius Com-modus Antoninus Augustus; 31 Aug 16131Dec 192; Roman emperor: 180192, co-emperor177180), son of Marcus Aurelius, born in pur-

ple and assassinated in 192, is one of the mostimportant emperors. Still a boy, he gets the hon-orary title Germanicus at Carnuntum (today: nearVienna, Austria), during the Marcomannic wars(172). In 178 he is on the Danube front, whereMarcus Aurelius dies. In the forthcoming years,the decline of the Empire starts. In 183, he onceagain ghts in Dacia (today: Romania). In hislate years, Commodus suffers from megaloma-nia, thinking he is Hercules or a new Romulus.Having faught as a gladiator every day, he isnally poisoned and strangled in his bath by awrestling partner. The Roman Senate damns himto oblivion (Damnatio memoriae).

201300 AD

193235: Emperor Septimius Severus (Lu-cius Septimius Severus Augustus; 11 Apr 1454 Feb 211; Roman emperor: 193211; co-em-

peror with Caracalla (198 209), and withCaracalla and Geta (209211) starts returningthe strength, power and glory to the Roman Em-

pire, but ends in political turmoil and crisis.

212:Emperor Caracalla Caracalla, the eldest sonof Septimius Severus (rules: 198217), assassi-nates brother Geta (rules: 209211) and grantsfull Roman citizenshipto all free people of the

provinces. On 8 April 217, Caracalla is assassi-nated by order of Macrinus (rules: 217218).

244247: Limes Transalutanus (Romania) isleft under Emperor Philip the Arab, after theGoattacks by the Goths.

249251:Bad luck on the Danube. EmperorTrajan Decius (Gaius Messius Quintus Tra-ianus Decius; ca. 190 or 200/201June 251;Roman Emperor: 249251), born in Budalianear Sirmium (today: Sremska Mitrovica, Ser-

bia), losses his son Herennius in a battle againstthe Goths in Lower Moesia (today: near Plov-div, Bulgaria). In 251, his own life ends on the

battleeld at Aribus (today: Razgrad, Bulgaria).Trajan Decius is the rst in the long line ofeighteen Roman emperors born in Illyricum.The other emperors born in Illyricum (beforeConstantine the Great)are Hostilianus(251),Claudius II Gothicus(268270), Quintillus (270), Aurelian (270275), Probus(276282),Diocletian(284305), Maximianus Herculius(286305), and Galerius (305311). The lastone builds a palace in Felix Romuliana(today:Gamzigrad near Zajear, Serbia).

271:Emperor Aurelian nally decides to leaveDacia, north of the Danube (today: Romania).Provinces Dacia Ripensis (south of the Dan-ube), Moesia and Scythia (up to the DanubeDelta) remain.

27 Feb ca. 272 (or 270280):Flavius ValeriusAurelius Constantinus (Augustus) is born inNaissus (today: Ni, Serbia). He will be Romanemperor (306337; ruling alone from 324) Con-stantine I the Great, aka Saint Constantine.Mother Helena (246/250 18thof Aug. 330)is of common background, according to arch-

bishop Aurelius Ambrosius of Milan (SaintAmbrose, 340 4thof April, 397 AD) a buonastabularia, well behaving/doing hostel host-ess or inn-keeper. She is consort of EmperorConstantius Chlorus and Empress until her

politically enforced divorce (289 AD).Father Flavius Valerius Constantius (31st ofMarch, 250 25thof July, 306) is a noble Ro-man military ofcer from Moesia Superior(area today: Northern Macedonia, SouthernSerbia, Northern Bulgaria, Dobrudja/Romania,Southern Moldova).

276282:Emperor Marcus Aurelius Probus(19 Aug 232Sep/Oct 282) strengthens theDanube frontier against Germanic tribes andtriumphs against the invading Goths along theLower Danube (277), earning himself the hon-orary title of Gothicus Maximus.He establishes wine growing around his birth

place Sirmium (today: Sremska Mitrovica,Serbia), planting the rst vineyards onFrukaGora(Serbia). Unfortunately, Probus is assassi-

nated in Sirmium by his soldiers. They may nothave been willing to work in agriculture.

286:Emperor Diocletian(ca. 22 Dec 2443 Dec311; Roman Emperor 284305) divides the Ro-man Empire into the Western and Eastern parts,ruling the east. The west goes to Emperor Max-imian (250July 310), who rules until 305, andagain 306308. He built the most signicant pal -aces that demonstrate the best of old Roman ar-chitecture on the eastern side of the Adriatic Sea.293: Diocletian establishestheTetrarchy.Fla-vius Valerius Constantinusbecomes co-em-

peror (Caesar) by formal adoption and is knownasConstantius Chlorus.

294:Sirmium(today: Sremska Mitrovica, Ser-bia) becomes one of the capitals, the gloriousmother of the cities, of the Tetrarchy. Ten RomanEmperors are born in or near the city: HerenniusEtruscus(251), Hostilian(251), Decius Traian(249251), Claudius II (268270), Quintillus(270), Aurelian (270275), Probus (276282),Maximian(286305), Constantius II(337361),and Gratian(367383). The last emperor of the

reunited Roman Empire, Theodosius I (378395),is proclaimed emperor in Sirmium. As well, theusurpers Ingenuus and Regalianus declared them-selves emperors in this city (in 260).

301400 AD

25 July 305306: Constantine I (the Great)takes over the power.

311:Emperor Galerius(around 260Apr/May311, Roman Emperor 305311) launches anearly edict of toleration concerning Christiansin Ulpia Serdica (today: Soa, Bulgaria), whichis proclaimed in Nicomedia (today: Izmir, Tur-key).

29 Oct 312:In hoc signo vinces! ConstantineI beats his rebellious co-emperor Maxentius atthe Milvian Bridge, outside Rome. Eusebiusdescribes the Christian sign in battle as Chi ()and Rho ():

Feb 313:Edict of Milan Emperor Constan-tine I, ruling the West, and co-emperor Licini-us, ruling Balkans and the East, meet in Milanand agree to treat the Christians well.

8 Oct 314:Constantine I wins the battle of Ci-balae(today: Vinkovci, Croatia) against co-em-

peror Licinius (263325, emperor: 308324).

18 Sep 324: Battle of Chrysopolis; Licinius,co-author of the Edict of Milan, is defeated byConstantine I and executed (325). Constantine Iends the Tetrarchy and rules alone.

322: To ght the Goths, Constantine I builds theearthworks of LimesSarmatiae (today:Dev-ils Dykes, stretching through Hungary, Roma-nia, Serbia), using an earlier defence system ofMarcus Aurelius during the Marcomannic Wars.In 322, the Constantines Wall (today:Brazdalui Novac, visible today in Ploieti, Romania)is built beyond the Danube and runs south fromtodays Drobeta Turnu Severinto the east.326: Constantine I orders the assassinationof his eldest son Crispus(305? 326) and his


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The Romans decided early to use the Danube asa natural barrier, frontier and a border. In addi-tion, the Danube waters saved lots of energy andmoney. The Germanic Limes (Limes Germani-cus) ended near the city of Regensburg (Germa-ny) on the left (northern) bank of the Danube,

protecting the Roman provinces of GermaniaInferior and Raetia. The Danube was to becomethe water limes for the provinces further east:

Noricum, Pannonia, Moesia and Scythia to theDanube Delta. These new Danube Limes, orRipa Danuvii, became the longest and biggeststructure ever built in Europe. Efforts are now

being made to get the ruins of the Danube Limeson the UNESCO World Heritage List. It was pro-tected by the limes road, a typical military roadalong the southern bank of the river, most of it

built under Domitian and Trajan but nally com-pleted under Emperor Caracalla. The early Ro-man military camps on the river bank were builtall the way to the cities, and fortied and walledstrongholds and fortresses (castra) were estab-lished. Today, more than one hundred Romansettlements along the Danube have been identi-ed. They were added numerous watch towersand signal posts, built within just 2 km. Howe ver,it was the Imperial Roman Navy that had thereal control over this water border with the un-known, undiscovered areas: marine superpower,consisting during Emperor Diocletian of 64,000men. Part of it became the famous Danube Fleet(Classis Histria)-the earliest records of it go

back to 20 BC10 AD. The eet was divided intothree parts: Classis Germanica, Classis Pannoni-ca, and Classis Moesica.The Pannonian Fleet (Classis Pannonica)operated from its headquarters in Carnuntum(today: east of Vienna, Austria) and Tauronum(today: Zemun, municipality of Belgrade, Ser-

bia) near Singidunum (Belgrade), where the 4thRoman legion was based. The most threatenedwas the Lower Danube with more than 1,000km to be defended. This longest part of the waterlimes was at rst defended by two legions, andunder Emperor Marcus Aurelius by four legions.

This section of the Danube was where the Fla-vian Fleet of Moesia(Classis Flavia Moesica)was established and operated from 20 BC to 10AD. It covered not only the river from the IronGates up to the Danube Delta, but also along thenorthern coast of the Black Sea up to the Crimea(from 41 AD). Flavia, the honorary title, wasalso given to the Pannonian Fleet in 75 AD byEmperor Vespasian. Its headquarters were origi-nally at Novidunum(literary: new fortied set-tlement on the Danube, today: Isaccea, TulceaCounty, Dobruja, Romania). In 85 AD, Domitianmoved the headquarters to Sexaginta Prista,thecity of sixty ships (today: Ruse, Bulgaria).This naval centre, established by Vespasian inlate 69 and early 70 AD, was rebuilt and heav-ily fortied around 250 AD, after the attacks bythe Goths, and destroyed in the 6thcentury by theAvars and Slavic tribes. Other important anchorsof this eet were at Novae(today: 4 km east ofSvishtov, Bulgaria), Ulpia Oescus(today: 55 kmnorthwest of Pleven, Bulgaria) and Tomi(today:Constanta, Romania).The main role of the Danube Fleet which, inaddition to the headquarters had over two doz-en ports, marinas and wharfs along the Dan-ube making it a great economic factor was toguarantee Roman peace (Pax Romana)through

border control. It also played a big role in thelogistics for the legions, transporting food, weap-ons and troops. Finally, as was the case duringTrajans campaigns against the Dacians, they hadto support and help the legions during the war.These disciplined marines of the Classis Histriahad an ambitious plan: each kilometre (or rath-er, Roman mile) of the river had to be checkedout once a day. This Herculean work functioned

perfectly until 350 AD. Even during the rule ofMarcus Aurelius, who had to ght Marcomannicwars several times along the Danube (from 166AD). The Imperial Roman Navy also crossed theDanube to the north. It defended bridgeheadsand toeholds along the northern banks, inspect-ed buffer zones and helped the legions to protectnew lime earth walls in province of Dacia.

Rowing, Rowing, Rowing -The Ships of the Roman Naval Fleet

The Danube eet consisted of a great variety ofvessels. The most common one was navislibur-na, a small galley, used for patrols, raids andattacks. It was similar to the ancient Greek ship

penteconterwith 25 oars on each side, a mast anda sail. It could reach a maximum speed of 9 knots(18 km/h). It had a rostrum(naval ram)to enterandsink ships in battles. Armed with two banksof oars, a biremewas 24 metres long and up to3 metres tall. This type of galley had 120 rowers.Armed with three banks of oars, a triremehad170 rowers and a deck crew of 30 men. This wasa common war ship in the Mediterranean, ableto cross up to 120 km a day. The Imperial Navyused even larger vessels: quadriremesand quin-queremes, and even bigger agships for com-manders. These vessels were heavily equippedwith ballistae (missile weapons that launched

projectiles at distant targets) and catapults.The favourite of the Romans sailing the Danube(and ancient ship spotters) was this small mili-tary vessel thespeedy navis lusoria(danc-ing or playful ship). It was perfect for patrols,

raids and transport of the troops. It had 30 oars-men and an auxiliary sail. Just 21 x 2.8 metres,it could navigate even the less deep tributariesof the Danube. These dancing queens sailedand ruled the Danube waves and were good forghting. Emperor Theodosius maintained 90lusoriae; in 412, 110 of them were used in thewar. Students at the University of Regensburg(Germany) proved its mobility with a replicanamed Regina in 2006. They sailed down toBudapest, covering 100 km a day.Roman navy ships were often decorated with a g -urehead (parasemum) and were named after gods(Mars), mythological heroes, (Hercules), geograph-ical maritime features (Oceanus), concept names(Concordia,Pax, Victoria) or after important mili-tary events (e.g. Dacicus, to honour the memory ofTrajans successes in the Dacian Wars).

Sailing the Danube,Protecting the Territories

The Romans used pontoon ships for quicktransfers of troops from one bank of the Dan-ube to the other. They used naves cursoriaefor the transport of mail and navesiuridicaforofcial VIP visits from Rome. The most com-mon ones were navesagrariensis, used for thetransport of foodstuffs, and naves actuariae,shallow-draught vessels with 30 oars.The navy, of course, protected freight ships andrafts cruising the Danube. These were some-times moved along the newly installed tow

paths. Salt and iron from Noricum, cattle, food-stuffs, cereals, ceramics, gold (from Dacia),wine and olive oil from the Balkan provinceswere traded between the East and the West,to and from Rome, and from the North to the

wife, Flavia Maxima Fausta (ca. 289 298until 326; daughter of Emperor Maximian).Distant relatives will be killed later on.326328: Helena (Saint Helena), the motherof Emperor Constantine the Great, travels to theholy places in Palestine and discovers the relicsof the True (Holy) Cross.

5 July 328: Constantine the Great attends theofcial opening of the new Danube stone bridgeconnecting Ulpia Oescus (55 km northwest ofPleven, Bulgaria) and Sucidava (today. Celei,Romania). Constantines Bridge is in use justfor 40 years, due to the fear of invasions.Constantine I calls his imperial palace in the cityof Serdica (today: Soa, Bulgaria) my Rome.

324330: Constantine is thinking of makingSirmium (today: Sremska Mitrovica, Serbia)the new capital city of the Eastern Roman Em-

pire, but changes his mind. He chooses Byz-antium instead, naming it Constantinopolis(Constantinople). After six years of work, thecity consecration day is on 11 May 330. Thisdecision starts a Christian period (Eastern Or-

thodoxy) in the provinces as well, until the nalfall of Constantinople in 1453.

22 May 337: Constantine the Great dies nearNicomedia. Shortly before his death he is bap-tized. Nevertheless, he is nominated Divusaswell, following the old Roman tradition of di-vine consecrations of Roman emperors.

Until 363:Rule of the Constantinian Dynas-ty continues through Constantine and Faustassons Constantine II(337340), ConstantiusII(337361) and Constans (337350). Their

private residences are in Mediana (today: 5 kmaway from Ni, Serbia).

351:Battle of Mursa Major (today: near Osi-jek, Croatia); Constantine II ghts against theusurper of the Western Empire, Magnentius. Oneof the most crucial battles in Roman history, over55,000 soldiers die, two thirds of the troops ofMagnentius (25,000), and half of the army ofConstantine II (30,000), who wins the battle.

361:Julian (Flavius Claudius Julianus Augus-tus;331/33226 June 363) takes over. Knownas Julian the Apostateor Julian the Philos-opher, he is the Caesar of the Western Empirefrom 355 and acclaimed Augustus after an up-rising in Lutetia (today: Paris, France) by his

soldiers (360). In 361, he travelled the entireDanube course from Viana (today: Ulm, Ger-many) to Sirmium to ght Constantius II.

363364: After the sudden death of Julian in theSassanid War, Jovian(Flavius Jovianus Augus-tus;331 17 Feb 364) is proclaimed emperor

by the soldiers. The former commander of theimperial bodyguards was born in Singidunum(today: Belgrade, Serbia). During his short rule,he re-evokes the edicts of Julian and re-estab-lishes Christianity as state religion. He dies inhis bed in a tent, very likely from the poisonouscarbon monoxide from the warming re.

364375: Emperor Valentinian I (32117Nov 375), born in Colonia Aurelia Cibalae inPannonia Secunda (today: Vinkovci in Vuk-ovar-Syrmia County, Croatia), is the last Ro-man emperor to carry out military campaignson both banks of the Danube. With his brother

and co-emperor Valens, Valentinian forties thesettlements along the Danube.

375376:Having been beaten by the invadingHuns, the Goths cross the Danube at Durosto-rum (today: Silistra, Bulgaria) and invade Ro-man provinces.

9 Aug 378:Battle of Adrianople(today: 13 kmnorth of Edirne, Turkey).Emperor Valens (328378) is defeated by the Visigoths and loosesmore than 20,000 soldiers. The battle is part ofthe Gothic War (376382), which initiates thecollapse of the Western Roman Empire.

Until 395:Emperor Theodosius I(Flavius The-odosius Augustus; 11 Jan 34717 Jan 395), alsoTheodosius the Great (379395), allows theGoths to settle south of the Danube in Illyria.In 391, he declares Christianity the ofcial statereligion. He is the last emperor to rule both theWest and the East, before dividing it: Raetia, No-ricum, and Pannonia belong to the West, Moesia,Dacia, Thracia and Scythia belong to Constan-tinople. Greek becomes the ofcial language ofthe Constantinople court and in the 5 th century

for Christians as well. In 7th

century, Greek is theofcial language of the Eastern Empire.

4011453

410: Rome is sacked by Visigoths, under thecommand of Alaric I.

400412:Uldin, chieftain of the Huns, appearson the Danube and attacks Thrace with thou-sands of Germanic allies. After being an ally tothe Western Roman Magister Militium (leadingmilitary general) Stilicho against the Goths, hetries to overrun the Roman Province of Moesiain 408 but is pushed back north of the Danube.The Eastern emperor Theodosius II (408450)improves the Roman eet on the Eastern Dan-ube which successfully controls the Roman

border (Danube Limes). Uldin dies in 412, theHuns divide into three major groups.

441:Big parts of the Danube provinces fall un-der the Huns. King Attila (434453) reigns inPannonia (today: Hungary).

470:Goths nally leave Pannonia, GermanicLombards arrive.

476:Having moved to the Balkans in search ofnew settlements, Germanic tribes overrun and

destroy the Western Roman Empire. The emper-ors move to the new capital, the city of Ravenna.

515:While Illyrian bishops withdrew from Romein the 5thcentury, forty Illyrian bishops from theWestern Balkans declare their renewed loyalty toRome and the Catholic Church a milestone inthe forthcoming Christian history of the Balkans.

Until 565:Eastern Roman (Byzantine) Emper-orJustinian I(Flavius Petrus Sabbatius Justin-ianus Augustus; ca. 48214 Nov 565; emper-or: 527565), tries to re-establish the WesternRoman Empire and succeeds, but only partly.Known as Justinian the Great, he is the lastemperor to speak Latin as a rst language. Heis the last to fortify the Danube Limes, especial-ly Singidunum (today: Belgrade, Serbia), andViminacium (today: near Kostolac, Serbia).A bubonic plague ends all revival. The BlackDeath of 541542 sweeps the Balkans and

spreads all the way up to Scandinavia and Ire-land. It is one of the greatest in history (25 mil-lion people die worldwide).

567:Lombards leave Pannonia in fear of Avarsand settle in todays Northern Italy.

579582: Battle of Sirmium (today: SremskaMitrovica, Serbia). Avars besiege the fortiedcity and win. In forthcoming years, they conquestand plunder all Eastern Roman settlements alongthe Danube to Tomis (today: Costanta, Romania)assisted by their new allies (Slavic tribes).

593595:The Danube cities are re-conquered forthe Eastern Roman Empire by general Priskos,who has his headquarters in Singidunum (today:Belgrade, Serbia). Successful peace talks on theDanube island of Singa (near Vina, the IronGates of the Danube). Peace in 598.

599602: Emperor Maurikios of Constan-tinople crosses the Danube at Viminacium (to-day: near Kostolac, Serbia) to ght the Avars,

but does not succeed and is assassinated. TheDanube Limes and Roman power (Orbis Ro-

manus) come to their end.750: Another disastrous plague epidemicemerges. It is the last one. There will be no more

plague in the Byzantine Empire and the Balkansuntil 14thcentury.

6th to 9th century:Following the Avars(theywere called Avars in respect of their longhair), Slavic tribes and Bulgars enter from

North Eastern Europe the Balkans regions.A strong sign of this period are the relics ofthe so called Trajans Wall (Valul lui Traianin Romania), three main linear earth fortica-tions (valla) found in Moldova, Romania, andUkraine. Contrary to the name Romans andespecially Emperor Trajan are not responsiblefor these fortications, which protected theland between the Danube and the Black Seafrom invasions. TheSmall Earthen Dyke (61km long), extends from Cetatea Ptulului onthe Danube to Constana. The second vallum,the Large Earth Dyke (54 km long), starts onDanube, follows the Carasu Valley and ends atPalas, west of Constana. The third, theStoneDyke, is made of earth, but has a stone wall onits crest (59 km long) and extends from south ofAxiopolis to the Black Sea coast (all Romania).

29 May 1453: Ottomans besiege Constantino-

ple and end the Eastern Roman Empire.

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Discoveries between the Iron GatesAlong the Romanian national road DN68 doz-ens of uttering ags indicate that you have ar-rived. They have a brand new blue and whitelogo of the Roman Emperors and the DanubeWine routes, turning the main road of a tiny Ro-manian village of Sarmizegetusa into a history

promenade. Here, in Hateg County, 8 km fromthe famous Iron Gates of Transylvania and160 km north of the Danube, there is a muse-um with a monumental name: Colonia UlpiaTraiana Augusta Dacica Sarmizegetusa. Itsdirector, Dr Gic Bestean laughs indeed, Co-lonia Ulpia Traiana Augusta Dacica Sarmize-getusa is hard to memorise. Yet, not everythingabout this place is complicated and thanks toMr Besteans detailed explanations in perfectEnglish the one-hour tour becomes an experi-ence in itself. The tour starts at the entrance ofthe archaeological site just opposite the restoredmunicipal building. While strolling across thegrounds of the ancient amphitheatre, passing bythe ruins of the temple and the foundations ofPraetorium Procuratoris where some 1,900years ago Roman ofcials made decisions onthe welfare of Roman cities and colonies, onecant help but notice that Roman history can beentertaining. Dont expect lists of dates and g -ures on this tour. Expect to hear stories abouta daily Roman life, mixed with humour. Youmay also talk to the archaeologists working onthe site. Mr Bestean introduces the visitors tothe scientists of Cluj University, who have beenexcavating at the former Northern Gate of Ro-man Sarmizegetusa since 2013. You can alsosee the marble Forum, where an oven hole stillindicates where the 19th century villagers burntmarble to paint their houses. Mouth-wateringtraditional dishes are offered in the two restau-rants at the entrance/exit, but there is still theArchaeological Museum to see, just 150 me-tres away. There, on the rst oor, Dr Besteanopened an interesting exhibition in 2010. Basedon experimental archaeology, it displays giantreplicas of Roman soldiers, in full gear. Thereis Roman jewellery and pottery, Roman tools,models of reconstructed archaeological sites,and for kids, an ancient money box and two Ro-man dices, one irregularly shaped, most proba-

bly to play tricks on a naive legionnaire. Glass-

ware exhibits prove that there used to be at leasttwo Roman glassblowing workshops on thislocation. Finally, there is a turibulum, a vesselfor burning incense. Dont leave without one ofthe three new English language brochures andSarmizegetusawill stay in your mind for ever.A tongue twister will be your new evergreen.On the way to the Danube, stop at one of therestored village churches along the road. Theirfacades are often decorated with frescoes. Theone in Bautar, 8 km outside Sarmizegetusa, isdedicated to St Elijah and is absolutely wonder-ful. Before crossing the Danube, relax at BaileHerculane, the old Austro-Hungarian HerculesBaths (Herkulesbad). Follow the signs to thestatue of Hercules on Hercules Square in theold town. The Hotel Ferdinand is right theretoo, great for the lovers of ne wining and din-ing. Walk around and youll nd the spas theRomans used 2,000 years ago. Have a walk bythe Hercules bas-reliefsand see the ruins of theRoman aqueduct on the river bank.

Waltzing the Danube,Introducing Prince Vlad

On the way to the vibrant town Drobeta TurnuSeverinwith its lovely Danube harbour, checkout the restored theatre and dont miss the ex-citing water-play fountain(it starts at 9 a.m.).You should also have a look at Orsova. This isthe departure point for boats taking tourists onexcursions to the Iron Gates of the Danube.Admire the world famous Tabula Traianaandthe incredible Decebal monument, the biggest

of its kind in Europe. You can also see it fromthe Kladovo side of the Danube, after visitingRoman Diana fortress. The Continental Hotelin Drobeta also organises the Danube cruises(cost in 2013: 8 per person; info: [email protected]). Whichever wayyou decide to do it, waltzing the Danube at thespectacular Iron Gates is a must!Another must is the Drobeta Regional Muse-um (2013: in reconstruction), where there isalso a new Archaeological Park. Visit the ruinsof the medieval church and Trajans Bridge,designed by Apollodorus of Damascus and

built in 102105. You can see the bust of thearchitect in the park.Time permitting, step into the Orthodox StGeorges Church, located at the top end of Inde-

pendence Road. Better yet, check out the VinjuMare Winery,just 25 km northwest of Drobe-ta. Once in thevillage, follow the signposts toCrama (wine cellar) Vinju Mare and makesure to do the wine tasting (6090 minutes).Treat yourself to the dry red wine Prince VladFeteasc Neagr (Black Feteasca) GrandReserve 2011, it comes with the formidable14 % alcohol. Only 10,000 bottles of this rarewine are sold a year, and it deserves a specialCheers! (or Norok! in Romanian). The dryMerlot Ros(13.5 %) is outstanding too. It wasawarded a gold medal at Cannes, France, in

2012. Brochures in English are available. AskAdriana Strecheor Daniel Alexandru for ashort excursion to the vineyards, especially therecently planted Gypsies Hill.

Of Mammoths and Men

A revedere Romania! After crossing the Dan-ube and a quick passport check, you arrive in

Negotin, Serbia. Explore its Holy Trinity Cathe-dral (1876), the equestrian monument and theMuseum of Hajduk Veljko, the ethnographiccollection of the Museum of Krajina, the birth

place of the famous Serbian composer StefanMokranjac, the Church of the Holy Mother ofGod (1803) and local monasteries. Pay tributeto Bacchus and visit Matalj Vinarija for somewine tasting. The Municipality of Negotin wasalso a home to the Romans. In a Roman set-tlement and a mausoleum (293311) of Vreloarkamen archaeologists unearthed (1996)

South. Sirmium (today: Sremska Mitrovica,Serbia), on the banks of the Sava, was not onlythe capital of the province and the Empire butalso a trading focal point where the North, theSouth, the West and the East met.

Navy marines spent their pay in the civilianparts of naval city bases, the cabanae(namedafter simple pubs and brothels for soldiers), in-creasing the total economic turnover. After theirmilitary service was completed, they settledalong the Danube.

Sailing through Migrations -The End of the Naval Power

There were some wooden bridges but there

were only two stone bridges on the Lower Dan-ube: Trajans Bridge and Constantines Bridge.Both were dismantled soon after opening in fearof invasions from north and northeast. AuthorJordanes called these areas, i.e.. the atlands ofPannonia that were difcult to defend, vaginagentium (the womb of all nations) in hismajor work Getica (551 AD), a description ofthe early history of the Goths.It all started when Germanic tribes and Goths

beat Roman ships in two attacks around 256AD. One took place on the Danube. They builttheir own eet, raided the cities all the waydown to Athens and attacked the Danube eet.The next shock came in 267270, with an even

bigger invasion. According to the historian Au-gusta, in late 268 and early 269 more than 2,000ships with 325,000 men landed on the Thracianshores of the Black Sea to conquer the RomanBalkan provinces. The rst big migration couldonly be stopped by Emperor Claudius II, whodefeated the invaders in the Battle of Naissus(today: Ni, Serbia).Among other things, this led to the nal fall ofthe province of Dacia in 271. In addition, allfortied places along the Danube shrank in size.Fewer inhabitants concentrated in the walled cityareas. In some cases, cities were reduced to theiramphitheatres, which were turned into fortiedcastles and last strongholds of Roman defenders.

Classis Moesica remained in function until thestart of the 5thcentury, when the eet was inte -grated in the Byzantine Navy of Constantinople.In the Western Roman Empire, which fell in 476AD, there was no longer an active navy eet.People had to wait until the 19thcentury for an-other eet similar to that of the ancient Romaneets. It was the Austro-Hungarian Donaudamp-

fschifffahrtsgesellschaft. The dancing shipswere spotted again on the Danube in the 20 thcentury but this time they were carrying tourists.

The boat of the ancient James BondThe ancient Roman navy used very smallrowing boats for the transport of specialmail and for secret service activities on theDanube. These spy boats, dubbed musculi(little mice), caused considerable stress tothe enemies. They seemed to be as effectiveas the proverbial y on the wall there is norecord of any of them ever being captured.

INTHEHEARTLANDSOFTHEROUTE:

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Amphitheatre Colonia Pietas IuliaPola (Pula) and Insullae Pullariae(Brijuni Islands), Croatia

Pula (population: 57,800) got its name from aVenetic or Illyrian tribe Histri, who settled here

before the Romans.Pola, as it was called by theRomans, became an ofcial colony in 46-45 BC,with the population of 30,000. It became a centreof wine production, shing, shipbuilding and amajor port for all trade with Roman provincesalong the Lower Danube. Pulas triumphal Archof the Sergii(29 27 BC) was built in memory ofLucius Sergius Lepidus, a tribune in the 29thLe-gion and a participant in the sea battle of Actiumthat made Octavian the rst emperor Augustus.

The Pula Arena,the citys great amphitheatre(27 BC68 AD), is the symbol of Pula. Gladiatorsfought here in front of up to 20,000 spectators untilthe start of the 5thcentury. Today, it is a venue foropen-air summer performances.In the subterrane-an section, the exhibition Viticulture and OliveOil Production in Istria during the Roman Pe-riodshows the importance of the top quality oliveoil and wine production since Roman times.The Cathedralof the Assumption of the Bless-ed Virgin Maryhas Roman roots of worship atemple of Jupiter used to be here. The rst Chris -tian churches were built on this site in the 4th5thcentury. Pula had ten city gates, including theGate of Hercules(1stcentury AD) and the TwinGates (Porta Gemina) (mid-2ndcentury AD).When in Pula, take a stroll around the attractiveold city quarter, explore the Byzantine Chapelof St Mary Formosa(6thcentury AD) and thecastle with four bastions.The best preserved is the once richly decoratedRoman villa rustica(1stcentury BC), stretchingone kilometre along the Verige bay, on the islandof Veli Brijun, the largest island of the BrijuniArchipelago. The Brijuni National Park consistsof 14 islands, home to many animal and plantspecies. Visit the island of Veli Brijun, enjoy thesafari park (zebras, Somali sheep, zebus, and anelephant) and explore the island that was once a

presidential residence of Josip Broz Tito (1892-

1980), the former president of Yugoslavia.Location:Istria peninsula;GPS N 4452`26.81 E 1350`59.72 (Pula);

N 4454`35.15 E 1346`27.46 (Brijuni Islands)Information:Pula Tourist Board (Info Point), Forum 3, 52100Pula, Tel. +385 52 219197, www.pulainfo.hrOpening hours: daily 8.00-22.00 (summer),9.00-16.00 (winter)National Park Brijuni, Brionska 10, 52212 Faa-na, Croatia, Tel. +385 52 525882, 525888, Fax+385 52 521124, 521367, www.brijuni.hr/en/Pula Arena,Flavijevska bb, 52100 Pula,Tel.+385 52 219028,www.ami-pula.hr/en/collections-on-other-loca-tions/amphitheater/amphitheater/Opening hours:daily 25thof Act-31stof March9.00-17.00, Apr 8.00-20.00, May, Sep 8.00-21.00,June 8.00-21.30, July/Aug 8.00-24.00, 1stof Oct-24thof Oct 9.00-19.00

Diocletians Palace in Split andSalona (Croatia)

Splitwas built around the Roman palace of Em-peror Diocletian (293305 AD), a UNESCOWorld Heritage Site. The city was named afterthe spiny broom, a shrub common in the area.Diocletian (ruled: 2841 May 305) commis-sioned a palace for his retirement and lived init until he died. The massive structure (38,000m) faced the sea on the southern side and wassupported by an aqueduct that supplied waterfor the emperor and up to 10,000 people livingin the palace and its surroundings.Visitors enter through the Brass Gate, the an-

cient Porta Meridionalis, the gateway to theharbour. Today, you can watch the changingof the guard, when Emperor Diocletian ap-pears with six Roman guards and greets themasses at Peristyle (JuneSep, daily, 10.0021.00; the guard changes at 12.00). Peristylewas designed for worshiping the cult of the liv-ing son of Jupiter. Dressed in purple, Diocletianwould appear at the entrance to Vestibule, whichwas rectangular outside and oval inside and dec-orated with mosaics. The cellars of DiocletiansPalace are now used for exhibitions, plays andfor the International Flower Show (May).Walk to the Golden Gate (Ancient Roman: Por-ta Septemtrionalis, Venetian: Porta Aurea).Di-ocletian passed through it for the rst time on 1June 305 AD.Or follow Pope John Paul II whopassed through the Silver Gate (Roman: Por-ta orientalis) in 2000. Stop by the Iron Gate(Roman: Porta Occidentalis) where the Statue

Nike, the goddess of victory, used to be. It wasremoved in the 5thcentury by the Christians.Go on a half-day bus excursion to Salona. In119 BC, Quintus Caecilius Metellus decided tostation his army there during the winter. It wasJulius Caesar, then the governor of Illyricum,who gave it the Colonia Martia Julia Salo-nastatus and made it the capital of Dalmatia.When Salona was destroyed in 6th7th century,its inhabitants ed to Split and lived in what had

remained of Diocletians Palace.Location:GPS N 4330`24.912 E 1626`32.82Information:Tourist Information CenterPeristil,Peris-til bb, 21 000 Split, Tel. +385 21 345606, www.visitsplit.comArcheological Museum, Zrinsko-Frankopans-ka 25, 21000 Split, Tel.+385 21 329340, www.armus.hr, www.mdc.hr/split-arheoloski/eng/index.htmlOpening hours:June-Sep Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00,16.00-20.00, Sun closed; Oct-May Mon-Fri 9.00-14.00, 16.00-20.00, Sat 9.00-14.00, Sun closedArcheological Complex of Salona and Tuscu-lum, Put starina bb, Manastirine, 21210 Solin,Tel. +385 21 211538, www.mdc.hr/split-arheo-loski/eng/FS-dislocirani.htmlOpening hours: May-Oct Mon-Fri 7.00-19.00,Sat 9.00-19.00, Sun 9.00-13.00; Nov-Apr Mon-Fri 9.00-15.30, Sat 9.00-14.00, Sun closed

Aquae Iassae (Varadinske Toplice)and Andautonia Archaeological Park(itarjevo near Zagreb) (Croatia)

Varadinske toplice (population: 6,400) is knownas the oldest Croatian health spa. Hot springs andmedical treatments were offered here since the Ro-man settlement of Aquae Iasae, today the archae-ological site of Varadinske toplice. Aquae Iasaewas named after the Illyrian tribe Jasi, meaningwater of the Jasi. It ourished for 300 years(until the 4th century AD). Public baths (6,000m) were situated on the terrace of the Varadinhill, a residential area was at the foot of the hill.Goths were the rst to interrupt the pleasures ofhot springs and relaxing massages in the 3rdcen-tury AD. Constantine the Great restored the ther-maebefore the next migrating invaders broughtthem to their end. Excavations in 1967 uneartheda beautiful statue of goddess Minervawearing alegionary helmet. Visitors who come here in Junewill enjoy the annual Aquafest.Roman heritage enthusiasts should also stop byat itarjevo, a village between Zagreb and Ve-lika Gorica, an ancient Roman settlement calledAndautonia (1st4thcentury AD). It used to bean important river port. In 1994 the archaeolog-ical park consisting of a Roman town, street,

bath house and necropolis opened here. Exca-vations of Roman artefacts and art workshopsfor the public often take place in the park. Vis-iting the nearby Muzej Turopolje (TuropoljeMuseum) and theArcheological Museum inZagreb is highly recommended.Location:Varadinske Toplice: Zagorje region, North-eastern Croatia; Andautonia: village of itar-

jevo, 12 km to Zagreb, 8 km to Velika Gorica;GPS N 4612`29 E 1625`17 (VaradinskeToplice), N 454618 E 1675 (itarjevo)Information:Zagreb County Tourist Information Center,Preradovieva 42, Zagreb. Tel: +385 1 4873 665,www.tzzz.hrAquae Iasae Tourist ofce, Trg slobode 16,Stari grad, 42223 Varadinske Toplice, Tel.

+385 42 633133, www.toplice-vz.hr, www.varazdinske-toplice.hrAndautonia Archaeological Park, Parish court-yard, itarjevo, 10410 Velika Gorica, www.andautonia.com/eng/english.htmlOpening hours:1stof May-1stof Nov Sat, Sun12.00-18.00, Mon-Fri by appointment.Muzej Turopolje Trg kralja Tomislava 1, itar-

jevo, 10410 Velika Gorica, Tel. +385 1 6221325,www.muzej-turopolja.hrArcheological Museum in Zagreb, 19 NikolaSubic Zrinski Square, 1000 Zagreb, Tel. +385 14873101, www.amz.hrOpening hours: Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat 10.00-18.00,Thu 10.00-20.00, Sun 10.00-13.00, Mon closed;complimentary museum tour: Sat 15.00

Kaleto Fortress(Belogradchik, Bulgaria)

The Belogradchik fortress is the main attractionof this little town (population: ca. 5,300), situat-ed 545 metres above sea level and 50 km southof the Danube. The citadel (10,210 m) was aninspiration for the name of the town, meaningliterally small white construction. The nameof the fortress, Kaleto, comes from the Turkishkale (fortress). The complex of three separatecourtyards is connected via gates and walls (2metres thick, up to 12 metres tall). The earlieststructure of Roman origin (1st3rdcentury) was

built on the top of the rocky hill, integrating thenatural defence of the surrounding 70-metretall limestone rocks. The legionnaires stationedhere used to control the military road to the Ro-man logistic centre, Naissus(Ni, Serbia). Theroad started in Ratiaria (later Colonia UlpiaTraiana Ratiaria; today near Archar, a villagein Vidin province), where Legio IV Flavia Fe-lix was based until the conquest of Dacia (106AD), together with the Roman navy (during thereign of Emperor Vespasian). Ratiaria, also onthe Danube Limes road, was commercially im-

portant because of a gold mine in its vicinity.When you get here, enjoy the panoramic viewsand the breathtakingBelogradchik Rocks, acandidate for the UNESCO World HeritageList. Not surprisingly, this site won the 2008European Destination of ExcellenceAward.

The strategic advantages of the fort were rec-ognised by the Byzantines and Bulgarians, andalso by the Ottomans, who took over in 1396.The fortress got its present look in 18051837.It is a mix of typical Ottoman-style architecturewith some elements added by French and Italianengineers. Explore the garrison buildings, theold prison and the entrance to the secret tunnelto the downtown mosque.Location:65 km east of Vidin, Bulgaria; Magura Cave: 45km east of Vidin, 20 km west of Belogradchik;GPS N 4337`24.1 E 2240`37.69Information:Tourist Information Center, 1a PoruchikDvorianov str., 3900 Belogradchik, Tel. +359877 881283, Tel. +359 936 3291, www.be-logradchik.biz/belogradchik.en.html, www.be-logradchik-eu.netOpening hours fortress/visitor center: dailyJun-Sep 8.00-21.00, Oct-May 9.00-17.00

Ulpia Oescus (Gigen, Bulgaria)

Near the conuence of the Iskar and the Dan-ube and an old Thracian village, the rst urban

buildings were erected during the campaign ofEmperor Trajan (106109) on the ruins of theformer permanent camp of the Fifth Macedo-nian Legion (10 AD). Outside the Roman citywalls, there are still remains of the stone andsoil defence walls, built in 71101. After 271AD, the legion returned and built a second forti-ed city (Oescus II).A ourishing town Oescus later upgraded toColonia Ulpia Oescensium (167 AD) and cit-

izens were granted all Roman rights. The cityprotected the Danube Limes road and the mil-itary road to the present-day Plovdiv (Greek:Philippopolis; Latin: Trimontium). Storgosia(near Pleven) was also built on this road.The majestic Roman ruins in the area (280,000m) demonstrate the wealth of the city during therule of the Antonine and Severan dynasties. Nearthe entrance there are administrative buildings,and there is a perfectly reconstructed Romanwell in front of public bath I. Archaeologicalresearch in 1904-1905 identied three publicthermae and uncovered a perfectly preservedroad from bath I to the remarkable Temple ofFortuna (190-191 AD), dedicated to the protec-tor of the city. The statue of Goddess Fortunais exhibited in the National Archaeological Mu-seum Soa. The famous mosaic The Achaeans(3rdcentury AD)was unearthed across the roadin 1948 (it is now kept in the Pleven RegionalHistorical Museum). The forum is dominated bythe Temple of Capitoline Triad(Jupiter, Juno,Minerva) and a basilica. Further on, the civilianhouses of Oescus II extend.On 5 July 328 AD, Emperor Constantinethe Greatpersonally opened ConstantinessBridge, once the biggest stone bridge on theDanube. Its ruins can be seen in Celei, Roma-nia, once a Roman fortress of Sucidava. The

bridge was used only for a short period of time.It was dismantled before the Goth invasions(376378 AD). In 411 AD, the Huns destroyedOescus. Emperor Justinian I tried to re-establishOescus, but all the efforts were stopped in late585 and early 586 AD by the Avars.Location:Signposted; village of Gigen:55 km northwestof Pleven; GPS N 4342`30.6 E 2427`58.84Information:Regional Historical Museum, ul. Stoyan Zai-mov 3; 5800 Pleven, Tel. +359 64 822692 (Sec-retary), www.plevenmuseum.dir.bgOpening hours (museum/site):1st of Apr.-31stof Oct. Mon-Sat. 9.30-12.00, 12.30-18.00, Sunclosed

Colonia Iulia Iader (Zadar) andAenona (Nin), Croatia

Kalelarga, also known as the Wide Street, isa street in Zadar (population: 75,000)that con-nects Peoples Square with the Forum, the citysmain square. It follows the main ancient Romancity road, Decumanus Maximus. Roman urbancharacter is still present on the Zadar peninsula

but the rst settlers were Liburnians, known asexcellent sailors and merchants.Romans came in mid-2ndcentury BC, adoptingthe Greek name for the people living here Ia-dassinoi and calling the settlement Iader/Iadera .The construction of the city started with EmperorAugustus. The Forum(45 x 90 metres), nishedin the 3rd century AD,had a capitol in the south-west, with a temple dedicated to Jupiter, Junoand Minerva. The monumental Roman columnwas used as the pillar of shame in the MiddleAges. One of the Venetian-style city gates, theSea Gate, consists of a Roman triumphal arch,erected by Auniana Melia in memory of herhusband.Zadars latest attraction, theMuseumof Ancient Glass (MAS),hasthe biggest collec-tion of ancient Roman glassware outside Italy.Nin (population: 1,300) is next to Zadar. In ancientRome it was called Aenona(also Nona). Romans

built a forum, an amphitheatre and the biggesttemple on the Dalmatian coast here. Eight statuesof Roman emperors have been discovered here.Recent excavations have brought to light a rareByzantine mosaic(17 x 30 metres) on the oorof a Roman villa. Nin has had a spa since theRoman times. Peloid mudwas and is still beingused to heal skin diseases. Aenona was destroyed

by the Avars and Slavs in the 7thcentury.Location:Southern Croatia, North Dalmatia;GPS N 446`53.7618 E 1513`44.2266 (Zadar),

N 4414`36.654 E 1511`2.8602 (Nin)Information:Tourist Information Centre, MihovilaKlaia 1, 23000 Zadar, Tel. +385 23 316166,www.zadar.travelArcheological Museum, Trg opatice ike 1,23000 Zadar, Tel.+385 23 250516, www.amzd.hr

Opening hours: July-Aug daily 9.00-22.00,June, Sep daily 9.00-21.00, May Mon-Sat9.00-19.00, Apr Mon-Sat 9.00-17.00, OctMon-Sat 9.00-15.00, Nov-Mar Mon-Fri 9.00-14.00, Sat 9.00-13.00, Sun closedMuseum of ancient glass, Poljana Zemaljskogodbora 1, 23000 Zadar, Tel. +385 23 363833,www.mas-zadar.hrOpening hours: 16th of June-Sep daily9.00-21.00, Oct-Apr Mon-Sat 9.00-16.00, Sunclosed, May-15th of June Mon-Sat 9.00-19.00,Sun closedTourist ofce,Trg brae Radi 3, 23232 Nin,Tel. +385 23 265247, www.nin.hr/en/Museum of Nin Antiquities, Trg Kraljevac 8,23232 Nin, Tel. +385 23 264726, www.amzd.hrOpening hours: July-Aug daily 9.00-22.00,June, Sep daily 9.00-21.00, May Mon-Sat9.00-19.00, Apr Mon-Sat 9.00-17.00, OctMon-Sat 9.00-15.00, Nov-Mar Mon-Fri 9.00-14.00, Sat 9.00-13.00, Sun closed

Toes are usAt Nin, touching the big toe of the bronzestatue of Grgur Ninski, Bishop and greatadvocate of old Slavonic language, will bringgood luck.

Touch the Toe again twice...Many Split visitors believe in touchingthe big left toe of Splits monumental, 10m high statue of Grgur Ninski (Gregory of

Nin). It promotes luck and fortune, as in Nin.


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Histria (Istria, Romania)

According to Eusebius of Caesarea, the Pom-peii of Romania with reputation of the Euro-

pean Heritage Label was founded by Greek

settlers from Miletus between late 657 and early656 BC, and according to Pseudo-Scymnos,in 630 BC. It existed until the 7 thcentury AD.Along with Tomis (6thcentury BC; today Con-stanta) and the Dorian colony Callatis (6 thcen-tury BC; nowadays Mangalia), it was one of themost important Greek colonies on the Black Seacoast. When Romans took over Histria in the 1 stcentury BC, these three cities got civitates lib-erae orstipendiariae status, allowing them tokeep their Greek institutions.Around 170 AD, Histria was heavily destroyed

by the Goths. It never fully recovered, but it wasprosperous through the Byzantine times. Avarinvasions have put an end to the citys exist-ence. It is also possible that Histrias inhabitantsleft due to the loss of their harbour and moved tonearby Roman settlements. Ancient Histria wasdirectly situated on the peninsula on the BlackSea coast. The ancient coastline has changeddue to the Danubes sedimentary deposits.Histrias ruins, some up to 7.5 metres tall,demonstrate the importance of the city. Visitthe Main Gate and the Main Square of the lateRoman town, the sacred area with AphroditesTemple and Temple of Zeus Polieus, the tab-ernae (shops) in the commercial district, twoRoman thermae(baths), the Episcopal Basilica,the extra murosbasilica, the Roman-Byzantine

city walls. Rich collections of votive, funeraryand decorative reliefs, Greek and Roman ce-ramics, architectural elements, sculptures, jew-ellery and cult objects are on display at the localHistria Museum. All 430,000 items are kept atthe Museum of National History and Archae-ology (Constanta).Location:51 km from Constanta, 5 km from the com-mune of Istria; Access to Histria Fortress andLake Sinoe via DN 2A (heading for Tulcea, upto Ovidiu intersection), DN 22 (to Tariverde),local road DJ 22A (via Nuntasi to Histria);GPS N 4432`49.45 E 2846`23.10Information:Histria Museum, Loc. Histria, 907155 Istria,Constanta County, Tel. +40 241 614562,www.cimec.ro/web-histria/index_eng.htm http://www.olkas.net/lemmata/24_Histria Opening hours: May-Sep daily 9.00-20.00,Oct-Apr Wed-Sun 9.00-17.00, Mon, Tue closed.

Roman camp and the cities ofApulum (Alba Iulia, Romania)

In 106 AD the Roman XIII Gemina Legionbuilt the biggest fort of its time in Dacia (480 x430 metres) and remained there until 275 AD.The fort took the name Apulumfrom the nearbyDacian settlement Apulon. Alba Iulia is fascinat-ing because of its urban duality. Built in stoneoutside the fortress under emperors Hadrian andAntoninus Pius, the rst settlement Apulum I

becameMunicipium Aurelium ApulenseunderMarcus Aurelius. Emperor Commodus (180192AD) made it Colonia Aurelia Apulensis.

Emperor Septimius Severus (193211 AD) builtthe second city, Apulum II, south of the fortress,where service stores for the soldiers were, knownas Municipium Septimum Apulense. Betweenthese two cities, archaeologists discovered theDealul Furcilor-Podei necropolis and the Statiade Salvare necropolis.Roman coins, ceramics, marble votive statues,remains of the Nemesis and Mars Sanctuary andan ancient Mitra temple have been discoveredhere. The ancient Alba was a copy of Rome, justsmaller. The Southern Gate of the Roman for-tress, the double-gate Porta principalis dextranear the Praetorium consularis Daciarium Tri-um(the headquarters of the Roman governor) arevery impressive. See also the Bethlen Bulwark ofthemedieval fortress (16th17thcentury) and StEugene Bulwark of the Vauban-style HabsburgCitadelbuilt in 17141738 on the site of theRo-man camp.Stroll around the tree-lined paths ofthe Habsburg Citadel, admire the beautiful Ro-man Catholic Cathedral(13thcentury) built onthe site of an 11 th-century Romanesque church.It dates back to Prince Gelu(Latin: Iulius), whoruled Alba in the 10thcentury. He lent his nameto modern Alba Iulia.See also the Orthodox Cathedral of Reuni-cation,where Romanian King Ferdinand andQueen Mariewere symbolically crowned on 15Oct. 1922. See the Princely Palacewhere Prince

Michael the Braveresided 1599-1601. Admirethe Batthyaneum Libraryfrom 1780, the AporPalace(17thcentury), and stop at the Union Hall,where the National Assembly signed RomanianUnication Act on 1 Oct. 1918.Location:380 km `from Bucharest (route E 81),100 km from Cluj, 241 km from Arad;GPS N 4604`01.89 E 2334`20.11Information:Tourism Center, Strada Mihal Viteazul 15,Poarta IV a, 510018 Alba Iulia, Tel. +40 745081021, www.stiri.turismalba.ro,www.apulum.ro/en/prezentare.htm ,www.romaniatourism.com/alba-iulia.htmlNational Museum of Unication, Strada Mi-hai Viteazul 12-14, 510010 Alba Iulia, Tel. +40258 813300, http://mnuai.ro/muzeu/ ,https://apulumarchaeology.wordpress.com/Opening hours: Tue-Sun Jun-Sep 10.00-19.00,Oct-May 10.00-17.00, Mon closed

Alburnus Maior -Roman Mining Galleries(Roia Montan, Romania)

Roia Montan,a small mountain communenamed after the river Roia, meaning theRoia of the mountains, is located at an al -titude of 800 metres in the South ApuseniMountains of the Western Transylvania. Be-ing part of the Golden Quadrilateral, it isfamous for its richness in mineral resources,especially gold. It was the goldmines that at-tracted Emperor Trajan here after his decisivevictory over Dacians (106 AD). Roman min-ers, colonists from the Illyrian South Dalma-tia, who worked at Alburnus Maior, dug outca. 110 tons of gold and an unknown amountof silver. Until 271 AD, these treasures wereshipped from Alburnus Maior via the Mure tothe Danube and then to Rome.Roia Montan is famous for several Romanunderground galleries, which are partly opento the public. The local mining museum,Muzeul Mineritului, shows artefacts andmining practice from antique to modern timesand has a 400-metre long Roman mining tun-nel (1.90 metres high, 1.10 metres wide) thatfollows natural gold deposit.The most important discovery was that of 25Roman wax tablets in these galleries (1822and 1850). The oldest one dates back to 6 Feb131 AD.These Transylvanian wax tablets are rare ex-

amples of the Ancient Roman everyday jus-tice, social and economic life. One tablet is aminers work contract.Every year in August, during the MinersDay,the manifestation FnFestis organizedin Roia Montan.Location:Alba County; Roia Montan is reachablevia DN 74 A and DJ 742 (7 km); 10 km tocity of Abrud, 80 km to Alba Iulia; GPS N4618`13.25 E 2306`52.30Information:Roia Montan Commune, Principal 184,517615 Roia Montan, Tel. +40 258 783101,www.primariarosiamontana.roMuzeul Mineritului Aurifer Roia Montan,Str. Principal, 178, 517615 Roia Montan,Tel. +40 258 783165, www.alba.djc.ro/Obiecti -veDetalii.aspx?ID=2184Opening hours: Mon-Fri 8.00-14.00; guidedtours (duration: 90 min.)

Narona (Vid, Croatia)

On the banks of the Neretva River, 58 metresabove sea level, Greek merchants developed theemporion, a trading place for importing goodsto Illyria (4th century BC). Roman armies ar-rived here for the rst time in 156 and then in135 BC and some of the major military cam-

paigns against the Delmati were launched fromthe town. Octavian (later Augustus) establisheda regional administrative centre Colonia Iulia

Naronain the 1stcentury BC. Inscriptions men-

tion various Roman divinities worshiped inNarona (Jupiter, Asclepius, Mercury, Mars, For-tuna, Diana, Neptune, Ceres). A forum, mosaics,

parts of marble sculptures (e.g. Emperor Vespa-sians head), baths and a theatre have been foundhere during several excavation campaigns from1877 to 2004. The artefacts are being kept in theArchaeological Museum Narona (2007), Croa-tias rst in situ museum, built on the site ofAugusteum-a Roman temple erected around 10BC in honour of Augustus. It was discovered in1995 and 1996. There were 19 marble statues ofRoman emperors and other members of imperialfamilies in the temple. The monumental statue ofAugustus is 3 metres tall! The museum tour ex-tends to the archaeological park where sepulchraland decorative monuments and a mosaic can beseen. Excavations in the Upper Town (Gornjigrad) and Lower Town (Donji grad) unearthedHellenistic city walls (renewed in the 2ndcenturyAD): city gates and six towers on the northernwall and four towers along the southwest wall.Visit the Ere Tower while visiting the city walls.The tower was constructed in 18251851, it con-tains 40 ancient Latin and two Croatian inscrip-tions. The Ereove Bare archaeological site islocated in the Bare Marsh, west of Lower town.Here, a Roman villa rusticawas built in three

phases (2nd5th century). In the 5th century anearly Christian single-nave church with a narthex

and annexes to the northern and southern sideswas built at the site of todays Church of St Vitus(30 x 25 metres), which became a model for theearly Christian architecture in the hinterland.Location:3 km from Metkovic, near Dubrovnik;GPS N 434`52.24 E 1737`41.24Information:Dubrovnik and Neretva County TouristBoard, c/o Dubrovnik Tourist Board, Tel. + 38520 324999,www.visitdubrovnik.hr/en-GB/AttractionsDubrovnik Tourist Board, Brsalje 5, 20000Dubrovnik, Tel. +385 20 323887, www.tzdubrovnik.hr/eng/Archeological Museum of Narona, 20352 Vid,Tel. +385 20 687149, www.a-m-narona.hr/en/Opening hours: 15thof June-15th of Sep Tue-Sun 9.00-19.00, Mon closed; 16thof Sep-14thofJune Tue-Fri 9.00-16.00, Sat 9.00-17.00, Sun9.00-13.00, Mon closed

Colonia Ulpia Traiana AugustaDacica Sarmizegetusa(Sarmizegetusa, Romania)

The Roman settlement of Sarmizegetusa (for-tress on the top of the hill) should notbe con-fused with Sarmizegetusa Regia, the ancientroyal Dacian stronghold (and a UNESCOWorld Heritage Site), situated 40 km northeast.The new capital Colonia Ulpia Traiana AugustaDacica Sarmizegetusadeveloped from a small fort(castrum) of IV Flavia Felix Legion in a strategicallyimportant location - near the Gates of Transylvania.Sarmizegetusa became a Roman colonia. EmperorHadrianhonoured Trajan with the new city nameColonia Ulpia Traiana Augusta Dacica Sarmizege-tusa. To the existing 33 hectars of the fort, adition-

al walls (500 x 600 metres) were added forminga rectangular urban area, whilst additional 5080hectars became the extra muros zone for publicmonuments, houses, tombs and temples. As the le-gion moved to Berzovia (in Banat), it did not takelong before Colonia Dacica Sarmizegetusa becamea provincial capital with 25,000 inhabitants, a lotmore than in the modern-day village (population:1,300). The amphitheatre, the only one in Dacia,

built under Emperor Antoninus Pius (ca. 160 AD)could accommodate 5,000 spectators. After 271AD, when Romans left Dacia, the ellipticalbuildingwas blocked with tombstones, making it a fortressfor the remaining inhabitants. Most impressive arethe temples of Liber Pater andGoddess Nemesis,the sanctuary of Aesculapius and Hygeia and theGreat Temple (43.6 x 34 metres). Two glassblowingworkshops were discovered here. The procurator ofDacia ruled from Praetorium Procuratoris. Whenyou pass the granary (horreum) and new excavationsat the Northern Gate,you arrive at the Forum Ve-tus (Old Forum)with a monumental entrance gate,tetrapylon (a monument of a cubic shape with anarched gate on each of the four sides).The Archaeological Museum is currently exhib-iting the newly excavated artefactsand replicasof Roman military equipment, jewellery, potteryand the highlight Medusas Head.Location:

8 km from Iron Gates of Transylvania,160 km north of Drobeta Turnu Severin;GPS N 4530`59.88 E 2247`08.22Information:Archeological Site Ulpia Traiana Sarmizege-tusa, Main road (DN 68), 337415 Sarmizege-tusa village, Hunedoara County, Tel. +40 254776418,www.mcdr.roOpening hours:daily 8.00-20.00 April-October,9.00-17.00 November-MarchArcheological Museum, Main road (DN 68),337415 Sarmizegetusa village, Hunedoara County,Tel. +40 254 776418,www.mcdr.roOpening hours:Tue-Sun 9.00-17.00, Mon closedwww.cimec.ro/Arheologie/UlpiaTraiana/index.html

Daily life in ancient timesArcheological Museum of Sarmizegetusa pre-sents also not perfectly shaped Roman dices, most

probably used for playing foul tricks on others. Anancient money box, made of pottery, shows thelong tradition of money saving in coin banks.

Tropaeum Traiani(Adamclisi, Romania)

The name of the village Adamclisi (popula-tion: 2,150) means church of a man and it isassumed that it comes from the mistake inter-

pretation of an Ancient Roman monument for achurch by Turks. The monument was TropaeumTraiani (Trajans Trophy).It was inauguratedin 109 AD, after three years of construction, cele-

brating the Roman victory over the Dacians afterthe war conducted from 101-102.The main part of the monument is a 4-metre tallstone tambour (drum-shaped structure) and thetrophy on top of it. Today, 48 (out of 54), originalmetope - decorative bas-reliefs on the monumentwalls depicting major events of Trajans militarycampaign - are exhibited at the ArchaeologicalMuseum at Adamclisi.On the eastern side there is a funerary tumulus (thetomb of a Roman commander)and on the westernside of the Tropaeum there is an altardedicated tothe Roman soldiers fallen during the battles.Close to the monument there was the Munic-ipium Tropaeum Traiani, a home to retiredsoldiers, Roman traders and local Dacians, untilthe Avars arrival in 587 AD. Four city gates, themain road (Via Principalis), the remains of six

basilicas have been found as well as countrysidevillas (villae rusticae) situated in the rural ter-ritories of Tropaeum Traiani. Constantine theGreat re-fortied the municipality, after it was

partly destroyed in 170 AD.For this reason, an inscription dedicated to Con-stantine the Great and Licinius was placed at theEstern Gate of the city. Additionally, the city gatewas also decorated with a 2 metres tall trophy,similar to that one exhibited on the top of themonument. Both, the small trophy discoveredat the Eastern Gate of the city and the original

pieces of the trophy on the top of the monumentare now on the display at the Archaeological Mu-

seum, situated at the centre of Adamclisi village.On the way to Constanta, at the north end ofthis location, visit the vineyards of the wineryPodgoria Murfatlar.Location:On national road Bucharest-Calarasi-Constan-ta; 70 km southwest of Constanta;GPS N 4406`06.73 E 2757`18.14Information:Tropaeum Traiani/Archeological MuseumComplex of Adamclisi, 907010 Adamclisi, Tel.+40 241 614562,www.cjc.ro/engleza/adamen~1.htmhttp://constanta.inoe.ro/pagini/adamclisi.htmlOpening hours: daily 8.00-20.00 (peak sea-son); Wed-Sun 9.00-17.00, Mon, Tue closed(low season)

The battle of SarmezegutsaThe nal battle of Sarmezegutsa (106 AD)and the victory over Decebalus are depictedon Trajans Column (Rome).


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22 THEROMANEMPERORSROUTE 23ANDTHEDANUBEWINEROUTE

Mediana (Ni, Serbia)

The modern-day Ni, once the antique Romancity of Naissus, claims its fame for being thebirthplace of Emperor Constantine I (theGreat), who ruled from 306 to 337 AD and

became St Constantine. In 2013, Ni hostedcelebrations dedicated to the anniversary ofConstantines Edict of Milan, 1,700 years ago.Romans arrived here in 75 BC, developing Nais-sus into a highly important gateway between the

East and the West. Roman tombstones insidethe Ottoman fortress and artefacts in the Nation-al Museum, including a replica of Constantinesmarble head, are proof of Roman presence. Con-stantines father Flavius Valerius Constantius(31 March 25025 July 306), a noble Romanmilitary ofcer from Moesia Superior,becameaco-emperor Constantius Chlorus in 293anda founder of the Constantinian dynasty. Con-stantines mother (born ca. 272 AD), Helena(246/25018 August 330), was a buona stabu-laria (inn-keeper) in Naissus.Historic sources conrm the presence of Con -stantine in the city when he was a child, then in315, 319, 324, and 334 AD. He commissioneda complex of imperial villas at Mediana, hissummer residence between 317 and 330. Thehuge area (400,000 m) consisted of 40 Romanvillas, including the Imperial Palace (6,000 m),80 buildings, thermae, granary (horreum) and awater tower. Two early Christian churches wereexcavated here in 2000 and 2007. They mayhave been built in 378 AD.After Constantines death, a number of Romanemperors stayed in Mediana: Constantine`ssons Constatius II andConstans(in 340 and350), Julian the Apostate(in 361),ValentinianI(in 364). Constantius IIIwas born in Naissus(425). Like many Roman cities in the region,

Naissus was destroyed by the Huns in 442.A small museum at Mediana displays its smallerartifacts. The bigger, more important ones are inthe National Museum.Location:6 km east of Ni, in suburban village of BrziBrod; GPS N 4318`37 E 2156`56Information:Tourist Information Center Ni, VodaKaraora 5, 18000 Ni, Tel. +381 18 521321,www.visitnis.com, www.ni.rs/tourism.htm lInfo branch Fortress:Tvrdjava, 18000 Nis,Tel. +381 18 250222National Museum Ni Generala Milojka Le-

janina 14, 18000 Ni, Tel. +381 18 248189, Fax+381 18 246622, www.narodnimuzejnis.rsOpening hours:Tue-Fri 10.00-17.00, Sat., Sun10.00-15.00, Mon closed;Archeological site Mediana, Bulevar CaraConstantina bb, 18000 Ni, Tel. +381 18550433, www.narodnimuzejnis.rsOpening hours:see National Museum

Sirmium (Sremska Mitrovica, Serbia)

On the crossroads of the West and the East, theNorth and the South, on the banks of the riv-er Sava (Latin: Savus), the Roman settlementSirmium, probably occupied by the Romans in139 BC, became one of the most important cit-ies of the Late Roman Empire. In 103 AD, it be-came the capital of the Roman province of Low-er Pannonia. In 293 AD, when the Empire wassplit into four parts (Tetrarchy), Sirmium wasone of the four capitals of the Empire, along withAugusta Treverorum (Trier, Germany), Mediola-num (Milan, Italy) and Nicomedia (Turkey).Trajan started his campaign against Dacianshere, Emperor Galerius had his seat here. As

many as ten Roman emperors were born in oraround Sirmium. In Christian times, the rst

bishop and martyr Irenaeuswas beheaded ona bridge on the river Sava in 304 AD. Later,Sirmium hosted two synods (357359).The Sirmium Imperial Palace, a basilica, wasdiscovered in 1957. The roof of the new VisitorCentre now protects huge parts of the palacewalls and the ruins of administrative premisesand emperors private residential chambers. The

best preserved are the three levels of mosaic pave-ments. A marble fountain is under reconstruction.There is a large apse that is thought to have beena ceremonial hall for ofcial receptions.A scale model of what Sirmium looked like inthe 4thcentury AD shows a road network, aque-ducts, military fortications and a circus.Stillunexcavated hippodrome wasthe second big-gest in Europe (150 x 450 metres). Guided citytours include the Archaeological Museum nearSt Demetrius Church, where votive altars oflegionnaires, a tombstone with a gryphon onit, golden coins of Constantine and Helena andreplicas of goldbars produced in Sirmium on 18January 379 AD, are the highlights of the col-lection. The marble head of the goddess Venusof Sremska Mitrovica deserves special atten-tion (1stcentury BC). A lone brick commemo-rates the nal fall of Sirmium in 582 the Avarstook it after three years of siege.Location:Srem/Syrmia District, province of Vojvodina;69 km west of Belgrade; 145 km from Kostolac;GPSN 4458`12 E 193637Information:Tourist Organization of the City of SremskaMitrovica, Svetog Dimitrija 10, 22000 Srems-ka Mitrovica, Tel. +381 22 618275,www.tosmomi.rsArcheological Museum Srem (with Lapidar-ium), Trg Svetog Stefana 15, 22000 SremskaMitrovica, Tel. +381 22 623245, http://tosmomi.rs/en/turisticka-ponuda/kultura/muzej-sremaOpening hours: Sat-Mon 7.00-15.00, Tue-Fri7.00-20.00, branch Vuka Karadia 3 (thematicexhibitions): Mon-Fri 7.00-15.00Sirmium Imperial Palace (Carska palataSirmijuma), Pivarska 2, 22000 Sremska Mitro-vica, Tel. +381 22 618817,www.carskapalata.rs/imperialpalace.htmlOpening hours:daily 9.00-17.00

Felix Romuliana(Gamzigrad, Zajear, Serbia)

The imperial palaces of Emperor Galerius andhis mother Romula were heavily defended bya double fortication system. The rst wallwas built in 297 AD, after the victory of Gale-rius over Persians, and the second one, with 20round and polygonal watchtowers in 305-306AD. The building of palaces did not start be-fore 305 AD. Research indicates a former urbansettlement. There may have been a countrysidevilla (villa rustica) of Galeriuss father, a birth

place of Galerius (250 AD). The brave and glo-rious military emperor got his surname Armen-tarius(herdsman) because he grazed cattle inhis youth. Although Galerius and his mother didnot like Christians, it was Galerius who stoppedthe persecutions of Christians with his edict of30 April 311. He died the same year, after sev-eral military interventions north of the Danube.Galerius never saw the nished complex (313AD): two luxury villas, two temples (one ded-icated to pagan mountain gods that his motherwas a priestess of), public buildings, frescoes,stucco, oor mosaics, statues. The ruins of hisfuneral mound and mausoleum and the one ofhis mother, who was named patron of the pal-ace grounds, are situated 1 kilometre east of themain entrance gate, on the Magurahill.The best way to explore Felix Romuliana is totake a guided tour. Worth seeing are the TownMuseum and what is left of the byzantinechurch, built under Emperor Justinian I after theHuns had destroyed Felix Romuliana in 441 AD.Felix Romuliana became a UNESCO WorldHeritage Site in 2007. Before visiting the Za-

jear National Museum, where you can see theoutstanding artefacts of Felix Romuliana suchasporphyry bust of Galerius, head of Hercules,mosaics of Dionysus and the labyrinth, checkout the hot springs of Gamzigradska Banja.Location:

Near road Paracin-Zajear; 11 km from Zajear;GPS N 4353`57.4512 E 2211`39.1344Information:Tourist ofce Zajear, Svetozara Markovia 2,19000 Zajear, Serbia, Tel. 19 421521,www.zajecar.infoNational Museum, Moe Pijade 2, 19000 Zajear,Tel. +381 19 422930, www.muzejzajecar.orgOpening hours: Mon, Sat 8.00-16.00, Tue-Fri8.00-18.00, Sun closed, Sat. Nov.-Mar. closedArcheological Site Felix Romuliana, Gamzi-grad, 19000 Zajear, Tel. +381 19 450019,Guided tours Tel. +381 64 2809485 (Dir. BoraDimitrijevi), www.muzejzajecar.orgOpening hours: daily Apr.-Oct. 8.00-20.00,

Nov.-Mar. 8.00-16.00

Slippery, slithery cityLegend wants, that Gamzigrad, literarySlithertown, was named due to the hugenumber of snakes, found in the complex ofFelix Romuliana.

Diana - erdap Region(Kladovo, Se

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