Robert Smithson, Hotel Palenque

5/14/2018 Robert Smithson, Hotel Palenque

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H O lE P A L E Q U E , 1 9 6 9 - 7 2


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P a l e nQ u e a c lu a l l y u se d to b e c al l e d I h e c il y o f I h e s n ak e. T b e rew e r e p eo p l e t h er e w h o w o rs h ip ed I h e s n ak e a nd , i n a s e ns e , I h ish o le l i s b u il l i n a k in d o f i n le r tw i n i n g s n a k i n g w a y . I I h a s n o c e n le r,o r y ou m i g h t try 1 0 f in d a c en te r i n t h is p la ce b u l y o u r e a l l y c an 'l ,y o u k n o w , b e ca us e i t ' s s o d e d if f e re n l i a le d , a nd s o th e l o g i c o f t h ew h o l e p la ce i s j u st im p o s s i b le t o f a th om . H e re i s n o w a y t h at y ouc a n p o ss ib ly f ig u re i t o u t. . . a n d a c t u a ll y y o u c an s ee t h a t n ic e s ta in -e d w o o d ed f a ca d e th e r e a nd j u s t m e d i t a te o n t h a t a ll a f te rn o o n .

P a le n q u e h im u rs p r i i n g li c h S ta d t d e r S c h l a n g e . D i e S c h l a n g e w u r d ev on d en M e n s c h e n d or t v er e h rt , u n d d im s H o l e l i s l g ew i s s e r -m a s se n i n s ch la n g e na rt i g e r V e rs ch lu n ge n h e il g e ba u t. E s h a t k e i n e nM i tt e lp un k t ; s o se hr m a n a ue h v er s u ch !, e in en a us z um a ch en , e sw i rd e in em l e tz tl i e h n ie h ! g e l i n g en , w e il d a s G e b au d e s o v ie ls eh ic h -t i g a n ge le g l i s t, d a s s s ic h d ie i i b e rg e or dn e l e L o g ik n ie h l e rg r i i n d enl i i s st . M a n k om m l e in fa ch n ic h l d a h in te r; s la ll d e s se n s ie h l m a nd im s ch o n e F a s sa de a u s g e b e i z le m H o lz , ii b e r d ie m a n d en g an z e nN a c h m i ll a g n a ch d e nk e n k a n n .


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T h i s s li d e s ho w s a n i n te re st i n g s i t u at i o n . A t o ne p o i n t t h ey n id en tl v d ec id ed 1 0 b u i l d s om e f l o o ~ ,a nd d e c id e d th a l l h a l w a sn 'I a v e r y g o o d i d ea , so t h e ~ d em o li s he d f h em , b u t l e t! t h is s p i k y , i r r e gu la r,c an ti le v er ed e ff ec t c o m in g o ff t he s id e 0 1 t h e w a ll . I t s o r t 0 1 s ug g e st s P ir a ne si , I d o n 't k n o w w h e th e ry ou k n o w o f t h e .pr i s on s er i e s o f P ir a ne s i, b u l t h e y a r e I v I I o f t h e s e f l o o r s t h a t r e a l l y g o n o w h e re an ds t a ir w a ys t h at j u st d is ap pe ar i n to c lo ud s, a nd th is s or t o f j u s t b re ak s o ff i n to t h e M e ~ ic an d ir t a ndy ou 'r e j u sl s or t o f l e ft w i l h t h is r a ih e r h an d s om e w a ll s tr u c t u re , a nd I r a t h e r l i k e I h is p a r t i c u l a r t a eh -n iq u e. I t' s a " d e ar ch it ec lu r i z a li o n " y o u m i g ht s ay . 1 1 ' 5 a b re ak in g a w ay 0 1 u n ne c es sa ry f lo o rs . A f te ra l l f l o o r s a r e n o t m e r e l y f o r s t a n d i n g o n , I m e a n y o u c a n h a v e s o m e 0 1 t h e p a r t i a l f l o o r m o ti f .A c tu a l l y I s pe n t m a n y h ap p y m o m e n t s i n t h e H o te l P a l e nq u e m e d it a ti n g o n I h is pa rl i c u l a r sae t i en , Itr ea J ly a p p e a ls 1 0 m e . I I i ke t h at s o r t o f b r o k e n 1 0 o k . Y o u k n o w y ou c an is t s e e I h e h am m e rs c om in gd ow n a nd t a k in g a w ay th e p ie ce s o f c on c r e te .

D ie se s D ia z e i g t e in e i n te re ss an te S it u a l i 0 n : D a h a b e n d ie M e n s ch en o ff e ns i t h tl i c h b e sc hl o ss en ,G e s ch os sb ii d en a Jl z ul e ge n, d ie i h ne n d an n a be r n ic ht g ef i e le n, s o d a. s s ie s ie w i e de r z er s lo rl e n ;d ab ei l i e ss en s i e d ie se s p lt r e n, w i e z uf a ll i g a us d er W a n d r a ge nd en A n si i t z e a us T r~ g e r- E is e n u ndB e to n s te he n . . D a s e ri n n e rt i r g en dw i e a nP ir a ne si ; i c h w e is s n iG h t, o b S ie d ie P ir a n e si G e fa ng n i s sek e nn e n, a b er d a g ib l -s a u ch s ti i nd ig G e s ch o ss e , d ie n ir ge n dw o h in f i ih re n , u n d T r ep p en , d ie e in fa G h i nd en W o lk en m s ch w in d e n . D a s h ie r v e r l a u ft p ra k t i s ch a U G hi m m e x ik an is ch e n S a n d , u n d d a s te h l m a nd an n v o r d ie se r a us se rs t r e in e l l e n W a nd s t r u k lu r; i e n m a g d ie se e ig en a r t i g e T e ch n i k . M a n k ii n n t e s iea u c h a ls . In t A r ch i te k tu r is ie ru n g . b e z ei ch n e n : d a s W e g b re c h en i ib e rf li is s ig e r B o d e n . S c h li es s li ch s in dB o d en n ic h i n u r z u m D ra u l s I e h e n d a , iG h m e i n e , e in B o d en i s t a u eh a l sM o li v f i i r s i eh g e n0 m m e ni n te re ss an t. T a ls ac ll l i c h h ab e i e h y ie le g l i i c k l i c he A u g en b l i c k e im H o te l P a l e nq u e d am i l v e r b ra ch t,i i b e r d i e se n T ei l d es G e b a ud e s n a c hz u d e n ke n . E r I . i e h t m i eh r e ge lr e ch l i n s ei n e n B a n n . I c h m a g d ie seG e b r o c l J en h e il M a n s ie h l g e r a de zu d ie H i im m e rn ie de rs au se n u n d d e n B e lo n w e g s ch la g e n . .

N o w t h i s i s w h at y ou c {J uld e a l i l h e c en te r o f I h e h o t e l. 1 1 '5 a k in d o f g a rd en 0 1 e a s t - e f b riT h ey a re m u lt i c o l o re d a c lu a l l y . I m e a n if y o u lo o k c lo se ly t h ey h av e l i t t l e p i e ce s o f m u l li o ve r t h em a nd th ey m a ke a f i n e p la ci ! f o r c ha m el e on s a nd l i z ar d s t o s cr a m bl e o ve r. I n I h e bs ee t h e r a lh e r n ic e d .o o r e l l e ct , y o u k n o w g o i n g i n lo t h es e d a r k p as sa g e s y o u j u st c an 't im ~i n t h er e ; p ro ba bl y j u st a no th er s er i e s o f w in d in g ! r a il s . T h e w h o l e I h if l g , t h e w h o l e h o l e l i si nt e rl ac in g . A k in d 0 1 g re a t m a s s o f f i l i g re e j u st w in din g a l l a r o un d i t s e l f , A n d h er e y ou c am e a n in g l e ss p il l a r o f s om e s o r t t h a t w a s e v i d en ll y t h e b e g in n in g o f s om e s tr u c t u re b u t it d o eI m e an , i t s o rt o f d e f i e s a ll f u nc ti o na li s m a nd I e sp ec ia ll y l i k e t h e c or r u ga te d r o o f . I l i k e t h ac on si s t e n cy : t h e w a y i t 's s o rt o f r i p pl e d a s i t g oe s a c ro ss - t h e n ic e u se 0 1 t h e b lu e a ga inc an 't f i g ur e o ut w h y lh ey p ut t h ai d oo r t h er e b ut it s e e m s 1 0 b e lo n g , i l s ee m s 1 0 h a ve s om eM a y an n e c es si t y . I t j u st g re w u p s o r t o f l i k e a t r o p i c a l g ro w th , a s o r t o f M e x ie an g eo lo g i c , m a

D a s k ii n n t e m a n a ls M i ll e lp un k t d es H o te ls b ez ei c hn en . E s i s t e in e A r t G a rt e n a us a us r a ngs ch il t e rn in v ie le n F a r b en . W e n n m a n g e n au h in s i e h t , e r. k en n l m a n , d a s s s ie v o n ~ ie lf a rb ii i b er z og en u nd d am i t d e r i d ea le P la tz f i i r C h am a le on s u nd E id ec hs en s in d . 1 m H in le rg ru ndw u n de rs ch ii n en T o re ff e k t , a ls o e tw a s , d as i n d u n k le G a n g e f i i h rt , w o m a n n ic h l w e is s, w a s d rs ch e i n li c h w i e de r l a li l e r v e~ c h lu n g en e P fa de .D a sg aJ lz e H o le l i s t e in fa ch d u r c h u n d d u r c hf lo c hl e n . E in e A r l i n s ic h s e l b s l v e rs ch lu J lg e ne s F il ig ra n G e w e b e . U n d h ie rs ie h t m a n w i ed e r sl o se S a u le . D a s o l l t e o ff e ns ic h l l i c h . e in m a l e in e S lr u k tu r e n t s te he n , a be r d a . s pi e lt e ig en tl im e in e , s ie i s l e in e A b s a ge a n j e de A r t v o n F u nk li o n a li U i I. V o r a l te rn m a g i e h d a s g ew e il l e D ak ei t , d ie w e ll e n f i i r m i g e S tr u k iu r, u nd w ie s ic h d as B la u v on d em C r i i n a bs e tz t. E s i s l lw aw a ru m d ie se T ii t d a i s t, a b e r s i e s ch e i n l d o r t h i n z u g eh ii r e n , s i e h a t d ie se u ng la ub li c he , f Uty p i s c h e N o m e n d ig ke it . S ie e n is la nd in e in er A r t ! r o p i sc he rn W a c hs t u m , e in S ti i C k m e xi ks oz us ag e n , e i n W u n d er v o n M e n sc he n h a nd .


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N ow t h i s s h e w s y o u I h e r e o t l e s s m 0 t i l w h ic h i f h i n k i s v e r y , v e r y h a n d s 0 m e , 0 n c e a g a i n t h e I r o p it a l g r e e n i n te r io r ;i s v e ry g re e n t h er e , I t 's th e b eg in nin g 01 t h e t r o pic a l r a in l o r e st , i t ' s s u pe r - s a t u r a te d g re e n , I . m ea n e v er y lh i n g lot o u c h o f b lu e t o p u t y o u a l i t t l e a t e a s e , h u t n o l lo o m uc h - a n d I h e r e y o u c a n s e e t h o s e p i l l a r s a g a in , I m ea n , i t ' sm ig h t b e p y l o n s f o r l o r c h e s o r s o m et h in g o f I h a t s o r t , w hic h m ig h t b e q u i t e n i c e , T h i s i s r e a l ly t h e o ld h o le l a n ds te a d o f j u s l t e a r i n g i t d o w n a l o n c e I h e y l e a r i l d o w n p a r t i a l l y s o I h a l y o u a r e n o t d e p r iv e d o f I h e c o m p l e l e w re c k a gv e r y s a t i s f y in g a G tu a l l y to m e: i t 's n o l o f t e n t h a i y o u s e e b u i l d in g s b e in g b o th r ip p e d d o w n a n d b u i l t u p a t th e s a md o n 't k n o w w he th e r t h e y w an l I h i s p a r t o f I h e h o t e l o r n o l , s o i l s e e m s v e r y s m a r t 1 0 a c t u a l ly ju s l I e a v e i l t h e r en e v e r k n o w w he n y o u m ig h t h a v e s o m e I r a v e le r , s o m e to u r i s l w ho c o m es 1 0 I h e h o le l a n d w an t s a p l a c e I h a l d o e s n 'S o t h e y a r e v e r y c a n n y l ik e I h a t . W e 'r e lo o k i n g f r o m t h e n e w p a r t o f I h e h o l e 1 w h ic h a s y o u e a n s e e l s v e r y d e d lf fe rh a .v e n o lo g ic a l a l l , w ha t s o e v e r . I m ea n , I h i s i s j u s l s o m e b a l c o n y , I d o n ' t k n o w w he r e i l w as , i t w as ju s l a c o n v e n iep i c l u r e f r o m a n d . t h e r e i l i s .

D as l s t e i n M o t iv o h n eD ac h , d a s m i r g a n z b e s 0 n d e r s g ef i i l l l . W i e de r d as I r o pi s c h g r u ne I n t e r i e ur ; i ib er h a u pt l s tH ie r b eg i n n t d e r t r o p i s c h e R eg e n w a ld , s e i n i i b e rs a t t i g t e s C ri in , e s i s t e i n fa c h a ll e s g r l l n , e i n H au ch B la u d az w i s c h enU nd d a s i e h t m an w ie d e r d i e S au le n . E s k l i n n t e s i e h u r n M a s l e n f i i r F ac k e ln o d e r e lw as A hn l i e h e s h a n d e ln , w un d e r s cH ie r k o m m l d a s a i l e H o te l z u m V o r s c h e i n , . A n s ta l l e s e i a t a e h a u f e i n e n S ch la g a h z u r e i s s e n , t u n s i e e s S eh r i l l f l i r S cd ie V e r n ic ht u ng i n a l l e n O e l a i l s v or A u g en g ef i i h rt w ir d , D a s f i n d e le h g ut : m a n sie ht n ie ht o ft , w ie e i n G eb au de g Tu n d a u f g e b a u l w ir d , D ie M e n s c h e n w is s e n n i e h t g e n a u , o b s ie d i e s e n o d e r j e n e n T ei l d e s H o le l s e r h a l l e n w o l l e n o d e rn u r a n g e m es s e n , d a s s s i e i h n s le h e n la s s e n ." , A us s e r d e m w ei s s m an n i e , o b n ic h i i r g e n d e in T o u r i s l i n s H ote l k o ma h n e D ac h m oc h le . . O ie s e H al l u n g i s t a l s o d u r c h a u s u m si c h i ig , . H ie r s c h a u e n w ir a u s d e m n e u e n T e i l d e s H ole l ss e h ea , a as s e rs t e nt d i i f e re rl z i e r t i s t , E s g ib l k ei n e w ie a u ch . im m er g e ar l e le L og ik , O a s i s l e in fa c h e i n B a lk on , i c hw e ie b e n e i n O r t , d e r s i e h g u t f i i r e i n P h o to e ig n e te u n d , " b il l e s e h r.

N ow h e r e i s o n e o f t h e m or e i n t e r e s l i n g w in d o w s in t h e h o t e l . T h i s lo o k s o u t , 1 m ea n y o u r e a l ly c a n 'I s e e i t b e c a u s e I h e n a l iv e s b u md o w n t h e I r o p ic a l f o l i a g e s o t h a t t h e y c a n f a rm th e l a n d a n d I h e a i r f i l l 5 u p w il h i n e r e d ib l e c lo u d s o f s m ok e . T h e y e a II t h e se t h in gs" m ilp a " : I t ' s a v e r ) a n c i e n l f o rm o f f a rm in g w h ic h . g o e s b a c k 1 0 p r e S pa n i s h l im es . B u l i n th a i m is l if y ou lo ok I h r o ug h . . .1 m ea n i f y o uc o u ld . s e e a c lu a l ly b a c k I h e r e y o u m ig h t r e m o t e l y b e a b l e 1 0 .p i c k o u l a f r a g m en l o f th e P al e n l l u e r u i n s , t h e te m p l e s , I h e M a y a n e b s e r -v at c r l e s a n d o th e r w on de r s t h a ll h ep re -S pa ni s h I n dia n s b ui l t . 'M y f ee l in g i s t h at t h i s h ole l i s b ui l l w ilh I h e s a m e s p ir i t I h at I h .e M a y an sb u i l t I h e i r t e m p le s . M a n y o f t h e l e m p l e s c h a n g e d t h e i r f a c a d e s c o n t i n u a l l y : th e r e a r e s o r t o f f a c a d e s w it h i n f a c a d e s o v e r l a p p i n g f a -e a d e s , f a c a d e s o n f a . c a d e s . Y ou k n 0 W I h is w i n d o w is a c lu a l I y l o o ki ~ g 0 u t o v e r I h e I h in g s th a i w e w en l I h e r e 1 0 s e e b u l y o u 1 1 ' 0 n ' I s e ea n y o f I h o s e te m ple s in I h i s l e t tu r e ; I h a t ' s s o m et h in g th a i y o u h a v e 1 0 g o th e r e 1 0 s e e f o r y o u r s e l f , a n d [ h o p e t h a t y o u g o to t h e h o le lP al e n q u e s o t h a i y o u le a m s o m e th i n g a b o u l h o w I h e M a y a n s a r e s l i l l b u i ld in g . T he s l r u c tu r e b a s a l l o f I h e c o n v o l u l i 0 n a n d le r r o r , in as e n s e , I h a l y o u w ou ld f i n d in a I y p ic a l M a y a n t e m p l e - - - - e s p e c i a l ly o f I h e I I x m a l v a r i e l y w h i c h i s v e r y v e r y . . l t 's c a l l e d M a y a n B aro q u ea n d m a d e e u t o f s e r p e n l i n e f a c a d e s l o a d e d w it h s p i r al s a n d r o c k s e a r v e d in th e s h a p e o f w ov e n tw ig s a n d I h i n g s ; i t 's q u i l e n ic e . S o I h a It o m e I h i s w in d o w , t h i s s e e m in g ly u s e l e s s w in d ow r e a l l y c a l l e d f o r th a \ l s o r t s 0 1 l r u lh s a b o u l I h e M e x i c a n I e m p e r a m e n l .

H ie r h a b e n w ir e i n e s d e r i n le r m an le r e n F en s I e r im H ot e l . E s g e w i i h r t A u s b l i c k a uf . . . . m a n k an n e s e i g en tl i e h n i e h l r i c ht i g s e h e n, w e i ld ie E in he im is c h e n d a s t r o p i s c he L a u bw e r . k a b b re n n e n , d am i l s i e d a s L a nd b e b a ue n k ii n ne n , u nd d a b e i s te i g en u n g la u bl i e h e R au ch w o lk ena u l . S i e n en n e n d a s .m i l p a ': E s i s t e in e s e h r a i l e M e l h 0 d .e d e r U rb arm a c h en g , d ie a u l v o rs p an i s c h e .Z e i l e n z ur i i c k ge h t. A b er w e n n S i ed u r c h d e n N eb e l h i n d u r c h s e h e n k i i n n l e n , w u r d e n S ie i n d e r F er n e e in B ru th s t i i c k d e r P al e n q u e R u in e n e r k e n n e n , d i e T em pe l , d i e M a y a O bs e r v a l o r i e n u n d a n d e r e W u n d e rw er k e d e r v o r s p a ni se h e n I n d ia n at. I c h h ab e d e n :E i n d r u c k , d a s s d ie s e s I I 0 t e l a u s d e m se lb e n G ei 5 th e r a u s e n l s l a n d e n i s t w ie d ie T em p e l d e r M a y a , V ie l e d a v o n .h a b e n im L au f e d e r Z e it im m e r w i e d e r a n d e r e F a s s a d e n b e ko m m e n . S o e n l -s l a n d e n F a s s a d e n i n d e n F a s s a d e n , d ie w ie d e r a n d e r e li b e r l a ge m , D im s F en s le r h i e r g e w ah r t e ig e n t l i c h A us b l i ck a u f d ie O i n g e , d e r e ! -w eg e n w ir d o r t h in g e g a n g e n s i n d , a b e r S ie w er d e n im R a h m en d ie s e s V o r tu g s k e i n e n s o l e h e n T em pe l z u G es ic h t b e k o m m e n , . M a n m u s ss ic h d a s v o r O rt a n s e h e n , u n d ih h o f f e , S ie w e rd e n d a s H o le l P ale n q u e b e s u c h en , u r n e lw a s d a r i ib e r .lll e r l a h re n, w ie d i e M a y as h eu len o c h b a u e n . 0 i e S tr u k tu r d e s I I o t e l s v e r ff igt i i b er d i e g l e i e h e b e ii n g st ig e n d eV e r s e h lu n g e n h e it w i e d i e iy pi s c h e n M a ya - T em p e l, v o r a l l e md i e . in U x m a l . D as n e n n l s i c h M a y a - B ar o c k u n d b e s le h t a u s v e r s c h l u n g e n e n F as s a d e n v o n e r S pi r a l e n u n d b e h a u e n e r S te i n e i n d e r F ormv e r w ob e n e n G ea s t s u n d i ih n l i e h e r D in g e . D a s i s l s e h r s c h o n . I n m e in e n A ug e n v e r r a t d ie s e s F en s t e r , d i e s e s s th e i n b a r n u t z l o s e F en s l e r ,e i n e M e ng e i ib e r d as m e x ik a n is c h e T em p e r a m e nt .


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N o w t h is i s a r o om a c l u a ll y , o ne o f t h e u nf i n is h ed r o om s . A n d i ts e em s t h at i t h as a k in d o f J a s p er J o hn si a n s i m p li c it y a b ou t i t . I ta ls o s ug g e st s s om e th in g im p e ne tr ab le , s om e th in g u n a tl a in a b le .T h o se b ar s g o i n g f r o m d oo r t o d oo r l i k e t h at s ee m to g i~ e t h in g s ag re at e r s en se o f . . m a k e t h in g s l e ss a cc e s si b le , m o r e i n e r t, c lG s edo ff , r em o ~ e d , a nd ~ e ry m u c h l i k e t h e b u r ia l p it i n t h e m a jo r t e m p leo f t h e P al e n qu e r u in s o ut s i d e t h is c om p le x . I n t h e f r o nt y ou c ans e e s o m e t h i n g I h a t l o o k s l i k e a m o a t . N o w th a t i s a m o a t a n d i tw a s d r y t h e t im e I w as t h e r e . N o d . o u b t i t c o u l d b e u t i l i z e d a s as n a k e p it 0 r s o m e lh i n g o f t h a t s or t.

U n d h i e r e in e s d e r u n f er ti g en Z im m e r . E s i s t i n J as p e r l o h n s h a f te rS c hl i c h t h e i t g eh a l t e n u nd h a t e tw a s U n d u r ch d r in g l i c h e s, U n e in -n eh m b a r es . D i e se B a lk en z w is ch e n d en T i i r en s ch e i n en d en D in g e ne in e A r t .. . l a ss en s ie u n z ug an g l i c h w i r ke n , a bw e is en d , v e r sc h l o s -s en , e n t r U ck t, g a n z a hn li e h d en G r ab s t a tl e n im g ro ss en T e m p e l d e rP a l e nq u e R u in en a u s se rh a l b d ie m K o m p lm s . 1 m V o r de rg ru n d i . s te in e A r t C r a be n. E r w a r t r o ck en , a ls i c h d a w a r , u nd w u rd e s ic he ra ls S c h la n g en g r ub e o d e r d e rg le ic h e n v e rw e n d e l.

T h i s s e e m s t o g o t o w a r d s s o m e k i n d o f c e n t e r b u t i t d o e s n ' t - s o I w o n ' t . A n y h ot o w ar d s s o m e t h in g , b u t t h er e i s n o p o i n t i n t r y in g t o f i g u r e o u t w h at i t i s l e ad in g ti t a s t h e b la ck a nd w h it e p er s pe tl i ~ e . A c tu al l y I f e e l t h at t h es e t i l e s a re m u ch m om o s t o f t h e p ai n ti n g s b ei n g d on e i n N e w Y o rk C i t y r i g h t n ow , s ho w in g f a r m o re ia l s o i n f r o nt o f t he n ew p ar t o f t he m o te l s t r u ct u re - i t 's b ot h a m o te l a n d a h ot et o t e ll t h e d if f e re nc e b e tw e en a m o te l a nd a h o t e l w h en y ou c om e t o a s tr u ct u re lt o i n te rt w in e w it h e a ch o th er , a nd l o s e e a ch o t h er a n d c a n ce l e a c h o th er o ut , sp o ss ib il i t y o f k n ow i ng w h e re y o u a re .

D ie s s c h ei n t a u f e in e A r t M i t l e l p un kt z u zu st r e be n , a be r e s s c he in l n ur s o - a lsT ro lz de m s ie ht e s s o a us , a ls f i i h rt e e s a uf e tw a s h in , a be r d er V e rs uc h, h er a usf ii h rt , i s t u m s o n s t. I ch s te ll e m i r d a s g e r n a ls S c hw a rz w e i s s P e rs p e k t i v e v o r . T ad ie s e K a c he l n b ei w e i t e m in te re s s a n te r a ls d ie m e i s t e n B i l d e r, d ie z u r Z e i t i nw e r d e n, w e i l s i e v ie l m e hr P ha n ta s i e h ab en . B a s h ie r i s t e be n fa l l s v or d em n euC e b a ud e s .l c h g ja ub e , e s i s t s ow o h l e in M o t e l a ls a u e h e in H o te l. B e i s e le h e n G e bs c hw e r, z w is ch en e in em H o te l u nd e in em M o te l z u u nt e rs c h e id en . S ie s ch ei n ens ch ne id en , s ic h i n e i n an d e r z u v e r li e re n u nd g eg en se it i g a u i z uh e b en ,. s o d a s s m a nw i s se n k an n , w o m a n i s i.


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H e r e i s a no th er v ie w 01 t h e d ra w b r i d ge a n d y o u c a n s e e w h e r e t h e d ra w b ri d g e g oe s. N o w th a t i s a t i n y b ar a du al l y . I t' s v er y, v e r y c la us tr o ph o b ica nd 'i t 's b ee n c lo se d d ow n . I j u s t l o v e t h is v ie w . I t h in k . t h a t t h is s us pe n s io nb ri d g e c ro ss in g t h is e m p t y p oo l, a nd t h en t h o s e m a rv e l o u s b ri c ,k w a l l s , t h eyj u s t o ff e r s o m u c h g r a t i f i c a t i o n; t h e t e x tu r e s a r e r e a l l y m a r v e l o us a n dr e al l y M a ya n i n s pi r i t I t h in k. A l s o y ou k no w th at t h e M a ya ns d id n ' t h av e t oq ua r r y t h ei r r o ck s t h ey j u st w e n t a ro un d a nd p ic ke d t h em u p o ff t h e g ro un db ec au se a ll t h e g ro un d i s j u st l o ad ed w it h a ll t h is b ro ke n r o ck . I t s ee m e dl i k e a m a r v e l o us w a y t o b u il d t h i n gs a n d I a m s u r e t h at t h ey d i d t h e s a m et h in g. A l s o y ou c an s ee t h at l i t t l e c atw a l k g oi n g a ro un d t h er e a nd y ou c ani n c h a r o u n d t h e r e a n d g e t b e t t e r v i e w s o f t h e i g u a n a s a n d t h a t s o r t 01t h in g . N o w if y o u im a g i n e y o u rs el f w a lk in g a cr o ss t h is d ra w b r id g e a nd y oug o t h ro ug h t h at l i t t l e d ar k d is u s e d b ar t h e r e a n d . . .

H ie r e i n e w e i t e re A n si c ht d er H i i n ge br i i e ke , u nd d a k an n m a n a uc h s e he n,w o h ln s ie l i i h r t . E ig e nt l ic h i n e in e w i nz ig e B a r , w i rk li c h s eh r k la u s lr op h ob is ch . S ie i s t n at i i r l i c h n ie h t m e h r i n B e ul e b. A b e r m i r g e la ll t d ie se A n s i c h lD e r A n b li t k d ie se r H i io g eb r i i t k e i i b e r d e m S c hw i m m b e ck e n u n d d e s w u n de rh a r a n M a u er w er ks i s t e in e w a h r e L u st . D a s s in d g ra nd io se S tr uk tu re n, a u si h ne n s p ri c h t w ir k li t h d er G e i s t d er M a ya . W i e S ie v ie l l e i c h l w is s e n ,m u s s te n d ie M a y a i h re S te in e n ie hl i n B r ii e he n a bb au en , s on de m s ie g in g e ne in fa eh he ru m u nd s a m m el t e n s i e v om B o de n a ul , d er m i t n rb or s l e ne m G e s te in l i b er si i t i s t. D a s s ch e i n t a in e g ra nd io se B a um e th od e g ew e .s en z u s ei n ,u n d i e h b i n s i e h e r , d a s s s i e e s s o g e m a e h l h a b e n . U n d d a n n i s t d a e b e nn oc h d er k le in e M a u er s im s , d e r a O S Sl l n h e ru m li l h rt ; m a n k an n s ie h d a r a u fb e i s pi e ls w ei s e a n d ie L e g ua ne h e r an p i r sc he n , u rn s ie b e s se r b eo b a eh le n z uk o n ne n .

N o w h e re w e c om e t o o ne o f t h e m o re i n ge ni o us a sp ec ts 0 1 t h is p la ce . E v id en tl y t hm in g p oo l a t o ne t im e a nd t h ey b ui l t t h is s w im m i n g p oo l b ut a ct u al l y , w h en y ou c oI h is n ob od y w a n ls t o s w im . T h e re i s r e al l y n o n ec es s i t y f o r t h at b ut I r e al l y l i k ep ar t u p a b ov e a n d t h at m o r e a d u lt p ar t b e l o w : i t s o rt o f p r o m i s e s s o m e t h in g bA n d , il t h ey d id f i l l i t w i l h w a te r y ou c an im a g i n e a ll t h e p eo p l e c ut t i n g t h e i r l e g s ot h a t c o m e o ut o f t h e s i d es . C o i n g a c r e s s t h i s p oo l y ou c a n s e e h e r e i n I h e r i g htp en si o n b ri d ge a nd t h at , I t h in k, i s r e al l y o ne o f t h e m o st u ni q ue l e at u re s. A l s os om e th in g l i k e a k in d 0 1 p e n l o r i g u a n a s s ca m p e ri n g a l I ar o u n d o I j u s l l i k e i t . I t i sa n d i t c a l l s u p a l l t h e f e a r s a n d d r e a d s o f t h e a n c , i e n t M a y an A z t e c c u lt u re , h um a s s s la u g ht er .

H i e r k o m m e n w i r z u d en r a ff in ie rt e re n A s pe k t e n d im s D r ie s. O f fe n s ic h t l i c h w o ll t eg en dw a n n e in m al e in S ch w im m b ec ke n, a nd d a h ab en s i e d ie se s h ie r a ng el e gt , a beO r t w i l l e ig en tl i c h n ie m an d s c hw im m e n . A b er i e h m a g d ie se n T e i l l i l r K i n d e r d a oI i l r d ie E rw a ch se ne n d ar un te r: e s w i r d i r ge nd e tw a s v e r s pr oc he n , w a s a b e r n ie h tw u rd e e s w i r k li c h m i t W a s se r g el i i l l t , k on ne n S ie s ic h j a v o r st e ll e n , w i e s ic h d ie Lf e n S te in eR , d ie a es d en W a n d e. n h er a us r a ge n, d ie B e i n e v er i e tz te n . I n d er r e ch te in e H a n ge br i i f l k e i i b er d em P o o l, u nd d ie h al t e i c ,h f u r e tw a s g an l E in m a l i g es .B e c k e n lU e in e r A r t G e he ge I i l r d ie L e gu an e g ew o rd en , d ie h ie r i i b er al l h e r u m la uf eD a s G a nz e h at e tw a s R o h e s u nd b es eh w ii r t a ll d ie I in g s te u nd S c h re ck n i s se d er aK u l tu r h e ra u l, i hr e M e n s c h en o p le r u n d M a s s e n hi nr ic h tu n g en .


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N ow h e r e w e s e e t h e p l a c e w he r e t h e b a n d u s e d t op er f o rm f r o m -a r a lh er n ic e CU ri e . .. c u rl in g . . . a c u rv in ge u rl e a & I u al l y .1 I h in k . I h a l t h e e h a i r l e ft I h e re i s r al h e rp o ig n a nl s ug ge st i n g th e l r a ns it o ri n es s o f t im e a nd t h eu n iv e r s e a n d a l s o y o u c a n g e t a b e t t e r v i e w o f t h es c af f o ld in g in I h e r o o f . A n d I t h in k th at t h is i s q ui t e ar em a rk a b le p ie ce o f c o n s t r u c t i o n , a n d w h e n y o u a re t h e r ei n P a le nq u e b e s u r e 1 0 g o a nd s e e it.

H ie r , a n d ie se r S ie ll e , p fl e gt e d ie B a n d z u s p ie le n; e inw u n de r b ar k ru m m es R u n d. l e h g la ub e, d er z ur i i e kg e-l as se n e S tu h l m a c h t u n s s ch m e r z h af t k la r , w i e v e rg a ng li e hZ ei t u nd U n iv er s u m s in d , u nd a u s s e rd e m b ek o m m ! m a nv o n d o rl a u s e in en b e s se re n E in d r u e k v om D a eh g er i i s t. l e hh al t e d as f i i r e i n e b em e r k en sw e r t e K o ns l r u kt i o n, u ndw e nn S ie n at h P a l e nq ue k om m e n , s oi l l e n S ie s ic h d ie seu n b e d in g t a n se h e n .

W e c o m e t o th e d an ce h al l . T h i s i s a d an ce h al l w h i c h i s i n op er a t i v e, o f c ou rS p a n i s h m o ss t h a i w a s im p o r t e d f r o m t h e S o u th e r n p ar i o f t h e U n it e d S ta te sh an g i n g f r o m t h es e r o pe s. T h e y d ec id ed I h al t h ey w o u l d j u sl m a ke th is s qu art h en j u st c 'o ve r i l a ll o v~ r w i t h t h is s c. a ff o ld in g o f w o od , a nd t h en o ve r I h e wt r a ns lu ce n t p la st i c . B u l a ll t h e c h i l d re n in t h e n e ig hb o r h oo d ju sl k ep t t h ro w inp la s t i c a n d ju s t b ro k e it a ll t o p ie ce s. I I s o r t o f d i sc o u ra ge d p e o p l e w h e n th e y wa l a n y m o m e nt s o m eo ne f r o m o u t s i d e m ig ht t h ro w a r o ck I h ro ug h a n d o ne o f th it b y a r o ck . S o t h e p op u l a ri t y o fl h e d an ce h al l d im i n is he db u l I I h in k I h a t i li n te ri or a n d q u it e s a t i sf yi n g t o m e a n yw a y .

J et z t k om m e n w i r z um T an zs aa l. N a li i r l i c h l s t e r n ic h l m e h r i n B e l r i e b . S eh eM o o s, d as a us d em S U d e n d e r V e re in ig te n S Ia al e n im p o r l i e rt w u rd e u nd n un a nh e r a b h li n g t . D i e M e ns ch en h a b en d ie se r e cM e o k ig e E in fr i e d u n g a ng e l e g t o n da b g e d ec k l ; d a r ub e r l e g t e n s ie e in e t r a n s pa re n l e K u n sl s lo ff p la tt e . A b e r d i e K i ns ch a f t w a rf e n im m e r w i e d e r S te in e a u f d ie P la tt e , s o d a s s s ie s ch li e ss li c h v o l l kh a t d ie L e .u te a b g es ch re ck t, d e n n d ie T a nl e n d e n k o nn le n j e de rz e i l v o n e in emw e rd en , w a s n ic h t g e r a d e l u r B e li e b l h e i l d e s I a n s sa a l e s b e i l r u g . A b e r i c h g la u bb em e rk e n sw e rl e r R a um , u n d e r g e f a ll l m i r.


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N .o w t h is l s t h e r e st a na nt w h er e I s p en t m a ny h ap py h ou rs d is c us s in g t h e r i s e a nd f a ll o f I h e a nc ie nt M a y . a n C od s wa n d N a n cy H o l t . W e d is c u ss e d m a n y t h i n g s. A c t u a U y , f h e o ld M e x i c a n G o d s w e r e r a t h e r c r u el . A s a m a t t e r o f l a c l t hi n te re st i n g c or n . . . e r . . . . . a g ri c ul l u ra l p ro ce ss e s. W h e n t h ey w o ul d p la nl c o m a nd s e ed t h ey w o ul d s a cr i f i c e a b ab y, a na nd t h en p la nl h im a lo ng w il h t h e e ar n se ed i n I h e g ro un d . A n d I he n w h en t h e c or n g re w a l i t t l e h ig he r, . t h e y w o ul d t a kes l i c e h im a U u p, a n d p l s n t h im a l o ll g w i t h t h . e a d o le s c e n t c o rn s p ro ul s . A n d I h e n w h e n i tw a s l u U y g ro w n a n d r e a d yw o u ld d o t h e s a m e t h in g w it h a n o l d m a n , s o t h at t h a t s o rt 0 1 g iv es y o u t h e f e e l i n g t h at l u rl l s i n M e xi c o . T he r e i sM e x i c o , a n o v er a U h i d de n c o n ce a l e d v . i o le n c e a b ou t t h e l a n d sc a p e i t s e l f . M a ny a r t i s t s a n d w r i t e r s h av e g o ne t o Mc om p le te ly d es tr o ye d, y ou k no w . I t h ap pe ne d. t o l I a r1 C r a ne a ft e r h e l e ft M e x i c o. H e j U m p e d . of f I h e b ac k 0 1 a b oa l i na n d w a s c o m p le t e l y c u i 1 0 r i b bo ns . S o y ou h a . v e to b e m y c a r e l u l w h e n y o u g o 1 0 M e xi c o s o t h ai y ou a r e n ot c a u gh ! uo f I hi s k in d o f u nc on st i o u s , d an ge ro u s v io le n c e t h ai i s r ea ll y l u rk in g i n e v e ry p a t t h o f e ar th . I t' s j u st I he re , e ve ry w he res o I h a t y o u h a v e 1 0 b e 0 n y o u r g ua r d a I a ll l i m e s. W h it e w e w e re l a l k i n g I n e re , w e w e r e w a i t i n g f o r 0 tit g u id e w h o wu s d ow n in to I h e j u ng le a re as a ro un d G u a le m al a . H e w a s o u i t e a n i n te re st i n g m a n a ct u al l y . H ip pi e s w o u ld g o d ow n a nc o ul d w o r k f o r h im f o r f r e e - a k in d 0 1 . ro m a n l i c f l o w e r - p ow e r . i d ea _ bu t I h is o ne h ip py ., h i s f i r s l d a. y o n I h e j o bc as t r a ti n g c a ll i e a nd s o h e q u i t . W e w o ul d j u st s p en d o ur l im e i n t h er e a nd i. l w a s l i k e a v er y l o ng l im e w e w e r e s pe ndA c t u al l y y o u c a n ' t b e l i e v e h ow lo ng I h e s e M e x i c a n a f t e r n o on s a r e , t h ey j u st r e a l l y g o o n a n d o n, a n d y ou r e a l l y c a na .v a t a rs 0 1 t h e M e x ic an g o d s, a nd t h er e a re m a n y a nd I h ey a re q u i t e f ie rc e . .S o , if y ou e ve r g o d ow n th er e I w o u l d b e o n

D a s i s t d s s R e s t a u r a n t, i n d e m i c h v ie l e g li i c k li c h e S tu nd en d am i l m b r a c h t e , m i l V ir g in ia D w an u u d N a n cy H o l t uN i e d e rg al l g d e r a ll e n M s y a G ol i h ei l e n z u d eb at l i e re n . D a h i k am e n e in e M e n ge D in ge l u r S p ra ch e . E ig en tl i c h w a re n d is ch en G o ll e r i i b er au s g ra us am . S o v er fi i g ie n s ie z um B e is pi e l i i h er b em e r l l e n s w er le M e th od en d es G e lr ei d ea nb au s. Wa us s ii t e n, o pl e rt e n s i e e in B ab y, z er l e gi e n e s i n S lu ck e u nd p fl a nl t e n d ie se z as a m m en m i l d em S aa tg ul e in . . W a r d as Gb is s e h e n g ew a c h . e n , n ah m en s ie e in en k le i n e n J t i n g e n , z er se h n iU e n i h n u n d p fl a n z le n i h n IU d en C e lr ei d e s pr ii s s li n gK o m e rn le re if , m a c h le n s ie d a s se lb e m i l e in em a lt e n M a n n. V i e U e i c h t v e rm i lt e lt I h n e n d a s e lw a s v o n . d em L e be n s ge fi i hh e r r s e h t , E tw a s i s ! i n M e x ik o , e in e s ti i n d i g l a le n t v o r ha nd en e G e w al ! i n d er L a nd sc ha ft s e l b s t , V i el e K f in s t le r u n d S c hn ae h M e x i k o u n d g il l g en d ar a n z ug ru nd e. H a r t C r a ne , z um B e is p ie l, s p ra ng , n ac hd em e r M n ik o v er l a ss e nh al l e , v om Hd ir e k t i n d ie S ch r a u b en u n d w u r d e v o ll k om m e n z e n et z t . M a n m u ss a l s o s e h r a u l p a s s e n , w e n n m a n n ac h M e x i k o g e hn ic h t i n d ie se r o d e r j e n e r A r t v on u n b ew u ss te r, b ed ro h l i c h e r C e w a l ! v en an g i , d ie i n j e de m K u b i k ze nt i m e te r E r d e ! au erd a, i s l s la n d ig h in le r e in em h er , m a n m u ss i m m e r a uf d er H u t s e i n . W i ih re nd w ir u ns d o r t a ls o u n le r h i e ll e n , w a r t e le nF ii h re r ,d e r u n s i n d en D s ch u n ge l b ei G u at e m a la b ri n ge D s o l i t e . E ig en ll i c h w a r e r e in r e ch l i n te re ss a n te r M a n n .. H ipw o ll l e " u m s o n s l f ii r i h n a rb e i t e n - e in e I y p i s ch r o m a nl i s ch e F lo w e r - Po w e r l d ee . D a w a r I lJ m B e is pi e l e in e r , d e r s ol l t eT ag b eim K a s I r i e re n d es V ie hs h e li e n; e r h al s o fo rt w ie d e r g ek u n d ig t. W ir h in ge ge n h ab e n u n s d or t e in la c h n ur d ie Z e ilw a r a us gi e b i g . M a n k an n s ic h g a r n ie hl v o r s le U en , w i e l a ll g d im m e x ik an is ch en N a ch m il t a g e s in d , s ie z ie he n s ie nh in ,m a n s ic h . i n a U d i e I nk am a ti o n e n m e x ik an is ch e r G o it e r v e r ti e ie n , d en n d av on g ib l e s j e de M e n ge , u n d s ie s in d a u s se rs lS ie a ls o j e m a l s d o r t h in g en en , s ei e n S ie a u f d e r H u t.

H e re y ou c an s e e I h e m o d e rn p ar t 0 1 I h eb u il d in g. I I s h 0 u Id b e s l a r l i n g t o t a k e s h a p e i n y o u r m in d a t t h i s p 0 i n t Y o u s h 0 u ldb e g eU i n g t h e p oi n t t h atl a m I ry i[ l g t o m a k e , w h ie h i s n o p o i 1 1. 1d u a U y. . T h e i al e re s l i f l g I hi n g a bo u l t h is w h o l e p la ce i s I ha l! he re is n o . p o i n t 0 1 r e st . Y o u ju st s ee t h es e t h in g s p u r el y a s s ca ff ol d s a nd r a m p s w h ic h s ee m 1 0 g o s om e w h e re . W e l l a c tu a l lyy o u c a n g o u p 1 0 y o u r r o o m b y r a m p . I t h in k I h at l h e r a w u se 0 1 I h e s t i c k s - I h al b ra c i n g u po l t h e u pp e r f l o o r w il l i t h ep ol e s a nd t h e b ri c ks - c ou ld b e a c om p le te I r i p i n i t s e lf . Y o u c o ul d r e al l y g el . i n vo lv ed i n t h at , y ou c ou ld d o y ou r w h ol e t h e-s is o n t h at , y ou k no w ju sl I h al t e ch ni q ue w h i c h i s a r e al l y d ir e cl s i t u al i o n . A n d a ls o y ou c an s e e .b ac k i n t h er e h ow m u rk y i ti s .. Y ou .c an s ee r ig h t t h ro ug h t h e h o l e l a s a m a il e r 0 1 fa ct .

H i e r s eh en S ie d en m a d em e n T e il d e s C e b i i u d e s. J at z t s oi l l e n S ie s ic h a H m ii h li c h e in B i l d v em G a nz en m a ch e n . k ii n n e n. V e r-s uc h e n S ie , z u s rf ss se n, w o ra uf i e h h in au s w i l l : D a s l n te re ss aa te a n d ie se m G e b i i u rl e i . s t n am l ic h g er ad e , d a s s e s k ei n e rf a ss -b a r e s Z en lr u m h . t. M a n s i eh l n ur C e ru st e u nd R am p en , d ie i r g en dw o h i n z u f i i h re n s c n e i n en . S o k on ne n S ie z um B e is p i el I h rl im m e r ii b e r e in e R a m p e e rr e. i e! Je n . l c h g la u be , a ll e in s ch o n d ie V e rw e n du n g d e r r oh e n P l i i hl e u n d Z i eg e l s te in e z u r A b s li i u u ngd er o he re n E la ge is l h oe hi n te re ss an t. D a m i t k an n m a n s i c h e nd lo s b es c ha ft i g en , e in e g an ze D o k to ra r b ei t s th re ib en i i b erd im T e eh n i k ,. d i e yo ll k om m e n d u r c h s eh au ba re V e rh ii J ln is se s ch a f ft . A u ss er d em s ie hl m a n im H i n te rg ru n d , w i e v e r ga m m e lle s d o r t ist, M a n k an n pr ak li s ch d u rc h d a s g a n ze H o te l h in d ur ch se h en .


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N o w I h is i s l i k e a c ra c k i n a l o w e r . I d id n ' l g el a p h o lo gr a p h o ft h e e nt i r e l o w er s o t h ai y ou w i l l h a v e 1 0 b e a r w i t h m e a nd a cc ep lI h is f r a g m en t o f t h e l o w e r . T h i s i s a c r a c ~ i n t h e l o w e r t h a t h asb ee n p al c i h ed u p, a n d y ou c an s e e t h at l h er e a g ai n i l i s a r a t h eri n g e n i o u s m e th od f o r p a t c h i n g u p c ra ck s . Y o u n o t i c e t h e X m a r ksg o i n g t h r o ug ll i h e c ra ck a lm o s t l i k e a s ti t c h , I m e an l i k e h er e w a sa w o un d i n t h is b ri c k w a l l a n d i l w a s c om p le te ly s e w n u p b y s o m ea rc h it e c t ur al s u r g e o n, w h i c h g iv e s o n e p a us e . . .

B a s h i e r i s t e tw a s w ie e i n A is s i n e i n e m T urm . I c h h a b e k e i nP ho lo v om g an ze n T u rm . S ie m L is s e n m i t a l s o e in fa e h ~ au be nu nd m i l d ie se m A u ss ch n i t t h ie r v o r l i e bn eh m e n . O e r R i s s w u rd eg ef i i c kl , u nd m a n k an n a uc h h ie r d ie i i b er a us g en ia le M e lh od ee r k en ne n . S ie s e .h en d ie K r e u ze , d ie s i c h a m R i s s w ie S ti e h ee n tl a n gz i e he n, a l s h aH e e s i n d er l i e g elm a ue r e i n e W u n d e g eg eb en , d ie e in A r c hi t e kt u r- C h ir u rg v oU s ta nd ig v em a h l h at ; d ak an n m a n n u r s ta un e n . . .

H e r e 's a n ot h e r s h o l o f t h e r a m p. Y o u c an s e e i l bet te r , T h er e i s a r at h e r w i s tf u l p a lm t r ee ta nd i l g iv es y ou I h e f e el i n g I h al y ou a re i n t h e I r o pi c s, a s en se t h at y ou h av e r e al l y m a d e i i , yd ow n t h er e a n d a r e s e ei n g p alm t r e e s f o r t h e f i r s l l im e . I d on 't k n ow , I m e an t h ai k in d o f dt h e p alm l e av es a s t h ey j u st s o rt o f d ro op d o w n , a n d y ou g et t h a t f e e li n g w h e n y ou a re d owd ro op in g f e el i n g . B u l, a ll h e s am e t i m e I h al y ou h av e t h es e p er i o d s o f a k in d o f d ro up in g f ee ne rg iz ed o nc e a ga in b y I h e f o rc e w h ic h e x i s ts i n t h e M e x ic an e ar t h a nd y ou a re p ro pe ll e dk in d s o f t h in g s . Y o u a r e i m m e d i a te ly g o i n g 1 0 r u n 0 0 .1 to I h e p y r a m id s a nd g o c li m b in g u p I he v er y lh in g, a n d y ou 'r e r e a l l y n ot g oi n g 1 0 h av e 1 00 m u ch t im e 1 0 d w e ll o n t h e d ro op i n g pI h ou g l l i l h a l i t m i g ll t b e a n i n te re st i n g I h in g f o r y ou t o s e e j u st a s a s ha pe , a s a f o rm , t h e w ao f j u st h an g s t h er e . Y o u w o n d e r w h y a cl u al l y , b u t a ft e r a w h il e y ou r e al l y s ta rt t o l o se i n tel o ok in g a t i t a nd y ou g o o n t o o th er I h in g s .

I n d i e s e r A u fn a hm e k an n m a n d ie R a m p e n oc h b e ss e r e r k en ne n . O o r t e i n e e in sa m e P a l m ed as s m a n d as G e f f i h l b e k om m t , i n d en T ro pe n z u s e i n , e s e n dl i e h g es c ha f f t z u h ab en u nd zL e be n P a lm e n z u s eh en . l e h w e is s n ie h t , i e h m e iJ 1e d ie se n E i n d r ue k d e r E r sc h l a ff un g b e im A n bh a n ge n d en P a lm b la tt e r, d a b ek om m l m a n s el b sl e in G e ff ih l d e r S c h la ff he il . A b e r g le ic h l e ii i gd ie E n er gi e , d ie a u s d e r K r a f t d e r m e x ik an is ch e n E .r de k o m m l , u n d m a n w i r d z u r ii c kg e s ch le ud ee h e . P l i i t z li c h d ra ng t e s e in en , h in au s z u d en P y ra m id en lU l a u f en , d ie T r e pp en h in a u i: z u s le iu b e rh au pt n ie M v ie ll e it , u rn u n l e r d en h an ge nd en P a lm b la tt e m z u v er w e il e n . A b ll r i e h d ac hla u f s c hl u ss re ic ,h , z u s e he n , w i e d ie B l a tt e r s ie h b ie ge n u nd h er a bh an ge n, e in fa ch a ls F o r mw a ru m , a be r n ac h e in er g ew i s s en Z e i t v er l i e rt m a n d as I n le re ss e u nd s ch au t n ic h t m e h r h ins ic h a nd e r en D i n g e n z u .


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O h , a nd h er e 's a n ot h er v ie w : t h e b ro ke n b ri c k m o u nd . A n dw h a t I t h ou gh l w a s i n te r e st i n g w a s th e w a y I h e g ra s s g ro w s

, I u p I h e r e , I h e w a y i t d i s a p p e a r s i n l o t h e m ou n d a n d y o u c a ns ee b a c k in lo t h e h ea v y f o li a g e . B e h in d t h a t i s t h e r e st a u r a n tt h a t w e j u s l t a lk e d a b o u t .

O h , l i n d h ie r i s l e in e a n de r e A n si c hl : e in H a u fe n k ap ul l e rl i e g e l . B e s o nd e r s i n t e r e s s a n l d a r a n f a n d i c h d e n G ra s b ew u ch s, w i e d as G r a s im H a uf e n v er s ch w in de l u nd d ah in te rd as d ic ht e L a u b z um V o rs ch e in k om m t . N o ch w e it e r h in te nl i e g ! d a s R e st a u r a n t , v o n d em w i r b er e it s g e s p r o ch e n h a b en .

A g a in i n t he s h a d o w s y o u c a n s e e o u r c a r . I n t h e b a c k y o u c a n s e e t h e s t i c k s , b u t i n t h e f r o n l t h e r e y o u s e e s o r tl i l l i e p il e o f c em e n t . I t ' s h a r d t o s ay e x a ct l y w h a t l h ey a re g o in g t o d o w i l h t h a t . T h e re i t i s , j u s t f o r i t s el f . I m e an Ia p il e o f c em e n l j u st a s c em e n t . I t ' s n o l g o in g a ny w he re , it's i u st t h e r e , j u st t h in k 0 1 it a n d d ig i l f o r i t s c em e n ln e sc ar e w h a t u se i i 's g o in g 1 0 b e p ul l o . I t j u st h ap pe ns 1 0 b e t h er e , a n d i t s b or i n gn es s g iv es i t a c er t a i n a m b ie n ce ,k in d o f m e a n in g th at i l m ig ht n o l o lh er w is e h av e. A n d i n t h e b ac k th er e y ou c a n s e e o ld b ag s o f c e m e n t, b ag s o fr e a l l y d es ti n ed f o r a ny s ec u r e p u r p o s e b u l j u s l p il e d u p th e r e i n a r a th e r n ic e s ta ck in g f o rm a ti o n . A c tu a l l y I h e s ta cm y s ou nd a rc h i t e ct u ra l a nd s tr u c t u ra l d ev ic e; y ou c an ju sl s la ck I h in gs f r o m n ow u n l i l k in gd om c om e . Y o u c a n h ab u il d in g : y o u d on ' I h av e t o c em e n l i t u p a cl u a ll y , y o u ju st m i x th e e em e n l a n d p il e I h e t h in gs u p . . . A nd t h e n o f c o ut i o n th e p il l a r I h e r e . T h er e i s a no th e r p il l a r- w e 'r e a ll f a m il i a r w i t h p il l a rs a c l u a l l y -a n d I h a t i s b lu n t , u n p re te n l i oa tt e n l i o n 1 0 i ts el f , i t d o es n ' t w e a r i t s a rc h i t e ct u re o n i t s s le ev e .

1 m S c h a tt e n w a re h ie r w i e d e r u n s e r A u lD z u e rk en n en . 1 m H i n t e rg ru n d s eh e n S ie d ie S ia n g en , a be r v o r n e s ie h t m a n ,H a u l e n l e m en t. S ch w er z u s ag en , w a s s i e d am i l m h ab en . E r i s t e be n d a . E r l u i n io h t s , e cr h a l k ei n e F u n k t i o n , a ls ol a ch s o , w ie e r i st , v ie ll e ic h l a ls I nb e g r if f v o n Z e m e n !. E ig e nt li ch i st e s a u ch z ie m l ic h e g al , w e lc h e n Z w e c k e r e r f il li ed a u n d s o l a n g w e i t i g , d a s s e r e in e g ew i ss e A u s st r a h l u n g, e in e n R e iz , e in e B e d e u tu n g h a t , d ie i h m s on s l n ie h t z uk as eh e n S ie a lt e Z e m e nt s ae ke , d ie l i i r k e i n e n b es tim m t en Z w e c k g e d a c h l s in d , s ie s in d a b e r b e s te ch en d s ch o n 3 u f g e sa n s ic h i s l i i b ri g en s e in e s e h r p ra kl i s ch e a rc h i l e kl o n i s ch e u nd b au li c he E rf i n du ng ; m a n k an n S ac he n y on j e tz t b isS ia p e ll a g e rn . D a ra us k a n n e in r i c h t i g e s G e b ii u d e w e rd e n : m a n b ra u c h l e s g a r n ic h l z u z em e n li e re n , s on d er n e s r em i sc h e n u n d d ie S a c he n a u f z u s ta pe ln . . U n d d an n h ab e i c h n a t U r li c h v e r g es se n , a u f d ie S ii u le n h in zu w e is en . D a i se ig en tl i c h k e n n e n w i r a il e d ie se B a u f o rm - a b e r d ie h ie r i s t g an z s ch li c h t u n d u n p r i i t e n t i o s , l e n k t d ie A u fm e rk sa m k es p ie l! s ie h n ie h t a ls A r c h i l ek lu r a u f.


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T h i s i s j u s l p e b b l e s i n a w a l l . W h en y o u I h i n k o f i i ,h u nd re d s o f p e bb le s j u s l b e i n g p la ce d y e r y g e n tl y i n to ac a s e m e n I. I k in d o f l i k e I h al a nd i l j u s l s o r t o f s u g g es I sa k i n d o f i n fi n il e s i t u al io n .

D a s s in d K i es e l s le in e i n d e r W a n d. S te ll " n S ie s i& h v o r,H u n d e rl e v o n K i e se ln , d ie s o rg s am S t i i ck r u r S l i i ck i n d ieW a n d e in g e la s se n w u r de n . I rg e n dw i e g e ta l l l m i r d a s, w e i le s e in e A r l U n e n d l ic h k e il s u g g e ri er l.

N o w w e a re f i n a l l y i n t h e l o bb y o f t h e h o l e l a nd l o o k in g ts om e lu r l l e s s w im m i n g i n I h e t u r l l e p o o l . T h e r e 's a n a llt o o , b u l h e d oe sn 't s e em 1 0 b o lh e r I h e t u rl l e s. I l ik e I hi n y o us ee l h i s t u r i l e p o nd a n d i i ' s a k in d 0 1 n ic e s it u a l i o n

J e l z l s in d w i r e n d li c h i n d e r E in g an g sh a ll e a n g e k o m m e n ,w i r i n e in e m B e c k e n S c hi l d k r ii l e n s ch w im m e n s eh e n . A uis t d a r i n , a b er d e r s ch e in l d ie S c hi l d k rt i l e n n ic h l z u s lo ree s i 5 1 e i n e a n g e n e h m e S il u a li o n , w e n n r na n h e re in k o m m ls e s S c h il d kr o le n B e c k e n .

H e r e 's a no th e r c lo se u p v ie w o f t h e t u rl l e s. H e r e a r es o m e o f t h e m . . . a l i l t l e r o c k t h e r e s o th a i t h e y c a nc la m b e r o n t o i t a nd . . . g e l s om e a ir .

U n d h ie r e i n e N a h au fn ah m e v on d en S ch il d k r O l e n . D as i n d e in p aa r . . . u nd d a e in k le in er F e l s e n, a u f d en s i ek le lt e rn k o nn e n, u rn l u f t z u s ch n ap p e n .


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O h , t h er e 's I h e l o w e r . O n c e a g ai n I c o ul d n 't g el a c o m p le te s ho t 0 1 t h e t o w e r . B u t , t h e r e i t i s , a n d I a m o n t o po f a n u n f in is he d rO I )l o r r oo m o r s om e th in g . T h ey 'd h o s edt h a t a r e a d o w n , y o u k n o w , a n d i t c o u l d m n b e l i k e t h ew a d in g p on d f o r p eo pl e w h o d on 't l i k e t o s w im . T h e t o w eri s v e r y i n te re s t i n g . I t c o n ta in s a k in d o f a s p i r al s ta ir ca se ,a s qu ar e s p ir a l s ta ir c as e . Y o u w i ll , i n t h e f u tu re , m a yb e

. . s e e . . .

A h , d a i s t d er T u rm . l e h h ab e i h n a uc h h ie r w ie de r n ur t e il -w e is e p ho to g r ap h i e re n k o n ne n, a be r im m e r h in . I c h b in a ufe i n em h a l b l e r t i g en 0 a c h 0 d er l im m e r . M a n h al t e d ie s e nB e r e i c h a b g es p ri t z t , u nd e r w u r d e h ir L eu l e , d i e n iG h tg em s c ,h w im m e n , s o ga r a ls P 1a ns e hb ec ke n t a ug en . D e rT u rm i s t a u s se rs t i n te re ss an t. E r e n t h al t e in e A r t W e n d e l-t r e p pe , e i n e r e c h te c k i g e W e nd e l t r e p pe . D em n ac h stw e r d en S i e v ie ll ei ch t s e he n . . .

T h i s i s i n te re st i n g , b ac k i n t h e g ar d en a ga i n . H e r e w e h av e s o m e b ri c ks p il e d uh o r i z on ta l l y r e st i n g o n t h es e b ri c ks . A n d t h ey s i g ni f y s o m et h in g. I n ev er f i g ur et h er e b u t i t s e e m e d t o s u g ge s t s o m e k in d 0 1 im p er m a ne nc e. S om e th in g w a s a bo uw e re j u st k in d 0 1 g r a b b e d b y i t Y o u ju st r e al l y l e lt t h at a ny m i n ut e s o m et h in g wI t w a s l i k e a s i g n , a s i g n f r o m s o m e t h in g a g e l e s s a c t u al l y . H e r e u p i n t h e f r o n tb od y's b a t h in g s u i t d r y i n g. T he r e a r e l i t t l e t o u ch es n ow a n d t h e n , a s o rt 0 1e l e m e n t o f m a n a n d n a t u r e a n d . . h u m a n i z e d g r a s s . B u t 0 1 c ou rs e y ou a re pn ow w i t h t h o s e d oo rs i n t h e b ac kg ro un d . T h ey a re s ti l l t h e r e.

D a s i s ! i n !e re ss an t, w i r b e f in d e n u n s w i e de r im G a rt e n . S ie s eh en a u f ge sc h i c ht e ter ec h t d ar ii b e r l i e ge nd en S to ck eR . U n d s ie b ed eu te n e tw a s. I ch b in n ic h t d ah in te ri c h d a w a r , a be r e s h an de l t s it h w o hl u m e \w a s V o r i i b er g eh en de s. I r g en d e tw a sg en dw i e l i e ss e s o n s n ic h t m e h r l o s. M a n k o n n t e e s f ii r m li c h s pi i r en , d a s s i e d e n As e he he n w ii r d e. E s w a r w ie e in Z e i c he R , e in l e i c he n y on e tw a s Z e i t l o se m . 1 m VB a de an zu g z um T ro ck ne n. H i n u nd w i e de r g ib t e s k le in e H in w e i s e, s o e in e A r t mn en te , s o e in e A n d e ut u ng v on M e n sc h u nd N a tu r u nd . . . v er m en sc hl i c h t e m G r a sS ie w a h rs ch e i n li c h d ie T i i r en im H i nt e rg ru n d. S ie s in d im m e r n o eh da


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T h is i s a c ,e rt a i n c ir !) ul a r g a r d en w i l h e le ph an t e a r p ia n l sg ro w in g i n i t , a s u nk en g ar d en a s a m a lt e r o f f a c t. A n d o f fi n t h e l e ft h an d c o r n e r , i f y o u l o o k v e r y d o s el y , v e r ~ h a r d ,y ou 'l l s e e t h e e nd o f I h e r e sl a ur a nt I h al w e l a lk ed a bo u t ,a n d t h en i n t h e b a c k , o nc e a g ai n , p er h a p s y ou r l a s t v ie wo f t h e p oo l, o f I h e d ri e d p oo l w i t h I h e s us pe ns io n b ri d geg oi n g a c r o ss i t . T h e w a l k w a y o n t h e s i d e i s v er y s o l i d lyb u i l t . . . i t 's l i k e r ea U y t h e r e. I f it r a in s y ou w o n' t g et w e t ,a nd i i 's r e al l y o ne o f t h e m a ny c on ve ni e nc es o f t h e h o t e l.

D a s i s t e in r u nd er C a rt e n m i t E le fa nt e no h r p fl a nz en , s o-l u sa g e n e in v e r se nk le r G a rt e n . L in k s w e rd e n S ie b e i g aR zg en a u e m H in s eh e n e in e ( e ke d es R e s t a u r a n t s e nt d e ck e n ,v on d em w i r s ch o n g es p r oc h e n h ab en , u nd im H in te rg ru ndn o e h e i n m a l e i n - v i e l l e i c h t l e t z t e r - B li c k a u f d a st r o c k en g el e g te S c hw i m m b e ck e n m i t d e r H a n ge b ri i c k e d a r -i i b er . D e r l a u b en ga n g r e c h t s i s t s e h r s o li d e a ng el e g t -e tw a s g a n z H a n df e s l e s . W e n n e s r e g ne t, w ir d m a n n i c h ln a s s , u n d d a s i s t n u r e i n e v o n d e n v i e l e n A n n e h m li c h -k e it e n i n d ie se m H o te l.

T h is j u s t g iv e s y o u a n i d ea o f a c er ta in k in d o f c u r vi n g o f b ri c k t h a l l h ey h av e. I I 's r ea g oo d t e n s eg ri t y p ri n c i p le o r s om e th in g . It w o uld h o l d i l s el f - t h er e 's a c er t a int h er e . G o od s t r u ct u ra l t h in k i n g. A n d i i' s n ic e, l i k e t h at t a bl e t h er e , i i ' s a v er y s ol it h er e 's t h at l a bl e . . . y ou c ou ld h av e a p ic niC o n i t b ut i l m i g hl n ol b e t h e b es t t h ini s , a nd t h er e 's a b o t t l e o f m i n er a l w a le r s il l i n g I h er e a nd s o m e n ic e s te el g ri l lwm a y be - I d on 'l k n ow , I e a a ' t r e m e m b er - a n d t h e n a l a d de r . T h e p la c e i s l o ad edt h at w a s t h e o n l ~ o ne I l h ou gh l w a s w o rt h r e co rd in g. T h e n I h e t y p i c al s l e el b ar s c at h e s i d e ; o n e w o nd er s e xa ct l y w h al t h e y w i ll d o w it h I h e s e b ri c ks , b u t w e m u s ! g o 0

D a s h i er v e r m it t e lt e in en E i n d r uc k v o n e in e r A r t g ew i i l b le r l i e g e l, d ie e s d o r t g ib l. Su n d v e rf ii g e n u b er e in e g u te T r ag f i i h ig k ei t . S ie h a g e n u od s ti i t z fn s ie h p ra k t i s ch s eg ib l e in e b es on de re A r t v on S p an nu n g u nd H a tt . E in e g u l e s tr uk tu re ll e i i b e r le gu n g .a u s , w ie d ie s e r T is c h b e i s p ie l s w e i s e , d i e s e s o li d en E le m e n t e , u nd d a nn d ie s e r Tk ii n n l e e in P ic kn ic k d a r au f m a c he n , a b e r e r i s t v ie ll e ic h l d o c h n ic ht u n b ed in g t d az ue r, u n d d a s le h t e in e F la sc ,h e M i ne ra lw a ss er , u n d e in s ch on e s e is er ne s G i t t e rw e rkv ie ll e ic h t , i e h w e is s n ic h l , i e h k an n m i ch n ic h l e ri n n e rn , u n d d an n e in e l e it e r, U b e rah er um , a b e t d ie h ie r s ch ie n m i t d ie e il l l i g e , d ie l u p h o t o g r ap h i e re n s ic h l o ho le . H nt y pi s c he n A rm i e ru ng se is en , d ie a ch tl o s a uf d ie S e i l e g ew o rf e n w u rd en , m a n f r a gte ig en tl i c h d im l i e g e ls le in e g ut s in d , a b e r w i r m u s s e n w e il e rg eh en .


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T h i s i s t h e t o p o f t h at s a m e w a l k w ay . I t ' s a l i t t l e b lu rr y b ut i t k in d 0 1 g i~ e s i t a no thm i g ht a ct u al l y b ri n g i t i n to f o cu s a t s o m e p oi n t, o r y ou c ou ld e ve n t a ke i t o ut o f fy ou k no w to t r } t h at . A c t u a l l y i t 's a n i n t e r e s t i n g e f f e c t b u t w e d on 't h a v e t i m e f ob et t e r t h i n g s t o d o. H e s t i l l h as n 't g ot i t i n to f o c u s y el . . . o h t h e r e w e a r e . Y o u c a no f t h i s . T h i s i s a k in d o f v er y s im p le s t r a ig ht a cr o ss l o ok , a nd y ou c an s e e a k in d od ir e ct n es s a bo ut t h e w a y t h o s e w h i t e b ar s g o a cr o ss t h e t o p o f t h a t t h in g. T h e n i f ys id e , t o y ou r l e ft , d ow n t h e r e y ou s ee s om e p il l o w s. T h ey a re c ol l e ct i n g r ai n . T h at 'sI t's j u st o n e o f t h o s e t h in g s . T h ey a re p il l o w s a s t h in g s i n t h em s e l v es .

H ie r s e he n w ir d en se lb en L a u be ng an g ~ o n o be n, e in b is s c he n u ns c ha rl z w a r, a be re in e a nd er e D im e ns i o n . M a n k ii n nl e e s d ur c ha us a n e in em b es t im m t e n P u n kt s e hu n s ch a r l s te ll e n; S ie k ii n n e n d as a u s pr ob ie re n . E s e rg ib t e in en i n te re ss an te n E f f ek tr e i c h t d az u n ie M a u s, e s g ib t W i eh ti g er e s. E r h at e s i m m e r n oe h n ie ht g an l s c ha rlj e tz t a be r. D a s eh en S ie d as D a c h. E s w ir k t s eh r s c hl i c ht u nd u nv er m i t t e lt , d ie Fd u r ch e in e A r t m i nim a li s ti s ch er D i r e k l h ei t a u s , b ea ch te n S ie d ie w e is se " Q u e r b a lR e c ht s u nt e n b ef i n de n s ie h e in p aa r K i s se n. S ie s a ug en R e g en w a ss e r a uf . D a s i s tti 0 n . S o i s t d a s d a e be n: e s s i n d e in fa e h K i s s e n , K is s e n a n s i c h .

T h i s i s i n te re st i n g h ec au se i f a ny o f y o u e ve r v is i t t h e m a jo r t e m pl e o f P a l e nq ue , i t i s o n e o f t h e f e wp yr a m id s i n M e xi c o w h e r e t h ey d is c o ve r e d a . t om b . T he r e 's a s t a i r w a y w h i c h g oe s d ow n i n t o t h em i d dl e o f t h i s p yr a m id , a nd a t t h e b o t t o m o f t h is s t a i rw a y i n t h e m i d dl e o f t h i s p yr a m id I h ey b ur i e dt h e o ld M a ya n K in g, a n d t h en t h ey f i l l e d i n t h e s t a i r w a y t h a i t h e y h a d b u il t w it h e a r t h . T h e y l e f t am o ld in g t h at l o ok s v e r ), s im i la r t o t h is , o n l y i t ' s h o l l o w s o t h at t h e s pi r it o f t h e o ld M a y an k in g s w o u l ds or t o f c o m e u p t h ro ug h t h is m o ld in g: a s or t o f a c ha m be re d m o ld in g y ou m i g ht c al l it . A n d t h i s i s a c-t u al ly t ru e . If y ou g o t o t h e t e m p l e o f P al e n q ue y ou c a n s e e t h is , b u t t h i s v e r y s a m e m o t i f w a s i n t h i st o w e r . N o w I d on 't k n ow w h e t h e r t h i s m o l d in g i s h o llO W o r n ot , I m e a n I d id n 't f i n d t h at o ut , b ut i th as t h at s a m e l o ok t o i t . A n d I t h ou gh t t h at w a s a r a t h er i n te r e st i n g t h in g .

D a , h ie r i s l i n le r e s s a n t, f a l l s S ie j e d e n g ro s s e n T em p e l y o n P al e n qu e b e s u ch e n : E r i s t e i n e d erw e n i g en P y ra m id en i n M e x ik o , w o m a n e in e C r ab st i i t t e e n t d ec k t e . E in e T r e p pe f i i h rt i n d ie M i tt e d e rP y r a m id e h ln un te r; a m F u s s d er T re pp e w u r d e d er a il e M a ya -K o ni g b eg ra be n, u ad a n sc hl i e ss en df i i l l t e m a n d ie T re pp e m i t E rd e w ie de r a u f. A u sg es pa rt b li e b e in e A b sc hl u ss l e is t e a hn li c h d er h ie r,a h e r i n n en h oh l, s o d a s s d e r G e is t d e r a lt e n M a y aK o n ig e d u r ch d en H o h l r au m h er au fs te ig en k on n l e ,e i n e A r t L e i s t e m i t I n ne n ra u m , k un n te m a n s a g en . O a s s t im m t w ir k li c h , im T em p e l v on P al e n q uek on ne n S ie e s n ac hp ri i f e n, a be r g en au d as se lb e M o ti v b ef a nd s ic h a uc h i n d ie se m T u rm . I c h w e i s sn ic hl , o b d ie l e is te n h ie r h oh l s i n d o de r n ie hl , i c h h ab e e s n ie ht h er a us g ef u nd en , a be r e s s i e h l g an zg en au s o a u s . U n d d a s s ch ie n m i t s e h r i n te re ss an t.


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T h es e p ic tu re s a nd w o rd s w e re u se d b y R o b e rl S m i l h so ni n a l e ct u re g iv en 1 0 a r ch it e ct u re s tu d e nt s a t t h e U n iv e r si t y o f U t a h , 1 9 7 2 .( E S T A T E O F R O B E R T S M I T H S O N , C O U R T E S Y J O H N W E B E R C A L L E R Y , N E W Y O R K )

T e d u nd H i l d e r e n t s pr ec h e n e in em V o rt r ag , d en R o b e rt S m i l h so n 1 9 7 2v o r A r ch it ek tu rs lu d en te n a n d e r U n i ve rs it a l i n U t ah g e ha lt e n h a t.

( iJ I Je f s e t zu l Ig : H a n s e l l)

T h is i s s o r t o f I h e d o o r . A I f i r s t y o ub ac k I h al i t ' s g re en , r i g h l 1 T h e re 's nc a n s a y a b ou t i t , I m e a n i i 's j u st a g rs e e n g re e n d o or s a t o ne t im e i n o urs en se o f u ni v er s al i t y I h at w a y, a s e nsc oh e s io n . T h e d o o r p ro b a b l y o pe n s t oo n n ow h er e s o t h at w e l e av e t h e H o tec lo se d d oo r a nd r et u rn t o t h e U n iv e r s i

D a si s l g ew i s se rm a ss en d ie T i l r . Z u n ach i n t e n f e s t , d as s d a e tw a s G r i i n es i sk an n n ic hl v ie l d am b er s ag en , e s i s tT ii r . J e d e r v o n u n s h a l s c h o n e i n mg e se h e n. S i e v e rm i tt e lt e in G e f i i h l v o ng lo b a l en Z u sa m m en ha ll . D i e l u r f in ir ge nd w oh in u nd s ch U e s s! a u c h k e i n enw i r d as H o le l m i l d ie se r v er s ch lo ss eu n d a n d ie U n i v e rs il al v o n U t ah z u ri i c k


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"l n the course of Time __ thr Col/rgr ofcartographers evolved a map of the Empiretha! was the same scale as till' Empire andthat coincided with it point fO T point. Lessattentive to th e S iu dy of c o rl og m p ll )', . 11 1 (-reeding Generations came 10 judge a mal}of suck Magnitude cumbersome, and, nottuilhtn)! l r reuerrnre , Ihl')' abandoned it tothe Rigors of 51111 and Rain. In the uiesterndeserts, tattered jragmrnlS of th Mnp arestill to befound, Sheltering an occasionalBeast or beggar; in the whole Nation, noother relic is left of the Discipline of Geog-raphy ." XE"[LLE H'A KEFnLD

J. A. Suarez Miranda: Viajes de Val"Ol/fsPrudentes, Book Four, Chapter XL\', Le-rida, 1658

YUCATAN IS ELSEWHEREOn Robert Smithson's HOTEL PALENQUEIn 1969 Robert Smithson, his wifeNancy Holt, and art dealer friend Vir-ginia Dwan left the Nell' York Collegeof Cartography-better known as thean-world-for the "we tern deserts"and lush jungles of Mexico. There,within the abstracted dilapidation ofthe Hotel Palenque, and some mirrorfragments placed around the northern

,\'E I'ILLE W AKEFIELD is a writerwho lives in New York.

Yucatan, Smithson unearthed the shardsofa map, surviving remnants of a Gold-en Age. Combed from the furthershores of a logos already weatheredand worn, their crumbl d metaphysitook on the aspect of an archeologicalruin. Lurking within the tattered ves-tiges of Western thought, he found notbeasts or beggars, but hypotheticalco 1 1 tinen ts and fie rce avatars of th eMexican Gods- Tezcatlipoca, derni-urge of the "smoking mirror," Coati i-

cue, serpent lady of the IIguardians and inquisitors of a sutterly decayed as to have itselfa new art of territory.Three years on, in 1972,

gorical form of this newtook shape in a presentationarchitectural Iaculty of the Uof Utah. More stoned than stin form, delivery and contentpears navigationally errant andLO drift. Cheating gravity, S

133 PARKETT


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gently mocks the nat-earth school ofexegesis. The architectural mas ofthe an ie nt Maya n ruins for whichPalenque is famous is all but ignored:its pull just another weak signal from apast already muffled by the alluvion oftime. Instead we are led into back-waters and fringe areas; the emptiedpool, evacuated dance-hall and mean-ingless passages that together made upthe Hotel where Smithson, his wife andfriend stayed. The guide books are ofno u e, says Tczcatlipoca. "You musttravel a: random, like the first Mayans,you risk getting lost in the thickets, butthat is the only way to make art."!' Theancient ruins are nOI to be found outthere in the jungle, but here in theHotel Palenque. crumbled, instamaticand nondescript.

Connected to the earlv Mavan site. ;by the shared lineage of ruination andrestoration, Hotel Palenquc takes theform of a Nnnsite, a discursive andramshackle web of imagery, conjec-ture, analysis and recollection, which-like the Hotel itself--lacks either fOCLlSor direction. Perambulator)' and mean-dering. the horizon lines of thoughtunfold as a series of impossible bound-aries, elusive limits that recede as theyare approached. Anecdotes, like hotelpassages, lead nowhere. Spatial andarchitectural certainties are left to dis-solve in the heat of the afternoon sun.Temporal and historical boundaries.denied the assurances of geometry,slump. "So," as Smithson remarks, "youget this kind of really sensuou sen e ofomething ext nding both in and out

in the end, and perhaps most satisfy-ingly, it is just a pile of cement-thereto be dug for its cernentness.

Almost exactly a year prior to thetrip to Mexico, Smithson made one ofthe first of a series of sculptural , \ ' 0 ' 1 1 -sites. A visit in J une 1968 to the slatequarries of Bangor-Pen Argyle in Penn-sylvania had left Smithson impressedby the oceanic and de-differentiatednature ora site within which all notionsof gestalt seemed to have collapsed.Drawn to the slate as the geologicalcorollary of a state of mind-slatebeing the metamorphic or ossifiedform of gyua, a dark and sedimentedsludge-s-and to the fact that the formof the site had been determined byextraction rather than addition, chipsof material picked lip from the quarrywere returned to the gallery anddumped haphazardly in a trapezoidalbin placed on tile floor. Accompaniedb)' cartographic and geological infer-marion in the form of texts, maps orphotographs, the "Nonsite ," as itbecame known, relayed what was tobecome a skewed and incompletedialectic-between inside and outside,visible and invi ible, form and form-lessness, determinacy and indetermi-nacy, centre and periphery-betweenSite and Nonsite. "A course of hazards,a double path made up oEsigns, photo-graphs and maps that belong to bothsides of the dialectic at once,":l) theNonsite dissolves the sculptural logic ofthe discrete object within the now un-stable \"C tors of space and time.

Like the fragmented map of theof time, something that doe n 't belong Empire. the Nonsite confound theto the earth and really something that synthetic resolutions of dialectical

is not the site itself, but rather its codition of depletion. This is Heisenberg's principle of sculptural LIl1taintv: It is the iron)' of protons fleeinthe instruments of the physicist andconfounding his aim; it is the fact ththe Nonsire leads nowhere, except tplace from which it came, a place nirrevocably changed. The dialecticspresence and absence, forced to faitself within this carefully constructedhall of mirrors, is like Medusa facinPerseus's shield, slowly turned to stonThus petrified it becomes geologanother stratum in the pre-historythought. Physical substance and reprsentational logic collapse into a singrubble. In place of the old axes of stial cartography we find a metaphoricalgeography inhabited by beasts and bgars, abandoned hopes and discardedsystems "Between the site andNonsite one may lapse into placeslittle organization and no direction.":'!

Clearly such a place was to be founin the Hotel Palenque, a contemporaryruin that mirrored the architecturethought in its rise to ruination. Caughb tween the cquilibrial forces ofconstruction and decay, the Hotel aallegorizes another collapse, thatvision. "If you visit the sites (a doubtfuprobability)," mithson said ofmirror displacements made durinthe same trip, "you find nothingmemory traces ... The fictive voicesthe totems have exhausted theirguments, Yucatan is elscwhcrc.t'+' Aso it becomes apparent that the SitNonsite relationship is also that ofpunned double, of vision and its couterpart, blindness. The Mayan ruins

is rooted \'ery much in the earth."2) thought. Extracted as well as abstracted which Palen que is famous are recordedAnd so we too might surmise that the from the material substance of the site, only as the distant possibili ty of a vmortar of some unbuilt future is abo the}' refer to it at the cost of altering it, from one of the hotel windows. nthe dust of an equally distant past, bUL and what is represented by the Nonsitc permanently obscured by the smok

134


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screen of time and defoliation. Thewonders of the observatories andtemples built by the Maran. remainshrouded, hazy and outshone by thearcheology of the present located inthe Hotel, The past, which, like astro-nornical bo lies, occurs long beforecrossing the horizon of appearances,belongs not to the pre-Spanish Indianmonuments but to the "geologiman-made wonder" of the Hotel. HereSmithson finds a more compelling andindeterminate horizon where the im-press of the future is received b)' thepas!. where meaninglessness and dis-integnllion cohabit with the old Mayannecessities of convolution and terror.

W ry ly s rUlinizing these strangeintersections, where architecture ofmind an hotel meet, Smithson minesthem for their aesthetic and narcoticore. This, after all is the place wherenothing happens, the zero panoramaof the present, a serpentine entropy

where the passage of ruined signifiersonly serves to suck us further into thecentripetal vortex, an immobile cy-clone. Here the present becomes theconjugation of near future and distantpast, the actuality described by Kubleras the "instance between the ticks ofthe watch. the inter hronic pausewhen nothing is happening. It is thevoid between events."?' Skewered onthe torpor of those long Mexican after-noons, Smithson's reflections on thede-architecturalising spirit of the Hotelbegin to collapse eutropically uponthemselves. As the old horizons of limeand space subside, new diagonals ofmeaning appear: fluid atlases made upof unlocatablc points and indetermi-nate meanings.

And so the joke P rhaps is on us.The Yucatan we hould rememberwas never here but somewhere else-asomewhere captured forever in 1517 bythe Spaniards landing on the penin-

I) "Incidents of Mirror-Tr ave] in the Yuca-tan," reprinted in Holt, ed., The Writings ofRobert Smithson, 94-95,2) Ibid., "The Spiral jeuv," I IS.3) Quoted from text accompanying Non-site (Palisades, Edgewater, New Jersey).1968, reprinted in Hobbs, cd., RobertSmithson: Sculpture (Ithaca, NY: CornellUniversity Press, 1981), 110.4) ec Robert rnirhso n , "Entropy and rheNew Monuments," first published in Arl-

forum,June 1966, reprinted in Til, Il'ri/i"gJof Robert Smithson, 9.5) "Incident. of Mirr o r-Travcl in t he Yuca-Ian," 103_6) George Kubler, Tlp Slwf'" of Tmp (;-..JewHaven: Yale Un iversity Press, 1962), 17.i) "Four Conversation- between DennisWhcekr and Robert Smithson. 1969-70,"in Eugenic Tsai, Robert Smithson: Unearthed(New York: Columbia Univcr i t)" Press,1991),97

+135

su la, misapprehending the wtered by the Mayans Ma c'ubahdo nut understand) arid decidithis was the name of the prThe ruins of Palenque becomthe protracted pause> thai lapunctuate each call for the nefault-lines in the continent ofHere the glacial drift of perand cogruuon causes ideas to bbe pulled to extremes of uscthe space of sculpture alternatelvpressed and attenuated. In thPalen que the traction of etru ths and steadfast geugra ph iTaken in b)' the rock hound'sof icienusm and the travelerspassage it i easy to forget thatjourney that de cribes a spacea domain of pure metaphor,area-e-ra region where logic ised-an irrational area't=-whereavatar of past and future chewwreckage of our imagination.


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..lm (null' derZri! (. .) entunrkelte die Schull' derKartographen eine Karle del Reiches im Massstab 1,1,dip Pimkt jiir Pu nkt mil dei Whk/irhileil iibereinstimmte.\I'miwr am Studium der Karlo{; 'aphie interessierte.Ipiilne (;1' IIeraIoneu beurteiltm ei ne Karle dieserCrone als unlrandlich !IIu/ i iberl iessm s ir - nicht a/werinr gnlli


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zerbrocke lnd, unvcrmiuelt lind un-definierbar.

harakrer eines Ones, an dem jeder bergs L J nscharferclauon: SicBegriff von Gestalt- zu zerfalle n Ironic del' Protoncn, die den

Verbunden mil der allen Maya-Sled- schien. Angezogen vorn Schiefer als menten des Physikers cntwischelung durch das gemeinsame Cczcich- geologischer Entsprechung eines so seine Plane d urch kreuven,netsein von Verfall undWiederaufbau,wird das Hotel Palenque 7.U einemUn-ort, einern uncinhculichen, losenGew be aus Vorstellung, Ver muumg,Analyse und Erinnerung, da - wiedas Hotel selbst weder einenSchwerpunkt noch cine Richtungaufweist. Frei umherschweifend lindmaanderud, ernfalte n sich die Hori-zontlinien des Denkens als eine Reiheunmi"lglicher Schranken, unerrcich-barer Grenzen, die, je naher manihnen kommt, desto welter zuruck-weichcn. Anekdoten, wie Hotelgange,fldlren nirgel1dwohin. Raurnliche unci

Ceisteszustandes - Schiefer ist ei nerneramorphe oder erstarrte Form vonG)'lla, einern dunklen Faulschlamm-sediment - unci fasziniert von del' Tal-sache, dass der Charakter dicses Ortesmehr durch Wegnehmen als durchHinzufugen von Material bcstimm:worden war, wurden Bruchstucke ausdem Steinbruch in die Galerie ge-bracht und dort ungeordnel in einerntrapezform igen Behalter am Bodendeponiert. Begleitet von kartographi-schen und geologischen lnforrnatio-nen in Form von Tcxtcn, Landkartenoder Photographien, eutwickelte die-

zeigt sich darin, dass der Ungeudwohin Iuhrt, ausser dorthinhcrkornrru, an oi run in zwisrwiderruflich veranderren On.lcktik von Gcgenwart lind Aheir, die innerhalb dieses skon: rruierten Spiegellabvriruhswendig ihr eigeries Antlitz emuss, gleichl del' Medusa, dieSchild des Perseus spieg,>ll unsam zu Stein wird. So versteineDialcktik /.\1 Geologie, zu einefen Schicht in del' UrgeschichDcnkens. Physisc h e Substan zprii enrierende Logik sun-zen

architckton ische ewisshciten sind del' scr VII-Qrl (Xonsite}, als er bekannt ein und dernselben TrumrnerhAuflosung in der Hitze der Mittags-sonne preisgegeben. Zeitliche undhistorische Crenzen, denen die Besta-

wurdc, so ctwas wie cine nichtstetigeund unvollstandige Dialektik - zwi-schen IHnen lind Aussen, Sichtbarem

Anstcllc del' allen Achse n derchen Kartographie finden wmetaphorische Geographie,

tigung durch die Geometrie verwehrt und Unsichtbarem, Form und Form- von wilden Tiercn unci Lableibt, fallen. So, sagt Smithson, losigkeit , Bestirnrntheit und Uribe- chern, allfgegebencn HofTnnngentstcht dicse An von wirklich sinnli- stirnmtheit, Zerururn und Peripherie - abgedankren Systemen ... Zwiscehem Begreifen von etwas, das sich aus- zwischen On und Un-ort. -Eine Rcihe und Un-ort kann man uber Sredehru, sowohl in wi au, serhalb der von Zufallen , eine Doppelschleife, ent- peril, \1'0 wenig Struktur unci kZeit, etwas, das nicht der Erde gehon standen aus Zeichen, Photos und Kar- Rirb tfinic zu linden iSI."Hund doch zutiefst in del' Erde wur- ten, die zu beiden euen der Dialektik Das Hotel Palcnquc Will' elell.,,21 So durfen wir auch annehmen, gleicllLeilig geh6ren,3) Iusl der Un-ort eine sok he Stelle, eine zeilgenodass del' Martel einer noeh fernen die skulpturale Logik des einzclnen Ruine, wclchc die Architekturunerbauien Zukunft gleichzeing del' Objekts innerhalb der nichi langer sta- kens in ihrer Entwicklung zumStaub einer cbenso fcrnen \'ergangen- hilcn Vektoren Raum und Zeit auf. hin widerspiegelte. Cebannthe it ist, abel' letz tlich , und das ist die \\'ie die zerfallene Kane des Rei- den gleichwertigen Kraftcn vgrossle Genugtuung, ist es nul' cine ches bel Suarez crschuttcru die n- deraufbau lind Zerfall, stein dAnsarnrnlung \'011 Zernent - dazu da, one die synthetischen Schlusse des auch fi'II' cincn andcr 11 Kollaals Zemem an sich bestaunt zu werden. dialektischen Denkens. Sowohl als des Sehens. Wenn man die

Fast genau ein Jahr vor del' Reise Extraktion del' rnatericllcn ubstanz sucht (was wenig wahrscheinlichnaeh Mexiko schuf Smith on eine derersten einer erie von Unort -Skulp turen(swljJl IIat Nonsites). Ein Besuc h del'Sc h ieferb ru e he vo n R(lngor,Ppl1 tI rg)'/pin Pennsylvania, im .Iuni 1968, be ein-druckte Smithson tief durch den

des Ortes wie als Abstraktion beziehensich die Un-orte insofern auf diematerielle Substanz, als sic dicse ver-andern. Was ein Un-ort reprasentiert,ist nicht del' ursprungliche On,sondern vielmehr sein Zustand des

ozeanischen und entdifferenzierten Schwindens, Das entsprichl '-leis n-

137

sagte Smithson uhr-r seine gescherr Spiegelverschiebungcnwah rend derselben Reise machdet man nichts als Spurcn derrung ( ,,), Die fiktive n StimrnTotems haben ihrc Argumcnchopft, Yucatan ist


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so wird deutlich, dass die Beziehungvo n On und Un-on dieselbe ist wiejene ihrer Doubles: de Sehens undseines Widerparts, der Blindheit. DieMaya-Rumen, die Palerique beruhrntmachteri, werden nur als en tfernte\1oglich keu e iries Bl Ickes aus einemHotelfenster wahrgcnomrnen: dieseFenster sind zudem imrner halbblinddurch den Qualm der Zeit und derRodungsfeuer, Die Wunder del' vonden Maya erbauren Observarorien undTempel bleiben versteckt, vage undwerde ausgesiochen \'011 der Archao-Jogie der Gegenwart, die sich irn Hotelzeigt_ Die Vergangenheit, welche - wieastronornische Erelgnisse - stattfindet,lange bevor sie am Horizoru des Sicht-baren erscheinr. gehort nicht den pra-spanischcn, indianisc hen :\,lon umen-len, sondern dern geologischen, vonMeuschen hand geschalfenen Wunderdes Hotels. Hier finder Smithson einena ttra ktivere nun d we irere n Hori zan I,11'0 das Vergangene seine Pragllngdurch die Zukunfi empfangr und \\'0Sinnlosigkeit und Zerfall sich mit denttppigen Wi nclrrngen lind Schreckender alien Mayakultur verbinderi.

Mil maliziosern Lacheln untersucht

tischern und narkotischern Erzgestein,Schliesslich ist dies auch die Stelle, \\'0sich nichts ereignet, das Nullpanorarnadel' Gegenwart, cine verwinkelte Gra-bungsstatte der Entropie, wo das fluch-tige Auftaucheu verfallener Hinweisenur dazu diern, uns uoch welter inden m5.chtigen Strudel - einen an Orttobenden Zyklon - hirieinzuzjehen.Hier wird die Gegenwan zur Verbin-dung von naher Zukunft und fernerVergangenheit, irn Sinn der von Kublerbesch riebenen Aktualitat als Momentzwischen Tick und Tack eincr Uhr ( ... ),die zwischenzeitliche Pause, in dernichts geschieht. Sie ist die Leerezwischen den Ereignisseri.a'" Gleich-sam durcbbohrt von del' Reglosigkeitje ncr langen mexikanischen Nach-miuage, beginnen Smithsons Reflc-xioncn uber den strukturzerstorendenGeist des Hotels cntropisch in sichzusamme nzufallen Im selben Masswie die vertrauten Horizonte von Zeitund Raum zuruckweichen, erscheinenneue Sinndiagonalen: nll.ssige Arlan-ten, besteheud aus nich t lokalisier-baren Punkren und ungcwissen Bedell-tungen.

M6glicherweise ist das alles nul' ern

wurde , als sie aus den \,\,'onen dMayas Mn c'ubak /lUI>! (Wir uerstehnicht} Yucatan heraushorte n und dProvinz diesen Namen gaben. Die Rncn von Palen que werden - vergleichbar den etwas zu langen Pausen Zschen zwei Bildern, die jewe ils dAbruferi des nachsten Dias kennzeich-nen - HI geologischen BruchfaltenKontinent des Denkens. Hier werdedie Ideen "011 den Glerscherstrornendel' Wahrnehmung und der Erken nmverforrnt oder zerdehnt bis zu dExtrernen der Unbrauchbarkeit,dern del' formgebende Raum abwechselnd kornprirniert und er weitert wirIm Hotel Palenque ist die Anwendungvon empirischen Wahrheiren uneiner starren Geographie ZUlU Schtern verurteilt. Verfithrt vom Versprchen der Wissenschaftlichkeit des Celogen und vorn Anspruch del' Reiseden auf Durchreise, vergisst mleicht, dass jede Reise in sich selbeinen Raurn beschreibt, einen Bereichdcr reinen Metapher, e ine n sturnrnenBereich - eine Gegend, in der dLogik aufgehoben ist - ein irrationaleBereich" 7) - . wo die Inkarnationen vV e rga n ge n 1 1e i t 1In e l Zuku n ft die ResSmithson diese merkwurdigen Ober- Wi [7. auf unsere Kosten. Wir soil ten unserer schiffbruchigen Phantasie

sch neidungen: Don. \\'0 die Archirek- nicht vergessen, dass Yucatan nie hier wiederkauen.tur des Dcnkens mil jener des Hotels war, sonder n woanders, ein \1\'0, daszusammerurifft, schurft er nach asthe- 1517 von den Spanier n festgehalten ((ibl'rselzul1g: SUS

Documents

Robert Smithson, Hotel Palenque