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HANOVER | ГАННОВЕР | 汉诺威 | هانوفر
Page 26
FORCE OF NATURE:
designers are drawing
inspiration from fowers,
plants, animals and birds
this season – and not just
for womenswear
DEUTSCHE UHRMACHERKUNST.1893
CHRIST jewellers and watchmakers in Hanover
Ernst-August-Galerie · Georgstraße 31-33 · Leine-Center (Laatzen)
www.christ.de
Welcome to Hanover
Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you
discover the very best of this lively German city. Hanover has much to
ofer, as our guide on page 36 reveals. Readers who appreciate world-
class fashion will enjoy our feature on this season’s enticing nature-
themed designs (page 26), and in this issue we also meet the Hanover-
based designer who is creating eco-friendly fabric out of milk (page 32).
SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader
that helps you save up to 14.5% when shopping in Germany. We publish
guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international
insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top
global brands you’ll fnd in Hanover. For the very latest information, visit
globalblue.com.
Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card – the
simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand,
and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit
globalblue.com/join.
Emma Cheevers
EDITOR’S LETTER
6
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GALERIA Kaufhof...
GALERIA Kaufhof Hanover –
at the Ernst-August-Platz
Welcome to the trade fair city of Han-
over, where royal history and modern
future go hand in hand. Your shop-
ping paradise of GALERIA Kaufhof is
located right at the city center by the
main train station. GALERIA Kaufhof
at the Ernst-August-Platz presents
fascinating worlds of goods that con-
vey new shopping pleasure with great
range and price competence and
comprehensive service offers.
We accept all major credit cards. If
you come from a country outside the
EU, please enjoy tax-free shopping at
GALERIA Kaufhof.
Please scan the
QR-code with your
smartphone to get
more information
about your GALERIA
store Han over,
Ernst-August-Platz.
Free WLAN
in our store!
galeria-kaufhof.deGALERIA Kaufhof GmbH, Leonhard-Tietz-Str. 1, 50676 Cologne
CONTRIBUTORS
8
Katie Byrne
Katie Byrne, SHOP’s
assistant picture editor,
studied contemporary media
practice at the University of
Westminster, specialising in
photography, and previously
worked in celebrity news and
picture agencies. She enjoys
helping organise music events
to support good causes.
Aaron Carline
New York-born graphic
designer Aaron Carline is
passionate about editorial
design and zine culture.
During his spare time he can
often be found in vintage
clothing stores searching for
rare fnds, watching David
Lynch flms or listening to
1990s hip hop.
Stephen Doig
SHOP’s former features
editor Stephen Doig is
now men’s style editor and
assistant luxury editor at
the Telegraph; he has also
written for Vogue, GQ and
the Financial Times. His
weaknesses include metallic
Lanvin shoes, red wine and
good cheese.
Una
Andrew Archer and Kelly
Thompson are the design duo
behind creative studio Una.
Their ability to develop and
refne concepts made them the
perfect choice to illustrate this
season’s SHOP Hanover cover,
which is based on our nature-
inspired fashion feature on
page 26. The illustration’s
foral background pattern
merges into the clothing,
showing the infuence of
nature on designers this
season. Andrew Archer and
Kelly Thompson have over 20
years of combined experience
and have worked with top
brands such as Apple, Escada,
Penguin Books and Nike.
Explore our archive of cover
illustrations at
globalblue.com/covers.
globalblue.com
ILL
US
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AT
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: UN
A
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BIR
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SHOPPING ISBETTER WHEN
YOU DO ITTAX FREE
Join Global Blue for free, explore your city, find the
best stores, and save money on everything you buy.
globalblue.com/join
10
SHOP FLOOR
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2015 Global Blue
E DI TOR I A L
Editor-in-chief
Emma Cheevers
PU BL I SH I NG
Publisher
James Morris
Chinese editor
Yuan Fang
Associate Chinese editor
Junjie Dou
Chinese contributing editor
Qingya He
Chinese editorial assistants
Yangzi Liang, Manqing Li
Chinese translators
Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi
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Anastasia Nemchenok
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Russian translators
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Dane Consultancy
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Patrice Janet
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Junior designers
Kiranjeet Kaur, Tom Knight
Content corporate production manager
Steve Brown
Corporate production coordinator
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Head of digital
Eamonn Leacy
Digital campaign manager
Iwona Wlodarczyk
Digital data analyst
Dian Liu
Digital marketing assistant
Anastasia Budieva
Product manager
Devesh Sankadecha
Developer
Mohammed Hakki
Digital production manager
Andrew Lugton
Production assistants
Olivia Chou, Sammy Ha
Chief executive officer
Jacques Stern
SHOP is published by Global Blue
Group headquarters
Global Blue SA,Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland
Corporate registration number
Deputy editor
Sally McIlhone
Cover illustrator
Una
Contributors
Stephen Doig, Josh Sims
Production editor
Caterina Mazzolai
Assistant production editor
Katie Muxworthy
Features editor
Hannah Lewis
City guide and lifestyle editor
Isabella Redmond Styles
Fashion editor
Ximena Daneri
Fashion coordinator
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Fashion intern
Danielle De Wolfe
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Chief sub-editor
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Copy editors
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Picture editor
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Assistant picture editors
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Senior picture assistant
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Global Blue Germany,Vogelsanger Weg 38,40470 Düsseldorf,[email protected]
Regional tourist office
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Products
14 Check Out
SHOP selects a standout piece from Hanover this season
16 Products
Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories
News
22 Shop Window
One store not to be missed in Hanover23 News
Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products
Features
26 Cover story: The Nature Of Fashion
From bold animal motifs to twists on classic florals, designers are looking to the natural world for inspiration this season. It’s the perfect trend for warmer weather, says Stephen Doig
SHOP | 11
Above: Qmilk fashion, made of fabric derived from milk, modelled by Anastasia Bresler
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32 Got Milk?
At her Hanover-based company Qmilk, designer Anke Domaske is creating fabric wonders out of waste dairy produce, as Josh Sims discovers
Guide
36 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Hanover
Essentials
42 How To Shop Tax Free
The simple steps to saving money on your shopping
Translations
44 Русский Перевод
47 美文翻译 يبرع 49
Souvenir
50 The essential item to bring home
CONTENTS
p.32
BE STYLISH FOR LESS. ALWAYS.More than 80 designer brands 30 – 70% of all year round.
Just 40 minutes from Hamburg and Hanoverdirectly adjacent to Highway A7, exit Soltau-Ost.
Open from Monday to Saturday 10am to 8pm
designeroutletsoltau.com
The Designer Outlet Soltau is a unique shopping village with architectural highlights such
as half-timbered houses with thatched roofs – the Heide- Häuschen – which give the centre
its very own charm. In this relaxed premium atmosphere more than 80 designer brands
invite you to shop in the open air – always at discounts from 30 to 70 % and right in
the middle of the beautiful landscape of the Lüneburger Heath between Hamburg and
Hanover.
CHECK OUT
14 | PRODUC TS
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 42
palette of shimmering turquoise, aquamarine and pink. Sophisticated, feminine and elegant, Sea of Sparkle pieces are perfect for any occasion. Swarovski was founded in Austria in 1895 by Daniel Swarovski, who learned glass-cutting skills in his father’s small factory and became a master of crystal. fmSwarovski Euphory ring, €299,
Karstadt, Georgstrasse 23, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 215 7521,
swarovski.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 39
DIVE IN
Swarovski’s seasonal collections never disappoint. Sea of Sparkle is both the name and the inspiration for the brand’s spring/summer 2016 collection, and this ring in beautiful bright fuchsia, deep green and rich royal blue would make the perfect addition to your summer wardrobe. The collection was inspired by the world’s seas and oceans, with colours and shapes that resemble aquatic plants in a colour
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Download the SHOP
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PRINT POWER
Choose a bold colour combination as the main focus of your outft – and keep everything else minimal
16 | PRODUC TS
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 42
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1. Michael by Michael Kors straw bag, €230, Horstmann & Sander, Georgstrasse 8, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 368010, michaelkors.com
2. Chanel blusher, €57, Galeria Kaufhof, Ernst-August-Platz 5, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 169 1865, chanel.com
3. Pomellato Nudo necklaces, €1,500 each, Delius, Kröpcke Passage 2, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 363331, pomellato.com
4. Urbanears headphones, €99, Gravis, Ernst August Galerie, Ernst-August-Platz 2, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)30 3902 2222, urbanears.com
globalblue.com
SHOP | 17
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5. Chloé Love Story perfume, 30ml, €57.95, Douglas, Georgstrasse 18, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 228 7990, chloe.com
6. Lipstick Queen lipstick, €21, Parfümerie Liebe, Karmarschstrasse 25, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 304711, lipstickqueen.com
7. Cos top, €59, Cos, Karmarschstrasse 17-23, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 5390 2658, cosstores.com
8. Marc Cain skirt, €149, Marc Cain, Luisenstrasse 7, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 360760, marc-cain.com
18 | PRODUC TS
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 42
THE FINE DETAILS
Accessories are essential to any outft, so choose wisely
1
2
3. Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille perfume, 50ml, €195, Douglas, Karmarschstrasse 26, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 363 1361, tomford.com
4. Lacoste jacket, €340, Lacoste, Karmarschstrasse 30, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 320250, lacoste.com
4
1. Chopard earrings, €2,930, Chopard, Luisenstrasse 7, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 360790, chopard.com
2. Apple MacBook Air, from €999, Apple, Bahnhofstrasse 5, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 9362 0700, apple.com
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CASUAL MAN
The perfect travel kit comprises camo print, jeans and a portable speaker
SHOP | 19
3. Tumi suitcase, €895, Horstmann & Sander, Georgstrasse 8, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 368010, tumi.com
4. Bang & Olufsen BeoSound Moment music system,
€2,195, Bang & Olufsen, Karmarschstrasse 46, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 322332, bang-olufsen.com
1. G-Star Raw shirt, €129.95, G-Star Raw, Ernst-August-Galerie, Ernst-August-Platz 2, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 169 5708, g-star.com
2. Tommy Hilfger chinos, €129, Tommy Hilfger, Ernst-August-Galerie, Ernst-August-Platz 2, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 169 4534, tommy.com
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Then you’ve come to the right place at C&A. Awaiting you here are the latest trends, ranging from sporty to elegant, as well as a truly special shopping experience. We offer our customers a large selection of ladies’, men’s and children’s fashions – of course always of the highest quality and at extremely low prices.
facebook.com/ca
In the mood for fashion?
visit us: www.canda.com
Hannover: Georgstraße 21
Вы любите моду?Тогда посетите магазины C&A. В наших торговых
центрах вас ожидают товары новейших трендов
в любом стиле от спортивного до элегантного.
Шоппинг в них станет для вас событием особого
рода. У нас вы найдете широкий ассортимент
модной женской, мужской и детской одежды –
конечно же лучшего качества и по самым
привлекательным ценам.
هل أنت راغب بآخر الصيحات؟
إذا ستسعد بما تقدمه محلت C&A. ستجدون لدينا أخر صيحات الموضة،
من ملبس السبور إلى قمة الناقة. وماعليكم إل أن تتمتعوا بالتسوق في
محلتنا. لقد عودنا زبائننا الكرام على تشكيلة واسعة من ملبس السيدات
والرجال والطفال ذات النوعية العالية وبأفضل الثمان .
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 42
SHOP WINDOW
22 | N E WS
Man and Sport lines. For spring/summer 2016, the brand looks to India for inspiration. Expect vivid colours and prints for women, and the off-duty safari look for men. Bogner, founded in 1932, is now represented around the world by 21 standalone stores and a presence in more than 50 countries. The Munich-based lifestyle brand has an enviable reputation for luxurious sportswear and fashion-led designs. thBogner, Luisenstrasse 9, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 450 0620, bogner.com
FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 40
BEAUTIFUL BOGNER
The new Bogner store in the centre of Hanover is an impressive space covering 400 square metres on prestigious Luisenstrasse. In line with the company’s ‘modern natural’ philosophy, the interior features extensive use of natural materials such as stone, bamboo and brass. The boutique stocks the brand’s full range of collections, including Sônia Bogner, Bogner Fire & Ice, and the Bogner Woman,
LUISA LOVE
Premium womenswear label Luisa Cerano is hugely popular in its native Germany for its immaculately cut, perfectly produced wardrobe staples; each collection includes key pieces such as the perfect dress, trouser suit or jacket. The brand’s clean lines and neutral colourways, as seen in the elegantly understated outfit below, mean pieces can be mixed and matched from one season to the next. Part of the Hauber textile group, Luisa Cerano was launched in 1998. Head to the exquisite Hanover multibrand store Liebe to see the brand’s spring/summer 2016 collection. rdLiebe, Karmarschstrasse 25, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 304711, luisacerano.com
FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 38
SHOP | 23
globalblue.com
PURPLE PERFECTION
Quality and affordability are at the heart of the Louis Purple philosophy. Founded five years ago in France by Gerard Losson, the brand offers exceptional tailoring for men who seek sartorial sophistication and elegance. A wide range of made-to-measure and ready-to-wear suits ensures clients will always be able to find the perfect outfit. The made-to-measure option offers more than 18,000 possible combinations – every detail, from the type of lapel to the pockets, can be customised to the customer’s exact specifications. September 2015 saw the opening of the brand’s first German store in the vibrant city of Hanover. thLouis Purple, Kröpcke Passage, Luisenstrasse 10-11, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 7635 7861, louispurple.com
FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 40
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Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 42
24 | N E WS
FOR THE GIRLS
To mark its 50th anniversary, Benetton has launched a global campaign to support a series of capsule collections that have been landing in stores over the past few months. The Italian brand has a long history of social commitment, voiced through powerful, hard-hitting advertising campaigns, and it also recently launched the long-term Women Empowerment Program initiative. The brand’s latest campaign
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KISSED BY A ROSE
The Body Shop, a leading UK beauty brand, is celebrating the British rose during spring/summer 2016. Look out for colourful stains for the lips and cheeks, and striking eye and cheek palettes. In addition to the make-up collection, seek out the Body Shop’s rose body care products which include the Exquisite Exfoliator, Ready Set Go Moisturiser, and Petal Soft Skin Instant Glow Body Butter (pictured, €17). rdThe Body Shop, Hauptbahnhof, Ernst-August-Platz 1, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 388 9740, thebodyshop.de
FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 38
focuses on five female models from different generations and backgrounds, carrying messages of emancipation and empowerment. The new clothing range, A Collection of Us, retraces each of the brand’s five decades of producing colourful knitwear – now woven using the latest cutting-edge techniques. rdUnited Colors of Benetton, Georgstrasse 24, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 301 7970, benetton.com
FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 39
globalblue.com
SHOP | 25
CALL OF DUTTI
Spanish menswear specialist Massimo Dutti has opened its first Hanover standalone boutique, bringing the brand’s new global store concept to the city. Covering over 880 square metres, the store is decorated in a warm and contemporary style, featuring walnut, brass, leather and dark marble. In line with the trademark aesthetic of Massimo Dutti’s collections, modern lines blend seamlessly with classic details, creating a stylish and welcoming space. Arranged over two floors, the boutique offers a wide selection from both the men’s and women’s collections, and is a welcome addition to the expanding fashion scene of the city. hl
FEELING FRESH
British cosmetics company Lush has celebrated the reopening of its second branch in Hanover. The brand, known for its colourful, fragrant merchandise and eco-credentials, has refitted the store with recycled and sustainably sourced timber. Visitors are invited to try the many testers on display and experience the unique products for themselves. Everything Lush makes, from bath bombs to make-up, hair
care to perfume, uses only plant-based ingredients. Since its launch over 20 years ago, Lush has pioneered fresh, innovative cosmetics, made by hand to the highest ethical standards. The company promotes fair trade initiatives, rejects animal testing and minimises environmental impact. To date, there are Lush stores in 51 countries. thLush, Grosse Packhofstrasse 15, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 4738 9435, lush-shop.de
FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 38
Massimo Dutti, Karmarschstrasse 17-23, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 515 1430, massimodutti.com
FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 38
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Lef: Gucci spring/summer 2016
OF FASHION
From bold animal motifs to twists on classic forals,
designers are looking to the natural world for inspiration this season. It’s the perfect trend for warmer weather,
says Stephen Doig
THE NATURE
A host of German designers have joined in this season’s celebration of all things wild and wonderful
28 | F E AT U R E S
Above (from lef): Louis Vuiton; Gucci, both spring/summer 2016
From the verdant foliage of the internationally renowned Herrenhäusen gardens in Hanover to Berlin’s sprawling
Tiergarten and Munich’s 900-acre Englischer Garten, Germany’s cities burst into life-affirming greenery in springtime. Germany’s parks form a rich part of its city landscapes, all the more striking when they are juxtaposed with gleaming high-rise skyscrapers and sculptural architecture. With spring also heralding a change for our wardrobes, it’s heartening to note that designers are bringing the outside in, infusing our style repertoire with pieces that embrace the botanical, the blooming and the wild.
Designers often mine the aesthetics of the natural world for the spring/summer season. But what’s remarkable about this spring’s offering, across menswear, womenswear and accessories, is the especially exciting, vibrant, fresh interpretation of the natural world.
/44 47
‘It was about a clash of cultures,’ said Kim Jones backstage at his spring/summer 2016 menswear show for Louis Vuitton. The collection married eastern and western aesthetics. ‘It was about vintage Americana alongside influences from Asia,’ explained Jones. This coming together was expressed
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30 | F E AT U R E S
Above (from lef): Marc Jacobs; Gucci; Aigner; Jil Sander, all spring/summer 2016
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by interpreting tropical forms of nature from far-flung, exotic locales. Jones is known as an intrepid traveller, and his designs saw storks swooping over silk bombers and shirting, cherry blossoms erupting into bloom, and capuchin monkeys peering out curiously from bamboo fronds; all to joyous effect. Jones consistently finds new ways to inject life and colour into his men’s collections, an area of fashion that generally veers towards the safe and standard rather than the bold and printed.
‘I think there’s definitely a push towards vibrant, vivid prints and a greater sense of adventure in how we dress,’ says Bill Prince, deputy editor of British GQ. ‘Botanical prints
and imagery of that ilk undoubtedly feed in to that.’ Who needs a tropical trek through the jungle when you can gain a sense of adventure through Kim Jones’s impeccable menswear?
At Gucci, Alessandro Michele continued to revolutionise the menswear landscape with his fluid, feminine designs, interpreted using the power of nature. Embroidered bouquets wound their way up suits, garlands were stitched onto lace around necklines, butterflies fluttered over sweaters and rainbow-bright stems, stalks, petals and stamens were blown up and printed onto suits. It was a similar story at Marc Jacobs, who dappled silk pyjama suits and shirts with blossoms and dashes of leopard print.
SHOP | 31
Germany’s designers were not to be outdone; a host of them joined in the celebration of all things wild and wonderful. At Hugo Boss, the house reimagined flower prints in its womenswear collection, using muted dove and slate tones, a refreshing contrast to polite pastel shades or bold splashes of abstract print. At historical German house Aigner, florals were realised in jacquard, lending them a three-dimensional quality. Creative director Christian Beck, in an innovative move, took his cue from under the sea, with starfish, crabs, tentacles, seaweed and shells picked out in lace. At Jil Sander, men’s shirting and shorts were dotted with tiny blooms, in a rare burst of frivolity for a
brand known for its minimalist aesthetic.Our wardrobes are increasingly technical,
not just in their fabrication but in their construction, design and print. This move away from all things sophisticated and city-centric towards the outdoors, nature and animal life perhaps speaks to our desire to connect with that increasingly distant part of the world in some small form. Whatever the reason, these nature-inspired prints and motifs lend a hint of wit and whimsy to even the most standard piece – what could raise more of a smile than a merry capuchin peering out from the undergrowth? Embrace the call of the wild this season. Your wardrobe will thank you
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GOT MILK?At her Hanover-based company Qmilk, Anke Domaske is creating
fabric wonders out of waste dairy produce, as Josh Sims discovers
Lef: Qmilk fashion modelled by Anastasia Bresler
It was, one might think, a life of two
imperfectly matched disciplines. Anke
Domaske was studying microbiology but
designing fashion in her spare time, so
successfully that, aged 19, she had her own
label that was selling well in Japan. ‘I thought
I’d have to decide between the two eventually,
but then something happened that helped
me combine them,’ says the Hanover-based
entrepreneur. That something was her
stepfather experiencing a serious illness and
finding himself suddenly allergic to the fibres
in much of his clothing. Domaske investigated
and developed a surprising solution: a fibre
made from milk.
She concedes that it sounds like a crazy
idea: taking waste milk which has been deemed
unfit for human consumption and processing
its casein protein to create a fibre. But, as she
discovered via a YouTube video, it has in fact
been done before, in Germany during the
1930s. ‘It was big for a while, until the ease and
cheaper cost of processing polyester basically
outclassed it,’ she explains. ‘That’s why not
many people have heard of it now. But when I
looked into it more I found that even then its
production involved chemical baths. And I was
after something chemically neutral. So many
of today’s fabrics, even the so-called natural
ones, have actually been treated with all sorts
of pesticides.’
After approaching various experts, who
told her that a chemical-free milk casein-based
fibre product probably couldn’t be made,
Domaske decided to try to make it herself.
Using a vat, a mixer and a jam thermometer
bought from a grocery store for €200, she
became a kitchen-table start-up. ‘I thought
/45 48
34 | F E AT U R E S
Above (clockwise from top lef): Qmilk founder Anke Domaske; ingredients for the Qmilk biopolymer, which contains the milk protein casein; Qmilk Natural Skincare’s milk-based creams contain all-natural ingredients; the brand’s fashion modelled by Anastasia Bresler
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that my studies would help because, even if you’re dealing with natural ingredients, it’s still a chemical process at work,’ she explains. ‘I have a lot more respect for textile makers now. Creating fibres thinner than a human hair that can survive a washing machine isn’t easy.’
After 10 months of experimentation, she had created Qmilk fibre, and clothing made from it will go on sale this year. And she has also explored the further potential of milk proteins in a cosmetics line of milk-based, all-natural base creams launched after three years of development.
Both the fibre and the moisturisers, claims Domaske, exhibit remarkable properties. The fibre can be turned into 100% milk-based cloth but also blends invisibly with wool or silk. It wicks moisture and is temperature regulating, making it extremely comfortable to wear all year round. It has the tensile strength of wool. It’s anti-bacterial, making it a potential material for hospital bedding or bandages. It’s resistant to both chemicals and flames, offering possibilities for use in technical clothing or in upholstery.
And as for the moisturiser, which
SHOP | 35
Domaske’s stepfather swears by, milk proteins have now been shown to regulate acids in the skin. ‘The stories about Cleopatra bathing in ass’s milk have now been proven scientifically,’ says the designer, who, while conceding that the cosmetics industry is notorious for making all sorts of grand claims, says it also reduces redness and relieves itching. She speaks from personal experience. ‘I’ve had skin problems all my life and now I don’t. So I’m very happy with it,’ she says. The same can be said for her customers, some of whom get through a pot every month. ‘Part of the appeal is the product’s simplicity. You look at the ingredients in most cosmetics and, unless you’re trained in chemistry, it’s hard to know what any of them are. We add some natural oils and that’s it. Like the fibre, part of society’s problem is that people use a lot of chemicals but don’t look into the benefits of natural products already there.’
Whether worn or rubbed in, Qmilk could hardly be a more timely example of what you can get when you do look into those benefits.
There is a demand for this kind of product now. ‘There have been two trends in clothing recently: one for less disposable clothing and one for thinking about quality and sustainable production methods,’ says Domaske. ‘And while the whole eco-friendly concept has had a dusty image, the last few years have seen that really change too. There’s a growing awareness of the chemicals used in both clothing and cosmetics – and a growing preference for not having them on our bodies.’
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36 | GU I DE
Above: Hanover’s Neues Rathaus (town hall) overlooks the Maschteich lake
Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Hanover with a look at two of the city’s must-visit destinations: its historic gardens and a premier fine jewellery store. Start with our recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team.
A Glimpse of Hanover
THE GUIDE
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GEORGSTR ASSE
GEO
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KÖNIGSTRASSE
PR
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MARIENSTR ASSE
BREITE STR.
HA
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BURGER ALLEE
R ASCHPLATZHOCHSTRASSE
LEIBIN
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LAVESALLEE
Designer Outlets Wolfsburg
ERNST-AUGUST-
MONUMENT
LEIBNIZ HOUSE
HANOVEROPERA HOUSE
HISTORICALMUSEUM HANOVER
AEGIDIEN CHURCH
GOP VARIETÉ THEATRE
HANOVERCONGRESS
CENTRE
TRADE FAIR HANOVER
HANOVERMAIN STATION
Maritim GrandHotel Hanover
Kastens HotelLuisenhof
City HotelHanover
Grand HotelMussmann
Central-hotelKaiserhof
Hotel LoccumerHof Hanover
Etap HotelHanover City
Team Hotel Plaza
STEINTOR
(T) STEINTOR
HAUPTBAHNHOF
CLEVERTORKRÖPCKE
MARKTHALLE/LANDTAG
THIELNPLATZ/SCHAUSPIELHAUS
AEGIDIENTORPLATZ
WATERLOO
Outlet Village
HANOVER
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Place Of Interest U-Bahn Train Station Hotel
Tourist Information
38 | GU I DE
LOCAL TIP: DER ROTE FADEN
The best way to learn more about Hanover’s
fascinating history and discover the city’s key
cultural attractions is on a walking tour. The Rote
Faden (‘red thread’) is a route through the city
designed with visitors in mind. The ‘red thread’
painted on the pavements of the suggested route is a
helpful guide that leads walkers around Hanover’s
architectural and historical monuments and
attractions, including the imposing Rathaus (town
hall) and the picturesque banks of the River Leine.
For more information, visit
roterfaden-hannover.de
U-Bahn Featured In This Issue
Shopping Centre/Mall Place Of Interest
Department Store
● T
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SCHILLERSTRASSE
MEHLSTR ASSE
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HANOVEROPERA HOUSE
GEORGSTR ASSE
KA
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SC
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BAHNHOFSTRASSE
MASSIMO DUTTI ●
COS ●
BLUE HOUSE ●
ZERO ●
ERNST-AUGUST-APOTHEKE ●
VERO MODA ●
MARC O’POLO ●
S OLIVER ●
DOUGLAS ●
VON DER LINDE ●
KRÖNER ●
I:BELLE DESIGN ●
LACOSTE ●
VOGELSANG ●
MEISSEN ●
ROSENTHAL STUDIO-HAUS ●MOTZIGKEIT ●
BANG & OLUFSEN ●
● LIEBE
● SPORTSCHECK
● AUST DRESS
● CITY-APOTHEKE
● VILLEROY & BOCH
● WÄSCHEKÖRBCHEN
● THORENZ HIFI UND VIDEO
Peek &Cloppenburg
Ernst-August-Galerie
KRÖPCKE
● ESPRIT● DESIGUAL
● MANGO ● NEW YORKER
● MOBILCOM DEBITEL● APPLE
● HE BY MANGO ● L’TUR
● TELEKOM● LÖWEN-APOTHEKE
● BIBA● HUSSEL
● O2
GOP VARIETÉ THEATRE
● B
UTL
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I:BEL
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AVID
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FOOT LOCKER ●SPARKASSE ●
HUGENDUBEL ●H&M ●
Mäntelhaus Kaiser
SATURN ●
Galeria Kaufof
Bahnhofstrasse, Karmarschstrasse & Rathenaustrasse
SELECTED SHOPS IN ERNST-AUGUST-GALERIE:
Bench Biba Bijou Brigitte Bose C&A Camel Christ Douglas Esprit Eterna Fossil G-Star Gerry Weber Geox Görtz H&MHorstmann & Sander Jack & JonesKraemer Juwelier L’Occitane Levi’s Lloyd Lush Marc O’Polo Mexx Pieces Promod Reserved S Oliver Snipes Swarovski The Body Shop Thomas Sabo Tommy Hilfiger WMF
SELECTED SHOPS IN MÄNTELHAUS KAISER:
Bogner
P.25
P.25
P.23
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Georgstrasse, Osterstrasse & Kröpckepassage
KR AMERS TR ASSE
K
NO
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EN
HA
UE
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TR
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SCHUHSTRASSE
LUIS
EN
ST
RA
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OSTERSTRASSE
SCHILLERSTRASSE
MEHLSTR ASSE
AN
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A
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BÖ
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HANOVER
OPERA HOUSE
GEO
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GEORGSTR ASSE
KA
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BAHNHOFSTRASSE
ERNST-AUGUST-PL ATZ
OSTER
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● C
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MU
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●
STO
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DONNA ●
WHITE AND NIGHT ●
ELGIN SIEMENS JUWELEN ●
EMMA LUXURY WEAR●
SHOEHOUSE●
ROECKL ●
OPTIKER STAUDE ●
CHARLOTTE HANOVER ●
SØR OSCAR LENIUS ●
TRIUMPH ●
BASLER ●
MAUCK ●
WEITZ ●
LEIBNIZ APOTHEKE●
ELÉGANCE ●
HORST STICHNOTH ●
HORSTMANN
& SANDER ●
BEC
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& F
LÖG
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OP
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FOR
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8 ●
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PR
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EU
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PRIMARK ●
GOLF HOUSE ●
WERNER UND WERNER ●
TCHIBO ●
JOBST ●
CALIDA ●
VON DER LINDE ●
BETTEN RAYMOND ●
INGRID WEIS ●LOTHAR JOHN
TISCHKULTUR ●
KRÖPCKE● CLAUDIO SCHUHE
HEINRICH DAMEN-
● UND HERRENMODEN
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MO
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LAN
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JUWELIER ● SCHRADER
Café Kröpcke
Peek &Cloppenburg
Karstadt
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P.50
Café
WEMPE
Statement jewellery is a key trend this season and Wempe’s spring/summer 2016 collection is nothing short of dazzling. Distinctive, eyecatching highlights include the Revival By Kim necklace, a chic, contemporary take on the classic curb-link chain necklace. This classic 1970s style has been redesigned in feminine rose gold and combines a bold handmade link chain with a solid necklace. For evening, jewellery fans should seek out By Kim’s exquisite Colonna cocktail rings, adorned with a sizeable tourmaline in either sea green or purple, as well as the spectacular haute joaillerie bracelet whose sapphire and diamond design was inspired by the crest of a wave.Wempe, Georgstrasse 27, 30159 Hanover,
+49 (0)511 326988, wempe.com
P.14
P.24
40 | GU I DE
Seilwinderstrasse, Grosse Packhofstrasse & Luisenstrasse
● LIW
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OSTERSTRASSE
SCHILLERSTR ASSE
MEHLSTR ASSE
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JOACHIMSTRASSE
HANOVER
OPERA HOUSE
GEORGSTR ASSE
SOPHIENSTR ASSE
B
AHNHOFSTRASSE
ERNST-AUGUST-PLATZ
GEO
RG
STRA
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Galerie Luise
● PINOCCHIO● TIMBERLAND
● HUNKEMÖLLER
ACCESSORIZE/ ● MONSOON
● WORMLAND
● SALAMANDER
● BONITA
● HALLHUBER
● ROLAND SCHUHE
● WMF
● ZARA
BIJOU BRIGITTE ●
DEERBERG ●
● SCHUH-NEUMANN● MAX SPORTS HANNOVER
● SIGNUM STORE
KRÖPCKE
CHOPARD ●
KAUFLUST ●
MARC CAIN ●
BOGNER ●
HERMÉS ●
SCHLÖSSER ●PFEIFENSTUDIO
MÜHLHAUSEN ●BANG & OLUFSEN ●
MONTBLANC ●LOUIS ●
PURPLE
GERRY WEBER ●
GÖRTZ ●
SEILW
INDERSTR.
G
RO
SS
E PA
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HO
FSTR
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SEKarstadt
KarstadtSports
Galeria Kaufof
● RENÉ LEZARD
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Featured In This Issue
Shopping Centre/Mall Place Of Interest
Department Store
SELECTED SHOPS IN GALERIE LUISE:
BreeSörens Gisy Schuhe Sansibar
HERRENHÄUSER GÄRTEN
The Herrenhäuser gardens are an integral part of Hanover’s history and well worth the short trip just outside the city. These internationally renowned gardens are considered to be among the most important in Europe. The baroque design of the Grosser Garten, inspired by Versailles, is particularly fine and features classical statuary and an imposing fountain. There can be few more pleasant ways to spend a summer day in Hanover than wandering among the Grosser Garten’s impeccably clipped hedges. Herrenhäuser Gärten, Herrenhäuser Strasse 4, 30419 Hanover, +49 (0)511 1683 4000, hannover.de/herrenhausen
Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer
P.22
P.23
DAY TRIP
41
HOW TO GET THERE...
By bus
All bus lines take you to
the central bus station, which
is located at the northern end
of Porschestrasse, just a few
metres from Designer Outlets
Wolfsburg.
By train
Trains from Hanover take
30 minutes. Wolfsburg’s central
station is just a two-minute walk
from Designer Outlets Wolfsburg.
AN DER VORBURG
ELSTERWEG
BE
RL
INE
R R
ING
BE
RL
INE
R R
ING
PO
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CH
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TR
AS
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DIESELSTRASSE
WOLFSBURG CENTRAL STATION
CENTRAL BUS STATION
Designer Outlets
Wolfsburg
VFL-STADIONOPENING
TIMES
Monday-Saturday: 10am-7pm
Sunday and public holidays:
selected dates, see website for details
DESIGNER OUTLETS WOLFSBURG
Discover over 70 top international brands, from fashion, beauty
and accessories to chocolate and porcelain, at Designer Outlets
Wolfsburg – all reduced by up to 70% compared to
recommended retail prices. The centre’s architecture is
impressive, its boutiques are sophisticated, and service is friendly
and expert – this convenient location offers an unforgettable
shopping experience at reasonable prices.
Designer Outlets Wolfsburg, An der Vorburg 1,
38440 Wolfsburg, +49 (0)5361 893500, designeroutlets.com
By car
From Hanover, take the
A39 to Wolfsburg and turn off at
the exit signposted West/
Autostadt. Once you reach the
centre of town, follow the signs to
Designer Outlets Wolfsburg.
Train Station Bus Station Arena Outlet
WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD,SHOP TAX FREE
Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.
Spend a minimum of €25 and save up to 14.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.
[email protected]+421 232 111 111
When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Offices.
1. Shop 2. Claim
46 /
49
48
Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts.So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.
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Refund Ofce details:
Hamburg Airport Global Blue Refund Ofce, Terminal 2, departures, between gate A18/A20Berlin Tegel Airport Cash Refund inside Service Centre, Terminal ABerlin Schönefeld Airport Terminal A, departures, landsideDowntown Berlin KaDeWe, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24 Galeria Kaufof, Alexanderplatz 9Frankfurt Am Main Airport Terminal 1, Hall B, level 2, landside Terminal 1, Hall B, level 2, behind passport control Terminal 2, Hall D, level 3, behind passport controlFrankfurt Hahn Airport Travelex
PH
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AN
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AL
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/TH
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US
E.IT
FOLLOW US AT...
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ENGLISH | Р УС СКИЙ | 中文
VISIT US ONLINE... The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every
day at globalblue.com
Последние новости о роскошном шоппинге и путешествиях ищите на сайте globalblue.ru
globalblue.cn 每日更新精品购物信
息，分享海外省钱秘笈
44
globalblue.com
TRANSLATIONS
В этом сезоне дизайнеры обратились за вдохновением к матери природе, сосредоточив внимание на смелых анималистических мотивах и классических цветочных узорах в современной интерпретации. Для теплой погоды этот тренд просто идеален, – считает Стивен Дойг
От королевских садов Ганновера до берлинского парка Тиргартен и Английского сада в Мюнхене, протянувшегося более чем на четыре квадратных километра, – немецкие города с приходом весны начинает утопать в изумрудной зелени. Ослепительные парки составляют большую часть ландшафтов немецких городов, удивительно контрастируя с зеркальными небоскребами и живописной архитектурой. По мере того, как весна все глубже проникает в наши сердца и души, дизайнеры готовят цветочную революцию для нашего гардероба, главной темой которой будет природа и растительный мир.
Это уже не первый раз, когда модельеры черпают вдохновение для весенне-летних коллекций в природной эстетике. Что отличает модные коллекций этого сезона, так это особая свежесть и яркость передачи образов естественного мира.
«В центре внимания было столкновение культур», – сказал Ким Джонс за кулисами своего шоу-показа мужской коллекции весна-лето 2016 для Louis Vuitton. Коллекция объединила в себе восточную и западную эстетику. «Американское ретро тесно пересекалось с элементами азиатской культуры», – поясняет Джонс. Выразить такое единение полушарий помогла интерпретация экзотических даров тропической природы. Джонс известен своей страстью к путешествиям, и как следствие его шелковые рубашки и куртки бомберы пестрили
26: The Nature of Fashion
Природа Моды
изображениями летящих аистов, цветущих вишен и милых обезьян, выглядывающих из бамбуковых зарослей. Джонс не перестает искать новые способы сделать мужские коллекции более яркими и жизнерадостными в противовес многим консерваторам моды, боящимся выйти за рамки стандартов и традиций.
«Мне кажется, что наша манера одеваться заметно сместилась в сторону смелых, красочных принтов и приобрела более авантюрный оттенок, – говорит Билл Принц, заместитель главного редактора издания British GQ. – Цветочные и анималистские узоры явное тому доказательство». Зачем отправляться в рискованные путешествия по тропикам, если безупречные мужские коллекции Kim Jones могут подарить обладателю настоящий дух приключений?
Gucci и Алессандро Мишель продолжили преображать мужской гардероб с помощью плавных женских композиций и интерпретаций природных образов. На пиджаках теснились вышитые букеты, воротники пестрили гирляндными лентами, на свитерах с радужными швами гнездились тропические бабочки, а костюмы были усеяны стебельками, бутонами и тычинками. Похожая картина наблюдалась у Марка Джекобса, который оживил шелковые пижамные костюмы и рубашки красочными соцветиями и леопардовым принтом.
Немецкие дизайнеры нисколько не уступили своим западным коллегам, а многие из них сами поддались очарованию «цветочного безумия». Модный дом Hugo Boss переосмыслил цветочные узоры в коллекциях женской одежды, добавив сизые и аспидные тона для контраста с пастельными оттенками и яркими пятнами абстрактных принтов. Знаменитый немецкий бренд Aigner воплотил флористику в жаккардовых тканях, создающих эффект трехмерности. Креативный директор Кристиан Бэк в свойственной ему
РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД
45
инновационной манере создал кружевной коктейль из морских звезд, крабов, осьминогов, водорослей и раковин. Мужские рубашки и шорты Jil Sander покрылись мириадами крошечных цветов, нарушивших давнюю минималистскую эстетику бренда.
Чем дальше, тем более функциональным становится наш гардероб, и дело не только в совершенных тканях, но и в конструкции, дизайне и принтах. Такая тенденция, оставляющая позади замысловатые урбанистические элементы и довлеющая к открытому воздуху, природе и миру животных, похоже, говорит о нашем желании хоть как-то воссоединиться с той частью мира, которая все больше от нас ускользает. Как бы там ни было, природные мотивы смогут привнести долю остроумия и фантазии даже в самый простой элемент гардероба. Кто сможет остаться равнодушным при виде милого капуцина, удивленно выглядывающего из зарослей? Откликнетесь ли вы на зов природы в этом сезоне, зависит только от вас.
32: Got Milk?
Есть Молоко?
Анке Домаске и ее ганноверская компания Qmilk создают чудеса из отходов, – рассказывает Джош Симс
Возможно, кому-то покажется, что наука и дизайн – две вещи несовместные. Но это лишь на первый взгляд. Анке Домаске изучала микробиологию, а в свободное время занималась дизайном, причем так успешно, что к 19 годам уже управляла собственным брендом, имеющим немалый успех в Японии. «Я понимала, что, в конечном счете, мне придется сделать выбор между моими увлечениями, однако впоследствии случилось нечто, что помогло мне объединить хобби и работу», – говорит ганноверский предприниматель. Этим нечто оказался ее отчим, страдающий от серьезного заболевания, которое спровоцировало аллергическую реакцию практически ко всем волокнам и одежде из его гардероба. Домаске провела исследование и нашла удивительное
решение – волокно, сделанное из молока.Она признает, что такая идея может
показаться безумием. И правда, кому может прийти в голову мысль извлекать протеин из прокисшего молока и потом создавать из него волокно? Однако, посмотрев один из видеороликов на YouTube, она узнала, что эта идея не нова и была осуществлена в Германии в 1930-х годах. «Это было грандиозное открытие, но с появлением более простых и менее затратных технологии, таких как производство полиэстера, идея угасла, – поясняет она. – Именно поэтому немногие об этом слышали. Когда я стала детально изучать эту тему, я обнаружила, что даже в те времена производство не обходилось без массы химических добавок, в то время как мне хотелось найти нечто химически нейтральное. К сожалению, множество современных тканей, включая так называемые натуральные, проходят обработку пестицидами».
После консультаций с различными экспертами, которые заявили, что волокна из натурального молока вряд ли получится создать, Домаске решила заняться производством самостоятельно. Потратив 200 евро на весь необходимый инвентарь – кастрюлю, миксер и кухонный термометр, она начала свое дело. «Я знала, что моя учеба должна мне помочь, поскольку работа с натуральными ингредиентами требует знания химических процессов, – поясняет она. – Сейчас я стала больше уважать производителей текстиля. Создание волокна, которое будет тоньше человеческого волоса и не разрушится при стирке, – процесс не из легких».
После 10 месяцев экспериментов и испытаний ей удалось создать волокно Qmilk, одежда из которого появится в продаже в этом году. Параллельно она занималась исследованиями молочного протеина и перспективами его применения в косметической промышленности, результатом чего стал выпуск серии натуральных кремов на молочной основе.
Как утверждает Дамаске, созданные ей волокна и крема обладают уникальными особенностями. Такое волокно можно
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использовать для создания одежды из 100% молочной основы, а также смешать с хлопком или шелком. Оно не только может отводить влагу, но и служит регулятором температуры, что делает его невероятно удобной для использования круглый год. По прочности такая ткань не уступает шерсти, а ее антибактериальные свойства делают ее потенциальным материалом для производства больничного белья или бинтов. Ткань на молочной основе устойчива к воздействию химических веществ и пламени, что позволяет применять ее в спецодежде или обивке.
Что касается крема, который неустанно нахваливает отчим Домаске, то входящий в его состав молочный протеин способствует регуляции кислотного баланса кожи. «Истории о Клеопатре и ее купаниях в ослином молоке теперь подтвердились научно» – говорит дизайнер. Еще недавно она считала, что косметическая индустрия лишь делает необоснованные утверждения, теперь же Домаске изменила свою точку зрения и, исходя из собственного опыта, уверяет в том, что крем может убрать покраснение и ослабить зуд. «До недавних пор у меня было много проблем с кожей, но сейчас все позади. Так что я очень довольна», – говорит она. То же самое можно сказать о ее клиентах, каждый месяц покупающих по баночке крема. «Привлекательность этого продукта в его простоте. Если взглянуть на этикетку большинства косметических средств, то ингредиенты с трудом можно прочитать. Все что мы добавляем в крем – это натуральные масла. Проблема нашего общества в том, что мы настолько привыкли к химическим веществам, что уже забыли о пользе натуральных средств».
Продукция на основе Qmilk может служить прекрасным примером, того что нам пора вспомнить о пользе натуральных компонентов, подаренных самой природой. На такого рода продукцию уже сейчас есть большой спрос. «В последнее время в моде можно было наблюдать два тренда: один на одежду многократного использования и другой на качественные вещи, созданные по методу эко-производства, – говорит Домаске.
– И, несмотря на то, что эко-концепция уже далеко не нова, за последние несколько лет она набрала еще большую популярность. В обществе растет осведомленность о вреде применения химических веществ в одежде и косметике, также как и растет число людей, предпочитающих такую продукцию избегать».
47
美文翻译
26: The Nature of Fashion
时尚与大自然
从大胆的动物图腾到以创新手法演绎的经典纹样，
本季设计师们纷纷向自然界寻求灵感，对愈加温
暖的气候而言，这一趋势堪称完美。Stephen Doig
报道
从汉诺威举世闻名的海恩豪森王家花园中的青翠枝
叶，到柏林绵延的蒂尔加滕公园与慕尼黑占地900英
亩的英国花园，德国的城市在春日迸发出生机勃勃
的绿意。德国的公园是城市丰富景观的重要组成部
分，错落于各种摩天大楼与建筑架构之间更显夺目。
春天的到来不仅为我们的衣橱带来变化，设计师们
也将户外的春光引入室内，为时尚系列带来颂扬植
物与生命盛放的单品，令人心生暖意。
诚然，在春夏季节设计师们时常会从自然界汲
取美学灵感。然而在今年春天尤其值得一提的，是从
男装、女装到配饰全线，都可见到这种令人兴奋、富
含活力、充满新意的对自然界的诠释。
“这是文化之间的冲突，”Kim Jones在为路易威登带来的2016春夏男装发布会后台表示。这个系
列将东西方美学嫁接。“这是复古美国风与亚洲美
学影响的融合，”Jones解释道。两者的结合，通过从
遥远东方异国情调中提取解构出热带自然元素来呈
现。Jones是一名公认的勇敢旅行家，他的设计中包
括印有鹳鸟的丝质夹克与衬衣，烂漫盛开的樱花图
案，还有从竹林中好奇地探出脑袋的卷尾猴；一切
都洋溢着欢乐。Jones持续不断地寻找新手法为自己
的男装系列注入生命力与色彩，而这个领域传统上
来说，通常追求的是安全与标准，而非大胆与印花。
“我认为有一股潮流的力量，推动我们的着装向
充满活力的、鲜活的印花，与更具冒险精神的设计发
展，”英国版GQ杂志副主编Bill Prince表示。“植物印花与图案之流毫无疑问与这股潮流相契合。”既然
Kim Jones无可挑剔的男装带给你冒险的乐趣，谁还需要去丛林探险？
在Gucci，Alessandro Michele仍致力于以自
己流线型、女性化的设计改革男装设计的图景，并利
用自然的力量加以诠释。刺绣花朵环绕于西服之上，
领口周围的花边上缝有花环，毛衣上点缀着飞舞的
蝴蝶，彩虹般的花柄、根茎、花瓣与花蕊印花绽放于
西装上。在Marc Jacobs品牌同样如此，花朵与些许豹纹印花装点着丝绸睡衣与衬衫。
德国的设计师们也不甘示弱；他们中的大多数
都加入了赞颂野生美好事物的行列。Hugo Boss在女装系列中重新演绎了花朵印花，使用柔和的鸽子
色与板岩色调，与柔和的糖果色或大胆的抽象印
花形成令人耳目一新的对比效果。在德国经典品牌
Aigner，花朵以提花工艺手法呈现，赋予其三维立
体感。创意总监Christian Beck大胆创新，从海底生物中获得灵感，在花边中织入海星、螃蟹、章鱼、海
藻和贝壳等图案。在Jil Sander，男装衬衣与短裤被装饰以微型花朵，对这个以极简美学著称的品牌而
言，可谓是相当罕见的繁复奢华。
如今我们的衣橱变得越发有技术含量，不仅体
现于面料，也同样体现于构造、设计与印花中。这一
从纷繁复杂的事物与以城市中心，向户外、大自然以
及与动物相处的转变，透露着我们想在细微之处与
那部分渐行渐远的世界相连接的渴望。无论出于什
么原因，这些以自然为灵感的印花和图案赋予最标
准化的单品智慧与趣味——还有比探出脑袋张望的
卷尾猴更能引人一笑的吗？请尽情拥抱本季野趣的
呼唤。你的衣柜亦会对你感激不尽。
PH
OT
O: ©
GO
RU
NW
AY.C
OM
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42: When You Shop The World,
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畅购全球，尊享退税
Anke Domaske在她位于汉诺威的公司Qmilk中，
将他人的垃圾变废为宝、创造神奇。Josh Sims报道
人们或许会认为，这是生活中两个完全没有交集的
领域。Anke Domaske学习微生物学，同时在闲暇
时间进行时装设计，并获得巨大成功，19岁时她的自
有品牌就畅销日本。“我想最终我不得不在两者之间
做出选择，然而突然间出现了将两者结合的契机，”
这位驻扎于汉诺威的创业者表示。那个契机就是她
的继父罹患了一系列重大疾病，并发现自己突然对
自己衣物中的许多纤维过敏。Domaske经过调查研
究后，给出一套令人惊讶的解决方案：用牛奶制成
的纤维。
她承认这听起来是非常疯狂的想法：利用不适
合人类饮用的废弃牛奶，通过提取加工其中的酪蛋
白以制成纤维。然而，她在YouTube视频平台上发
现，早在1930年代的德国就有人做过类似的事情。“
这在当时轰动一时，直到被制作简易且成本低廉的
聚酯纤维取代，”她解释道。“这就是为何如今很少有
人听说过这种纤维。但当我进行研究后发现，即便在
当时，这种纤维的生产工序中也包含化学浸泡。而我
追求的是去除化学成分。在今日有诸多织物，即便宣
称是天然的，也在加工过程中施加各种化学试剂。
在接触各方面专家后得到的答案是，要完全无化
学介入制造牛奶蛋白纤维是不可能的，Domaske决
定亲自放手一试。她用大桶，搅拌器与花200欧元从
杂货店买来的果酱温度计，在厨房桌边开始了实验。“
我认为我的研究对人们很有帮助，因为即便你使用天
然成分的产品，在加工过程中仍有化学过程发生，”
她解释。“如今我对纺织品制造商有了更多尊重。制
造比头发丝还细、可以耐得住洗衣机清洗的纤维，是
极其不易的。”
经过10个月的实验，她创造出Qmilk纤维，用其
制成的服装将从今年起上市销售。她同时还在护肤
品领域探索牛奶蛋白的潜力，经过三年的发展，建立
起一条全天然牛奶基底乳霜产品线。
无论是纤维还是润肤霜，Domaske声称，都表
现出卓越的特性。这种纤维不仅可以制成100%以牛
奶为原材料的布料，也可与羊毛或蚕丝等材质无形
融合。它能够保持水分、调节温度，在一年四季穿戴
都表现出绝佳舒适性。这种纤维具有羊毛的抗张强
度。而它的抗菌性能，使其成为医用床品与绷带的潜
在原材料。它的耐化学品与防火特性，同样为其在科
技服饰或家居布艺领域的运用带来可能。
至于Domaske的继父也在使用的保湿霜，牛奶
蛋白如今已被证明能调节肌肤酸碱度。“埃及艳后用
驴奶沐浴的故事，如今已被科学证实，”设计师表示，
她在批判护肤品行业以各种夸大其词而臭名昭著的
同时，强调自己的产品同时可以缓解红肿与止痒。她
以个人体验背书。“我过去一直都有皮肤问题，但如今
已不再受其困扰。所以我对该产品非常满意，”她表
示。许多她的顾客也有同样体会，有些人每月都用一
大罐。“吸引力部分来自于产品的单纯性。除非你是
接受过化学训练的专业人士，否则去看多数化妆品的
成分表，都看不出所以然。而我们只在产品中添加一
些天然油脂，仅此而已。就像牛奶纤维一样，当今社
会的一大问题是，人们大量使用化学物质，却忽视天
然产品已然存在的功效。”
无论是穿在身上还是涂在脸上，Qmilk是帮助人
们获得这种天然功效的最佳实例。这类产品的需求
如今与日俱增。“在制衣行业近期有两大趋势：一是
减少生产一次性服装，一是反思品质与可持续生产
方式，”Domaske指出。“虽说从整体而言环保概念已
经是老生常谈，但在过去几年中变化着实在发生着。
在服装与护肤领域，人们对于化学品使用的关注日
益增长——也越发倾向于不使其接触自己的身体。”
32: Got Milk?
牛奶亦时尚
49
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ترجمة باللغة العربيّة
The Nature of Fashion: 26
طبيعة الموضة
من الشكال البارزة الستوحاة من الحيوانات إل التصاميم البتكرة الرتكزة عل الزهار، يلجأ الصّممون هذا الوسم إل الطبيعة ة لناٍخ أكث دفئاً، عل حّد باحثي عن اللهام. إنّها الوضة الثاليّ
Stephen Doig تعبي
ة الشهرة ف من ُخضة حدائق Herrenhäusen العاليّهانوفر إل حديقة Tiergarten الشاسعة ف برلي وحديقة Englischer Garten عل امتداد 900 هكتار ف ميونخ،
يكسو الخضار مدن ألانيا ف الربيع ُمِبزاً حيويّتها. تشّكل منتزهات ألانيا جزءاً كبياً من مساحات الدن ويزداد رونقها بجوار
ة مبتكرة. ونتيجة ناطحات سحاٍب شاهقة لّاعة وأعملً هندسيّالتغيي الذي يُحدثه الربيع ف مجموعات ملبسنا أيضاً، ل يسعنا إل أن نلحظ ما يقوم به الصّممون من خلل حمل الطبيعة إل
الداخل، مازجي أسلوبنا بقطعٍ ترتكز عل النبات والزهار.ة غالباً ما يستخرج الصّممون من الطبيعة عناص جمليّلجموعات الربيع/الصيف. واللفت للنتباه ف ملبس الرجال
والنساء والكسسوارات ف الربيع هو ترجمتها البارزة للعال Louis ف كواليس عرض أزياء Kim Jones الطبيعي. قال
Vuitton الرجاليّة لربيع/صيف 2016: “تحورت الجموعة حول ة. ة والغربيّ ة الشقيّ صاع الثقافات”. دمجت بي العايي الجمليّ
وأضاف: “تحورت حول الرث الم”ك مع بعض التأث”ات السيويّة.” وقد تّم التعب” عن هذا الدمج من خلل رموز الطبيعة
Jones ة ف أماكن بعيدة فريدة من نوعها. يشتهر الستوا“يّبأسفاره الغامرة وقد تضّمنت تصاميمه طيوراً تجتاح ستاٍت
حريريّة وقمصاناً وأزهار كرٍز تتفتّح وِقردة تطّل بفضوٍل من خلف أوراق الخيزران. ولطالا وجد Jones طرقاً جديدة ليبعث الحياة ة، وهو مجال أزياء ييل بالعادة إل واللوان ف مجموعاته الرجاليّالسلوب المن واللتزام بالعاي” بدلً من اعتمد الجرأة والرسوم.يقول Bill Prince، نا“ب محّرر British GQ: “أعتقد
أنّنا نتّجه إل طريقة لبٍس حيويّة مفعمة بالنقوش وحّس الغامرة. ول شّك أّن النقوش والصور الرتبطة بالنبات تشّكل جزءاً منها.”
فمن قد يطمح بعد اليوم إل نزهة ف الدغال ف حي يكنه ة الشعور بحّس الغامرة من خلل ملبس Kim Jones الرجاليّ
الرا“عة؟استمّر Alessandro Michele لدى Gucci بثورته
ة ة من خلل تصاميمه النثويّة النسيابيّ ف مجال اللبس الرجاليّالُتجمة عب قّوة الطبيعة. التّفت الباقات بشكٍل حلزون عل طول
البدلت وُدِرزت الكاليل عل القمش الخرّم حول الياقات فيم رفرفت الفراشات عل القمصان وتزيّنت البدلت ببتلت وجذوع Marc Jacobs أزهار ناصعة اللوان. ل يكن الوضع مختلفاً لدى
الذي أضاف إل بعض بدلته وقمصانه الحريريّة أزهاراً وبعض نقوش الفهد.
ول يتفّوق أحد عل الصّممي اللان ف هذا الجال، إذ شارك البعض منهم ف ترسيخ كّل ما هو غريب ومذهل. أعاد دار
ة Hugo Boss تخيّل رسوم الزهور ف مجموعته للملبس النسا“يّ
مستخدماً ألواناً باهتة وداكنة وذلك كنقيٍض حيوي لللوان الخفيفة ،Aigner الهّذبة أو النقوش التجريديّة البارزة. أّما ف الدار اللان
ة البعاد. استوحى فتجّسدت الورود ف قمش جاكار وظهرت ثلثيّمدير البتكار Christian Beck من عال البحار فجّسد نجمة
البحر والسلطعون واللّوامس والطحالب والصداف ف أقمشة مخرّمة. ولدى Jil Sander، ترقّطت القمصان والشورتات
ة بأزهاٍر صغ”ة ف موجِة طيٍش نادرة بالنسبة إل علمة الرجاليّة أكث فأكث تجاريّة تُعرَف بأسلوبها البسيط. يدخل عنص التقنيّ
إل ملبسنا، ليس من حيث القمشة فحسب، بل أيضاً عل مستوى الهيكل والتصميم والرسوم. ولرّبا كان البتعاد عن كّل
ة والطبيعة ما هو معّقد وُمُدن والتقرّب من الساحات الخارجيّوالحيوانات يعّب خ” تعب” عن رغبتنا بالتواصل بطريقٍة ما مع ذلك الجزء الخر من العال. مهم كانت السباب، تضفي هذه
الرموز والرسوم الستوحاة من الطبيعة حّساً من الفكاهة والغرابة حتّى إل أكث القطع التزاماً بالعاي”؛ فمن بإمكانه رسم ابتسامة
أكث من قرٍد فرٍح يستق النظر من بي الشج”ات؟ لّب نداء البيّة هذا الوسم فتُسِد مجموعة ملبسك معروفاً.
SOUVENIR
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in New York. The details are a focal point for the spring/summer 2016 collection, which uses silver fittings both in the bags’ construction and as decorative elements. Munich artist and designer Ayzit Bostan offers formal new designs in the women’s collection. fmPB 0110 shoulder bag, €699, Horstmann & Sander, Georgstrasse 8, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 368010, pb0110.de
FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 39
BAGS OF STYLE
Bucket bags make a big comeback this season and can be found in a wide range of fabrics and colours. This beige and cognac example from German brand PB 0110 was created by Philipp Bree, who launched the label in 2013 in Berlin and Paris. He has since collaborated with many respected creatives all over the world, including Andreas Murkudis in Berlin and Steven Alan
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 42
Now in HanoverBOGNER HANOVER Luisenstr. 9 bogner.com
