SHOP Italy Style AW15

Page 58

TIMELESS STYLE:

the garments that last for generations

ITALY | ИТАЛИЯ | 意大利 | イタリア

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WWW.INNIU.IT

EDITOR’S LETTER

8

Emma Cheevers

Athens and Thessaloniki

Austria

Austrian Alps

Barcelona

Belgium

Berlin

Cologne

Copenhagen

Чехия

Düsseldorf

Estonia

Frankfurt

French Riviera

دليل ألانيا德国指南

Германия

Gothenburg

Hamburg

Hanover

Helsinki Area

Holland

Istanbul

Italy

Japan

Lake Saimaa

Lebanon

London

Madrid

Malaysia

Milan

Munich

Nuremburg

Oslo

Paris

巴黎

Portugal

Prague

Riga

Rimini and Riccione

Rome

Seoul

Singapore

Stockholm

Stuttgart

Switzerland

Vienna

Vilnius

Welcome to Italy

Discover the best of this richly cultured

country with SHOP. Read about the covetable

products of its traditional yet forward-looking

stationers on page 68, the 40th anniversary of

Giorgio Armani’s eponymous label, and much

more.

SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free

Shopping market leader that helps you save up

to 15.5% when shopping in Italy. We publish

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Open a whole new world

Florence Milan Rome Venice

JAEGER-LECOULTRE BOUTIQUE

Rendez-Vous Night & Day watch

Carmen Chaplin, Actor and Director

10

globalblue.com

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Jack Hughes

Jack Hughes created this season’s

cover illustration for SHOP Italy.

His sophisticated artwork has

previously been commissioned

by Harrods, Burberry and Elle

magazine, among others. His

imaginative approach makes him

a perfect illustrator for this cover,

inspired by our feature about the

sustainable fashion brand Slowear

on page 58. It shows a stylishly

dressed man back to back with an

older version of himself still wearing

the same well-made jacket.

Explore our archive of cover

illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

Verity Hogan

After working for a Mexican

magazine and reporting in

Romania, history graduate Verity

Hogan swapped writing about

crinolines and corsets for more

contemporary clothes when she

moved to London to pursue

journalism. She now works as

SHOP’s features editor.

Sarah Beyts

Sarah Beyts, SHOP’s creative

editor and deputy picture editor,

is responsible for commissioning

the magazine’s covers, which are

created by some of the world’s best

illustrators. In her spare time she

enjoys exploring the countryside

on foot or by bike and capturing

the world through her camera.

CONTRIBUTORS

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Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2015 Global Blue

SHOP FLOOR

12

E DI TOR I A L

Editor-in-chief

Emma Cheevers

PU BL I SH I NG

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14

Above: lasting fashion from the autumn/winter 2015/16 collection by Incotex, part of the Slowear group

PRODUC TS

18 Check Out

SHOP selects a standout piece

from Italy this season

20 My Favourites

Menswear designer Luca

Larenza reveals his top tips

for autumn/winter 2015/16

22 Products

Key looks for the season,

from fashion and footwear to

jewellery and accessories

32 Street Style

Our pick of Italy’s best

dressed for autumn/winter

2015/16

N E WS

34 Shop Window

One store not to be missed

in Italy

36 News

Seasonal updates on shops,

services and new products

CONTENTS

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58 Cover Story:

Enduring Style

Italian clothing group Slowear

is winning a legion of fans by

rejecting fast fashion in favour

of innovative, long-lasting

fabrics, says Josh Sims

68 Paper Trail

Italy’s traditional stationers

have evolved to meet modern

demands without losing

any of their time-honoured

appeal, as Verity Hogan

discovers

78 Man On A Mission

As Giorgio Armani celebrates

the 40th anniversary of his

eponymous fashion house, the

designer is still looking to the

future, reports Hannah Lewis

p.58

SHOP AT TRUSSARDI.COM

CONTENTS

16

E X PE R I E NCE

86 Table Talk

Italy’s pizzerias provide an

authentic culinary experience,

says Isabella Redmond Styles

GU I DE

91 Maps and guides to the key

shopping areas of Rome,

Milan, Venice and Florence

E SSE N T I A L S124 How To Shop Tax Free

The simple steps to saving

money on your shopping

T R A NSL AT IONS126 Русский Перевод135 美文翻译

139 日本語翻訳

SOU V E N I R146 The essential item to bring

home

Follow the Global Blue editors

on the move for up-to-the-

minute shopping tips and

insider information.

GET SOCIAL

@shopcontent

/globalblue

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COMPETITIONS

FASHION

ONLINE

ENGLISH | Р УС СКИЙ | 中文

The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com

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18 | PRODUCTS

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 124

CHECK OUT

STEP INTO HISTORYCrafted from rare Russian

deer leather salvaged from the

wreck of the Metta Catharina, a

ship that sank in 1786 and was

not recovered for almost two

centuries, these made-to-order

Oxford brogues are fine examples

of the exclusive and bespoke

footwear created by artisanal shoe

company Stefano Bemer. The age

and origins of the leather can be

seen in the distinctive colour and

texture of the shoes, which are

painstakingly handmade by the

brand’s expert craftspeople at its

workshop in Florence. The label

has a worldwide reputation for

excellence in bespoke footwear,

and has recently expanded to offer

a range of ready-to-wear shoes,

which are designed and made

with the same aim that has carried

the company forward since its

conception in 1983: creating the

perfect Italian shoe. hl

Stefano Bemer Metta

Catharina Russian deer

leather Oxford brogues,

€6,500, Stefano Bemer, Via San

Niccolò 2, 50125 Florence,

+39 055 046 0476,

stefanobemer.com

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Luca Larenza founded his eponymous mens-wear label in 2008, and was a fnalist in the prestigious Who Is On Next Uomo industry competition three years later. Best known for his innovative knitwear and outerwear, Larenza prides himself on the quality of his label’s clothing, all of which is made by hand in Italy. Here, the Milan-based designer shares his insider tips for autumn/winter 2015/16 with Ximena Daneri

MY FAVOURITES:

LUCA LARENZA

20 | PRODUC TS

2. ‘Valentino is my favourite collection of autumn/winter 2015/16’

Valentino, Via Montenapoleone 20, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 6182, valentino.com

3. ‘My green

Moleskine notebook

is always in my bag’

Moleskine notebook,

€8.50, Moleskine, Via Dante 15, 20123 Milan, +39 02 7202 2711, moleskine.com

11. ‘The deconstructed

handmade baby

alpaca coat from my

latest collection is

timeless, and ultra-

light and warm at

the same time. My

inspiration was 1980s

New York’Luca Larenza coat,

€2,800; sweater, €240;cardigan, €350, lucalarenza.com

globalblue.com

SHOP | 21

4. ‘Church’s shoes are

classics’

Church’s Enberdy 2

boots, €500, Church’s, Via Tommaso Marino 7, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7209 4454, church-footwear.com

5. ‘Parsley Seed Anti-Oxidant Hydrator by Aesop is the best product for stressed skin after long fights’

Aesop Parsley Seed

Anti-Oxidant Hydrator,

€49, 10 Corso Como, Corso Como 10, 20154 Milan, +39 02 2900 2674, aesop.com

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ADD ONS

Accessories can make or break an outft: choose wisely

1. Diesel jacket, €380, Diesel,

Piazza di Spagna 18, 00187 Rome,

+39 06 678 6817, diesel.com

2. Ermenegildo Zegna Couture

gloves, €390, Ermenegildo Zegna,

Via Montenapoleone 27E, 20121 Milan,

+39 02 7600 6437, zegna.com

3. Car Shoe driving shoes, €320,

Car Shoe, Piazza San Lorenzo in

Lucina 5, 00186 Rome,

+39 06 8938 5111, carshoe.com

4. Hackett carry-on bag, €595,

Hackett, Via Manzoni 38, 20121 Milan,

+39 02 7601 5369, hackett.com

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GET THE GLOSS

Go jet black with patent leather and ceramic jewellery

1. Burberry scarf, €425,

Burberry, Via Montenapoleone 12,

20121 Milan, +39 02 3601 0852,

burberry.com

2. Coccinelle gloves, €69,

Coccinelle, Via Manzoni/Via Bigli,

20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 8161,

coccinelle.com

3. Alexandra de Curtis

mini bucket bag, €400, Bagheera,

Piazza Euclide 30, 00197 Rome,

+39 06 808 6352, alexandradecurtis.com

4. Marc Cain hat, €59.90,

Marc Cain, Via Borgospesso 21,

20121 Milan, +39 02 8424 1320,

marc-cain.com

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SHOP | 25

globalblue.com

5. Damiani ceramic and

pink gold ring, €1,590, Damiani,

Via Montenapoleone 10, 20121 Milan,

+39 02 7602 8088, damiani.com

6. Pierre Hardy shoes, €740,

Antonia, Via Cusani 5, 20121 Milan,

+39 02 8699 8340,

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7. BeoPlay H6 Rapha Edition

headphones, €399, Bang & Olufsen,

Viale di Tor di Quinto 25, 00191 Rome,

+39 06 333 3799, bang-olufsen.com

8. Native Union Clic marble

iPhone case, €79.99, Excelsior,

Galleria del Corso 4, 20122 Milan,

+39 02 7630 7301, nativeunion.com

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26 | PRODUC TS

CASUAL COOL

Take the laid-back approach to getting dressed this season

1. Wood Wood jumper, €220, Dictionary, Corso di Porta Ticinese 46, 20123 Milan, +39 02 835 8212, woodwood.dk

2. Alberto Guardiani shoes, €220, Coin Excelsior, Via Cola di Rienzo 173, 00192 Rome, +39 06 3600 4298, albertoguardiani.com

3. Frey Wille bracelet, €580, Frey Wille, Via Montenapoleone 29, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7628 1241, freywille.com

4. Marina Rinaldi trousers, €150, Marina Rinaldi, Via Panzani 1R, 50123 Florence, +39 055 238 2343, marinarinaldi.com

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Iceberg

Downtown Gallery

Mary Charteris,

DJ and musician

London

photo Olivier Zahm

Milano - Via Verri 4 ang. Via Bigli

Roma - Via del Babuino 87/88 - T. 06 32600221

Riccione - Viale Ceccarini ang. Viale Gramsci - T. 0541 605922

Porto Cervo - La Passeggiata - Casa 3b - T. 0789 92142


28 | PRODUC TS

1. Super Duper hat, €275, Luisa Via Roma, Via Roma 19R-21R, 50123 Florence, +39 055 906 4116, superduperhats.com

2. Swarovski Glam Rock iPhone case,

€79, Swarovski, Merceria de l’Orologio, San Marco 256, 30126 Venice, +39 041 521 0618, swarovski.com

3. Massimo Dutti bag, €125, Massimo Dutti, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 37B, 20122 Milan, +39 02 7602 3001, massimodutti.com

4. Harris Wharf London coat, €400, Blue Marlin & Co, Via Salaria 244, 00198 Rome, +39 06 855 3551, harriswharfondon.co.uk

5. Senso Zara heels, €185, La Rinascente, Piazza Fiume, 00198 Rome, +39 06 884 1231, senso.it

TRUE BLUE

Stick to varying shades of a single colour for a seamlessly coordinated look

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Exceptionally light. Innovatively designed. Made in Europe.

Lightweight: from 2.3 kg

for Spinner 55cmMade in Europe

MILANO Samsonite Store via San Pietro all’Orto 11 - via Belfi ore 6 - C.C. Fiordaliso – ROMA Trunk & Co Store via del Tritone 149

SAMSONITE FACTORY OUTLETS: Cantello (VA) - Corsico (MI) - Vicolungo The Style Outlets (NO) - Serravalle Designer Outlet (AL) - Castel

Guelfo The Style Outlets (BO) - Fidenza Village (PR) - Valdichiana Outlet Village (AR) - Barberino Designer Outlet (FI) - Castel Romano

Designer Outlet (RM) - Valmontone Outlet (RM)


30 | PRODUC TS

BOHO MOJO

Give a simple maxi dress a lift with statement accessories

1. Dsquared2 handbag, €4,450, Dsquared2, Via Pietro Verri 4, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8969 1699, dsquared2.com

2. Paula Cademartori shoes, €1,050, 10 Corso Como, Corso Como 10, 20154 Milan, +39 02 2900 2674, paulacademartori.com

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3. Dodo earrings, €270 each, Dodo, Via del Babuino 27-28, 00187 Rome, +39 06 3601 0289,dodo.it

4. Pinko dress, €450, Pinko, Via Roma 26R-28R, 50122 Florence, +39 055 239 9497, pinko.it P

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STREET STYLE

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32 | ST R E E T ST Y L E

Italy’s most stylish women prove that the bolder the better, by mixing prints and textures, and embracing bright and beautiful colours

globalblue.com

SHOP | 33


SHOP WINDOW

for men and women displayed in

metal and glass cabinets. Accesso-

ries including hats, handbags and

footwear, as well as the Moncler

Lunettes eyewear collection, are

also available. Stock up on essen-

tials to help you brave the elements

in the city and on the slopes. sm

Moncler,

Calle Larga XXII Marzo,

San Marco 2033,

30124 Venice,

+39 041 296 0605,

moncler.com

* for map go to page 110

ALL WRAPPED UP

Moncler’s thick padded jackets,

available in a range of colours, are

a winter essential, and visitors to

Venice can invest in these ward-

robe staples at the brand’s fagship

boutique. Designed by Gilles

& Boissier, the store’s interior

features grey Carnico stone foors,

with items from the Moncler and

Moncler Grenoble collections

34 | N E WS

36 | NEWS


TOUCH OF GLAMOUR

Experimentation with texture

is the key theme at Escada Sport

for autumn/winter 2015/16. From

grey coats with faux-fur details

and patterned knits in red and

cream to white 90s-inspired

padded jackets with overlaid

embroidery and burnt orange

scarves in velvet, every style is

tactile – as are the brand’s evening

looks, which include sleek black

tops studded with beadwork on

the shoulders, to glamorous efect.

Those embarking on a winter

sports trip should also check out

Escada Sport’s sleek and fattering

skiwear. sm

Escada,

Corso Giacomo Matteotti 22,

20121 Milan,

+39 02 7600 0753, escada.com


VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

Italian perfumer Acqua di

Parma is known for its distinctive

fragrances, including its Colonia

collection of eau de colognes. The

latest additions to the ever-evolv-

ing range take rare ingredients and

fascinating destinations as their

inspiration: Colonia Intensa Oud,

for instance, looks to the perfume-

making traditions of the Middle

East. The new Colonia Ambra

combines the citrus notes of

orange and bergamot of the classic

Colonia with the complex scent

of rare and precious ambergris,

along with cedarwood, rose and

patchouli. The elegant result will

suit any man with a taste for the

fner things in life. fm

Acqua di Parma, Via Gesù 1,

20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 3307,

acquadiparma.com


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globalblue.com

N E WS | 37

BEST FOOT FORWARD

For authentic Italian style, look

no further than footwear specialist

Loriblu’s latest autumn/winter

collection. Designers Graziano

Cuccù and Annarita Pilotti have

created a collection that encapsu-

lates their own concept of luxury:

expressing individuality through

uniqueness, with shoes as the per-

fect way to do this. From feminine

jewelled sandals to chunky boots

embellished with chains or gems,

the pieces represent the many

facets of a stylish woman’s person-

ality. As with all Loriblu’s shoes,

each pair is completely designed

and made in Italy from the fnest

materials. hl

Loriblu, Via de’ Tornabuoni 72R,

50123 Florence, +39 055 291143,

loriblu.com


MARVELLOUS MARELLA

The autumn/winter collection

from Marella strikes the perfect

balance between informality

and sophistication. Materials are

of the highest quality and the

designs exude elegance, yet this

is a wardrobe made for comfort

and ease. A winter palette of

neutral colours, such as tobacco

and caramel, is highlighted with

touches of bright green, blue and

magenta. Perhaps best of all is the

range of winter jackets, warm and

cosy in interesting textures and a

mix of exquisite fabrics. Tie yours

at the waist to maintain a feminine

silhouette. mkh

Marella,

Via del Corso 89-90,

00186 Rome,

+39 06 678 5771,

marella.com



38 | N E WS

SWEET DREAMS

Sisley’s Piazza San Babila

store in Milan has been given

a new look. Called Rich&Raw,

the new store concept is inspired

by Bernardo Bertolucci’s flm

The Dreamers, set in Paris in

1968 – which is when and where

Sisley was launched. The artfully

worn interior, with its ‘rich’ oval

mirrors and gold details and ‘raw’

exposed brick walls, is designed to

evoke an old and once luxurious

Parisian apartment now lived in by

a free-spirited younger genera-

tion. The space, which covers 490

square metres, provides a suitably

inspiring setting for the latest

sophisticated yet understated

clothes and accessories collections

from Sisley. fm

Sisley, Corso Vittorio Emanuele/

Galleria Passerella,

Piazza San Babila, 20121 Milan,

+39 02 763881, sisley.com


BAUHAUS STYLE

Drawing inspiration from its

own archives, Fratelli Rossetti

has given a Bauhaus spin to its

accessories for autumn/winter,

updating some of its core styles

with the bold lines and contrasting

colours of this famous architec-

tural school. Originally launched

in 1975, these ankle boots have

been reimagined in bold colour

schemes which juxtapose light and

dark hues, the Bauhaus-inspired

design making use of contrasting

textures and shades. The style is

already loved for its classic shape

and quality materials, and the new

design updates its 1970s look for

the modern day. mkh

Fratelli Rossetti, Salizada San

Moisè, San Marco 1477,

30124 Venice, +39 041 522 0819,

fratellirossetti.com


NEWS | 41

MORE FOR LESS

If you’re serious about fashion,

then no trip to Italy is complete

without visiting some of the

country’s incredible designer

outlets. Mantova Outlet Village, for

instance, has been designed to look

like a typical local village during the

Renaissance period, and its location

close to a motorway means access

to its 110 stylish stores could not

be easier. Its sister establishment,

Puglia Outlet Village, is just 20km

from Bari, another ideal location

for visitors looking for a bargain.

With 90 stores ofering amazing

reductions on designer goods, along

with restaurants, cafés and activities

for the whole family, it is one of the

country’s best outlet villages. hl

Mantova Outlet Village,

Via Marco Biagi, 46031 Mantua,

+39 0376 25041;

Puglia Outlet Village,

Via dei Portuali 12,

70056 Molfetta,

+39 080 337 0211,

fashiondistrict.it

PUSHING THE BOUNDARIES

Romanian designer Dina Dancu

lives and works in Rome. She

studied fne art in the city and this

creative background is evident

throughout her work. Dancu’s

creative process starts with a shape;

allowing her bags to evolve from

this inspires her innovative pieces,

which push the boundaries of func-

tion and form. Her desire to create

beautiful objects led her to start

an accessories label, My Mist, in

2013. My Mist is sold in selected

boutiques across Italy; all products

are handmade in Italy using high-

quality materials such as leather,

linen and faux fur. th

Alexandra,

Via Paolo Emilio 19-23,

00192 Rome,

+39 06 324 3311,

mymist.it

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URBAN COOL

Known for its creative mix of

contemporary apparel and home-

ware, Urban Outftters has arrived

in Italy with a shop-in-shop on the

second foor of La Rinascente’s

newly opened Annex Milano.

The space has been given the

recognisably industrial treatment

that’s synonymous with the Urban

Outftters brand, and is hung with

artwork by specially commissioned

artists. The store will be housing

both new and directional designer

brands, including Little White Lies,

Somedays Lovin’ and Unif. km

La Rinascente Annex Milano,

Via Santa Radegonda 10,

20121 Milan, +39 02 88521,

urbanoutftters.com


INTENSE SCENTS

Dolce & Gabbana’s latest

fragrance releases, Velvet Ex-

otic Leather and Velvet Mimosa

Bloom, result from the design

duo’s exploration of the ancient

traditions of perfumery. Like

other fragrances in the Velvet col-

lection, the new scents are built

on the olfactory memories of Do-

menico Dolce and Stefano Gab-

bana, and are designed to awake

the senses with their intensity.

For men, Exotic Leather recreates

the essence of masculine skin,

featuring woody notes as well

as the complex scent of leather

itself. For women, Mimosa Bloom

places the mimosa fower centre

stage; mandarin, bergamot,

narcissus and violet all further

enhance this complex foral fra-

grance. mkh

Dolce & Gabbana,

Piazza di Spagna 93-95,

00187 Rome, +39 06 699 1592,

dolcegabbana.com


44 | NEWS


HOME FROM HOME

Founded by Milan-based

creative Uberta Zambeletti, Wait

and See is much more than just

a shop. Previously a convent, the

space has been lovingly converted

into a store more reminiscent of a

welcoming private home, making

for an appealing shopping envi-

ronment. This is a space that truly

merits the name ‘concept store’,

with Zambeletti’s philosophy of

‘la vita è bella’ (‘life is beautiful’)

evident throughout. Stocking a

wide array of womenswear, ac-

cessories, jewellery, objets d’art,

stationery and more, Wait & See

ofers a modern idea of luxury

defned not by cost, but by worth.

Consequently the price range

ofers something for every visitor,

with individual pieces chosen for

their high quality and considered

design above all else. mkh

Wait and See,

Via Santa Marta 14, 20123 Milan,

+39 02 7208 0195, waitandsee.it

VIVA FURLA!

Respected Italian brand Furla

has just renovated and reopened

its Rome fagship. Furla is known

for its luxurious handbags – which

fuse fashion-forward styles with

fun and youthful colours, shapes

and textures – a vast range of

which can be found in the Rome

store. Look out for the Viva

Furla bag, the label’s take on the

ubiquitous bucket style. This

colour-block bag in textured

leather is part of Furla’s campaign

to add artistic style to the world

of accessories. A must-have shape

for the season, Furla’s take on the

bucket bag is both trend-led and

distinctive. hl

Furla,

Piazza di Spagna 22,

00187 Rome,

+39 06 6920 0363,

furla.com


260 years of continuous history is reflected in the Harmony Collection. A new legacy has dawned.

C R A F T I N G E T E R N I T Y S I N C E 1 7 5 5

H A R M O N Y

C H R O N O G R A P H

Geneva official watchmaking certification

VENEZIA - Piazza San Marco, 67 - Tel. 041 5230609

VICENZA - Corso Palladio Galleria Porti, 2 - Tel. 0444 546313

www.salvadori-venezia.com

46 | NEWS


The latest creations from

Bulgari’s iconic Serpenti line are

as elegant as ever, setting bril-

liant diamonds against the soft,

feminine backdrop of pale rose

gold. The snake has been a symbol

of power since ancient Greek and

Roman times, suggesting eternity,

renewal and beauty. It is associ-

ated with such signifcant fgures

as Aphrodite, goddess of love,

and Cleopatra, queen of the Nile.

These are the ideals that the Ital-

ian fne jewellery house presents

in its Serpenti collection, and in

the Serpenti Tubogas necklace the

concept of feminine power is more

central than ever. The curves

of the piece sit perfectly against

the curves of the wearer’s neck,

creating a show-stopping piece of

jewellery. hl

Bulgari,

Via de’ Tornabuoni 56R,

50123 Florence,

+39 055 239 6786, bulgari.com


ECLECTIC CHIC

If there’s one certainty with

Miuccia Prada, it is that there are

no certainties. Her autumn/winter

2015/16 collection for Miu Miu is

a glorious mishmash of colours,

patterns, and even eras. Outfts are

an exercise in contrasts, with thick

houndstooth coats teamed with

patent crocodile leather miniskirts.

The efect is a joyous assault on the

senses. Oversized buttons are a key

motif that unites sometimes dispa-

rate looks. This oversized theme

was also apparent in the costume

jewellery worn by the models who

showed the collection. The only

area where Prada doesn’t play with

proportions is accessories; bags

and shoes have a distinctly 1950s

feel, albeit with a cartoon-like Miu

Miu makeover. th

Miu Miu, Salizada San Moisè,

San Marco 1471, 30124 Venice,

+39 041 810 6066, miumiu.com


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A POWERFUL LOOK

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Diesel Planet Store Milan piazza San Babila, 1/3

Diesel Store Florence via dei Lamberti, 13/ R e via Speziali, 3R

Diesel Store Venice S. Marco, 5315-16 (Ponte di Rialto)

Diesel Store c/o Venice Airport Marco Polo - unità 7

Diesel Corner Venice c/o Coin Excelsior Cannaregio, 5787

Diesel Store Verona viale Mazzini, 68

Diesel Flagship Store Rome piazza di Spagna, 18 - angolo vicolo del Bottino

Diesel Store Rome via del Corso, 118

Diesel Corner Rome c/o Coin Excelsior via Cola di Rienzo, 173

this is

where

we tell you

what

to wear

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: ale

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F I R E N Z E

Via del Parione, 31-33r +39 055 215722

ROMA

Via Borgognona, 13 +39 06 68808097

Via dei Coronari, 105a-106 +39 06 6834092

FIRENZE

ROMA

PARIS

NEW YORK

BEVERLY HILLS

TOKYO

HONG KONG

JAKARTA

TAIPEI

SEOUL

SYDNEY

ILBISONTE.COM

NEWS | 49

CARTOON CAPERS

Jeremy Scott knows how to

make fashion fun, and his colour-

ful and playful creations for

Moschino have won him a host

of famous fans – including Vogue

Japan’s editor at large Anna Dello

Russo and star blogger Chiara

Ferragni. This autumn/winter

season he has opted for a cartoon

theme. Highlights of the collection

include long padded jackets in all

the colours of the rainbow, leather

quilted skirt-and-crop-top com-

binations and, most importantly,

long sweatshirts and baseball-style

tops featuring his favourite Loo-

ney Tunes characters. fm

Moschino, Via Sant’Andrea 12,

20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 0832,

moschino.com


BLUEPRINT FOR SUCCESS

A Tod’s bag has always been

about understated luxury and

exquisite craftsmanship, and the

new Architect bag is no exception.

The multifunctional, extendable

model is the result of a unique

collaboration with Japanese

design studio Nendo and its chief

designer, Oki Sato, and is – as its

name suggests – intended to carry

blueprints, plans and sketches. At

its most spacious, the Architect

can hold several A3-sized draw-

ings; folding it in half creates

two compartments for A4-sized

documents. The handles can also

be tucked away to transform the

bag into a clutch. Available in

several colourways, the Architect

also features the brand’s signature

double stripe on the front. th

Tod’s, Via de’ Tornabuoni 60R,

50123 Florence, +39 055 219423,

tods.com


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50 | NEWS


Give your winter wardrobe a

bold colour injection with this

warm orange Vero bag from lux-

ury leather goods specialist Inniu.

This model is one of the brand’s

classic shapes, here made from

luxurious ostrich skin, and like all

Inniu products it is designed and

made in Italy, where the brand’s

skilled artisans focus on creating

classic and beautiful pieces for

the modern woman. The team at

Inniu chose the Venetian carnival

mask as its emblem, feeling that

its air of mystery and glamour

refected their own design ideals.

BASICALLY BRILLIANT

Scandinavian style has always

embraced the ‘less is more’ ethos,

but this season Swedish brand

Cos has taken minimalism a step

further, stripping back its mens-

wear collection to focus solely on

the essentials. Collarless grey wool

blazers are held together by metal

clips, while outerwear details are

kept hidden, as in a midnight blue

hooded dufel coat concealing a

removable inner technical jacket.

This allows the simple, classic

materials – including felted wool,

padded white cotton poplin and

Japanese-inspired cloth – to take

centre stage. Simplicity also domi-

nates when it comes to accessories,

with winter sandals in grey felted

wool, traditional black leather

derby lace-ups and a drawstring

gym bag with matching black

leather gloves rounding of a stun-

ning collection. rp

Cos, Via della Spada 1,

50123 Florence,

+39 055 281093,

cosstores.com


As on many of the label’s pieces,

this motif makes a charming clasp

for the Vero bag. mkh

Inniu, Piazza degli Strozzi 10R,

50123 Florence,

+39 055 274 1128,

inniu.it


COLOUR MAGIC

MILANO - Piazza Duomo 19

contacts: +39 02 87 40 10 [email protected]

52 | NEWS


BIGGER AND BETTER

Valentino’s new fagship in

Rome’s Piazza di Spagna is

its largest to date, covering an

impressive 1,865 square metres,

and is a testament to the Italian

brand’s commitment to expansion.

The store concept was developed

by creative directors Maria Grazia

Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, in

partnership with architect David

Chipperfeld, and focuses on the

subtle use of luxurious materials

such as marble, oak and leather.

Stocking both menswear and wo-

menswear, it is the frst Valentino

store in Italy to carry the men’s

made-to-measure denim collec-

tion. th

Valentino,

Piazza di Spagna 38,

00187 Rome,

+39 06 9451 5710,

valentino.com


WINNING CONCEPT

Founded in 2008 by fashion

enthusiasts Ezia Degiovanini and

Tomomiysu Iwata, N30 Milano is

a multibrand store that is recog-

nised as a landmark in internation-

al fashion. This destination houses

collections from young designers

and labels including Cristiano

Burani, Alessia Xoccato, Gi-

annico, Rochas, Antonio Berardi

and Laura Strambi. Designers are

chosen for their trendsetting gar-

ments and jewellery, resulting in

an eclectic mix of oferings. Take

time to admire the window display

overseen by the store’s visual art

director and buyer Francesco

Biacca, who works with the fea-

tured designers to create beautiful

installations. km

N30 Milan, Via della Spiga 30,

20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 7377,

n30milano.com


Milano: MIROGLIO PIAZZA DELLA SCALA

Via Verdi 2 ang. Via Manzoni

Milano: Via Dante 4 - Corso Buenos Aires 15Roma: Via Nazionale 197 - Via Frattina 11-12Rimini: Corso D’Augusto 83Firenze: Via Dei Tosinghi 8-10/R

www.henrycottons.com

Campo San Luca, 4574 - Venezia

NEWS | 55

HOT SPOT

Combining intriguing fashion

and original art, Milan’s Wok

Store is sure to ignite your pas-

sion for shopping. Thanks to

collaborations with galleries such

as London’s JaguarShoes, you’ll

fnd items of contemporary art

handpicked by owners Federica

Zambon and Simona Citarella

dotted about the eclectic space,

along with clothing by well-known

labels such as Kenzo and Maison

Margiela as well as lesser-known

designers including Arielle de

Pinto. sm

Wok Store,

Viale Col di Lana 5A,

20136 Milan,

+39 02 8982 9700,

wok-store.com

IN THE ZONE

With its fashion-forward

selection, Antonia is a multibrand

boutique that should be on every

shopper’s checklist. Designed

by renowned Italian architect

Vincenzo de Cotiis, the store has

three distinct departments cover-

ing 600 square metres in total. In

the womenswear zone, established

brands and avant-garde labels

await the discerning client. The

same can also be said of the mens-

wear section, where ready-to-wear

clothing and accessories vie for

attention. The store’s eponymous

owner travels the world to source

the shoes, bags and small leather

goods that form the accessories

section. Located in the hip Brera

area, Antonia is a favourite of

fashion editors and celebrities

alike. th

Antonia, Via Cusani 5,

20121 Milan, +39 02 8699 8340,

antonia.it


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Italian clothing group Slowear is rejecting fast fashion in favour of innovative, long-lasting

fabrics, says Josh Sims

ENDURING

STYLE

ENDURING

STYLE

ENDURING

STYLE

Beauty and more …visit Europe’�

No. 1 perfumery!

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SHOP | 61

Previous page: a pair of Incotex’s deceptively high-tech trousers Above (from top): Zanone knitwear; Incotex trousers

By the reckoning of fast

fashion – a model that ofers

a rapid turnover of very

current styles at very afordable,

almost disposable prices – Slowear

sounds positively old-fashioned,

which is one thing a clothing

company can ill aford to be.

However, the Italian clothing

group is, as its name suggests, in

no hurry to deliver radical changes

of style to drive sales.

‘Slowear seemed like the right

summation of our philosophy,

even if it’s an odd word,’ says

the group’s co-founder Roberto

Compagno, whose Venice-based

Incotex family clothing business,

established by his father, began

trading in 1951. ‘We’re against fast

fashion in the way the slow food

movement is against fast food.

That idea was pretty exotic just 10

years ago and a lot of people in the

industry thought we were pretty

strange guys. Now it’s more widely

understood.’

In keeping with a niche

/126 139135 /

Above (from top): Slowear store on Milan’s Via Solferino; Slowear jackets are designed to remain stylish year afer year

consumerism that demands

sustainability and cradle-to-grave

design in other products, Slowear

aims to bring the same standard

to clothing. Compagno believes

that, just as a growing interest in

provenance is being applied to

foodstufs, it will also be applied to

clothing, especially as the fashion

consumer’s understanding of

manufacturing, margins and build

quality improves, in large part

thanks to the internet.

To this end, the company

has an unusual structure. The

original Incotex business began by

making military uniforms before

specialising in trousers, ‘and over

time there was really nothing we

could do with trousers that we

hadn’t done, so we started to apply

the same idea to other products’,

says Compagno. A spate of PH

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64 | FEATURES

The brand

promotes longevity

of use over fashion’s

fleetingness

Above: crafsmanship is a key part of the Slowear approach

acquisitions saw it take under

its umbrella other little-known

but best-in-class specialists,

including Glanshirt in shirts,

Montedoro in outerwear and

Zanone in knitwear, and launch a

new clothing line, Archivio, based

around fabrics from the Incotex

archive.

These ‘slower brands’, as

Compagno calls them, still

remain, sold both wholesale and

behind the fascias of a growing

number of Ofcina Slowear stores.

A second Paris store opened

recently, as did one in Padua,

with many more shops in the

ofng, including one in New York.

Slowear is picking up speed.

Then there is its approach

to design. Rather than create

seasonal collections, it launches

new products regularly, but as

and when it sees ft: when, in

short, its technical department –

which absorbs 5% of turnover in

research and development – has

created something new. It has an

impressive track record in this.

Among its proprietary fabrics are

Chinolino, a cotton/linen blend

that retains the breathability of

the latter and the softness of the

former, or Incochino, a yarn-

dyed gabardine with a three-way

construction that took fve years

to develop. There is also Flexwool,

Ice Cotton and Shade Cashmere –

all of which are high-tech without

looking it.

The company can also lay

claim to a pioneering garment-

dyeing technique – applying dye to

the fnished garment rather than

making it up from dyed fabric.

Production is meticulous, too:

each Glanshirt shirt, for instance,

introducing the black forest collection.

Apparel, Footwear & AccessoriesTimberland.com

made

for the

modern

trail

SHOP | 67

Above: Glanshirt shirts

is washed three times using a

process that does not distress the

fabric but gives it a lived-in feel.

‘There are plenty of stories of

old Italian companies still doing

it now as they did decades or

centuries ago,’ says Compagno.

‘But that’s really not us. We use

the most technically advanced

machinery on the market with the

intention of pushing innovation

to make the best products. Our

thinking is that if you get the ft

and proportions right, these are

clothes that will still work and still

look modern in 50 years. Ours

is an approach that, I think, is

forward-looking. Making poor

quality or insanely expensive

products just doesn’t seem right

for the times now. Consumers

want to take a more personal

approach to fnding products that

are right for them. The recession

has meant they care less about

brands. They want innovation and

quality at a reasonable price.’

That applies to the shopping

experience as well. As if to

underline the company’s value-

for-money philosophy, interiors

budgets are kept tight: there’s

no marble or expensive glass.

That, as Compagno notes, just

wouldn’t be right for a brand

that is championing substance

over fashiness, longevity of use

over fashion’s feetingness. ‘In

recent years fashion, almost by

defnition, hasn’t looked to quality

because there has been no point,’

he says. ‘The fashion is over before

you know it. But that approach is

changing. And brands will have to

change, too.’

slowear.com

PAPER TRAIL

Without sacrifcing their time-honoured charm, Italy’s traditional stationers have

evolved to meet modern demands, as Verity Hogan discovers

70 | F E AT U R E S

From the Dukes of Savoy

to the young aristocrats

on the Grand Tour, those

with a taste for the fner things in

life have always admired Italy’s

handmade paper. Today, the

country’s stationery still enjoys

an acclaimed reputation. Much

of it is manufactured using the

fnest traditional components,

incorporating techniques that

have remained almost unchanged

since the early 18th century.

From leather-bound journals and

personalised, embossed writing

paper to visiting cards and covered

storage boxes, the range available

is extensive and of the highest

quality.

In Europe, the oldest known

surviving document on paper

(as opposed to parchment) is

housed in the state archive in

Palermo. With text in Arabic and

Greek, it dates back to 1109. Yet

it is widely believed that it wasn’t

until the 13th century that Italian

stationers took the ancient method

of papermaking and transformed

it into a major commercial

product, becoming internationally

renowned for paper production in

the process.

Few companies can boast

a more illustrious legacy than

Fabriano, with a heritage dating

back to 1264. The company

takes its name from the little

town of Fabriano in the Marche

where it is based. This became

a successful papermaking

centre largely because of its

proximity to Ancona, a port

with particularly strong ties to

Arab trade routes. In the 15th

century, fne arts papers made

here were used and highly praised

by Michelangelo. The town’s

Previous page: Pineider’s bespoke stationery

Above (clockwise from top): inside Fabriano’s Rome store; Il Papiro’s colourful paper; Fabriano stationery

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Above (from top): Il Papiro’s store in Rome; some of the brand’s products

workshops pioneered techniques

that are now commonplace in the

papermaking industry, such as

using watermarks, and surface

sheet gluing with gelatine.

Fabriano the company

developed from these artisans’

workshops and has remained

successful thanks to its ability to

adapt, responding to trends and

catering to changing consumer

demands. The product range

has evolved beyond fne arts to

include everyday ofce supplies

and drawing pads as well as

beautifully presented writing

sets. Today, the company is also

committed to renewable energy

and makes extensive use of self-

generated hydroelectric power in

its production.

In contrast, the product

range at Il Papiro is grounded in

artisanal tradition and each of

the company’s 18 shops has been

designed to have a traditional

air, refecting the elegant

atmosphere of its frst store in

Florence. Items on ofer range

from paisley-printed notebooks

to leather-bound journals and

stunning hand-marbled papers.

The company’s owners, Francesco

Giannini and Gianni Parenti,

were born in Florence and are

closely associated with the city’s

artisan community, ensuring

that their products retain historic

charm and boast a timeless quality

that defes passing trends.

Pineider is one of Italy’s oldest

paper manufacturers, having

catered to a suitably discerning

clientele since Francesco Pineider

opened his frst shop in 1774.

‘Our stationery is one of a kind

and known internationally for

Those with a taste

for life’s finer things

have long admired

Italy’s stationery

SHOP | 75

Above: an engraver at work at Pineider

the unique quality of the paper

stocks and the exclusive printing

techniques of our master hand

engravers,’ explains company

spokeswoman Linda Zamboni.

‘Our paper is all chlorine-free,

the inks are natural, and we

apply traditional Italian artisanal

methods to make our papers

perfect to the touch and wonderful

to write on.’

The company has been able to

survive and thrive for more than

240 years by maintaining the

traditional production methods

from which its frst fortunes were

made. Yet modern techniques

have also been incorporated. ‘Of

course, new techniques and new

technologies have changed some

procedures,’ Zamboni says. ‘But

the colouring of the borders in

some of our collections is still

done by hand, as it used to be ages

ago. It’s the same with the making

of our paper boxes, which are

handcrafted in house.’

From made-to-order visiting

cards to writing papers featuring

elegant, embossed characters

and coats of arms, Pineider’s

varied product range has always

attracted a dedicated following.

Former clients include literary

heavyweights such as Lord Byron

and Elizabeth Barrett Browning,

and Hollywood stars from

Marlene Dietrich to Elizabeth

Taylor. ‘Our clientele is still the PH

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SHOP | 77

Above: tools of the trade at Pineider

most refned in the world,’ says

Zamboni. ‘We’re very thankful

to all those who appreciate the

unique quality of our made-in-

Italy stationery products.’

Today, the company ofers a

wide range of stationery goods,

from beautifully crafted pieces

for a special occasion – papers

featuring hand-engraved cursive

lettering, and modern square

cards and envelopes with printed

coloured borders – to the Capri

collection, which features hand-

coloured borders made from

natural pigments and envelopes

with matching handmade tissue

paper lining. The company is

continually evolving. Zamboni

reveals a development hitherto a

secret: Pineider is about to launch

a new engraving technique. It will,

she says, ‘have the result of an

embossed printing from a hand-

engraved cast of a calligraphic

text.’

In a world where

communication is increasingly

conducted electronically, it is

heartening to see that demand

for high-quality stationery in

Italy has increased rather than

diminished. Without losing touch

with their roots, the companies

that frst catered to the literary

elite and aristocratic adventurers

have been able to develop their

product selections to appeal to a

modern audience. As Zamboni

explains, ‘hand engraving dates

back to previous centuries but,

of course, now new technologies

are involved. The precision of the

master engraver, though, is the

same as it used to be.’

fabriano.com,

ilpapirofrenze.it,

pineider.com

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As Giorgio Armani celebrates the 40th anniversary of his eponymous fashion

house, the designer is still looking ahead, says Hannah Lewis

MAN ON A MISSION

Earlier this year, surrounded

by 500 guests ranging from

Hollywood stars to political

dignitaries, Giorgio Armani

kicked of the 40th-anniversary

celebrations for his iconic fashion

house with one of the most

stylish parties of the year. To

coincide with the launch of Expo

Milano 2015, Armani unveiled

a new exhibition space, Armani/

Silos, staged a grand fashion

show celebrating some of his

greatest creations, and ended the

night with a cocktail party at his

nightclub, Armani Privé.

The celebratory catwalk show

transported guests back through

the past four decades, presenting

highlights from the Giorgio

Armani Privé couture line from its

inception. Comprising 160 looks,

it was an impressive retrospective,

showcasing glamour, variety and –

notably – colour, a timely reminder

that Armani’s reputed fondness

for ‘greige’ is undeserved. From

layered tulle skirts in soft nudes

to bold scarlet of-the-shoulder

gowns, the show honoured a

designer with endless creativity

and the ability to make beautiful,

timeless clothes.

Even more impressively, this

/131 143138 /

80 | F E AT U R E S

Above: Armani’s 40th-anniversary fashion show

On trend and

classic, Armani’s

fashion will last

a lifetime

represented just one part of the

Armani portfolio. There are

eight brands under the Armani

umbrella, producing everything

from jeans to home accessories,

baby clothes to ballgowns. The

brand has 49 retail spaces in Italy

alone, including the Armani Casa

fagship, an Armani café and the

aforementioned nightclub.

As a result, one could

spend days exploring Armani’s

achievements in the past 40 years

and not even scratch the surface.

As the man himself has said,

‘I’ve done everything.’ He has a

remarkably hands-on approach;

from architectural sketches to the

smallest fabric decisions, Armani

approves everything personally.

Many fashion commentators,

and Armani himself, have

attributed the designer’s prolifc

output to his late start in life. Now

81, the designer did not launch his

eponymous label until he was 40.

Even so, he has been able to ft the

work of at least one lifetime into

those four decades. The Armani

label launched in 1975, and by

the following year the designer’s

collections were already making

waves, with his ready-to-wear, in

particular, meeting the needs of

modern women perfectly.

Armani was instrumental

Previous page: Armani Privé autumn/winter 2014/15

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82 | F E AT U R E S

Above (clockwise from top): Armani/Silos (both); Armani Privé spring/summer 2015

in defning the look of the era,

but where others have fallen

by the wayside as trends have

changed, the brand has remained

the go-to label for everything

from suiting to eveningwear.

The forward-looking designer is

always thinking about the next

season, and he has an uncanny

ability to create clothes that are

simultaneously on trend and

classic; Armani’s fashion is fashion

that will last a lifetime.

Opening at the same time

as the retrospective show and

party, the new Armani/Silos

space plays host to an exhibition

showcasing 600 signature looks,

as well as a collection of sketches,

technical drawings and materials

from the Armani archives. Just

don’t call it a museum. Armani

SHOP | 83

Despite his

impressive legacy,

Armani’s eye is

firmly on the future

is not about stagnation, he’s

concerned with looking to the

future, and exhibits will be

changed every six months. The

building, a former granary, has

been sympathetically renovated to

maintain many original features

while also radically altering others

– a demonstration of Armani’s

passion for juxtaposing tradition

and modernity.

On the other side of the city,

the Armani Montenapoleone

fagship has recently been

renovated. Located in the historic

Palazzo Taverna, the store also

fuses old and new; the layout

has been returned to its original

foorplan, but each room has

been customised, with luxurious

materials such as marble and

onyx used throughout. As well

as stocking the largest Armani

product collection in the city, the

store is also home to a dedicated

made-to-measure service. Milan

was the natural choice for the

fagship; although Armani was

born in Piacenza, his label was

founded in the city and he has

lived and worked there ever since.

Despite his impressive legacy,

Armani’s eye remains frmly on

the future. At the moment he is

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84 | F E AT U R E S

Above (from top): Armani Privé nightclub, Milan; Emporio Armani autumn/winter 2015/16; Le Sac 11

focusing on a range of accessories,

including handbags, designed to

exist outside of the normal fashion

schedule. Armani has never relied

on accessories in the way that

many fashion houses have, but

the designer is always aware of his

audience and bags have become

big news.

Le Sac 11 has been launched

to coincide with the anniversary:

a practical top-handle bag that is

minimalist, classic and available

in three sizes and a selection of

diferent materials and colours.

The ‘11’ references not only

Armani’s birth date but also the

address of his company’s historic

headquarters. Despite this nod

to his heritage, the bag has – as

with everything Armani – been

designed with the present, and

future, in mind. A timeless design

conceived for today and built to

last: a ftting summation of the

Armani philosophy

armani.com

Milano, Piazza Cordusio Tel. 02 72010727Milano, Piazza San Babila, 3 Tel. 02 76000100

TAX FREE

O N E H O U R E Y E G L A S S E S S E R V I C E

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TABLE TALK

Both a cultural institution and a delicious treat, authentic Italian pizza is still hard to beat, as Isabella Redmond Styles explains

86 | E X PE R I E NCE

The frst pizzeria, located in Naples, opened its doors in 1830; before that, pizza had been sold at open-air stands in the city and was something of a local speciality. These early examples were simple: the Margherita, supposedly created to honour the visit of Queen Margherita of Savoy in 1889, uses just tomatoes, mozzarella and basil. Fast forward to the present and the variety of toppings in the average pizzeria is endless, with the best seasonal and local produce to the fore.

Pizza has been a staple of the Italian kitchen for centuries, starting life as a simple fatbread topped with herbs and brushed with olive oil. With time, other ingredients came to be added. Mozzarella, made from the milk of water bufaloes, was frst mentioned in writing in the 16th century, though its history may date back much further. Tomatoes were frst imported from the Americas at the same time, though it took a while for them to become truly popular for cooking.

SHOP | 87

O B I C À

Obicà is, frst and foremost, about mozzarella– in particular, the bufalo mozzarella from the Campania region. It’s no surprise, then, to fnd a carefully chosen selection of pizzas on its menu. The bases are made with premium Molino Quaglia four, with the dough left to rise for a minimum of 48 hours, and then baked on a refractory stone.

Flavours follow a classic theme – the simple but delicious organic tomato and bufalo mozzarella is hard to beat. The emphasis is on showcasing fantastic ingredients, such as anchovies from Cetara in Southern Italy, to their best possible advantage, with a few seasonal variations thrown in for good measure. Obicà, Via Santa Radegonda 3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 885 2453, obica.com

I L P I Z Z A I U O L O

Il Pizzaiuolo is a little of the

beaten track in Santa Croce, but

it’s certainly worth the efort to

fnd it. The interior is unfussy and

charming – the perfect backdrop

for the Neapolitan-style pizzas,

with a thick crust but a thin

centre, which draw crowds on a

regular basis. Each pizza is baked

in a wood-fred oven; favours

include the Diavolo, spicy salami

with mozzarella and olives, or the

indulgent Burrata. There’s even a

pizza fritta, essentially a calzone

stufed with spinach, ham and

ricotta and fried.

Il Pizzaiuolo,

Via de’ Macci 113R,

50122 Florence, +39 055 241171,

ilpizzaiuolo.it

88 | E X PE R I E NCE

globalblue.com

A N T I C O F O R N O

The unassuming looking Antico

Forno has been a local favourite

since it opened 14 years ago

thanks to its delicious focaccia,

pizza and sandwiches. The secret

of its irresistible pizza is not just

the high-quality ingredients, but

also the way the base is made.

The dough is left to rise for a

whole day, which enhances the

favour and means it can be rolled

out until it is incredibly thin,

guaranteeing a crispy base. Antico

Forno is popular for its signature

pizzaccia, a light and more-ish

cross between focaccia and pizza.

Antico Forno,

Calle de la Donzela,

San Polo 970,

30125 Venice,

+39 041 520 4110

E X PE R I E NCE | 89

D R Y

Dry puts a cool and glamorous

spin on the traditional Italian

pizzeria with an in-house cocktail

bar. Begin your evening with

one of Dry’s classic signature

cocktails, such as the Vintage

Negroni, a blend of gin, Barolo

Chinato, sweet vermouth,

Campari and mandarin bitters.

The pizza is in traditional

Neapolitan style: small, with

a reasonable thickness that

perfectly balances crunchiness

and soft dough. Ingredients are

paramount, such as Cerignola

tomatoes, Fiordilatte cheese from

Agerola, and 24-month-aged

prosciutto (air-dried ham).

Dry, Via Solferino 33,

20121 Milan, +39 02 6379 3414,

drymilano.it

R O S C I O L I

Family-run Roscioli has been in

operation on the same site not far

from Campo de’ Fiori since 1972.

The bakery’s pizzas, fatbreads

and sourdoughs are among the

best in the city, making Roscioli

a big hit with locals and visitors

alike, and it also supplies several

of the city’s best hotels. If you

can turn your head away from

the fragrant panettones or flled

zeppoline, a deep fried pastry

that’s similar to a doughnut,

leave room for the pizza bianca.

Roscioli’s version is its signature

bake, a soft, chewy and crispy

fatbread with a lightly toasted top

that’s been brushed with olive oil.

For those who prefer something

more colourful, the pizza rossa,

topped with a light tomato sauce,

is a delicious alternative.

Roscioli,

Via dei Chiavari 34,

00186 Rome,

+39 06 686 4045,

anticofornoroscioli.it

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GUIDE | 91

GUIDE

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of

your trip to Italy with a look at the country’s must-

visit destinations, from Florentine textile workshops to

jewellery boutiques in Venice. For more helpful hints

and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/italy.

A GLIMPSE OF VENICE

Above: Venice’s picturesque canals are spanned by around 400 bridges in an array of styles

92 | GUIDE

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GUIDE | 93

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globalblue.com

P.95

P.97

P.42

P.44

P.52

94 | GUIDE

Via Belsiana & Via Mario de’ Fiori

VIA CONDOTTI

VIA

BO

CC

A D

I LE

ON

E

VIA BORGOGNONA

VIA DELLE CARROZZE

VIA DELLA CROCE V

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AR

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IOR

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MA

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IAN

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VIA VITTORIA


Piazza Di Spagna

PiazzaMignanelli

V. VITTORIA GIOIELLI ●

CORNER ●

L'ANELLERIA ●

CASTIELLO ●

BORGHINI ● BELSIANA 91 ●

PICCO GIOIELLI●

ALBERTA FERRETTI ●NIKI NIKA ●

MALO ●

KEEP OUTLET ●

RUCOLINE ●HAVAIANAS ●

NIA OUTLET ●

FIORENTINO ●

PANCRISIA ●LAURA

BIAGIOTTI ●

SAVOY ●

BADURA ●

IMPERATORE DI CAPRI ●

WATCH HOUSE ●

MADE IN ITALY ●

● LUIGI BORRELLI

● ZAPPIA

● ILEANA DELLA CORTE

● I CARTAI

● HOUSE OF LEATHER

● C.U.C.I.N.A.

● WOLFORD

● EMANUEL ZOO

● MARTINO MIDALI

● BL GIOIELLI

● LA MERCERIA● LOPEZ WATCHES

● LA PIE VOLEUSE

● CORNER● JAJA CAMICERIA● VERTECCHI● MONT BLANC

● COSE

● TIZIANA MODIANO

● FABRIS

● GIOIELLI DI COCO'

● GREMESE

● CHOSES

● GIOIELLERIA MARONI

● MASTROLEO

● TRONCONE

● GHERARDINI

● DOMUS CALZATURE

● FGF STORE

● CHIARA BLU

● DRUMHOR● GIORGIA R

Via Frattina

VIA BORGOGNONA

VIA

BO

CC

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VIA CONDOTTI


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Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

GU I DE | 95

Via Dei Due Macelli

VIASISTINA

VIAGREGORIANA

VIADEIDUEMACELLI

● CHIURATO MICHELE

● EDITH B

● HOSS INTROPIA

● PINEIDER

● TAMMARO

● OTTICA BILECI

● JACKSON

● PINKO

● PELLETTERIA FLACCO

● EDISON

● RALPH

● VICTORY

● KAMINSKY

● LA BOTTEGA DI ELI

MANDARINA DUCK ●

METTIMI GIÙ ●

ILLY SHOP ●

59/A ●

RED & BLUE ●

METTIMI GIU' ●

CARTELLO D’AURIA ●

RENARD ●

LA SORGENTE ●

BATA ●

VICTORY ●

I-D ●

ROSA FISH ●

Ermenegildo Zegna

is characterised by its

always-elegant take on

men’s clothing and ac-

cessories, so when the

brand turns its hand

to a humble item like

a sneaker, it’s going to

be special. The label’s

couture sneaker, a

luxurious twist on an

everyday wardrobe

staple, is available in

black-grained calf

leather or grey bufalo

leather with a metallic sheen.

Ermenegildo Zegna’s triple X

logo, which is reserved for its

couture items, appears on the

back of the shoe and the

lacing also cleverly references

this motif.

Ermenegildo Zegna,

Via dei Condotti 58,

00187 Rome,

+39 06 6994 0678,

zegna.com


globalblue.com

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

PH

OT

O: C

AR

LO B

EV

ILA

CQ

UA

Experience the magic with Disney Store!

GRUGLIASCO (TO)

Centro Commerciale “Shopville Le Gru”Via Crea, 10, 10095 Tel. 011.7708080

VENEZIA

Campo San Bartolomeo, 525730124 San Marco Tel. 041.5223980

VERONA

Via Mazzini, 25 - 37121Tel. 045.8013655

PADOVA Piazza dei Frutti, 23 - 35139Tel. 049.8764703

FIRENZE

Via dei Calzaiuoli, 69/71 50122Tel. 055.291633

BOLOGNA

Via Indipendenza, 7 - 40121Tel: 051.6486151

ROMA

Via Del Corso, 165 - 00186Tel. 06.69924891

ROMA Centro Commerciale Porta di Roma,Via Alberto Lionello, 201 00139Tel. 06.87070325

ROMA LUNGHEZZA Centro Commerciale “R.O.M.A.E.S.T”,Via Collatina, 858 km 12,800 - 00155Tel. 06.22511321

MILANO

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 30 20122 Tel. 02.76317908

ORIO AL SERIO (BG) Centro Commerciale “Orio Center”Via Portico, 59/61 - 24050Tel. 035.4596017

MARCIANISE (CE)

Centro Commerciale “CAMPANIA”Autostrada A1, Uscita Caserta sud/MarcianiseLocalità Aurno - 81025Tel. 0823.773601

NAPOLI

Via Toledo, 129 - 80100Tel. 081.7901377

BARI

Via Sparano, 127-130 - 70100Tel. 080.5283916

PALERMO

Via Ruggero Settimo, 79/87 90139Tel. 091.333125

©D

isn

ey

www.disneystore.it

GU I DE | 97

Via del Corso (North)

VIA DEL VANTAGGIO

VIA ANTONIO CANOVA

VIA LAURINA

VIA DI GESU E MARIA

VIA DI SAN GIACOMO

VIA DEI GRECI

VIA

DI

RIP

ET

TA

VIA DEI PONTEFICI

VIA DELLE CARROZZE

VIA DELLA CROCE

VIA VITTORIA

VIA

DE

L B

AB

UIN

O

VIA

DE

L C

OR

SO

V

IA D

EL

CO

RS

O

VIA

DE

L C

OR

SO

V

IA D

EL

CO

RS

O V

IA D

EL

CO

RS

O

● BORSALINOPiazza DelPopolo ● ZEISS HOUSE

BERNABEI ●KINZLY ●

LU ●RE MISHELLE ●

DA PIETRO ●DAVID HAMILTON ●

GRATIE ●

H&M ●

DESIGUAL ●

AW LAB ●

NUVOLARI ●OTTICA SOLE ●

FLORENCE ●

BATA ●PIAZZA ITALIA ●

MAC ●KIKO ●

SEPHORA ●

TERRANOVA ●

NIKE ●

ADIDAS ●

REDFORD ●

GAP ●

ISHOP ●

GEOX ●

CAMPER ●

BRANDY & MELVILLE ●

● ALFIERI

● STEFANO RICCI

● ORIGINAL MARINES

● BOTTEGA VERDE● ANTHEA● DOMINIQUE● LUSH● NERO GIARDINI● REFRIGIWEAR● MURPHY & NYE

● PERUGINA● GAZZELLE● COVER STORE● DIVA● BERNABEI● TATIÉ● SUBDUED● DOUBLE AGENT● FOOT LOCKER● PULL LOVE● MARCO

● LAB SHOES

● SISLEY

● VANS● ELISABETTA FRANCHI● PERLA● INGLOT● ST.MORITZ● SOLARIS● COCCINELLE

● CATENELLA● ALCOTT● PEPE JEANS● MANILA GRACE● KEY

● BERNABEI● SIMONA● L’OCCITANE● DA VINCI● FRANCESCHINI

● MONDO WIND● MARELLA● INTIMISSIMI● SHOPIE CHARLOTTE● MARC O’POLO● ET MOI

● LA 3 STORE● NAU● CHOPIN● DAVID SADDLER

● CALZEDONIA● DECCIO CARLO● PARFOIS● GOLDEN POINT● ASOLE E BOTTONI● TALLY WEIJL● DIESEL● GUESS

Largo DeiLombardi

Al Bolognese

FOSSIL ●

TIFFANY

Via dei Condotti is Rome’s

most exclusive shopping

street, so where better for

elite American jeweller

Tifany to open its new

store? The two-storey

boutique, the brand’s third

in the city, opens this spring

and covers 365 square

metres. The interior walls

feature archival motifs that

cleverly reference Tifany’s

long-standing heritage,

which dates back nearly 180

years.

Tifany & Co,

Via dei Condotti 55,

00187 Rome,

tifany.com


Restaurant


Featured In This Issue

P.37

98 | GUIDE

Via del Corso (Central)

Via del Corso (South) VIA DELLA VITE

VIA FR ATTINA

VIA

BE

RG

AM

AS

CI

H

AIV

DE

LL'

IMP

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VIA BORGOGNONA

VIA

BE

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IAN

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VIA CONDOTTI

VIA MARCO MINGHETTI

VIA SAN CLAUDIA

VIA TOMACELLI

VIA DEL PARLAMENTO VIA DELL E CONVERTITE

VIA

DI S

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GalleriaAlberto

SordiPiazza

Colonna

Piazza delParlamento

Piazza diSan Lorenzo

in Lucina

Piazzadi San

Silvestro

FENDI ●

VODAFONE ●7 CAMICIE ●

SISLEY ●HAMILTON ●

CORNER ●CARPISA ●

GREISY ●HAUSMANN & CO ●

ACCESSORIZE ●PUMA ●

INTIMISSIMI ●

FRETTE ●

DIXIE ●

HOYA ●

TIM ●

DANIELLE ●

MOOD ●ROBERTO ANTICOLI ●

FELLINI ●

VATURI ●OTHERS ●

BARONE ●

MA

SS

IMO

DU

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CA

LVIN

KL

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● TWIN-SET● ZARA● EXOTICA

● LIU JO

● SWAROVSKI● YAMAMAY● FALCONERI● STROILI ORO● ASOLE E BOTTONI● NARA CAMICIE● KIKO

● LUCCHESI● TEZENIS● G.D.V.● MARC O’POLO● COLONNA● LUISA SPAGNOLI

● ESOTICA● YAMAMAY● OTTICA EFRATI● ALDO ● CARPISA

● DISNEY● GRILLI

● HOUR PASSION● DAVID MAYER NAMAN● CALZEDONIA● MANGO● SWATCH● LE GROUPE● STELLA Z● ENERGIE / MISS SIXTY

● ZARA

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VIA L ATA VIA SS. APOSTOLI

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Piazza Venezia

CELIO ●

GUTTERIDGE ●MIRIADE ●

YAMAMAY ●

SCHEGGE ●

STEFANEL ●

● OMAI NOW OR NEVERSTELLA ● ZETA

● ETY● OTTICA CANOVAI

● LA GARDENIA

● DOPPELGANGER● SAXON’S

● HAMMERSMITH

● SHOPIE CHARLOTTE

● TATIE● TEBE● LEVIATAN● SALOMÈ● LE GROUP● PERONI● ALCOTT● CLASS● RIENZI

Piazza di San Lorenzoin Lucina

VIA DELL A VITE

VIA FR ATTINA

VIA

DE

L C

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VIA CONDOTTI

VIA

CA

MP

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Piazza diSan Lorenzo in Lucina

OB

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P.100

www.hausmann-co.com • [email protected]

Roma

Via del Corso, 406 Via dei Condotti, 28 Via del Babuino, 63 Tel. 06 68 71 501 Tel. 06 321 10 100 Tel. 06 67 91 558

100 | GU I DE

Via del Tritone, Piazza di San Silvestro,Via di San Claudio & Via delle Convertite

VIA DEGLI AVIGNONESI

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VIA DEI SAN CLAUDIO VIA DEL POZZETTO

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VIA DELLA MERCEDE

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VIA

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GalleriaAlberto

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● BEDETTI● BRIC’S

● MEDICI

● G

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RA

RD

●

● RIMOWA

Metro Station

Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer Shopping Centre/Mall

HAUSMANN & CO The history of Roman fne

jewellery house Hausmann &

Co spans over 200 years. This

season, the brand showcases

a collection of stunning items

featuring luxurious materials

like rose gold and titanium. As

ever, the classic designs make

Hausmann & Co a perfect

choice for discerning clients.

The cabochon chalcedony

ring with grey diamonds is a

timeless piece that lends instant

glamour to any outft.

Hausmann & Co,

Via del Corso 406,

00186 Rome, +39 06 687 1501,

hausmann-co.com


GU I DE | 101

VIA

SA

N P

IET

RO

AL

L’OR

TO

CORSO MATTEOTTI

CORSO MONFORTE

C

OR

SO

VE

NE

ZIA

VIA

BA

GU

TT

A

VIA

MO

NT

EN

AP

OL

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NE

VIA BORGOGNA

CA

NA

LI ●

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SS

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● SALMOIRAGHI VIGANÒ ● MORESCHI● BROSWAY● BOGGIBALDININI● TREND● CAMICISSIMA

Piazza San Carlo

SAN BABILA

● DIESEL

● S

UIT

SU

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● V

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●

● GUESS

● EDDY MONETTI● FLORSHEIM

● MILANO OFFICIAL STORE

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● V

AN

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Corso Venezia

Piazza San Babila & Corso Matteotti

CO

RS

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EN

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VIA B AGUTTA

C

OR

SO

VE

NE

ZIA

VIA SENATO

LUCIANO

PADOVAN ●DOLCE & GABBANA ●

MALLONI ●

CAMPAGNA ●CULTI ●

RAIMONDI DI PETTINAROLI ●MOSCA ●

MATIA'S ●

SEITASCHE ●PAR 5 ●

RENCO ●NANDO MUZI ●

THE FLEXX ● VIVIENNE WESTWOOD ●

DE BERNARDI ●OTTICA VENEZIA ●

LIVIANI ●MADINA ●

LINDARICO ●

DOLCE & GABBANA ●DOLCE & GABBANA

BARBIERE ●FLAVIO CASTELLANI ●

NERO GIARDINI ●NERO GIARDINI JUNIOR ●

DOLCE & GABBANA ●COS ●

GRIMOLDI ●BAGATT ●

PRADA ●BRACCIALINI ●

ZARA HOME ●

● STONE ISLAND

● ADD● WHO’S WHO

● WOLFORD● FRANCESCO BIASIA

● GAGÀ MILANO

● ROY ROGERS

● DIEGO M

● ULTIMA EDIZIONE

● EMPRESA

● NOMINATION

● CHRISTOFLE

ALBERTO● GUARDIANI

● PAOLO TONALI

● RED VALENTINO

● LOVE MOSCHINO

● M MISSONI

Piazza San Babila

SAN BABILA

● MESAMIS

Tartufi & Friends

Bar Featured In This Issue

MILAN

Rediscover the art of letter writing at historic Milanese sta-tioner and printer F Pettinaroli, which is known for its superla-tive cards, writing paper and notebooks. The family-owned business, now run by the fourth generation, was founded in 1881, and many of its tech-niques have barely changed since then. This appreciation for traditional craftsmanship is also evident in its selection of leather accessories and antique prints.F Pettinaroli,

Piazza San Fedele 2,

20121 Milan,

+39 02 8646 4642,

fpettinaroli.it

TOP TIP

P.36

Restaurant

102 | GUIDE

Via Montenapoleone & Via della Spiga

CaféGlobal Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer


VIA BORGOSPESSO

VIA SANTO SPIRITO

VIA GESÙ

VIA

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VI A VERRI VIA SANT’ANDREA

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VIA MANZONI

PiazzaCroce Rossa

CORSO VENEZIA

MONTENAPOLEONEARMANI

● MANZONI 31

● LORIBLU

VERTU ●

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA ●

VIERRE ●

MONTBLANC ●

LORO PIANA ●

SERGIO ROSSI ●

TOY WATCH ●CELINE ●

ANGELO FUSCO ●SWATCH ●

TOSCA BLU ●HOGAN ●

MICHELA BRUNI REICHLIN ●BUCCELLATI ●

PHILIPP PLEIN ●

CUSI GIOIELLIERI ●DEVI KROELL ●

VHERNIER ● LOEWE ●

FURECO ●A.TESTONI ●

ITALIA INDEPENDENT ● BREGUET ●

FABI ●BALDININI ●

GIADA ●ASPESI ●

VERSACE ●Marchesi Pasticceria ●

HENRY BEGUELIN ●OMEGA ●

LARUSMIANI ●GUCCI ●ETRO ●

NARA CAMICIE ●BOTTEGA VENETA ●

SUTOR MANTELLASSI ●VILLA MEISSEN ●

FENDI ●SALVATORE FERRAGAMO ●

LA PERLA ●MONCLER ●

IWC ●SIMONETTA RAVIZZA

BY ANNABELLA ●JAEGER LE-COULTRE ●

OFFICINE PANERAI ●FRATELLI ROSSETTI ●

● FALCONERI

● CORNELIANI

● PINKOROLEX BOUTIQUE -

● PISA OROLOGERIA

● GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN

● GRIFFE

● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

● VALENTINO

● ALBERTA FERRETTI

● MALO● MARIANO RUBINACCI

● CARTIER● PAUL & SHARK● DIOR● GIANFRANCO LOTTI● HERMÈS● MARNI● DIOR● BURBERRY● VAN CLEEF & ARPELS● KID SPACE● ALBA ELOISA● DAMIANI

● PRADA WOMANGIUSEPPE ZANOTTI ● DESIGN● FEDELI RED AND BLUE● BALLY● SABBADINI● ROBERTO CAVALLI● CAMPER● SANTONI● PRADA MEN’S FASHION● AUDEMARS PIGUET

● GIORGIO ARMANI● LOUIS VUITTON● BULGARI

Cova

● EMILIO PUCCI

● ACQUA DI PARMA

VILEBREQUIN ● CASTELLO D’ORO ●

BYBLOS ●COLOMBO ●

PIQUADRO ●FRETTE ●

DE NICOLA ●MONNALISA BABY ●

RUCOLINE ●

LANVIN ●

PHILLIPP PLEIN ●

GANDINI TESSUTI ●

PAOLO PECORA ●

TIFFANY & CO. ●

BELSTAFF ●

FRANCK MULLER GENEVE ●RICHARD MILLE ●

RIVOLTA DAL 1883 MILANO ●FAY ●

POLLINI ●

MIU MIU ●

SCAVIA ●COLOMBO VIA

DELLA SPIGA ● SICIS JEWELS ●

TORY BURCH ●MONCLER ●

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI ●GHERARDINI ●

MARCO BICEGO ●KURT GEIGER ●

CAR SHOE ●SPIGA UNO ●CHIMENTO ●

FALCONERI ●CROMIA ●

SEBASTIAN ●

● PAKERSON● MONNA LISA● PRETTY BALLERINAS ● MARISA● ROCCO BAROCCO● SARABANDA● MARNI● BLUGIRL BLUMARINE● CARLO MORETTI ● MISS BLUMARINE● LES COPAINSMAISON MARTIN● MARGIELA● SERMONETA GLOVES● PORSCHE DESIGN● FABIANA FILIPPI● ROSATO● I PINCO PALLINO● SERAPIAN● PORSCHE DESIGN● ALAN JOURNO● MEGA FASHION● ATTOS● NILU FAR● BRUNELLO CUCINELLI● Nº 30 MILANO● L.B.M. 1911● BLUMARINE● MOSCHINO● DOLCE & GABBANA

● TOD’S● SPORTMAX● PRADA

● CHOPARD● MICHAEL KORS● PASQUALE BRUNI● PEUTEREY

● LONGCHAMP● GIÒ MORETTI● DOLCE & GABBANA

KRIZIA ●

Global Blue Lounge

Global Blue Lounge

BOTTEGA VENETA

Bottega Veneta has opened its

frst Home Collection boutique

in Milan, located within the

18th-century Palazzo Gallarati

Scotti. This vast store is aimed

at those who seek luxurious

furnishings crafted from the

highest quality materials.

Creative director Tomas Maier

designed the store to connect

the past and the present: here,

modern design is informed by

the luxury and craftsmanship

of heritage. Introduced in 2006,

the Home Collection’s frst

item was a bench designed by

Maier which featured the same

materials that are used to make

the brand’s luggage.

Bottega Veneta,

Via Montenapoleone 5,

20121 Milan,

+39 02 7602 4495,

bottegaveneta.com

P.104

P.106

P.36

P.52

Metro Station

104 | GUIDE

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele,Piazza del Duomo & Via Torino

VIA

S.P

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LIC

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AD

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CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE

VIA

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1914

●

ITALIA MISSORI

BERSHKA ●MM

●BIBA ●

BOTTEGA VERDE ●

SWEET W

AY ●M

AC ●

BOUTIQUE DEL GIOIELLO ●

TRE ESSE SPORT ●

AW LAB ●

CIP GIOIELLI ●

PULL & BEAR ●

SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ ●

KIEHL’S ●

GUESS ●TEZENIS ●

TALLY WEIJL ●

DIXIE ●

● LUIGI VERGAPiazza Pio XI

PiazzaCordusio

DANTE CORDUSIO

Piazza Del Duomo

DUOMO

Piazza Santa

Maria Beltrade

ZARA ●

OVS INDUSTRY ●●

OYSHO●

INTIMISSIM

I

● CALZEDONIA

● NARA CAM

ICIE

● CAM

PER

● GEOX

● FOOT LOCKER

● DESIGUAL

● M

ANGO

● M

CS● NIKE STORE

● VERGELIO

● CARPISA

● KIKO

● KEY BE

● PIM

KIE

● ACCESSORIZE

● YAM

AMAY

● M

ARCO

● OTTICA BARELLO

● TRONY

GA

LL

ER

IA V

ITT

OR

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MA

NU

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E

VIA

ME

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ON

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CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE

● BORSALINO● CENTENARI● MEJANA● PIUMELLI● CHURCH’S● NOLI● BRIC’S● GUCCI● GIORGIO ARMANI

● LOUIS VUITTON

COMUNE DI MILANOURBAN CENTRE ●

RIZZOLI ●

ANDREW’S TIES ●

LUISA SPAGNOLI ●

LEO PIZZO ●

PRADA ●

● OXUS

● VIGANÓ

● LIBRERIA BOCCA

● MASSIMO DUTTI

TOD’S ●

SWAROVSKI ●

VERSACE ●

MERCEDES ME ●

ISTITUTO POLIGRAFICO ●

STEFANEL ●

NARA CAMICIE ●

CADÉ ●

● PRADA

Metro StationGlobal Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

GIANFRANCO LOTTIPrestigious accessories special-

ist Gianfranco Lotti has re-

cently opened a new boutique.

To celebrate, 20 limited-edition

styles have been created which

are exclusive to the store on Via

Montenapoleone. In addition,

the store carries the brand’s

latest collection of sophisticated

handbags, beautiful gloves

and more, all made with the

fnest materials and attention

to detail.

Gianfranco Lotti,


20121 Milan,

+39 02 9132 5892,

gianfrancolotti.com


GU I DE | 105

Corso Vittorio Emanuele

VIALARGA

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SAN BABILA

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P.38

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106 | GUIDE

Via Pietro Verri, Piazza Meda & Via Sant’Andrea

V

IA G

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VIA BIGLI

VIA DELLA SPIGA

VIA BAGUTTA

VIA

PIE

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VIA MONTENAPOLEONE

Piazza Meda

SAINT LAURENT ●

MIU MIU ●

PREMIATA●

ROGER VIVIER ●

BOTTEGA VENETA ●

AGNONA ●

CHURCH’S ●

GIVENCHY ●

CARLO ELEUTERI ●

TRUSSARDI DAL 1911 ●

BORSALINO ●

ERES ●

LE SILLA ●

GUIDO PASQUALI ●

JIMMY CHOO ●

CASADEI ●

PISA OROLOGERIA ●PATEK PHILIPPE-

PISA OROLOGERIA ●BURBERRY ●

ETRO PROFUMI ●CRUCIANI ●

JOHN RICHMOND ●

ICEBERG ●

PIA MARIANI ●

MASSIMO SFORZA ●

AGENT PROVOCATEUR ●TUMI ●

TOM FORD ●LANIFICIO DI TOLLEGNO ●

CANALI ●BALDININI ●

ELEVENTY ●PUNTO OTTICO ●

RAVAZZOLO ●CASTELLANI ●

● BERLUTI

● JIL SANDER NAVY

● MOSCHINO

● HERNO● GIAMBATTISTA VALLIERIKA CAVALLINI ● SEMI- COUTURE

● CHANEL

● IRIS

● STUART WEIZMANN

● BANNER

● CESARE PACIOTTI

● DORIANI

● MISSONI

● PIAGET

● GUCCI

● ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

● JIL SANDER

● LA MARTINA

● DSQUARED2

● BILANCIONI

● MALIPARMI

ROSALBA ●

Via San Pietro all’Orto

VIA

BE

CC

AR

IA

VIA

BIG

LI

VIA

SA

NT

’AN

DR

EA

VIA

MO

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AP

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CORSO MATTEOTTI

VIA

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L’O

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CORSO VITTORIO EMA NUELE

BOGLIOLI ●

MASCHIO ●

EYE STYLE ●

POMELLATO ●

VERSACE COLLECTION ●

YOUNG VERSACE ●

MONDADODRI MULTICENTER ●

SAMSONITE ●

MAURO LEONE ●

CONTIGO ●

BOSE ●

CASHMIRINO ●

FOR PETS ONLY ●

● ISAIA

● BAGUTTA

● IL GUFO

● ABERCROMBIE & FITCH

ZEPTER

● INTERNATIONAL

● BROOKS BROTHERS

● PRONOVIAS

● SANDRO FERRONE

● MARCO


OMEGA

The exclusive Via

Montenapoleone is the ideal

setting for Omega’s newly

opened boutique, the frst

Italian fagship for the Swiss

watchmaker. Spanning three

storeys, the shop stocks the

brand’s timepieces in addition

to its fne jewellery and leather

collections. Visitors can expect

impeccable, personal service

from the highly knowledgeable

members of staf.

Omega,


20121 Milan,

+39 02 7600 0984,

omegawatches.com


P.49

108 | GUIDE

Corso Buenos Aires

VIAFELICE

CASATI

CO

RS

OV

EN

IZIA

VIALE VITTORIO

VENETO

VIALETU

NISIA

VIALEREGIN

AGIOVAN

NA

VIA PA

NFILO

CASTA

LDI

Piazza SantaFrancesca Romana

BASTIO

NI D

I PORTA

VEN

EZIA

VIAM

ARCELLOM

ALPIGHI

VIALA

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VIA

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PiazzaGuglielmoOberdan

CO

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NO

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NO

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PORTA VENEZIA

CALVIN KLEIN JEANS ●

VERGELIO ●SISTE’S ●

GAMESTOP ●

STRADIVARIUS ●FBL ●

FOSSIL ●IANA ●

SOLARIS ●KIKO ●

PEPE JEANS ●STEFANEL ●

DOUGLAS ●PERSONA ●ALTIERI ●

SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ ●

● DANIEL & MAYER ● KOCCA

● ANTONY MORATO

● AERONAUTICA MILITARE● CARRERA JEANS

● NIKE MILANO ● M COLLECTIVE

● PIQUADRO● GUESS KIDS

● GUESS

● JDC URBAN STORE

● MERREL

● F.LLI SOLENNE GIOIELLI

● MILANO HOUSE OF CASHMERE

● CLARKS● RITA BOUTIQUE

● LIU JO● DIECIDECIMI

● FURLA

BRACCIALINI ●PANDORA ●

DESIGUAL ●STROILI ORO ●

GEOX ●SWAROVSKI ●

L’OCCITANE ●

Grom

Metro StationGlobal Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

L’ARABESQUE

A visit to L’Arabesque is like

taking a step back in time,

albeit to a perfectly curated and

impeccably stylish version of

the past. The store is known

for its vintage clothing and

costume jewellery alongside

rare 1950s and 1960s designer

furniture. Browse the store’s

library of out-of-print fashion,

photography, interiors, art

and flm publications before

heading to the restaurant.

L’Arabesque,

Largo Augusto 10,

20122 Milan,

+39 02 7601 4825,

larabesque.net

Gelateria

SHOPPING IS

BETTER WHEN

YOU DO IT

TAX FREE.

Join Global Blue for free, explore your city, find the best stores, and savemoney on everything you buy.

globalblue.com/join

110 | GUIDE

VENICE

Calle Larga XXII Marzo& Salizada San Moisè


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LA

RE

SS

O

EMANNO

● SCERVINO

● BALENCIAGA

● CELINE

ROBERTO

● CAVALLI

● CHURCH'S

● VHERNIER

● MISSONI

● TOY WATCH

● MARLY'S

RAGGIO VENEZIANO

Located in the charming

Campo Santo Stefano, Raggio

Veneziano specialises in

exquisite leather bags, which

are stitched by hand using

hides coloured using traditional

vegetable dyes. Thoughtful

fnishing touches such as

Murano glass detailing make

any of Raggio Veneziano’s

bags a worthwhile memento of

Venice and its long tradition of

fne craftsmanship.

Raggio Veneziano,

Campo Santo Stefano,

San Marco 2953,

30124 Venice,

+39 041 241 2712,

raggioveneziano.com

P.34

P.38P.46

Café

GU I DE | 111

globalblue.com

Piazza San Marco

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● VENINI

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P.114

CHOPARD

Fans of Chopard’s distinctive

Imperiale collection will be

delighted by the recent addition

of a new jewellery-inspired

timepiece, the Imperiale

36mm Joaillerie. Its 18-carat

white gold case and mother-

of-pearl dial are both adorned

with diamonds, making the

watch perfect for evening,

while the minimalist grey and

silver colour scheme keeps it

looking truly modern: this is

understated glamour at its best.

Chopard,

Piazza San Marco,


+39 041 523 1883,

chopard.com

112 | GUIDE

CA

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● MATTIUZZI● 786

● BAMPA● IL CORALLO

● PAGNACCO

723 ●FABRIS RICAMI ●

LA PARIGINA ●BIALETTI ●

LUISA SEMENZATO ●LA PARIGINA ●

JB GUANTI ●ASTOLFO ●

LIBER ●

R. TIOZZO ●LUISA SPAGNOLI ●

● 236● SWAROVSKI

● GIOIELLERIA GAMBINO ● GUCCI

● VIVICI ● OTTICA VENEZIANA

● SOLARIS ● CARGASACCHI

● AD

● VIVA ● MARINA RINALDI

● SPAZIO A● MORELLATO● KIEHL'S

L’OCCITANE ●229 ●

REMINISCENCE ●DOLCE & GABBANA ●

LE MURRINE VENEZIANE ●

LA MASCHERA DEL GALEONE ●LACOSTE ●PANDORA ●

RECARLO ●BUCCELLATI ●

MANDARINA DUCK ●POLLINI ●

ROVOLETTO ●OREFICERIA DELL’OROLOGIO ●

● MACRI

Mercerie di San Salvador, Capitello, San Zulian & dell’Orologio

SAN SALVADOR

● BATA

● COCCINELLE

● PELLETTERIA

LA

PE

RL

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MARINA RINALDI

Layers and textures take centre

stage in Marina Rinaldi’s

collection for autumn/winter

2015/16, which focuses on a

wintry but warm palette of deep

greys, navy blues, muted jewel

tones and, of course, classic

black. Contrasting materials

are superimposed to add a

new dimension to timeless

silhouettes. Lace and wool

add texture, while fashes of

bold checks and animal prints

stand out against slimming

block colours. As always with

Marina Rinaldi, the hourglass

is the central shape, and the

collection wouldn’t be complete

without a selection of waist-

cinching belts.

Marina Rinaldi,

Merceria de l’Orologio,


+39 041 277 0064, marinarinaldi.com

114 | GUIDE

Murano


FONDAMENTADEIVETRAI

FONDAMENTADELAM

ULA

FONDAMENTAMANIN

RAMOSANCIPRIANO

SIGNORETTO LAMPADARI ●

IDEA MURANO ●

VETRERIA ARTISTICA LA FENICE ●

MAZZEGA GLASS FACTORY ●

MARCHETTI MARIA ●

CAMPAGNOL E SALVADORE ●

PESCE PESCE ●

FIORE FIORE ●

COLLELLI & OTTERDAHL ●

ARTIZ ●

SOFFIO DI VETRO ●

EFFE DUE MURANO ●

PICCOLI PENSIERI ●

DOMUS VETRI D’ARTE ●

ANTICA VETRERIA ●

GIOIELLI R.T. MURANO ●

NEROPACO ●VETRI D'ARTE RAVANELLO ●

VENINI ●

OROVETRO ●

IL VETRO DI FUGA ●

SCHIAVON MURANO ●

CESARE TOFFOLO ●

LUCEVETRO ●

BAROVIER & TOSO ●

GIAMPAOLO NASON VETRI ARTISTICI ●

FRANCO SCHIAVON GALLERY ●

VETRERIA COLONNA ●

CESARE SENT ●

SCHIAVON ●

CAM ●

● FERRO VETRO

● APA GIOIELLI

● F.LLI MORETTI● MOSAICI DONÀ MURANO

● SEGUSO VIRO● COSE COSÌ

● MIRIAM● LAMBERTI RAFFAELLA

● VETRI G. BASTIANELLO● MORI SNC

● L'ARTE MURANESE● F & M BALLARIN

● M. CAVAGNIS

● NASON MORETTI MURANO

● ORIGINAL MURANO

● BOTTEGA DEL VETRO

● ARTIGIANATO VENEZIANO

● VETROMANIA

● ART BIJOUX

● ANDREA 2000

● CARLO MORETTI

● C & G

● LINEA MURANO ART

● FORNACE GINO MAZZUCCATO

● VETRERIA ARTISTICA GRITTI

SERENDIPITY

As befts its location on Piazza

San Marco, Serendipity

produces jewellery that is

exquisite as well as personal.

The designs available are

varied, from Murano glass

pendants to intricate cameos,

but it’s the coral collection

that’s a real showstopper. The

pieces are made using genuine

coral from the Mediterranean,

resulting in beautiful, timeless

jewellery that you’ll wear again

and again.

Serendipity,

Piazza San Marco,


+39 041 522 3273,

serendipityitaly.com * for map go to page 111PH

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ITA

LY.C

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116 | GUIDE

Via de’ Tornabuoni, Via degli Strozzi

& Via Porta Rossa

Via della Vigna Nuova

Place Of InterestGlobal Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer


VIA DELLA VIGNA NUOVA

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GUCCI ●

GUCCI ●

ANNE FONTAINE ●

PRADA ●

MONTBLANC ●GIANFRANCO LOTTI ●

PRADA ● SAVE THE QUEEN! ●

ARMANI JUNIOR ●DODO ●

TIFFANY & CO. ●

BURBERRY ●OMEGA ●

SPACE ● DIOR ●

IL GUFO ●DESMO ●

HERMÈS ●LORETTA CAPONI ●

LES COPAINS ●

ERBORISTERIA INGLESE ●

ROLEX / FANI GIOIELLI ●

HOGAN ●

PARENTI ●

POMELLATO ●

ROBERTO CAVALLI ●

● LOCMAN ITALY● CASADEI● LORI BLU● MAX MARA

● TOD’S

● ERMANNO SCERVINO

● TOMMY HILFIGER

● MOMONI

● MICHELE NEGRI

● ELEUTERIOLFATTORIO MUSEO● DELLE CIPRIE● DAMIANI● CÉLINE● PUCCIDOLCE & ● GABBANA

● GIORGIO ARMANI

PELLICCERIA ● ROMANELLI

● INNIU

SERGIO ROSSI ●

● LORO PIANA

EMPORIO● ARMANI● MILORD

VITTORIO DI GIACOMO ●

PALAZZO

STROZZI

MUSEO

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO ● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

ASPESI

● UOMO

● VALMAR

● LE VANITA'

● NOI

● OTTINO

● GAZZARRINI

● MISSONI

● ASPESI

● BERNARDO

● RIMOWA

● PAMPALONI

● ALBERTA FERRETTI

● BALENCIAGA

● CELLERINI

BOTTEGA QUATTRO ●

DEGAIA ●

● ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

● FENDI

APROSIO & CO ●

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FLORENCE

P.118

P.120

P.122

P.37

P.46

P.49

P.50

P.50

P.146

118 | GUIDE

Via Roma &

Via Calimala

Via dei Calzaiuoli

VIA DEI L AMBERTI

VIA DEI TOSINGHI VIA DELLE OCHE

VIA DEI TAVOLINI

Piazza dellaSignoria

VIA

RO

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LA

VIA

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VIA

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VIA PORTA ROSSA VIA DELLA CONDOTTA

VIA DEGLI SPEZIALI VIA DEL CORSO

● LUISA SPAGNOLI● COCCINELLE● NARA CAMICIE● SOLARIS● QUERCIOLI● GUIDORENI

● FURLA

● LEATHER FACTORY

● CALZEDONIA● WOLFORD

● PYLONES● COIN● MOSSA● STEFANEL

Piazza del Duomo

● FREY WILLE● FIRENZE PRATESI● STROILI ORO● MANETTI● GERONICO● OROLOGERIA R MARRETTI● KIKO● TEZENIS● YAMAMAY

● ENRICO VERITÀ ● TIM● BATA

ARMANDO POGGI ●

INTIMISSIMI ●

GREISY ●

CALZAIUOLI 91 ●

MAX & CO ●

MIGONE ●CARPISA ●

SALMOIRAGHI& VIGANÒ ●

DISNEY ●

PROFUMERIA ALINE ●

GOLDEN POINT ●

ACQUA DELL'ELBA ●SWAROVSKI ●

LOMBARDI ● ATHLETIC WORD ●

FALCONERI ●

PUSATERI ●RE NERO ●

L’OCCITANE ● BEMPORAD ●

FARMACIA MOLTENI ●CORSANI ●ATESETA ●

FOSSIL ●

CHANEL ●

VIA DEI TOSINGHI

VIA

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VIA

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VIA DEI L AMBERTI

● PUMA

● CORNELIANI

● LIU JO● DIESEL

● ZARA

● LIU JO

● GUCCI

● PINKO

● LIU JO UOMO

● MISS SIXTY

● EMPORIO ARMANI

● MIU MIU● ROBERTO BIAGINI

● MICHAEL KORS

● BOSS STORE

LA RINASCENTE ●

MASSIMO DUTTI ●

PRADA ●LE SILLA ●

LUISA VIA ROMA ●LONGCHAMP ●

● CLARKS

SISLEY ●

MYWALIT ●

MORESCHI ●

CALIMALA 31 ● GUYA ●

ROY ROGERS ● ATOS LOMBARDINI ●

GOLF ●

ZARA ●

GEOX ● PIQUADRO ●

TWIN SET ●

DIESEL ●

● SANDRO PARIS


IL BISONTE

Historic Florentine company

Il Bisonte has won acclaim

the world over for its top-

quality leather goods. The

brand balances sensibility

of its heritage with skilled

anticipation of the needs

and tastes of its many fans.

The autumn/winter 2015/16

collection focuses on Il

Bisonte’s timeless styles,

adapted to suit the needs of

its wearers. Expect shoulder

and messenger bags alongside

backpacks in a practical range

of sizes. Visit the Via del

Parione boutique to admire

the new materials and striking

colour combinations, such as

the vibrant Pompeii red cotton

canvas and emerald green

suede linings.

Il Bisonte,

Via del Parione 31R-33R,

50123 Florence,

+39 055 215722, ilbisonte.com


PH

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120 | GUIDE

Piazza del Duomo & Via del Corso

PIA Z Z A

DEL DUOMO

VIA

DE

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AR

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VIA

DE

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RC

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Piazza diSan Giovanni Piazza del Duomo

VIA

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PIAZZA DEL DUOMO

VIA DEL CORSO

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VIA

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122 | GUIDE

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Café

GUIDE | 123

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Джош Симс рассказывает о итальянской группе компаний Slowear, которая выступает против скоротечной моды, предлагая взамен инновационные и долговечные ткани

Скоротечная мода подразумевает быстрый оборот одежды текущих трендов по очень доступным, практически бросовым ценам, и, делая такие заявления компания Slowear звучит довольно старомодно, а это, пожалуй, последнее, что должно характеризовать какой-либо модный бренд. Однако итальянская корпорация, как можно понять из ее названия, не торопится радикально менять стиль для стимулирования продаж.

«Несмотря на свою необычность, название Slowear показалось нам идеальным описанием нашей философии, – говорит сооснователь корпорации Роберто Компаньо, в подчинении которого также находится семейная компания Incotex, основанная еще его отцом в 1951 году. – Мы против скоротечной моды так

58: Enduring Style

Бессмертный Стиль

РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД

TRANSLATIONS

же, как движение Slow Food, противостоит системе быстрого питания. Такая идея вызывала большее удивление 10 лет назад, и многие представители модной индустрии считали нас странными ребятами. Сейчас наши идеи находят повсеместное одобрение».

Подобно различным компаниям из других отраслей, Slowear старается отвечать требованиям потребителей, нуждающихся в изделиях с экологичным и долговечным дизайном. Компаньо полагает, что подобно продуктовой индустрии, потребителей которой волнует происхождение того или иного товара, индустрия моды также будет объектом пристального изучения со стороны покупателей, тем более, что уровень потребительского сознания в последнее время значительно вырос, как впрочем и качество изделий.

К слову о происхождении товара, компания имеет довольно необычную историю производства. Изначально корпорация Incotex занималась производством исключительно военной формы, затем появилась линия брюк. «Со временем мы произвели над брюками все возможные манипуляции, и решили, что настало время для нового

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направления», – делится Компаньо. Череда поглощений и слияний привела в корпорацию ряд малоизвестных, но квалифицированных компаний, включая Glanshirt – специализирующуюся на рубашках, Montedoro – на верхней одежде и Zanone – на трикотаже, кроме того была запущена новая линия одежды Archivio, в основу которой легли ткани из архивов Incotex.

Эти «медленные бренды», как их называет Компаньо, до сих пор функционируют, выпуская одежду, как оптом, так и для индивидуальных коллекций, реализующихся в магазинах Ofcina Slowear. Недавно состоялось открытие второго магазина в Париже и одного в Падуе, также планируется открытие множества представительств в других городах мира, в том числе в Нью-Йорке. Медленно, но уверенно Slowear набирает обороты.

Отдельного упоминания заслуживает подход компании к дизайну. Вместо того чтобы выпускать сезонные коллекции, бренд создает новые серии тогда, когда посчитает нужным, а точнее, когда технический департамент, на исследовательские нужды которого приходится 5% оборота компании, создаст что-то по-настоящему новое. К слову, бренд может похвастаться солидным портфолио в области инноваций. В число созданных

предприятием тканей входят: Chinolino – смесь хлопка и льна, сохранившая дышащие свойства одного и мягкость другого материала; Incochino – крашенный в пряже габардин с тройной конструкцией, разработка которой заняла без малого пять лет; есть также Flexwool, Ice Cotton и Shade Cashmere, не глядя на которые лишь по названию можно понять, что речь идет о высоких технологиях.

Компания также смело может претендовать на новаторскую технику окрашивания одежды, а именно применения красителя на уже готовую продукцию, нежели использование предварительно окрашенных тканей. Производство требует неукоснительного следования инструкциям: каждая рубашка Glanshirt, например, проходит тройную стирку, при которой ткань не травмируется, но наоборот приобретает дополнительную свежесть.

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множество историй о том, как итальянские компании неизменно следуют своим традициям, заложенным еще десятки или сотни лет назад, – говорит Компаньо. – Мы вам таких сказок не расскажем. В нашем производстве используется самое современное оборудование, способствующее развитию новых технологий и соответственно более качественных продуктов.

Мы считаем, что если создать правильный крой и пропорции, то одежда не только не износится, но и будет выглядеть современно даже 50 лет спустя. Мне кажется, что наш подход можно назвать самым что ни наесть прогрессивным. Создание одежды сомнительного качества, да еще и по заоблачным ценам в наши дни выглядит занятием довольно странным. Покупатели стремятся к индивидуальному подходу в поиске нужных вещей. Определенную роль в этом вопросе сыграл и экономический кризис, вследствие которого название бренда уже не так влияет на выбор одежды. Они хотят инновационных и качественных продуктов по разумным ценам.

То же относится и к покупательскому опыту. Чтобы лишний раз подчеркнуть корпоративный девиз «качество по разумной цене», компания не тратится на излишества в интерьере бутиков: нет ни

мрамора, ни дорогого стекла.Это, по словам Компаньо,

было бы просто не правильно для бренда, для которого важен не показной эффект, а суть, не мимолетность, а долговечность моды. «В последние годы мода не уделяла никакого внимания качеству, потому что не было смысла, – говорит он. – Мода проходит, не успев появиться. Однако такому положению дел суждено измениться. И брендам придется измениться в том числе».slowear.com

68: Paper Trail

Бумажный След

Легендарные итальянские производители канцелярских товаров достойно реагируют на вызовы современности без ущерба традиционному мастерству, – рассказывает Верити Хоган Традиционная итальянская бумага восхищала не одно поколение ценителей изящного, начиная от герцогов Савойи и заканчивая молодыми аристократами, отправлявшимися в путешествие «Гран-тур».

Сегодня бумажная индустрия страны по-прежнему почивает на лаврах славы. Большая часть производства основывается на лучших традиционных материалах, а техника изготовления мало чем отличается от той, что применялась в начале 18

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века. Ассортимент изделий весьма широк и охватывает практически все: от кожаных ежедневников и тисненой бумаги для письма до визитных карточек и картонных ящиков.

Старейший из имеющихся в Европе бумажных документов (не считая пергаментных) хранится в государственном фонде в Палермо. Текст документа написан на арабском и греческом языке, а сам документ датируется 1109 годом. Принято полагать, что начиная с 13 века, итальянские мастера освоили древний способ производства бумаги и решили поставить дело на коммерческую основу, мгновенно получив всемирное признание. Не много компаний могут похвастаться столь же богатым опытом в сфере производства бумаги, как у Fabriano, чья история началась еще в 1264 году. Своим

именем компания обязана небольшому городу Фабриано в регионе Марке. Это место стало крупным центром бумажной промышленности из-за свой близости к порту Анкона, в который регулярно прибывали грузы из стран Ближнего Востока. Бумага для рисования, производившаяся здесь в 15 столетии, получила высокую оценку самого Микеланджело. Именно в этом городе были открыты многие инновационные технологии, использующиеся по сей день, например, водяные знаки и способ грунтования бумаги с помощью желатина.

Компания Fabriano возникла на базе тех самых ремесленных мастерских и смогла сохранить популярность благодаря своей способности адаптироваться, замечать новые тенденции и реагировать на изменение потребительского спроса. Ассортимент продукции давно вышел за рамки изобразительного искусства и стал включать привычные канцелярские принадлежности, блокноты и наборы для письма.

Сегодня компания также старается придерживаться экологичности производства, используя в качестве источника энергии собственную ГЭС. В то же время продукция другой известной компании Il Papiro остается верна бесхитростной ремесленнической традиции, а каждый из 18 магазинов

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бренда повторяет элегантную атмосферу самого первого бутика компании, открытого во Флоренции. Ассортимент варьируется от записных книжек с «огуречным» орнаментом до кожаных ежедневников и восхитительной мраморной бумаги ручной работы. Основатели компании Франческо Джаннини и Джанни Паренти родились во Флоренции и имеют тесные связи с местной общиной ремесленников. Своей главной задачей они считают сохранение исторического шарма и первоклассного качества, бросающего вызов скоротечным тенденциям.

Pineider – один из старейших производителей бумаги. Свой первый магазин Франческо Пинейжер открыл в 1774 году и сумел снискать расположение самых взыскательных клиентов.

«Наши канцелярские принадлежности уникальны

и известны практически во всем мире благодаря своему непревзойденному качеству и эксклюзивным способам печати наших мастеров-художников, – поясняет пресс-секретарь компании Линда Замбони. – Наша бумажная продукция не содержит хлора, а используемые чернила только натурального происхождения. Что касается методов, то мы применяем традиционную итальянскую технику, благодаря которой бумага приятна на ощупь и идеальна для письма».

Компания смогла успешно существовать на протяжении более чем 240 лет, сохраняя свои бесценные традиции. Конечно, не обошлось и без современных технологий. «Разумеется, новые методы и технологии повлияли на некоторые производственные процессы, – говорит Замбони, – но окраска некоторых элементов в наших коллекциях до сих пор осуществляется мастерами вручную, как в старые добрые

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времена. То же относится и к картонным ящикам для хранения вещей, которые создаются вручную у нас в цехе». Широкий ассортимент продукции Pineider, включающий буквально все, от оригинальных визитных карточек до роскошной писчей бумаги с рельефными узорами и гербами, порой привлекал немало знаменитостей. Среди клиентов компании были такие писатели, как Лорд Байрон и Элизабет Барретт Браунинг, а также голливудские звезды, от Марлен Дитрих до Элизабет Тейлор. «Самые изысканные покупатели отдают предпочтение нашей продукции, – говорит Замбони, и мы чрезвычайно благодарны всем, кто ценит уникальное качество канцелярских принадлежностей, рожденных в Италии». На сегодняшний день в коллекции бренда представлен широкий ряд товаров: от изящной бумаги для особо важных писем с ручной гравировкой до современных открыток и конвертов квадратной формы.

Коллекция элегантных открыток и конвертов Capri отличается оригинальными рисунками и окаймлением, нанесенным вручную с использованием исключительно натуральных пигментов, и вдобавок имеет подкладку из папирусной бумаги. Компания не прекращает развиваться.

Замбони делится очередной

инновацией, державшейся до недавних пор в секрете: Pineider собирается запустить новейшую технологию нанесения изображений. По ее словам это «позволит наносить вручную рельефный каллиграфический текст». В мире, где господствуют электронные системы коммуникации, отрадно видеть, что в Италии спрос на качественные письменные принадлежности не только не упал, но и вырос.

Компании, которые прежде были нацелены лишь на представителей творческой элиты и аристократов-путешественников, теперь стараются отвечать всем вызовам современного общества, не теряя при этом своего уникального шарма.

Замбони поясняет: «Ручная гравировка возникла много веков назад, но время не стоит на месте, и появляется много новых техник. Лишь одно вечно останется неизменным – это точность и мастерство художника-гравировщика». fabriano.com, ilpapirofrenze.it,

pineider.com

78: Man On A Mission

Миссия Выполнима

Джорджио Армани отмечает 40-летие своего одноименного модного дома и по-прежнему строит планы на будущее, – рассказывает Ханна ЛьюисВ начале этого года Джорджио Армани в окружении 500

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гостей из числа голливудских звезд и политических деятелей с большим размахом отпраздновал 40-летие основания своего легендарного дома моды. Одновременно с открытием выставки Expo Milano 2015 бренд Armani презентовал новую экспозицию Armani/Silos, устроил грандиозный шоу-показ избранных работ, а в конце дня пригласил всех участников на коктейль в ночной клуб Armani Privé.

Праздничное шоу перенесло гостей на четыре десятилетия назад к самым истокам создания линии кутюр Giorgio Armani Privé. Это была впечатляющая ретроспектива из 160 образов, демонстрирующих очарование, разнообразие и необычайно яркую для бренда палитру. Представленные работы, от многослойных юбок-пачек кремового цвета до алых платьев в пол, ясно свидетельствовали о неиссякаемом таланте дизайнера и его способности создавать красивую и неподвластную времени одежду.

Поразительно, но это всего лишь малая часть всего портфолио Armani. Модный дом объединяет в целом восемь различных брендов, выпускающих все: от аксессуаров и предметов интерьера до детской одежды и бальных платьев. В одной только Италии насчитывается 49 торговых площадок марки,

включая флагманский магазин Armani Casa, кафе Armani café и вышеупомянутый клуб Club Privé.

Достижения Armani за последние 40 лет можно изучать днями и все-равно это будет лишь поверхностью айсберга. Как однажды заявил сам дизайнер: «Я сделал все». Он удивительно практичен во всем, что делает, начиная от первоначальных эскизов и заканчивая мельчайшими корректировками по выбору ткани, – всеми процессами Армани руководит лично.

Многие модные обозреватели, включая самого дизайнера, видят секрет плодотворности его творчества в позднем начале карьеры. Сейчас дизайнеру 81 год, а свой знаменитый бренд он основал, когда ему уже исполнилось 40. И даже за эти четыре декады ему удалось создать столько, сколько обычный человек создавал бы всю свою жизнь. Марка Armani возникла в 1975 году, и уже год спустя успех от его коллекций прокатился волной по всему миру. Представленная им серия готовой одежды как нельзя лучше отвечала требованиям современной женщины тех времен.

Коллекции Armani сыграли первоочередную роль в формировании образа эпохи, и в то время как другие компании были преданы забвению вместе с

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прошедшими трендами, бренду удалось остаться лидером во многих направлениях, от костюмов до вечерних платьев. Талантливый дизайнер всегда думает о следующем сезоне, и Армани обладает практически сверхъестественной способностью создавать такую одежду, которая мгновенно становится актуальной и классической. Одежда Armani – это одежда, которая будет носиться целую вечность.

На новой выставочной площадке Armani/Silos, открывшейся одновременно с ретроспективным шоу-показом и торжественным вечером, было представлено 600 ключевых образов, а также коллекция эскизов, зарисовок и образцов тканей из архивов Armani. Ни в коей мере это нельзя назвать музеем, ведь Armani чужда стагнация. Ожидается, что экспозиция будет обновляться каждые шесть месяцев. Помещение выставки, служившее ранее в качестве амбара, было тщательно отреставрировано, но при

этом сохранило многие детали изначального помещения, – так Armani демонстрирует свою страсть к сочетанию традиций и современности.

Расположенный в другом конце города флагманский бутик Armani Montenapoleone недавно был модернизирован. Магазин, находящийся в старинном здании Palazzo Taverna, также сочетает в себе черты старого и нового. Планировка была возвращена к исходному варианту, но каждая комната была убрана роскошными материалами, такими как мрамор и оникс. Здесь можно найти наиболее полную коллекцию бренда, а также услугу пошива одежды по индивидуальному заказу.

Милан был самым очевидным местом для открытия флагманского магазина. И хотя дизайнер родом из Пьяченцы, жил, работал и основал свой бренд он именно в Милане.

Несмотря на впечатляющие достижения, дизайнер не собирается останавливаться

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на достигнутом. В настоящий момент он работает над созданием серии аксессуаров, в том числе над сумками, которые будут выходить вне зависимости от привычных сезонов. Армани не привык полагаться на аксессуары так, как это делают другие дома моды, но аудиторию своих поклонников он знает отлично, поэтому решил преподнести им сюрприз.

Презентация сумки Le Sac 11 была приурочена к юбилейному торжеству: она имеет классический дизайн в минималистском стиле, удобную ручку и доступна в трех размерах и различных цветовых решениях. Цифра «11» была выбрана не случайно: день рождения Армани выпадает на 11 число, а знаменитая штаб-квартира компании также находится в доме под номером 11. Несмотря на такой намек, сумка была создана с учетом настоящего и будущего, как, впрочем, и все остальные творения бренда. Изысканный дизайн, разработанный для сегодняшнего дня, чтобы служить многие годы – именно в этом заключается философия Armani. armani.com

124: When You Shop The

World, Shop Tax Free

Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free

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Контакты:[email protected]+421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €154.94 и сэкономьте до 15.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.

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美文翻译

58: Enduring Style

历久弥新，经典不朽

意大利服装集团Slowear拒绝快时

尚，热爱经久耐用的创新面料，Josh

Sims报道

说起快时尚——也就是以非常实惠、

近乎低廉的价格紧跟潮流，不断翻

新——Slowear的态度乍听起来十分

保守，而“保守”可是一家服装公司难

以承受的。然而，如其名所示，这家意

大利服装集团并不急于通过大幅改动

风格款式来带动销售。

“‘Slowear’这个词就像是我们经

营理念的总和，即使它是一个挺奇怪

的词儿，”集团联合创始人Rober to

Compagno说道。其父曾在威尼斯创

立家族服装企业Incotex，该公司自

1951年开始营业。“我们反对快时尚，

就像慢食运动反对快餐一样。短短十

年前，这个点子还很奇异，行业里的许

多人都认为我们是怪胎。现在有更多

人能理解它了。”

为了迎合小众消费者对产品可

持续性及“从摇篮到坟墓”的设计要

求，Slowear致力于将此标准带到服

装行业中来。Compagno认为，正如

人们越来越关注食品的原产地，同样

的兴趣也适用于服装业；尤其是在当

今，时尚消费者对生产、利润和品质的

理解提升了，而这很大程度上是得益

于互联网的帮助。

为此，Slowear有着不同寻常的公司结

构。最初，Incotex公司靠生产军用制

服起家，之后转而专营各类长裤，“到

后来在长裤方面已经没有什么我们没

做过的了，于是我们开始将同样的理念

应用到其他产品身上，”Compagno说

道。经过一系列收购运作，该集团麾下

集结了一些不甚知名但却堪称同侪标

杆的专业品牌，其中包括专擅衬衫的

Glanshirt、专擅外套的Montedoro

和专擅针织衫的Zanone；集团还围绕

Incotex档案馆中的各类织物，推出了

一个全新的服装系列Archivio。

这些Compagno所说的“慢一些

的品牌”仍然存在，既经营批发业务，

也在越来越多的Officina Slowear商店中设有零售专柜。最近，巴黎的第二

家分店和意大利帕多瓦（Padua）首家

门店均已开业，还有众多新店即将揭

幕，包括一家纽约专店。Slowear正在

提速。

接下来要说的就是Slowear的设

计方法了。Slowear并不打造季节系

列，而是定期发布新品，但仅限于公

司认为最合适的时候：简而言之，就

是其技术部门——该部门吸纳公司

营业额的5%，专门用于研发——创

造出新的东西的时候。Slowea r在

这一方面取得的辉煌成绩颇令人赞

叹。在其众多专利面料之中，有一种

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叫Ch i nol i no的面料，它是棉布和

亚麻布的结合体，既保留了前者的

柔韧，又不乏后者的透气性能。还有

Incochino，这是一种三向结构的原

纱染色华达呢，其研发共费时五年。

还有Flexwool、Ice Cotton和Shade

Cashmere——不用细看就知道，这

些都是高科技产品。

该公司还拥有一项首创的服装

染色手法——用染料给成衣染色，而

非用已经染好的面料制作成衣。公司

的生产过程同样一丝不苟：例如，每

一件Glanshirt衬衫都要经过三次洗

涤，通过特殊处理，在不磨损面料的

同时，让其更为舒适贴身。

“关于老牌意大利公司仍然坚持

着他们几十年、几百年前做法的故事

有许许多多，”Compagno说。“但我们

并不是那样的。我们选用市场上技术

最先进的机器，致力于推动创新，打造

出最好的产品。我们的思路是，如果

你把搭配和比例弄对了，很多衣服仍

然可以穿出来，而且再过50年都不会

显得过时。我认为我们采取的是一种

有远见的做法。目前来说，做出糟糕的

质量或标出天价都不是正确的选择。

顾客想通过更加私人的方式来寻找适

合他们的产品。经济不景气意味着他

们对品牌的关注更少了。他们想要价

位合理、品质优异的创新产品。”

这个道理同样可以放到购物体验

上来。仿佛是在强调该公司“物必有所

值”的价值理念，用于店铺内饰的预算

并不充裕：既没有大理石地板，也没

有昂贵的玻璃制品。正如Compagno

所说，对于一个注重实质而非华美外

在、推崇持久耐用而非时尚快餐的公

司来说，那些东西都是不适合的。“近

些年来，时尚界从未注意产品质量，

因为注意了也没有意义，”他说。“不等

你意识到，时尚就已经过时了。但那

种态度正在改变。任何品牌也都必须

改变。”

slowear.com

68: Paper Trail

纸张的探索之路

无需牺牲时间赋予的魅力，意大利的

传统文具商顺势而变，满足现代人的

需求，Verity Hogan报道

无论是萨伏伊公爵们（Dukes of

Savoy）还是大旅行（Grand Tour）

时代的年轻贵族，在生活中追求精品

的人无不崇尚意大利的手工纸品。如

今，意大利的文具商依旧享誉全球。

绝大多数手工纸选用最上乘的传统原

料，并采用十八世纪初传承至今几无

改变的工艺。意大利文具品种繁多，

质量上乘，既有皮面日记本、定制绸

纹纸，还有名片和有盖储存盒等高品

质小配件。

欧洲已知最古老的纸质文档（

与羊皮纸文档相对）现存于巴勒莫

（Palermo）的国家档案馆中。纸上用

阿拉伯语和希腊语记载了文字，其历

史可以追溯到1109年。但直到十三世

纪，意大利的文具商们才将古老的制

纸工艺转化为重要的商品，意大利也

进而成为了世界闻名的造纸大国。

几乎没有哪些公司的历史传统比

Fabriano还要辉煌。Fabriano的历

史可以追溯到1264年，公司的名字源

于所在地——马尔凯（Marche）的

Fabriano小镇。该地之所以能一举

成为造纸中心，很大一部分原因是因

为靠近阿拉伯贸易的必经之地安科纳

（Ancona）港口。十五世纪，这里生

产的画纸得到米开朗琪罗的青睐，令

他赞不绝口。小镇造纸坊当年的先进

工艺如今在造纸业已屡见不鲜，例如

水印和表层粘合剂的使用。

Fabriano从这些手工坊演变而

来，顺势而变、适应潮流，满足顾客

不断变化的需求。产品种类不仅仅

拘泥于美术用品，还包括日常的办公

用品、绘图册以及精美绝伦的书写工

具。如今，Fabriano还致力于使用可

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再生能源，在生产中广泛使用自生的

水电力。

相比之下，Il Papiro的产品则坚

守工艺传统，旗下18家专卖店无不弥

漫着传统的气息，彰显出公司在佛罗

伦萨的第一家专卖店的优雅气质。店

内出售独特精美的涡纹笔记本、皮制

日记本以及令人心醉的大理石纹手工

纸。公司老板Francesco Giannini和

Gianni Parenti出生于佛罗伦萨，与

城市的工匠群体保持密切联系，确保

产品不失历史魅力，历久而弥新。

Pineider是意大利最古老的造

纸商之一。自Francesco Pineider

于1774年开设第一家专卖店以

来，Pineider一直服务于高品位

的顾客群体。“我们是一家独一无

二、享誉全球的文具商，纸浆质量

上乘，采用手工雕刻大师的精致印

刷工艺，”Pineider的发言人Linda

Zamboni说道。“我们生产的纸品都

是无氯的，使用全天然墨水，采用传统

的意大利手工工艺，触感极佳，书写流

畅。”公司传承了创始之初的传统生产

工艺，并发展壮大240余年。不过，生

产中也融入了现代工艺。Zamboni 表

示，“当然，现代工艺和技术改变了一

些生产流程，但是一些系列的饰边上

色还是由手工完成，和几百年前一模

一样。我们的纸盒同样也是在工坊里

手工制作的。”

从定制的名片到饰有优雅浮雕

文字和纹章的书写纸，Pineider纷

繁的产品吸引了一大批坚定的簇拥

者。曾经的顾客包括如雷贯耳的大

文豪拜伦勋爵（Lord Byron）和伊

丽莎白·芭蕾特·布朗宁（Elizabeth

Barrett Browning），以及玛琳·黛德

丽（Marlene Dietrich）和伊丽莎白·

泰勒（Elizabeth Taylor）等好莱坞影

星。Zamboni表示：“我们的顾客品味

十分高雅。我们忠心感谢那些欣赏意

大利制造文具独一无二品质的顾客。”

如今，公司经营的文具种类丰

富，既包括为特殊场合精心打造的产

品——饰有手工雕刻手写字母的纸

张、饰以印刷彩边的时尚方形卡片和

信封——也有卡布里岛系列（Capri）

，即天然颜料手工饰边的纸品和与

之相配、衬有纸巾的信封。公司从

未停止推陈出新的脚步。Zamboni

女士为我们披露此前不为人知的消

息：Pineider即将推出一项全新的雕

刻技术。她表示，“这项工艺能够运用

手写文字手工雕刻模型打造浮雕印

刷效果。”

现代社会电子产品在沟通交流中

的作用愈发举足轻重，而振奋人心的

是，意大利国内对高品质文具的需求

非但没有每况愈下，反而蒸蒸日上。那

些曾经为文学精英和贵族冒险家提供

优等文具的公司在保持优秀传统的同

时，也为现代顾客推出了众多新的产

品。正如Zamboni所说的那样，“手工

雕刻可以追溯到数千年前，但毫无疑

问，如今我们已经融入了新的技术。

即便如此，雕刻大师的手艺还是和以

前一样精湛。”

fabriano.com, ilpapirofrenze.it,

pineider.com

globalblue.com

138


肩负使命的男人

设计大师乔治·阿玛尼（Giorgio

Armani）庆祝同名时装品牌成立40

周年之际，亦在展望未来。Hannah

Lewis报道

今年早些时候，从好莱坞巨星到政要

名流等500名贵宾的环绕下，乔治·阿

玛尼用一场本年度最时髦的派对开启

了其标志性时装品牌的40周年庆祝盛

典。当晚，为配合2015年米兰世界博

览会的举行，Armani揭幕了一个全

新的展厅Armani/Silos，打造了一场

盛大的时装表演，并借此回顾了一部

分他最伟大的作品，最后在其夜总会

Armani Privé里以鸡尾酒会为这个夜

晚画上了圆满句号。

这场纪念性的时装秀引领宾客

们回溯了过去的四十年，呈现了从

Giorgio Armani Privé服装系列诞

生之初以来的品牌精华。表演共囊括

了160套装扮，无愧为一场令人叹为观

止的回顾展，演绎了魅力、多样性以及

清晰醒目的色彩，适时地向人们证实

了Armani其实并非像普遍认为的那

样单单钟情于灰褐色。从柔和的肉色

分层纱裙到性感的鲜红色露肩礼服，

这场表演淋漓尽致地展示出这位设计

大师无穷无尽的创意和打造经典优美

服装的能力。

更令人惊叹的是，这场时装秀

仅仅呈现了Armani麾下系列的一部

分。Armani旗下共有八大品牌，所

涉产品从牛仔裤到家居用品，从童装

到女士夜礼服，可谓一应俱全。品牌

单在意大利即有49处零售点，其中包

括了Armani Casa家居旗舰店、一间

Armani咖啡馆和上文提到的Club

Privé夜总会。

因此，可能您花上数日探索

Armani在过去40年当中的辉煌成

就，却连表面的一层都难以了解周详。

正如Armani本人所说，“我什么都做

过了。”了不起的是，他奉行着亲历亲

为的态度；从建筑结构的草图到面料

上的细枝末节，所有的一切Armani

都要亲自批准。

许多时尚评论家，以及Armani本

人，都将这位设计大师的高产归功于

他人生的“慢热”。现年81岁的Armani

直到40岁时才开始创立他的同名品

牌。即便如此，他已成功地将毕生之

力融入到了过去40年当中。Armani

品牌初创于1975年，第二年这位大师

的系列服装已经掀起了轩然大波，尤

其以完美满足现代女性需求的成衣作

品为甚。

Armani奠定了一个时代的时尚，

在其他人随着潮流变化而半道消亡之

际，Armani始终是从西装到晚礼服

无所不能的顶尖品牌。这位颇富远见

卓识的大师始终在思考着下一个季

度，他有着一种神秘的能力，总能打

造出既前卫新潮又不失经典风范的服

装。Armani的时尚是可留传一世、永

不过时的格调。

全新的Armani/Silos展厅与回

顾时装秀和盛大派对同时揭幕。该展

厅不仅陈列了600套标志性造型，还

PH

OT

O: ©

GO

RU

NW

AY.C

OM

139

日本語翻訳

展示了来自Armani档案馆的一系列

创作草图、工程图和相关材料。这可

不是普通的博物馆。Armani不囿于

当下，而是着眼于未来；每过六个月，

展厅就会进行一次变更。展厅所在建

筑原为一座粮仓，现经过巧妙翻修，

成功地在保留诸多原有特色的同时，

对某些部分做出了彻底变动——这亦

是 Armani致力于传统与现代并举的

一大例证。

在城市另一端，位于Monte-

napoleone大街的Armani旗舰店近

期刚刚翻修完毕。该店位于历史悠久

的建筑Palazzo Taverna之内，同样

融新旧于一体；店内布局还原了最初

的平面布置图，但每个房间都经过了

个性定制，大量采用大理石和缟玛瑙

等奢华材料。该店不仅云集了全城规

模最大的Armani产品系列，还为顾

客提供特别定制服务。米兰是旗舰

店所在地的不二之选；虽然Armani

生于皮亚琴察，他的品牌却是在米兰

创立的，自那之后他也一直在这里工

作、定居。

尽管已经有了令人赞叹的丰硕成

果，Armani的目光仍然坚定地望向

未来。目前，他正专注于一系列配饰，

包括多款手提包，旨在打造常规时尚

潮流之外的经典。Armani从不像许

多时装品牌一样依赖于配饰，但这位

大师一直心系顾客大众，深知手提包

大有可掘之处。

为配合周年庆典，品牌发布了Le

Sac 11：这是一款经典的极简主义实

用手提包，有三种大小和一系列不同

材质与配色可选。“11”指代的不仅是

Armani的出生日期，也是公司那具有

历史意义的总部地址。这款手提包虽

是对Armani传统的致意，却也和所有

Armani产品一样，是为今天和未来而

设计。这件永不过时的经典设计，以当

下为构思之本，为历久长存而打造，巧

妙地概括了Armani的品牌哲学。

armani.com



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当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城

市的海关柜台请他们在您的退税表格

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手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表

为单位收取现金退税手续费。

58: Enduring Style

長持ちするスタイル

イタリアの服飾グループ、スローウェア

はファーストファッションを拒み、革新

的で長持ちする生地を使っている。ジ

ョッシュ・シムズがレポートする。

globalblue.com

140

他の商品にも適用し始めた」のだと、

コンパーニョはいう。そして精力的な

企業買収の結果、インコテックスはシ

ャツメーカーのグランシャツ、アウター

ウェアのモンテドーロ、ニットウェアの

ザノーネなど知名度は低いが優秀な専

門企業を傘下におさめ、インコテック

スの生地を基本とした新たな服飾品ラ

イン「アルキヴィオ」を発売する。

これらのブランド（コンパーニョ

いわく「スローなブランド」）は今も健

在で、卸売の他、拡大を続けるオッフ

ィチーナ・スローウェアの店舗網を通

じても販売されている。オッフィチー

ナ・スローウェアは最近ではパリ2号店

とパドヴァ店がオープンしており、今後

もニューヨーク店をはじめ多くの店舗

の開設が予定されている。「スロー」ウ

ェアでも、ビジネスは加速中だ。

同グループはデザインに対する考

え方も独特だ。季節ごとのコレクショ

ン制作はしない。新製品は自社の判

断で「適宜」発売する。つまり、年商の

5%を研究開発に注ぎ込む技術部門

が何か新しいものを創り出した時に出

す方式だ。ちなみに同社の開発実績

はなかなか大したものだ。例えば同社

独自開発の生地だが、「チノリーノ」は

コットンとリネンの混紡で、リネンの通

気性とコットンの柔らかさを兼ね備え

る。「インコチノ」は糸染めのギャバジ

ンで、5年をかけて3ウェイ構造を開発

した。その他にも「フレックスウール」

、「アイスコットン」、「カシミアシェー

ド」などがあるが、いずれも見かけによ

らずハイテクな素材だ。

同社はまた、衣服染色技術のパ

イオニアでもある。染めた生地で衣服

を作るのでなく、完成した衣服に色を

のせる手法だ。同社は生産工程にもこ

だわる。例えばグランシャツのシャツ

はいずれも、生地を傷めずにくったりと

した肌馴染みを実現するプロセスを用

いて三度洗いしている。

ファーストファッションは、最新

のスタイルを使い捨てしてもいいほど

の安価で次々に回転させていくという

ビジネスモデルだ。そうした立場から

すれば、「スローウェア」は恐ろしく古

風に聞こえる。服飾メーカーにはそん

なに悠長に構えている余裕はない。だ

が、このイタリアの服飾グループは、そ

の名が示す通り、販売を伸ばすために

スタイルをコロコロ変えるつもりは全く

ない。

「スローウェアは妙な言葉です

が、私たちの理念を一言で的確に表

現しています」というのは、同グループ

の共同創業者ロベルト・コンパーニョ

だ。彼の父親が設立した同族経営の

服飾企業インコテックスは1951年の

創業で、ベニスに本拠を置く。「スロー

フード運動がファーストフードに反対

しているように、当グループではファ

ーストファッションに反対しています。

この考え方はほんの10年前まではご

く珍しく、業界人の多くに変人と思わ

れましたが、今では広く理解されてい

ます。」

他の製品について持続可能性と

一生もののデザインを求めるニッチ市

場に応えて、スローウェアでは服飾に

も同じ基準を当てはめようとしている。

コンパーニョは食品について高まって

いる起源への関心が服飾にも向けら

れるようになると考えている。特に、主

としてインターネットのおかげでファッ

ション消費者が製造やマージン、生産

品質について理解を深めるにつれ、衣

類の起源にも関心を寄せるようになる

と信じているのだ。

そこで同社では、ちょっと変わっ

た体制をとっている。インコテックスは

そもそも軍用ユニフォームの生産から

始まり、その後ズボンを専門に作るよ

うになったのだが、「そのうち、ズボン

に関してはこれ以上できることはない

という段階に達したので、同じ理念を

141

「何十年、何百年も昔の手法を

今も使っているイタリアの老舗企業の

話をよく聞きますが、うちは違います」

とコンパーニョはいう。「革新を推し進

めて最高の製品を作るため、市場で最

も技術的に進んだ機械を使っている

のです。フィット感とプロポーションを

きちんと造れば、50年経っても着れ、

見た目も古さを感じさせない服にな

る。これが私たちの考え方です。未来

志向のアプローチだと私は思っていま

す。低質な製品や馬鹿高い値の製品

を作るのは、どうも今の時代にふさわ

しいとは思えません。消費者はもっと

パーソナルな姿勢で自分に合った製品

を見つけたいと思っています。景気後

退を経てブランドはそれほど気にしな

くなり、革新的で良質な製品を手頃な

値で買いたいと願っているのです。」

それは店舗でのショッピング体

験にも言えることだ。スローウェアで

は、「バリュー・フォー・マネー」の企

業理念を強調するかのように、店舗イ

ンテリアの予算を低く抑え、大理石や

高価なガラスは一切使っていない。コ

ンパーニョがいうように、そうした高額

の建築資材は、見かけの立派さより実

質、つかの間の流行より長く愛用され

る服を提唱するブランドにはふさわし

くないだろう。「近年の流行ファッショ

ンは、文字通りといっていいほど品質

を顧みなくなりました。良いものを作

っても意味がない。流行が始まったと

思ったら、もう終わっているんですから

ね。ですが、そうした考え方が今は変

わりつつあって、ブランドも変わってい

かざるを得ないでしょう。」

slowear.com

68: Paper Trail

紙の伝統を訪ねて

イタリアの伝統的文房具メーカーは、

長年愛されてきた魅力を失うことなく

進化を遂げ、現代の需要に応えてい

る。ヴェリティ・ホーガンが訪ねた。

歴代サヴォイ公からグランドツア

ーでイタリアを訪れた若き貴族まで、

上質を知る目の肥えた人々は昔から、

イタリアの手作り紙を珍重してきた。

この国の文房具は今でも高い評判を

誇っている。その多くは伝統的な材料

を用いて、18世紀初頭からほとんど変

わらない技法で作られる。革表紙の

日記帳からパーソナライズされた型押

し入り便箋、蓋つきの収納ボックスま

で幅広く揃った商品は、どれも最高の

品質だ。ヨーロッパ最古といわれる紙

製（羊皮紙でなく）の文書は、パレル

モの公文書館に収蔵されている。アラ

ビア語とギリシャ語で書かれたその文

書は、1109年に書かれたものだ。しか

globalblue.com

142

し、イタリアの文房具メーカーが古代

の製紙手法を取り入れて紙を主力商

品へと変貌させ、紙生産で世に知られ

るようになったのは13世紀になってか

らというのが通説である。

由緒正しいといえば、1264年創

業のファブリアーノの右に出るメーカ

ーはおそらくないだろう。同社の社名

は、本拠とするマルケ州にある小さな

町ファブリアーノに由来する。この町

が製紙業の中心地として栄えたのは、

アラビアとの貿易ルートに特に強いつ

ながりを持つ港町アンコーナが近いこ

とが大きな理由だ。15世紀には、ここ

で作られた高級アート紙をミケランジ

ェロが使い、大そう気に入ったといわ

れている。この町の工房では、透かし

やゼラチンを使った紙表面の糊付け

など、現代製紙業界では当たり前にな

った技法が編み出された。

ファブリアーノ社はそうした職人

の工房から発展した会社だが、流行

に反応し消費者の需要の変化に合わ

せてきた順応力のおかげで、今も健

在だ。品揃えは高級アート紙だけでな

く、今や日常的なオフィス用品や画用

紙帳、美しく陳列された便箋セットま

で幅広い。現在、同社では再生可能

エネルギーにも取り組んでおり、自家

水力発電を生産に広く利用している。

一方、イル・パピロの品揃えは伝

統的な職人技に根差し、同社の18店

舗はいずれも、フィレンツェに出した第

一号店の優雅な雰囲気を反映した古

風なデザインになっている。商品はペ

イズリープリントのノートや革綴じの

日記帳、美しい手作りのマーブル紙な

ど。同社オーナーのフランチェスコ・ジ

ャンニーニとジャンニ・パレンティはフ

ィレンツェ生まれで、この都市の職人

コミュニティとは密接なつながりがあ

る。そのおかげで、同社の製品は今で

も昔からの魅力を保ち、一時的な流行

に左右されない時代を超えた品質を

誇っているのだ。

ピネイダーはイタリア最古の紙メ

ーカーの一つで、フランチェスコ・ピネ

イダーが1774年に一号店をオープンし

て以来、その歴史にふさわしい目の肥

えた得意客に商品を提供してきた。「

当社の文房具は独特で、比類ない紙

質と当社の熟練手彫り職人ならでは

の印刷技術で世界的に知られていま

す」と説明するのは、同社広報担当者

のリンダ・ザンボーニだ。「当社の紙は

全て無塩素漂白紙で、インクも天然で

す。また、伝統的なイタリアの職人技

が活きているため、手触りがよく、書き

心地も満点です。」

ピネイダーは240年以上も生き残

143

り、繁栄してきた。それは、最初に財

を築いた時と同じように、伝統的な生

産手法を守り通してきたからだ。と言

っても、近代的な技法を取り入れてい

ないわけではない。ザンボーニいわく、

「もちろん、新しい技法や技術によっ

て変わった工程もありますが、当社の

コレクションの一部にある罫線の色付

けは昔ながらの手作業ですし、紙箱も

同様で自社で手作りしています。」

誂えの名刺からエレガントな型押

し文字や紋章の入った便箋まで、ピネ

イダーは幅広い品揃えで昔から熱烈な

ファンが多い。過去の愛好者にはバイ

ロン卿、エリザベス・バレット・ブラウ

ニングといった文学界の大物や、マレ

ーネ・ディートリッヒ、エリザベス・テイ

ラーといったハリウッドスターもいる。

「今も世界一流の粋人にご愛顧いた

だいています。当社のイタリア製文房

具ならではの品質をわかって下さる皆

様に、本当に感謝しています。」　

現在、同社では特別な用途のた

めに美しく手作りした品（筆記体の文

字を手彫りし型押しした紙、色罫を印

刷したモダンな四角形のカードや封

筒）から、天然顔料で罫線を手書きし

た便箋と揃いの手作り薄葉紙の裏地

が付いた封筒が特徴のカプリコレク

ションまで、幅広い商品を提供してい

る。ピネイダーは常に進化している。ザ

ンボーニが、これまで秘密だった新情

報を教えてくれた。同社が新しい型押

し技法をまもなく開始するというのだ。

「カリグラフィーを手彫りした型で、エ

ンボス印刷したのと同じ効果がある」

という。

通信が電子媒体で行われること

が増えている中で、イタリアの高品質

文房具の需要が減るどころか増えてい

るのは嬉しい限りだ。かつて文豪や貴

族冒険家の愛用品を作ったこれらの

会社は、それぞれルーツを大事にしつ

つ開発に励み、現代人にとっても魅力

的な商品を生み出してきた。ザンボー

ニによれば、「手彫り型押しの歴史は

何世紀も前に遡りますが、もちろん今

では新しい技術が関わってきていま

す。それでも、熟練手彫り職人の精密

さは昔と変わりません。」

fabriano.com、ilpapirofirenze.it、

pineider.com


使命を負う男

自らの名を冠したファッションハウス

が創立40周年を迎えてもなお、ジョル

ジオ・アルマーニの目は未来に向いて

いる。ハンナ・ルイスがレポートする。

この春、ジョルジオ・アルマーニ

は、自身のアイコニックなファッション

ハウスの創立40周年祝賀第一弾とし

て、ハリウッドスターから政界の大物

まで500人のゲストを招き、とびきりス

タイリッシュなパーティを開いた。ま

た、2015年ミラノ国際博覧会の開始と

タイミングを合わせて新しい展示スペ

ース「アルマーニ・シーロス」をお披露

目し、自身の代表作を選りすぐった豪

華なファッションショーを開催。さら

に、自分のナイトクラブ「アルマーニ・

プリヴェ」でのカクテルパーティでその

夜を締めくくった。

祝賀ファッションショーでは40年

の歴史を遡り、ジョルジオ・アルマー

ニ「プリヴェ」クチュールラインの誕生

当初からの見どころ作品を、ゲストに

披露した。合計160のルックスを一挙

に見せた感動の回顧ショーは魅力とバ

ラエティに富み、特に色彩づかいは、

アルマーニはやたらと「グレージュ」を

使うという評判のいわれのなさをタイ

ムリーに印象づけた。ソフトなヌードカ

ラーのチュールのレイヤードスカート

から、大胆な緋色のストラップレスイ

ブニングドレスまで、このデザイナーの

globalblue.com

144

終わりなきクリエイティビティと時代を

超越した美しい服を作る能力に敬意

を表するショーだった。

ただし、ここで披露されたのはア

ルマーニのポートフォリオのほんの一

部に過ぎないのだから凄い。アルマー

ニの傘下には８つのブランドがあり、

ジーンズからインテリア用品、ベビー

服から舞踏会用ドレスまで、ありとあ

らゆるものを作っている。同ブランド

は、イタリア国内だけでも旗艦店アル

マーニ・カサ、アルマーニ・カフェ、前

述のクラブ・プリヴェを含め49の小売

スペースを擁する。

そんなアルマーニだから、過去40

年の業績を何日もかけて振り返ったと

しても、表面をなぞることにもならな

い。本人が言うように、アルマーニは「

あらゆることをやってきた」。彼のアプ

ローチは驚くほど現場主義で、建築の

スケッチから細かな生地の選択まで

全ての承認を自ら行っている。

多くのファッション評論家が指摘

し、自身も認めるように、多作はデザ

イナーとしての出発が遅かったからだ

という。現在81歳になるアルマーニが

自身の名を冠したレーベルを創設した

のは、40歳になってからだ。そんな遅

いスタートにもかかわらず、それからの

40年で少なくとも人の一生分の仕事

を成し遂げてきた。アルマーニレーベ

ルの創設は1975年だが、早くもその翌

年にはコレクションが話題となり、特

に既製服は現代女性のニーズにぴっ

たり合っていると評判を呼んだ。

こうしてこの時代のルックスを代

表するレーベルとなったアルマーニ

は、その後トレンドが変化して他のレ

ーベルが落伍していく中で、スーツか

らイブニングウェアまで何でもござれ

の頼れるブランドであり続ける。未来

志向のアルマーニは常に次のシーズン

を考え、トレンディでありつつ時代を

超越した服を創作するという不思議

な能力を備えている。アルマーニのフ

ァッションは、一生もののファッショ

ンだ。

回顧ショーやパーティと同時に開

場した「アルマーニ・シーロス」では、

アルマーニのこれまでの作品から代

表作600点とスケッチ、図面、素材を

集めた展示会を開催している。ただ、

この新しい展示スペースは博物館で

はない。アルマーニは立ち止まる人で

はなく、いつも未来を考えている。ここ

の展示も6か月ごとに様変わりする。ア

ルマーニ・シーロスは、穀倉だった建

物を元々の特徴を多々残して面影を

大事にしつつ、その他は大々的に変え

る形で改装したもの。伝統と現代性を

PH

OT

O: G

ION

ATA

XE

RR

A

145

兼ね備えることにこだわるアルマーニ

らしい。

同じ市内でもシーロスとは反対

側に位置する旗艦店「アルマーニ・モ

ンテナポレオーネ」も、最近改装され

た。歴史香るパラッツォ・タヴェルナ

に面するこの店舗も、新旧が入り混じ

っている。レイアウトを元の間取り図

に戻しつつ、各部屋は大理石やオニキ

スといった高級素材を一貫して使いカ

スタマイズしている。同店はミラノ最大

のアルマーニ商品コレクションを揃え

る他、専門のメイド・トゥ・メジャーサ

ービスも行っている。旗艦店を構える

場所としてミラノを選んだのは、ごく自

然ななりゆきだった。アルマーニはピ

アチェンツァの生まれだが、レーベル

の立ち上げはミラノで、以来彼はこの

都市で暮らし、働いてきたのだから。

既に大いなるレガシーを遺してい

るアルマーニだが、その目は今もしっ

かりと未来に据えられている。現在注

力しているのはハンドバッグなど一連

のアクセサリーで、通常のファッション

スケジュールにとらわれないものをデ

ザインしている。アルマーニは、多くの

ファッションハウスのようにアクセサリ

ーに頼ることは決してしない。彼のバ

ッグが注目を集めるのは、自分のオー

ディエンスを常に意識しているからに

他ならない。

「ルサックオンズ（Le Sac 11

）」は40周年とタイミングを合わせて

発売された。ミニマリスティックで古

典的なデザインの実用的なトップハ

ンドルバッグで、3サイズがあり、様

々な素材と色から選べるようになっ

ている。「11」はアルマーニの誕生日

であるだけでなく、彼の会社が本社

を置く歴史的建物の番地でもある。

このように伝統の重みを認識しては

いるが、このバッグを含めてアルマ

ーニの製品は全て、現在と未来を念

頭にデザインされている。今のため

に考案し将来まで長持ちするように

創られるタイムレスなデザイン。要は

それがアルマーニの理念なのだ。

armani.com



海外でのお買い物が免税に

グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッ

ピング制度をご利用いただきますと、

世界各地の有名ショッピング街にある

27万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物

がお得になります。

年間2600万人が楽しまれている

グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピン

グを、貴方もぜひご利用ください。手

続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加

盟店を探します。星が見当たらなけれ

ば、店員に「グローバル・ブルー？」と

お尋ねください。あとは、次のステップ

を踏むだけです。

1. お買い物

お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバ

ル・ブルーの免税書類（タックスフリ

ー・フォーム）を受け取ってください。

2.還付請求

ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関で

免税書類にスタンプを押してもらって

から、グローバル・ブルーの還付事務

所で払い戻しを受けます。

お問い合わせ：

[email protected]

+421 232 111 111

€154.94以上のお買い物をすれば、購

入価格の最高15.5％の払い戻しが受

けられます。最終的な払い戻し額は、

付加価値税（VAT）合計から事務手

数料を差し引いた金額となりますの

で、その旨ご了承ください。一部の空

港で現金での即時払い戻しをご希望

の場合は、取り扱い手数料が免税書

類ごとに課されます。

SOUVENIR


146 | PRODUC TS

is sure to add a dash of artistic

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in Florence in 1927, Salvatore

Ferragamo was originally known

for its luxury footwear, but now

creates menswear, womenswear

and accessories to the same

impeccable standards. th

Salvatore Ferragamo

Moroccan silk scarf, €295,

Salvatore Ferragamo,

Via de’ Tornabuoni 4R-14R,

50123 Florence,

+39 055 292123,

ferragamo.com


THE ART OF DRESSING

This printed scarf from Salvatore

Ferragamo wouldn’t look out of

place in an art gallery, thanks to

its richly detailed design featuring

exotic animals and birds, ornate

tiled pavilions and colourful

blooms. Made entirely in Italy

from 100% silk, the Moroccan

comes in four equally covetable

colourways – black, red, plum

or china blue – any one of which

Ponte Vecchio, 33/R

Tel. +39 055 283301

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Ponte Vecchio, 54/R

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Ponte Vecchio, 29/R

Tel. +39 055 2741044

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Ponte Vecchio, 52/R

Tel. +39 055 2396028

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Forte dei Marmi

Via G. Carducci, 8

Tel. +39 0584 876196

[email protected]

Forte dei Marmi

Via G. Carducci, 6d

+39 0584 85044

[email protected]

Tel. 800 30 89 80 louisvuitton.com

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