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BE BOLD:

explore Milan’s exciting

new fashion direction

MILAN | МИЛАН | 米兰 | ミラノ

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Jewelry Collection.

Discover more.

Emma Cheevers

EDITOR’S LETTER

8

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Welcome to Milan

Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you

discover the very best of this world-renowned style centre. Milan has

much to ofer, as our guide on page 98 reveals. Readers who appreciate

cutting-edge interiors will enjoy our feature about designer Patricia

Urquiola (page 76), and in this issue we also explore some of the city’s

best eateries.

SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader

that helps you save up to 15.5% when shopping in Italy. We publish

guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international

insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top

global brands you’ll fnd in Milan. For the very latest information, visit

globalblue.com.

Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card – the

simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand,

and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit

globalblue.com/join.

Austria

Austrian Alps

Barcelona

Belgium

Berlin

Cologne

Copenhagen

捷克共和国

Düsseldorf

Frankfurt

French Riviera

دليل ألانيا

德国指南

Германия

Gothenburg

Hamburg

Hanover

Helsinki Area

Holland

Istanbul

Italy

Japan

Lake Saimaa

Lebanon

London

Madrid

Milan

Munich

Nuremburg

Oslo

Paris

巴黎

Portugal

Prague

Riga

Rome

Seoul

Singapore

Stockholm

Stuttgart

Switzerland

Vienna

Vilnius

CONTRIBUTORS

12

globalblue.com

Beth Druce

Beth Druce is a fashion and

luxury writer, who also works

as a consultant for a variety

of luxury fashion companies.

For this issue of SHOP she

has contributed our Italy’s

New Woman feature about the

fashion trends for the season.

Josh Sims

Freelance journalist and editor

Josh Sims interviewed leading

designer Patricia Urquiola for

this edition of SHOP Milan.

Josh also writes for publications

including Wallpaper and his

latest published book is Icons

of Women’s Style.

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Cajsa Holgersson

London-based Swedish

illustrator Cajsa Holgersson

created this season’s cover

illustration for SHOP Milan.

Her illustration is based on

our feature about the bright

and colourful trends seen

on Milan’s spring/summer

2016 catwalks (turn to page

60). Cajsa’s bold and graphic

style and her wonderful use

of shapes and colour made

her the ideal choice for this

cover, which shows Italy’s

new woman coming to

the fore on a fashion show

catwalk. Wired, Fuji Film and

Women’s Health are among

Cajsa’s previous clients.

Explore our archive of cover

illustrations at

globalblue.com/covers.

Ximena Daneri

SHOP’s fashion editor

Ximena Daneri studied

fashion and textile design in

her home city of Buenos Aires

before working as an image

consultant for TV shows and

styling magazine fashion

shoots in Argentina.

16

SHOP FLOOR

E DI TOR I A L

Editor-in-chief

Emma Cheevers

PU BL I SH I NG

Publisher

James Morris

Head of digital

Eamonn Leacy

Digital campaign manager

Iwona Wlodarczyk

Digital data analyst

Dian Liu

Digital marketing assistant

Anastasia Budieva

Product manager

Devesh Sankadecha

Developer

Mohammed Hakki

Digital production manager

Andrew Lugton

Production assistants

Olivia Chou, Sammy Ha

Chief executive officer

Jacques Stern

SHOP is published by Global Blue

Group headquarters

Global Blue SA,Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland

Corporate registration number

5565726923globalblue.cominfo@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2016 Global Blue

Chinese editor

Yuan Fang

Associate Chinese editor

Junjie Dou

Chinese contributing editor

Qingya He

Chinese editorial assistants

Yangzi Liang, Manqing Li

Chinese translators

Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi

Russian editor

Anastasia Nemchenok

Russian editorial assistant

Karina Starobina

Russian translators

Teena Garnik,

Gary Ramazanov

Japanese editor

Kyoko Nishimoto

Print

Dane Consultancy

Commercial editor

Ruairidh Pritchard

Commercial artworking assistant

Samantha Junak

AVP business development manager

Patrice Janet

Art director

Fabio Gervasoni

Junior designer

Kiranjeet Kaur

Content corporate production manager

Steve Brown

Corporate production coordinator

Inga Abramian

GL OBA L BLU E I TA LY

Country manager

Stefano Rizzi

Marketing sales managers

Antonella Bertossi, Flavio Gatti

Marketing sales executive

Eleonora Busico

Marketing coordinator

Alberta Reinach

Sales key account manager

Stefano Cardinale

Sales account manager

Marco Cavalli

Global account managers

Simone Borgheresi,

Sabrina Schiavone,

Salvatore Smith

Key account managers

Monica Affaticati,

Benedetta Andreini,

Caterina De Bernardo,

Sabrina Galessi, Manuela Intili,

Consuelo Murari, Marco Savino

Account managers

Nicoletta Aromando,

Alessandro Bonincontro,

Rodolfo Borella, Ludovica Bragato,

Nadia Busletta, Laura Durante,

Gabriele Giuntini,

Diana Martin, Sonia Mura,

Francesca Ramiccia,

Mattia Sardaro,

Giordano Senzacqua

Global Blue,

Via Carlo Noé 33,

Gallarate 21013, Varese

Deputy editor

Sally McIlhone

Cover illustrator

Cajsa Holgersson

Contributors

Beth Druce, Josh Sims

Production editor

Caterina Mazzolai

Assistant production editor

Katie Muxworthy

Features editor

Hannah Lewis

City guide and lifestyle editor

Isabella Redmond Styles

Fashion editor

Ximena Daneri

Fashion coordinator

Fani Mari

Fashion intern

Danielle De Wolfe

News editor

Rebecca Davies

Assistant news editor

Theresa Harold

Chief sub-editor

Hester Lacey

Copy editors

Katie Davis, Sue Flook,

Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew,

Harriet O’Brien

Picture editor

Kirsty Andrews

Assistant picture editors

Grace Bird, Katie Byrne

Senior picture assistant

Mónica R Goya

Picture assistant

Charlotte Rogers

Artwork editor

Simon Thompson

Artworking assistants

Aaron Carline, Dionne Hélène,

Milkha Lala

Artworking intern

Onur Unaltay

Online managing editor

Kirsty Welsh

Assistant online editor

Marina Nelson

Online writer

Emily Scrivener

18

Above: Gucci spring/summer 2016

56 In Store …

… with Maria Cristina Buccellati in

Buccellati’s jewellery boutique on Via

Montenapoleone

Features

60 Cover story: Italy’s New Woman

On the catwalks in Milan, the trademark

glamour of Italian labels has been replaced

with bold, individual style, explains Beth

Druce

68 Best Foot Forward

The modern man wants more from his

footwear, and Italy’s leading brands are

stepping up, says Hannah Lewis

76 Design Queen

Talented designer Patricia Urquiola is

making waves in the world of Italian

interior design. She talks inspiration and

innovation with Josh Sims

Products

24 Check Out

SHOP selects a standout piece from Milan

this season

26 My Favourites

Milan-based designer Paula Cademartori

and Simonetta Ravizza, who runs a

specialist fashion label under her own

name, reveal their top tips for spring/

summer 2016

30 Products

Key looks for the season, from fashion and

footwear to jewellery and accessories

40 Street Style

Our pick of Milan’s best dressed this

season

News

42 Shop Window

One store not to be missed in Milan

44 News

Seasonal updates on shops, services and

new products

CONTENTS

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KARLIE KLOSS

LONG ISLAND, NEW YORK

SEPTEMBER 2015

MARELLA.COM

MILANO

CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE

CORSO XXII MARZO 4

CONTENTS

20

Translations

132 Русский Перевод142 美文翻译148 日本語翻訳

Souvenir

154 The essential item to bring home

Experience

84 Café Society

From indulgent breakfast menus to extensive sandwich ranges and world-class coffee, Milan’s caffès have much to offer, as Kirsty Andrews discovers

92 Stay In Style

SHOP’s guide to the world’s most exclusive hotels

Guide

98 Guide

Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Milan

Essentials

130 How To Shop Tax Free

The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

p. 84

Above: 10 Corso Como café’s beautiful courtyard

ENGLISH | Р УС СКИЙ | 中文

VISIT US ONLINE...

The latest in luxury shopping

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MILANO - Via Montenapoleone, 6 - Ph. +39 02 76280508

VIA MONTENAPOLEONE, 16

24 | PRODUCTS

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TIME TO SHINE

Jaeger-LeCoultre has introduced its new

Rendez-vous Moon watch. In this eye-catching

timepiece, the moon and constellations of stars

shine against a dark-blue night sky, with the

moon symbolising time as well as womanhood.

The mother of pearl moon disc is available in

36mm or 39mm diameter and the timepiece

features a blue satin strap and engraved motifs.

Sparkling brilliant-cut diamonds connect all

the diferent elements of this watch to create a

mesmerising accessory. fm

Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-vous Moon

watch, €53,500, Jaeger-LeCoultre,

Via Montenapoleone 1, 20121 Milan,

+39 02 7628 1376,

jaeger-lecoultre.com

FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 110

CHECK OUT

26 | PRODUCTS

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1. ‘I think that the pleated

skirt, as seen at Gucci, will be

the indispensable silhouette

this season’

Gucci pleated dress, €1,800,

Gucci, Via Montenapoleone 5-7,

20121 Milan, +39 02 771271,

gucci.com

2. ‘For shoes, I admire the

work of designers such us

Miuccia Prada, Azzedine

Alaïa and Givenchy’

Givenchy shoes, price on request,

La Rinascente, Piazza del Duomo,

20121 Milan, +39 02 88521,

givenchy.com

3. ‘When I’m travelling, I

always take a black eyeliner

pencil, shiny lip gloss and

mascara’

Lancôme Hypnôse mascara, €29.95,

Douglas, Corso Buenos Aires 42,

20124 Milan, +39 02 2941 2470,

lancome.it

Brazilian-Italian designer Paula Cademartori moved

to Milan in 2005. She studied industrial design as

well as fashion, and has pursued her passion for

handbags, small leather goods and shoes through

her own label. Paula has a keen eye for detail and

her handbags are recognisable by their sophisticated

buckles which have been inspired by the Greek pi

symbol – π. Ximena Daneri asks Paula about her

favourite fashion and beauty items for this season

paulacademartori.com

MY FAVOURITES: Paula Cademartori

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SHOP | 27

6. ‘One of my favourite

designers, Raf Simons, has

shown his last collection as

Christian Dior’s creative

director’

Dior, Via Montenapoleone 12,

20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 7809,

dior.com

4. ‘This season I also like the

new fragrance from Alaïa’

Alaïa eau de parfum, 100ml,

€115.69, 10 Corso Como,

Corso Como 10, 20154 Milan,

+39 02 2900 2674, alaia.fr

5. ‘I’m particularly fond of

my new shapes: the Eugenie

bucket bag and the Babeth

shoulder bag. They are made

in Italy and available in

diferent materials’

Paula Cademartori Babeth bag,

€1,260, desboutique.it

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1. ‘These are my favourite

items from my latest

collection’

Simonetta Ravizza leather

trenchcoat, €2,100;

silk maxi skirt, €880;

leather sash, €450;

Simonetta Ravizza,

Via Montenapoleone 1, 20121 Milan,

+39 02 7601 2921, simonettaravizza.it

2. ‘From Moleskine’s

selection of stationery, this

mini-planner is always in my

purse’

Moleskine yellow notebook, €12.10,

Moleskine, Via Dante 15, 20123 Milan,

+39 02 8909 2219, moleskine.com

3. ‘This is the most classic

and glamorous bag’

Hermès Birkin bag, price on

request, Hermès,

Via Montenapoleone 12, 20121 Milan,

+39 02 7600 3495, hermes.com

4. ‘Gianvito Rossi is my

favourite shoe designer’

Gianvito Rossi Crissy shoes, from

€595, Gianvito Rossi,

Via Santo Spirito 7, 20121 Milan,

+39 02 7628 0988, gianvitorossi.com

MY FAVOURITES: Simonetta Ravizza

Simonetta Ravizza founded her specialist fashion label in 1990. With a fagship store on Via Montenapoleone, the Simonetta Ravizza brand has built a reputation for its sophisticated and contemporary items which are made in Italy from leather, fur, and other luxury materials. Here, Simonetta shares her style tips for the spring and summer with Fani Mari

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SHOP | 29

5

5. ‘Keiko Mecheri’s Oliban

contains cedar, tobacco and

amber. It’s very intense’ Keiko Mecheri Oliban eau de

parfum, 75ml, €140, Profumo,

Via Brera 6, 20121 Milan,

+39 02 7202 3334,

profumomilano.com

6. ‘My iPad is indispensable’

Apple iPad Air 2, from €499 each,

MediaStore, Via Mercato 22,

20121 Milan, +39 02 2931 0038,

apple.com

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5. Vertu New Signature phone,

€9,400, Vertu, Via Montenapoleone 29,

20121 Milan, +39 02 777 3171,

vertu.com

6. Agnona Tango sandals, €650,

Agnona, Via Sant’Andrea 11,

20121 Milan, +39 02 798649,

agnona.com

3. Rosantica head piece, €240,

La Rinascente, Piazza del Duomo,

20121 Milan, +39 02 88521,

rosantica.com

4. Diana Vreeland Outrageously

Vibrant fragrance, 100ml, €215,

Olfattorio, Via Brera 5, 20121 Milan,

+39 02 3653 2901, dianavreeland.com

1. Calvin Klein Jeans denim jacket,

€159, Calvin Klein Jeans,

Corso Buenos Aires 12, 20124 Milan,

+39 02 2953 2164, calvinklein.com

2. Fendi 3Jours bag, price on

request, Fendi, Via Montenapoleone 3,

20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 1617,

fendi.com

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WILD AT HEART

Pair distressed denim with distinctive prints for an efortlessly cool look

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32 | PRODUCTS

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MONOCHROME MIX

Black and white always guarantee classic style

5. Damiani ring, €2,690,

Damiani, Via Montenapoleone 10,

20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 8088,

damiani.com

6. Cos cropped trousers, €79,

Cos, Corso Venezia 5,

20121 Milan,

+39 02 7628 0649,

cosstores.com

3. Swarovski earrings, €119,

Swarovski,

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II 15,

20121 Milan, +39 02 7209 4386,

swarovski.com

4. Jimmy Choo Letti shoes, €695,

Jimmy Choo, Via Sant’Andrea 1A,

20121 Milan, +39 02 4548 1770,

jimmychoo.com

1. Issey Miyake coat, from €785,

Boule de Neige, Corso Como 8,

20154 Milan, +39 02 6291 0777,

isseymiyake.com

2. Hermès lacquered-wood

bracelets, from €215,

Hermès, Via Montenapoleone 12,

20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 3495,

hermes.com

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SHOP | 33

10. Bulgari watch, €19,000,

Bulgari, Via Montenapoleone 2,

20121 Milan, +39 02 777001,

bulgari.com

9. Le Labo Thé Noir 29 fragrance,

100ml, €185, Profumo, Via Brera 6,

20121 Milan, +39 02 7202 3334,

lelabofragrance.com

7. Elena Ghisellini Felina clutch,

€545, Anna Ravazzoli, Corso Genova

16, 20123 Milan, +39 02 832 3088,

elenaghisellini.com

8. Tod’s belt, €390,

Tod’s, Via della Spiga 22,

20121 Milan,

+39 02 7600 2423,

tods.com

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1. Pinko leather vest, €540, Pinko,

Via Montenapoleone 26, 20121 Milan,

+39 02 7601 4184,

pinko.it

2. Dodo necklaces,

price on request, Dodo,

Corso Venezia 8, 20121 Milan,

+39 02 7631 7581,

dodo.it

DAY TO NIGHT

The clever use of accessories

and high heels means your

jeans will see you through to

the evening

3. Alexander McQueen the Box bag,

€1,495, Alexander McQueen,

Via Pietro Verri 8, 20121 Milan,

+39 02 7600 3374,

alexandermcqueen.com

4. Hugo Boss shoes, €795, Hugo Boss,

Corso Giacomo Matteotti 11,

20121 Milan, +39 02 7639 4667,

hugoboss.com

5. 7 For All Mankind jeans, €260,

7 For All Mankind, Via Manzoni 43,

20121 Milan, +39 02 4950 4361,

7forallmankind.com

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JUMP TO IT

Make a statement with this season’s must-have

item, worn with colourful accessories

1. Marco de Vincenzo Marabou

heels, €910, Giò Moretti,

Via della Spiga 4, 20121 Milan,

+39 02 7600 3186,

marcodevincenzo.com

2. Valentino Garavani handbag,

€1,800, Valentino,

Via Montenapoleone 20, 20121 Milan,

+39 02 7600 6182, valentino.com

3. Cartier watch, price on request,

Cartier, Via Montenapoleone 16,

20121 Milan, +39 02 303 0421,

cartier.com

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4. Chanel Rouge Coco Shine

lipstick, €32,

La Rinascente, Piazza del Duomo,

20121 Milan, +39 02 88521,

chanel.com

5. M Missoni jumpsuit, €750,

M Missoni, Corso Venezia 2,

20121 Milan, +39 02 3651 0974,

m-missoni.com

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5. Santoni backpack, €820,

Santoni, Via Montenapoleone 6,

20121 Milan,

+39 02 7628 0508,

santonishoes.com

3. Bang & Olufsen BeoSound

Moment music system, €2,195,

Bang & Olufsen, Corso Garibaldi 2,

20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 4193,

bang-olufsen.com

4. Tissot Chemin des Tourelles

watch, €820, Tissot,

Piazza del Duomo 31, 20121 Milan,

+39 3 4257 02963, tissotwatches.com

1. Etro shirt, €480, Etro,

Via Montenapoleone 5,

20121 Milan,

+39 02 7600 5049,

etro.it

2. Alberto Guardiani shoes, €425,

Alberto Guardiani, Corso Venezia 6,

20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 1697,

albertoguardiani.com

NEW NEUTRALS

Add diferent textures when wearing muted colours this season

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STREET

STYLE

Attendees at Milan Fashion Week combined monochrome embroidery with sparkling jewellery, metallic details and playful, eye-catching handbags from Gucci and Dolce & Gabbana

globalblue.com

SHOP | 41

42 | NEWS

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

SHOP WINDOW

JEWELLERY BOX

The renewed jewellery area in La Rinascente’s

flagship department store in Milan showcases

a glittering range of luxury brands. The

500-square-metre space, which opened in

2015, is home to brands such as Bulgari,

Chopard, Longines and Dodo, and invites

clients to discover fine timepieces as well as

high-end jewellery collections. La Rinascente,

which has an illustrious history stretching

back 150 years, has branches all over Italy, in

cities such as Rome, Florence and Palermo,

and is one of Italy’s foremost shopping

destinations. Overseas clients are invited to

apply for the International Visitors’ Card

which offers exclusive in-store advantages and

promotions all year around. th

La Rinascente,

Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan,

+39 02 88521,

rinascente.it

FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 103

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44 | N E WS

STYLE MASTERCLASS

Ermanno Scervino’s clothes epitomise glamorous, jet-set style. The designer takes inspiration from the time he’s spent in Milan, Paris, New York and London to create collections that are a masterclass in Italian style. The Giò Moretti boutique on elegant Via della Spiga is the ideal setting in which to discover the spring/summer 2016 collection, which experiments with the seductive effects of lace. Expect red carpet-worthy gowns in chiffon and organza alongside pretty daytime-appropriate jacquard separates. irsGiò Moretti, Via della Spiga 4, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 3186, ermannoscervino.it

FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 112

STEPPING OUT

Every Car Shoe loafer is handmade by artisans, using the skills and craftsmanship they have demonstrated since the company was launched in Italy in 1963. Founder Gianni Mostile, inspired by his passion for racing cars, invented and patented the familiar Car Shoe moccasins with soles set with tiny rubber nubs. Car Shoe has been part-owned by the Prada Group since 2001 and is known for its bright footwear in simple yet elegant shapes which are available in a wide range of materials and leathers. This season’s key designs include calfskin loafers, python wedges, Menorcan shoes made in raffia and mink sandals. rdCar Shoe, Via della Spiga 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 4027, carshoe.com

FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 112

IN BRIEF

Fragrance

brand

Locherber has

opened its first

standalone

boutique. In the

retro-style space

on Corso

Magenta, which

features

graphic tiled

floors, Perspex

shelving and

bright pink

ceilings,

customers are

encouraged to

browse the

brand’s vast

choice of

fragrances,

which are

presented in

glass ampoules

SHOP | 45

globalblue.com

GO WITH THE FLOW

Luxury leather brand Belstaff has updated its classic 1950s-inspired four-pocket jacket (€1,895). Looking to the sea, creative director Delphine Ninous has embraced lighter technical fabrics; these are more fluid than the fabric used in previous seasons and the innovation is exemplified in this jacket with a cracked-leather effect. It was recently announced that Liv Tyler has been appointed ambassador and creative contributor for the brand, following in the footsteps of Kate Moss. Other pioneering women associated with Belstaff include aviator Amy Johnson and racing driver Doreen Evans. rdBelstaff, Via della Spiga 19, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3653 3106, belstaff.com

FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 112

SLICK RICK

Rick Owens’s first concept store, designed by Anna Tumaini, is located on Via Monte di Pietà. The architect, who has collaborated with Owens to design all his stores, has given the boutique a minimalist design featuring rough concrete pillars, wall-to-wall mirrors, marble furniture and white monoliths of polyurethane foam. The 600-square-metre space, all on one floor, is in the heart of Milan, between the fashion district and the famous Brera arts district. The store carries all the Rick Owens collections of clothing and accessories along with beautiful, minimalist furniture designs. rdRick Owens, Via Monte di Pietà 13, 20121 Milan, +39 02 4538 6030, rickowens.eu

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TIMELESS STAPLES

Menswear label Corneliani produces well-made staples which are relevant this season, especially as the prep-school look is on-trend. There is a lightness to the Italian brand’s latest collection which uses cottons, linens, silks and leathers. Corneliani successfully combines cutting-edge techniques, modern designs and timeless hand-finished tailoring. These slim-fit stretch chinos, white micro chevron cotton shirt, playful salmon checked jacket and buttery leather holdall sum up the brand’s look. rdCorneliani, Via Montenapoleone 26, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 7955, corneliani.com

FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 110

DESIGN FOR LIFE

This year sees the 55th edition of Salone del Mobile, the influential international interior design fair, which runs from 12 to 17 April. The biennial EuroCucina and the International Bathroom Exhibition will be back this year. Don’t miss the screening of Matteo Garrone’s short film ‘Before Design: Classic’, or the ‘Rooms. New Domestic Landscapes’ exhibition at the Triennale di Milano. Download the ‘Salone del Mobile.Milano 2016’ app for iOS and Android to help you plan your visit. thSalone del Mobile,Fiera Milano, Strada Statale del Sempione 28, 20017 Rho, +39 02 725941, salonemilano.it

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SEA HERE

Each season, without fail, Vivienne Westwood creates a must-have collection of jewellery with an unconventional twist. The Medea collection of jewellery was inspired by the Mediterranean coastline and bohemian high society in 1970s Morocco. Nautically inspired woven chains are hand-hammered to lend an organic look, while these articulated fish earrings (€130) are gold-plated with crystal eyes and will provide the perfect finishing touch to your outfit. rdVivienne Westwood, Corso Venezia 25, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7608 0222, viviennewestwood.com

FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 105

BRIGHT FUTURE

Seeking inspiration for her spring/summer 2016 collection, designer Narguess Hatami turned her attention to the grand palaces of the Persian Empire. Her womenswear label Miahatami, whose first collection appeared in autumn/winter 2015/16, particularly references paintings, frescoes and carpets. This season’s kaleidoscope of colours reflects the blues, canary yellows, flame reds and sunny oranges which adorn the tiles that cover the walls of these sumptuous buildings. Hatami graduated in culture and techniques of costume and fashion from the Università degli Studi in Bologna, and is a hot topic in fashion circles right now – she’s certainly a designer we’ll be watching. rdTessabit, Via Milano 107, 22100 Como, +39 03 126 2043, miahatami.com

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MILANOC.so V. Emanuele

(angolo Galleria S. Carlo)

Galleria V. Emanuele, 69C.so Buenos Aires, 39

C.so Vercelli, 35

C.so Genova, 20

C.so XXII Marzo, 5

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

WATCH THIS SPACE

The new multibrand store from Pisa Orologeria pays homage to fine watchmaking and stocks all the top watch brands, from Audemars Piguet to Zenith. The shop caters to a sophisticated clientele and carries several limited-edition pieces made exclusively for Pisa. This family enterprise was founded in 1940 and is now run by the founder’s daughters. It is acknowledged as one of the best watch stores in Europe for its longstanding tradition of professionalism and variety of products. Horophiles can discover more about the complex mechanisms of watches by observing technicians at work in the state-of-the-art laboratory. In addition to selling high-end timepieces, Pisa Orologeria has recently launched a line of jewellery. thPisa Orologeria,Via Pietro Verri 7, 20121 Milan, +39 02 762081, pisaorologeria.com

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50 | N E WS

DENIM AND DINING

Denim brand Replay ambitiously combines a flagship store, a bar and a restaurant in its premises on Piazza Gae Aulenti. Browse the latest Replay collections in the tailored denim shop, which specialises in perfectly fitting jeans, then enjoy a cocktail in the Octavius bar, which is designed to evoke the atmosphere of a classic liner cruising the Italian Riviera. The Stage restaurant offers a taste of modern Milanese cuisine, from traditional regional dishes to freshly prepared sushi and sashimi. irsReplay, Octavius and The Stage, Piazza Gae Aulenti 4, 20124 Milan, +39 02 6208 6374, replaythestage.com

FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 120

STROKE OF GENIUS

For spring/summer 2016, Baldinini fuses elegance with informality for an easy take on refined dressing. Take this slip-on shoe (€350), for example; the delicate brushstrokes of pastel colours contrast sharply with the plain white sole to create a comfortable yet striking footwear option. Elsewhere in the collection, laser-cut leather and embossed metallics lend the range an eye-catching, summery vibe. Since this family-run Italian brand was founded in 1910, it has built a reputation for quality that it maintains to this day. To showcase its craft heritage, Baldinini has drawn on a variety of techniques, such as weaving, hand-painting and inlaying. These details can be appreciated in every product, from sandals and knee-high boots to handbags. thBaldinini,Via Montenapoleone 15, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 2002, baldinini.it

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52 | NEWS

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FRAGRANCE REDEFINED

Floriental is the newest

scent in the Comme des

Garçons fragrance repertoire.

Redefining the rules of

perfumery, the Japanese brand

which was founded by Rei

Kawakubo has created a

completely new fragrance

concept. This contemporary

eau de parfum, which is

ironically based around the

cistus, a flower with no smell,

has no definite top, middle or

base note, so each ingredient

emerges and recedes in an

opulent confusion.

CLASSICAL ELEGANCE

The Marina Rinaldi brand,

established in 1980, was

named after founding director

Achille Maramotti’s great

grandmother, who in 1850

owned a women’s tailoring

workshop. This was

revolutionary for a woman at

the time and the company is

still making waves. Marina

Rinaldi’s latest collection

showcases all the finest aspects

of the label, from flattering fits

to high-quality fabrics. This

blue linen coat (€790) with

wide lapels and waist-cinching

belt is lightweight enough to

wear during the summer,

while the plain colour keeps it

unfussy and smart. th

Marina Rinaldi,

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II/

Piazza del Liberty 2,

20122 Milan, +39 02 782065,

marinarinaldi.com

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IT’S A WRAP

Quintessentially British

brand Burberry has installed

an area in its Milan flagship

store dedicated to its classic

scarves. For spring and

summer, lightweight cashmere

scarves will be available in a

selection of over 30

colourways, including popular

heritage shades of camel,

stone, charcoal, navy and red.

The Burberry Scarf Bar

provides a monogramming

service that allows customers

to personalise their scarves

with up to three initials. These

Scottish-made scarves (€725)

are modern classics that will

last well beyond the season

– we particularly like the

leopard and heart-print

versions. rd

Burberry,

Via Montenapoleone 12,

20121 Milan,

+39 02 3601 0852,

burberry.com

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Key ingredients include

sandalwood, labdanum resin,

vetiver, pink pepper and plum

liqueur. Floriental eau de

parfum (from €80) is available

in 50ml and 100ml sizes and is

presented in a shiny red

version of Comme des

Garçons’ signature pebble-

shaped bottle. rd

10 Corso Como,

Corso Como 10,

20124 Milan,

+39 02 2900 2674,

comme-des-garcons.com

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54 | NEWS

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HEEL APPEAL

Prada always presents

memorable shoes at its shows;

this season’s featured strappy,

pointed, pompom-embellished

examples. These kitten-heel

T-bar sandals in silver leather

and light brown suede (€990)

are the brand’s vision for the

modern woman. rd

Prada,

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II

63-65, 20121 Milan,

+39 02 876979, prada.com

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JOIN THE CLUB

September 2015 saw the

opening of Ralph Lauren’s

first private luxury club, the

Palazzo Ralph Lauren.

Located in the historic Casa

Campanini, the exclusive

venue allows members to

discover the world of Ralph

Lauren at their leisure. In

addition to benefits such as

priority restaurant reservations

and event invitations,

members also gain access to

exclusive items and

personalisation services. The

club also showcases the

brand’s menswear,

womenswear, homeware,

watches and fine jewellery. th

Palazzo Ralph Lauren,

Via San Barnaba 27,

20122 Milan,

+39 02 550571,

ralphlauren.com

IN BRIEF

Barberino’s

barber shop is

well worth a

visit. Located at

Corso Magenta

10, in an

18th-century

building, the

salon’s interior

has been

designed to

create a vintage

feel. Services

include shaves,

facials,

manicures and

haircuts

FIFTIES CHARM

Roberto Cavalli customers can rely on

finding an element of fun in his label’s clothing

and accessories. This season the Italian

designer’s sunglasses look to the glamour and

tradition of vintage fashion, which has been

reinterpreted into a contemporary product.

Naturally, you can depend on quality materials,

as well as details such as the gold metal hooks

which clasp these sunglasses’ cat-eye frames,

and 1950s-inspired arms (€250). rd

Roberto Cavalli,

Via Montenapoleone 6, 20121 Milan,

+39 02 763 0771, robertocavalli.com

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Milano Via della Spiga, 42 tel. 02 76015435

56 | NEWS

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‘My grandfather Mario founded Buccellati after an apprenticeship at Milanese jewellers Bottega. He became famous and since then the company has been developed by the Buccellati family. My brother Andrea is the president and creative director and my brother Gino works in the silver factory in Bologna; our cousin Luca manages the Milan boutique and looks after VIP clients all around the world while I manage the communications department.

‘We’ve always been located on Via Montenapoleone, although we’ve moved up and down the street! We’ve been at Via Montenapoleone 23 since 2003. This street is the home of luxury brands in Milan and is a reference point for visitors who are looking for items which are made in Italy.

‘We also have stores and corners around the world which are designed by architects and a Buccellati concept is applied to each store wherever it’s located. All Buccellati stores have a particular atmosphere, created by the nuances of, for example, the wood panels and the furniture; the lighting is very important.

‘Recent launches include our Opera and Icona collections in Paris and London and we also have one-of-a-kind pieces throughout the world, which make every store special.

‘The workmanship and engravings encapsulate our brand. All Buccellati jewels are handcrafted, hand-engraved and hand-set, as you would have found in an Italian Renaissance goldsmith’s bottega (workshop).

‘It’s always memorable when clients and friends gather at our Via Montenapoleone boutique for events: it’s like hosting them in our own home.’

Buccellati,Via Montenapoleone 23, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 2154, buccellati.com

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IN STORE: BUCCELLATI

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Luxury jewellery house Buccellati was founded in Milan in 1919. Still run as a family business, it creates beautiful jewellery inspired by the arts, theatre and paintings, with a focus on classic Italian style interpreted in contemporary ways. Maria Cristina Buccellati, granddaughter of the company’s founder, talks to Ximena Daneri about Buccellati’s heritage and boutique on Via Montenapoleone

SHOP | 57

MILANO | Piazza San Babila 3 | Tel. +39 02 760.003.66

10 STORES IN THE CITY

MADE IN

Changes in fashion are to be expected. Sometimes it is subtle and hard to pinpoint, such as the slow exit of the

wedge heel or the quiet passing of skinny jeans, and at other times the change is fast and relentless – and this is exactly what we’ve seen at Gucci over the past two seasons.

With the arrival of Alessandro Michele, the creative director with a bold new vision for the brand, the smooth sensuality and high-octane glamour of the Gucci woman has been replaced with a kooky, colourful and cartoonish portrait of a lady. Today, Gucci stands for printed

silks, coloured lace, crocheted skirts and capes, pussy-bows, multicoloured lurex and transparent chiffon in neon colours. Michele is also using an endearing technique that results in trompe l’oeil buttons, belts and bows being added to garments, which are adorned with beads and sequins in a colourful and playful way. ‘It’s really about that kind of contradiction between the past and the future,’ Michele told the New York Times, which goes some way to explain how an essentially discordant collection of looks has succeeded in conveying one of the strongest messages of the season.

ITALY’S

NEW

WOMANOn the catwalks in Milan, the trademark

glamour of Italian labels has been replaced with bold, individual style,

explains Beth Druce

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Left: Prada spring/summer 2016 132 142148

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Intrinsic to the current collection’s appeal

is its ‘geek chic’ styling. The formula favours

glittery oversized glasses, crocheted gloves,

corsages and short-strap handbags that hang

from the wrist. There are, however, snatches

of old-school Gucci, as seen in the strategic

use of the house’s signature red and green

stripes to define a waist or a hemline, and the

interlocking gold GG motif, although this is a

little less shiny and a bit more distressed than in

previous years.

For Sarah Mower, chief critic at Vogue

Runway and author of the book Gucci by

Gucci, the shift in focus has relevance beyond

the fashion house’s design credentials. ‘The

speed at which Gucci has been overhauled

and refreshed since Alessandro Michele has

been appointed has been astonishing,’ Mower

explains. ‘I think he’s a leader in the new,

warm, human and eclectic feeling which

fashion is craving.’

Michele has reinvented Gucci in line

with the feeling of the times, and the nod to

eccentricity that has been freshly employed

by the label is a common thread on Milan’s

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64 | FEATURES

catwalks. Designer Miuccia Prada has long

been known for her quirky designs, and where

others are making their first forays into the

arena of out-there style, Prada embraces the

aesthetic like a seasoned professional. At Prada

this season, boxy 1960s-style suit jackets

are decorated with silver stripes, tweeds and

tartans, and layered with pastel-hued gauze.

There are geometric knits in solid blocks of

dense colour, hems that hover between the

knee and the calf and an impressive selection

of accessories including leather bowling bags

and oversized bauble earrings, while the most

remarkable items are net-like veils draped

around the neck.

Marni is a brand where the meaning is as

much in the accessories as in the clothing, and

quirky details are all part of the label’s DNA.

This season, a palette of bold primaries with

accents of dusky pink and jade green provide

the wallpaper for a collection that fuses loose

shapes and geometric lines with contrasting

print and colour. Giant leather ‘sack’ handbags,

dangly Perspex earrings and flat, square-

toed thick-strap sandals once again confirm

Consuelo Castiglioni, the label’s designer, as an

architect of left-field fashion design.

Above (all): Marni spring/summer 2016

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MILANO

Via Manzoni 19

T. +39 02 72022800

SHOWROOM - MILANO

Corso Vittorio Emanuele 22

Tel. +39 02 76341350

66 | FEATURES

A new concept of woman has emerged, bolder and more playful than before

With high-profile changes at Gucci and

bold touches from labels such as Marni, Italian

fashion has been brought into sharp focus and

there’s a particular air of excitement around its

new experimental leanings. What is apparent is

that the shift in design focus being witnessed in

Milan has a growing and infectious appeal and,

rather than being the exception, dressing with

a quirky eccentricity will increasingly become

the norm.

The polished, sexy ideal of the Italian

woman may not have been put to bed for

good, but she is no longer the only contender

on the catwalks. A new concept of woman has

emerged, which is bolder and more playful than

before, and leading labels including Gucci,

Prada and Marni have succesfully captured and

embraced her spirit

Above (both): Gucci spring/summer 2016

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The modern man wants more from his footwear, and Italy’s leading brands are stepping up, says Hannah Lewis

SHOP | 69

BEST FOOT

FORWARD

On the spring/summer menswear catwalks experimental shoes were very much in evidence. Dolce & Gabbana’s

casual espadrilles came with the same bold, medieval-style prints that adorned trousers and sweatshirts. Gucci decorated feet with foral prints, bold colours and tactile velvets, and studded ankles with spikes. Bottega Veneta started an unexpected trend for socks with sandals, and Emporio Armani’s dress shoes were printed with paisley on top of chunky cut-out soles.

Wardrobes are becoming less formal, and neckties and the like are no longer everyday necessities. This means that there is scope for shoes to be more central than ever when men are deciding what to wear. While ready-to-wear brands are successfully harnessing the power of the shoe – footwear may be the first item that a customer buys from a label they haven’t explored before – it’s the specialist firms that people return to time and again.

Men are notoriously reticent when it comes to experimentation in fashion, and when they

Left: Dolce & Gabbana Tremiti espadrilles, spring/summer 2016135 143149

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Above (from left): Bottega Veneta spring/summer 2016; Alberto Guardiani shoes are handcrafted

For decades the label ‘made in Italy’ has been a byword for excellent quality in the world of shoes

do embrace something a bit different, they turn

to a tried and tested name: where better to buy

your statement shoes than from a label that’s

been furnishing you with luxurious staple items

for years? Alberto Guardiani, for example, is

one of Italy’s foremost footwear specialists and

it is increasingly catering to the daring male

dresser, with options such as suede camouflage

and zebra-print pony skin car shoes, and

cobalt-blue woven flatforms.

These styles may not be for everyone, but

the need for newness in the world of men’s

shoes goes further than a fleeting catwalk trend

– every man should own at least one pair of

standout shoes. For those who prefer their style

to err towards the classic, bespoke and made-

to-order options are the way forward.

At Fratelli Rossetti, excellence in

craftsmanship has always been paramount. For

over 60 years the family company has been at

the forefront of the shoemaking industry, so it’s

no surprise that the team has quickly responded

to the desire for individuality in men’s footwear.

Take the tailor-made service, for example.

Available exclusively at the brand’s flagship

store on Via Montenapoleone, clients can now

have a pair of Fratelli Rossetti’s luxurious shoes

made just for them. One of the brand’s master

craftsmen is assigned to each client throughout

the whole process, from the initial appointment

to the delivery of the final product, resulting in

a truly bespoke shoe that will fit perfectly and

will also feature the owner’s name, handwritten

on the internal heel cushion.

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Above (clockwise from top): Alberto Guardiani men’s shoes; Gucci, all spring/summer 2016; Fratelli Rossetti leather hides for the brand’s bespoke range

This bespoke range comprises around 20

models and is available in Fratelli Rossetti’s

most luxurious range of materials – from rare

calfskin to iguana and crocodile hides – as well

as in numerous colour options. The brand has

also recently launched a made-to-order service,

through which customers can create their

own take on one of the brand’s classic styles,

including its Brera loafer, which was named

after one of Milan’s most artistic districts. The

service has expanded to include the option of

Fratelli Rossetti’s Toledo leather, which is hand-

painted using an artisanal technique, making

each pair of shoes unique as well as luxurious.

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Above: Fratelli Rossetti owners Luca, Diego and Dario Rossetti

Fratelli Rossetti is not the only brand that

has recognised a shift in men’s shoe desires.

At Salvatore Ferragamo, the Driver shoe

has always been a top seller, and so when the

label launched its made-to-order service it

was clear that this style should be offered to

clients. Available at selected flagship stores

worldwide, the service allows men to create

their own version of the Driver shoe. More

than 100 variations are offered for the upper

body, sole and hardware, and the list of colours

and materials is very impressive. The service

is rounded off with an extra personal touch:

a lettering process to let you truly make your

mark on the shoes.

Heritage brands these may be, but Fratelli

Rossetti and Salvatore Ferragamo show that

they have their sights set firmly on the future;

it’s this ability to work modern approaches and

technologies into classic methods that makes

them so successful. The best men’s shoes are

contemporary and unique, but crafted by

experts using knowledge that’s been passed

down for generations. Crucially, these new

styles and services recognise a growing trend

in men’s footwear, as fashion-conscious clients

take more risks and look to express their

individual style through what they wear on their

feet. And what better way to do this than with a

shoe that you’ve had a hand in designing?

No longer satisfied with the small range

of options which was once available to them,

stylish men increasingly want more from their

footwear. Shoes should never be afterthoughts,

as these are the only accessories we can’t leave

the house without. For decades the label ‘made

in Italy’ has been a byword for excellent quality

in the world of shoes, so if you’re going to do

something, do it properly: make it your own,

and make it Italian

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Above (from top): Salvatore Ferragamo made-to-order men’s Driver shoes; Fratelli Rossetti shoe components

DESIGNTalented designer Patricia Urquiola is making waves in the world of

QUEENinterior design. She talks inspiration and innovation with Josh Sims

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Previous page: Mandarin Oriental Barcelona restaurant designed by Patricia Urquiola

‘It’s about experiences and bringing them together in a product’ – Patricia Urquiola

Explore any interior design or furniture

showroom in Italy and a roster of

industry-leading names will soon present

themselves: Boffi, B&B Italia, Cassina, Kartell

and Alessi, to mention just a few. Many of them

are still independent or family businesses with

a reputation for pushing the boundaries of form

as well as manufacturing methods. These are

household names in some of the world’s most

chic homes.

One woman, Patricia Urquiola, is

increasingly involved with developing ideas

for such interiors brands. Born in Spain, she

trained in Italy under and alongside some of

the country’s leading designers, including

Vico Magistretti, Achille Castiglioni and Piero

Lissoni. Urquiola lives and works in Milan;

she set up her design studio 15 years ago and

is arguably the most important designer of her

generation.

When we meet, she runs her hand over the

functional but warm surfaces of the kitchen

she’s designed for Boffi and points out the

design’s modularity, which makes it suitable

for smaller spaces. ‘Look at this!’ she says,

suddenly grabbing hold of the chopping board-

style wooden counter-top, which slides out to

become a breakfast table.

This is the first Boffi kitchen to be

designed by a woman. ‘We’re a very masculine

company with a very masculine product but

we knew we wanted a more feminine element

in the approach to materials and colours, and

to put the kitchen together without the usual

traditional cabinets,’ explains Roberto Gavazzi,

the CEO of Boffi, of its decision to hire

Urquiola. ‘She uses curves where we, well, we

might tend to be more square.’

Curvaceous, tactile, playful: these are

all adjectives which have been applied to

Urquiola’s work for a wide range of clients,

from Hermès and Salvatore Ferragamo to

Driade, Moroso, BMW, Ruinart, Panasonic,

Mandarin Oriental and Flos. These could be

considered feminine qualities in what Urquiola

describes as the ‘industrial world’ of design.

‘There are a lot of men, a lot of managers

making decisions and feeling that perhaps

they need a man to front a project to give it

credibility,’ Urquiola suggests, going on to say

that women’s talents should be given space to

blossom. ‘I think society understands that, as

it’s becoming more and more feminine in some

ways, and more democratic.’

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The success of Urquiola’s designs is

perhaps a result of her readiness, where

possible, to live with her prototypes while

refining them (her home is above her office).

She speaks of the need for each design to

appeal to a sense of familiarity, an idea from

her friend, the chef Ferran Adrià. Her 2006

Smock office chair, for example, incorporates

the design of a smock worn by her first baby.

Her Night & Day sofa for Molteni & C, another

Italian company, acknowledges how we use

sofas, not as showcase pieces but as island hubs

on which to rest, work and play. Hers is a basic

but clever structure, onto which cushions can

be configured as well as armrests, baskets,

storage units and occasional tables.

‘Functionality is important of course, but

it isn’t enough. For me it’s about experiences

and bringing them together in a product. It’s

about taking a critical attitude and connecting

with the relevant culture and about your sense

of how society is evolving. You don’t need to

know everything there is to know about chairs

to design a chair.’

Above (from top): premier suite living room for Mandarin

Oriental Barcelona; Pavo Real armchair for Driade

Previous page (from left): Salinas kitchen for Boffi;

Patricia Urquiola

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New York, D ecember 2015

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Above (from top): Flos Tatou S1 pendant lamp and Chasen lamp for Flos; Night & Day sofa for Molteni & C

Urquiola is equally interested in working

with companies to find new ways of making,

whether that be a craft technique or an

industrial process. Another sofa, for instance

– Bend, designed for B&B Italia – uses a clever

patchwork form for the covering and saw the

development of a pioneering multi-perforated

foam inner which gives the same comfort

as standard foam but is lighter and uses less

material. Husk, a chair also for B&B Italia, has

a cushioning system that can be fully removed

for washing, while each piece of the design is

removable and replaceable, should a leg get

damaged, for example.

‘I’m just curious,’ she says of her

predilection to keep pushing at things until

they’re just right. ‘When I’m working on one

thing, that’s all I’m doing, that’s all I’m thinking

about. And I love to break a prejudice, including

my own. Like artists, to move forward you have

to get out of your comfort zone.’

‘To move forward you have to get out of your comfort zone’

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Orologeria Luigi Verga Orologeria Luigi VergaLuigi Verga Orologi & C.

globalblue.com

84 | EXPER IENCE

Milan’s cafès are, quite rightly, ranked among the best in the world, and serve much more to their customers than excellent cofee. This drink, which arrived in Italy in the 17th century, has become part of the country’s culture.

The frst cofee of the day is likely to be a speedy espresso which is taken along with a pastry. However, cofee shops are a cornerstone of Milanese society and throughout the day you will fnd local people lingering over a steaming brew, taking the time to relax, to catch up with friends or to indulge in a good book.

The options for enjoying fresh, tasty food while sipping are rich and varied. With indulgent sweet and savoury breakfast items and dishes available in the morning, and mouth-watering sandwiches and pasta dishes on the menu for lunch, there is never a wrong time of day to sit down and take in this aspect of Milanese life.

CAFÉ SOCIETYFrom indulgent breakfast menus to extensive sandwich ranges and world-class coffee, Milan’s caffès have much to offer, as Kirsty Andrewsdiscovers

SHOP | 85

B A R L U C E

Located in the Fondazione Prada art and culture complex, Bar Luce was designed by film director Wes Anderson. The striking interior design includes original architectural and decorative details such as a glass roof in the style of that of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele. These traditional elements are creatively juxtaposed with colour-block seating and Formica tables. Anderson’s interior design is reminiscent of Italian popular culture and aesthetics from the 1950s and 1960s, echoing his earlier artistic work. Bar Luce, which offers an extensive sandwich menu, is not to be missed.Bar Luce,Largo Isarco 2, 20139 Milan, +39 02 5666 2611, fondazioneprada.orgP

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globalblue.com

P A S T I C C E R I A M A R C H E S I

Founded in 1824 in the Corso Magenta

neighbourhood, Marchesi is one of the oldest

and finest pastry shops in Milan and has

occupied the same location on Via Santa Maria

alla Porta for almost 200 years. A new branch

on Via Montenapoleone opened in September

2015, offering a larger, centrally located café,

an expanded selection of the beautifully crafted

pastries and chocolates that Pasticceria

Marchesi is famed for, and new delicacies for

the new venue. Bonbons and sugar-coated

candies are beautifully displayed in glass

cabinets on cherrywood counters typical of

traditional Milanese interiors, in a nod to the

existing historic location.

Pasticceria Marchesi,

Via Montenapoleone 9, 20121 Milan,

+39 02 7600 8238,

pasticceriamarchesi.it

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88 | EXPER IENCE

globalblue.com

1 0 C O R S O C O M O C A F È

This courtyard café is part of Carla Sozzani’s multifunctional arts complex 10 Corso Como. 10 Corso Como Café is hidden in a quiet courtyard, surrounded by lush greenery, and is a perfect place to relax and refuel during a day of shopping. It offers international and Italian cuisine, with seasonal products to suit all tastes served by friendly, attentive staff. Be sure to enjoy an espresso accompanied by beautifully decorated cookies to finish off your lunch.10 Corso Como Café,Corso Como 10, 20154 Milan, +39 02 2901 3581,10corsocomo.com

Bambini vestiti da bambiniilgufo.it

90 | EXPER IENCE

globalblue.com

T A G L I O

Small and informal, tucked away in the Navigli

neighbourhood, Taglio is a hit with locals for its

creative and inspiring menu based around fresh

produce. The atmosphere is friendly and

relaxed; settle in at one of the small wooden

tables to enjoy a charming Italian café

experience. Staff are friendly, attentive and

informative, and eager to share their knowledge

of their food and processes. After enjoying your

meal, you can also take away the delectable

treats on offer, from preserves to pasta, as the

café is a store as well as a place to eat.

Taglio,

Via Vigevano 10, 20144 Milan,

+39 02 3653 4294, taglio.me

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MILANO Samsonite Store via San Pietro all’Orto 11 - via Belfore 6 - C.C. Fiordaliso - ROMA House of Samsonite via del Tritone 149

SAMSONITE FACTORY OUTLETS: Cantello (VA) - Corsico (MI) - Vicolungo The Style Outlets (NO) - Serravalle Designer Outlet (AL)

Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets (BO) - Fidenza Village (PR) - Valdichiana Outlet Village (AR) - Barberino Designer Outlet (FI)

Castel Romano Designer Outlet (RM) - Valmontone Outlet (RM)

globalblue.com

92 | EXPER IENCE

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SOHO HOUSE ISTANBUL

Soho House Istanbul has taken over Palazzo Corpi, one of the most historic and beautiful buildings in the Beyoğlu area of the city. The palace was commissioned in 1873, at the request of wealthy Italian shipbuilder Ignazio Corpi, and built using the finest materials, including Carrara marble; renowned artists were invited to depict Greek mythological

scenes. After housing the US embassy, it was acquired by the Soho House Group in 2014 and has been meticulously restored and impeccably designed to create an impressively grand and irresistibly cool venue.Soho House Istanbul,Evliya Celebi Mahallesi, Mesrutiyet Caddesi 56, Beyoğlu, +90 (0)212 377 7100,sohohouseistanbul.com

The world’s fnest hotels boast locations in the most desirable city districts, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities that range from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spas ofering state-of-the-art treatments. SHOP shares its pick of some of the very best

STAY IN STYLE

SHOP | 93

SIX SENSES DUORO VALLEYSet in a renovated 19th-century manor house perched at the top of a hill, the Six Senses Douro Valley provides stunning views of the surrounding Portuguese countryside. It’s an ideal venue for visitors who are interested in wine: this is the oldest demarcated wine-producing region in the world, leading the Alto

Douro area to become a Unesco World Heritage site, and the hotel features its own Wine Library, where guests can sample varieties and enjoy regional tapas before dinner. Guests of the hotel’s rooms, suites and villas have access to the state-of-the-art spa with its range of treatments, some using grapes. Six Senses Douro Valley,Quinta de Vale Abraão, 5100-758 Lamego, +351 254 660600, sixsenses.com

globalblue.com

SHOP | 95

THE LANESBOROUGH

Located in a building that dates back to the early 18th century, London’s Lanesborough hotel is welcoming guests once again following extensive renovations. Positioned in Knightsbridge on the fringes of Hyde Park, the building was originally completed in 1719 for Viscount Lanesborough. As a hotel it comprises 93 elegant guestrooms and suites which have been carefully restored and refurbished

including the Royal Suite which, with seven impressive bedrooms, is the largest in London. Gastronomic highlights are provided by Céleste, the hotel’s fine-dining restaurant, which is presided over by French chef patron Eric Frechon and his protégé Florian Favario.The Lanesborough,Hyde Park Corner, London SW1X 7TA, +44 (0)20 7259 5599, lanesborough.com

96 | EXPER IENCE

globalblue.com

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AMAN TOKYO

Spanning the top six floors of the Otemachi

Tower, this sleek, modern and ultra-stylish

hotel is Aman’s first in Japan. It provides

tranquil spaces in this busy city, including an

interior garden, swimming pool and a spa with

purpose-built yoga and Pilates studios. Heavily

inspired by traditional Japanese aesthetics, the

hotel’s 84 rooms are impressively spacious and

equipped with a furo (a deep Japanese bath

tub), ensuring that all guests have the

opportunity to unwind and recharge. While

here, take time to browse some of the books on

Japanese art and culture in the library.

Aman Tokyo,

Otemachi Tower, 1-5-6 Otemachi,

Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 100-0004,

+81 (0)3 5224 3333,

aman.com/resorts/aman-tokyo

98 | GUIDE

THE GUIDE

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Above: Milan’s iconic Porta Sempione

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Milan with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from an historic silverware boutique to the best gelaterias in town. Start with our highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/milan.

A Glimpse Of Milan

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Tourist Information Place Of Interest

MILANV

IA B

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TT

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VIA PORRONE VIA

S. D

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VIA

MA

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INA

VIA SPAD

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VIA MER AVIGLI

VIA GI ULIN

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VIA SAN TOMA SO

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VIA DELL’ORSO

VIA

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MA

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FU

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VIA SANT 'ORSOLA

VIA

BR

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V

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VIA FIORI CHIARI

VIA PONTACCIO

PIA Z Z A C A STELLO

FORO BUONAPARTE

FOR

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Piazza Pio XI

Piazza

Cordusio

Piazza

Castello

Piazza Santa

Maria Beltrade

Piazza Affari

CASTELLO SFORZESCO

PICCOLO

TEATRO

PINACOTECA

DI BRERA

BIBLIOTECA

AMBROSIANA

TEATRO

LITTA

PALAZZO

DELLA BORSA

CAIROLI

DANTE CORDUSIO

PAGE

120

SHOP HIGHLIGHTS

Pasticceria Marchesi

Sample some fine pasticcini

(Italian pastries) at this

historic pasticceria’s new branch.

Pasticceria Marchesi,

Via Montenapoleone 9,

20121 Milan,

+39 02 7600 8238,

pasticceriamarchesi.it

FEATURED ON PAGE 86

Fratelli Rossetti

Stock up on fabulous

footwear from this

well-known shoemaker.

Fratelli Rossetti,

Via Montenapoleone 1,

20121 Milan,

+39 02 7602 1650,

fratellirossetti.com

FEATURED ON PAGE 68

Pisa Orologeria

Discover the latest watches

from premium brands such

as Audemars Piguet.

Pisa Orologeria,

Via Pietro Verri 7,

20121 Milan,

+39 02 762081,

pisaorologeria.com

FEATURED ON PAGE 50

10 Corso Como Café

This leafy café combines

food and fashion.

10 Corso Como Café,

Corso Como 10,

20154 Milan,

+39 02 2901 3581,

10corsocomo.com

FEATURED ON PAGE 88

Metro

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VIA DELL’ ANNUNCIATA

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VIA FATEBENEFR ATELLI

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SPIR

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VIA V

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VIA

SAN

T ’ANDREA

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VIA

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CORSO MATTEOTTI CORSO MATTEOTTI CORSO MONFORTE

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Piazza

San Carlo

Piazza

Meda

Piazza

Croce

Rossa

Piazza

San Babila

Piazza

Cavour

Piazza Della

Scala

Piazza

Del Duomo

MUSEO POLDI PEZZOLI

TEATRO ALLA

SCALA

VILLA BELGIOIOSO &

GALLERIA D'ARTE MODERNA

MUSEO

BAGATTI

VALSECCHI

CHIESA DI

SAN BABILA

PALAZZO

MARINO

DUOMO

PALAZZO REALE

VILLA NECCHI

CAMPIGLIO

CONSERVATORIO

GIUSEPPE VERDI

BASILICA

DI SAN MARCO

PALAZZO

MORANDO

TEATRO NUOVO

MUSEO CIVICO

DI STORIA

NATURALE

MUSEO DEL NOVECENTO

GRANDE MUSEO DEL DUOMO

DUOMO

SAN BABILA

MONTENAPOLEONE

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102 | GUIDE

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VIA

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OVS INDUSTRY ●

BERSHKA ●MM ●

BIBA ●BOTTEGA VERDE ●

SWEET WAY ●MAC ●

BOUTIQUE DEL GIOIELLO ●TRE ESSE SPORT ●

AW LAB ●

CIP GIOIELLI ●PULL & BEAR ●

SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ ● KIEHL'S ●

GUESS ●

TEZENIS ●TALLY WEIJL ●

DIXIE ●

● INTIMISSIMI● VICTORIA'S SECRET

● CALZEDONIA ● NARA CAMICIE

● CAMPER

● GEOX● FOOT LOCKER

● DESIGUAL● MANGO

● MCS ● NIKE STORE

● VERGELIO● CARPISA

● KIKO● KEY BE

● PIMKIE ● ACCESSORIZE

● YAMAMAY● MARCO

● OTTICA BARELLO

● GIOIELLERIA FUGAZZI● TRONY

OYSHO ●

ITALIA MISSORI

Piazza Pio XI

DANTE CORDUSIO

PiazzaMercanti

Piazza Del Duomo

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● BORSALINO● CENTENARI● MEJANA● PIUMELLI● CHURCH’S● NOLI● BRIC’S● GUCCI● GIORGIO ARMANI

● LOUIS VUITTON

Del DuomoPiazza DUOMO

Piazza Scala

● OXUS

● VIGANÓ

● LIBRERIA BOCCA

● MASSIMO DUTTI

VERSACE ●

MERCEDES ME ●

ISTITUTO POLIGRAFICO ●

STEFANEL ●

NARA CAMICIE ●

CADÉ ●

COMUNE DI MILANOURBAN CENTRE ●

RIZZOLI ●

ANDREW'S TIES ●

LUISA SPAGNOLI ●LEO PIZZO ●

PRADA ●

TOD’S ●SWAROVSKI ●

● PRADA

TRUSSARDI ●

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, Via San Pietro all’Orto & Via Torino

CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE II AREA

Metro Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer Place Of Interest

P.54

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Piazza Meda

Piazza Liberty PiazzaSan Babila

SAN BABILA

DUOMO

MARIUCCIA ●

● NESPRESSOCOLLEZIONE

PRIVATA VENEZIA ●

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FOOTBALL TEAM ●

SUPERDRY ●

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● CLARK'S

● DIMENSIONE DANZA

● LOLITA

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●

Cioccolati

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CORSO MATTEOTTI CORSO MATTEOTTI

VIA

SA

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MASCHIO ●

EYE STYLE ●

POMELLATO ●

VERSACE COLLECTION ●

YOUNG

VERSACE ●

MONDADODRI

MULTICENTER ●

SAMSONITE ●

MAURO LEONE ●

CONTIGO ●

BOSE ●

CASHMIRINO ●

FOR PETS ONLY ●

● ISAIA

● BAGUTTA

● IL GUFO

● ABERCROMBIE & FITCH

ZEPTER

● INTERNATIONAL

● BROOKS BROTHERS

● PRONOVIAS

● SANDRO FERRONE

● MARCO

Piazza

San Carlo

Piazza

San Babila

SAN BABILA

Department Store Featured In This Issue

P.52

P.42

P.124

Restaurant Gelateria

SHOP | 106SHOP | 105

Piazza San Babila, Corso Matteotti, Via Bigli, Corso Venezia & Corso Europa

Piazza San Babila

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PIAZZA SAN BABILA AREA

Metro

Bar Restaurant

Featured In This Issue Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

P.48

108 | GUIDE

Via Sant’Andrea, Via Pietro Verri & Piazza Meda, Via Gesù, Via Borgospesso & Via Santo Spirito

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SILVANO LATTANZI ●LUCIANO BARBERA ●

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● MONTEGRAPPA● FABBRICATORE

● SCHREIBER● WALTER SHOES

● INBORGOSPESSO 18● FILIPPO GABRIELE

● GALLUCCI

● GALLERIA SILVA LOUIS MICHAIL● TOP TIME MUSA

● MONTENAPOLEONE FINE JEWELRY● BORGOSPESSO 6

● SOLO BLU

ROBERTO DEL CARLO ●

MI.MI.SOL. ●

MODICA MILANO ●GREYMER ●

MARC CAIN ●

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● DANIELE ALESSANDRINI● ZADIG & VOLTAIRE

● PAROSH● DE VECCHI MILANO 1935

● N° 21

BALENCIAGA ●MAURO GRIFONI ●

ANTIQUARIATO BENSI ●GIOIELLI DI SANTO SPIRITO 13 ●

GIORGIO JANEKE ●GIANVITO ROSSI ●

BALLIN ●CHANTECLER ●

WALTER PADOVANI● ANTIQUARIO

STELLAMCCARTNEY ●

OTTICA S.SPIRITO ●CASATO ●

Global Blue Lounge

Metro

Featured In This Issue

Place Of Interest Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

Global Blue Lounge

P.110

P.50

IT’S TIME TO OPEN.

— For more information please visit www.pisaorologeria.com —

G E N È V E

Pisa Orologeria. New Flagship Store in Via Verri, Milan.

110 | GUIDE

Via Montenapoleone

PiazzaCroceRossa

VIA MARINA

VIA

SA

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HENRY BEGUELIN

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Cova

Marchesi P

asticceria

Global Blue Lounge,

Via Santo Spirito 5,

20121 Milan,

globalblue.com

FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 108

Metro

Featured In This Issue

Café

GLOBAL BLUE LOUNGE

Global Blue’s new Lounge offers Tax Free

Shopping services in a relaxed environment.

Pop in to see us and get your refund quickly

and easily, paid in cash or to your card,

while enjoying our comfortable lounge. As

we arrange your refund more quickly than

ever before, enjoy some refreshments or

make use of our Wi-Fi service. Be sure to

talk to Global Blue’s attentive, professional

members of staff about our many services,

including concierge services and shopping

consultancy which are designed to make

your stay as smooth as possible.

Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

P.46

P.52

P.54

P.24

P.50

P.56

VIA MONTENAPOLEONE, 19 20121 MILANO

TEL: +39 02 76003697

MONDAY- SUNDAY 10 AM - 7 PM

SHOP AT TESTONI.COM

112 | GUIDE

SPIGA & VIA MANZONI AREA

VIA BIGLI

VIA

BIG

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FRANCK MULLER G

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RICHARD M

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Via della Spiga

Metro Featured In This Issue Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

P.45

P.114

P.44

P.44

114 | GUIDE

BERNASCONI MILANO 1872

Bernasconi Milano 1872 has sold exquisite

silverware for over 140 years and was once a

supplier to the royal household of Savoy. As

well as silverware, the elegant boutique on Via

Manzoni has a selection of premium

handcrafted items made by the region’s most

skilled artisans out of natural materials such as

leather, marble, stone and mother of pearl.

Bernasconi Milano 1872,

Via Alessandro Manzoni 44, 20121 Milan,

+39 02 8646 0923, bernasconi1872.com

FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 116

SHOP DIARYA ROUND-UP OF THIS SEASON’S MUST-DOS

SALONE INTERNAZIONALE DEL

MOBILE

As the world’s largest exhibition of

design and furniture, the Salone Internazionale

del Mobile attracts a prestigious international

crowd. Although the official venue is located a

little way outside of the city, visitors to Milan

can also enjoy plenty of centrally located

exhibitions and events. Visit: salonemilano.it

CORTILI APERTI

This annual event offers visitors the

chance to glimpse the interiors of

some of the city’s most beautiful private homes

and buildings. For one weekend, a select

number of residences, which have previously

included Palazzo Greppi and Casa Fontana

Silvestri, open their courtyards to the public.

Visit: cortiliaperti.it

LA NOTTE BIANCA

For one night a year, Milan is the city

that doesn’t sleep, as bars, shops,

restaurants and cinemas extend their opening

hours to provide all-night entertainment.

Visit: comune.milano.it

APR

MAY

JUN

MARCO BICEGO

Marco Bicego inherited his eponymous

jewellery brand from his father, who set up

the business in the 1950s. The designer is

inspired by his Venetian roots; every piece is

made by hand at the company’s

headquarters in the Veneto region. Marco

Bicego jewellery is admired for its artisanal

hand engraving, hand-twisted coil designs

and the multicoloured gemstones which are

a staple of Bicego’s work.

Marco Bicego,

Via della Spiga 5, 20122 Milan,

+39 02 9122 0010, marcobicego.com

FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 112 PH

OT

O: (

TO

P) G

IUS

EP

PE

MA

RE

SC

A

116 | GUIDE

Via Manzoni & Via Fatebenefratelli

CO

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NU

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CORSO MATTEOTTI CORSO MATTEOTTI

VIA

SA

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VIA G

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VIA BIGLI

VIA

BIG

LI

VIA

MO

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VIA DELL’ ANNUNCIATA

VIA DELL’ ANNUNCIATA

VIA

DE

LL

A S

PIG

A

VIA

SA

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RO

AL

L’OR

TO

VIA

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Piazza Scala

VIA V

ERRI

VIA

SANT’A

NDREA

VIA

MO

NT

EN

AP

OLE

ON

E

VIA

MO

NT

EN

AP

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ON

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Piazza Meda

PiazzaCavour

VIA FATEBENEFRATELLI VIA FATEBENEFR ATELLI

VIA

SE

NA

TO

V

IA M

AN

ZO

NI

VIA

MA

NZ

ON

I

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IA M

AN

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POLD

I PEZZ

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US

EUM

● CINZIA ROCCA

● FOGLIE DI TÉ

● FARSETTI ARTE

●PREATTONI 1902

●DOUGLAS

BOTTEGA

●DEL CASHM

ERE

● DE M

ATTIA

●SEVENTY

●DE W

AN

●BERNASCONI M

ILANO 1872

● D MAGAZINE

●SIM

ONETTA

●M

ARTINELLI PRIMUS

● EL GANSO

● MISS GRANT

●HACKETT

●M

ANILA GRACE

●ANTONIO CROCE

●PATRIZIA PEPE

●TW

INSET

●PAUL SM

ITH

●POLTRONA FRAU

●GANT

●24 M

ANZONI PELLICCE

●PELLINI

●PAL ZILERI

●CANTARELLI

● PEDERZANI

●FREY W

ILLE

●JO M

ALONE

●COCCINELLE

●SANDRO

● WOLFORD

●SATELLITE PARIS

● GALLO

● GIORGIO GRATI

● M

IDALI

● WANNENES

●FABIO INGHIRAM

I

●REPORTER

●M

ORTAROTTI

●GESSI

●ALESSI

● ARTEMIDE

● BIJOUX DE PARIS

● MIRCO CATTAI

● VERONESI

● MANZONI OTTICA

● MUSTO CALZATURE

● LA FELTRINELLI

DRUMOHR ●

SAHRAI ●

BELLORA ●

7 FOR ALL MANKIND ●

ANNA RITAN ●

ILLULIAN ●

VITTORIA ●

HETTABRETZ ●

OTTO D'AME ●

MARYLING ●

ILLULIAN TAPPETI ●

ELISABETTA FRANCHI ●

DIRK BIKKEMBERGS ● ●

AD

56

MIL

AN

O

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AV

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AM

EN

TI

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MA

RT

LA

DY

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UT

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SIG

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AL

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ISIO

NN

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●S

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VIA

●

CA

MIC

ISS

IMA

ARMANI MANZONI 31 ●

PENNISI ●

LOCMAN ●

KENZO ●

PIACENZA CASHMERE ●

VILLA ●

MARINELLA CRAVATTE ●

PRATESI ●

CRUCIANI ●

LORI BLU ●

LA PERLA ●VALLI ●

ATELIER EME ●

BRUSADELLI ●

BONPOINT ●

TEAROSE ●

COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ●

SAWAYA & M

ORONI ●

FRETTE ●

DAVIDE CENCI ●

PiazzaCroceRossa

MONTENAPOLEONE

VALEXTRA ●

● M

ARI

Galleria Manzoni

●SAHRAI

● FOTO OTTICA CAVOUR

MIROGLIO PIAZZA

DELLA SCALA ●

JAMES RIVIERE ●

RICK OW

ENS ●

GALLERIE D’ARTE-PIAZZA SCALA

Larte

BOLAFFI ●

Metro

Featured In This Issue

Place Of Interest Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

Restaurant

P.114

P.45

RICK OWENS MILAN

VIA MONTE DI PIETA’ 13

20121 MILAN

TEL + 39 02 45386030

WWW.RICKOWENS.EU

STORE@RICKOWENSMILAN.COM

OPEN MONDAY TO SATURDAY

FROM 10:30 A.M. TO 7:30 P.M.

CLOSED ON SUNDAY

118 | GUIDE

Corso Magenta

VIA BERNARDINO LUINI

VIA SAN NICOLA

VIA NIRONE

VIA

SA

NT

'AG

NE

SE

A SAN GIOVANNI SUL MURO

VIA BRI SA

VIA PORLEZZ A

VIA

ME

RA

VIG

LI C

OR

SO

MA

GE

NT

A

CO

RS

O M

AG

EN

TA

CO

RS

O M

AG

EN

TA

CERATINA 1919 ●

MARIA GRAZIAMANESCALCHI ●

SHUFFLES ● CAPPELLERIA MELEGARI ●

PIUMINI DANESI ●

SERVETTO ●

ULTRA CHIC ●OTTICA

MERAVIGLI ●

PERLITA ● CASA DEL BIANCO ●

MARIONNAUD ●BOTTA GIOIELLI ●

BOGGI ●FLAMANT ●

MATIAS OUTLET ●PERFUME BY CALÈ ●

DASSI ● LA PICCOLA GIOIELLERIA ●

M.C.M. SANTA MARIANOVELLA ●

ERA L'ORA ●

BANG & OLUFSEN ● LOCHERBER ●

DOTTI ●CALAMAI ●

ANTIQUARIATOPALAZZO LITTA ●

VIA TIVOLI ●

OTTICA MAGENTA ●

GIOIELLI ORO ARGENTO ●

METROPOLITAN ●

COSIMO GENTILE ●

TEATRO

LITTA

● PETALI

● HILDEGARD● ESIBIUSI● EYETEC OTTICA● CAMICERIA TIZIANO● MELLUSO STORE● WOOL CASHMERE

● PANTONE UNIVERSALE● CAMICISSIMAGIOIELLERIA● FALLIVA PANIZZI● GREAT MASTERS OF TIME● PELLINI ● M. BARDELLI

● RANCÉ ● GUANTI ● FRATELLI ROSSETTI

● CURIOSITÀ ESOTERICHE

● EE ERCOLESSI● BUSCEMI

● CHICCHE DI CALZE● L’ETICHETTA

● ALDO GUGLIELMINOTTI● BOTTEGA ARTIGIANA TIFERNATE● ABITINO EASY CHIC● MORTAROTTI

● EF ARTE ● L’ERBOLARIO ● FIGUS● MODO MILANO

● PAOLO TONALI

● PEPE CHILDREN SHOES

● AMELIA SHOP

COLTELLERIA● LORENZI MILANO

● ZUCCA STREGATA

VI A P

OR

LE

ZZ

A

VIA

RO

VELLO

VIA

BR

OL

ET

TO

VIA

SP

AD

AR

I

VIA CU

SAN

I

VIA

MA

ZZ

INI

VIA

MER

AVIG

LI

VIA GI U LINI

VIA SAN TOMASO

VIA CORDUSIO

VIA GAETANO NEGRI

DUOMO

VIA PORRO

NE

CAIROLIV

IA D

AN

TE

VIA

DA

NT

E

VIA

OR

EF

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PiazzaCordusio

DANTE CORDUSIO

VIA TORINO

● DU PAREIL...AU MÊME ● JACADI● NADINE● DANTE 16● YAMAMAY ● GRISSPORT ● CELIO ● SEPHORA● BATA● L’OCCITANE● PETIT BATEAU ● GUTTERIDGE

● CAMICISSIMA● UNO DE 50 ● LACOSTE ● CHICCO ● GEOX ● KIEHL'S

● ELENA MIRÒ● CANETTA● GUESS● KOCCA ● MUSTO ● WOMO ● FAST WEB ● CESAR

● WIND

● L'ERBOLARIO

● BATA

● ALDO CITTERIO

● 3 STORE

● GIOIELLERIA FEDELI

● PELLETTERIA RICCARDI

● VODAFONE

● OROLOGERIA AL DUOMO

● SAVINELLI

● LE SCARPE DI PAOLO

● BLU SAND

● IMPERIAL● KIKO● TRIUMPH● CARPISA● SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ● TIM

GOLDEN POINT ●

SOLARIS ●

LE COQ SPORTIF ●

SWAROVSKI ●

MOLESKINE ●

FOOT LOCKER ●

LO BY LOVABLE ●

OVS ●

PIQUADRO ●

ALDO ●

DESIGUAL ●

LOLAANDGRACE ●

SILVIAN HEACH ●

ANGELICO ●

G STAR RAW ●

LENZUOLISSIMI ●

OTTICA VIGEVANO ●

D’AUGUSTA GIOIELLI ●

MARCO ●

LIMONI ●

IMAGINARIUM ●CARLO PAZOLINI ●

CLASS ●

LA CITTA' DEL SOLE ●

DEL MARE 1911 ● PERLIER ●

FOOTBALL CENTRE ●SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ ●

DESIRÈE PROFUMERIA ●

MAX MARA ●

ZARA ●

● ZANI VIAGGI

DANTE & MAGENTA AREA

Via Dante

Metro

Featured In This Issue

Place Of Interest Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

P.126

E V E R Y T H I N G T H AT D R I V E S M E N

Welcome to the world of Porsche Design. A world that stays eternally young, fresh, and cool by passionately

driving for innovation. A world where new quality materials, technologies, and fnest functional elegance blend into

a truly exclusive, iconic contemporary design. Some call it luxury? We call it essentials for a challenging future.

www.porsche-design.com

Porsche Design Milano | Via della Spiga 42

CHRONOTIMER SERIES 1

DEEP BLUE – Polished titanium

chronograph with deep blue

accents. A fusion of elegance

and sportiness. Swiss Made.

Porsche Design

120 | GUIDE

CORSO COMO, GAE AULENTI & BRERA AREA

VIA CARLO DE CRISTOFO

RIS

VIA TITO S

PERI

VIA

PR

IVA

TA

NIN

O B

ON

NE

T

VIALE PASUBIO

VIALE FRANCESCO CRISPI

CO

RS

O G

AR

IBA

LD

I

VIA

SO

LF

ER

INO

VIA

MIL

AZ

ZO

VIA

ME

LC

HIO

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IOIA

VIA

S.M

AR

CO

CO

RS

O G

AR

IBA

LD

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CO

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OM

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V

. VIN

CEN

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VIALE FR ANCESCO CRISPI

BASTIONI DI PORTA NUOVA

VI V

OL

TA

VI V

OL

TA

ADIDAS ●PINKO ●SANDRO ●NAUGHTY DOG ●

MANGANO ●U-BOAT ●

G-SHOCK ●NAELE ●ANTEPRIMA ● MOMONI' ●ROBERTO TELERIE ●

● HSL● 10 CORSO COMO● BOULE DE NEIGE● MASSIMO REBECCHI

● BOULE DE NEIGE● MASSIMO REBECCHI● AVERY● ERAL 55

MILANO CACHEMIRE ●

MANILA GRACE ●

GIADA DONNA ●

BUTTERO ●

● 120% LINO

● VINTAGE WATCHES MILANO

● ARTEST

● SPAZIO 23

● ASAP

● CUSTO BARCELONA

● BERGOMI

BLAUER ●

PLACE MINUIT ●

LES AMIS ●

PATAGONIA ●

● DECIO

● HIGH TECHOTTICA ARTIOLI ●

● OROLOGERIA LUIGI VERGA

● VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

● LES HOMMES

● DSQUARED 2

MAISON MARGIELA ●COSTUME NATIONAL ●

LOUBOUTIN ●MOSCHINO ●

LA FELTRINELLI ● READ EAT DREAM

REPLAY ●

SE

PH

OR

A ●

NIK

E ●

BE

RG

OM

I ●

HUGO BO

SS ●

CO

LM

AR

●

MU

JI ●

STAZIONE PORTA GARIBALDI

GARIBALDI FS

Piazza Gae Aulenti

Piazza XXV Aprile

● EATALY

MARYLING ●PANDORA ●

SWATCH ●SELECTED SHOPS IN STAZIONE PORTA GARIBALDI:

Accessorize

Calzedonia Eurobijoux Foot Locker Gemelli Gioielli La Feltrinelli Tezenis

Piazza Gae Aulenti, Corso Como & Corso Garibaldi

Metro Featured In This Issue

Train Station

WAIT AND SEE

Wait and See’s location within a former

convent is the perfect complement to its

quirky style. The store was set up by the

well-travelled Uberta Zambeletti, who

ensures that there’s always a fashion-forward

edit of items.

Wait and See,

Via Santa Marta 14, 20123 Milan,

+39 02 7208 0195, waitandsee.it

Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer Shopping Centre/Mall

P.50

P.52

Mila

no

c

ors

o V

itto

rio

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ma

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ele

ib

lu

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bo

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offic

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122 | GUIDE

VIA

MADONNINA

VIA DELIO TESSA

VIA

LO

VA

NIO

CO

RS

O G

AR

IBA

LD

I

VIA DELLA MOSCOVA

VIA

ST

AT

UT

O

VIA PALERMO

VIA DELL’ORSO

VIA CUSANI

CO

RS

O G

AR

IBA

LD

I CO

RS

O G

AR

IBA

LD

I VIA

ME

RC

AT

O V

IA

PO

NT

E V

ET

ER

O

VIA L ANDOLFO

VIA TIVOLI

VIA PONTACCIO

SURPLUS ●

BORMIOLI ●

● LUCA GIUSTI

● MC KENZY

● BANG & OLUFSEN

● IL GIARDINO DEL CORSO

● LUCIANA TREVISAN

● BIALETTI

● LIVELY

KARTELL BY

● LAUFEN

● JASMINE MILANO● REJOICE● FIGUS DESIGNER

● CLEP● MY TEMPORARY SHOP● BRUNO BENINI● RUDE CONCEPT● GHIGLINO

● KICKERS● GIANNI CHIARINI● LIOLA'

● KAMMI

BICICLETTE ROSSIGNOLI ●

SALEWA ●

SI CAFFE' ●

LE CREUSET ●

MILAURA ●

● OVS

● FRANCESCA BY SOTTINI

● NADIA CORTI● DELSEY● IL QUADRILATERO DESIGN

● MONTEZEMOLO

● E

TR

O

LE

GIO

IE

● D

I FU

NA

RO

● C

AT

TIN

A

● T

WIN

SE

T

● T

RO

LL

BE

AD

S

● C

INN

AM

ON

● F.C

LIO

● B

IVIA

● 4

UA

TT

RO

● U

NO

PIU

'

● C

LA

N U

PS

TA

IRS

● A

IEL

LO

CA

NE

TT

A●

L'AB

ITIN

O E

AS

Y C

HIC

●

PELLICCERIA MODA TORINESE FUMAGALLI ●

G81 ●

LIPSTICK VINTAGE ●CITTA' DEL SOLE ●

THE BRIDGE ●

PINKO ●

SERAFINI ●

LIU JO ●

VIA VERDI ●

MSGM ●

VINTAGE 55 - WOMAN ●

VINTAGE 55 - MEN ●

FLAG MI -GOLDEN GOOSE ●

● MARC BY MARC JACOBS

● OTTICA DELL'ORSO

● 9 NINE PERFUMERY ARTS

● PRIA

● WALTER

● GIOFFRÈ

● MUSTO

● COSIMO GENTILE

● MANEE

● MERONI SÌ

● ASH

CREED ●TITÀ BIJOUX ●

ANGELA CAPUTI ●OFFICINA PROFUMO ●BARBARA DI DAVIDE ●

ALFONSO GARLANDO ●

● L

UIS

A B

EC

CA

RIA

● D

E S

IMO

NE

VIA CUSANI

VIA DELL’ORSO

VIA

CIO

VA

SS

O

VIA DEL LAURO

VIA

PO

NT

E V

ET

ER

O

GIA

NL

UC

A S

AIT

TO

●

● S

US

AN

NA

TR

IPI

● G

IOIE

LL

I DE

LL

'OR

SO

● A

NT

ON

IA

● C

LU

TI

GO

LD

EN

GO

OS

E ●

FIT

FL

OP

●

NE

RO

NE

●

GE

NT

RY

PO

RT

OF

INO

●

EU

RO

TT

ICA

●

L'E

RB

OL

AR

IO ●

CO

SIM

O

GE

NT

ILE

● M

US

TO

●

VIA

SO

LF

ER

INO

V

IA S

OL

FE

RIN

O

VIA PONTACCIO

VIA ANCONA

VIA

CIO

VA

SS

O

VIA GOITO

PIAZETTA S. MARCO

VIA DELL’ORSO VIA MONTE DI PIETÀ

VIA

BR

ER

A

V

IA B

RE

RA

VIA FATEBENEFRATELLI

● L'OCCITANE● JE M'EN FOUS● LA TENDA● BAGATT● ILIPRANDI● LE SOLFERINE● GIADA PROFUMERIE

● KRISTINA TI

● THE SLOWER STORE

● GLAMOUR IN ROSE

● CITTERIO GIOIELLI

BOFFI SOLFERINO ●

FALIERO SARTI ●

ST. BARTH ●

AMINA RUBINACCI ●

LIBERO MILANO ●

OLLY ●

SONIA DE NISCO ●

THE STORE ●

OTTICA AVANZI ●BLU DEEP ●

GIOIELLI MERÙ ●PESERICO ● LO SFIZIO ●

MALI PARMI ●LE PANDORINE ●

MANUEL RITZ ●SOLFERINO MARKET ●

● MASSIMO ALBA

● PROFUMO

● BARK

● AGRESTI

● OLFATTORIO

● ROBERTO MUSSO

● CAMPOMARZIO 70

RICHARD ● GINORI

● ONE BRERA

● DIPTYQYE PARIS

GUCCI ●

Corso Garibaldi, Via Ponte Vetero & Via Madonnina

Via Solferino & Via Brera

Via Cusani & Via Dell’Orso

Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

124 | GUIDE

TOP 3... GELATERIAS

Il Massimo del Gelato

A must-visit for chocolate lovers, Il Massimo del Gelato offers 10

different chocolate flavours, some enriched with coffee,

cinnamon, pepper or even flakes of real gold.

Il Massimo del Gelato, Via Lodovico Castelvetro 18, 20154 Milan,

+39 02 349 4943, ilmassimodelgelato.it

Gelato Giusto

Gelato Giusto uses only the best-quality ingredients for each of its

flavours. Visit this compact gelateria just off Corso Buenos Aires

to sample the perfectly made seasonal flavours.

Gelato Giusto, Via San Gregorio 17, 20124 Milan,

+39 02 2951 0284, gelatogiusto.it

Cioccolati Italiani

This gelateria occupies a prime position close to the Duomo. Ice

cream lovers flock here for the cones, which are filled with a

choice of white, milk or dark chocolate gelato.

Cioccolati Italiani, Via San Raffaele 6, 20121 Milan,

+39 02 8909 3820, cioccolatitaliani.it

FEATURED ON PAGE 103

LABORATORIO PARAVICINI

Laboratorio Paravicini was

founded in the 1990s to offer

an alternative to mass-

produced ceramics and its

aim is to offer pieces which

are thoughtfully designed

and carefully crafted. Each

piece is made on site in

Laboratorio Paravicini’s

small workshop, where

beautiful designs from the

traditional to the strikingly

avant-garde are created. The

workshop also happily

accommodates bespoke

requests from those who are

in search of something

personalised.

Laboratorio Paravicini,

Via Nerino 8, 20123 Milan,

+39 02 7202 1006,

paravicini.it

LOCAL TIP

Showcasing

cutting-edge

design, art,

architecture,

fashion and

film, the XXI

Triennale

International

Exhibition is

one of the most

important

events in

Milan’s

calendar. Visit

the Triennale

Design Museum

and look out for

prestigious

exhibitions

taking place

across the city.

126 | GUIDE

VIA

LE

CC

O

VIA

LE

CC

O

VIA MASCAGNI PIETRO

VIA LAMBRO

V

IA LAMBRO

VIA ALVISE CADAMOSTO

VIALE TUN

ISIA

VIALE REGIN

A GIO

VANN

A

VIA PAN

FILO CA

STALD

I

BASTIO

NI D

I PORTA V

ENEZIA

VIALE REGINA GIOVAN

NA

CO

RS

O V

EN

EZ

IA

PiazzaGuglielmoOberdan

VIA

GIU

SE

PP

E S

IRT

OR

I

VIA MARCELLO M

ALPIGHI

VIA PAOLO FRISI

VIA LAZZARO

PALAZZI

VIA

ME

LZ

O

VIA

ME

LZ

O

V

IA A

LE

SS

AN

DR

O T

AD

INO

VIA

AL

ES

SA

ND

RO

TA

DIN

O

VIA

LO

DO

VIC

O S

ET

TA

LA

VIALE VITTORIO

VENETO

VIA G

IOVA

NN

I OM

BON

I

VIA FELICE CASATI

C

OR

SO

BU

EN

OS

AIR

ES

C

OR

SO

BU

EN

OS

AIR

ES

Piazza Santa

Francesca Romana

PORTA VENEZIA

CALVIN KLEIN JEANS ●

VERGELIO ●SISTE’S ●

GAMESTOP ●STRADIVARIUS ●

FBL●

FOSSIL ●BLUKIDS ●

SOLARIS ●KIKO ●

PEPE JEANS ●STEFANEL ●

DOUGLAS ●PERSONA ●ALTIERI ●

SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ ●

● PIQUADRO● GUESS KIDS

● GUESS

● JDC URBAN STORE

● DOCKSTEPS

● F.LLI SOLENNE GIOIELLI

● MILANO HOUSE OF CASHMERE

● LIU JO● DIECIDECIMI

● FURLA

● CLARKS● RITA BOUTIQUE

BRACCIALINI ●PANDORA ●

DESIGUAL ●ELENA MIRO ●

STROILI ORO ●GEOX ●

SWAROVSKI ●

L’OCCITANE ● PUMA ● ● AERONAUTICA MILITARE

● ANTONY MORATO● KOCCA

● DANIEL & MAYER

● CARRERA JEANS● NIKE MILANO

● M COLLECTIVE

CORSO BUENOS AIRES AREA

Corso Buenos Aires

Metro

ZANI VIAGGI

Enhance your trip to Milan with Zani

Viaggi, the city tour specialist. Zani Viaggi’s

coach trips take in the best of Milan’s

culture, art and fashion, and shopping tours

to some of Italy’s finest outlets are also

available. Services run from the city centre

to shopping villages which showcase

designer brands at discount prices.

Destinations include Serravalle Designer

Outlet, the second largest outlet in Europe,

Fidenza Village with its impressive selection

of boutiques, and Vicolungo the Style

Outlet. Zani Viaggi can also take you across

the border to Switzerland, to the stores at

FoxTown. Wherever you go, Zani Viaggi

will ensure you travel in style.

Zani Viaggi, Milan Visitor Center,

Largo Cairoli/Via Cusani, 20121 Milan,

+39 02 867131, zaniviaggi.com

FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 118

Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

MILANO, Piazza Duomo 19 - contacts: +39 02 87 40 10 - info@cielo.it

DAY TRIP

128 | GUIDE

MY PERFECT DAY

10am

The perfect way to

start your shopping day is

with an Illy espresso. This

is the quintessential coffee

preparation – rich, aromatic

and velvety.

12pm

Visit the Missoni

boutique to discover

colourful, fine knits that are

a versatile summer staple.

2pm

For a taste of typical

Italian cuisine, head to

Hosteria delle Terre

Verdiane where you will

discover food that is rich in

history and taste and find

the perfect treat to take

home with you.

4pm

End your day

admiring the innovative

collections at Massimo

Rebecchi. This luxurious

label is known for

combining sleek Italian

tailoring with wearable

comfort.

DON’T MISS …

Shopping & Food experience:

This exclusive package includes:

• A guided tour to discover the

most prestigious local products,

such as Parmiggiano Reggiano

cheese

• Return tickets from central Milan

to Fidenza Village by Shopping

Express®

• A VIP card providing an

additional 10% saving across

the village

Shopping & Art experience:

This exclusive package includes:

• Entrance to the Galleria

Nazionale di Parma with its

collection of Italian Renaissance

masterpieces

• Return tickets from central Milan

to Fidenza Village by Shopping

Express®

• A VIP card providing an

additional 10% saving across

the village

OPENING TIMES

Monday-Sunday: 10am-8pm

HOW TO GET THERE

By Car

Exit the A1 motorway at

Fidenza/Salsomaggiore.

Pass the tollbooth and

Fidenza Village is 100 metres

to your left.

By Shopping

Express

The Shopping Express®

luxury coach service runs from

central Milan to Fidenza

Village daily.

By Train

From Milan:

Fidenza station is on the

direct line into Milano

Centrale with frequent

services and a journey time of

approximately one hour 15

minutes. Upon arrival, take

the shuttle bus to Fidenza

Village; tickets can be

purchased on board.

Fidenza Village

MILANO CENTRALE STATION

A1

E35

FIDENZA VILLAGE

With over 90 top brands, all

with year-round discounts of

up to 70%, as well as

restaurants and cafes, Fidenza

Village is a stylish day out.

Fidenza Village,

Via San Michele Campagna,

43036 Fidenza,

+39 0524 33551,

fidenzavillage.com

Outlet Village Train Station

HAPPY SPORT

130

WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD,SHOP TAX FREE

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Spend over €154.94 and save up to 15.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

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РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД

60: Italy’s New Woman

Новый образ модной Италии

TRANSLATIONS

Бет Дрюс рассказывает о ярком, индивидуальном стиле, который сменил на подиумах Милана привычный блеск итальянский брендов

Перемены в моде всегда ожидаемы. Они могут быть плавными и незаметными, как, например, постепенный уход танкетки или джинсов-скинни. Но иногда перемены стремительны и безапелляционны, и именно это можно наблюдать в коллекциях Gucci на протяжении двух последних сезонов.

Заняв пост креативного директора, Алессандро Микеле последовательно воплощает новое видение стиля. Чувственный образ женщины Gucci сменился необычным и ярким портретом леди. Теперь этот модный дом отдает предпочтение шелку с принтами, цветным кружевам, вязаным юбкам и накидкам, галстуку-бабочке, разноцветному люрексу и прозрачному шифону неоновых цветов. Кроме того, в его обновленном арсенале появились такие очаровательные приемы, как использование пуговиц, ремней и бантов с оптическим обманом. Все это добавляет одежде, украшенной бисером и блестками, цветовой насыщенности и жизнерадостности. «Все дело в этом контрасте между прошлым и будущим», – уточняет Микеле в интервью New York Times. Это во многом объясняет, как удалось коллекции, полной противоречий, выразить одну из важнейших идей этого сезона.

Существенный вклад в настроение новой коллекции сделала стилизация под «моду гиков». Это подразумевает блестящие крупные очки, вязаные перчатки, корсажи и сумки с короткой ручной для ношения на запястье. Сохранились и следы прежнего образа Gucci: например, в стратегическом

использовании фирменных красных и зеленых полос для обозначения талии или кромки, узора из пересекающихся золотых букв GG. Теперь эти элементы выглядят более спокойно и менее вызывающе, чем в прошлые годы.

По мнению Сары Моуэр, главного модного критика Vogue Runway и автора книги Gucci by Gucci, эта перемена имеет значение и за пределами этого модного дома: «Скорость, с которой Gucci преобразился и обновился с момента назначения Алессандро Микеле, просто невероятна, – делится Моуэр. – Я считаю его лидером нового теплого, человеческого и эклектичного направления, к которому стремится современная мода».

Микеле переосмыслил Gucci в духе нашего времени. Эксцентричность, недавно

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появившаяся в коллекциях этого бренда, отсылает к общей тенденции, которая стала очевидной на миланских подиумах. Но если многие делают только первые шаги в новом направлении, то дизайнер Миучча Прада уже работает с этой эстетикой как истинный профессионал. Для нее неожиданные и необычные модели – привычное поле для творчества.

В коллекцию Prada этого сезона вошли пиджаки свободного кроя в стиле 1960-х: они украшены серебряными полосами и вставками из твида и клетчатой шерсти, и сочетаются с воздушной тканью пастельных оттенков. Также уважаемый бренд представил геометричные вязаные однотонные вещи насыщенных цветов, юбки с асимметричным подолом ниже колена и серию аксессуаров, в том числе – кожаные сумки округлой формы и крупные серьги. В числе самых примечательных предметов коллекции – сетчатая вуаль, прикрывающая шею.

Marni в равной степени наделяет смыслом и аксессуары, и одежду, и необычные детали определяют идентичность этого бренда. В этом сезоне палитру составили яркие цвета с акцентом на темно-розовом и насыщенно-зеленом. Для коллекции в целом характерны свободные формы и геометричные линии с контрастными принтами и цветами. Большие кожаные сумки-мешки, серьги из оргстекла и плоские сандалии с квадратными носами – все это еще раз подтверждает, что дизайнер бренда Консуэло Кастильони остается одним из создателей причудливой моды.

Судя по значительным переменам в стиле Gucci и ярким идеям таких брендов, как Marni, в итальянскую моду пришла особая острота, и эти эксперименты породили особую атмосферу предвкушения. Очевидно, что эта перемена в модном дизайне, которую можно наблюдать в Милане, заразительна. Прямо на наших

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свитшотах. На яркой цветной обуви Gucci появились цветочные принты, вельветовые вставки и шипы. Бренд Bottega Veneta положил начало неожиданному тренду на сочетание сандалий с носками. А задняя часть классических туфель от Emporio Armani подчеркнута узором пейсли.

Одназначно, мужчины одеваются все менее формально, а галстуки и подобные аксессуары, больше не являются обязательным дресс-кодом. Именно поэтому обувь чаще, чем когда-либо прежде, оказывается в центре мужского гардероба. Порой покупатели начинают свое знакомство с новой маркой именно с покупки обуви, и бренды успешно пользуются этим. Однако повторно люди обращаются к тем компаниям, чьему опыту доверяют. Всем известно, что мужчины не склонны к экспериментам в моде. Поэтому, если уж дело доходит до чего-то нового, они предпочитают уже проверенные временем марки. Действительно, где еще покупать ботинки, как не у бренда, который годами поставлял вещи в ваш гардероб?

Например, Alberto Guardiani – один

68: Best Foot Forward

Уверенный шаг вперед

Запросы современных мужчин растут, а вместе с ними растет и мастерство обувающих их брендов, - рассказывает Ханна Льюис

На весенних показах мужской одежды было невозможно не заметить намечающийся тренд: артистичную обувь.

Dolce & Gabbana украсил эспадрильи яркими принтами в средневековом стиле – точно такими же, как на брюках и

глаза эксцентричность из исключения превращается в норму.

И пусть классический итальянский стиль с его томной сексуальностью по-прежнему актуален. Но теперь он не единственный претендент на подиумное шоу. Появился новый образ женщины – более яркий и изобретательный, чем прежде. И Gucci, Prada и Marni уже осмыслили и воплотили в коллекциях ее неповторимый характер.

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из главных итальянских обувщиков, в его ассортименте множество находок для храброго дэнди. В их числе – удобные туфли из замши и кожи камуфляжной расцветки и кобальтовые тканные ботинки с плоской подошвой.

Конечно, эти модели подойдут далеко не каждому. Однако эта потребность в новом подходе к мужской обуви – не просто скоротечный подиумный тренд. Каждый мужчина непременно должен иметь в своем арсенале по меньшей мере одну необычную пару. Если вы склоняетесь в пользу классики, то стоит обратить внимание на обувь, выполненную по мерке или полностью на заказ. Семейная компания Fratelli Rossetti уже более 60 лет остается в бизнесе, благодаря особому вниманию к деталям. Неудивительно, что марка мгновенно отреагировала на спрос на обвувь, в которой была бы видна индивидуальность ее владельца.

Услуга создания обуви по индивидуальному заказу – наиболее яркий тому пример. Только во флагманском

магазине бренда на Via Montenapoleone клиенты могут заказать обувь Fratelli Rossetti, созданную в единственном экземпляре. На протяжении всего процесса: от первой встречи до конечного результата, каждого покупателя сопровождает один из мастеров компании. Плодом этого сотрудничества становятся туфли, с личной монограммой и идеальной посадкой. Эта серия состоит из 20 моделей, которые можно пошить в разных цветах и из самых дорогих материалов Fratelli Rossetti – от редкой телячьей кожи до игуаны и крокодила. Кроме того, недавно компания представила услугу полностью заказной обуви. Это значит, что покупатели могут выразить собственное видение одного из классических силуэтов бренда: например, лоаферы Brera, названные так в честь одного из самых артистичных районов Милана. Также в рамках этого сервиса доступна кожа Toledo, которая окрашивается вручную с помощью специальной художественной техники, и это делает каждую пару обуви

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по-настоящему неповторимой. Другие бренды также реагируют на

новый обувной спрос мужчин. В коллекциях Salvatore Ferragamo модель Driver - давний лидер продаж, и поэтому, когда бренд запускал сервис индивидуального заказа, было очевидно: эта модель должна стать основной. Новая услуга доступна во флагманских магазинах компании по всему миру, где мужчины могут придумать собственную версию Driver. Всего предлагается более 100 вариаций для подошвы и других элементов. Завершает парад возможностей персональный подход: с помощью тиснения можно подчеркнуть, что эта пара принадлежит именно вам.

Несмотря на преданность своему наследию, Fratelli Rossetti и Salvatore Ferragamo демонстрируют устойчивый интерес к будущему. Эта способность применять современные подходы и технологии к классическим методам составляет основу их успеха. Лучшая мужская обувь современна и неповторима, но она создана экспертами на основании

знаний, которые передаются через поколения. Особенно важно, что все эти новые вариации и услуги связаны с набирающим обороты трендом, поскольку те клиенты, для которых мода играет существенную роль, готовы рисковать, чтобы открыть новые пути самовыражения через обувь. И разве есть лучший способ сделать это, чем с помощью той обуви, к дизайну которой вы сами приложили руку?

Стильные мужчины больше не довольствуются небольшим выбором, который некогда был им доступен. Теперь они требуют большего от своей обуви. Обувь невозможно заменить чем бы то ни было, поэтому она обязана соответствовать. Десятилетиями ярлык «сделано в Италии» оставался синонимом качества в этом вопросе. Поэтому если вы собираетесь обновить свою обувь, поступите правильно: создайте свою собственную, и сделайте это по-итальянски.

76: Design Queen

Королева дизайна

Дизайнер Патрисия Уркиола – заметная фигура в мире итальянского дизайна интерьеров. Джош Симс поговорил с ней о вдохновении и новациях

Загляните в любой итальянский шоурум интерьерного дизайна или мебели – и уже скоро вы обнаружите лидеров в этой сфере: Bof, B&B Italia, Cassina, Kartell и Alessi – это только некоторые из них. Причем многие по-прежнему остаются независимыми или семейными предприятиями: они продолжают работать с покупателями, раздвигая границы привычного и совершенствуя производственные методы. И именно таким образом они сумели войти в самые красивые дома мира.

Все чаще эти признанные интерьерные компании обращаются к Патрисии Уркиоле за сотрудничеством. Испанка по происхождению, Уркиола развивала свой талант под руководством ведущих дизайнеров Италии Вико Маджистретти, Акилла Кастильони и Пьеро Лиссони.

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Сейчас Уркиола живет и работает в Милане: 15 лет назад она открыла собственную студию и вскоре стала, пожалуй, самым важным дизайнером своего поколения.

Пока мы с ней разговариваем, она проводит рукой по функциональной, но теплой кухонной мебели, разработанной для Bof. В этом комплекте особенно важна модульная структура, благодаря которой мебель встраивается даже в небольшие пространства: «Смотрите, как это работает», – она берется за ручку похожей на разделочную доску деревянной поверхности и с легкостью раздвигает ее, превращая в столик для завтрака.

Это первый кухонный гарнитур в истории Bof, над которым работает женщина. «Мы очень мужская компания с очень мужской продукцией. Но мы осознавали, что нам нужен более женский подход к материалам и цветам. Кроме того, мы хотели собрать кухню без традиционных шкафов, – так исполнительный директор Bof Роберто Гавацци объясняет свое решение обратиться к Патрисии Уркиоле. – Она прибегает к плавным и изогнутым линиям там, где мы склонны видеть квадратные формы».

Уркиола работает с самыми разными брендами, от Hermès and Salvatore Ferragamo до Driade, Moroso, BMW, Ruinart, Panasonic, Mandarin Oriental и Flos. Соблазнительные, увлекающие, приятные для прикосновений, – все èти характеристики применимы к ее творениям. Их можно называть

женственными в «индустриальном мире» дизайна, как выражается сама Уркиола: «В èтой сфере много мужчин, многие менеджеры, принимающие решения, считают, что им, похоже, нужен мужчина во главе проекта – для надежности, – предполагает Уркиола, размышляя о том, что и женским талантам нужно дать возможность раскрыться. – Я думаю, общество понимает èто, поскольку оно становится все более и более женским в некотором смысле, и более демократичным».

Дом Уркиолы находится прямо над ее офисом. Когда есть возможность, она тестирует прототипы своих разработок на себе – пробуя жить с ними в интерьере. Вероятно, именно поèтому ее проекты столь успешны. Дизайнер считает, что облик

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Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира.Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.

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Контакты:taxfree@globalblue.com+421 232 111 111 Потратьте свыше €154.94 и сэкономьте до 15.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.

130: When You Shop The World,

Shop Tax Free

Совершая покупки по всему миру,

совершайте их с Tax Free

домашних предметов должен постоянно напоминать о чем-то, вызывать ассоциации. Эту идею ей подал друг – шеф-повар Ферран Адрия. Так, офисное кресло 2006 Smock, например, обыгрывает узор сорочки, которую носил первый ребенок Уркиолы. А софа Night & Day для другой итальянской компании Molteni & C создана с учетом того, как люди используют этот предмет мебели: ведь софа – это не выставочный образец, а настоящий центр отдыха, работы и игр. Поэтому Уркиола разработала базовое, но умное решение, где в зависимости от потребностей можно менять конфигурацию подушек, подлокотников, корзин, ящиков и столиков. «Функциональность, конечно, важна, но ее одной недостаточно. Для меня всегда большое значение имеет ощущения от использования предмета и соединение всех этих направлений. Важны требовательный подход, связь с культурой и понимание общественных процессов. Вам не нужно знать все, что можно знать о стульях, чтобы просто создать стул», – делится дизайнер.

Для Уркиолы сотрудничество с различными компаниями открывает новые творческие возможности, будь то ремесленные техники или производственный процесс. Софа Bend для B&B Italia, например, обита тканью с продвинутым видом пэтчворка и наполнена новаторской мульти-перфорированной пеной. Преимущество этой пены в том, что она легче и экономичнее в расходе, однако сохраняет высокий уровень комфорта. Подушки кресла Husk, также созданного для B&B Italia, полностью снимаются и

взаимозаменяются, что облегчает чистку и ремонт (например, в случае повреждения ножек).

«Я любопытна, – говорит она о своей склонности доводить любую вещь до идеального состояния. – Когда я работаю над определенным проектом, то это все, что я делаю, и все, о чем я думаю. А еще я люблю ломать стереотипы, включая свои собственные. Ведь чтобы двигаться вперед, нужно выйти из зоны комфорта».

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美文翻译

60: Italy’s New Woman

意大利新女性

米兰时装周的舞台上，意大利品牌标志性的传统

设计正在被更前卫、更富个性的风格取代，Beth

Druce为您娓娓道来

时尚总是千变万化。有时，时尚的变化微妙细小而

难以定位，例如楔形后跟缓缓退出舞台，又或紧身

瘦腿牛仔裤成为明日黄花；有时，时尚的转变却快

速而凶猛——古驰（Gucci）前两季的表现便是最

好的诠释。

独具慧眼和胆识的新任创意总监Alessandro

Michele上任后，优雅性感、风情无限的古驰女装便

迎来了古灵精怪、多姿多彩和卡通化的风格转变。如

今，“古驰”即意味着印花丝绸、彩色蕾丝、编织长裙

与披肩、蝴蝶结、多色系的卢勒克斯金属丝和霓虹色

透明雪纺。错视画派风格的纽扣、腰带、领结堪称点

睛之笔，加以绚丽多姿的珠子和亮片的点缀，分外惹

人喜爱。“这是一场真真正正的，过去与未来之间的

碰撞，”Michele在接受《纽约时报》的采访时说道。

在一定程度上，这也解释了看似违和的元素搭配何

以能够成功表达这个季节的鲜明特色。

古驰当季服装系列的核心设计理念是“极客时

尚”风格。在系列新品的设计当中，闪闪发光的大号

眼镜、编织手套、襟花和悬于腕间的短款手提包颇

受青睐。不过，古驰的传统设计元素仍然处处可见，

例如服装的腰部或下摆部分就别出心裁地点缀着品

牌标志性的红绿条纹；还有金光闪闪的联锁双“G”

标志，尽管近年来的标志更具复古风格，不如过往那

么闪耀明快。

Vogue Runway杂志的首席评论家、Gucci by

Gucci一书的作者Sarah Mower认为，Gucci设计

焦点的转变远不仅与这家时尚大牌的设计团队有

关。“Alessandro Michele上任以来，古驰改头换

面的速度之快令人惊异不已，” Mower说道。“我认

为，Alessandro Michele引导着时尚界对新鲜、温

暖、人性化和中庸感的追求。”

Michele为古驰带来的颠覆性变革正符合时

尚的潮流，而初次被Gucci采用的的古怪风格已经

成为了米兰时装周上的一条主线。设计师Miuccia

Prada一直以来就是以怪诞的设计而闻名时尚界；

正当其他品牌初涉古怪风格的时候，Prada早已对

这门艺术驾轻就熟。本季度，Prada推出了一款20 PH

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68: Best Foot Forward

最佳跨越

摩登男士欲借助鞋履表达更多自我，意大利领军品

牌已先行一步，Hannah Lewis报道

在春夏男装秀场上，实验性鞋款表现突出。Dolce &

Gabbana的休闲帆布鞋，印有与长裤及运动衫交相

呼应、同样大胆的中世纪版画风格印花。Gucci则以

花卉图案、果敢配色与天鹅绒面料装点足部，并为

脚踝处添上锋利铆钉。当Bottega Veneta创造出令

人意想不到的袜子配凉鞋潮流，Emporio Armani

的正装鞋款，则以佩斯利印花搭配高台粗跟鞋底。

男士的衣橱变得越来越不严肃，诸如领带之类

不再是日常生活的必需品，从而为鞋履让出更多衣

橱空间。虽说成衣品牌纷纷成功借助鞋履的力量赢

得客户——鞋子或许是顾客从某个品牌购买的第一

件单品，而那些专业制鞋品牌才是人们会反复回头

光顾的商家。

在穿衣打扮方面，男性从来是出了名的保守；

当准备去接受一些与众不同的事物时，他们信赖的

往往是那些久经考验的名字：要购买独特个性的鞋

履，还有比自己经常光顾选购奢华基本款的品牌那

里更适合的地点吗？譬如，Alberto Guardiani是

意大利最负盛名的专业鞋履品牌之一，亦越来越

迎合大胆着装男性的口味，为他们奉上麂皮迷彩与

世纪60年代风格的直筒西装外套，以银色条纹、粗

花呢和格子呢为饰，再衬以淡色薄纱。系列新品还

包括饰有深色几何色块的针织衫、悬于膝盖和小腿

之间的下摆，以及真皮保龄球包和大号耳饰等众多

精致配饰；而其中最精美的单品，莫过于头颈周围

的网状薄纱。

对于Marni这个品牌来说，配饰与服装皆匠心独

运，异乎寻常的细节俯拾即是。当季新品采用醒目的

原色底布，其上不仅有烟粉与珠绿色争奇斗艳，更有

自由图案与几何线条完美交融，图案与色彩中皆见

反差。凭借超大号的真皮手提包、有机玻璃垂坠耳环

和方头粗带平底凉鞋，设计师Consuelo Castiglioni

再次证明了自己顶级左派时装设计师的地位。

伴随着古驰的高调转型和Marni等品牌的创新

设计，意大利时尚界被推上风口浪尖，而天马行空的

试验性倾向尤其激动人心。毫无疑问，米兰设计潮

流的转变正吸引着越来越多的目光。怪诞的时装风

格不再被视为异类，反而逐渐成为常态。

这并不意味着风情万种、绝代风华的意大利女

性从此离开时尚的舞台，不过她们再也不是T台上的

唯一主角了。新新女性已经诞生，她们更前卫大胆、

更古灵精怪，而Gucci、Prada和Marni等品牌将帮

助她们尽情展现魅力。

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斑马纹小马皮驾驶鞋，及钴蓝色编织厚平底鞋之类

的选择。

这些风格或许并不适合每个人，但男鞋界对

于创新的需求并不只是一阵短暂的秀场风潮而

已——每位男士都至少应该拥有一双出挑鞋履。对

于那些希望超越经典、展示个性的人而言，私人定

制与按需定制是适合他们的方向。

在Fratelli Rossetti，卓越工艺是亘古不变的重心。在过去60多年以来，这间家族企业始终走在制

鞋业的前列，所以自然而然地，其团队迅速响应男

士鞋履向个性化发展的诉求。以定制服务为例。品

牌位于Montenapoleone大街的旗舰店，独家为顾

客们提供定制奢华Fratelli Rossetti鞋款的服务。在定制全过程中，品牌会为每名客人分派一名品牌

的资深工匠，负责从最初的预约到最终成品的交付，

旨在为客人打造真正度身定制、完美合衬的鞋履，

主人的姓名也会被手工书写于鞋内足跟垫上。

量身定制服务涵盖20多种款式，采用Fratelli

Rossetti最为奢华的皮料系列——从珍稀小牛皮到

鬣蜥与鳄鱼皮——以及丰富的色彩选择。品牌最近

还推出了按需定制服务，顾客们可以打造拥有个性

化特征的品牌经典款式，包括Brera船鞋，这款单品

以米兰最具艺术气息的地区命名。定制服务还包括

Fratelli Rossetti的Toledo皮革，以手工绘制技术

打造，使得每双鞋都奢华且独特。

并非只有Fratelli Rossetti意识到男性对鞋履需求的转变。在Salvatore Ferragamo，Driver驾驶鞋向来

是最畅销的，所以当品牌为顾客推出定制服务，这款单

品显而易见位列其中。在全球指定旗舰店中，男士们可

以定制属于自己的Driver鞋款。有超过100种的鞋面、

鞋底与五金配件可供选择，色彩与材质的丰富程度同样

可观。该服务还有一道个性笔触：即提供刻字服务，让

你真正在鞋履上留下个性标记。

Fratelli Rossetti与Salvatore Ferragamo虽是传

统品牌，但他们已将目光坚定地投向未来；正是这种将

传统技艺与当代手法和科技相结合的能力，让上述品

牌如此成功。最佳男性鞋履应当是摩登且别致的，同时

由工匠们使用代代相传的经典工艺打造。重要的是，随

着具备时尚头脑的顾客们更愿意大胆尝试，并试图通

过鞋履表达自己的个性风格，这些新风格与新服务在男

士鞋履界呈现增长趋势。还有什么方式比参与设计自己

的鞋履更能表达自我吗？

时尚男士们不再满足于过往狭小的选择范围，他们

越发想要从鞋履中获得更多。鞋子不再被认为是人们

因为要出门而不得不穿戴的配件。几十年以来，“意大利

制造”的标签是鞋履世界品质的代名词，所以如果你

想要改变，就恰如其分地改变：按个性定制，并选择意

大利品牌。

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76: Design Queen

设计皇后

才华横溢的设计师Patricia Urquiola在意大利室内

设计界掀起阵阵波澜。她与Josh Sims畅谈创作灵感

与创新来源

参观意大利任何一间室内设计或家具陈列厅，一串

业内领先的名字会立刻跃入眼帘：例如Bof、B&B

Italia、Cassina、Kartell与Alessi等。其中很多仍是

独立或家族品牌，以突破造型与制造工艺的边界而

享有盛名。这些家喻户晓的名字，出现在全球最时髦

的房屋中。

一名女性，Patricia Urquiola，越来越多地投

身于为上述品牌发展概念的工作中。她出生于西班

牙，在意大利接受培训，与一批该国最顶尖的设计

师并肩工作，其中包括Vico Magistretti、 Achille

Castiglioni与Piero Lissoni。Urquiola在米兰生活

与工作；15年前她成立了自己的设计工作室，或许可

称为同辈中最重要的设计师。

当我们见面时，她将手放置于自己为Bof品牌

设计的、功能性十足但触感温融的厨房表面上，指出

这一设计具有模块化特征，使其特别适用于狭小空

间。“你看这个，”她突然抓住砧板式样的木质橱柜顶

部，将其翻出变成一张早餐桌。

这是第一次由女性来设计Bof厨房。“我们是

极度男性化的公司，制造非常男性化的产品，但我们

想在材质与色彩演绎手法中加入更多女性元素，构

建起一个没有传统橱柜的厨房，”Bof的首席执行官

Roberto Gavazzi解释为何会聘请Urquiola。“她在

我们多数会使用方形设计的地方，都使用了曲线。”

流线、细腻、俏皮：人们用这些形容词来

评价Urquiola为庞大客户群体设计的作品，从

爱马仕（Hermès）与Salvatore Ferragamo到

Driade、Moroso、宝马（BMW）、Ruinart、松下

（Panasonic）、东方文华（Mandarin Oriental）与

Flos。这些特征或许可被视为Urquiola口中“工业世

界”设计中的女性化特质。“有许多男人，许多决策

经理认为需要由男性来领导项目，赋予其公信力，”

Urquiola表示，她认为应当为女性的才能留出发展

空间。“我觉得社会已经开始理解这点，并且在某些

方面变得越发女性化、民主化。”

Urquiola的设计成功秘诀，是永远准备充分，她

会在任何可能条件下，与自己设计的模型共处一室，

在使用中完善它们（她的家就在办公室楼上）。她认

为每件设计都需要让人们有亲切感，这一观点来自

于她的朋友，厨师Ferran Adrià。以她在2006年推

出的Smock办公室椅为例，就是以她第一个孩子的

宝宝睡袋为灵感。她为另一间意大利公司Molteni & PH

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C设计的Night & Day沙发，充分考虑人们对沙发的

使用习惯，使其不只是一件摆设，而是人们休憩、工

作与娱乐的交互枢纽。她选用了基本但巧妙的结构，

沙发上的靠垫可以转变为扶手、置物篮、存储单元甚

至可以偶尔当成桌子用。

“功能性当然重要，但这是不够的。对我而言，

更关注人们使用家具的体验以及如何将其结合到产

品中。我们必须采取批判的态度，与本土文化相连

接，并融入自己对社会发展的体察。如果要设计一张

椅子，你并不需要知道关于椅子的一切。”

Urquiola同样对与公司合作探索新方法兴趣盎

然，无论是一种新制作工艺还是一项新工业流程。以

一款为B&B Italia设计的沙发Bend为例，设计师在

外罩设计上采用了巧妙的格纹编织，并使用具有开

创性的多孔发泡填充材质，与标准发泡素材一样柔

软但重量更轻，并可节省原料。她为B&B Italia设计

的一款椅子Husk，则使用了可拆卸及清洗的缓冲系

统，这款椅子的每一个部分都可被拆卸或替换，譬

如当某条腿损坏的时候。

“我只是好奇，”关于自己将设计推进到极致完

美的偏执，她如此形容。“当我设计一件作品时，是

全神贯注的，它占据了我脑中所想的一切。我乐于打

破偏见，包括自己的固有陈见。就像艺术家一样，想

要有所突破就必须走出自己的安全地带。”

当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时，

环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free

Shopping）为您节约购物开销。

每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global

Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只

是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联

（Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税

过程：

1. 消费购物

无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格

（Global Blue Tax Free Form）。

2. 申请退税

当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台

请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联

退税点领取您的退税款。

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130: When You Shop The World,

Shop Tax Free

畅购全球，尊享退税

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日本語翻訳

60: Italy’s New Woman

イタリアの新たな女性像

ミラノのキャットウォークでは、イタリアンレーベル

に特徴的なグラマラスなスタイルに代わって大胆で

個性あるスタイルが登場している。ベス・ドゥルース

がレポートする。

ファッションに変化は付きものだ。変化はウェッジヒ

ールが徐々に見られなくなり、スキニージーンズが知

らぬ間に姿を消したように、微妙で正確に表現しに

くい場合がある。一方、急激に容赦なく変わる場合

もあり、グッチでここ2シーズンほど見られるのはま

さにこの手の変化だ。

アレッサンドロ・ミケーレが同ブランドの大胆な

新ビジョンを掲げてクリエイティブディレクターに就

任して以来、洗練された官能とインパクトの強い魅

力を持ったグッチの女性像は、一風変わったカラフ

ルで漫画チックな女性像に取って代わられている。

今のグッチはプリントシルクやカラーレース、クロシ

ェット編みのスカートやケープ、リボン、多彩なルレ

ックス（ラメ用の糸）、ネオンカラーの透明シフォン

が代表的なイメージになっている。服にはカラフル

で遊び心あふれるビーズやシークインで実物のよう

な錯覚を覚えるトロンプルイユのボタンやベルト、

リボンをあしらうといった心憎いテクニックも使われ

ている。「まさしく過去と未来のそうした矛盾がテー

マ」だとミケーレはニューヨーク・タイムズ紙に語っ

ているが、そう考えれば、本来なら不協和音を醸す

ようなルックスを組み合わせたコレクションが今シ

ーズン最強のメッセージをうまく伝えていることもあ

る程度納得がいく。

現コレクションならではの魅力は「ギークシッ

ク」なスタイリングだ。このスタイルでは、華麗な特

大メガネやクロシェット編みの手袋、コサージュ、手

首に下げる持ち手の短いハンドバッグなどを好んで

使っている。一方で、特徴的な赤と緑のストライプを

ウエストや裾に効果的に使うなど昔ながらのグッチ

らしさも見られ、金色のGの字を絡ませたモチーフ

も、従来より艶を抑えて使い込んだ感じを出してい

るとはいえ健在だ。

「ヴォーグ・ランウェイ」サイトでチーフ評論家

を務め、『グッチ・バイ・グッチ』の著者でもあるサ

ラ・モウワーにとって、こうしたフォーカスの移り変わ

りはグッチブランドのデザイン実績を超えた意味を

持つ。「アレッサンドロ・ミケーレが着任して以来、グ

ッチの抜本的見直しと刷新が驚くべきスピードで進

んでいます」と、モウワーは説明する。「ファッション

が追い求める斬新さと温かみ、折衷的な感性にか

けては、彼は他の先を行っていると思います。」

ミケーレは時代の感性に応えてグッチを刷新し

てきたが、同レーベルが新たに取り入れたエキセン

トリックさを好感する声は、ミラノのキャットウォー

クに共通して聞かれた。デザイナーのミウッチヤ・プ

ラダは昔から一風変わったデザインで知られ、奇想

天外なスタイルの世界に他者が初めて進出してきて

いる中で、プラダのこの美学の取り入れ方は堂に入

っている。プラダでは今シーズン、四角張った1960

年代スタイルのスーツジャケットをシルバーのストラ

イプやツイード、タータンで飾り、パステル色のガー

ゼを重ねている。濃い色の無地ブロックを幾何学模

様に配したニットや、膝とふくらはぎの中間で揺れる

+421 232 111 111

消费超过€154.94即可节约高达购买价格15.5%的金

额。请注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣

除管理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位

收取现金退税手续费。

149

裾、革製のボウリングバッグや巨大な飾り玉のイヤリ

ングといった目を引くアクセサリーの数々もある。中

でも最注目のアイテムは、首回りをドレープ状に包む

網のようなベールだ。

マルニは、服はもちろんアクセサリーにも意味を

持たせるブランドで、風変わりなディテールはこのレ

ーベルの本質の一部でもある。今シーズンは、大胆

な原色にアクセントとしてダスキーピンクやジェイド

グリーンを加えたカラーパレットを基調として、緩や

かな形と幾何学的な線を対照的なプリントや色で

組み合わせたコレクションとなっている。特大の革製

「サック」ハンドバッグに、ブラブラ揺れるアクリル

樹脂のイヤリング、太めのストラップがついたスクエ

アトウサンダルなど、同レーベルデザイナーのコンス

エロ・カスティリオーニが意表を突くファッションデ

ザインの名手であることを改めて印象付けている。

グッチで大々的な変化が起こり、マルニなどのレ

ーベルも大胆なタッチを見せるイタリアンファッショ

ンは今や注目の的であり、特にその実験的な新傾向

にはワクワク感がある。明らかなのは、ミラノで見ら

れたデザインフォーカスの移り変わりには抗しがた

い魅力があって、その魅力がますます大きくなってい

るということ。そして、風変わりで奇抜な装いが例外

ではなく、むしろ標準になりつつあるということだ。

洗練されたセクシーなイタリア女性の理想像が

永遠に消滅したわけではないだろうが、もはやキャッ

トウォークを独占する存在ではなくなっている。大

胆でそれまでより遊び心豊かな新たな女性のコンセ

プトが生まれ、グッチやプラダ、マルニはその精神を

とらえ、称えている。

68: Best Foot Forward

高級紳士靴のニューエージ

現代の男性は靴にもこだわる。そのニーズに応える

イタリアの有名ブランドを、ハンナ・ルイスがレポー

トする。

春夏メンズウェアのキャットウォークでは、実験的

な靴が際立っていた。ドルチェ＆ガッバーナでは、

globalblue.com

150

ポニースキンで作ったドライビングシューズ、コバル

トブルーの編地プラットフォームなど、装いの勇者向

けの製品を増やしてきている。

こうしたスタイルは誰にでも履きこなせるもので

はないが、紳士靴の世界における新しさの追求はキ

ャットウォーク上の束の間の流行に止まらない。どん

な男性でも、際立つ靴を一足は持ちたいものだ。ク

ラシック志向のスタイルが好みなら、誂えやオーダー

メードがいいだろう。

フラテッリ・ロセッティは、優れた職人技を何よ

り大事にしている。60年以上にわたり家族経営して

きた同社は靴作りの先導者。メンズフットウェアに

個性を求める声への対応が素早かったのも、不思議

ではない。例えば誂えサービスだ。モンテナポレオ

ーネ通りにある同ブランドの旗艦店で専門に取り扱

うこのサービスのおかげで、クライアントは自分の

ためだけに作られたフラテッリ・ロセッティの高級

靴を手にできる。各クライアントを同ブランドの名

工の一人が受け持ち、初回アポから最終製品の納

品まで全プロセスを担当するため、ぴたりとフィット

する真の誂え靴に仕上がる。持ち主の名前を内側

かかと部分のクッションに手描きで入れてくれるの

も特徴だ。

カジュアルなエスパドリーユがズボンやスウェット

シャツと同じ大胆な中世柄プリントで登場。グッチ

は花柄や大胆な色彩、触感豊かなベルベットで足

元を飾り、足首部分にスパイクのついた靴も披露し

た。ボッテガ・ヴェネタではソックスにサンダル履き

という意外なトレンドを発信したし、エンポリオ・ア

ルマーニのドレスシューズはがっちりしたカットアウ

トの靴底にペイズリー柄プリントのアッパーという組

み合わせだった。

ワードローブはフォーマル度が低くなって、ネク

タイの類はもはや毎日必要なものではなくなり、男

性の装いは靴が鍵になってきている。既製服ブラン

ドはこの靴の引力をうまく活かしている。今まで試し

たことのないレーベルを試す人はまず靴あたりから

入るのではということだろうが、消費者が頼りにする

のはやはり専門店だ。

男性はファッションで実験することには消極

的だとよく言われ、何か少し変わった物が欲しい時

も、定評のある銘柄を好む。ステートメントとしての

靴を買うのに、高級な定番商品を長年愛用してきた

レーベルより適した店があるだろうか。例えば、アル

ベルト・ガルディアーニはイタリア随一の靴専門店

だが、スエードのカモフラージュやゼブラプリントの

151

この誂え靴は型が約20種あり、カーフスキンか

らイグアナ、クロコダイルまで、フラテッリ・ロセッテ

ィの最高級素材が選べ、色の選択肢も多数ある。

同ブランドでは最近オーダーメードサービスも始め

た。顧客は、ミラノでも特に芸術の香り豊かな地区

にちなんで名づけられた「ブレラ」ローファーなど同

ブランドのクラシックなスタイルを基本に、自分の

個性を反映させた靴を作ることができる。このサー

ビスは拡大され、フラテッリ・ロセッティの「トレド」

レザーも対象になっている。職人が技を駆使して

手描きする高級かつユニークな製品だ。

男性が靴に求めるものが変化したことを認識し

ているのは、フラテッリ・ロセッティだけではない。

サルヴァトーレ・フェラガモでは、ドライビングシュ

ーズ「ドライバー」がベストセラーの常連で、同レー

ベルでオーダーメードサービスを始めた時もこのス

タイルを対象に含めるべきなのは明らかだった。世

界中の旗艦店で受け付けているこのサービスを使

えば、自分バージョンのドライバーが手に入る。甲

革、底、ハードウェア（鳩目、バックルなど）のバリ

エーションは100種以上で、色も素材もとびきり素

晴らしいものを揃えている。仕上げに、もう一つパー

ソナルなサービスとして名入れがある。そうして本当

に「自分の」靴になるわけだ。

フラテッリ・ロセッティもサルヴァトーレ・フェラ

ガモも老舗ブランドだが、共に将来にしっかり目を

据えている。このように伝統的手法を土台にしつつ

現代的な考え方をしテクノロジーを駆使できること

こそが、大成功の秘訣だ。出来る男の靴は現代的

で個性的、それでいて何世代にもわたって受け継

がれてきた知識を持つ玄人が丹精込めて作るもの

だ。そして何より大事なのは、こうした新たなスタイ

ルやサービスが、ファッションに敏感なクライアン

トがリスクを冒し、自分なりのスタイルを靴を通じ

て表現しようとするメンズフットウェアのトレンドの

強まりを意識したものだということ。自己表現なら、

デザインに一役買うことほど素敵な手段があるだろ

うか。

従来の狭い選択肢にはもはや満足できないス

タイリッシュな男たちは、靴にもこだわるようになっ

ている。靴を決しておざなりにしない。何しろ靴は

付けずに外出することのない唯一のアクセサリーな

のだから。靴の世界では「メイド・イン・イタリア」が

何十年も昔から品質本位の代名詞だった。だから

何をするにも中途半端はいけない。とことんこだわ

って自分のものにしよう。それでこそイタリア産だ。

globalblue.com

152

76: Design Queen

デザイン・クイーン

イタリアンインテリアデザインの世界に波乱を巻き

起こしている有能デザイナーのパトリシア・ウルキオ

ラが、インスピレーションとイノベーションについて

ジョッシュ・シムズに語った。

イタリアでインテリアデザインや家具のショールー

ムを巡れば、業界をリードする名前のオンパレード。

ボッフィ、B&Bイタリア、カッシーナ、カルテル、アレ

ッシィなどはそのごく一部だ。多くは今でも独立系や

家族経営の企業だが、形だけでなく製造手法にお

いても限界を押し広げることで知られ、世界でも洗

練を極めた家ではお馴染みのブランドだ。

そうしたインテリアブランドのためのアイデア開

発で、目覚ましい活躍を見せる一人の女性がいる。

パトリシア・ウルキオラだ。スペイン生まれだが修行

したのはイタリアで、先輩や同輩にはヴィコ・マジス

トレッティ、アッキーレ・カスティリオーニ、ピエロ・リ

ッソーニといったイタリア有数のデザイナーがいる。

ウルキオラの生活と仕事の場はミラノだ。15年前に

デザインスタジオを立ち上げた彼女は、同世代随一

の重要デザイナーと言っていいだろう。

インタビューでは、自身がボッフィのためにデザ

インしたキッチンの機能的ながら温かみのある表面

を手で撫でながら、デザインにモジュール性があっ

て狭いスペースに適しているとを指摘した。かと思え

ば突然「これを見て！」とまな板スタイルの木製カウ

ンタートップをつかんだ。引き出すと、カウンターは

ブレックファストテーブルに早変わり。

これは、女性がボッフィのためにデザインした初

のキッチンだ。「うちはとても男っぽい会社で、製品

も極めて男性的なんですが、素材や色彩に対するア

プローチにもっと女性的な要素が必要だと感じてい

ました。ありきたりの従来型キャビネットを使わずキ

ッチンを構成できればと思っていたのです」と、ボッ

フィのCEOロベルト・ガヴァッツィはウルキオラの

起用を決めた理由を説明する。「通常なら四角を使

ってしまいがちなところに、彼女は曲線を使うんで

す。」

曲線美、触感、遊び心 ― これらはいずれも、

エルメス、サルヴァトーレ・フェラガモ、ドリアデ、モ

ローゾ、BMW、ルイナール、パナソニック、マンダリ

ンオリエンタル、フロスまで幅広いクライアント向け

にウルキオラがデザインした作品の記述に使われて

きた言葉だ。彼女がいう「産業デザインの世界」で

は女性らしい特徴と見られ得る。「男性が多いんで

す。意思決定する管理者も男性が多くて、おそらく

信頼性あるプロジェクトにするには男が表に立たな

くては駄目だと感じているんでしょうね」と話すウルキオ

ラは、女性の才能が花開くようにスペースを与えるべき

だと続けた。「社会はそのことをわかっていると思いま

す。ある面では女性的になってきていますし、民主化が

進んでいますから。」

ウルキオラのデザインが成功しているのはおそらく、

試作品を改良し完成させる過程で自分で実際に使って

みることを厭わないからだろう（オフィス上階に自宅があ

る）。一つ一つのデザインが親しみの持てるものでなけ

ればならないと、彼女はいう。友人のシェフ、フェラン・ア

ドリアから得たアイデアだ。例えば、2006年の作品「ス

モック」オフィスチェアには、自分の第一子が赤ん坊だ

った頃に着ていたスモックのデザインが盛り込まれてい

る。同じくイタリア企業のモルテー二のためにデザインし

た「ナイト&デイ」ソファーは、ソファーの使われ方を把

握した上で、つまり見て楽しむのでなく休んだり仕事した

153

130: When You Shop The World,

Shop Tax Free

海外でのお買い物が免税に

グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利

用いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街

にある27万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物がお得

になります。

年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブルー

の免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用ください。

手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探し

ます。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グローバル・

ブルー？」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のステップ

を踏むだけです。

1. お買い物

お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免

税書類（タックスフリー・フォーム）を受け取ってくだ

さい。

2.還付請求

ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関で免税書類にス

タンプを押してもらってから、グローバル・ブルーの

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お問い合わせ：

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+421 232 111 111

€154.94を超えるお買い物をすれば、購入価格の

最高15.5％の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払

い戻し額は、付加価値税（VAT）合計から事務手

数料を差し引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了

承ください。一部の空港で現金での即時払い戻しを

ご希望の場合は、現金取り扱い手数料が免税書類

ごとに課されます。

り遊んだりするアイランド型ハブとしてデザインされ

ている。デザインはベーシックだが優れた構造で、ク

ッションの並べ方次第でアームレスト、バスケット、

収納ユニット、場合によってはテーブルにもなる。

「機能性はもちろん重要ですが、それだけでは

十分ではありません。私にとって大事なのは生活シ

ーン。それを一つの製品として形にしていくのです。

批判的な態度で関連文化を結び付けていく作業

で、社会がどう進化しているのかを感じ取ることが

大事です。椅子のデザインは、椅子について知り得

ること全てを知らなきゃできないわけではないんで

す。」

ウルキオラは、企業と共同で新たな家具作りの

方法（手仕事の技であろうが工業プロセスであろう

が）を模索することにも、等しく興味を持っている。

例えば、B&Bイタリアのためにデザインした「ベン

ド」というソファは、カバーに巧みなパッチワーク形

を用いているが、インナーはこのために開発された画

期的な多孔質発泡体で、快適さは標準的な発泡体と

変わらないのに軽く、使用材料が少なくて済む。同じ

くB&Bイタリアの「ハスク」チェアは取り外し自由で

洗濯可能なクッションシステムになっており、デザイ

ンの構成要素の一つ一つが取り外し・交換可能なの

で足が壊れたりしても大丈夫だ。

何事もちょうどよくなるまで追求し続けるこだわ

りを、「好奇心があるだけ」だという彼女。「一つ事を

始めるとのめりこんで、それしか考えなくなるんです。

それに、固定観念を打ち破るのが好きなんです。自分

自身のも含めて。アーティストと同じで、前進するには

ぬるま湯から出なくちゃね。」

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154 | PRODUCTS

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