Issue 4 August – September 2011

Restricted-circulation magazine dedicated to wine lovers and the wine trade

Sommelier INDIA

For Indians around the world who enjoy the good life

VISIT BORDEAUX

NOW

44TERROIR TRUTHS 52

PRODUCTS FOR WINE LOVERS 68

DRINKING HISTORY WITH DHRUV SAWHNEY 32

SUPERMAN SOMMELIERS 22

ON THE GRAPEVINE4-9 NEWS, NOTES & VIEWS

COLUMNS10 SAY “WHEE!” TO WINE Jug Suraiya casts his quizzical eye at our habit of serving dinner late

12 GRUAUD!LAROSE TASTED Ch’ng Poh Tiong celebrates180 years of Château Gruaud-Larose

14 SMALL BUT SUPERB Steven Spurrier rates the 2010 vintage of German wines very high

18 THE NAME OF THE ROSÉ Raghu Bahadur on the outlandish names – and label designs – of wines today

20 SOMMELIERS I HAVE KNOWNEven wine experts can be intimidated by bossy sommeliers writes Jancis Robinson

FEATURES22 SOMMELIER PAR EXCELLENCE Carol Wright introduces Gerard Basset, the Best Sommelier in the World

26 SOMMELIER SPEAKInterviewed by Reva K Singh, Kavita Faiella says she loves her job as a sommelier, working in great restaurants 28 RAJAT PARR, SUPERSTARSommelier, author and wine producer, Rajat Parr tells Marisa D’Vari the secret of his success

32 DRINKING HISTORYDhruv Sawhney shares his experience of a Christie’s dinner paired with 19th century wines exclusively with Sommelier India

36 A NEW FRONTIER IN AMERICA’S WESTGaurav Anand tours Washington state and finds a range of pleasing wines

40 THE SANGIOVESE STORY Sommelier India tastes Sangiovese, which today is a far cry from what it once was. Harshal Shah tells the story

44 BORDEAUX REMINISCENCESRonald Rens recounts his early learning experiences in Bordeaux when wine tourism was in its infancy

48 WINE AUCTIONS IN ASIA With the wine auction market taking off in Hong Kong, Brian Freedman reports on the direction in which it is heading

52 THE MANY MEANINGS OF TERROIR Seasoned wine-journalist David Cobbold uncovers some of the mystery around the enigmatic concept of terroir 58 THE PERSONALITY BEHIND THE LABEL Michèle Shah offers an insight into the wealth of character behind some of the wines that we enjoy from Tuscany

64 WINE, SUNSHINE AND SMILES On a visit to Melbourne, Alok Chandra finds lots to be happy about and not least, the quality of Victoria’s food and wine

68 THE TURN OF THE CORKSCREW The humble corkscrew is generally paid scant attention. Eric Asimov gives this indispensible tool its due

70 SCAN, TAP, READ AND SIP Ruma Singh looks at some of the smartphone apps making life simple – and fun – for today’s wine lover

REGULARS/DEPARTMENTS72 CHEF’S TABLE Executive Chef Sandip Narang of the Taj West End, Bangalore, discusses food and wine with Ruma Singh

75 RESTAURANTS FOR WINE LOVERS This issue’s picks: The Table in Mumbai, Pink Poppadom in Bangalore and Baan Tao in Pune

78 WINE CLINICYour wine questions answered

79 GLOSSARY Wine terms used in this issue explained

80 SI DIRECTORY

` 150ContentsAugust-September 2011

40

64

52

Publisher, editor and owner: Reva K Singh. Co-publisher Shiv B Singh. Copy editor: Bunny Suraiya. Executive Assistant: Aienla Ozukum. Creative Director: Peali Dutta Gupta. Design: Shamik Kundu. Layout artist: TMJ. Printed at EIH Ltd. 7, Sham Nath Marg, Delhi - 110054. Sommelier India is a trade bi-monthly privately produced by CMI, Consolidated Media Int, C-320, Defence Colony, New Delhi - 110 024, India. Tel: +91 11 2433 1013. E-mail: info@indianwinemagazine.com. Web: www.sommelierindia.com. For restricted circulation only. The views expressed in this publication are the writers’ own and not necessarily those of the publishers. Subscription price: `1300 two years (12 copies) and `1500 three years (18 copies); international $56 two years (12 copies) and $82 three years (18 copies) without postage. Cover price (single copy) `150.

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Successful business enterpriseAfter having had a good look at some recent issues of Sommelier India, I’m extremely impressed by the high level of excellence that you’ve achieved with the magazine. In my opinion, the magazine is of international quality and stature. The design and layout is top class as is the quality of the paper, the printing and the general get-up. The photographs are absolutely superb. The articles are great.

I am neither an expert on wines nor an authority on rating upmarket magazines, but as a discerning, lay reader, I

wish to compliment you on your efforts.Over the years, each issue of the

magazine has expanded and the number of copies being distributed every month has also grown substantially. These are prime indicators of a successful business enterprise which is continually growing. Your years of hard work are beginning to show and I’m sure the

will also help build the local wine industry and in a modest way provide a boost to tourism in the country.Michael Albuquerque, New Delhi

Team Sommelier India thanks you for your encouraging comments. We have hitched our wagon to a star and there’s still a long way to go. ED

Voting for SII have been a subscriber since inception of Sommelier India and would like to congratulate you on an excellent job. The magazine has evolved into a world class quality publication. You have my vote. Is there any possibility to get a digital iPad version for current subscribers?

Shatul Shah, Sent from my iPad

You will soon be able to download Sommelier India on the iPad. Meanwhile, read the digital version of the June-July 2011edition (available free for subscribers) on your computer. Go to: http://issuu.com/sommelierindia/docs/magazine_for_mail

Courier or Indian Post?Please can you do something about your delivery system, whether courier or post. My copy gets lost sometimes. I don’t know why anyone would want to steal it. It’s not a Bollywood magazine!

Bina Rai, via email

Readers Write

During Bordeaux’s Vinexpo this June, I enjoyed one of my best wine and dine experiences. Traditionally hosted by a First Growth, the dinner held by the Conseil des Grand Crus Classés en 1855 to welcome the international press to Vinexpo was at Château Haut-

Brion this year. And what a grand affair it was. The setting, the people, the Michelin-star food and, of course, the superlative wines defy description. It was a pleasure and a privilege to be seated with so many distinguished members of the wine fraternity as dinner companions. The dinner invitation was from HRH Prince Robert of Luxembourg, the owner of Château Haut-Brion.

The top châteaux in Bordeaux certainly know how to look after their visitors. This black-tie dinner is one of the most prestigious of the many parties held in Bordeaux during Vinexpo. In previous years, there have been celebrations on a similar scale at Château Margaux, Château d’Yquem, Château Mouton Rothschild and, at the last Vinexpo, Château Lafite Rothschild. But such hospitality has not always been the norm. On his first visit to Bordeaux over 25 years ago, Ronald Rens recalls a somewhat frosty welcome (page 44). But wine tourism has come a long way since then, and the time to visit is now.

Dhruv Sawhney, one of the few Indians who can be called a true wine connoisseur and savant, was recently invited to an exclusive dinner with 19th century wines by Christies. “Dhruv, write it down!” I urged, when he told me about the occasion. “This is an experience that must be shared.” I’m happy to say he was finally persuaded. Read his account of this unique, once-in-a-lifetime experience, “Drinking History”, on page 32.

Other highlights of the issue include a special section on sommeliers and a piece on corkscrews by Eric Asimov, the first of regular articles by the popular New York Times wine writer. Now that’s a treat to look forward to …

As I sign off, I hope all Sommelier India readers are saying “whee” to wine! If you don’t know what that means, read Jug Suraiya on page 10. Remember, many a truth is spoken in jest!

Unforgettable wine dinners

Editor’s Note

E-mail: rks@indianwinemagazine.com

2 Sommelier INDIA