SUMMER 2009

THE RESTAURANT ISSUE 2009

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Although he has won national acclaim for his accomplishments in the kitchen, the scope of Alan Wong’s influence extends far beyond his cooking. As of one of the founding members of Hawaii Regional Cuisine, he has forged an international path of recognition for the state’s culinary scene and recently started a series of “Next Generation Dinners” to highlight the menu of up-and-coming chefs who have been mentored by him. As the James Beard award-winning restaurateur celebrates the 10th anniversary of �e Pineapple Room this September, we set out to learn all things Wong. Born in Akasaka, Japan, Wong and his family moved to Hawai‘i when he was five years old. His father, Hank Wong, was in the army; and his mother, Terry Yamamoto, worked as a cook in various Japanese restaurants. He grew up in Waipi‘o where he graduated from Leilehua High School, and in 1978, Wong enrolled in culinary school at Kapi‘olani Community College. It was there that he learned that “bread didn’t just fall out of a bag, and salad dressings came from some place other than a bottle from a market.” When he realized these things, he was hooked, and Chef Alan was born. Ask just about any notable in Hawai‘i’s culinary realm: Colin Hazama, executive chef at RumFire at the Sheraton Waikiki; Jackie Zimmerman, general manager of Troutlodge Marine Farms of Kona;

and James Ebreo, executive sous chef of Hualalai Resort–to name a few–and they each have a memorable “Chef Alan” story to share. All of them speak of a kind, creative visionary who played a major role in shaping Hawai‘i’s image as a top-notch dining destination.

BEEFING IT UP

In 1997, a year before he retired, the late Dr. Cal “Doc” Lum started North Shore Cattle Company as a hobby. “He was Hawai‘i’s state veterinarian for 15 years, and he wanted to raise cattle after he retired,” recalls his widow, Kay. “We leased 1,000 acres of former sugarcane land in ‘Ōpae‘ula, above Hale‘iwa, and brought 20 young cattle over from the Big Island.” By the time the Lums met Alan Wong five years later through marketing consultant and mutual friend, Dan Nakasone, their herd had grown to 100 head, and they were looking for ways to market their beef. Meanwhile, Wong was seeking a reliable source for all-natural, grass-fed local beef that contained health-promoting Omega-3 fatty acids, less saturated fat and more HDL or “good” cholesterol. “We’d been selling ground beef at the Aloha Stadium swap meet for $1.15 per pound,” Lum says. “We were thrilled when Alan said he’d like to feature our beef in his restaurant.” But it wasn’t an instant success. Even though grass-fed beef has a richer

�e A-listCeleb chef Alan Wong’s closest pals tell us why it’s right to be Wong

| By Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi | Photography by Damon Kidwell |

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THE WONG CROWD Chef Alan is pictured with a few devoted friends at Lihiwai in Nu‘uanu From

left: Jackie Zimmerman, general manager of Troutlodge Marine Farms of Kona; James Ebrero,

executive sous chef of Hualalai Resort; Alan Wong; Ryan Lum, North Shore Cattle Company;

Elmer Guzman, chef/owner of Poke Stop; Colin Hazama, executive chef at RumFire at the

Sheraton Waikiki; and Lorie Obra, president of Rusty’s Hawaiian 100% Ka‘u Coffee.

Oyama recalls, “...Ingredients, flavors, presentations,

cleanliness–everything had to be top quality.

Sometimes we thought, ‘Who is this madman?!’”

Summer 2009 | | 39

flavor, guests deemed it too tough and sent their plates back to the kitchen. “Aging meat breaks down tissue, which tenderizes it,” Lum explains. “We were aging our beef for two weeks, and Alan said to try three. At three weeks, some plates were still coming back, so he said to try four weeks. �at was the magic number.” Lum is grateful for Wong’s support. “He could’ve said, ‘Sorry, this isn’t working for me,’ but he stuck with us; he was willing to help us come up with a product that was marketable.” When her husband passed away in January, Lum decided to keep running North Shore Cattle Company with her son Ryan and his son, Ikaika. Retail outlets for their beef include the weekly farmers’ markets in Hale‘iwa, Kailua and Kapi‘olani Community College. “Alan is an innovator who says, ‘Don’t just think about what you have; think about what you can do,’” Lum says. “He told us to never sell ourselves short. Our beef now retails for $5.85 to $17.65 per pound, and customers don’t bat an eye.” WAKE UP AND SMELL THE (KA‘U) COFFEELorie Obra wants to put Ka‘ū coffee on the map. “Kona coffee has a nearly 200-year head start as far as name recognition goes,” she says, “but the coffee we’re producing in Ka‘ū is just as good.” Obra is the president of the Ka‘ū Coffee Growers Cooperative and the owner of Rusty’s Hawaiian 100% Ka‘ū Coffee, which refers to both her farm and retail brand. “Rusty” is the nickname of her late husband, Restituto, who began planting coffee on 12 acres near Pāhala in 1999. �e couple moved from New Jersey to Hawai‘i Island in 2000 to farm coffee after they retired–he as a chemist, she as a medical technologist. Although they had no prior knowledge about coffee production or processing, the Obras gave their all to their new endeavor. Sadly, Rusty passed away in 2006 before seeing the fruits of his labor, but Obra decided to keep operating the farm–one of the few in Ka‘ū that has full processing capabilities. “�e first time I met Alan was in June 2007 when he visited Ka‘ū,” Obra recalls. “I had sent him samples before he came. He liked them and he was going to serve my coffee in his restaurant.” She appreciates the fact that Wong doesn’t just buy products; he makes an effort to meet and get to know the dedicated growers behind the scenes. “He’s very generous in associating his famous name with undiscovered, hard-working people like me, so we will benefit,” Obra says. “�at makes me work even harder to keep up the quality of my coffee. I don’t want to disappoint him because I know he believes in me and what I do.” Since Rusty’s Hawaiian 100% Ka‘ū Coffee appeared on the menu at Alan Wong’s Honolulu, Obra has enjoyed increased sales, partly through a steady stream of mail orders from Wong’s discriminating clientele. Rusty hoped one day to see Ka‘ū coffee recognized by gourmets as among the best in the world. “I want to fulfill my husband’s dream,” Obra says. “With Alan’s guidance and encouragement, I know it can be done.”

GUIDING LIGHTElmer Guzman was just 19 years old in 1990, when executive chef Alan Wong hired him to work at the CanoeHouse, the Mauna Lani Bay Hotel and Bungalows’ signature restaurant. “I only had two years at Kapi‘olani Community College’s culinary school under my belt,” Guzman recalls, “but Chef Alan threw me on the hot line with his ace people. Looking back, I realize that was a real honor!” Guzman worked at the CanoeHouse for two and a half years, during which he and Wong developed a close bond, akin to a father and son. “Chef Alan was the main influence in getting me to where I am today,” says Guzman, author of “�e Shoreline Chef” cookbook and chef/owner of two Poke Stop restaurants on O‘ahu. “He’s the Phil Jackson [head coach of the Los Angeles Lakers] of the kitchen–a leader who gets you excited, rejuvenated and focused, and

TOP CHEF Alan Wong

...

NIGHTLIFE | Guide

who gets the whole team on the same page.” Inspired by Wong’s passion and drive, Guzman began envisioning a career as a chef. In weekly meetings, they’d talk about Wong’s experiences and what it would take for Guzman to excel in the industry. “I listened to whatever Chef Alan said needed to be done and I did it,” Guzman said. Wong landed a job for his protégé at the Greenbrier, the luxurious West Virginia resort where he himself had worked from 1980 to 1982. Guzman also spent three years working alongside the legendary Emeril Lagasse at his renowned Emeril’s restaurant in New Orleans. Before opening the Poke Stop in Waipahu in 2005, Guzman consulted with Wong many times. “Chef Alan gave me three important tips,” he says. “First, serve good, fresh food. Be creative, but remember the fundamentals of cooking; support local food producers; and make time to experiment. Second, keep your employees happy. �ird, know your niche, and have a great price point and location.” Even in this sputtering economy, that formula has worked; Guzman opened his second Poke Stop in Mililani Mauka in December. He credits Wong with lighting his path. “Ever since he took me under his wing 19 years ago, he’s always been there when I needed help and advice,” Guzman says. “I’ll never let him down.”

TEACHER, TEACHER!

As a new culinary arts student at Kapi‘olani Community College in 1986, Mark Oyama heard about Alan Wong’s stints at the Greenbrier and famed Lutèce in New York, and was impressed that a local boy was able to work at such five-star establishments. “I wanted to meet him,” Oyama says. “At the time, Chef Alan was working as the executive sous chef at the Waiohai Hotel in Po‘ipū, so when I was home on Kaua‘i for �anksgiving, I went there to introduce myself.” Ever gracious, Wong took a break to chat with his unexpected visitor. He joined the faculty of KCC’s culinary arts program two years later, and Oyama, who was about ready to graduate, popped by his office to “pick his brain” whenever time permitted. Wong arranged for Oyama to work for Christian Bertrand, former chef de cuisine of Lutèce, who had opened a restaurant in Greenwich, Connecticut. �ere, the self-proclaimed “country boy” learned how to prepare classical and nouvelle French cuisine. When Wong moved to Hawai‘i Island in 1989 to open the CanoeHouse, he asked Oyama to join his staff. “We worked our butts off for him, but we had fun and learned a lot,” Oyama recalls. “He motivated us to do our best. Ingredients, flavors, presentations, cleanliness–everything had to be top quality. Sometimes we thought, ‘Who is this madman?!’” �at’s a good-natured joke, of course; Oyama considers Wong to be an excellent teacher. “He often responded to our questions with questions, so we developed critical thinking skills and wound up getting the answers ourselves,” he says. Oyama is now the chef/owner of Mark’s Place, Mark’s Place Lawai and Contemporary Flavors Catering, and assistant professor/program coordinator for Kaua‘i Community College’s Culinary Department. “Chef Alan gave me the tools to teach my students,” he says. “�ere’s a spiritual side to him; he believes traditions should be respected and preserved, and he understands the roots of Hawai‘i’s ethnic foods. I think that’s what sets him apart from other fine local chefs.” Even with all the national attention that Wong has received—including a coveted James Beard Award and numerous honors from connoisseurs’ bibles such as Bon Appétit, Food & Wine and Gourmet—the beloved chef remains grounded. “He’s incredibly gifted, but also humble, likable, good-hearted and unpretentious,” Oyama says. “�at’s a sign of true greatness.”

...THE RADAR PEOPLE

Summer 2009 | | 99

at Lotus. Boasting three floors of entertainment, there’s ample space to mingle and soak up the atmosphere. 2301 Kūhiō Ave., Ste. 118, 924.1688

Murphy’s Bar & Grill �is charming eatery does a bustling lunch business and a brisk happy hour. Specials can include everything from fish ‘n’ chips to boneless kalbi ribs to Gaelic steak. 2 Merchant St., 531.0422

Oceans 808 �e old favorite Restaurant Row nightspot is back (under new ownership), revamped with a new name (although everyone still calls it ‘Oceans’) and fresh look. �is spot is made for dancing with its ultra-hip tunes, but it’s also a favorite pau hana spot, just like its predecessor. Restaurant Row, 525.5080

Pearl Ultralounge Pearl always has a steady flow of fashionistas and hipsters popping in and out. With three immense bars and numerous booths, it’s ideal for meeting new people. Don’t be surprised if the main bar transforms into a catwalk on occasion. And if you really wanna make a night out it, call ahead for VIP bottle service. Ho‘okipa

Terrace, Ala Moana Center, 944.8000

Pipeline Café With four bars and two dance floors, how can you not get your groove on? �ose who’d rather see than be seen can head to the second floor and watch the crowd from Pipeline’s closed-circuit television system. Pipeline is also a venue for choice concerts by both local and mainland bands. 805 Pohukaina St., 589.1999

Rum Fire Serving over 100 pre-embargoed rums and a specialty selection of pre-embargoed cigars, anticipating a great night out is not hard to do here. Don’t miss out on the lively social scene of plenty of twenty-and-thirty-somethings sipping on cocktails from local mix masters Joey Gottesman and Francesco Lafranconi. �e duo’s “Lets get ready to RUMball” is a great way to kick off the evening. Sheraton Waikiki, 866.952.FIRE

Thirtyninehotel Stylish, modern and edgy describe this downtown hotspot. Twenty- and thirty-somethings are drawn to its unique mix of arts, culture and music. An advocate of international arts awareness, �irtyninehotel is a rare find that features artists of all media in its gallery during the day and transforms into a venue for partygoers at night. 39 N. Hotel St., 599.2552

Zanzabar Waikīkī’s late night locale where visitors and kama‘āina can dance ‘til dawn. Offering a state-of-the-art sound system and two dance floors, Zanzabar’s DJs will help keep you on your toes as they spin a perfect blend of old school, hip-hop and Top 40. Waikiki Trade Center, 924.3939

NEIGHBOR ISLANDS

Luana Lounge �e remodeled lobby bar at the Fairmont Kea Lani sports an updated look that screams upscale leisure. Soak in the view with martini in hand while you nibble on tasty new bites made with Maui-sourced produce. Once the sun goes down, lounge in privacy on the cabana-esque canopy couches while you enjoy nightly Hawaiian entertainment. �e Fairmont Kea Lani, Maui, 875.4100

Mixx Bistro Bar �is is quickly becoming the watering hole of choice in Kona. Set adjacent the Kona Wine Market, it’s no surprise that this bar features fine wines, with a great organic selection as well. �ere’s plenty of brew too, with 30 beers available and creative cocktails for the ladies. King Kamehameha Mall, Kona, Hawai‘ i Island, 329.7334