The Kick-Off Issue

January 2013 | $6.00The Kick-Off IssueJanuary 2013 | $6.00The Kick-Off Issue

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New Products for the New Year!Advanced Beauty Inc.Manufacturer Profile

Jinny Manhattan Grand OpeningJinny Manhattan Grand OpeningInStyle - MSInStyle - MSInStyle - MSOTC Store Interview Inside

Stay In-The-Know with Industry News

Editorial Letter 10Pressing Forward .

Expert Advice 12Add New Life to Your Hair!

MarketPlace 18A Fresh Start

How Should You Sell It? 24Successful New Year Planning

Urban Call Briefs 43Black Beauty and Magazines (Part 1)

King of Locs 59Roberts Diamond Bond: To Protect Natural hair and

Serve the Consumer

Clipper Tips 76Get Attached to Attachments

Therapy Trends 78Trickle Down Therapies!

Tonsorial Times80A New Direction

Industry News 86Show Calendar 92Ad Index 92Reader Feedback 94Product Spotlight 96Parnevu T-Tree 3-Step Power Pack

CONTENTSJanuary 2013

Feature Article How the Permanent Curl is Formed 60by Dr Edward Tony LloneauGet the facts to fully understand how permanent curls are formed in hair Debunking the myths and general misconceptions on the subject, Dr Lloneau explains the process completely

Manufacturer ProfileAdvanced Beauty Inc 64by Haley McNealAs a beauty supply manufacturer it is essential to stay in-tune with current trends and the demands of consumers Advanced Beauty Inc understands this and, according to the company President Chris McClain, they strive to be nimble in the ever-changing landscape of the business OTC Beauty Magazine spoke with McClain to learn more about the organization and how this enables them to cater to customers needs

. Chris McClain , Advanced Beauty Inc , . OTC McClain , .

Retailer ProfileInStyle 70by Tony Bae

4 OTC Beauty Magazine January 2013012

in this issue

On The CoverAndis Co. proudly presents their collection of SuperLiner Trimmers. With four unique styles that can support four optional blades, creativity has a whole new look. Perfect for outlining, detailing, shaving and shaping, these tools have powerful rotary motors and smooth, sleek, lightweight, ergonomic designs. The detachable blades are easy to change and clean. What else do you need in a trimmer? www.andis.com


Finished ProductFacial Scrubs 28by Brooke WatsonWash away more than just dull, dead skin cells with facial scrubs; remove the stress of the day and reveal glowing, rejuvenated skin cells underneath when conducting your own at-home facial regimen Learn about this useful product that promotes skin health and beauty

Knowledge To KnowKeeping a Positive Attitude in 2013 34by Ted FishmanTo-do lists are helpful when completing responsibilities and can make you feel accomplished when crossing tasks off Learn how to utilize this useful tool while gearing up for a successful New Year

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The Proper Use of Oils and Their Purpose 38by Cindy TawiahAdding moisture to hair and relieving dry skin on the scalp, oils are a vital part to hair health This article shines light on the many types of oils that are used in beauty products and why they are so beneficial , .

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Business TipsWill You be Prepared for the Next

Hurricane Sandy? 48by Hillel L PresserIn late October 2012, Hurricane Sandy hit parts of Northeastern United States among other places It caused devastation to not only homes, but businesses as well Learn what precautions to take in order to be prepared in case a disaster like this happens to you

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Office Relationships: The Different

Shoes You Have to Fill 52by Sharon BennettIn the workplace there are inevitably multiple roles that are present and must be filled Learn the jobs that exist, how they differ from one another and how they can effectively be completed

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CONTENTSJanuary 2013

CEO:

Editor:

Korean News Editor:

Art Director:

Advertising & SalesCoordinator:

Contributing Writers:

Columnists:

Ann Jhin

Haley [email protected]

[email protected]

Tony [email protected] [email protected]

Earl [email protected]

[email protected]

Sharon BennettTed FishmanCyrus JacksonDr. Edward Tony LloneauLeanne MolterHillel L. PresserCindy Tawiah

Kenny DuncanLafayette JonesElayne McClaineDwayne Thompson

8 8 OTC Beauty Magazine January 2013

Post Master:

Please send address changes to:OTC Beauty Magazine

Attn: Subscriptions3587 Oakcliff Rd., Doraville, GA 30340

T: 678-805-3291 F: 678-805-3292

To subscribe, call us at 678-805-3291 or visit www.otcbeautymagazine.com.

Subscriptions are no charge for businesses (including retailers, manufacturers, and distributors)

in the U.S. of the beauty and barber supply industry.

For all other subscribers, yearly subscriptions (12 issues) are $48.00.

Please send a check payable to OTC Beauty Magazine to:

OTC Beauty Magazine; attn: subscriptions; 3587 Oakcliff Rd.; Doraville, GA 30340.

Cover price is $6.00.

OTC Beauty Magazine is a trade magazine for the multicultural beauty supply industry offering retail store owners, manufacturers,

distributors, and industry professionals a unique perspective on new and evolving products, useful business tips, effective selling

tools to boost revenue and customer traffic, and valuable product knowledge by combining insight and intelligence with depth

and style. This is the only bilingual publication in the industry offering both Korean and English translations.

OTC Beauty Magazine is published monthly by Jinny Corp. Postage paid at Auburn, AL and at additional mailing offices.

Reproduction in whole or in part of any text, photographs or illustrations without written permission from a staff

member is strictly prohibited.

OTC Beauty Magazine January 2013 10

Editorial Letter

[email protected]

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Take a moment and look around. Th e garland still hanging on the mantle and the confetti adorning the fl oor have overstayed their welcome; now its time to clean up and buckle down for a New Year. Th eres no doubt that 2012 was sent out in style and January 1 was greeted with much anticipation, but now you must get down to business. As you head into the New Year it is important to keep a bright, positive outlook and to have a plan to guide you along the way. OTC Beauty Magazine has included a few articles this month to help with these mindsets and staying on the right track. Be sure to check out Keeping a Positive Attitude in 2013 in the Knowledge to Know section as well as the How Should You Sell It response in this issue. Th ere are few things as valuable as advice from experts in the industry, and thats exactly what can be gained from these pieces. With this exciting time of the year comes the added attention your customers will pay to their beauty needs. Some may try out new hairstyles, pamper their skin more in the harsh winter weather, or begin stocking up on new makeup for the upcoming warmer seasons. Be ready for the increased sales that may arise, especially now that buyers have a little extra cash left over from the holidays. Here at OTC we encourage you to relish in the comfort and joy of Christmas that lingers long aft er the season is gone, and to harness the thrill of the New Year for weeks aft er the calendars turn. Use those treasures as moti-vation to press forward into a happy, healthy and prosper-ous 2013. Happy New Year!

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Pressing Forward

June 2012OTC Beauty Magazine 11


by Leanne Molter

Expert Advice

Many women are unhappy with their hair, while there are endless professional solutions and new opportunities. It usually is because of reasons like lack of volume, body, texture or the inability to grow the desired length of hair. As a beauty industry supplier, it is important to offer beauty professionals and clients alike the best quality products and versatile tools. Professional salon hair extensions are one of the most versatile beauty tools that will solve many of the challenges your clients may have. There are countless cases of women who have decided to make the life change, go for hair extensions and never look back! Having beautiful hair makes women feel great about themselves and their image. It boosts self-esteem, confidence and it also genuinely makes women and men look more attractive and healthier. Since there are times where creams, lotions and potions cant fix a problem; hair extensions are often a wonderful alternative to image enhancement rituals. As the most versatile tool in the beauty industry, hair extensions may be used to add length while also adding new volume and body. They can also help with clients whose hair has been damaged by chemical treatments. If a client wants some haircolor highlights or texture added but their hair is too fragile for chemical treatment, it is possible to gently add hair extensions

Add New Life To Your Hair!

as a chemical-free haircolor or texture adding alternative. The options and possibilities with hair extensions are endless. One hundred percent Remy human hair extensions can be brushed, washed, curled, permed, haircolored and flat ironed just as though it is your own natural hair. Vikki Parman, CEO and the Top Platform Artist at Di Biase Hair Extensions USA shares, One of the most important points to consider when a hairstylist is providing professional hair extension services is the hair you are using. The quality of the hair you select is very important. Better quality hair will give your client a much more natural head of hair to help instill more self-esteem and to improve their self-confidence. Many hair extension companies treat their hair differently. Some companies chemically bathe their hair and others use gentle hand washing techniques. Many important factors like this should be considered when trying to find the best hair extensions brand for any hair extension service. Though hair extensions are a fantastic tool, they often get a bad reputation because of the way they used to be applied. There isnt just one way to apply hair extensions anymore. Today, there are a variety of application techniques. They are offered in weft, clip-in, keratin bond, I-tip and sticker/adhesive.

Building Confidence with Healthy Radiant Hair Extensions

January 2013 OTC Beauty Magazine 13

Sticker/adhesive hair extensions are a great way to have a client test out hair extensions for the first time. The sticker/adhesive hair extensions dont last as long and are more affordable, yet the client will get the experience of having long, luscious locks. They will quickly see if hair extensions are right for them. Vikki Parman says, Sticker/adhesive hair extensions are often held together by a thin keratin tip or weft to an adhesive tape. The hair extension is attached by wrapping the sticker/adhesive hair extension around thin horizontal sections of hair. The width of the section depends on the brand of hair extension. The more versatile sticker/adhesive hair extensions are ones that are smaller and more closely resemble the fusion method of application. The smaller the section of hair needed

for each sticker, the more versatile the hairstyling options will be.

Tips you can share with your hairstylist customers who purchase hair extensions:

- When providing hair extension services and products, it is vitally important to schedule an initial consultation with your client. This will give you the opportunity to carefully listen to their hair desires and also their concerns. Inquire about your clients lifestyle, health, hobbies and home care regimens before offering any service or product. Then, you may give in-depth haircare instructions to your client, so her

you sell. Often manufacturers and distributors offer training in products and services. That way, your clients will always receive the best services, products and experiences.

Hair extensions are one of the biggest and fastest growing beautycare trends today. It is very exciting to be able to completely change a persons hair in one day. It is no wonder why hair extensions are making their way into many peoples everyday life.

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The expert advice in this article was written by Leanne Molter and was provided by Vikki Parman; CEO and Director of Education of Di Biase Hair Extensions USA. Di Biase Hair Extensions USA is located at 38455 Hills Tech Drive ~ Suite 200, Farmington Hills, MI 48331. For more information, call 248-489-8900 or visit www.DiBiaseHairUSA.com.


Expert Advice

Leanne Molter is a Marketing Coordinator at Marketing Solutions, a full-service marketing, advertising, media relations and consulting services agency specializing in

the professional beauty business. For more information, contact Marketing Solutions in

Fairfax, VA at 703-359-6000, email [email protected] or visit

www.MktgSols.com.

hair extensions will stay fabulous for months and throughout her daily activities. It is always good to hear what they actually want before sharing creative options and hair extension opportunities. This will help build their confidence in you, hair extensions and your business.

- Be sure to thoroughly analyze your clients hair to make sure their hair is in a condition that will enable a successful hair extensions application. Explain your haircare analysis, while sharing the wonderful benefits available through a variety of hair extension makeovers and application options. Select the hair quality and best application method for your clients hair extensions. Some clients may benefit more from a custom made clip-in or adhesive hair extension application which is more temporary, while others may benefit most from the usual long-lasting fusion and bonded hair extension applications.

- One of the biggest challenges with hair extensions today is that many hairstylists and other beauty experts do not have the proper training for hair extensions. As a beauty industry supplier, it could be a wise move to offer hair extension training and certification classes in the brands of hair extensions that

OTC Beauty Magazine December 2008 18 OTC Beauty Magazine January 2013

M A R K E T PLACE

Ring in the New Year with style and look Ring in the New Year with style and look Ring in the New Year with style and look fabulous while doing it.fabulous while doing it.fabulous while doing it.

1. Just Add HeatWhile adding volume to luscious locks this season, let the Diane Ceramic Ionic Round Thermal Brush help perfect the look. The ceramic barrel changes color with dryer heat to indicate optimal styling temperature. A sectioning pick is stored in the handle for convenience. www.frommonline.com

2. We Dare YouDesigned to condition, protect and treat the shaved scalp against excessive flaking and ingrown hairs, High Time Products Dare to be Bald Protective Scalp Treatment is a must-have for customers. It gives desired shine and fights razor bumps encountered when shaving the head closely with a razor. www.bumpstopper.com

3. Neat and TidyIf your customers don short and precise hairstyles, offer them Dax Short and Neat Light Hair Dress. Applied to clean, damp or dry hair this product successfully creates the desired natural look every time. www.imperialdax.com

A Fresh A Fresh A Fresh A Fresh A Fresh A Fresh StartStartStart

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Body ButterThe silky smooth formulation of natural olive oil and African shea butter found

inside BioCare Labs Body Butter leaves skin soft and supple This intensive

moisturizing lotion contains Vitamins A, B complex, C and E to help heal and

protect skin It also acts as an anti-aging emollient wwwbiocarelabscom

Skin MilkI bet you didnt know that milk is better for more than just your

bones Well, maybe thats just the milk you drink, but OTentikas

Maxitone Complexion Milk does wonders for skin Tone and even

out complexion with regular use of this lotion that delivers beautiful

radiance wwwotentikacom

Pump Up the VolumeSchwarzkopf & Henkels Olive & Tea Tree Reviv Oil Nourishing

Mousse nourishes the condition of hair and gives your

customers styles luxurious control It offers strength, moisture

and shine to hair, does not contain drying alcohol, and boasts

thermal protective ingredients to shield hair from heat styling

wwwsmoothnshinecom

OTC Beauty Magazine December 2008 20 OTC Beauty Magazine January 2013

CONDITION WITH COCONUTIf winter weather woes have you down and discouraged about dry

skin, let Coconut Moisturizing Gel ease your mind Created with

natural coconut oil, it provides skin with natural moisturizers that

soften, condition and restore skin tones Not only will it make skin

instantly soft and velvety smooth, but it will transport your mind to a

sunny beach by a relaxing ocean shore wwwcococarecom

M A R K E T PLACE

Lighten UpFor customers whose New Year resolutions include perfecting their skin

tone, Precious Lightening Serum could be their key to achievement When

applied to cleansed, dry skin regularly it can fade skin discoloration and

even its tone wwwmitchellgroupinternationalcom

Protect HairRobert Diamond Bonds premium salon inspired line of healthy

hair products work together for effortless, damage-free

extension bonding The Transparent Protective Shield is a part

of this system and provides complete hair and scalp protection,

ensuring glue never touches natural hair

December 2008 OTC Beauty Magazine

OTC Beauty Magazine December 2008

December 2008 OTC Beauty Magazine


How should you sell it?

This months focus is...

Successful New Year Planning!Its time again to get out fresh calendars and planners as you embark on yet another New Year 2013

holds great potential for your store and business in general, but you have to be in the right mindset

to achieve your goals

If you have input youd like to share regarding this question, send an email to [email protected]. Your response could be featured in the February issue!

What tips would you give store owners as they head into the New Year to ensure success in the months to come? Do you have one planning secret that you think everyone in the beauty business should know?

Talk to your customers... before they check out! Depending on the section theyre in, say, Hello...

What would make you happier with your (hair, skin, nails) today? Also, take the time to learn

about the products in your store. Start by learning at least ONE product solution to each of the most

common problems your customers report. If you become their expert, your business with them will

grow and will not be based on price alone.

Walt Winslow, Director Sales & Marketing

www.aphogee.com

ApHogee Products


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FACIAL SCRUBS

by Brooke Watson

Finished Product

Unclogging and shrinking pores, reducing the likelihood of acne breakouts, diminishing fi ne lines and keeping skin fresh, facial scrubs are a key component to many skin care regimens. Scrubs are exfoliation products specifi cally designed for use on the delicate skin of the face. Exfoliation is a process that removes dead skin cells that develop over time, allowing new cells underneath to shine through. Regular use can keep skin smooth and glowing, according to wisegeek.com, and many also contain a moisturizer to nourish the newly exposed cells.

Theres nothing quite like the refreshing feeling that comes after ridding your face of the makeup, dirt and build up that accumulates throughout the day. Soap and water do the trick of cleaning skin thoroughly, but sometimes a deeper clean is necessary. This is when facial scrubs come in handy, ridding the face of dead skin cells and revealing fresh new, glowing skin underneath.

Th e necessity of this will be discussed later. Used by both men and women, credit has been given to the ancient Egyptians for beginning the practice of exfoliation. Using natural ingredients and even wine in the Middle Ages, it was quite the creative act. Nonetheless, people the world over saw a need to pamper and care for skin, and developed an eff ective solution. It has evolved to take the form of chemical and physical exfoliation, both of which are eff ective for beautifi cation and overall well-being.

Exfoliation 101


FACIAL SCRUBS


Facial scrubs come in two forms, both of which confront the exfoliation process in different ways: chemical and physical. According to the Digital Doctor at thedermblog.com, over the counter chemical exfoliates use ingredients like salicylic, glycolic, citric or lactic acid to chemically remove dry, dead cells that rest on the skins surface. Many appear in low concentrations, but their presence still strips away unwanted cells for a glowing complexion. Physical exfoliates can be made up of sugars, salts, oatmeal, beads or even fruit derivatives/pits to clear skin of impurities. Often mixed with an oil base of some sort, they are put to work via the mechanical action of applying to the face (or body) with an application item this can be a regular wash cloth, your own hands, or a soft brush. No matter the mode of application, when rubbed in a circular motion it works its magic best. Harsher exfoliants like ground pumice or sands are not used for face scrubs, but may appear in products for the body.

Aside from scrubs, be aware that there are also other products used for skin pampering. Mud masks, facial peels and other specialty cleansers can be used to create the ultimate at home facial experience. Your more crafty customers may also be interested in making their own scrubs. This is possible, but you want to be sure to stock the best products in your store so they will not feel the need to create their own.

Contrary to what you might have heard, you can have too much of a good thing. It is important to remember that although facial scrubs are effective and can help with keeping skin healthy and clear, they should be used in moderation. Skin on the face is sensitive and using a scrub too excessively could irritate it. For this reason, use these products sparingly for example 2-3 times a week. Of course it depends on your skin type as to exactly how

Finished Product

Product Types

Easy Does It

often it is needed, but everyday use is not recommended. It is perfectly fine to remove dead skin cells via this practice, but keep in mind that they were originally there to protect the new, fresh cells that lay beneath them. This is why it is important to not overdo it when exfoliating. A little refreshing is good, but too much can damage the delicate new skin underneath. Also urge customers to use a moisturizer to nourish the newly exposed cells; they are not used to the harsh weather conditions and environmental toxins in the air that await them, so they need added protection. Facial scrubs are designed for use on the face, but exfoliation does not have to be confined to the one area. The entire body sheds skin cells and can benefit from a good sloughing every once and again. Encourage your customers to stay healthy from head to toe by offering facial scrubs as well as an array of exfoliating soaps. Let the true beauty of skin shine on!


*32 oz Size. While Supplies Last

JANUARY SPECIAL PROMOTION

Available Through Participating Distributors, Ask Your Distributor for Details

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by Ted FishmanKnowledge to KnowK-t-K

2013 .

Keeping a Positive Attitude in 2013

The New Year is celebrated in many ways. Some of us have parties, some travel to be with family, some prefer the quiet of a few friends at home. Whichever way we celebrate we will welcome the New Year 2013 because no matter what the old year brought, the New Year is the chance to change the negative things and to fulfi ll some of our hopes and dreams. We make New Years resolutions of various kinds lose weight, exercise, give to charity, etc. Its true that most of these resolutions only last a short time, but it is important to make time and to try to improve our lives in the New Year. Just the fact that we are here in 2013 is a blessing in itself. New Years resolutions can also pertain to your OTC business. Th e year 2012 was diffi cult for many businesses. Th e economy was down, but we all made it through to 2013. Th is is the time at the beginning of the year to have a positive attitude towards the way you are going to do business in 2013. Take some time to give it some thought and write down some of the positive actions you can take to

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make your OTC business more successful. Writing things down on a list is very powerful. You may not do everything on the list, but you will do some of the things and they will have a positive influence on your business. Put the list on a pegboard where you can see it daily and each time you accomplish one of the things on your list check it off. Running an OTC store can be very overwhelming. Just the day-to-day routine things that need to be done can be exhausting and leave you with not much time left to do anything extra to help make your business more successful in 2013. Following are 10 examples of things you may want to put on your list:

1. Make my store a nice place to shop by being sure my products are neatly stacked on shelves and my store is neat and clean.

2. Clean out all of the products that have been in boxes or are slow sellers and create a clearance section in my store.

3. I will keep up with current trends and be sure to order and stock some of the trendy new products available from my distributor. (Most distributors have New Item sections in their catalogs and flyers and you can easily find the trendy new items that are available.

4. Make a New Item section in my stores so my customers will see them as soon as they walk in.

5. Make some time to read trade magazines as well as the consumer magazines. (These are well worth your time since they show products that are good sellers and many have educational information that is very valuable to you as an OTC store owner.)

6. I am finally going take the time to put up signage and posters in my store. I will ask my distributor to send me posters on a regular basis and I will find a sign store where I can have signage

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made. This will help my customers find what they need when they shop in my store.

7. I will make some sale flyers and run sales at various times during the year. Ill keep the flyers in the front of the store and will also mail them out to my customers.

8. I will have index cards available for my customers to fill out with their name, address, salon name and address, and zip codes so that I can develop a list of customers to send flyers to when I am having special sales.

9. I will find ways to give back to the community. Perhaps I will donate some products to local churches or womens shelters, give out grocery gift cards, and try to find other areas of opportunity to give back to the community.

10. I will take some time to count my blessings and enjoy my family.

This list can go on and on. It doesnt have to all be done at once. Keep it handy and when you get a good idea of something you want to do to rev up your sales write it down on the list. You may not get to it in the next week or the next month but it will be there on the list, waiting for you and every time you go over your list you will be reminded of it. Eventually it will get done.

We at Ted Fishman & Associates wish you and yours a very happy, healthy, and prosperous New Year!

Ted Fishman, president of Ted Fishman & Associates is an industry veteran who has dedicated his life to the betterment of the business. He can be reached

through email at [email protected].

September 2012OTC Beauty Magazine 43

by Cindy TawiahKnowledge to KnowK-t-K

The The The The The The Proper Proper Proper Use of Use of Use of Oils and Oils and Oils and Their Their Their PurposePurposePurpose


The human scalp naturally produces oil known as sebum which helps to reduce fl akiness and prevents hair from looking dull and dry. Application of oils to the hair and scalp should be done sparingly or in moderation. Th e main thing that black hair needs is moisture which needs to be replenished routinely to ensure healthy hair. Th at being said there are a variety of oil-based products which promise to alleviate dryness and have been known to work. A few of these oils are Olive Oil, Coconut Oil and Argan Oil to mention a few. For years women have greased their scalps, bathed in oils and requested hot oil treatments or applied the oils to their hair. Th e objective was to relieve dryness and give dull, dry hair a shine. Olive Oil has superior penetrating power and is sometimes used in brilliantine hair dressings, emollients, eyelash oils, lipstick, nail polish removers, shampoos, face powder, anti wrinkle creams and massage oils. It is a pale yellow or greenish oil obtained from ripe olives grown around the Mediterranean Sea. Coconut Oil is another oil which is contained in hair dressing products, soaps and shampoos. It lathers readily and is a great skin cleanser. Th eobroma Cacao (Cocoa) is used to make cocoa butter and is a solid fat expressed from the roasted seeds of the cocoa plant. It helps heal or fade stretch marks and scars and can also be used in haircare preparations. Argania Spinosa (Argan tree from Morocco) produces Argan Oil. It has become a widely used oil in many products and has been widely marketed for cosmetic use as a Moroccan Oil. Argan Oil contains Tocopherols (vitamin E) and is also known for its healing properties. Oils applied directly to hair can cause hair to become weighed down and greasy. It can also lead to product build up on the scalp which leads to fl akiness and cause the scalp to itch. Th e percentage of oil in quality hair care product formulas is in minimal portions. Th ese are very light oils not as heavy as with the hot oil and olive oils. Th ese hair care formulations are also blended with proteins, conditioners, and moisturizers which further reduce the portions of oil. Moisture is the key to healthy hair. Aft er all when a plant is dry and it is in soil we water it or hydrate it. We dont pour oil in the soil. Dry hair should be treated the same way using products which help add or maintain moisture levels in the hair. And if oils are used they should be done sparingly and not as a matter of routine. Try putting a drop of oil on a blank piece of paper and

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notice it spreads. Therefore oil should be recommended for use in smaller doses and quality hair care products containing these products can be purchased and used. After all, the goal for many of your customers is to have healthy hair and to grow their hair. The information you supply them with will lead to trust of your expertise and knowledge, and will lead to greater sales.

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Cindy Tawiah, is the Creator and Founder of Diva by Cindy Hair products. She has also been featured in several hair magazines and her products were highlighted

through several media platforms. Her desire is to now take her products national and

heal generations of women everywhere. Visit http://www.divabycindy.com.

September 2012OTC Beauty Magazine 48a


by Lafayette Jones

Each month, Urban Call Briefs covers subjects that provide readers of OTC Beauty Magazine with information on multicultural consumers, Hispanics and African Americans, who are the fastest growing consumer segments in the U.S. The mission of this column is to build a bridge of communications and information between manufacturers and retailers and the ethnic consumers they wish to serve better. The column offers resources covering marketing, retail merchandising, consumer research, purchase behavior, fashion and beauty trends, industry events and people, trade association news, new product launches and a potpourri of information designed to help the readers make intelligent decisions about the customers they serve. Urban Call is a registered trademark of Segmented Marketing Services, Inc. (SMSi).For more information, call 336-759-7477 or visit www.segmentedmarketing.com.

The preceeding article is the property of SMSi Urban Call Marketing, Inc. and may not be reproduced without written permission from the author.

Lafayette Jones

For decades, African-Americans have turned to magazines for information on beauty, fashion, regional and national news. Th e magazines have the instantly recognizable covers that always fi ll the stands near the check-out area at mall, supermarket and hair salons. African-American readers count on these magazines to cover the important events aff ecting the African-American community, keep them informed on the lives of their favorite celebrities, and to recommend the latest products and trends in the beauty industry for people of color. Th is article, a fi rst in a two-part series, will include iconic African-American magazines such as Essence, Ebony, Jet, Sophisticates Black Hair Styles and Care Guide, BLACK ENTERPRISE, O, Th e Oprah Magazine, Sister 2 Sister and Upscale.

Urban Call Briefs

The African-American Magazines for Beauty Advice, Products and Trends

First in a Series

BLACK BEAUTY AND MAGAZINES

Magazine: EssenceBeauty Section: Beauty & HairEditor: Constance C. R. WhiteEditor Emeritus: Susan L. Taylor Founded(s): Edward Lewis, Clarence O. Smith, Cecil Hollingsworth, Jonathan Blount & Denise M. ClarkPublisher: Michelle Ebanks, President of Essence Communications, Inc.Officers: Greg Monfries, Creative Director; Vanessa K. Bush, Executive DirectorFounded: 1970Frequency: MonthlyReadership: 8.5 Million Website: www.essence.com Description: Essence is a monthly magazine for African-American women between the ages of 18 and 49. The New York based publication which circulates to over 1.5 Million readers covers fashion, lifestyle and beauty with an intimate girlfriend-to-girlfriend tone, and their slogan Fierce, Fun, and Fabulous suggests the magazines goal of empowering African-American women. The topics the magazine discusses range from celebrities and fashion to point-of-view pieces addressing current issues in the African-American community. The Beauty & Hair section of Essence is full of high-end makeup brands for women of color and the seasons most glamorous hair trends with chemically treated and non-chemically treated hair.

Urban Call Briefs

44 OTC Beauty Magazine January 201344 OTC Beauty Magazine January 2013

Essence

Ebony Magazine: Ebony Beauty Section: Style- Fashion, Beauty, GroomingEditor: Amy DuBois BarnettFounded: John H. Johnson, Eunice W. JohnsonPublisher: Linda Johnson Rice, Chairman & COOOfficers: Desire Rogers, Chief Executive Officer; Stephen Gregory Barr, Senior V.P./Group PublisherOwner: Johnson Publishing Company Founded: 1970Frequency: MonthlyReadership: 11 MillionWebsite: www.ebony.com Description: Ebony Magazine, the oldest and largest black publication, was founded by John H. Johnson and has published continuously since the autumn of 1945. Ebony cover photography has since its inception focused on African-American celebrities and politicians, such as Dorothy Dandridge, Mariah Carey, Barack Obama, and Zoe Saldana. Ebony has strived to address African-American issues, personalities and interests in a positive and self-affirming manner. Advertisers have for decades created ads specifically for the pages of Ebony that featured black models using their products. The magazines fashion section is synonymous with featuring black couture models. For more than 50 years, Ebony led the way in showing Black America the latest in high fashion with the Ebony Fashion Fair. The modeling show premiered creations by the worlds biggest designers and made big stars out of some of its models including Pat Cleveland and Ophelia DeVore. Ebonys influential beauty section features their top picks of hair products, easy tips to maintain healthy hair, and celebrity hair stories.

Jet

Magazine: JetBeauty Section: BeautyEditor: Mitzi MillerFounded: John H. Johnson, Eunice W. JohnsonPublisher: Linda Johnson Rice, Chairman & COOOfficers: Desire Rogers, Chief Executive Officer; Anslem Samuel Rocque, Managing EditorFounded: 1951Frequency: WeeklyReadership: 820,557Website: www.jetmag.com Description: As a sister-digest to Ebony magazine, Jet is notable for its role in chronicling the early days of the American Civil Rights movement from its earliest years, including coverage of the Emmett Till murder, the Montgomery Bus Boycott, and Martin Luther King, Jr. The magazine contains fashion and beauty tips, entertainment news, dating advice, political coverage, health tips, and diet guides, in addition to covering events such as fashion shows. Since 1952, Jet has had a full-page feature called Beauty of the Week. This feature includes a photograph of an African-American woman in a swimsuit (either one-piece or two-piece, but never nude), along with her name, place of residence, profession, hobbies and interests. Many of the women are not professional models and submit their photographs for the magazines consideration. The purpose of the feature is to promote the notion that African-American women are beautiful.

Jet

January 2013 OTC Beauty Magazine 45January 2013 OTC Beauty Magazine 45

BLACK ENTERPRISE

O, The Oprah Magazine

Sophisticates Black Hair Styles and Care Guide

Magazine: Sophisticates Black Hair Styles and Care GuideBeauty Section: Beauty & HairEditor: Jocelyn T. AmadorFounded(s): James L. Spurlock, Bonnie L. KreugerPublisher: James L. SpurlockOfficers: Bonnie L. Krueger, Publishing & Editorial Services Director; Kim Bigelow Earley, Production ManagerFounded: 1982Frequency: Eight Issues per YearReadership: 1.5 Million Website: www.sophisticatesblackhairstyles.com Description: Sophisticates Black Hair Styles and Care Guide (SBH) is the number one best-selling magazine devoted to African-American hair and beauty. SBH is a complete, all-color hair care and hair styling, beauty and grooming guide for African-American women, addressing those topics with detailed editorial and visual support. Since its first issue, SBH has stayed true to its vision to create a magazine for its readers that offers solid solutions to their everyday hair care and beauty concerns. The guide is also dedicated to showcasing the work of the talented Black cosmetologists who spend so much time honing their skills, staying up on the trends and continuing their education with product usage.

Magazine: BLACK ENTERPRISEBeauty Section: Lifestyle- Fashion & BeautyEditor: Derek T. Dingle, S.V.P.Founded: Earl G. Graves, Sr.Publisher: Earl G. Graves, Sr., ChairmanOfficers: Earl G. Graves, Jr., President & Chief Executive Officer; Alfred A. Edmond, Jr., S.V.P./Multimedia Editor at LargeFounded: 1970Frequency: MonthlyReadership: 4 MillionWebsite: www.blackenterprise.com Description: BLACK ENTERPRISE is the premier business, investing, and wealth-building resource for African Americans that has provided essential business information and advice to professionals, corporate executives, entrepreneurs, and decision makers. As a total media firm, BLACK ENTERPRISE offers publishing, digital and broadcast to educate and empower their audience to become full participants within the global economy. BlackEnterprise.com highlights Women of Power and offers a Fashion & Beauty section dedicated to providing black business women with the latest trends in work wardrobe.

Magazine: O, The Oprah MagazineBeauty Section: Beauty & HairEditor: Susan CaseyFounded: Oprah Winfrey & Hearst CorporationPublisher: Hearst MagazinesOfficers: Gayle King, Editor at Large; Adam Bell, Managing EditorFounded: 2000Frequency: MonthlyCirculation: 2,461,464Website: www.oprah.com/omagazine Description: Founded by multi-billionaire Oprah Winfrey, O, The Oprah Magazine, which is often simply referred to as O, aims to inspire readers to live their best life by presenting information, advice, and tools focused on self-empowerment. Dedicated to helping readers embrace more of who they really are, O seeks to encourage growth and discovery through charged stories and lessons. The magazine offers Oprahs recommended beauty buys of the week, of the month, fashion accessories for the season and products for every hair type. Those who look to O for beauty recommendations tend to be married, mothers or working women.


Urban Call Briefs

Upscale

Sister 2 Sister

Magazine: Sister 2 SisterBeauty Section: The Beauty PlaceEditor: Lorenzo BrownFounded: Jamie Foster BrownPublisher: Jamie Foster BrownOfficers: Russell Brown, Business Operations Manager, Kia Hopings, Office ManagerOwner: Johnson Publishing Company Founded: 1988Frequency: MonthlyReadership: 800,000Website: www.s2smagazine.com Description: Sister 2 Sister Magazine is one of the premiere choices for African-Americans who want entertainment news straight from the source. Sister 2 Sisters longstanding relationships with top industry insiders, top African-American celebrities, and newly minted reality stars grants access to an influential and fully engaged audience within the pages of the publication. The Beauty Place section of the magazine is full of a festive soiree of beauty products including makeup, nail polish, skin treatments and accessories. These easily obtainable and affordable products make Sister 2 Sister a go-to magazine for the African-American consumer in search of easily achievable beauty methods.

Magazine: UpscaleBeauty Section: Beauty & StyleEditor: Sheila BronnerFounded & Publisher: Bernard BronnerOfficers: Gerald Render, V.P.; Allison Backer, Senior Editor; Maggie E. Ocasio, V.P. of MarketingFounded: 1989Frequency: Nine Issues per Year Readership: 177,787Website: www.upscalemagazine.com Description: Upscale Magazine, owned by the Bronner Bros. empire which hosts the annual Bronner Bros. International Hair Show, is the ultimate lifestyle magazine addressing the needs of stylish, informed and progressive AfricanAmericans. Readers find the latest news in entertainment, beauty, fashion, health, fitness and travel. It is more than a magazine, it is a lifestyle. It is a place to be empowered and inspired to live loudly, learn smartly and embrace life with passion. Upscale Magazines Beauty & Style section features recommend hair products for all African-American hair textures while some of the biggest celebrities wear glam, funky and playful hairstyles that readers can easily duplicate for an upscale look.


by Hillel L. Presser

Business Tips

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(revised edition) presser .

www.assetprotectionattorneys.com

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As the beleaguered residents of New York City and New Jersey continue to put their lives back together, asset protection lawyer Hillel L. Presser reminds Americans it could happen to you! Weve seen some bizarre, destructive weather in recent years nearly 1700 tornadoes in 2011, extreme drought this year [2012] and Hurricane Sandy followed up with a Noreaster, just to name a few, says Presser, author of Financial Self-Defense (Revised Edition), www.assetprotectionattorneys.com. And we can expect more of the same. AccuWeather is forecasting major snowstorms from North Carolina to New York City in January and February; severe storms across the South, with the possibility of tornadoes and fl ash fl ooding; and a growing drought in the Northwest that carries the potential for more wildfi res. People should take steps now, before a crisis, to make sure theyre protected, he says. If your tree falls on your neighbors house in a storm, will you be prepared for a lawsuit? he asks. Is your important paperwork in a safe place where youll be able to access it if your home

?

Will You Be Prepared for the Next Hurricane Sandy?

Asset Protection Specialist Offers Disaster Safeguarding Tips

floods, like so many people in New York and New Jersey?

He offers these tips for safeguarding your assets now:

Protect your assets from lawsuits. One way to do this is by protectively titling non-exempt assets. Exempt assets vary by state and may include such things as your primary residence and personal furniture; make sure to check your specific state exemptions those items generally should not need any extra protection. However, non-exempt assets, such as bank accounts, recreational vehicles and the like, should be titled in the names of corporations, limited partnerships, domestic trusts and other entities.

Have adequate insurance. In fact, over-insure your assets! Those include -- but are not limited to -- your car, home, and other valuables. You never know what you could lose in a natural disaster.

Diversify your assets geographically. This is extremely important in the case of natural disasters. Use

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international asset protection to help disperse your valuables into some non-U.S.-based jurisdictions.

Safeguard your paperwork. Collect and copy all paperwork and have it accessible in the event you must evacuate. Give the second copy to a trusted financial advisor, attorney or trustee for safekeeping. Take a video of every room and keep an itemized asset list with your paperwork. That way, youll have the documentation to present to your insurance company when filing a claim. Photos and videos, as well as receipts and documents showing the value of those assets will help.

Safeguard your business. Create a plan of action to implement in the event of a natural disaster, and practice implementing it. Hurricane Sandy illustrated the problems business owners faced in trying to resume operations during widespread power outages and equipment destroyed by floodwaters. Do you have a generator? Can you utilize cloud computing? Keep a record of all payrolls and business documents remotely so that if you dont have access to your business dwelling, you can still access copies of all important business documentation.

Make sure your estate plan is up to date. Everyone should have an updated Estate Plan, including minor children. Choose one trustworthy person to be the executor of your estate. This person should have a hard copy of your financial account information and list of your assets, including intellectual property and passwords that you can access in the event of a natural disaster.


Business Tips

Hillel L. Presser, Esq., MBA His firm, The Presser Law Firm, P.A., represents individuals and businesses in establishing comprehensive asset protection

plans. He is a graduate of Syracuse Universitys School of Management and Nova

Southeastern Universitys law school, and serves on Novas Presidents Advisory

Council. He also serves on the boards of several non-profit organizations for his

professional athlete clients. He is a former adjunct faculty member for law at Lynn

University. Complimentary copies of Financial Self-Defense are available through

www.assetprotectionattorneys.com.

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September 2012 OTC Beauty Magazine 49

by Sharon Bennett

Business Tips

In todays business world your life is bombarded with constant requirements for your time, energy and mind. Balancing all the varied facets that aff ect your life can prove to be complex, but it is an absolute necessity. Not doing so can mean the diff erence between a positive or negative outcome. Everyone has diff erent roles to fi ll at the offi ce, sometimes all at once; whether its the boss, the colleague or the subordinate.

How you handle these relationships is like slipping into a diff erent pair of shoes. Sometimes a person has to try

many diff erent shoes before they fi nd one pair that fi ts their personality, business style and budget.

The Different Shoes You Have To Fill

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Office Relationships:

The Boss:The way a boss should relate to their colleagues and subordinates is to treat them with respect and as partners in the business in which they work. Employees perform better if they have a vested interest in the company, are respected, and feel as if they make a difference. Your management style can be that of the authoritarian; but that wont earn you the loyalty and respect of your subordinates. Thats compliance out of fear! Motivate your staff to get involved via a model of mutual respect and collaboration, not a, My shoes are bigger than your shoes attitude. Thats ego, which is temporary and accomplishes nothing permanent. Learn how to speak to others in a non-condescending manner. Be attentive and ask questions. Thank your colleagues and subordinates regularly, and encourage them to research and explore their own ideas. Make a concerted effort to engage your employees on a regular basis and reward their successes. Be a boss you would

want to have.

The Colleague:Similarly, respect your coworkers

strive to get along, dont blur too much the line between coworkers

and friends. Respect is the key! Have respect for

your boss and your coworkers, but also

have respect for yourself

champion your work,

but

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Sharon Bennett, BA, BSN has been a motivational health and wellness consultant for nearly 16 years with a desire to help others heal emotionally, be healthy and realize their full value.

She is the author of the Shoe Fetish Series, the International Library of Poetrys Editors Choice

Award 2001 winner, a member of the National Speakers Association and the National Association

of Professional Women. For more information see ShoeFetishMovement.com, call 888-321-9604, or

email [email protected].

Business Tips

dont be afraid or angered by constructive criticism; use it to make positive changes and improvements. Dont give into temptation to gossip about your coworkers. Those words will come back to haunt you.

The Subordinate:Every level of employment is an integral part of that companys success. Knowing the different personalities and how they function can help you to succeed; set yourself and your organization up for success by recognizing everyones individual personality traits and place them in positions where they will thrive. Look for qualities in others that you admire and emulate them. Companies lose millions of dollars a year in employee illnesses or sub-par work, a major setback, likely because many employees feel no allegiance to the team, or feel as if they are not a pivotal cog in the organization. Brainstorm ways that the company can get more participation via inspiration, and move others to work as an integral unit for the betterment of the whole by moving towards wellness. Come up with strategies to motivate and inspire your employees by decreasing stress and anxiety. Ask them what they want.

Sometimes a person has to try many different shoes before they find one pair that fits their business style, personality and budget. Everyone moves through these roles in their career, remember what you learned and keep healthy relationships. Step into your perfect pair of shoes by stepping into a better life; a life that you take control and responsibility for.

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H 50 OTC Beauty Magazine July 2012

HJanuary 2013 OTC Beauty Magazine 59

Cyrus Jackson has had a successful career in the hair care industry for over 30 years including sales, marketing and product development with companies such as World of Curl, D-Orum Products and Leisure Curl. Jackson is the owner and president of Professional Products Unlimited, Inc. makers of one of the first complete products lines in the industry for the care and maintenance of natural ethnic hair types, Jamaican Mango & Lime. Jacksons continued development and promotions of quality products for natural ethnic beauty has made him the self proclaimed King of Locs.

Healthy hair is all the rage as the ethnic hair care sector embraces the natural hair care trend. Chemicals can be harsh on hair that is already prone to damage and dryness by nature. Unfortunately, hair with a natural curl pattern tends to be more vulnerable to heat and styling damage. Th is is where the protective style becomes handy. A protective style refers to a hassle free style that allows natural hair to remain in a state of rest but still maintain manageability, style and nourishment. One popular style is the braid. Th ey come in all shapes and forms, from cornrow and plaits to twists and coils. Th e rise in the weave industry has created a market for the versatile natural hair care customer. If weaves and extensions are executed and styled with the right products and with the health of the natural tresses in mind it can be the key to even longer, stronger natural hair. Th ere is nothing new under the sun as the saying goes. Everything from the universe, to the economy and even hair care takes us on a merry-go-round more oft en than not. Weaves, extensions, wigs and hair pieces date back to the 18th century. God forbid the powdered wig craze rears its ugly head anytime soon but lets face it, it is not that farfetched to see old styling methods and trends show up where we least expect it. Just take a look at the afro. It has made an appearance at least three times in the last 150 years. Each time with a new variation, but the concept always stays the same. Th e case with hair pieces is no diff erent. Th e natural head of hair is either in poor shape or it is just determined that it needs or should be covered for a time. Th e protective style is similar with one catch. Th e care of the hair extension and the care of the natural mane is the focus instead of fashion and individual style. Th is is signifi cant as we can walk into any OTC store and observe half the store selling hair in addition to styling products. Weave and extensions are big business. According to consumer reports, the ethnic weave industry brings in more than $15 billion dollars annually. Over 60 percent of women with ethnic hair types will purchase a product for weave throughout the year. Th is means big business to those of us with the right products and a feel for the needs of our customers. Th e key to a good weave product is hair health. Weave extensions and wig application processes can harm the hair if not performed correctly. Hair weft s must be sewn in and secured to the hair with heavy threads. Wigs can have harsh irritants and materials that can oft en cause breakage and damage. Th e same

glues that are produced to apply quick weaves contain chemicals that are used for industrial adhesives. Th is can mean that a decision to change your hair style can lead to major damage and currently we are selling to some of the most hair healthy conscious consumers in the history of this industry. Th e natural hair care sector has to be the most educated hair care consumers in the business. I mean they really do their research and make serious sacrifi ces to go completely natural, but more oft en than not they still want the freedom and versatility of all types of hair styles. Th e key to this is the ultimate in hair protection. Th e coiled hair strand is fragile to begin with and as so many have discovered with their experience in relaxers and chemicals, certain types of styling comes with a price. Products like Roberts Diamond Bond Protective Shieldprovides just the right protection for the hair health conscious consumer. Roberts Diamond Bond Protective Shield is a complete line of products specifi cally made to surround the hair with a nourishing barrier that promotes hair health as it provides protection from weave styling that is as strong as a diamond. Imagine if you will our new consumer which has spent the last year growing out her relaxer or maybe she has just grown out a wonderful natural mane aft er deciding to make the big chop to cut off all of her chemically treated hair. She has made a huge sacrifi ce to go natural and have the healthiest head of hair she can. Changes in society and the hair care industry have given natural hair care more versatility than ever before but providing protection for the options of weave care is taking it to another level. Roberts Diamond Bond Protective Shield can be applied to natural hair and braided wrapped or laid fl at. Th e glued on quick weave weft , wig cap or sewn on track comes in contact with the shield and not the hair. Th is product provides the ultimate protection for those that want to maximize their natural hair versatility and want to keep their natural hair healthy. As the hair care industry produces more products and infl uences new trends we must continue to meet the needs of our savvy consumers. If reports show that over 90 percent of OTC stores report weave products as more than 40 percent of their retail mix it is only natural that they provide hair healthy products to accompany those weave products. Stocking products like Roberts Diamond Bond is not only great customer service but an added value to any store as an up sell on any weave application.

by Cyrus Jackson

King of Locs

Roberts Diamond Bond: To Protect Natural Hair and Serve

the Consumer

Gaining


by Dr. Edward Tony Lloneau

Feature

In reference to cold waves for permanently curling the hair, my theories differ almost totally from what is reectedintextbooks.

How the Permanent

Curl is Formed

61

Mytheoryis:youmaybeundertheimpressionthatthepermanentcurlisformedbyreformingthebonds,howeverthisisnottrue.Thechangeof thebondsisaresultof thecurlbeingformedprimarilyonthecuticleandthebondssimplyfollow

the direction of the curled cuticle and end up in a changed formation as they conform to thewindingsof therods.Thebondsarebasicallyliquidandtherefore,cannotbe

reformedtoholdthehairinanypermanentformation.ThedecreasingpHof the cold wave solutions is not strong enough to penetrate deep into

thecortextobringaboutapermanentchange. Thecuticlelayerismadeupof thesamesubstanceasthe

fingernail(KeratinProtein),onlythinnerandmoreexible;ithasthesamehardtexture.Thecuticleistheonlyareaof thehairshaftthatissolidandhasenoughsubstanceto

withstandapermanentchangechemically.Idonotmeanto infer that other parts of the hair are not affected becausetheseareasof hairarechangedsomewhatduetothehairbeingstretchedasitiswoundontherod.However,theareaof thehairthatischieychanged,allowingittobepermanentlyrearranged,isthecuticlelayer. Tobetterunderstandthisconcept,letslookatitfromanotherpointof view.Thecuticlelayerislikeashellandlikeanythingthatiscontainedinashell,willtakeontheshapeof thatshell.Theinsideof thehairshaft(Cortex,Medulla,Bonds,etc),willfollowthedirectionof thecuticle.Whenthehairiswrappedonthe rods to form the curl, the cold wavesolutionisapplied.Thecuticleissoftenedbythesolutionandbeginstohugtherod,takingontheshapeof theroditiswrappedon.Later, after the desired curl or wave is achieved, the hair is rinsed and theneutralizer-stabilizerisapplied.Thisstepre-hardensthecuticletoitsoriginaltexture,inthealteredstateof theroditiswrappedon.However,totalstabilizationdoesnottakeplacerightaway.Ittakesaboutthreedaysforthehairtobecomefullystabilized.Thisiswhy you tell your patron not to shampoo or go swimming for at least three days after a curl treatment(fivetosevendaysonAfrohair).

January 2013 OTC Beauty Magazine

How the Permanent

Curl is Formed


SodiumHydroxiderelaxersremoveuptoone-thirdof the cuticle layer and this is why a cold wave permanent will nottakeonpreviouslyrelaxedhair. Oneof thetragicaspectsof BlackCosmetologyisthatinmoststatesif astudenttookaBlackpatrontoperforma complete curl as part of his/hertestingattheStateBoardexamination,oneof twothingswouldhappen:(1)ThestudentwoulddothecurlasrequestedbytheStateexaminerandendupwithunsatisfactoryendresults.Thestudentwouldpassthetestbecausehe/she would have followed establishedStateBoardprocedure,even if that procedure was wrong forthehairbeingworked.(2)He/she would do the curl as it should bedoneonnaturallyover-curlyhairandendupwithbeautifulandlustrousresults,butfailthataspectof theStateBoardexamination. ThereasonforthisismostStateBoardsandtextbooksare only concerned with the permanent curl as it relates to straighthair.Thetruthof thematteristherearebasicallyfivemajor differences when doing the procedureonanycurlyorkinkyhair.

How is a permanent curl similar to a curling iron curl?Thecuticleisof primaryimportanceintheformationof thepermanentcurl.Thecurling iron softens the cuticle with thermal heat, allowing the cuticletobebentintheshapeof thecurlingiron,formingatemporarycurl.Thecurlislockedintemporarilyasthehaircoolsandmaybelosttogravitationalpull,ormoisturefromhumidity,perspiration,rain,etc.Thepermanentcurlisformedbysofteningthecuticlechemicallywithasolutiondesignedforthatpurpose(AmmoniumThioglycolate).Thecuticle is softened in the shape of the rod it is wrapped around;therebyformingthecurlthatislockedinbytheapplication of a neutralizer

What are the five basic differences in executing the curl on kinky hair, as opposed to straight?1.Thehairmustbere-arranged(pre-softenedwithacoldwavecrmeorgel).2.Thestrandsareplacedon-baseinsteadof off-baseasdescribedintextbooks.3.Thehairisroddedwithslighttension(pressure)

application.4.Theprocessingtimecanbefrom20to30minutesinsteadof 12to15minutes.5.Thecurltakesuptosevendaystolock-in.

Themaindifferenceisbeforeyoucanpermanentlycurlkinkyhair;youmustfirstremove40to60percentof thenaturalcurl.Thisisdonebycombingacold wave crme or gel through the hair in the same manner as relaxingcrmeforbasicallythesamereason.

Why you roll curly and wavy hair on base with slight tension instead of vice versa as taught in school.Inbeautyschoolyouweretaughttorolloff-basewithnotension.Thisprocedureiscorrectforstraighthair,butoncurly and wavy hair you need thisextraassistof tensiononbasetohelpeliminatethenaturalcurlwhichisbeingreplacedbythecontrolledcurl;otherwise you may end up with a frizzy curl or no curl at all.Thisistrueonallnaturallycurly or wavy hair regardless of thenationalityof thepatron.Unlikerelaxersthatcanover-process or over-straighten the

hairif leftinthehairtoolongorworkedintoovigorously,acoldwavegelorcrmewillrelaxthehairnomorethan60percent.Inordertogiveasuccessfulcurlonkinkyhair,youmustremovesomeof thenaturalkinksoyoucancomebackwithacontrolledcurlontherods.

Why you cannot permanently curl relaxed hair.Relaxedhairisalteredhairbecauserelaxerremovesone-thirdof everypartof thehaircomposition.Thecurlisformedprimarily on the cuticle, and with a portion of the cuticle removedbytherelaxer,itcouldresultinaweakcurlornocurlatall.

Feature

Dr. Edward Tony Lloneau received his doctoral from the National Beauty Culturist League (N.B.C.L.), and sanctioned through Howard University in

Washington, D.C. in 1985. Lloneau attended the institute as both a student and

instructor. His specialized field of study is Tricology as it relates to ethnic cosmetology.

He has written several books on this subject, and has authored many articles in trade

magazine drawing attention to some of the pitfalls and professional related problems that

ethnic cosmetologist and students encounter on a daily basis. Contact Dr. Lloneau at

[email protected] or call 310-323-7100.


Advanced Beauty

Inc.

by Haley McNeal

Manufacturer

Profile

PresidentPresident Chris McClain

OTC Beauty Magazine (OTC): Briefl y describe the history of Advanced Beauty Inc. How did this company get started and what is it founded on?Chris McClain (CM): Advanced Beauty Inc. was founded in 2003 and since has become one of the fastest growing health and beauty companies in the United States. Th e companys innovative, high quality product lines appeal to women desiring beauty on a budget or an at-home escape. I wanted to establish an organization that could bring to market brands with the same performance and quality of high-end brands but at a great value. Over the years, we have established several strong consumer brands and delivered on this promise across various product categories.

OTC: How is the company structured and what brands make up ABI? CM: Th e OTC channel is very familiar with our ethnic brand, Cantu, Americas #1 conditioning brand. Cantu off ers a collection of ultra-moisturizing products made with 100% Pure Shea Butter and other natural ingredients to moisturize, repair and protect the hair and skin. It is anchored by the #1 selling conditioner, Cantu Shea Butter Leave In Conditioning Repair Cream. Advanced Beauty is actually made up of various brands. Th e largest is bodycology, Americas fastest-growing beauty brand. It is a full line of body care products that off ers a bouquet of beautiful fragrances at half the price youll fi nd at specialty bath stores. Additionally, the Dr. Teals brand supports healthy living and overall well-being by off ering high quality, benefi t based therapeutic solutions at a value price compared to higher-end specialty brands. Finally, we have several other smaller brands, including a newly launched Pretty, a collection of fun, high-value cosmetic bags.

OTC: What prompted the need for your product/line within the beauty industry?CM: Th e beauty industry is overfl owing with two kinds of brands. Th e fi rst are brands that have very strong-performing formulas or fragrances but also have a very high price tag. Th e second are very inexpensive brands that dont quite deliver on the performance consumers need. We focus on off ering strong-performance formulas and fragrances at a smart value. Th is is what Cantu was based on delivering to the ethnic hair care consumer more of what she wants for less.


As a beauty supply manufacturer it is essential to stay in-tune with current trends and the demands of consumers. Advanced Beauty Inc. understands this and, according to the company President Chris McClain, they strive to be nimble in the ever-changing landscape of the business. OTC Beauty Magazine spoke with McClain to learn more about the organization and how this enables them to cater to customers needs.

. Chris McClain , Advanced Beauty Inc , . OTC McClain ,

OTC (OTC): Advanced Beauty Inc . ?Chris McClain (CM): Advanced Beauty Inc 2003 & . . . , , .

OTC: , Advanced Beauty Inc ?CM:OTC ethnic brand( ) Cantu , No.1 . Cantu 100% . No. 1 Cantu Shea Butter Leave In Conditioning Repair Cream .Advanced Beauty . bodycology , . , Dr. Teals . . , Pretty . .

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Chris McClain


Manufacturer Profile

OTC: What makes Advanced Beauty stand out from the rest of its competition? What is the distinguishing factor that makes this company different?OM: We are focused on consumer need. For example, we understand that moisture is the #1 need for ethnic hair care shoppers. They are looking for ways to add and retain moisture in hair and Cantu delivers on that better than any other brand. With ultra-moisturizing ingredients, our formulas are designed to keep hair soft and moisturized.

OTC: Who is the main audience for your products and what steps are you taking to ensure you meet their needs?CM: Each of our brands have a unique consumer target, however, they all have one commonality. These brands are for women who demand high quality products but are looking for superior value. Our brands deliver the same performance as high-end brands, but can always be found at their favorite store and always for a great price. At Advanced Beauty, we work hard to stay on top of consumer trends. We spend time in the market learning from retailers and consumers alike on what sells well, particularly with high-end brands. We are always looking for the next great value we can provide.

OTC: Please explain how your OTC store partners and our readers can benefit from carrying ABI products and having that business relationship with the company.CM: Over the last 9 years, Cantu has proven to be a sure winner in the ethnic hair care category. This brand is a must-have for any OTC retailer who wants to drive dollar sales and repeat visits. No OTC retailer should be without our Leave In Conditioning Repair Cream or the rest of our best-selling items.

OTC: How do you educate consumers and retailers on product knowledge? CM: We have recently launched a new website (www.CantuBeauty.com) that is geared to product and hair care education. It features a product catalogue with product info, styling tips, brand and user videos. Weve also created a new blog, Clip Notes, to provide our consumer with regular information on how to best care for her hair. Weve also launched a new store locator to make sure we drive consumers back to retail. Additionally, we are active on various social networks to keep an open dialogue with consumers.

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OTC: Advanced Beauty ? ?CM: . , ethnic hair care( ) . , Cantu . , .

OTC: , ?CM: . , . . , . Advanced Beauty . , , . great value( ) .

OTC: OTC .CM: 9 , Cantuethnic hair care . OTC . Leave In Conditioning Repair Cream OTC .

OTC: ?CM: (www.CantuBeauty.com) . , , . Clip Notes , . . , .

OTC: What do you feel is the most important thing for multicultural beauty store owners to know when recommending your companys products to their customers? Also, what marketing tips would you suggest for selling success? CM: The best suggestion we can make is to listen carefully to their customers. Often they will not know what they are looking for exactly. Any time a customer mentions needing or wanting moisture, whether for cleansing, conditioning or styling, they should point the customer to Cantu. Cantu can always deliver on that and always at a great value. Marketing is useless if consumers cant find the products. They should play close attention to their store layout and organization. Make it easy for shoppers to navigate the store and find their products. Organize the layout based on your specific customer you know them better than anyone else. This can go a long way in your selling success.

OTC: What does the future hold for Advanced Beauty, Inc? Do you have any big advancements, releases, etc. planned for the coming months that you can discuss?CM: The upcoming year will be a very big one for Advanced Beauty, and Cantu in particular. This year we hired a new team to drive the Cantu brand, each team member with varying backgrounds that include large consumer marketing and product development organizations. This new team is working on innovation that grows our conditioning strength in the market as well as a marketing plan to drive more brand awareness and trial. We are looking forward to partnering with the OTC channel for collaborative success in 2013.

OTC: What is the best business advice you can give store owners, especially as they head into the New Year?CM: One of the most challenging aspects of owning your own business is trying to be everywhere all the time. It can be difficult to prioritize every opportunity, but its an important activity. Putting resources like time, money, even brain-power on those activities that are going to give you the most impact are crucial to long-term success. There is no time like the New Year to revisit the companys biggest objectives and focus on the priorities.

Company Name: Advanced Beauty Inc..Phone: 972-934-9888Address: 5501 LBJ Suite 900, Dallas, TX 75240Website: www.CantuBeauty.com Year in Business: 10

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OTC: Advanced Beauty, Inc ? , ?CM: Advanced Beauty, Cantu . Cantu . . . 2013 OTC .

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CLIPPER TIPS

Recently the Andis company has released a versatile trimmer called the Superliner. The Superliner has a rotary motor that allows this trimmer to cut through the thickest of hair effortlessly while featuring a detachable blade system. The versatility is obtained by the different attachments designed to t the trimmer. Each attachment is designed for a totally different use. The rst attachment is the In-Liner blade, a thin four tooth trimmer blade set designed as an attachment designed for the Superliner. It ful lls the purpose of being an aid to barber artist who want to clip hair in small sections to create details with ease. The second attachment is the Shaver Attachment, which when coupled with the Superliner is a powerful shaver that offers consistent power unlike its battery powered counterparts. A great selling point for your cosmetology customers that serve men who do shave is that they can give a great shave legally with the shaver attachment. I say this because in most states cosmetologist are not allowed to use razors to shave, so the shaver attachment is a great alternative. The third attachment should be an additional trimmer blade. Preparing your customers for accidents by suggesting they purchase replacement blades at the time they purchase the trimmer. Due to the fact that every barber is different and so are their clients, tools with attachments have become more attractive. Having attachments that can help your customers service all of their clients due to the wide range of uses the Superliner trimmer has with a each attachment is a plus. While saving space on their stations is one bene t, not experiencing heat buildup from the body of a trimmer also reduces the desire for barbers to switch trimmers in the middle of one haircut. In closing I would say if you want to get attached to increased sales, get attached to attachments!

Get Attached to Attachments

Sponsored by Andis Co.

Kenny The Professional Duncan is a National educator for the Andis Co. He has presented classroom demonstrations and platform education at many tradeshows such as Empire Future Professionals, IHS International Hair Show, Bronner Bros International Hair Show and many more. He brings a wealth of information

and experience to clipper cutting education. He teaches styling professionals the simplest approach to multicultural hair styling through a combination of solid technical demonstrations, creative interpretations, and entertaining presentations. Kenny is co-owner of Main Attraction Unisex Hair Salon, located in Philadelphia. He is reaching stylists around the world through www.ClipperEducation.com, where his goal is to provide inspiration, motivation and education to clippers cutters of all experience levels. He truly is a trailblazer in this industry.

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THERAPY TRENDS

Elayne McClaine has identi ed and developed emergingdomestic and global trends in hair care, skin care and other consumercategories for such rms as Chesebrough-Ponds, Revlon andPharmacia (div. of P zer). Herexpertise in therapeutic treatments

for hair, skin and scalp led to the creation of the WomensInstitute for Fine and Thinning Hair, sponsored by Rogaine.McClaine has been acknowledged by the American Academy of Dermatologists for marketing and promotional excellence.

ESME Market Specialists, LLC consults with rms that require expertise in strategy development, multicultural marketing and account planning. For more information,visit www.esmemarketspecialists.com.


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Trickle Down Therapies!

Last year Keratin and the appliances that ignite the therapy were hot! Many manufacturers and stylists were unsure of the viability of the category: the treatment was time consuming and laborious. It was expensive. Results were iffy. Ideal targeting was confusing. Just in time for the New Year, ethnic manufacturers have discovered the relevance of the therapy. Your customers with chemical processes will be invited to join the frenzy. Products are already available to economically slick down the frizzies for weeks at a time. As you stock up for 2013, pay attention to those salon trends that should be translated into at-home use. Pay attention to mis-targeted products and brands. Pay attention to therapies and technologies that will trickle down to the OTC. Your consumers will rely on ancient brands with a new story to tell. For instance, an age-old fade cream brand being relaunched to a new generation as a moisturizing skin care regimen. Stretch mark treatment and whiter, healthier teeth are new glamour categories. Consumers are seeking solutions for the most mundane barriers to beauty. And they are seeking these therapies at a mass outlet price point! Be also aware that specialty stores are getting into the solutions game with the same mass therapies marked up to high priced luxury. OTCs should observe that the new consumer therapies will trickle down from the hierarchy of innovation. It takes so little time to spark innovation and watch it ignite in all outlets and multiple price points.

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TONSORIAL TIMES

Dwayne Thompson, aka The Barber Ambassador, is the CEO of The Fade Club, LLC and vice president of marketing and sales for Against the Grain Magazine. Thompson wears many hatshe is a blog radio host for Against the Grain Radio, hes the founder of the Barber Academy, former vice president of corporate affairs for the Black

Barbershop Health Outreach Program and he is also a dynamic writer and educator. Against the Grain Magazine, the Barbershop Lifestyle Publication is designed to esteem the barber and grow the barbering industry through education and innovation. For more information, visit www.againstthegrainmagazine.com. The Fade Club, LLC is a barber management and consulting rm established to leverage the marketability of celebrity barbers and product companies directly connected to the barbering industry.


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A New DirectionWelcome to 2013 and welcome to my new and improved segment focused on the franchises, barbershops, and beauty and barber schools connected to the hair care industry. Together we will explore the business of the hair care industry and the people, products and services provided to these establishments. You may notice a title change for my 2013 segment from Against the Grain to Tonsorial Times which is the title of my new of cial barbershop trade publication. Over the past few months, I have addressed questions about the meaning of the title created for the new publication and the overall impact the publication will have on the industry. For those of you who are not familiar with the term Tonsorial, here is the of cial meaning. Tonsorial tonsorial. Adjective: of or relating to barbering or a barber and the services they provide. The barbering industry has come a long way while increasing the value, services and products we provide to customers since I personally became active in the industry in 2001. This segment is evidence of the resurgence of the interest in the tonsorial practice. There are hundreds if not thousands of students graduating from schools all over the country and hundreds of new franchises, salons and barbershops opening their doors for clients who will need their expertise, yet we lack the information and channels of communication to address the knowledge gaps which exist in the industry. Barbers and stylist are learn

Documents

The Kick-Off Issue