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The Scottish Terrier Haircut
By Three C’s Kennel
A short guide to Grooming the Scottish Terrier using the “pet quality”
technique.
Three C’s “Maxine” before and after grooming
Equipment You Will Need
Clippers
Blade #10
Blades, #7F, #5F, #4 (depending on the
length you prefer)
Scissors or Shears
Comb (medium tooth)
Slicker Brush
Thinning Shears
Important Note: The step by step grooming process is illustrated
with a Wheaton Scottish Terrier so that the pattern and details of the
cut can be easily seen. It is recommended to use a blade no shorter
than a #5 blade on the backs of Wheaton Scotties. Otherwise, the
blade goes too deeply, destroying the Scottie’s undercoat. A blade
that cuts too closely on the back will leave tracks and unsightly gaps
in the coat. You want the coat to appear smooth and even. The
shaven/clipped areas should taper smoothly into the unclipped areas.
It is best to do a “rough” cut before the bath and then a more thorough
cut after the bath and after the Scottie is completely dried. Otherwise,
the hair doesn’t lie well for the finishing touches.
Wheaten Scottie after being groomed
1) Brush the entire coat with the slicker brush. Follow up with the comb to make certain there are no
tangles. It is important to get all tangles out of the coat before you begin clipping to ensure a smooth,
even cut. Tangles cause the clippers to gap the coat.
Figure 1-2
Clip in the direction of the arrows.
2) Using the #10 or #7F blade, clip the top of the head. Start at the base of the eyebrows and cut backward
along the base of the skull and between the ears. Careful, not to cut too close the sides of the
ears. Cut the eyebrow with the edge of the clipper so that it’s squared off.
3) See figure (2) With the clippers using a #10 blade holding it
just below the eye line, taper into the jaw area. Leave the hair in front of the ear for now.
Figure 3 Figure 4 Figure 5
4) Clip the jaw area using a #7F or #10 blade. As shown in Figure 2-3. Shave down from the outer
corners of the eyes to within ¾” of the corners of the mouth, by trimming the jaw up to the whisker line
(defined by the large whisker dimple on the bottom edge of the jaw).
5) With the #10 blade, shave diagonally from the back edges of the ears to a point at the base of the throat.
This will form a “V” shape, starting from the outer corner of the eye, down the sides just beside the
beard, with the point of the “V” at the lower neck and going back up to the base of the ear. See Figure
2.
Figure 6
Cut with the
clipper in the
direction of the
blue arrow. Don’t
go above this line;
leave the hair in
front of the ear
full. With a #10 or
#7F. The black
lines indicate
where the shaved
area (pattern line)
begins.
Use the edge of the
clipper to square
off the eyebrow.
See Figure 3
Figure 3
The Neck shape
6) Taper the hair into the area just below the eye line. Depending on how full you want the coat to be,
you can do this with a #5F blade to leave the face more full. You can also use a #10 blade to blend the
lines and smooth the hair around the lower jaw up to the eye line. The #10 blade is to be used very
lightly, just enough to blend the hair lines together.
7) See Figure 7. Leave a triangle shaped “tuft” of hair on the front edges of each ear, from half way along
the base on the outside. You can cut the hair inside the ear being careful not to get into the “tuft” area
with a #10 blade. I like to leave hair on the back of the ear and it can be trimmed with the scissors.
Using the scissors or shears, carefully cut the hair around the outside of the ear, front and back. On the
front side of the ear, cut from about one inch up from the base of the ear to the tip of the ear making a
smooth cut.
8) See Figures 7-8. Fold the ear in half from the tip to the base. Comb the tuft hair in front of the ear out
smooth. Make a triangle cut from the base to the tip of the ear. The cut, using the scissors, is about ¾”
to 1” from the base of the ear to the tip of the ear. Comb out several times and continue trimming until
it forms a straight, smooth line to the tip. Scissor the edges of the ears to neaten them up. Clean up any
other remaining hair not part of the ear tuft. Repeat the same procedure for the other ear.)
Figure 4
Ears before being trimmed
Figure 5
Tipped ear and “tuft” of hairs left shown
unclipped with the ear folded, cut from the
base of the tuft of the ear to the tip of the
ear.
Figure 6
Taper the hair up3/4” from the tip
Figure 7
Folding the ear in half, making a triangle
Cut from the base to the tip of the ear.
Comb out and do it again.
Figure 8 Comb out several times and continue trimming until it forms a straight, smooth line to the tip
9) Comb the eyebrows forward. With the #10 blade, very gently and carefully go over the top of the
eyebrows, removing any curl. Be certain not to cut deeply into the eyebrows. Next, fold the eyebrows
back exposing the eyes and cut the “natural” eyebrows that may impair a dog’s vision. The “natural”
eyebrows are the extra line of hair just under the full eyebrows.
10) Scissor the inner corners of the eyes. When cutting the inner corners of the eyes, cut directly with the
grain of the hair instead of cutting across the hair. It will blend more evenly, and not show a gap in the
hair on the bridge of the nose and corner of the eye. Cut between the eyebrow and the inner corner of
the eye in a 45 degree angle on both sides of the eye, forming an upside down “V.”
Figure 9
Eyebrows combed forward
Figure 10
Trimming the “natural” eyebrows
Figure 11
Trimming the inner corners of the eyes
using the scissors / shears
11) After all the wild hair has been cut around the eye, comb the eyebrow down and straight. Use the
scissors to cut alongside the side of the head and eyebrow into the lower edge of the ear. This should
be a smooth line. Bring the scissors up to meet the eyebrow when cutting.
Figure 12
12) Scissor-trim, starting at the end of the eyebrow closest to the edge of the nose, to the corners near the
outside of the eye. This will form a sharp point by the base of the nose to the outside corner of the eye.
Figure 13
13) When properly cut, the eyebrow, from the side view, will appear to have a curl up over the eye, and
will not obstruct the dog’s forward vision. With the #7F or #10 blades, finish the head by clipping the
outside of the eyebrows and blending them smoothly into the head.
Figure 14
14) Lightly scissor any straggly or stray hairs around the edges and sides of the beard. The beard should
appear long and straight. You can also use thinning shears to make the beard long and straight. Often
times it’s more effective to trim the beard fairly short to prevent tangles later.
Figure 15-16
Finished head front and side view
15) With the #8½, #7 or #5 blade (depending on the length you prefer), start at the base of the skull and clip
down the back and over the top of the tail.
Figure 17
16) With the same blade, clip down the sides of the neck to the tops of the shoulders and stopping
approximately 2 ½ -3” above the elbow. You can trim over the back into the upper thigh and trim this
area fairly short blending into the skirts.
Sides of neck Shoulders Elbow
Figure 18
17) Clip down the chest to about 1” above the breast bone.
Figure 19
This should be your pattern line at this point
18) From the clip you have already made on the back, clip down the sides, blending as you go. Continue
trimming over the rear of the rump, going down the upper thigh in a line that blends into the pattern
line of the sides, leaving skirt across the body. When viewed from the side, the pattern should be a
straight, blended line that runs from the shoulders, all the way across the body, to the hips-rear.
Thinning shears may also be used to help blend the shaven/unshaven areas.
Figure 20
19) With the same blade, continue around and under the tail, making sure both pattern lines meet on either
side on the rump/rear area.
Figure 21
The pattern line on each side should flow with the rest of the pattern line on the sides of the body and meet each
other evenly under the tail.
20) Clip down the top half of the tail and blend down either side of the bottom fringe. Comb the fringe of
hair downward and scissor the lower edge, making it wide at the base and taper it to a point all the way
to the tip. You want the tail to look like a big fat carrot shape. The base of the carrot should be full
and taper smoothly into the rear area.
Figure 23-24
Tail before and after being trimmed
21) Brush the hair around the feet down and out, and scissor around them in a circle to give a neat
appearance. Do not cut the feet too short. The hair should cover the toenails.
Figure 25
Photo illustrates rear foot
22) Scissors-trim ½” to 1” off the rear legs slightly trimming an angle on the front side of the rear leg so
that it tapers into the skirt. The bottom of the rear legs should slightly taper into the feet. Refer to
Figure 21. The angle should give each leg definition so that it does not completely blend into the skirt.
Trim the front legs straight down all the way around the leg, approximately ½” to 1” off. The cut you
make on the front legs should also give definition to the front legs and not completely blend into the
skirt. Comb the chest hair downward and scissor the lower edge straight and even. Comb the belly
fringe (skirt) downward and scissor the lower edge evenly, following the contour of the body. Refer to
figure 21-22.The belly and chest fringe should hang the same length underneath and then taper to the
flanks at the rear.
See photos on sides and legs
Figure 26-27
Trimming the legs
Trimming the side skirts
The Side skirts should be cut at a slight angle. Beginning at the rear bottom of the front
foot, cut toward the rear leg. Make the angle of the cut as shown in the illustration. It will
require a couple cuts, combing the side skirt out then cutting along the same line until its
smooth.
Finishing legs & skirt and chest
Figure 29
Figure 30
Take the dog outside and let them shake and run around a bit. Look at your grooming job and notice any area’s
that need a little touch up.
Congratulations……you did it!