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PROJEKT OPTIS PRO FT, reg. č.: CZ.1.07/2.2.00/28.0312 JE SPOLUFINANCOVÁN EVROPSKÝM SOCIÁLNÍM FONDEM A STÁTNÍM ROZPOČTEM ČESKÉ REPUBLIKY Warp Knit Spacer Fabric Construction and Produkt Development Referent: Prof. Dr.- Ing. Katerina Machova

Warp Knit Spacer Fabric - Ft.Tul.cz · Underlap Overlap . 22.05.2013 Warp Knit Spacer Fabric 8 Open loop Closed loop loop head loop leg loop foot ... 22.05.2013 Warp Knit Spacer Fabric

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  • PROJEKT OPTIS PRO FT, reg. .: CZ.1.07/2.2.00/28.0312 JE SPOLUFINANCOVN EVROPSKM SOCILNM FONDEM A STTNM ROZPOTEM ESK REPUBLIKY

    Warp Knit Spacer Fabric

    Construction and Produkt Development

    Referent: Prof. Dr.- Ing. Katerina Machova

  • Weft Knit Warp Knit

    22.05.2013 2 Warp Knit Spacer Fabric

  • 22.05.2013 Warp Knit Spacer Fabric 3

    Weft Knit Machine - Single Face Fabric

  • 22.05.2013 Warp Knit Spacer Fabric 4

    RL Kettenwirkerei

  • 22.05.2013 Warp Knit Spacer Fabric 5

    7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0

    Nadelbarrenbezeichnung

    Controlside of the Machine (Electronics, cam or Chain link)

  • 22.05.2013 Warp Knit Spacer Fabric 6

    7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0

    Maschenbildung

  • 22.05.2013 Warp Knit Spacer Fabric 7

    7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0

    Maschenbildung

    Underlap

    Overlap

  • 22.05.2013 Warp Knit Spacer Fabric 8

    Open loop Closed loop

    loop head

    loop leg

    loop foot

    underlap

  • 22.05.2013 Warp Knit Spacer Fabric 9

    7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0

    Maschenbildung

    open loop closed loop

  • 22.05.2013 Warp Knit Spacer Fabric 10

    Guide bar with yarn: brings the yarn to the needle due right and left motion

  • 22.05.2013 Warp Knit Spacer Fabric 11

    Double Face Warp Knit

  • 22.05.2013 Warp Knit Spacer Fabric 12

  • 22.05.2013 Warp Knit Spacer Fabric 13

    threading scheme

    Pillar Stitch

    V 0

    1

    H 0

    1

    F B

    F B

    1 0

    F B

    F B

  • 22.05.2013 Warp Knit Spacer Fabric 14

    threading scheme

    Pillar Stitch

    F 0

    1

    B 0

    1

    F B

    F B

    1 0

    F B

    F B

    front loop

  • 22.05.2013 Warp Knit Spacer Fabric 15

    threading scheme

    Pillar Stitch

    F 0

    1

    B 0

    1

    F B

    F B

    1 0

    F B

    F B

    back loop

  • 22.05.2013 Warp Knit Spacer Fabric 16

    Building of 3D Structure

    first layer will be build only on front needle row

    middle layer will be build on both needle row

    second layer will be build only on back needle row

  • 22.05.2013 Warp Knit Spacer Fabric 17

    F B

    F B

    F B

    F B

    F B

    F B

    F B

    F B

    2 1 0 2 1 0 2 1 0 F B

    F B

    F B

    F B

    front layer middle layer back layer

    10/ 1-1 // 01 / 0-1 // 11/ 1-0 //

  • Warp Knit Produkts

    Offecct

    22.05.2013 Warp Knit Spacer Fabric 18

  • 22.05.2013 Warp Knit Spacer Fabric 19

    Development of 3D Vent by Steynbach

    3D Vent is extrem function material without chemical additives. It ist combination of: Wooll Polyester Polyamid

  • Development of jackets

    with integrated spacer fabrics

    22.05.2013 Warp Knit Spacer Fabric 20

    Conditions to consider: - using of spacer fabric and ultralight PA weaving fabric - no seems of spacer fabric to feel on the skin - no seems of spacer fabric to see due the cover material - cut construcktion of cover material and inlay - processing of hems

  • Development of jackets design draft

    22.05.2013 Warp Knit Spacer Fabric 21

  • Development of jackets cut development

    22.05.2013 Warp Knit Spacer Fabric 22

    Man Body

    Body contour chest: 100 cm

    U= 2 plus 2 cm for s.fabric plus 2,5 cm for c.fabric

    Spacer contour : 113,1 cm

    Cover contour : 116,2 cm

    rmodel = 16 cm rspacer = 18 cm rcover = 18,5 cm

  • Man Body

    Development of jackets cut development

    22.05.2013 Warp Knit Spacer Fabric 23

    3 cm distributed on 4 cut parts Cover fabric will be to 0,75 cm expanded in the width in comparison to spacer fabric.

    Body contour chest: 100 cm

    U= 2 plus 2 cm for s.fabric plus 2,5 cm for c.fabric

    Spacer contour : 113,1 cm

    Cover contour : 116,2 cm

    rmodel = 15,9 cm rspacer = 18 cm rcover = 18,5 cm

  • Development of jackets cut development

    22.05.2013 Warp Knit Spacer Fabric 24

    0,325 0,325 0,75 0,75

  • Development of jackets cut development

    22.05.2013 Warp Knit Spacer Fabric 25

    0,3

    0,

    3

    0,3

    0,

    3

  • Development of jackets seem development

    22.05.2013 Warp Knit Spacer Fabric 26

  • Development of jackets seem development

    22.05.2013 Warp Knit Spacer Fabric 27

  • Development of jackets seem development

    22.05.2013 Warp Knit Spacer Fabric 28

  • Development of jackets

    22.05.2013 Warp Knit Spacer Fabric 29

    Unexpected Problems: - processing of zipper - processing of edges of the jackets

  • 22.05.2013 Warp Knit Spacer Fabric 30

    Development of jackets - Result

    Snmek 1Snmek 2Snmek 3Snmek 4Snmek 5Snmek 6Snmek 7Snmek 8Snmek 9Snmek 10Snmek 11Snmek 12Snmek 13Snmek 14Snmek 15Snmek 16Snmek 17Snmek 18Snmek 19Snmek 20Snmek 21Snmek 22Snmek 23Snmek 24Snmek 25Snmek 26Snmek 27Snmek 28Snmek 29Snmek 30