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Telling the Story of How Gotham Eats No.10 March/April 2010

RUSS & DAUGHTERS’ KEYS TO LOXMARCUS SAMUELSSON’S MELTING POT MUSE

OCTOGENARIAN ORACLE JOAN GUSSOWMember of Edible Communities

THE BAKING ISSUE FRANNY’S BEER HERE

WHERE’S THE BEEF? FRY OIL = FUEL

Member of Edible Communities

Celebrating the Borough’s Food Culture, Season by Season No. 16 Winter 2010

SENSIBLE SUSHI LOCAVORE LOAF SPIRITED SPUDS

WINE COUNTRY ELDER PINTAURO’S PEARS


No. 18 Winter 2009ediblee a s t e n d

Celebrating the Harvest of the Hamptons and North Fork

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e a s t e n dCelebrating the Harvest of the Hamptons and North Fork No. 33 Winter 2012

FOOD PANTRY FARMS MICROGREENS WINTER CLAMMING

MARY’S MARVELOUS MALI B SWEETS PINOT BLANC BEER PROJECT

THURSDAYS 9:30 PM EST

ON COOKING CHANNEL

The

CHEESEFor more information on Jason please visit:

jasonthebigcheese.com

THE BIG CHEESE

2 edible EAST END WINTER 2012

CONTENTS6 NOTABLE EDIBLES

Red-Stained Hands Club Green Thumb for HireFood Politics

Love Lane MarketCulling the HerdFarm-to-Food Pantry

18 FARMGIRL ANGST

THE BLIGHT CHRONICLES, PART I

21 BEHIND THE BOTTLE

LIEB 2010 PINOT BLANCAn homage to Alsace for winter stews, oyster pan roasts and East End chowders.

23 A WINEMAKER’S WONDERINGS

THE 2011 VINTAGEThree vineyard tenders describe one of the strangest seasons in memory.

24 ARTISANS

NOT YOUR ORDINARY SWEETSA North Fork cake baker, a South Fork weaver, and their confectionary creations.

26 EDIBLE ENTREPRENEUR

LITTLE GREENS, BIG FLAVORElfin carrot tops, micro mustard and radish sprouts emerge from an Amagansett greenhouse.

28 BOOKS

FREEDOM TO COOKA diabetic chef relies on flavor and texture, not carbs and calories.

31 PAIRINGS

COCOAVINOA chocolate sommelier goes head-to-head with Long Island wine.

35 SOCIAL SUDS

STRONG RYELANDThe region’s first collaborative beer delivers a taste from both forks.

36 ON GOOD LAND

PLANT A ROW FOR THE HUNGRYAt EECO Farm, a plot is dedicated to supplying South Fork food pantries.

40 BACK OF THE HOUSE

MARY’S MARVELOUSThis cozy Main Street spot is crammed full of all-day, from-scratch nourishment.

46 IN THE KITCHEN WITH

APRIL GORNIK AND ERIC FISCHLTwo painters thrive on eggs, homemade bread and ambitious dinner parties.

52 CULT OF TASTE

FATHER AND MOTHER NATUREJoe and Alexandra Macari and their bottles brimming with biodiversity.

57 HAPPENINGS

A COUPLE WEDS IN WATER MILLInternational fare for a pioneering state ceremony.

70 HEIRLOOMS

CHEESE LADDERS, FIRKINS, BABY CAGES AND OTHER COOKING CURIOSITIESWhy should historical societies look in their pantries?

75 VISUAL VICTUALS

COLDSEASON CLAMMINGThere are hearty harvesters behind your winter chowder.

88 AFTERTASTE

THE APPLE PUSHERS

COVER AND THIS PAGEMali B Sweets, Greenport.By Randee Daddona

For the past four years, brewmaster Garrett Oliver has been working on a massive project. It’s the ultimate beer collaboration, but it’s not a beer. Published this September by Oxford University Press, it’s The Oxford Companion to Beer, the most comprehensive book on beer ever published, featuring 160 experts covering more than 1,100 subjects. It’s a momentous thing, so Garrett (Editor-in-Chief), Horst Dornbusch (Associate Editor, writer, scholar, man-about-town) and Thomas Kraus-Weyermann (writer and master maltster) hatched a plan. Together, they brewed our next Brewmaster’s Reserve beer, called The Companion. Thomas created special new floor malts for The Compan-ion, which is brewed in an old style called “wheat wine”, a wheat-based equivalent to barley wine. The floor malts give this beer a juicy malt character of considerable depth, 55% malted wheat gives it a surprising lightness on the palate, while our house ale yeast lends a gentle fruiti-ness. The Oxford Companion to Beer will impart knowledge, while The Companion imparts conviviality. Maybe you really can have it all?


GRIST FOR THE MILL

EDITORBrian Halweil

PUBLISHERStephen Munshin

DEPUTY EDITOREileen M. Duffy

DESIGNERBambi Edlund

PHOTO EDITORLindsay Morris

COPY EDITORCarrington Morris

CONTRIBUTORSRandee DaddonaMarilee FosterChris GangemiGwendolen GroocockCourtney MacGinleyGeraldine PluennekeKelly SmithJames Christopher TracyAmy Zavatto

CONTACT USPO Box 779Sag Harbor, NY 11963631.537.4637, [email protected]

ADVERTISINGNorth Fork: Mary Morgan,[email protected], 631.323.2320 Jack Oxee, [email protected], 631.298.7025 South Fork: [email protected], 631.537.4637

LETTERSTo write to the editor, use the addressabove or, for the quickest response, e-mail us: [email protected].

Edible East End is published five times a year. Subscription rate is $35 annually. Call the number above to inquire about advertising rates, deadlines or subscription information, or e-mail us at [email protected]. No part of this publication may be used without written permission by the publisher.

© 2011–2012. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us. Thank you.

Brian Halweil Editor

A few months ago, Eileen Roaman, a Springs resident who raises bees and chickens and keeps a home garden, had a seasonal epiphany. The number of families visiting local food pantries swells in winter, just as many nearby farmers have lost their main roadside custom-ers. So, working with the Amagansett Food Institute, Roaman quickly raised $15,000 in small and large donations, bought crops from a group of local farmers and delivered it to local pantries. “It’s tightening the circle,” Roaman said of the harmonious transaction. Pantry visitors got a wider selection of fresh produce; farmers got new customers.

In fact, there were similar motivations behind the Food Pantry Farm, a three-acre section and two hoop houses at EECO Farm in East Hampton, whose entire harvest is committed to local food pantries. Started three years ago, the farm makes weekly deliveries to five local pan-tries—upward of 16 tons a year that includes farm-stand standards like tomatoes and corn, as well as the hot peppers, collard greens and other ingredients pantry patrons are cooking with.

Tapping into unused resources—and unsuspecting generosity—was also the goal of Southold town officials who added a refrigerated cooler to make it easier for hunters to drop off excess meat, and for people in need to pick it up.

If the New Year is a good time for remembering to give back to our community, it’s also the right season to dote on our loved ones.

Consider the new crop of cupcake bakers, cake sculptors and sweets makers in our midst. Former Nassau County mayor, and new cocoa convert, Roxanne Browning has been staging

sold-out chocolate and wine tastings on the North Fork. Meanwhile, Mi-che Bacher’s Greenport sweets shop has been reinvented as Mali B Sweets, with the addition of fellow baker Nanao An-ton. The two won “Best Cake in the Nation” honors from Brides magazine, are rolling out a chocolate bar with lo-cal potato chips, and offer patrons their

latest experimental cake filling in the form of ever-changing little bonbons called “Twinks.”Mary’s Marvelous at the end of Main Street in Amagansett is a standby for locals seek-

ing such ingenious forms of nourishment as eggs Colombian, bone-warming soups, and a boutique of edible gifts, from granola to Mary Os. (This time of year, Mary’s is also the last, reliable food option for eastbound lighthouse roadtrippers.)

In the spirit of this Holiday issue, we’ve decorated the page borders with our local gift picks—from cheesemonger baskets to a Montauk-born dog food, to starter kits for the aspir-ing oyster grower in your life.

So whether you donate to a food pantry, invest in a CSA or just buy a cake from down the street, there are plenty of sweet opportunities to enjoy and support all that’s around.

There is plenty of produce available just a few miles from the pantries that serve our hungry and poor neighbors.


NOTABLE EDIBLESBY EILEEN M. DUFFY

REDSTAINED HANDS CLUB

It’s chilly, but no one seems to mind. There’s lentil soup in the Crock-Pot (for the vegetarians), as well as some delicious pulled pork and a shared fascination about how one turns grapes into wine.

On a Saturday morning in November, members of the Bella Vita Vine to Wine program were happy to be standing wrapped in scarves and down vests in a cement-floored barn watching An-thony Sannino (shown at right and below) punch down the cap on a fermenting container of cabernet sauvignon.

The small room lined with tanks built to hold the juice that would make one barrel—or 23 cases—of wine smells like, well, a winery, because it is one, but that’s a simplification. It smells like conversion, which is, in a sense, rotting and renewal, sweetness and energy and funk (and fruit-fly bait). Winemaking is elemental and attractive.

The Sanninos, Lisa and Anthony, bought their vineyard from Harold Watts of Ternhaven Cellars—one of the North Fork’s first wave of vineyard owners—in 2006, 5.25 acres of cabernet and merlot planted in 1989. The idea was to sell the grapes and build a bed-and-breakfast in the middle of the vines. Both goals were accomplished. But the desire to make wine, instilled in Anthony from his family roots in Ischia, an island off the coast of Naples, kept tugging at them.

How to start up their own winemaking business while ac-knowledging the significant investment in equipment? Vine to Wine was born.

In 2007 the couple promoted the idea that anyone could make wine, proposing that members contribute $4,500 up front for a year of the winemaking experience and the guarantee of going home with the equivalent of one barrel of wine.

Enough people signed on, shown nothing but an empty room,

and paid in advance, allowing the couple to buy all the equipment they needed. Kind of like a wine CSA.

Today, the Sanninos average about 20 members per vintage, with membership including couples and up to eight individuals.

The members start with harvest, on Columbus Day weekend, when there is usually something ripe—whether it be white or red grapes—depending on the growing season. The weekend is like a party. The children come, and pumpkins are all around. Once the grapes are picked, the members come back periodically to watch, and help, as the grapes make their progress to the bottle. There’s crushing and racking and stabilizing and blending and bottling.

The members are involved in the decision making, and all go home with the same wine: a little bit of white, a little bit of rosé and a little bit of red, which comes out to about $16 per bottle.

The experience and the wine are enough to keep people com-ing back. John Arini of Setauket has joined his wife, Terry, for her second year. She was a home winemaker, and now he’s an accom-plice, asking questions about fermentation time and winemaker intent. After tasting the mid-fermentation cabernet, Terry says it was like when you’re baking a cake and eat the dough before you bake it. What’s more elemental than that?

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|NOTABLE EDIBLES

GREEN THUMB FOR HIRE

Not many fathers refer to their children as free-range chickens, but for Renato Stanford of Southold, the description is apt. Th at’s because his yard is where the bulk of his family’s food comes from.

Th is former effi ciency expert with a career at Dupont behind him expe-rienced a life-changing event 10 years ago when he was in a car accident that took his wife’s life. Since then he has been dedicated to growing his own food, going to the supermarket as little as possible and taking advantage of what he says comes naturally to him: making things grow.

To do so, he built a hoop house in his yard to be able to provide his fam-ily with fresh produce year round. He relies on local honey for sweetener and spends days canning and preserving when his outdoor garden gives up its bounty at the end of the summer growing season. Th is fall, he says, he put away 200 jars of tomatoes and 75 jars of dill pickles. Th is was after he and his family ate all the cucumbers they could handle. “I was borderline sick of them,” he says, “but now I miss them.”

His hoop house is essentially a dugout; one enters by going three steps down so the beds are waist high. Th is helps to preserve the heat, which is all captured solar energy. He uses no chemical fertilizer and no pesticides. He’s thinking about adding chickens and he says his son’s favorite food is arugula.

When this kind of thing works out for someone, it’s hard not to be an evangelist. Th is summer Stanford set up a booth at the Westhampton Beach Farmers

Market off ering to build personalized hoop houses, so everyone could have fresh greens year round.

Th e display caught the eye of Bill and Susan Groner of Bedford, New York. “Th ere was a brilliant idea right in our face,” says Bill. “We just couldn’t resist.” Th e couple had never even had a garden before, but was taken by the idea and, of course, Stanford’s contagious enthusiasm. (Once Stanford starts talking, it’s hard not to imagine your own little year-round garden just outside the back door.) “He’s amaz-ing,” says Bill. “You have to cherish people with positive energy like Renato.”

Stanford credits his Italian upbringing with instilling in him the desire to grow, to grow anything, anywhere. He remembers his Great Uncle Sebastian putting him in his garden as a child and letting him dig and plant. Th is led to fi nding a space, any space, to plant tomatoes. Th e hunt for space continues. So far, Stanford had helped Southold Schools plant their community garden and is working on a project with the Concourse House in the Bronx, a shelter for homeless families.

He sees limitless possibilities to help anyone take advantage of the land, sun and water readily at our disposal. “I know how to do this,” he says. “I don’t even know how I know.”

HOLIDAY PARTY FIXINS. Coff ee & Cake. Late afternoon pick-me-ups—or morning get-me-goings—Butta’ Cakes in Greenport and Hamptons Coff ee Company make for good gift certifi cate ideas. Butta’, buttacakes.com, will put together holiday platters, and HCC, hamptoncoff ee.com, will supply an urn for a crowd.

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LUBRICATE YOUR FURNITURE SHOPPING. Vine and Antiques Sherwood House Vineyards’ tasting house at 1291 Main Road in Jamesport shares space with Material Objects, an antique shop run by a collector/builder. Taste some wine, move into the store and fi nd a country antique.

|NOTABLE EDIBLES

FOOD POLITICS

Despite widespread budget tightening across the nation, decision-makers in New York are banking that there’s money in matters re-lated to food. Both the Suff olk County Legislature and offi cials up in Albany are joining Long Island farmers and local nonprofi ts to make major infrastructure investments to extend the local growing season and expand the sales of all things grown on Long Island.

State Senator Ken LaValle supported a $3.5 million grant, and the town of Riverhead donated 50 acres, to build the 8,300-square-foot Agriculture Consumer Science Center at the Enterprise Park in Calverton (known as EPCAL). Th e space, which could be fi nished as early as next summer, will have the equipment to help farmers—as well as aspiring food artisans—develop and process products made from local ingredients with the help of researchers and scien-tists from Stony Brook University, Brookhaven National Laboratory and the NYS Small Business Development Center. (Finally, a place to deal with the surfeit of tomatoes in September and October.)

On the heels of this groundbreaking, a coalition that includes both Nassau and Suff olk counties, Cornell Cooperative Exten-sion of Suff olk County, Long Island Farm Bureau, Peconic Land Trust, Sustainable Long Island, Long Island Wine Council, North Shore Land Alliance and Stony Brook Incubator for Agriculture

and Consumer Science has developed a proposal they’ve sent to Empire State Development asking for an initial $5 million for their Comprehensive Program for Sustainable Agriculture on Long Island. Th e brainchild of farmer Paulette Satur, the proposal includes 1,000 acres of land at EPCAL to rent for small-scale agri-culture, a mobile slaughterhouse for the region’s growing number of farmers keeping poultry and livestock, a mobile farmers market to reach underserved communities, a 100,000-square-foot refrig-erated food-distribution hub, and training programs for aspiring farmers—part of a program they’re calling “Farms for the Future.”

All told, the goal is to turn “Grown on Long Island” into a brand people will reach for like cheese from Roquefort or toma-toes from San Marzano.

In a related eff ort, Suff olk County Legislator Vivian Viloria-Fisher has started a Food Policy Council for the county, for which public hear-ings started this fall. Th e goals of the council include ensuring school and county institutions give preference to buying local, increasing ac-cess to healthy food, reducing pesticide use, and boosting use of locally grown ingredients at existing food-processing facilities in the county. Like similar food policy councils that have sprouted in cities and states around the country, the body will bring together farmers, food compa-nies and the public to guide long-term food-related planning. Ph

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|NOTABLE EDIBLES

LOVE LANE MARKET

At Michael and Patti Avella’s new European-style market in Mat-tituck, the yellow-pine fl oor is recycled from a farm in Connecti-cut, the tin ceiling is stamped from original dyes and the window frames are reclaimed from a 1920’s industrial building. Mike and Patti dreamed of a food emporium for years, and so when Michael Bourguigon, owner of the Mattituck Village Market, decided to sell his business last year, it didn’t take them long to make a decision. Th ey closed on the circa-1928 property in November 2010, renovat-ed with the help of architect Chris Smith (who designed Nobu and Dylan Prime in New York), and offi cially opened this past October.CIA-trained chef and butcher John Nordin, who has worked for both Tom Colicchio and Todd English, further bolsters the team.

Mike’s goal is to create a welcoming place for “adventurous home cooks.” To that end, local and seasonal items sit alongside high-qual-ity imported artisanal products—olive oil, vinegar, soy sauce, ghee, dried porcini mushrooms, salt-packed capers and anchovies, and salami, lardo and pancetta from Salumeria Biellese in Manhattan.

Th ere are pizzas cooking in a wood-burning oven; sushi pre-pared every morning by a Japanese chef, homemade sausages, soups and sandwiches. Next spring, they are planning to add a

donut machine and a Japanese noodle station.Th e demand has been greater than the supply of grassfed beef

from nearby McCall’s Ranch and Vineyard’s herd of Charolais cattle. Mike (shown above) says he is “unable to keep up with it,” and will be adding beef from a grassfed Hereford herd in Rhode Island to supplement. Another strong seller is the Crescent Farms duck. In the style of a European open-air market—Mike lived in Italy for many years—the ducks are steamed for half an hour be-fore being turned on a rotisserie over baskets of herb-and-garlic-tossed potatoes that soak up the luscious drippings. D’Artagnan free-range chickens are on the grill, too.

On a lovely fall Saturday afternoon, my husband and I stopped in for duck, potatoes and roasted garlic. We added some fresh greens from a local farm stand for a quick salad, opened a bottle of ros from Croteaux vineyards and had one of the best dinners of early autumn.

(Note: Call ahead for beef to avoid disappointment. Not only is supply limited, reservations determine the way beef is cut.)

—Susan Yager

lovelanemarket.com

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BOOK AND A BEER. Suds Stocking Stuff er. Garrett Oliver, brewmaster of the Brooklyn Brewery, edited the formidable, informative and entertaining Oxford Companion to Beer, available in a boxed set with a limited-edition, old-style wheat beer that’s perfect for sipping while reading. brooklynbrewery.com


|NOTABLE EDIBLES

CULLING THE HERD

Whether you think of them as Bambi or as car-wrecking, shrub-eating nuisances, the fact is there are too many deer on the East End of Long Island. And from October 1 through January 31, the New York State Department of Environmental Conservation declares hunting season. (Th e rules for Suff olk County allow bowhunting for the entire season; shotguns are allowed in January but only with a special permit and on weekdays.)

Ethical hunters, as DEC offi cer, hunter and Greenport resident Tom Gadomski puts it, however, do not kill deer for sport. In fact they do not use the term “kill”; they prefer “harvest” because whatever deer they take they make sure does not go to waste.

Th e town of Southold recognized this dilemma, says Jeff Standish, the deputy director of the department of public works, and last year rented a refrigerated truck and put it behind the community center on Peconic Lane. Th e idea was to have a place where hunters could drop off harvested deer they could not use themselves. Th e deer, under the auspices of the New York–based Venison Donation Coalition, are then transported to a butcher who breaks down the animals and donates the meat to soup kitchens. Th e coalition has been active since 1999 and has processed nearly 340 tons of venison since that time.

In the case of Southold, last year the town collected 162 deer. Over the winter, Standish says the town bought a used refrigerated box, overhauled it, and now have a permanent drop-off site.

Most of the harvested deer go to Fish and Wildlife Unlimited Taxidermy in Oakdale for butcher-ing, but residents, who can fi ll out a form, take some of it. Standish says one woman, who has a dog with food allergies that can only eat venison, paid to have one butchered to use for dog food.

Th e drop-off also accepts roadkill, and Gadomski has donated deer illegally taken by hunt-ers without the DEC-approved tags that indicate a valid hunting license.

Normally, says Gadomski, he would harvest maybe three deer per year, one for himself and others for friends, which he butchers himself. But now that he knows the meat will go to good use, he will harvest up to seven per year.

Some of the take are big does or bucks, but Gadomski says he is seeing an increasing number of smaller deer. “Th ey’re not eating as well.”

Recipe from the New York Conservation Offi cer’s Cookbook

LORI’S PAPRIKA VENISON1 c. sliced onion1 clove minced garlic¾ c. ketchup1 T. Worcestershire1 T. brown sugarSalt2 t. paprika½ t. dry mustard ¾ c. water¾ c. white wine2 lbs. venison (scraps work well)

Sauté venison, onions and garlic until venison is brown. In bowl, stir until smooth: ketchup, Worcestershire, sugar, salt, paprika, mustard, water and wine. Add to venison. Cover and simmer until meat is cooked. Add fl our to thicken if desired.

Serve over egg noodles.

From Colonel D. W. Brewer, Central Office, Albany. (Officer Gadomski marked this as “very good” in his copy.)

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|NOTABLE EDIBLES

INHALE, EXHALE. Start Relaxing. Class cards at Yoga Shanti in Sag Harbor help you balance, while balancing your budget. For $180 per month, yogis and yoginis can take an unlimited number of classes with a six-month commitment. yogashanti.com

FARMTOFOOD PANTRY

Th ree food pantries on the South Fork, East Hampton, Springs and Amagansett regularly feed hundreds of families, and during the winter that number can soar close to 1,000.

Th ere are also farmers whose venues to sell their wares diminish in the winter as the crowds that fre-quent farm stands have left for the season.

To Springs resident Eileen Roaman a link was obvi-ous: organize a way to have farmers sell their produce to the pantries through donations expressly for that purpose. “Th at way, the money would stay in the com-munity,” she says, “the families would have fresh nutri-tious food and the farmers would have customers. It’s tightening the circle.” Roaman made an initial pledge and then sent out an e-mail asking for donations; soon the total was $15,000.

Enter Amanda Merrow and Katie Baldwin of Am-ber Waves Farm in Amagansett, a nonprofi t that has as part of its mission to help feed the community. Under their 501(c)3 status, that money was now 100 percent tax-deductible and 100 percent going directly toward the purchase of food.

All of the food is grown by farms in East Hamp-ton and Southampton, including Amber Waves, Bal-sam Farms, Quail Hill Farm, the Milk Pail and Sunset Beach Farm. In the fi rst two weeks, the Farm to Food Pantry Program was able to deliver 1,550 pounds of produce. Families pick up boxes of food once per week and now, in addition to staples, they will fi nd apples, butternut squash, eggplant, peppers, potatoes and winter greens.

In the past, says Gabrielle Scarpaci, executive direc-tor of the East Hampton food pantry, which relies on do-nations, farms have donated produce to feed the 44,000 mouths that came through her door last year. Now the farmers are being compensated for their work and the plan is to keep growing. According to Roaman, a $25 donation will provide a family with fruits and vegetables for two weeks; $100 will cover two months and $300 will underwrite a family’s share for the six-month fall and winter season. Baldwin and Merrow have set a fund-raising goal of $75,000.

Donations can be made to the Farm to Food Pantry Program,c/o Amber Waves Farm, PO Box 2623, Amagansett, NY 11930. Ph

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Grumble, grumble, shuffl e, spit. Unlike most perusing this maga-zine, I am sick of food. I am sick of worrying about it, sick of think-ing about it, reading about it, going to lengthy dinners made length-ier by everyone talking about it. Th is is post-mortem time for me, when the season is put to bed, mostly. Th ere is not so much picking and fi eldwork; instead it is wrap-up and put away and think.

In 2009, the Northeast sustained an outbreak of late blight. Th is was the fi rst time in my career that I had to farm through such challenging conditions. In June, the disease was confi rmed to have wiped out a commercial planting on the North Fork and large gar-dens were gone in Bridgehampton. It was raining again and there was nothing else for us to do but try to allay or confi rm our fears.

Dean and I decided to drive around Sagg and look at other farmer’s fi elds. As we neared a fi eld that was rumored to be sus-picious, I began to shake. My heart pounded in my ears so hard that I was partially deafened to outside noise. I began to sputter, my voice getting shrill with panic, as I fretted aloud. My brother looked at me, “Now you’ve got to chill out!” he barked. And then sternly, “Christ, it’s only tomatoes.” Th en, less sternly, “Or potatoes.”

In 2011 the Northeast was hit by blight again. Th ere are some garden pests, viral, bacterial and even animal that a farmer can en-dure. I believe a little illness can be good for the overall immune sys-tem. Phytophthora means plant destroyer. In a place like Sagaponack, with our heavy fogs and morning dews, with our persistent, often damp breeze, a little blight is all you need to start a devastating war of man versus fungi. I like to believe I do all I can do—homegrown plants, monitored for vigor all spring, are staked and trellised. I spray. But in the end my success in surviving an outbreak will depend on my neighbors’ success. My neighbors are not only farmers. Empty houses with automatic sprinklers in their kitchen gardens and no one monitoring real need, such vectors line almost every fi eld.

Th is year, toward the middle of June, on the eighth day with “no-spray” conditions, a neighboring farmer stopped by to tell me he had blight in his tomatoes. It was a pretty big spot. I told him how sorry I was to hear this, wished him luck and then, after he’d left, I suc-cumbed to a set of anxiety-sparked dry heaves. It was late in the day, so I considered not running to the shop and sharing the bad news

with my brother. Why not let him have one more, decent night’s sleep? But misery needed company. I raise two acres of tomatoes—

Dean’s got one hundred and fi fty of potatoes. He’d want to know. All the employees have gone home, I fi nd him in the machine room—the barn where custom parts are made to save the day—he’s calmly working on something. For the next half hour we talked about man-agement strategy. We talked about eff ective fungicides and we talked about windows of opportunity; would there ever be one? What if it just keeps raining? We have no machines for fi xing weather. What am I going to do? Outside, the drenching sky is turning to night. Dean reaches down under the cluttered desk that doubles as a work-bench. He lifts and opens an elegant blue box that holds a gift from last Christmas. Snuggled down on a sapphire pillow is a special edi-tion of some very fi ne scotch. “We could get in the bottle?”

Th is scene between us, drinking high-end stuff out of Styro-foam cups, might seem sordid or sinful for more than one reason. I know we should have had glasses. But worse, I know of many farms that were lost to alcohol. After a few hard seasons, I more fully understand the smooth liquor’s persuasive draw. We check to see our cups aren’t melting, and then toast our fortunate lot. 2011 went on to be the wettest year on record.

I am often asked what I do in the winter—after I’ve fi nished with caulifl ower, cabbage, Brussels sprouts and other fall crops that have their own set of diseases caused by too much rain. Winter is short, really just December. I spend the month writing personal agricultural parodies of Broadway and popular tunes. My sister and I then turn the material into a one-performance, no-rehearsal puppet show. Th e song I’ve been singing, in my head from May to November, is usually sung by an optimistic orphan. In my production it will be an emo-tional farmer consulting Cornell Cooperative Extension.

Editor’s note: Th is is the fi rst part in an emotional series about blight. Tune in for the next installment when we will learn where the local blight came from, how the Fosters’ tomatoes and potatoes fared and what they are doing to prevent blight next tomato and potato season.

Marilee Foster farms and writes in Sagaponack.

FARMGIRL ANGST

THE BLIGHT CHRONICLES, PART IBY MARILEE FOSTER

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DELICIOUS COLLABORATION. Buy Vegetables Now. Community Supported Agriculture programs can sell out. Contact the following farms, so you can pay upfront and receive fresh produce—or eggs or fl owers—all summer long. Garden of Eve, Golden Earthworm, Sang Lee, Green Th umb, Biophilia, Quail Hill, Sylvestor Manor, and Sunset Beach Farm all have varying stages of commitment. You’ll learn to love kale even more than you thought you already did. List at edibleeastend.com.

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BEHIND THE BOTTLE

LIEB 2010 PINOT BLANCAn homage to Alsace for winter stews, oyster pan roasts and East End chowders.

BY EILEEN M. DUFFY

Th ere’s a certain plasticity to grape varieties: Th ey become diff erent things in diff erent parts of the world. Cabernet in California is an ocean and a continent away from cabernet on the left bank of the Garonne River in Bordeaux. Th e sauvignon blanc from Marlborough in New Zealand might as well come halfway around the world from the sauvignon blanc grown and produced just south of that cab-ernet in Bordeaux. (Wait, it is a half a world away.)

In a newish region like Long Island, the trick is to honor what the grapes can do here while paying homage to what has been successful in other parts of the world, to get around that anxiety of infl uence, except in this case one can drink the poetry.

Gary Madden of Lieb Family Cellars feels little anxiety about the winery’s new release: the 2010 Pinot Blanc in the style of Alsace, where the grape is one of the region’s four noble varieties.

Lieb is the only producer on the East End that bottles a single varietal pinot blanc; it’s become their signature, and so far they’ve done it in an all-dry style—during fermentation all the sugar in the grape must is turned into CO2 and alcohol—and as a sparkling wine.

In the Alsace region of France, low rainfall and south-facing slopes result in reliably ripe grapes. Reliable and ripe are not two words we can use together on Long Island, but in 2010 everyone could. It was a beautiful growing season and Madden saw the opportunity to make a pinot blanc like one fi nds in Alsace, higher in alcohol and a bit sweet: not all the sugar is converted into alcohol, a little is left to give the wine a bigger mouthfeel. Th us the wine goes better with cool weather dishes (not much red is grown in the region).

Lieb makes their wine at Premium Wine Group in Mattituck, where Mark Lieb is a partner with Rus-sell Hearn, who serves as the consulting winemaker for all their wines. Madden is the general manager.

Lieb and his wife, Kathy, bought their vineyards in 1992, and up until 1999 sold their grapes to other wineries. In 2000 the fi rst wines were released under their own label. Th e 2010 10th Anniversary Pinot Blanc commemorates that. Th e wine is sold in a fl uted bottle, like the ones found in Alsace, with the added modernity of a screw cap.

A pale straw color, the wine is bright and clear; it smells like super-ripe pear with candied pineapple and white pepper. Th e wine is spicy and lively in the mouth with tropical fruits and the pleasant heavi-ness one gets from residual sugar. Th e wine, however, has enough acid that it doesn’t directly come across as sweet. It’s balanced.

Madden fell in love with the style on a trip through Alsace years ago. A longtime fan and owner of Terverun shepherds, named after a town in Belgium, he couldn’t complete his trip, which started in Paris, without visiting Alsace. “I was a red wine drinker before that,” he says. “It made me reevaluate. It changed my palate.”

Unfortunately, due to the short, wet growing season of 2011, Madden doesn’t see a pinot blanc in this style coming out next year. But there are 2010s still at the tasting room in Mattituck. Get them for the winter stews, oyster pan roasts and chowders that are best eaten in front of a fi re. Ph

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TUROPHILES REJOICE. Local Cheeseboard. Specialty cheeses, local and artisanal, are great for party favors. Cavaniola’s Gourmet in Sag Harbor, cavaniola.com; Lucy’s Whey in East Hampton, lucyswhey.com; and Village Cheese Shop in Mattituck, 631.298.8556, all put together platters and gift boxes.


This was a strange and hard vintage; everything about it from begin-ning to end required an extraordinary amount of effort. More time, more labor, more money was expended growing the grapes and mak-ing the wines this year than anyone can remember. In the end more people than not are very happy with what they have in the cellar, and I for one look forward to sharing many delicious, expressive wines that offer immense gratification to the consumer for their inherent quality and to the professionals who know firsthand how much work it took to get there. But that is what we always say, right? Every vintage has some-thing outstanding to offer, and the winemakers are always pronouncing how great the wines will be when they are still in barrel maturing or even earlier when the are still fermenting in tank! So instead of talking with the folks in the cellar, who always seem to have a cheery outlook and who have a way to go before their work is done, I solicited some thoughts from some growers whose work has culminated with harvest.

I want to share two points of view. The first is more measured and academic. This is to be expected coming from the astute and invaluable Alice Wise, who runs the viticulture research program at Cornell’s Long Island Horticultural Research and Extension Center (LIHREC). Alice had this to say:

The 2011 season was warmer and wetter than the long-term averages. This afforded growers the luxury of a slightly earlier than normal harvest. The frequent rains and tropical storm after véraison [the on-set of ripening] forced vineyard managers to be vigilant with cano-py- and fruit-management practices. Many growers elected to hand harvest, which facilitated more careful sorting of fruit prior to crush. Across the board with all varieties, brix and acids were moderate and balanced, allowing clear expression of varietal flavors. It was gratify-ing to taste delicious fruit after such a labor-intensive season.

The other, blunter, dirty-boots-on-the-ground version comes from the uber-talented and awesome grape grower Sam Mc-Cullough. Sam is the vineyard manager for Lenz Winery and also grows some of the best and most sought-after grapes at his home farm in Aquebogue. This is what Sam shared:

The 2011 vintage has been the most difficult I can remember short of 1985 when Gloria pretty much wiped out the crop. 2011 was a year marked by lack of sunshine and continual intense fungal pres-sure from start to finish. I’ve never experienced such difficulty with downy mildew. It just wouldn’t go away. Excessive moisture in August, September and October got a lot of botrytis and sour rot going. All grapes required careful (aka really tedious, slow and expensive) hand harvest. By the time we finished chardonnay I was beginning to think that I knew what the dinosaurs felt like when they got stuck in tar pits. When we started with pinot noir for sparkling and it was messy

at 19 brix, I knew right there that this was going to be a fight to the end. When we finished with cabernet on 11/11, my suspicion was con-firmed. Fortunately the wines are good. After this year I need a drink!

Both of these, taken together, paint a realistic picture of the vintage. Sometimes the most telling observations come from outside eyes, and in the midst of harvest Mark L. Chien the viti-culture educator at Penn State Cooperative Extension visited the region and wrote a wonderful 17-page summary of his visit for his blog. It is a befitting summary to end with his thoughts…

We visited in the midst of a difficult vintage, yet the level of optimism and the quality of juice and wine samples we tasted bespoke of a mature indus-try that understands how to deal with adversity…. Some of the winemak-ers have almost 30 vintages under their belt and say this is the strangest vintage in memory, not the worst, just odd. I concur. Despite the weird-ness, there was little sense of urgency or aggravation on the crush pad or in the vineyard, only a singular determination to do the best they possible can with the fruit that is available. Not that it matters one bit, but a Cali-fornia winemaker would be thoroughly confused by a vintage like this. A low brix, low pH, low acid wine? What’s up with that? I say this only because I believe that these are among the most agile, creative, talented, patient, persevering and unflappable winemakers in the world.

James Christopher Tracy is the winemaker and partner at Channing Daughters Winery in Bridgehampton, as well as a student candidate for the Institute of Masters of Wine.

A WINEMAKER’S WONDERINGS

THE 2011 VINTAGEThree vineyard tenders describe one of the strangest seasons in memory.

BY JAMES CHRISTOPHER TRACY

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GREENPORT—Th ey pass as quite benignly ordinary chocolate cupcakes—until the fi rst bite. Th en impressions of merlot and blackberries dance with rich chocolate across the palate. Last May 1, 60 food lovers on a Greenport Slow Food Crawl crowded into the edible art shop of Miche Bacher and Nanao Anton to sample these cakes and other desserts and to view the shop’s display of stunningly decorated wedding cakes.

“If they open a store in the South Fork, that’s it. I’m lost,” says Linda, a Slow Food member, who shook her head and grinned. As an avid Internet shopper, Linda assuredly is now lost. Bacher and An-ton have just launched a new Web site carrying many of the sweets in their Greenport Shop. Th ey have changed their name from Sa-cred Sweets to Mali B Sweets, and it’s worth spending fi ve minutes checking out the cake gallery as an art form on Malibsweets.com. If you dare venture into the online shop, you’ll encounter several dozen temptations ranging from herb-fl avored cookies, spiced nuts and homemade marshmallows to chocolate bars and cakes made with fair-trade Kallari chocolate, produced by a coalition of 850 indigenous Kichwa families in the Napo region of the Ecuadorian Amazon. Soon to be off ered: a bar with Amagansett’s Art of Eating potato chips made from Balsam Farms organic potatoes.

It’s been quite a journey, fi rst from a spare-change exercise and the start of the business in 2002 to the one that supports local growers and wineries and products like Kallari, with a wedding cake featured in the September issue of Brides magazine as one of the 24 most beautiful in the nation.

Bacher, trained as an acupuncturist and doula, is a self-taught baker. “I was the stay-at-home mom who always brought desserts to the party. A friend asked me to make her something. Th e next thing I knew, people were calling.” In 2006, with the business pushing up against what she wanted to handle herself, Bacher joined forces with Anton, a fellow mother at the Hayground School in Bridgehamp-ton. “I dragged Nanao into it because I wanted someone who was my equal,” says Bacher. “Nanao, a weaver, has an art background and an incredibly open palate as well as an open eye.”

Today, the collaboration involves dreaming up and sketching de-signs for cakes, then working side-by-side painstakingly executing the idea, molding designs in sugar dough and creating the unique fl avors

ARTISANS

NOT YOURORDINARY SWEETS

A North Fork cake baker, a South Fork weaver, and their confectionary creations.

BY GERALDINE PLUENNEKE

PHOTOGRAPHS BY RANDEE DADDONA


which are the underlying point. “It’s incredibly long hours, for incredi-bly low pay. I work seven days a week, and the average day is 14 hours,” says Bacher of the peak wedding season. (Recently they’ve created many new designs for same-sex weddings.) Watch Bacher and Anton in the kitchen, and they’re motivated as much by the challenge as the art. Every cake and cupcake is made only to-order after confi rmation by telephone or in person, because they feel freshness is imperative to maintain their standards. Cakes run $7.50 to $60 per head.

“Isn’t it traumatic to think of someone cutting into your beau-tiful wedding cakes?” a visitor asks. “I don’t see it that way,” replies Bacher, “I consider ours a transient art. Th ere are artists who do sand sculptures on the beach that are meant to be washed out.”

Bacher continues, “We put days” (“Days,” echoes Anton) “into something that’s going to be decimated in moments.” Th eir record creating a cake: 50 to 60 hours over three days.

“Th e best things we make come out of our synergistic rela-tionship. Th e fl avors that we produce work,” Bacher says. “We do

a merlot, a chardonnay, a sparkling wine, a black duck porter in cakes, in cupcakes, in cake pops”—their fudgy confection that the Food Network Magazine featured a while back.

Even those who aren’t buying a whole cake can still preview their cake-making skills and the fi llings of the moment by buying a few Twinks, their take on commercial Twinkies, in the shop or online, which feature whatever fl avors they are currently playing with. “We’ve had carrot cake with cream cheese, passion-fruit fi ll-ing, Mexican chocolate,” says Anton. In the realm of cookies, there are variations with lavender, bourbon, fennel and sesame seeds, and buckwheat with cocoa nibs, as well as green-tea brownies.

Th ey’re perfecting a line of savory biscuits that particularly appeal to both women—one with cranberries, herbs and a little cayenne, an-other with almond and rosemary, apricot and sage—“savory crackers and things for your cheese plate that are elegant and upscale,” says Bacher. Th en there are the chocolate bars available in seven standard fl avors, from the most popular dark chocolate with toff ee and sea salt to milk chocolate and bacon, plus three extra fl avors monthly. Th e Web site off ers a tasting sampler for sweet-tooths among us who like to plan ahead: a year of three special monthly fl avors for $300.

“Our sweets are never terribly sweet…,” begins Anton. “…be-cause we use only organic sugar,” fi nishes Bacher. Although the bak-ers aren’t sure why, the unrefi ned, certifi ed-organic sugar they use seems less sweet than conventional sugar and allows their myriad other fl avors to shine. “Neither Anton or I love sweet things,” refl ects Bacher. “Th at may be where we diff er from other bakers,” she says.

You sense that their enthusiasm for the business extends to their families, with both husbands and teenagers contributing their time. Mali B Sweets is named for Bacher’s mixed-breed year-old black dog, Mali, pronounced Molly, and Anton’s mixed-breed six-year-old, Brownie, because, says Bacher, “Our dogs sustain us with unconditional love and support.”

“I am extremely grateful,” muses Anton. “Art is a lonely way of working, and it’s rare to fi nd a partner. We get along beautifully, feed off each other, are able to make beautiful things that taste spectacular every day. And we laugh.”

Geraldine Pluenneke writes from Montauk where she is completing a book about fl avor.

Mali B Sweets is located at 130 Front Street, Greenport, 631.477.6762. Th is past summer season its confections were carried at Sag Harbor’s Java Nation and Sylvester & Co., in Southampton at Schmidt’s, in East Hampton at Hampton Country Market, and currently at the Village Cheese Shop in Mattituck.

Beautiful things: At Mali B Sweets, Nanao Anton (above) and Miche Bacher, turn out marshmallows, a chocolate bar with lo-cal potato chips, and a form of Twinkies that feature their latest, experimental cake fi llings.

WOMAN’S BEST FRIEND. Don’t Forget the Pets. dogOdog, a Montauk-based company with recipes created by local shar-pei owner Betsy Petroski Smith, has gift sets of their all-organic treats and play-tug-chew toy made from 100 percent cotton. Visit dogodogorganics.com.


AMAGANSETTDelicate and lovely and doomed from birth to an early death, microgreens—bright-flavored shoots of herbs and leaves—are the neurasthenics of the salad world. Until recently no one grew them in any quantity on the South Fork (although Satur Farms in Cutchogue offers them, as does Koppert Cress, which counts the New York Yankees among its high-profile clientele). From time to time you might spot them at a certain fancy food shop, but those microgreens always look travel-spent, all but fainting away.

And then last June, small packets of fresh microgreens started cropping up at Provisions in Sag Harbor. Through the summer and into the fall they continued to materialize, but from where?

On the label, a minute telephone number offered the magnify-ing glass–equipped investigator a lead to a 7-by-14-foot Amagansett greenhouse named, in grand fashion, Good Water Farms. Flourish-ing in that close space were at least 20 varieties of miniature plants sown from organic seed, including elfin carrot tops (which taste like the Platonic essence of, well, a tiny carrot), sorrel, amaranth, garnet mustard and China rose radish. “Try the cumin,” said Brendan Da-vison, the grower, who lives on the property. “You’ll freak, I promise.”

And he should know, because Davison (shown opposite page) hap-pens to be a practitioner of shamanic energy medicine. During his ap-prenticeship, he spent time in Cuzco, Peru, where, it appears, shaman-farmers are not unusual. Reflecting on the close connection between the two callings, he realized his was to devote himself to microgreens.

The idea turned out to be a good one. When he went round to res-taurants like Nobu, South Edison, Sen, and Nick and Toni’s with his

first harvest, the chefs all wanted to know when he could bring more (12 to 18 days from seed to plate, depending on the variety). This past summer, customers included Ruschmeyer’s, Navy Beach and Crow’s Nest in Montauk, as well as the 1770 House in East Hampton and Estia’s Little Kitchen in Sag Harbor. Having outgrown his backyard quarters due to demand, Davison plans to move the year-round busi-ness to an 1,800-square-foot warehouse in East Hampton and extend his reach to restaurants in Brooklyn and Manhattan.

“What makes Good Water Farms special,” said chef Joe Isidori of South Fork Kitchen, “is that Brendan delivers the plants by the flat so we can snip them right before we serve them. The stuff I could get from other sources isn’t local and it’s already bagged.”

What’s more, most of the big growers rely on soil-free grow-ing mediums, while Davison uses an organic potting mix enriched with worm castings, bat guano and fish meal. And then there’s that metaphysical ingredient he’s slightly embarrassed to talk about.

“The shamans call it ‘opening sacred space,’” he explained, “and it involves invoking the four directions. It sounds funny, I know, but I do it every time I plant seeds. It brings all the elements into right relationship.”

Laurel Berger is an arts writer in Sag Harbor.

Good Water Farms sprouts and microgreens are sold at Provisions Natural Foods in Sag Harbor, Naturally Good Foods in Montauk, and the Sag Harbor Winter Farmers Market. goodwaterfarms.com

EDIBLE ENTREPRENEUR

LITTLE GREENS, BIG FLAVORElfin carrot tops, micro mustard and radish sprouts emerge from an Amagansett greenhouse.

BY LAUREL BERGER PHOTOGRAPHS BY LINDSAY MORRIS

Fine Estate Wines

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In the charmingly rustic tasting room, I got to sample some of the wines and I was so impressed that I bought a mixed case, which I enjoyed immensely.”– MARTHA STEWART

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“If his regular and reserve pinots made from the splendid 2007 vintage

are indicators, he’s sitting pretty. – HOWARD G. GOLDBERG

THE NEW YORK TIMES

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H AY G R O U N D S C H O O L


At the age of 12, Sam Talbot was diagnosed as a type 1 diabetic. His mother burst into tears the day she heard the doctor’s diag-nosis, then drove her son straight to Friendly’s where she ordered him a half-dozen diff erent ice cream sundaes, with the words, “Th is is the last time you can do this.” Talbot would learn all the prohibitions and at one time or another “broke every rule” even into his college days. Perhaps it was preordained that, lov-ing to eat, Talbot became a chef and expanded his palate travel-ing worldwide.

In his new cookbook, Th e Sweet Life: Diabetes Without Bound-aries, the executive chef of the Surf Lodge in Montauk and Mon-drian Hotel’s Imperial No. Nine in SoHo has compiled pleasure-delivering recipes not only for diabetics, but for all eaters.

His fl avors are deep and complex, his dishes colorful and com-forty. Th e 75 recipes in this late-October Rodale release rely on fl avor and textures rather than carbs, calories and fat. Most veg-gies are cooked al dente (“cook ½-inch pieces for 1 to 2 minutes than transfer to a bowl of ice water”) as a base for Talbot’s unique

and eclectic fl avors. Some work as either side dishes or entrées. Others, shorn of their seafood, chicken or meat, can stand alone as vegetarian or vegan fare.

For diabetics, Sweet Life is both a primer on how to indulge in rich, satisfying and low carb fl avor, and tips from a pro on how to manage the unexpected challenges of plummeting or soaring blood sugars. Th e book carries a new message about the freedom and enjoyment of food choices possible for a diabetic. “Th ere’s no ‘NO’ in diabetes for me. Th ere’s no, ‘you can’t.’ [A diabetic] can eat anything as long as it’s in moderation, and you’re moni-toring your blood sugar, and it’s a balance,” says Talbot. No chef knows better than he.

On a recent rainy afternoon at Imperial No. Nine, the restau-rant he helped open in SoHo’s Mondrian Hotel, the 33-year-old chef refl ected, “I’ve got this forum, this God-given forum, to be able to speak up, to be written about in magazines about something I believe in, not something meaningless and silly.” Indeed, on Sep-tember 21, Talbot, a partner with the Juvenile Diabetes Research Foundation, raised $50,700 for JDRF with his inaugural fund-rais-er, “the Sweet Life Kitchen,” on the rooftop of the Mondrian.

Oddly, at fi rst glance Talbot’s recipes appear quite improb-able for everyday cooking, okay, totally improbable. Dauntingly, most call for layering in a myriad of spices, herbs and ingredients, a few for expensive, hard-to-fi nd additions like mustard oil and yuzu juice, the imported Japanese citrus juice appearing on trendy menus. (Mustard oil and other unusual ingredients are all avail-able on the Internet, in some health food stores or Asian markets.)

But ingredients assembled, most are simple and fast. I fi rst fell for Talbot’s fl avor instincts making his fairly mainstream squid with sesame seeds and jalapeño peppers. I then tried his spicy cu-cumber salad with charred red onion, cabbage and a cast of 10 supporting ingredients for a vegetarian potluck.

“Oh, my God. Th is is incredible,” said the muscular, blond surfer sitting across from me. “Th e heat of the spices against the cool of the cucumber. I’ve got to have the recipe. I’m a gourmet cook.”

“Mmmmm, Mmmm, Mmmm,” murmured the woman next to him as she forked into the cucumbers.

“You’re clearly joking,” a guest and former California chef said last weekend as I set the fi rst course down, “crab with blue-berries and popcorn!” Th is fresh and crunchy crab ceviche with yuzu juice is the top-selling dish at Surf Lodge, and the four of us at my table rated it and all the other dishes “delicious winners.”

BOOKS

FREEDOM TO COOKA diabetic chef relies on fl avor and texture, not carbs and calories.

BY GERALDINE PLUENNEKE


Th e mustard oil in the tuna ceviche delivered a hot wasabi-like bite. Th e broccoli with citrus and roasted garlic oil was vibrant and sweet. Th e shirataki noodles (a soy-yam combo with minimal carbs), cashews and chiles was textured, mellow and fulfi lling. For dessert we munched Talbot’s 17-ingredient coconut granola. Th e granola erased my qualms about expense, and I’ve ordered a sup-ply of açai powder, cacao nibs, goji berries and pistachios. “His style will have an eff ect on other chefs,” one guest predicted later.

So what infl uences inform Talbot’s recipes? “Th ese recipes aren’t based on anybody but myself, from my everyday life. Th ings I like to sustain on and nourish.” Some he fi rst developed cooking by the roadside on a cross-country car trip with his Lab-rador. Th e Sweet Life details the advance preparations and snacks

Talbot has found vital traveling as a diabetic, and how he has coped with the “alarming, tricky situations” that can confront any diabetic round-the-clock. Other recipes are variations on fa-vorites from his restaurant menus.

When he isn’t cooking or surfi ng, Talbot (shown above at his Montauk home) paints—in mixed media. “Th e canvas is the same thing as a plate. My head’s in the same place whether I’m cooking or painting.... I’m all about texture, texture in foods, texture in painting. I love layers (of both paint and fl avor).” New research on health benefi ts of food—of eating more herbs, of eating more greens and spices intrigue him. “Cinnamon’s great for a diabetic. I eat it all day long by the spoonful.”

Turns out nothing is improbable about Sam Talbot’s cookbook.

I fi rst fell for Talbot’s fl avor instincts making his fairly mainstream squid with sesame seeds and jalapeño peppers. I then tried his spicy cucumber salad with charred red onion, cabbage and a cast of 10 supporting ingredients for a vegetarian potluck.

WINTER WARMER. Townline BBQ Sauce. Th e housemade sauce, ideal for cold-season grilling, comes in regular and hot in 16-ounce bottles for $7.50. Buy it at the restaurant on Town Line Road in Sagaponack.

Grown on Long Island

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12:30

9:40 9:405:10


Roxanne Browning had a captive audience at Laurel Lake Vineyards. They were seated in the tank room in front of wine-glasses with the promise of a pairing not usually on the menu: wine and chocolate.

Browning, formerly a Madison Avenue ad executive and the mayor of Northport, has been passionate about chocolate ever since a trip to the Ecuadorian Amazon in the early 2000s where she visited villages that made their livings making “bean to bar” chocolate, the kind of chocolate that now is encroaching upon the shelves that used to be populated with candy made by global com-panies like Nestlé, Hershey and Cadbury.

But watch that word “candy.” True chocolate, says this “choco-

late sommelier,” is not candy. If you look at the label of a commer-cially available chocolate bar, the first ingredient is some kind of sugar, whether it be high-fructose corn syrup or your run-of-the-mill cane sugar. A true chocolate bar, she says, will always have as its first ingredient cocoa.

And the benefit of seeking out such chocolates, she says, in addition to the fact that they taste better, provide health benefits (more about that later) and are a quality product, which most con-sumers demand these days, is that chocolate from such small vil-lages helps sustain the native peoples who have, for the most part, formed cooperatives, know how to select the best beans and are farming and producing with the environment in mind.

PAIRINGS

COCOAVINOA chocolate sommelier goes head-to-head with Long Island wine.BY EILEEN M. DUFFY PHOTOGRAPHS BY RANDEE DADDONA


For the fi rst round, Laurel Lake’s winemaker Juan Sepulveda poured his 2010 Sauvignon Blanc, which Browning paired with a chocolate bar with dried banana and cayenne pepper by Antidote, a company in Ecuador. Th e spice of the pepper and the sweetness of the banana complemented the herbaceousness of the wine. Next was Laurel Lake’s 2001 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon with a 75 per-cent cocoa bar by Askinose, from the Soconusco region of Mexico. Th e darkness of the wine with its chalky tannins and the darkness of the chocolate with its chalky tannins worked well together.

My favorite was the combination of the slightly sweet 2010 Laurel Lake Gewürztraminer with chocolate from Kallari in Ec-uador made with 75 percent cocoa and more cocoa butter than in the other bars. Th e chocolate was rich, pure and creamy, and the acidic but sweet wine made it melt in your mouth.

It’s not too hard to convince people that chocolate is good for you, but Browning (shown at left in red sweater) made her case: the monounsaturated fats in cocoa butter are similar to the good fats in avocados and olive oil. Chocolate is also high in antioxi-dants, which are said to control insulin levels and provide minerals important to everyone’s diet. And in its purest form, chocolate has very low levels of caff eine.

Th e crowd was already won over.

For more information or to set up tastings, visit exoticchocolatetasting.com.

ART YOU DRINK. Bedell “Artist Series” Gift Box. All six bottles in the Artist Series Collection (Taste Red and White, Gewürztraminer, Gallery, Musée and Sparkling) come packed in a custom wooden box for $280. Th ey are ready to drink or just stare at. bedellcellars.com


Strong Ryeland, a copper-hued collaboration created by Greenport Harbor Brewing Company and Southampton Publick House, is more than a well-balanced amalgam of five malt types and two hop variet-ies, suitable for session-easy situations; the Long Island–interpreted English Special Bitter (ESB) embodies the convergence of two local breweries, situated on opposite forks, for the appreciation of craft beer.

“I really wanted Greenport and Southampton to do something they felt represented them as brewers and would be proud to put their names on,” says Jen Torriero, bar manager of Spring Lounge in Manhattan’s NoLita.

Torriero, the impetus behind the two-day union in early Septem-ber, chose a bold, rye-based ESB (comprising 20 percent of Strong Ryeland’s malt profile, rye is also used in Greenport Harbor Brew-ing Company’s recent Spring Turning Saison) after a discussion with Spencer Niebuhr, brand manager of Southampton Publick House, about a one-off project that could serve as the apex of “I Love NY Beer,” Spring Lounge’s monthlong switch to New York–only craft drafts and bottles in October. (One of New York’s oldest bars, Spring Lounge features American beer and impressively opens at 8:00 a.m.)

“I suggested we combine forces with our brethren on the East End of Long Island and create a new beer,” says Niebuhr. “Two text messages later to Greenport and we were off-and-running.”

Though Strong Ryeland’s moniker is a playful jab at an un-favorable local portrayal (“I think it goes without saying that our breweries embody the gold chains and muscle shirts that people

often associate with Long Island,” jokes Greg Doroski, assistant brewer of Greenport Harbor Brewing Company), its handle also represents the awareness, and solidarity, of community—not only within craft beer, but on Long Island, as well. This was most evi-dent during Strong Ryeland’s recipe formation by Phil Markowski and DJ Swanson, brewmasters of Southampton Publick House and Greenport Harbor Brewing Company, respectively.

“The planning was around the time of Hurricane Irene, so it wasn’t always an easy process,” recalls Swanson. “But it seemed like the perfect time to hang out and make a beer with friends.” Over two sessions in Greenport, the five aforementioned beerists shared brew-ing duties, industry stories, and pints, until a moderately spiced, malt-forward ale with subtle notes of citrus and herbal tea was completed.

“The specialty malts impart a unique character to the foun-dation, and the use of both UK Target and Cascade hops gives this beer more of a multi-continental take on the style,” says Mar-kowski. “With Strong Ryeland, we hope to give the beer-drinking community a taste of the two forks.”

Niko Krommydas lives in Selden, and runs “Super Neat Beer Ad-venture, Yes!!,” a Long Island craft beer blog, nikokrommydas.com.

SOCIAL SUDS

STRONG RYELANDThe region’s first collaborative beer delivers a taste from both forks.

BY NIKO KROMMYDAS

Community beer: The people behind Strong Ryeland include, above from left, Spencer Niebuhr, Phil Markowski, DJ Swanson, Jen Torriero and Greg Doroski.

Phot

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oski


EAST HAMPTON—I met John Malafronte at the Food Pantry Farm on a blustery, gray day at the end of April. It was overcast and chilly with a dampness that crept into my bones. Malafronte greeted me with such excitement and enthusiasm that I instantly warmed up and was comfortable walking the fields with him. A slight man with an eagerness and willingness to talk, Malafronte (who had a career as a bond salesman in Manhattan), told me that upon retiring on the East End he decided to take a small garden at EECO Farm. With no prior experience as a gardener, he grew food for himself and his wife. Eventually he met Peter Garnham, who was farming commercially at EECO Farm. Garnham had been gardening all of his life; his tanned face and rugged manner speaks of the time he has spent outdoors. He is a master gardener and makes a living as a garden writer for national magazines.

In 2009 as the economy slumped, Garnham became aware of the need for food donations at the local East End food pantries and decided to do something about it. He enlisted Malafronte’s

help, and the two friends started growing food to donate. Bring-ing their contacts, experience and enthusiasm to the cause, calls for help were made to national seed companies and local nurseries, and the donations began to come in. Malafronte and Garnham provided the rented land and “seed” money needed for the farm’s other necessities, and the Food Pantry Farm was born.

The Food Pantry Farm is exactly what it sounds like: a farm that grows fresh organic produce for food pantries. I admit I al-ways thought that food pantries only distributed government-is-sued and donated meat, cheese and dried and/or canned goods. To me, this sounded uninspired and unappetizing. If indeed that was the case of food pantries in the past, then the face of today’s food pantry is different. Here on the East End, people using the re-sources of the local food pantries can also expect fresh food, fresh herbs and flowers. The idea being this: people who need to use a food pantry deserve the same fresh, nutritious food that is avail-able to people shopping at the supermarket and farmers markets.

ON GOOD LAND

PLANT A ROW FOR THE HUNGRYAt EECO Farm, a plot is dedicated to supplying South Fork food pantries.

STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY ELLEN WATSON


The Food Pantry Farm sensibility is a balance of idealism and practicality. As we discuss what is being grown at the farm (carrots, salad and cooking greens, summer and winter squash, melons, sweet potatoes, okra, beets, turnips, collards, kale, parsnips, radishes and Swiss chard, to name a few), the farmers share some thoughts with me. They grow and donate fresh herbs, such as cilantro, parsley, sage, mint and thyme to the pantries. But they want to know from their cli-entele: What other herbs and vegetables would you like? They also feel that if you are driven by need to use a food pantry, you are in a rough spot—so they grow fresh flowers to include in the donations. After all, who wouldn’t like a bouquet of flowers to cheer them up? These are very civil, endearing thoughts to be having when providing food for the needy. These farmers discovered that there was a need for good, fresh food, and so they are providing it, and more. They are telling the food pantry clientele that they matter, that someone cares for them.

In 2009, the first year of the farm, Garnham and Malafronte did all the physical labor, along with friends and family volunteers. They planted and weeded and harvested, adding to their land area whenever more became available. Also part of the founding team is Ira Bezoza, a retired attorney and businessperson (and a keen gar-dener) who came on board to help out. He has a cheery, quick smile and is a great sidekick to Malafronte in their mutual storytelling. Involved in numerous citizen and community groups, Ira works as the bookkeeper and chief fund-raiser for the Food Pantry Farm.

Two major donors, and a late-summer benefit barbecue held in September, have raised the funds for a planned state-of-the-art 3,400-square-foot hoop house, a plastic-covered greenhouse. When this

hoop house is in place (upon approval from the Town Board), the Food Pantry Farm will be capable of growing and delivering food year-round. In the summer of 2010, Bruce Warr joined the board. Warr has had a passion for farming since childhood. His grandfather was a professor of agriculture and commissioner of agriculture for New Jersey. He visited many farms when he was young, and a lifelong love of the natural world was instilled in him. With a great work ethic, he helps in the day-to-day operations of the farm several days a week. These men put in anywhere from 20 to 70 hours a week working at the farm.

The Food Pantry Farm currently works almost three acres of land and has two hoop houses. They recently reclaimed an abandoned orchard in a corner of EECO Farm. When I first visited in April, this patch of land was dead looking: brown grass, wiry sick-looking trees. The farmers weren’t even sure what the health of the trees was or whether they would bear fruit. On a second visit at the end of June, the grass was green and mowed. Much of the area had been covered in black plastic ground-cover cloth to keep down the weeds; large nurs-ery pots had been set on top and planted with cucumbers, melons and zucchini. Vines flowed over the top and onto the ground-cover fabric, ripe with flowers and baby squash. The fruit trees looked healthy and happy, some with fruit on them—a few apples, pears and peaches. The trees will be pruned and fed this winter and spring. Some new

Dedicated deliveries: The Food Pantry Farm makes a weekly delivery to five local pantries. Darcy Hutzenlaub, below and opposite page, started volunteering at Food Pantry Farm, and is now the farm’s field manager and community service supervisor.


trees will be planted to replace the dead ones that will be removed.So how do these four retirement-age men manage all the physi-

cal labor needed to run the farm? Besides them and the volunteers, they have one paid employee, Darcy Hutzenlaub. She is the farm’s field manager and community service supervisor. Hutzenlaub met Garnham when she began volunteering at the Food Pantry Farm. She wanted to learn more about growing food to assist her in a job she had at the time. Eventually, she quit her other job and came to work for the Food Pantry Farm. She recently completed the Cornell Cooperative Extension’s Master Gardener program and this win-ter will attend the New York Beginning Female Farmer’s Program. Hutzenlaub is a striking, strong, knowledgeable young woman and

rounds out this crowd of retired men just perfectly. In fact the group feels like a family. There is smart conversation, lots of humor and great compassion for each other and the cause. The group bounces around ideas, discusses current farm issues and laughs a lot. They all share the view that the Food Pantry Farm is a model that could be replicated in communities around the country. Unemployed people could be given work, and those in need could be given their fair share of fresh food. They are all tireless workers with big ideas that I am convinced will come to pass.

Ellen Watson, self-proclaimed naturalist, can often be found photo-graphing gardens, farms and fields on the sublime East End.

Amagansett Food Pantry

Saint Michael’s Lutheran Church486 Montauk HighwayAmagansett, NY 11930631.267.6351Tuesday 4–6 p.m.

East Hampton Food Pantry

Windmill Village II219-50 Accabonac RoadEast Hampton, NY 11937631.324.2300Tuesday 2–6 p.m.

Sag Harbor Food Pantry

Old Whalers Church44 Union StreetSag Harbor, NY 11963631.725.2880Tuesday 10:30 a.m.–1 p.m.

Springs Food Pantry

Springs Presbyterian Church5 Old Stone HighwayEast Hampton, NY 11937631.324.4791Wednesday 4–6 p.m.

Southampton Food Pantry

Human Resources of the Hamptons168 Hill StreetSouthampton, NY 11968631.283.6415Monday, Wednesday & Friday 10 a.m.–2 p.m.

At present, food donations are made by the Food Pantry Farm from April through early December. One delivery a week is made to the Amagansett, East Hampton, Sag Harbor, Southampton and Springs food pantries. In 2009, the Food Pantry Farm donated a total of 9½ tons of food from April through early December. In 2010, the number went up to 16½ tons. At the time of this writing, over 15 tons of food has been delivered from April through September 2011.

The farmers estimate that for every $1 that is do-nated, they deliver about $3 worth of vegetables at wholesale prices. Donations pay for seeds, supplies, tools and the salary of one paid employee; volunteers and community service people do the rest of the work. For more information or to volunteer, e-mail them at [email protected].

Farm vision: Peter Garnham, at left with farm manager Hut-zenlaub, founded Food Pantry Farm with other EECO Farm colleagues. Each year, the farm delivers more than 16 tons of produce to nearby food pantries.

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AMAGANSETT—Standing behind the counter of a grab-and-go breakfast-lunch spot has taught Mary Schoenlein a lot about people in the past nine years. It kind of boils down to this: People don’t like change, except when they ask for it.

Schoenlein, the owner of Mary’s Marvelous on Main Street in Amagansett, during the summer feeds the frantic recreationer, but over the winter a stream of locals keeps her in business. There are some she sees every day and others who will call her at home if she takes an item off the menu.

“People got upset when I stopped making the curried chicken salad sandwich,” she says. “We had another kind of chicken salad, and everybody makes a curried chicken salad, but that’s what they wanted.”

She is not complaining. In fact, the evolution of her business—from a stripped down selection of pastries and sandwiches, to an ever-changing chalkboard of breakfast sandwiches, soups, grains, vegetables, and meat dishes—was prompted by her standby cus-tomers, who came to depend on Mary’s for breakfast, lunch and (reheated-at-home) dinner. From the very beginning, “people were just wanting to grab food and get to their next thing. New Yorkers, especially on vacation, want that lifestyle,” says Schoenlein. Then as customers started coming back and asking for more, the prepared foods started creeping in. “They’d say ‘this is great, but how about a salad?’ or ‘Do you have anything I could bring home for dinner?’”

For Schoenlein what her customers want is as important, and maybe more so, than her desire for creativity. It shows in how many of those who enter her store greet her by name, ask after her family and talk about their lives, as Schoenlein listens like she has all day. Despite the exclamation mark in her logo, Mary’s Marvelous conveys a steady dedication to quality where the answer to the question “What’s good here?” is answered by other customers and staff alike, “Everything!”

And everything is prepared in the diminutive 1,100-square-foot space. Egg dishes for breakfast, 12 different types of pastry, muffins, prepared sandwiches, salads, hot food like curried tofu, sautéed kale from Balsam’s Farm and Waldorf salad. Chicken potpies sit in the case next to macaroni and cheese. Cupcakes are surrounded by spiced nuts and the dozen or so different cookies baked in the small kitchen. There are sablés, regular and chocolate, peanut butter filled peanut butter cookies, fresh lime shortbread, Mary O’s, just like Oreos but better, and what Schoenlein calls her

American line, good old chocolate chips and oatmeal raisin.The menu also reflects the diversity in the kitchen. The house-

made salsa is prepared using a recipe provided by one of the Ec-uadorian cooks, which uses tomate de arbol, a tree tomato native to South America that results in a creamy pale orange sauce. The eggs Colombian are rolled in a tortilla and have crumbled potato chips in a decidedly Andean flourish. Outside of home kitchens, Mary’s Marvelous offers some of the South Fork’s only made-from-scratch arepas, thick corn cakes filled with milk, butter and white cheese, or shredded beef, guacamole and hard-boiled egg.

In the winter, with the Amagansett Farmers Market, Vicki’s Veggies and much of Montauk shuttered, Mary’s is perhaps the last food option for eastbound roadtrippers. So, it’s not unusual that, on any given day in winter, a line of customers snakes away from the cash register, toward the back of the shop and then back toward the front, forming a horseshoe around a center table ar-ranged with the shop’s own packaged products and selected arti-san foods from around the country. During a recent “quiet” week, the shop went through 120 dozen eggs, a number that quadruples in summer. The shop goes through 1,000 pounds of flour each week. For Thanksgiving, they sold nearly 80 pies, mostly pump-kin, double-crusted apple, and pecan. Mary’s sells “gallons and gallons” of chicken soup, made fresh three or four times a week.

Mary’s opened in 2002, but Schoenlein’s cooking career began nearly two decades before when she moved to New York City and talked her way into trendsetting Gotham restaurants, like Jonathan Waxman’s Jams on the Upper East Side. She honed her pastry skills during a stint at a two-star Michelin restaurant in Versailles, France, and deepened her reverence for impeccable ingredients alongside Alfred Portale when Gotham Bar and Grill received its first New York Times stars.

Schoenlein and her husband ultimately wanted out of the city. They found a home in Amagansett, and Schoenlein became the executive chef of the late Red Horse Market on Montauk High-way, east of East Hampton. There she started her own line of granola, called Mary’s Marvelous at the suggestion of a friend, a suggestion that Schoenlein first doubted but it stuck. (More than a few customers have made the granola—a heavenly mix of oats, maple syrup sent direct from a farm in Vermont, jumbo raisins, and “just a few other ingredients”—their morning staple for the

BACK OF THE HOUSE

MARY’S MARVELOUSThis cozy Main Street spot is crammed full of all-day, from-scratch nourishment.

BY EILEEN M. DUFFY PHOTOGRAPHS BY LINDSAY MORRIS





RUBS AND FUDGE. Condiments for Xmas. Local producers are selling stuff that makes the stuff they already sell taste better. For preparing pastured poultry, Browder’s Birds sells two dry rubs in 5-ounce jars for $10: Grill, for a barbecue fl avor, and Roast, a mix of dry herbs; call 631.599.3394 or visit browdersbirds.com to order. Vine Street Café is now selling their barbecue sauce, cookies and hot fudge. Buy their Blue Canoe products at the restaurant on Shelter Island, or through their Web site, bluecanoesi.com.

last decade. “It’s baked in small batches,” says Schoenlein. “We’re very conscious about keeping it fresh.”)

When the Red Horse Market closed, Schoenlein started look-ing for a space for her own business. Th e space, at the eastern end of the row of shops in Amagansett, had once been the Coach outlet but before that, in the ’70s, it had been the Store, run by Bert Greene, who went on to become a food writer and cookbook author. Th e Store was one of the fi rst to sell prepared gourmet food, preceding even the Barefoot Contessa in East Hampton. Th e landlord heard she was looking for a place and gave her a call.

It was a perfect match, a store with plenty of parking ideally located for beachgoers seeking breakfast and lunch. Schoenlein’s husband, Pat McKibbin, who works for South Fork builder Bul-gin & Associates, redesigned the space and was side-by-side with Schoenlein as they sledgehammered the concrete slab to lay a new kitchen fl oor. Later, when the business quickly grew, McKibbin helped build out storage and refrigerator space. (“He’s really been my rock in starting this whole venture,” Schoenlein says. “Starting my own business was a dream. Pat helped me realize it.”)

And for 10 years this coming summer, Mary’s Marvelous has served customers seven days per week, opening at 7:00 a.m. and closing at 4:00 p.m. (3:00 p.m. on Sundays).

She now has a full-time staff of 13, and her sister, Sandra, has been there since the beginning. Another sister, Laura, worked there but died of cancer, something customers still talk about and remember.

Change still hovers. Th is year, in response to customer re-quests, Schoenlein added gluten-free off erings and more vegan specialties. Items like raw kale salad, a butternut squash and spin-ach gratin, and quinoa cakes are just a rotating roster of in-season additions that consistently sell out. In the home-meal category, her turkey meat loaf and chicken potpie remain big sellers.

Schoenlein continues to consider expansion as the volume of her business bumps up against the tiny kitchen. She’s investing in her Web site, taking notes for a cookbook, and, with her long-haired miniature dachshund, Bijoux, at her feet, spending more time in her offi ce, which had to be moved to another building so she could expand the kitchen. Th is year, she says, after a decade of “working ma butt off ,” was the fi rst she’s had weekends off .

And while she has tried to get some distance from the day to day, the demands of 4:00 a.m. pastry-baking, after-closing stock and soup-making, and her own ongoing urge to get her hands

coated in fl our, all pull her back in. She depends on “an incredible staff ,” including cooks who head up pastry, savory and other ele-ments. But Schoenlein still designs all the menus.

“It amazes me. It still amazes me,” she says. “All the time and all the work that goes into making good food.”

Eileen M. Duff y, Edible East End’s deputy editor, holds a diploma in wine and spirits from the International Wine Center and writes from her home in Southold.

Savvy shopkeeper: When her customers started to depend on Mary’s Marvelous for breakfast, lunch, and (reheated-at-home) dinner, Mary Schoenlein (opposite page) added an ever-changing chalkboard of breakfast sandwiches, soups, grains, vegetables, and meat dishes.


NORTH HAVEN—The home of artists April Gornik and Eric Fischl is perched above freshwater wetlands and surrounded by gnarled wild cherry trees that stretch to the sky. The path from the driveway, where a Chevy Volt is fed through a bright-orange cord near a bank of solar panels, leads past matching his-and-hers glass studios with wraparound porches; up concrete stairways bisected by collecting pools that ferry rainwater away from the house; and finally, through a native-plants garden dotted with Japanese ma-ples ablaze in autumn glory.

The robust Lacinato kale patch outside the front door is a sign of the couple’s deep-rooted interest in matters related to eating. In 1975, when the two painters met at the Nova Scotia College of Art and Design, Fischl wooed Gornik with mulligatawny soup, a salade composée and what Gornik recalls as “this insanely delicious creamy clam chowder.” (Born in New York City and raised in suburban Long Island, Fischl knew the chowder as part of his kitchen vernac-ular. He thinks the mulligatawny soup came from the Alice’s Res-taurant Cookbook; the salad was “a half-assed attempt at dieting.”)

Gornik admits she was no gourmand—“my main food was Kraft Macaroni & Cheese and Ragú spaghetti sauce”—but a few years later, inspired by a fancy French dinner-party circuit that some art school friends started, she got a copy of Mastering the Art of French Cooking, and, on an electric skillet and hot plate in the illegal office building where she and Fischl were squatting, turned out sole de bonne femme and a gâteau de crêpes with a frangipane filling. Did those early edible installations from April help seal the deal with Eric? “It certainly went a long way,” he says, wrapping an arm around his wife’s shoulders.

Dinner parties remain a big part of the routine. They regularly host holiday feasts, dishing up communal delicacies like Brazilian fish soup to a couple dozen guests. Other edible endeavors include Gornik pushing farmers market schedules and food pantry dona-tions in the Save Sag Harbor e-newsletter, and Fischl re-creating his-toric Midwestern meals as part of America: Now and Here, his ambi-tious 18-wheeler mounted, moveable exhibit that raises questions about democracy, patriotism and trust in a post-911 America. Both artists have produced labels for Bedell Cellars’ Artist Series—a Fischl nude kicked off the series on a 2001 magnum of merlot, while a Gornik oceanscape graced the 2007 blanc de blancs.

Most days, they do breakfast and lunch separately. She eats

lightly before noon to leave room for yoga and swimming. He sips cappuccino and munches granola. She tends the garden, stocks the pantry and books their CSA memberships. He makes bread—“a genius talent,” Gornik says.

Their home, designed by Fischl and built with the collabo-ration of architect Lee Skolnick, is adorned with a collection of sculpture, paintings and books that you’d expect from a New York art world power duo who both count works at the Met, Whit-ney and MoMA. From the main living room—a soaring barnlike space with a library that floats overhead—the home flows down into a cozy dining room and kitchen, joined by a floor-to-ceiling concrete and stucco partition, with heart pine cupboards and trim, that holds plates, cups and cookbooks.

And although Gornik and Fischl are two very different eaters, they share the conviction that what we put in our mouths can be both model and muse. “It seems like every couple of months, I’m wildly interested in cooking and I’ll need to make up a new reci-pe,” says Gornik. “I don’t really associate it with either a creative or fallow time in my studio. But I do think that cooking and making art and gardening are all parallel activities for me.”

The opening of America: Now and Here in Kansas City, Mis-souri, included two food events. The first was a lunch that featured jerky, hardtack and jars of lard. “One of the courses was preceded by a history lesson in which it was told that the Missouri River was once full of salmon, but that settlers said they would rather eat their dogs than eat salmon,” says Fischl. “The chef then served salmon hot dogs!”

At the second event, organized with a local artists collective named Bread, aspiring activists came to sup on homemade bread and soup. Attendees threw their names into a hat, three were cho-sen to speak about their projects, a vote was taken and the winner was awarded the evening’s proceeds. “So, yes,” Fischl says. “Art and food are intimately tied together.”

IN THE KITCHEN WITH

APRIL GORNIK AND ERIC FISCHLTwo painters thrive on eggs, homemade bread and ambitious dinner parties.

BY BRIAN HALWEIL PHOTOGRAPHS BY LINDSAY MORRIS

She tends the garden, stocks the pantry and books their CSA memberships. He

makes bread—“a genius talent,” she says.


Who does the cooking?AG: It’s me. He does bake bread, but that’s kinda it. It’s partly my

fault because I’m kind of strict about health things, like butter. I’m a little bit of a kitchen dictator. (I’m tired of people saying “Nazi.”)

What’s your breakfast routine?AG: I always eat two local, organic eggs, either from Bette and

Dale or David Falkowski, and some bread from Eric, and chives from my garden.

EF: Coffee, two cups, cappuccino, first thing. I read the paper (digital Times Reader), do crossword and/or Words with Friends. Bola Granola with fruit (April makes it with maple syrup) and 2 per-cent milk. I’m a friend of [the designer] Nicole Miller’s, and Bola is her sister’s product. That would be enough reason to support it, but it is delicious on top of that. We get it at Cavaniola’s Cheese Shop.

EggsAG: My mom would make me eggs when I was sick. Soft-

boiled. Eric will tell you his theory that women like to eat eggs more than men do. He thinks that’s weird and cannibalistic. I think he thinks that because he doesn’t like caviar.

EF: I do find it unsettling to watch women coo and glee over a bowl of caviar. More so than men who also coo and glee over it. Ironic how upset they can get at birds that rob eggs from other birds’ nests but don’t make this connection to our nest or uterine robbery.

AG: I’m currently eating them scrambled. I’m a little OCD with my eggs. I’ll get into a soft-boiled thing and I’ll do that for

six months or a year. Sometimes it’s only one egg. Sometimes it’s two. But I do find that if I eat two eggs and a piece of toast or a half a piece of toast, then I’m just fine for hours and hours and hours and hours.

Andreja Premium espresso machineEF: I have a fancy espresso machine and burr grinder but I

am not an expert. My coffee is organic beans called Hurricane Espresso I get from IGA in Sag. Every now and then I nail a great foam, but it is so inconsistent it plagues me. I do the same thing every day with differing results (which proves I am not mad, just


inconsistent). My theory is that it is the milk’s fault. It seems when I open a new carton [it] foams the best but then over several days it becomes less and less certain. I will never research this theory, but if any of your readers have thoughts let me know.

BerriesAG: I like to eat red fruits in the morning. What the French

call “red fruits”—strawberries, raspberries, blackberries. I get that at Provisions. They are high in antioxidants, and I like them.

MeatAG: I’m not a meat person. It’s to a certain extent philosophical.

I curated a show called Other Is Animal at Danese Gallery. It was not supposed to be a “don’t eat animals show,” it was just supposed to show animals as having real presence and as being worthy of attention. Because of their consciousness. Not because they are cute or they look like us or even on ecological grounds.

For Thanksgiving I ordered a Heritage Foods USA cruelty-free turkey. It’s not so much people eating animals per se, but the cruelty involved in factory farming. It makes me insane with rage and disgust and sorrow. To me it’s the moral elephant in the room of America.

Dreamfields pastaAG: I should do an ad for this spaghetti. Actually, I was talk-

ing with the guy who sells the fish at King Kullen, about trying to find local fish. But then what I wanted for dinner was pasta. He said, “Have you tried Dreamfields spaghetti?” And I said no, because I like Barilla the best and I’m a total pasta snob. And so I bought it, and it’s fantastic. It has a lower glycemic content than most spaghettis, and it’s the best pasta I’ve ever bought. I recom-mend it, but the only place I can find it is King Kullen.

I do spaghetti and arugula pesto from my garden. And kale pesto is really good, or just kale sautéed. My personal favorite is probably spaghetti and artichokes with tomato and mint.

Indian spicesAG: Here’s a funny story. I’m in a taxi in New York and the

driver has a dish on his seat that he’s going to eat for dinner, and it

smelled delicious. And I went, “That smells so good. There’s am-chur in it, isn’t there?” And he said, “Yes, how did you know?” And I said, “I just love that spice, I could smell it from a mile away.” And he goes, “all women love amchur, what is it?” And I said, “if you don’t understand it, I don’t understand it.”

Ceramic egg trayThat’s Mae Mougin. She makes them. She’s great. It’s obvi-

ously decorative, but I use it all the time.Tomato sauceI have my own way of doing it. It’s not chunky, chunky. I like

it with a huge amount of garlic, olive oil, bay leaf and salt.Broccoli rabeThis is broccoli rabe from Quail Hill that needs to be eaten.

Right now, I’m in the winter share of Quail Hill. But in the summer I tried Sunset Beach Farm, which is, like, just around the corner.

GardenI just started doing the garden two summers ago. It’s always been,

like, flowers and perennials. I said to Eric, “What do you like?” And he said, “Cucumbers.” I don’t like them really, but there’s this Thai fish soup that involves those long European cucumbers. And there was a seed package at Marder’s, so I grabbed it. And I planted them just like it said, five little seeds in a mounded hole. And then, like three weeks later, our entire yard was a sea of cucumbers.

Cupcake trays and baking pansAG: I got into trying to make health muffins a few years ago. The

baking trays are what I use to bake sweet potatoes and vegetables. I love roasted vegetables. I do that a lot in the winter. Eric used to make pies and cinnamon buns. And I begged him repeatedly to make them. ‘Wouldn’t it be nice to have cinnamon buns?’ But then he’d probably put butter in them and I would be telling him to put less butter.

EF: I was a dishwasher at a pharmacy in Scottsdale, Arizona, [I] got promoted overnight to cook because the cook quit. It was a real soda fountain kind of place, and I was responsible for break-fast and lunch. The usual stuff like eggs any which way, BLTs, burgers and dogs, chicken and tuna salads. I also had to make a


couple of pies and cinnamon-raisin buns each morning. Th ey were edible but not pretty. I could never get the fruit to gel, so when I sliced into the pie, the crust collapsed and fruit pooled. No one complained but no one off ered to help me fi gure it out either.

Two Bengal catsAG: We got one from a friend and another from the South-

ampton Animal Shelter [Gornik is an active supporter of the South-ampton Animal Shelter Foundation]. We take our cats for walks on leashes. When they see something outside it’s really cute. Th ey go boing, boing. Th ey bounce, like Tigger in Winnie the Pooh.

Breadmaking supplies (including assorted fl ours, measuring con-tainers, scale and Tartine Bread cookbook)

AG: Th is is his olive bread from a few days ago. It’s really deli-cious. He also makes an amazing walnut loaf. Th at’s my favorite.

EF: I’m not a baker. I just make some bread.

CookbooksAG: I tend more now to go to Epicurious online if I’m trying

to make something up and I just want ideas. I’ll scan a bunch of recipes and make my own version. But I like the cookbooks.

Astier de Villatte chinaAG: Th is company in France makes it. We’ve been collecting

it for years and years. It’s a black or dark-gray clay with a white slick. It’s really a simple idea. I don’t think there’s anything like it.

Places you like to go?AG: Nick and Toni’s. I like North Fork Table and I love the

Vine Wine & Café up there [in Greenport]. And I like Vine Street Café. I think Cittanuova does a really great job. Th e nice thing is that most of the restaurants around here seem to be aware of using local produce and supporting local farmers. Th at matters to me.

EF: Almond (excellent). Tutto il Giorno (though I am not treated well there). Dockside (lunch in summer on the patio, can’t be beat).

Dining table AG: Our dining room table was made by Eric’s former as-

sistant, a great woodworker named Tom Brokish who now lives in Portland, Maine, but still does custom work down here for us and others. He and Eric worked on the design together. We have some pretty ambitious dinners here. I get nervous cooking and planning, but once I pull it off , when everyone is enthusiastic and happy, I’m happy. I do Christmas or Christmas Eve dinner. Every year with friends, which is really nice. I’ve done Th anksgiving for years and years and years. Th e occasional birthday party. And big dinner parties in the summer.

EF: For me all our dinners blend together into one continuous love affair with friends.

Brian Halweil is the editor of Edible East End.

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Bring up a word like “organic” around Joe and Alexandra Macari, and you won’t get the reaction that you think you might get from this 16-year-old producer known by many for their organic-lean-ing approach to farming; in fact, it kind of feels like the “O” word around their 450 or so acres. Not because they don’t believe in these principles of farming, or because they aren’t very, very good stewards of the land—they do and they are. Very much so. It’s just that as far as the Macaris are concerned, the only thing you can reliably stick a label on is a bottle; outside of that, words are just words. The real stuff is in the soil.

“I think it [can be] a marketing tool to get people to buy things,” says Alexandra, when we talk about the countrywide em-brace of organics in everything from meat to cleaning products to wine. “We know what’s in the bottle is right; I see the biodiversity in our vineyards.”

Since they started the winery with Joe’s parents—Joe Sr. and Katherine—in 1995, the Macaris have embraced the principles of biodynamics—the farming ideals developed by Austrian phi-losopher Rudolf Steiner in the 1920s. And while Steiner’s theories may be better known for their unconventional, seemingly loopy methods (head-scratchers like the iconic manure-filled buried cow horns and astrologically based planting schedules), their greater good is firmly rooted in a practical, holistic, all-encompassing view of the land and all that surrounds it. It’s about keeping and maintaining a healthy environment; something the Macaris are more than just a little passionate about.

“It’s a year-round business,” says Joe one autumn afternoon just around harvest time on a tour we take across the vast acreage Macari holds. This year, the wet, unpredictable season that was 2011 was hard on every farmer, and Joe is quick to point out some of the problems in the vineyard—browning leaves here, rot there, which is the big reason he says that going for organic certification in the Northeast is challenging. “A year like this? It’s tough,” he says, shaking his head. “It’s blood and sweat and tears.” (And, as it so happens, Red Hook Winery, the three-year-old urban wine-making project owned by the cross-country force of Napa’s Abe Schoener and Robert Foley, New York’s Mark Snyder and Max

CULT OF TASTE

FATHER AND MOTHER NATURE

Joe and Alexandra Macari and their bottles brimming with biodiversity.

BY AMY ZAVATTO

PHOTOGRAPHS BY MATTHEW FURMAN

Loubiere, and Michael Cinque rounding things out in Amagan-sett, Long Island, who purchase their fruit from Macari, nodded to Joe’s toil by christening their chardonnay “Joe’s Tears.”)

“Joe really takes it hard,” says Alexandra about plants that aren’t happy. “We try to cheer him up, and tell him, ‘It’s going to be great!’ but he’s pretty hard on himself if the vineyard isn’t happy.”

If you wound back a couple of decades, creating planting sched-ules based on the stars and planets in the sky isn’t exactly where the couple thought they’d be. Not by a longshot. Alexandra was an IVF nurse at Lenox Hill Hospital—a job she thoroughly loved and still speaks passionately about; Joe was a property manager and


real estate developer based in Jackson Heights, Queens. But 40 or so years ago, Joe Sr. had purchased over 500 acres of potato farm-land, renting the plots to local farmers and introducing Joe Jr. to the wide-open spaces and salty charms of the North Fork. After he and Alexandra met and married, they began to spend summers here, renting a house and stopping in at the now-defunct Mattituck Hills Winery for some casual swirling and sipping fun, buying a few bot-tles here and there to take back home. Little did they know they’d end up owning that very piece of property—where the North Road tasting room sits today—and its now well-established merlot vines.

By the early ’90s, it got harder and harder to leave the weekends

behind, and Joe and Alexandra decided to move out to Mattituck full-time. At first, Joe commuted back and forth while Alexandra was busy raising their then three children, with a fourth that would soon be on the way. Joe Sr. had been keeping an eye on the burgeoning wine industry, and approached his son and daughter-in-law about giv-ing a winery a go. They started with an ambitious 60 planted acres in

Searching steward: Joe Macari, and his wife, Alexandra, who have planted 100 acres of vines since the early 1990s, say they have learned that the choices you make in the vineyard affect more than the ultimate life of the plants.


1995 on the land his dad bought all those years ago. “We thought we were too big!” laughs Alexandra. A couple of years later, they planted 40 more. And while they learned from their mistakes and successes (“Now we’ve learned that lower yields make for better-tasting fruit,” says Alexandra), they also learned that farming is a very imperfect, beautiful, frustrating occupation, but one in which the choices you make affect more than the ultimate life of the plants. A conversation with a potato-farming friend clued Joe into the notion that many of the chemicals used in farming sprays were related to those used to create the Vietnam warfare herbicide Agent Orange—from that early point, he knew that this wasn’t what he wanted to work with, and he began to study the tenets of ecological and biodynamic farming.

“I’ve known the Macaris’ wines pretty much since they started,” says Chris Miller, wine director at the Living Room at the Maid-stone Arms in East Hampton, whose list focuses on sustainably minded producers. “I look for family-owned wineries,” says Miller. “Places where [the owner’s] children play there. You especially find this in Europe where domaine owners plan on passing the property to their offspring, so they take care of land in a better manner; take it to a higher level. And the Macaris have done that.” In fact, in the Macaris’ measured approach to chemical use, Miller finds some old-world precedent. “It’s what Europeans call lutte raisonnée,” says Miller. “What it means is if you’re in a region where it’s difficult or dangerous to the health of the vineyard to be 100 percent biody-namic and organic”—like in Long Island’s prevailing damp condi-tions, for instance—“you do the best you can and kill-off [pests and fungus] in the most gentle manner that you can so you don’t lose your vineyard. Macari is doing a wonderful job of this.”

Today, the Macaris have 200 acres under vine—which include merlot, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, pinot noir, syrah, petit verdot, malbec, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, and viognier—and from the get-go they eschewed chemical nitrogen in favor of a soil-enrichment program fed from nutrient-balancing “teas” (a sort of liquid soil booster that Alexandra coaxes from a mix of nettles and compost) and offerings from the mountain-high compost pile made up of leaves, vegetables, horse manure, and fish heads, tails and bones. They encourage the natural insect population and native area plants for cover crops. Joe has planted around 200 of those manure-filled horns around the property to jibe with Steiner’s soil and plant vitality program. And while Joe readily admits to the need to spray

for things like powdery mildew, especially in years as particularly uncooperative on the East End as 2011, he never uses chemical fer-tilizers or insecticides. “There are a lot of things that are wrong be-tween the cosmos and the earth; we need to fix it. And I know I’m both part of the problem and the solution, but that’s my struggle.”

The rest of the 450 acres, which include a second tasting room and its surrounding property in Cutchogue on the North Road that they acquired in 2008, are filled with a treasure of biodiversity. As lovely at the North Fork is, the beauty of their property is still some-thing to behold, and riding around it feels a bit like you’ve entered another romantic world. Maybe the Loire Valley or perhaps even some gently hilly countryside in Virginia. But no, it’s just lovely Long Island, allowed to flourish and grow under good stewardship: There are wetlands, woods of birch and locust, thickets of cattails, goldenrod and wildflowers, and, if you go far enough, a cliff that overlooks the rolling waters of the Sound. Sequestered in large, open pens around the property are grazing longhorn cattle, rab-bits, pigs, goats, turkeys and chickens. There are 70 beehives tucked into funny square houses that look like an oddball sort of outdoor filing cabinet system in three different spots scattered around the property. There are 30 acres of corn for feed; there’s an enormous greenhouse where they grow a mind-boggling amount of peppers, multiple kinds of tomatoes, eggplant, lettuce, herbs, nettles and a fig tree, too, nodding to Joe’s Frosinone, Italy, born grandparents.

With all the changing, thriving, growing life cycles on in the vineyard, there have been changes indoors at the winery, too. In July 2010, Paola Valverde of Chile, Macari’s main winemaker for seven years, left. In her place easily slipped Kelly Urbanik, a name you might know from her years spent at the former Bedell offshoot, Corey Creek. A native of Healdsburg in the heart of Napa, Cali-fornia, Urbanik fell hard for the East Coast, and the way she came to Macari was about as natural as it gets. She met Joe and Alexan-dra’s daughter, Gabriella, on a beach volleyball team, striking up a friendship in 2006 that would lead her eventually to the Macaris’ door. Urbanik is a patient, observing and thoughtful kind of wine-maker; laid-back and trusting of the good fruit Joe cultivates out in the vineyard, with a desire for wines that really show a sense of the blocks in which they are planted, and the expression of the vintage from which they came. Her imprint tends toward wines that are the best possible expression of themselves; incredibly aromatic and

Macari’s Urbanik is a patient, observing and thoughtful kind of winemaker; laid-back and trusting of the good fruit Joe cultivates out in the vineyard. Her imprint tends toward wines that are the best possible expression of themselves; incredibly aromatic and much less manipulated.


much less manipulated, and some early tastings prove extremely promising. We barrel-tasted through a few of her reds from the 2010 vintage—a fl oral, elegant, plushy cabernet franc from a plot near Bergen Road; another from older vines full of pretty, ripe plum and blackberry notes with none of the abrasive greenness that cab fran can sometimes have; an expressive, intense, vibrant merlot from the vines that stretch out behind the Mattituck tasting room, all rich, juicy black cherries, blackberries and tobacco that already was such a journey on the palate at this young point in its life.

There are other recent changes, too, to keep up with their 17,000-case-a-year production. Around the same time Kelly arrived, the Macaris added a new barrel cellar, a new private dining room for special parties with a great little tricked-out kitchen down the hall, as well as a bright new windowed tasting area with doors leading to a patio that looks out upon the vines of Block C, the original merlot acreage. Th ere’s the second tasting room, too, on Route 25, with a pretty copper-topped bar that the Macaris acquired from a nearby restaurant. And around the main tasting room in Mattituck are fl ags from other nations, representing the homelands of some of their 40 or so employees (and nodding to Alexandra’s Argentine family back-ground). “Wine has no borders,” off ers Joe. “We don’t sit around drinking our own wine every night. If you don’t get out and try the wines and food of other places, how can you judge your own?”

But like any vineyard owner, he does of course judge his own, starting at the ground level. Because, really, it all amounts to a hill of badly grown beans to them if the land isn’t any good. “Th e soil is alive,” he says. “It’s hard farming, but doing things this way revitalizes it; it connects to everything.”

Amy Zavatto grew up on Shelter Island and writes about food, wine and spirits from her home on Staten Island.

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WATER MILL—The East End of Long Island is no outpost of North African culture. If you were to marry here, and if you want-ed, say, a Tunisian delicacy like droigts de la mariée, or bride’s fin-gers, at the reception, you might make them yourself (a bad idea) or you could ring Martine Abitbol, a Shelter Island chef reared in Tunisia and France whom I love to cook with.

Alan Ceppos and Frédéric Rambaud, the owners of the Hamptons Honey Company, wisely chose the latter course of action. On July 26, at 10:30 in the morning, the two became the first gay couple to wed in Southampton. Ceppos, a New Yorker with deep-set eyes in a moon face, and Rambaud, a slender, handsome Frenchman from Senegal,

lived together in Paris for 10 years, where they developed a taste for the Tunisian cuisine that Abitbol grew up with. Having long enjoyed her food, which draws on the traditions of Tunisia’s Sephardi, Arab, Berber and Italian communities, Ceppos and Rambaud engaged Abitbol to cater a feast for 45 guests, to be held that evening.

HAPPENINGS

A COUPLE WEDS IN WATER MILLInternational fare for a pioneering state ceremony.

BY LAUREL BERGER PHOTOGRAPHS BY JENNY GORMAN

Editor’s Note: We shared in the pride people felt this past summer when Governor Cuomo made New York the sixth state, and largest state, to legalize gay marriage. And, naturally, we were curious about what food would be served at the first weddings sanctioned by this law. At Gracie Mansion, our friends at Great Performances had the privilege of catering the Sunday-morning ceremony officiated by Mayor Bloomberg, complete with Montauk seafood and Long Island wines, Hudson Valley vegetables and local cheeses, poultry and beef, Brooklyn-brewed beers, and even bouquets and floral ar-rangements picked the day before the wedding from the fields of the caterer’s own Katchkie Farm. We had the pleasure of attending one of the first gay marriages in Suffolk County, the town hall ceremony of Alan Ceppos and Frédéric Ram-baud, followed by an all-day celebration at their home in Water Mill. What follows is a play-by-play of the locavore-tinged international specialties they assembled, as chronicled by Laurel Berger and photographed by Jenny Gorman.

Sealed with a meal: After the Ceppos-Rambaud wedding din-ner, the staff and newlyweds posed, including, back row from left, Frédéric Rambaud, Cody Simons and Alan Ceppos, and, front row from left, the author, Martine Abitbol, Gabrielle Apparu, Jill Doherty and Anne Apparu.


The ingredients of a marriage: Clockwise, from above, Rambaud sam-ples the fare as the cooks prepare; thin-skinned peppers purchased that afternoon from an old farmer on Shelter Island; Abitbol frying home-made rolls, a Tunisian specialty called “fricassée” (Each was split down the middle and stuffed with méchouia just before serving.); as the guests arrive, the first batch of droigts de la mariée were deep-fried until golden; the finished fricassée; a Judeo-Tunisian feast begins with an array of kemia or cold mixed appetizers.



Recruited to help with the preparations, I met Abitbol and her capable daughter, the chef Anne Apparu, at the wedding couple’s 15-acre farm and compound on the afternoon of the dinner. At sunset massive loaves of semolina dough were still rising, platters heaped with lamb awaited the grill, and buckets of summer vegetables had not yet been dealt with for the couscous. And, of course, there were those doigts de la mariée—sheets of brick, a fragile tissue-thin pastry, filled, in this variation, with minced shrimp flavored with cilantro, lemon and garlic, and rolled into neat scrolls before being tossed into the deep fryer. Though bride’s fingers are labor-intensive and fiddly—the pastry leaves must be kept moist or they will break apart in your hands—this wouldn’t be a Tunisian wedding without them.

Soon the guests were at the door, arriving from Europe, India, Africa and the borough of Queens. A few locals filtered in. Checking my sheet pan of digits, some emaciated, others pudgy, I glanced at the clock, which read half past seven. Ceppos and Rambaud wandered into the kitchen. Dressed in caftans of shimmering silk, they looked like caliphs or extremely prosperous North African merchants. “More hot pepper!” Rambaud mock-commanded after tasting the méchouia, a mash of grilled sweet peppers, tomatoes, onions, tuna, capers and preserved lemons. “But not too much, we don’t want the taste buds overexcited.” Abitbol, who is small and agile, was a picture of serenity, as if it had not crossed her mind that unless all the elements of this meal came together snappety-snap, we’d be responsible for the first gay divorce in the Hamptons.

For a moment, I’d forgotten that she comes from a long line of brilliant cooks who are always in control. (I once witnessed her octogenarian mother bang out, chez Abitbol, an elaborate dinner for 10 featuring pkaila, a Jewish-Tunisian wedding stew of beef and greens. Later Madame remarked that she had completed the most onerous bit the day before, at her Paris apartment. That an elderly woman managed to smuggle a suspicious jar of a dark, viscous substance—spinach paste—past airport security officials is a feat as impressive as it is worrisome.)

“Allez les enfants,” Abitbol murmured, “Un dernier effort et c’est fini.” And then she told Apparu to take the minina from the fridge and prepare it for serving. Part frittata, part terrine, enriched with hard-cooked eggs and chicken, minina, eaten cold, is a Jewish-Tunisian dish served at weddings and celebrations. (In the past, calves’ brains were a common addition, but Abitbol says that almost no one includes them anymore.) You bake the mixture in a cake pan until firm, slosh on a ladle of chicken broth and cool it in the fridge. Some describe minina as a casserole but they’re wrong; with its custardy texture, it’s closer to a flan.

According to The Encyclopedia of Jewish Food, minina used to be prepared in a skillet. Once the top was set, the minina was inverted onto a plate and eased back into the skillet to cook the other side—just like a Spanish potato omelet. This makes me wonder if Jewish exiles from Spain might not have brought the dish to Tunisia. How else to

account for that mellifluous name with its ancient Castilian ring? Anyway, when the wedding party arrives, you whip out the pan,

cut the minina into cubes and have the servant offer it to the guests with small wedges of lemon, complemented by excellent sundry hors d’oeuvres, while the cooks proceed calmly with the rest of the feast.

The bride’s fingers dipped in harissa were a triumph. The chicken with preserved lemons and okra was pronounced sublime. All savored the arissa, a semolina and honey cake meant to evoke the sweetness of life. Perhaps it affected the new couple: at the end of the evening, as Apparu made room in the freezer for a tray of leftover lamb couscous next to a stash of good old cherry blintzes, Rambaud happily assured us that neither groom has any plans for a second marriage.

Laurel Berger is an arts writer in Sag Harbor.

MARTINE ABITBOL’S MININA (For eight)

10 free-range organic eggs, lightly beaten4 hard-boiled eggs, roughly diced1.5 lbs. chicken breast and thighs, on the bone (about half a chicken)A large handful of bread, crumbs only, pulled from a good country loaf3 c. homemade chicken stock or water5 T. olive oil (or more)½ lemon or lime, cut into small wedgesSalt and pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 375°. In a stockpot, poach the chicken in homemade chicken stock or salted water for 25–30 minutes, skimming off any impurities that rise to the surface. When the chicken is no longer pink, remove and discard the skin, but leave some fat, which will give the minina flavor.

Pull the meat from the bones and roughly chop it. Combine the chicken with the hard-cooked eggs in a medium-size bowl. At this point, if you poached the chicken in water, return the bones to the pot and continue cooking them for another hour until you have a good-tasting broth; otherwise, proceed with the recipe.

In a small bowl, moisten the bread with ¼–½ cup of stock. Grease a 9-inch cake pan with a generous quantity of olive oil. Warm the pan in the oven. (This operation should only take a minute or two. If the oil begins to smoke, clean the pan and start over.) Wring out the bread and add it to the bowl with the chicken and hard-boiled eggs. Tip in the beaten eggs and season the mixture aggressively with sea salt and fresh-cracked black pepper, then, wearing oven mitts, pour it into the prepared pan and cover the pan. Bake the minina for 15–20 minutes until firm. When it is done, turn off the oven, and ladle on a half-cup of chicken stock, freezing the rest for another use. Return the pan to the unlit oven for another 10 minutes or so, until most of the stock has been absorbed. Chill the minina in the refrigerator. Serve in cubed pieces garnished with small wedges of lemon.

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EAST HAMPTON—Of all the beautiful, puzzling and seemingly anachronistic objects from What’s Cooking: East Hampton Kitchens 1648–1948, an exhibit that ran at the East Hampton Historical So-ciety this past fall, the one that resonated most with me was the “baby cage,” an ominous—and unfortunately named—wooden container where a 17th-century mother cooking at an open fi re or massive wood stove could quickly stow any toddler that might wan-der too close to the hearth. (Th ink of it as a Pack-’N-Play, only not foldable and painted a very dark shade of black.) Th e baby cage had a sort of feeding tray where a baby might fi nd food or toys, and as historical society director Richard Barons discreetly pointed out to our tour group, little holes drilled through the bottom of the box-shape container. “For drainage,” he added quietly.

We’re always looking for useful tips on cooking and eating wise-ly with young children. Th e baby cage, although long extinct, shows that sometimes the right way to involve kids in kitchen tasks is to not involve them, so the parent can get on with preparing the meal, tidying and everything else we need to do to keep a home.

But this petite and meticulously displayed exhibit of 300 items, curated by Barons and Frank Newbold, the chair of the society’s collection committee, provides inspiration and guid-ance for our locavore-leaning modern food ways. Consider the extensive evidence it presents that barter and small-scale backyard homesteading were essential parts of East Hampton culture until just a half century ago. Th e diversity of butter churns and butter molds found in the society’s collection, and gathered from local households, shows that most people made their own butter and many probably kept a cow in the yard (or had access to fresh milk from nearby). Th e society’s collection includes at least 10 cheese ladders—used to make square wheels of cheese—indicating to Barons that, at a certain time, “probably every home on Main Street owned one. “Cheese curds were one of the most popular homemade treats in the 1700s.” People who regularly drank coff ee probably roasted it at home, and defi nitely ground it—by hand—at home. A long wall-mounted display of hearth tools demon-

strates that open fi re cooking need not be purely utilitarian or blunt. Th ere were tools for keeping exact temperature, precise cut-ting and careful browning of the tops of pastries. Instead of im-mersion blenders and food processors, there were berry mashers (as opposed to potato mashers), meat juice presses and sugar sheers.

Even if cheese ladders have been replaced by more modern tools and techniques, today’s DIY culture might feel at home with some of these objects, or might be creative enough to replicate their uses, sort of like Sarah Lohman, the Queens-based histori-cal gastronomist who took on the task of making ice cream from 1890. Consider an egg boiler intended to be placed on a table in a sort of performance art: boiling water was poured in the bottom, six eggs fi t above, and the device was shut for as long as it took for the top-mounted hourglass to run out, when the top would be opened and the eggs divvied up.

We may not encounter the same sort of craftspersonship in cookware today. “Like so many things in the 19th century, it’s over-engineered,” Barons said of a tabletop butter churn that had assorted drainage gutters to catch any spillage, or baking tins that were keystoned ever so slightly to allow easy extraction of what-ever was baking. Rolling pins and butter molds were made from lignum vitae, a super-hard Caribbean wood brought North by 18th-century whalers. Th ere are stackable sieves and corner cup-boards with precisely routed slots for particular tools that would make Ikea designers drool.

Th is exhibit, on display at the Clinton Academy Museum at 151 Main Street in East Hampton, was actually the culmination of nearly three years of research. Historical societies all over Long Island had conferred on a topic that they might jointly present, and settled on food. So far, the East Hampton Historical Society show is the only one that has actually been mounted. Hopefully, it will serve to prompt some of the other historical societies to dust off their butter churns and baby cages this winter.

For hours and more information, visit easthamp tonhistory.org.

HEIRLOOMS

CHEESE LADDERS, FIRKINS, BABY CAGES AND OTHER COOKING CURIOSITIES

Why should historical societies look in their pantries?BY BRIAN HALWEIL

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MOM AND POP SHOPS. Drink Local. Support wine shops that stock local wine and spirits: Michael’s in Riverhead has a whole room, as does Showcase in Southold. Domaine Franey in East Hampton is bulking up their selection of New York spirits.

Apple peeler, circa 1888.

Blue-green Greek revival corner cupboard (circa 1830) bursting with yellow-ware (circa 1850-1920).

Butter print, circa 1870.

Hearth tools (circa 1750–1850). The collection includes peels, toasters, grills, flesh forks, heart-shaped trivets and choppers.

Ingeniously improvised apple paring device.

Mortar and pestle, circa 1740.

The Ideal Stewart Stove (circa 1905) is surrounded by an amazing array of special and everyday kitchen items used by our East End ancestors.


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Cheese baskets and cheese ladders (circa 1850s) and Fruit Press (circa 1920) used predominantly by our East End ancestors for making apple cider.

Baby Cage, used by East End mothers in the 1800s to keep baby safe while cooking over an open fi re, either indoors or outdoors.

Clam shucker (circa 1880) and clam basket (circa 1800).

Salt-glazed & Redware bottles, crocks and jugs, gathered from New York State, circa 1790–1860.

Th e Davis Swing butter churn, circa 1879.

Nutmeg grater, circa 1880.

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SOUTHOLD—In early winter, when some East Enders are squirreling away thick-skinned squash in preparation for the long months seem-ingly barren of local produce, a hearty handful of men are just gearing up for their harvest.

Clamming season on Arshamomaque (or Hashamomuck) Pond, a body of salt water qui-etly sprawling between the Bay and the Sound, requires some special equipment and a certain thickness of blood. The water is shallow, making it warm in the summer and thus perfect for the fast growth of mollusks, but also prone to freez-ing after a few chilly January nights. The clam-mers come clad in neoprene waders and armed with long-handled rakes, and upon entering the water, attach to themselves a floating screen and a collecting basket.

Below their feet are hard-shell clams, “happy” and scattered across the sandy bottom among stones and debris. In order to bring his prey to the surface, a clammer must sink the tines of a large basket-rake into the bottom and slowly work the rake across a patch, using a tug-ging motion that looks like someone trying to uproot a stubborn sapling. Once brought to the surface and washed of mud, the catch is sepa-rated from the stones and tossed in the screen to sort out anything under one inch before eventu-ally being moved to the basket in batches.

VISUAL VICTUALS

COLDSEASON CLAMMINGThere are hearty harvesters

behind your winter chowder.STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS

BY CHRISTOPHER FANJUL

An early, still morning on Arshamomaque Pond, just east of the Port of Egypt Marina in Southold.



All this is accomplished under the watchful gaze of div-ing mergansers, which seem equally impervious to the wa-ter’s chill. The clams will be loaded into the back of a pickup and deposited at seafood markets on the East End and in Nassau County, where they will be sorted by size into little-necks, cherrystones and chowder clams. While clams might not drum up the same excitement as the first tomatoes of summer, they are a long-standing and flavorful element of local cuisine, and hopefully will be for years to come.

Christopher Fanjul lives in Southold and plans to forage mush-rooms, oysters and goat cheese all winter long.

A good rake and warm gloves help pull in a bucket of clams. Northern Quahogs (Mercenaria mercenaria), also called “hard-shell clams” to distinguish them from “soft-shell” steamers, conveniently packed in ice from the pond. The long-handled rake is rested on a clammer’s shoulder to get better leverage. The clams will be sorted from the stones and then kept alive in the floating basket.

ADVERTISERS DIRECTORYFARMS

Balsam FarmsSpecializing in growing high-quality produce and cut flowers. Find these and other gour-met items at our farm stand in Amagansett at the corner of Town Lane and Windmill Ln., open June–Nov. balsamfarms.com

Fairview Farm at MecoxThis family-run farm bordering Mecox Bay specializes in beautiful herbs, fruit and veg-etables, one-of-a-kind bunches of cut flow-ers, Mecox Bay Dairy cheeses, Berkshire pigs and fresh pastured chicken and duck eggs. The famous 8-acre corn maze is open Labor Day through Nov. 8. Farm stand at 19 Horsemill Ln., Bridgehampton, 631.537.1445, cornfieldmaze.comGarden of Eve Organic Farm Market & Garden CenterThis Riverhead farm offers a large selection of organic vegetable & herb plants, annuals and perennials, as well as their own organic heirloom vegetables, cut flowers, and free-range pastured eggs, on site from April 1 until Thanksgiving. And at farmers markets in Westhampton Beach, Mt. Sinai, and Williamsburg, Brooklyn, as well as through CSAs on the farm, across Long Island, in Manhattan, Brooklyn and Queens. 4558 Sound Ave. (at Northville Tpk.), Riverhead, 631.722.8777, gardenofevefarm.com

Golden Earthworm Organic FarmCelebrating over 13 years of beautiful cer-tified organic produce and community-supported agriculture (CSA) Program, they look forward to welcoming you all into their growing farm community. Join now for the 2010 CSA which runs June through November with 28 pick-up locations in Suffolk, Nassau, and Queens Counties. 652 Peconic Bay Blvd., Jamesport, 631.722.3302, goldenearthworm.com

Green Thumb Organic FarmFarmed by the Halsey family since the 1640s, this 100-acre property is the oldest organic farm in NYS, and is biodynamic, too. The roadside farm stand offers over 300 varieties of vegetables, fruit, herbs, flowers and seedlings, and other products made by local artisans. Weekend pony rides and fall farm tours. Montauk Hwy., Water Mill, 631.726.1900

The Milk Pail Farm, Orchard & GreenhousesA farm-family tradition in Water Mill offer-ing U-pick apples and pears, pumpkins, cider, cider donuts, peaches, cherries, flowers and more. Montauk Highway between Water Mill and Bridgehampton, milk-pail.com)

Pike FarmsThis one-stop farm stand features strawber-ries, raspberries, early greenhouse tomatoes, field tomatoes and famous sweet corn—as well as fruits, granola, f lowers, pies and artisanal breads. Wholesale available. Sagg Main St., Sagaponack, 631.537.5854

Sang Lee FarmsThis Peconic farms offers organic veg-etables and herbs, local artisanal prod-ucts, and their own line of dressings, dips, cooking sauces, prepared and preserved foods. Visit website to learn about events, classes, CSA and farmers markets. 25180 County Rd. 48, Peconic, 631.734.7001, sangleefarms.com

Quail Hill FarmOne of the original CSAs in the country with over 200 members enjoying organic produce and field-grown flowers, Quail

Hill also provides produce to a local school, food pantries, a farmers market and local restaurants. Only proven sus-tainable farming techniques are used. Synthetic insecticides, herbicides, fun-gicides and fertilizers are avoided. Deep Ln. and Side Hill Ln., Amagansett, 283.3195, peconiclandtrust.org

Springfield CreameryThis family business offers history, a commitment to values and a short list of healthful ingredients as their recipe for suc-cess—50 years and counting. Producers of high-quality cultured dairy and soy prod-ucts that are uncompromising in their com-mitment to simple, healthy and all-natural ingredients, Springfield Creamery has been a pioneer of cultured yogurt production within the natural foods industry. A com-mitment to providing the most healthful products to the largest number of people has earned Springfield Creamery recogni-tion, like Oregon Tilth’s “2009 Organic Producer of the Year” award, and Oregon Organic Coalition’s 2010 “Processor of the Year” award. nancysyogurt.com

FARMERS MARKETSThe Community Farmers Market at the Hayground SchoolA collaborative school-community farm-ers market on Fridays, Memorial Day weekend-Labor Day weekend from 3-6:30 p.m., on the beautiful grounds of the Hayground School. Locally grown pro-duce (including student-grown seedlings, vegetables and flowers), seafood, farmstead cheeses, European-style baked goods, wine, organic infused olive oils, spreads and fresh pasta, pizza and more. 151 Mitchell Ln., Bridgehampton, 631.987.3553

East Hampton Farmers MarketNestled in the parking lot of Hamptons land-mark restaurant Nick & Toni’s, this Friday market features locally grown vegetables and fruit, honey, farmstead cheeses, mushrooms, colorful plants and flowers, goat’s milk fudge, the best baguette on Long Island, wine, fabu-lous French bakery items, local seafood and homespun llama wool. 136 North Main St., East Hampton, 631.324.3550

Sag Harbor Farmers MarketThis bayfront market offers local and organic produce, artisanal baked goods, raw-milk cheeses, pickles, seafood, mush-rooms, honey, wine and f lowers and herbs. Bay and Burke St., Sag Harbor.

Westhampton Beach Farmers Market40+ farmers, growers and producers all from Long Island! The largest farmers mar-ket in the Hamptons offering local bounty. Rain or Shine, Saturdays 9 a.m.–1 p.m., May 7–Nov 19, 2011. 85 Mill Rd (Village Municipal Parking Lot next to the WHB Historical Society). 631.288.3337, [email protected], WesthamptonBeachFarmersMarket.com

COFFEE ROASTERSHampton Coffee CompanyThe award-winning coffee roastery, espresso bar, & bakery with locations in Water Mill and Westhampton Beach, features small-batch hand-roasted Arabica beans. It offers an authentic Mexican grill menu at the Water Mill full-service café, and breakfast, lunch and outdoor seating at both locations, as well as their new Mobile Espresso Unit. Water Mill & Westhampton Beach, 631.726.COFE, hamptoncoffeecompany.com


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BREWERIESFire Island Beer CompanyFire Island Beer Company crafts worldclass beers inspired by the color, character and deli-cious experience of Fire Island, NY. Look for Fire Island Lighthouse Ale and Red Wagon IPA at your favorite restaurant, beer bar or beverage store. fireislandbeer.com

Greenport Harbor BreweryLocated at the very end of Long Island, Greenport Harbor Brewery specializes in making fresh small batch craft ale, with the mission to constantly challenge people’s notion of what a beer can be. Visit them at the brewery, online or at the bars, restau-rants, and beverage centers (growlers) who carry them. 234 Carpenter St., Greenport, 631.477.6681, harborbrewing.com

Southampton Publick HouseThe East End’s first microbrewery restau-rant offers Long Island’s finest casual din-ing alongside handcrafted ales and lagers, which are also available at specialty beer bars and restaurants throughout New England. 40 Bowden Sq., Southampton, 283.2800, publick.com

RESTAURANTSA Lure Chowderhouse & OysteriaThe North Fork’s latest waterfront restau-rant featuring local seafood and spirits with a nouveau flair. Enjoy the views of Southold Bay whether inside our cozy dining room or relaxing on our luxurious wrap around deck. 62300 Main Rd., Rte. 25, Southold; 631.876.5300; alurenorthfork.com

A Mano Osteria & Wine BarTuscan dining with highlight on delec-table local fare, produce and cheese from the North Fork’s bounty, paired with an extensive Italian and local wine list. 631.298.4800; amanorestaurant.com

AlmondThis contemporary French bistro serves seasonally driven fare, using local and artisanal ingredients, with a year-round $24.95 prix fixe and the “Best Dessert in the Hamptons,” according to Wine Spectator. 1 Ocean Road, Bridgehampton, 631.537.8885, almondrestaurant.com

AmarelleThis North Shore culinary gem, which overlooks a scenic duck pond in Wading River on the threshold of North Fork wine country, serves up contemporary country cuisine at the skillful hand of co-owner and executive chef Lia Fallon. It features many Long Island wines by the glass to go with the French-inspired dishes that uti-lize local fruits, cheese, produce and duck. 2028 North Country Road, Wading River. 631.886.2242, amarelle.net

Babette’sBabette’s mostly organic menu features world f lavors and local produce, veg-etarian/vegan cuisine and organic grassfed meats, in a casual-chic atmosphere with cool jazz. Serving breakfast until 4 p.m., lunch and dinner, and offering an organic juice bar, organic wines and full liquor bar. 66 Newtown Ln., East Hampton, 631.329.5377, babettesrestaurant.com.

Bay BurgerThis Sag Harbor burger joint serves their own freshly ground beef on a homemade brioche-style bun, as well as homemade ice cream (available in Hamptons specialty shops as Joe & Liza’s Ice Cream) and their amazing local fish burger. 1742 Sag Harbor Tpk., Sag Harbor, 631.899.3915, bayburger.com

Beacon RestaurantWaterfront dining with groovy sunsets, Beacon serves solid American fare in the comfort of a great bar and leather ban-quettes. Available for private functions. 8 W. Water St., Sag Harbor, 725.7088

Blackwell’s RestaurantPerfectly located at the gateway to Long Island Wine Country, Blackwell’s offers exceptional pairings with prime dry-aged steaks and chops and fresh local sea-food. 141 Fairway Dr., Wading River. 631.929.1200, greatrockgolfclub.com

Ciao Bella SenhoraVeteran restaurateur and family offer excep-tional Northern Italian cuisine and delicious Portuguese specialties, with delicacies from Brazil and France. International wines paired with the finest flavored churrasco wood-fired rotisserie meats, poultry, and sea-food. Foodies welcome! 322 West Montauk Hwy, Hampton Bays, 631.728.2218, ciaobellasenhora.com.

Fresno RestaurantServing regional American cuisine night-ly, year-round, Fresno boasts a zinc-top bar, warm lighting and patio seating in season. Prix fixe menu available. 8 Fresno Pl., East Hampton, 324.8700

The Frisky OysterChef/owner Robert Beaver offers imagina-tive cuisine in the sophisticated, metro-politan atmosphere craved by locals and visitors for years. His menu changes daily to showcase the most exceptional, local ingredients from Pipes Cove, KK’s, Sep’s and Satur Farms to name a few. The local and international wine list is personally selected to complement the current menu. Dinner is available in their stylish dining room or at the buzzing bar. DJ Frisky turns up the beat as the energy level rises after 9 p.m. 27 Front St., Greenport, 631.477.4265, thefriskyoyster.com

Foody’sBetter food for the entire family. Cooking from scratch and hand-selecting farm-fresh produce, enjoy wood-grilled meats and veg-gies, house-made mozzarella, hand-stretched thin crust pizza and abundant local seafood and veggies. Catering available. 760 Montauk Hwy., Water Mill, 726.FOOD

Jamesport Manor InnExperience North Fork history and unprecedented local cuisine in the mag-nificently reconstructed 1850’s Gothic Revival mansion, featuring an extensive list of carefully selected wines, as well as a local artist art gallery. Private din-ing rooms and catering available. 370 Manor Ln., Jamesport, 631.722.0500, jamesportmanor.com

La FonditaLa Fondita, “little kitchen,” serves tacos, posole rojo, homemade salsas, sopes, tostadas and other dishes reminiscent of the street food found all over Mexico. A fun and casual atmosphere, offering takeout and seating on picnic tables over-looking the pond. 74 Montauk Hwy., Amagansett, 267.8800, lafondita.net

The Little KitchenLocated just outside Sag Harbor, this country restaurant features East End sea-food, wines, produce, fruit, vegetables and herbs from the restaurant’s own garden. 1615 Sag Harbor-Bridgehampton Tpk., Sag Harbor, 725.1045, eatshampton.com


Lobster Roll NorthsideThe critically acclaimed country version of the famed Hampton’s seafooder (LUNCH) operated by the originator! A “must do” dining experience while on the North Fork! 631.369.3039; Lobster Roll.com

Luce & Hawkins at Jedediah Hawkins InnThis historic Jamesport inn and restaurant offers warm service and a unique “earth to table” dining experience from acclaimed chef Keith Luce. The casual Luce’s Landing menu is a perfect entry point to discovering the f lavors of the North Fork. 400 S. Jamesport Ave., Jamesport, 631.722.2900,jedediahhawkinsinn.com

Nick & Toni’sA forerunner to the East End’s current restaurant community, Nick & Toni’s is reminiscent of a Tuscan farmhouse. The Mediterranean- and rustic Italian-influenced seasonal menus feature local seafood, pro-duce and the harvest from the restaurant’s own organic garden. 136 N. Main St., East Hampton, 631.324.3550, nickandtonis.com

Noah’s RestaurantThis Greenport restaurant offers a range of small plates with inspired takes on tradi-tional seafood dishes, with locally-sourced ingredients. Featuring the only raw bar on the North Fork, with local and internation-al oysters, as well as wines available in 3- or 6-ounce pours. 136 Front St., Greenport, 631.477.6720, chefnoahs.com

North Fork Oyster CompanyNorth Fork Oyster Company serves cre-ative cuisine featuring the freshest local produce and seafood from waters surround-ing it on the East End of Long Island. Be sure to contact us when looking for a place to host your private event. 300 Main St. (Sterling Sq.) Greenport; 631.477.6840; northforkoystercompany.com

The North Fork Table & InnGerry Hayden and Claudia Fleming pro-vide progressive American menus com-mitted to the highest standard of culinary excellence. Understated elegance replaces utility in each room in the tradition of the finest European and American coun-try inns. 57225 Main Rd., Southold, 765.0177, northforktableandinn.com

The Old Mill InnBuilt in 1820 and tucked into an unspoiled corner of Long Island, this waterfront res-taurant serves local, fresh fare overlooking Mattituck Inlet. 5775 W. Mill Rd., Mattituck, 631.298.8080, theoldmillinn.net

Red Bar BrasserieFrench-inspired American cuisine and an award-winning wine list presented by a professional and friendly staff. Sophisticated and welcoming. Off-season prix fixe menu. 210 Hampton Rd., Southampton, 631.283.0704

The Riverhead ProjectLocated in the District neighborhood of Riverhead, the newest addition of restaura-teur Dennis McDermott offers a contempo-rary American menu with ethnic and healthy influences. With honest food, excellent cock-tails and an inspired wine list, TRP contrib-utes energy, style and sense of community to the East End’s restaurant scene. Downstairs, the vault and adjacent vault bar are available for private dining and conferences. Outdoor dining and lounging has a Palm Springs feel in the warmer seasons. Open in May for lunch and dinner. 300 East Main St., Riverhead; 631.284.9300

Rowdy HallEnglish pub and French bistro-style cuisine. An Arts-and-Crafts-inspired restaurant, with beautiful copper-topped bar and soothing fireplace. According to local lore, churchgoing locals found the establishment still full of revelers on Sunday mornings and declared it a “rowdy hall.” A gathering place for locals and visi-tors alike. 10 Main St., East Hampton, 631.324.8555, rowdyhall.com

Rugosa RestaurantA year-round destination for modern American fine dining in East Hampton. Chef Bill Mammes applies his training in contemporary French cuisine to local, sea-sonal ingredients delivering a fresh approach to Hamptons Dining. 290 Montauk Highway, East Hampton, 631.604.1550

ScrimshawThis restaurant’s historic waterfront buildings, with panoramic views, open-air dining and drinks on the dock, reflect Greenport’s whaling history while its cuisine ref lects modern tastes—a blend-ing of classic techniques with Asian and global inf luences. Preston’s Wharf, 102 Main St., Greenport, 631.477.8882, scrimshawrestaurant.com

The Sea Grille at Gurney’s InnOverlooking the Atlantic Ocean, the renowned Sea Grille reflects Montauk’s fishing legacy offering morning-caught fish, locally harvested shellfish, farmers organic produce and regional specialties. Spa guests choose from world-class menus featuring preparations of the freshest ingre-dients. 290 Old Montauk Hwy., Montauk, 631.668.2660, gurneysinn.com

Squiretown Restaurant + BarThis modern A mer ican bi s t ro in Hampton Bays offers beautiful salads, a raw bar, exciting appetizers, delicious sandwiches, steaks, local seafood and great wine, paired with impeccable ser-vice and a great atmosphere. Take out & Catering available. 26 W. Montauk Hwy., Hampton Bays 631.723.2626.

Town Line BBQTexas-style on Montauk Highway. East Enders looking for beef and pork ribs, burnt end sandwiches, pickles and cornbread will enjoy the stripped-down decor and menu straight out of the Barbecue Belt. 3593 Townline Rd. (and Montauk Hwy.), Sagaponack, 537.2271, townlinebbq.com

GOURMET FOODS

Cavaniola’s KitchenChurning out everything from smoked fish pate to potato chips to soups and salads, this shop next to Cavaniola’s Gourmet (cheese) and Cavaniola’s Cellar (wine) offers a range of fresh-made, ready-to-eat delectables, as well as an extensive catering menu. 89 Division St., Sag Harbor, 631.725.8100, cavaniola.com

A Taste of the North ForkHomegrown f lavors, freshness, sophis-ticated taste. Enjoy the preserves, mus-tards, vinegars, sauces, spreads—all made from naturally grown, organic and local fruits, f lowers and herbs. Available at the Sag Harbor Farmers Market and at their store in Peconic. Custom-made gift baskets, corporate gifts and event favors available. 2885 Peconic Ln., Peconic, 631.734.6100, atasteofthenorthfork com


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GROCERY STORESAmagansett Farmers MarketThis local landmark, now run by Eli Zabar is part farmer’s market, part gourmet food store and all about Eli’s committment to local, sustainable and delicious. Don’t miss the Amagansett loaf fresh out of the oven. 367 Main St., Amagansett, 631.267.3894

Whole Foods MarketThe world’s leading organic and natural foods supermarket. With new stores in Manhasset and Jericho, Whole Foods Market carries a growing selection of LI-grown produce, seafood, and other edibles from small food makers. A one-stop shop for natural meats, healthy baked goods, organic produce, and nontoxic beauty and cleaning products. 2101 Northern Blvd., Manhasset, 516.869.8900; 429 North Bwy., Jericho, 516.932.1733, wholefoodsmarket.com

BAKERIESBlue Duck Bakery CaféEverything Blue Duck sells is hand-formed and baked fresh on premises, daily. Find their signature line of artisanal breads and finest quality pastries and cakes at East End grocers, fine restaurants and all local farmers markets. 30 Hampton Rd., Southampton, 631.204.1701; also 56275 Main Rd., Southold, 631.629.4123

BreadzillaServing scones, muffins, hand-rolled bagels, granola and other breakfast fare baked each morning. Everything made from scratch, including soups, salads, sandwiches, pizzas and pies featuring local produce and sea-food. Specialty meats, pastries, birthday and wedding cakes made to order. 84 Wainscott NW Rd., off Montauk Hwy., Wainscott, 537.0955, breadzilla.com

ARTISANAL FOODSBees’ NeedsThese East End honeys, produced with small-scale, noninvasive practices that promote bees’ health, are raw and unfil-tered, multif loral blends that provide customers with an expressive range of artisanal honeys. CSA shares available. Products sold at Sag Harbor farmers mar-ket, The Greenthumb farmstand, Quail Hill Farm, Juicy Naam and Marder’s. 631.702.5657, [email protected]

Catapano Dairy FarmLong Island’s only goat dairy is a fam-ily-operated farm specializing in hand-crafted goat’s milk cheeses and pure goat’s milk skin care products. 33705 North Rd., Peconic, 631.765.8042, catapanodairyfarm.com

Chocolate SommelierRoxanne Browning hosts chocolate and wine pairings to bring awareness of excep-tional direct-trade, single-origin artisanal chocolates. Guests enjoy their two favorite pleasures at these entertaining and educa-tional events held at wine bars, vineyards and restaurants for public, business and pri-vate functions. ExoticChocolateTasting.com, 631.252.0658

The Hamptons Honey Company:Your source for unprocessed, local and raw honey—just as the bees intend-ed. By working directly with other small-sca le beekeepers and family-owned apiaries around the world, the Southampton-based Hamptons Honey Company’s goal is to offer local, arti-sanal honey wherever our label is found. 888.365.2325, hamptonshoney.com

Mecox DairyIn a converted 19th-century potato barn, Arthur and Stacy Ludlow turn out award-winning cheeses from their small herd of Jersey cows that graze near Mecox Bay. Available at Cavaniola’s Gourmet and Schiavoni’s in Sag Harbor, the Village Cheese Shop in Southampton and Mattituck, and Fairview Farm Stand on Horsemill Lane in Bridgehampton. 855 Mecox Rd., Bridgehampton, 631.537.0335, mecoxbaydairy.com

Organic ValleyThis farmer-owned co-op produces milk, cheese, butter, eggs, juice, soy beverages, produce and meats—all organic. Available at major grocers and health food stores. 1 Organic Way, La Farge, WI 54639, 888.444.MILK, organicvalley.coop

INNS AND B&B’SHarbor KnollA waterfront B&B with its own private beach and dock. It is an 1870’s Dutch Colonial manor house decorated in the English country-house style, with won-derful gardens and spectacular views, very quiet, yet within easy walking dis-tance of Greenport Village and transport directly to NYC. 424 4th St., Greenport; 631.477.2352; harborknoll.com

Jedediah Hawkins InnWinner of the prestigious New York Historic Preservation Award and listed in the National Register of Historic Houses, this meticulously restored Capta in’s ma nsion of fer s lu xur y accommodations , warm service and a unique “earth to table” dining experi-ence from chef-proprietor Keith Luce. 400 S. Jamesport Ave., Jamesport, 631.722.2900,jedediahhawkinsinn.com

The Mill House InnA gracious inn in the heart of historic East Hampton Village with beautifully appointed rooms, spectacular child and dog-friendly suites, and “the best break-fast in the Hamptons.” Their Graybarn Cottage is ideal for small weddings, con-ferences and retreats. Named in the “Top 50 Small Hotels” by the Zagat US Hotel Guide. 31 N. Main St., East Hampton, 631.324.9766, millhouseinn.com

NFBBARest Assured—Select an inspected member inn approved by the North Fork B&B Assn. (NFBBA); for 20 years the only organization for B&B’s on Long Island recognized by NYS. 877.883.9333; [email protected]

The North Fork Table & InnGerry Hayden and Claudia Fleming pro-vide progressive American menus com-mitted to the highest standard of culinary excellence. Understated elegance replaces utility in each room in the tradition of the finest European and American coun-try inns. 57225 Main Rd., Southold, 765.0177, northforktableandinn.com

The Old Mill InnBuilt in 1820 and tucked into an unspoiled corner of Long Island, this waterfront restaurant serves local, fresh fare overlooking Mattituck Inlet. 5775 W. Mill Rd., Mattituck, 631.298.8080, theoldmillinn.net

Orient InnBuilt in 1906, this arts-and-crafts style farm-house is located on Main Road, Orient, just 2 ½ miles from the Cross Sound ferry dock. Orient Inn is seconds away from the historic Hamlet of Orient, which is surrounded by

water and beaches where guests enjoy all that nature provides for outdoor activities. Orient Inn includes comfortable living rooms, fire-places and five guest rooms each with pri-vate baths. Chef Joan Turturro, a graduate of the French Culinary Institute, provides a memorable breakfast. Dinner is available with advanced notice. The Inn is available for theme events and workshops. Orient Inn, 25500 Main Rd., Orient; 631.323.2300, [email protected], orientinn-ny.com

Ruby’s CoveWalk to restaurants, brewery, oyster bar and the harbor and a short drive to wineries, farm stands and beaches. 151 Bay Ave, Greenport, 631.477.1837, rubyscovebnb.com

Shorecrest Bed and BreakfastVoted “Best B&B on Long Island” by Channel 12 news viewers, and the only B&B with our own beach on Long Island Sound. Great food, elegant comfort, spectacular gardens, good times! 54300 Cty Rte. 48, Southold; 631.765.1570; shorecrestbedandbreakfast.com

CHEESE SHOPSCavaniola’s Gourmet Cheese ShopFamily-owned and -run cheese shop offering over 150 types of local, domes-tic and imported cheeses. Paninis, soups and fondue to go, as well as a beautiful selection of olive oils, balsamics, olives, pâtés, fresh breads, pastries and more. 89B Division St., Sag Harbor, 725.0095

Lucy’s WheyAn exciting new shop offering a large, carefully chosen selection of unique American artisanal cheeses, as well as other handcrafted American products, including salamis, chutneys, oils, vinegars, rubs and crostini. 80 N. Main St., East Hampton, 324.4428, lucyswhey.com

SEAFOOD SHOPSStuart’s Seafood MarketThe oldest fish market on the East End, bay-men bring the catch of the day directly from their boats to Stuart’s door. Specializing in dayboat-fresh local seafood as well as hardshell Nova Scotia lobsters of all sizes, available live or cooked to order along with a wide selection of gourmet provisions. Full-service clambakes and catering. Voted Best Clambake Caterer in the Dan’s Paper’s Readers’ Poll. 41 Oak Ln., Amagansett, 267.6700, stuartsseafood.com

CHOCOLATEChocolate SommelierRoxanne Browning hosts chocolate and wine pairings to bring awareness of exceptional direct-trade, single-origin artisanal choco-lates. Guests enjoy their two favorite pleasures at these entertaining and educational events held at wine bars, vineyards and restaurants for public, business and private functions. ExoticChocolateTasting.com, 631.252.0658

WINERIESBedell Cellars and Corey Creek VineyardsFounded in 1980, Bedell North Fork is recognized as a leader in Long Island wine growing. With 78 planted acres, the winery produces award-winning mer-lots, Bordeaux-style blends and a special Artist Series under the Bedell Cellars label, and a range of small-batch varietal wines under the Corey Creek Vineyards label. Bedell Cellars, 36225 Main Rd. (Rt. 25), Cutchogue, 734.7537; Corey Creek Vineyards, Main Rd., Southold, 765.4168, bedellcellars.com

Channing Daughters WineryA small, artisanal, quality-driven winery specializing in the production of focused, individual lots of wine made from an array of grape varieties. Employing traditional winemaking methods and experimentation and creativity to achieve varietal and mul-tivarietal wines of class and distinction. 1927 Scuttlehole Rd., Bridgehampton, 537.7224, channingdaughters.com

Gramercy VineyardsFounded in 2003 by Carol Sullivan and Erich Moenius, Gramercy Vineyards in Mattituck is the producer of a trio of bou-tique wines that includes a rosé, an Estate Merlot and an exclusive Reserve Estate Merlot. 10020 Sound Avenue, Mattituck, GramercyVineyards.com

Jamesport VineyardsA father-son collaboration that began in 1981, Jamesport Vineyards’ 60 acres constitute one of the North Fork’s old-est vineyards. All of their wines are pro-duced using only their high-quality fruit. A large grassy backyard is available for musical events, private parties and wed-dings. Main Rd., Rt. 25, Jamesport, 631.722.5256, jamesportwines.com

LenzFounded in 1978, Lenz is one of the oldest wineries on the East End. Owned and operat-ed by Peter and Deborah Carroll, Lenz creates critically acclaimed chardonnays, gewürz-traminers, merlots, cabernets and sparkling (méthode champenoise) wines. Main Rd./Rt. 25, Peconic, 734.6010, lenzwine.com

Macari VineyardsMacari vineyards has been known to sow wildflowers and release thousands of ladybugs in their largely organic approach to managing their 180 acres of vines. Sip wines at their tasting room or on their covered deck. Available for private par-ties, weddings and corporate events. 150 Bergen Ave., Mattituck; 24385 Route 25, Cutchogue, 298.0100, macariwines.com

McCall RanchThis family ranch specializes in fine estate wines and grassfed organic cattle, and has been growing and selling pinot noir and merlot on Long Island’s North Fork for 14 years. A commitment to the preservation of local wild and agricultural land and to our environment in a broader view is integral to our mission. The tasting room is open 12.30–5.30 p.m. Thurs–Sun. 22600 Rte 25 in Cutchogue. 631.734.5764

Osprey’s DominionThe 75-acre winery is the first on Long Island to contract for a wind turbine, with a ground breaking this past fall attended by executives from LIPA, Eastern Energy, the press, and local politicians, and an unveiling this coming spring. Visit their tasting room and see the future of energy in Long Island wine country. 44075 Main Rd., Peconic, 631.765.6188, ospreysdominion.com

Palmer VineyardsFounded in 1923 on a rolling parcel of grav-elly farmland on the North Fork of Long Island, Palmer Vineyards has become a sig-nificant part of the Long Island wine industry where “excellence is never an accident.” The tasting room is open year-round, regularly hosts music, and is available for special events. 5120 Sound Ave., Riverhead, 631.722.WINE (9463), palmervineyards.com.


Paumanok VineyardsFounded in 1983, Paumanok is an estate winery dedicated to the production of pre-mium vinifera wines. The Massouds grow chardonnay, chenin blanc, sauvignon blanc, riesling, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, merlot and petit verdot. 1074 Main Rd., Aquebogue, 722.8800, paumanok.com

RaphaelEstablished in 1996, Raphael is dedicat-ed to the production of Long Island mer-lot, and continues a centuries-old tradi-tion of winemaking for the Petrocelli Family that incorporates both New World advances and Old World tradi-tions to produce wine ref lecting both the terroir and spirit of a great Bordeaux chateau. 39390 Main Rd., Peconic, 631.765.1100, raphaelwine.com

Sherwood House VineyardsSince l996, committed to the production of world-class wines using only estate-grown vinifera grapes. “There’s very little nature and man can do in true harmo-ny,” says owner Dr. Charles Smithen. “A vineyard is one of those things.” 2600 Oregon Rd., Mattituck, 212.828.3426, sherwoodhousevineyards.com

Shinn Estate VineyardsThis Mattituck vineyard and winery believes that a sustainable approach to growing wine and natural techniques in the cellar result in wines that ref lect both the land and the individual grow-ing seasons. Their biologically intensive viticulture allows the vines to produce balanced and complex wines vintage after vintage. 2000 Oregon Road Mattituck, 631.804.0367, shinnestatevineyards.com

Sparkling PointeSparkling Pointe’s award-winning spar-kling wines are executed with artistry and f inesse in the traditional French Méthode Champenoise. We like to call it “romance in a bottle.” 631.765.0200, sparklingpointe.com

Wölffer Estate VineyardFounded in 1987, Wölffer Estate has become a leader in the wine industry. The East Coast climate, similar to Bordeaux, combined with the terroir and the maritime influence, make the Hamptons an outstanding region for growing wines. Surrounded by 55 acres of rolling hills planted with vines, the neatly trel-lised vineyard provides a magnificent setting for wine tastings and social events. 139 Sagg Rd., Sagaponack, 631.537.5106, wolffer.com

Please visit these members of the Long Island Wine Council.

Ackerly Pond Vineyards631.765.6861, ackerlypondvineyards.com

Baiting Hollow Farm Vineyard631.369.0100, baitinghollowfarmvineyard.comBedell Cellars631.734.7537, bedellcellars.comBella Vita Vineyard631.734.8282, bellavitavineyard.comBouké Wines877.877.0527, boukewines.comCastello di Borghese Vineyard & Winery631.734.5111, castellodiborghese.comChanning Daughters Winery631.537.7224, channingdaughters.comChristiano Family Vineyardschristianowines.com

Clovis Point631.722.4222, clovispointwines.comComtesse Thérèse631.871.9194, comtessetherese.comCorey Creek Vineyards631.765.4168, coreycreek.comCroteaux Vineyards631.765.6099, croteaux.comDiliberto Winery631.722.3416, dilibertowinery.comDuck Walk Vineyards631.726.7555, duckwalk.comDuck Walk Vineyards North631.765.3500, duckwalk.comHarbes Family Farm & Vineyard631.298.WINE(9463),harbesfamilyfarm.comJamesport Vineyards631.722.5256, jamesportwines.comJason’s Vineyard631.238.5801, jasonsvineyard.comLaurel Lake Vineyards631.298.1420, llwines.comLieb Family Cellars631.298.1942, liebcellars.comLong Island Meadery631.285.7469, limeadery.comLoughlin Vineyards631.589.0027, loughlinvineyard.comMacari Vineyards & Winery631.298.0100, macariwines.comMartha Clara Vineyards631.298.0075, marthaclaravineyards.comMattebella Vineyards888.628.8323, mattebellavineyards.comMcCall Vineyards404.274.2809, mccallwines.comOnabay Vineyard917.715.0605, onabayvineyards.comOne Woman Vineyards631.765.1200, onewomanwines.comOsprey’s Dominion Vineyards631.765.6188, ospreysdominion.comPalmer Vineyards631.722.WINE, palmervineyards.comPeconic Bay Winery631.734.7361, peconicbaywinery.comPellegrini Vineyards631.734.4111, pellegrinivineyards.comPindar Vineyards631.734.6200, pindar.netPugliese Vineyards631.734.4057, pugliesevineyards.comRaphael631.765.1100, raphaelwine.comRoanoke Vineyards631.727.4161, roanokevineyards.comScarola Vineyards631.335.4199, scarolavineyards.comSherwood House Vineyards631.779.2817, sherwoodhousevineyards.comShinn Estate Vineyards631.804.0367, shinnestatevineyards.comSparkling Pointe631.765.0200, sparklingpointe.comSuhru Wines631.603.8127, suhruwines.comThe Grapes of Roth631.725.7999, thegrapesofroth.com


A TWIN PEAKS GEEKS PRODUCTION

GeekHampton™

all Mac all the Time

MAC SERVICE AC SUPPORT AC SALES

631.723.3660

We know

The Old Field Vineyards631.765.0004, theoldfield.comVineyard 48631.734.5200, vineyard48winery.comWaters Crest Winery631-734-5065, waterscrestwinery.comWölffer Estate631.537.5106, wolffer.com

WINE SHOPSCavaniola’s CellarThis wine shop in the historic Umbrella building offers a wide selection of limit-ed-run Old World wines designed to go with the cheese and other offerings from Cavaniola’s Gourmet and Cavaniola’s Kitchen next door. 89 Division St., Sag Harbor, 631.725.2930, cavaniola.com

Domaine FraneyThis East Hampton wine shop, run by the son of famed author and chef Pierre Franey, specializes in wines from Burgundy and caters to wine enthusiasts, including those looking for well-priced bottles or the perfect meal pairing. 459 Pantigo Rd., East Hampton, 631.324.0906, domainefraney.com

Michael’s Wines & SpiritsLowest prices around! The knowledge-able staff will help you select from the most extensive inventory of wines and champagnes on the East End, including the best selection of Long Island wines at competitive prices. Delivery available. 802 Main St., Riverhead, 631.727.7410

WINE BARSA ManoThis osteria and wine bar in Mattituck features local farmers, cheesemakers, fishers and winer-ies, as well as Italian varietals from American and Italian wineries. 13550 Main Rd, Mattituck, 631.298.4800, amanorestaurant.com

SPIRITSHendrick’s GinWith delightful infusions of cucumber and rose, one would be a fool to forgo the unusually delicious Hendrick’s Gin! Simply put, no other gin tastes like Hendrick’s because no other gin is made like Hendrick’s. hendricksgin.com

ORGANIC FOOD STORESThe Juicy NaamAn oasis of organic juices, smoothies and freshly prepared live food. Stop by for organic local produce, a full menu of the best juices, snacks, salads, raw soups and nori rolls, for takeout or catering, as well as daily Naam Yoga and a full range of healing bodywork. We also offer fully customized private cleanses and juice fasts that will detox and rejuvenate you from the inside out, and a wonderful array of visiting healers and health experts throughout the summer. 27 Race Ln., East Hampton and 51 Division Street/Route 114, Sag Harbor. New York City: 1295 Madison Ave. The Wales Hotel; 876-6000, thejuicynaam.us

The MarketAn organic food market with gourmet items, delivery, catering and customized meal preparation, the Market offers café, indoor/outdoor dining right on Front Street. Fresh organic produce, vitamins, bulk grains, pasta, nuts, personal care, wheat-free. Café offers delicious organic and vegetarian soups, salads, sandwiches and juices. 130 Front St., Greenport, 631.477.8803

Provisions Natural Foods Market & CafeCommitted to serving healthy food, Provisions offers a snug retreat for a memorable organic lunch. Café is open for breakfast and lunch, serving chicken and veggie wraps, omelets, marinated brown rice, soups and homemade muf-fins and corn bread, a juice and smooth-ie bar, and a full line of “Earth Friendly” groceries, cosmetics, books, gifts and organic produce. Bay and Division St., Sag Harbor, 725.3636

NATURAL PRODUCTS

ShakleeFor over 50 years, generations of families have counted on us to do what no other company can do quite like Shaklee—make products that are naturally safe AND proven effective. Every product that goes into every Shaklee bottle is designed to improve health, work without compromise and be gentle on the planet. 631.236.2670. [email protected]. BeTheChange.MyShaklee.com

PUBLIC RELATIONS

WordHampton Public RelationsEstablished in 1992, award-winning WordHampton represents signature hos-pitality, real estate and lifestyle businesses from the East End to New York City, building client reputations and revenues through strategic and creative think-ing, deep media relationships, social media savvy and client partnering. 512 Three Mile Harbor Rd., East Hampton, 631.329.0050, wordhampton.com

CATERERS AND CHEFS

Art of EatingThis community-focused and charity-driven caterer and events planner has extensive connections with local farm-ers, fishers and food makers, and will help you invite guests with the confi-dence that they will thoroughly enjoy the food, setting and entire event experience. 631.267.2411, hamptonsartofeating.com

Need a ChefYour private chef for a day. Local afford-able, established private chef. Peter Cooke a 1991 CIA grad a lifelong resi-dent of the East End, farm-to-table chef. Free menu planning.Shop, cook, clean. 631.578.0798, needachef.com

REAL ESTATE

CorcoranFor over 30 years, exemplifying a stead-fast commitment to service, creativity and hard work. NYC’s largest residential real estate firm, Corcoran has offices through-out the East End to help you find your home. Live who you are. 290 Main St., Sag Harbor, 725.4926, corcoran.com

Town And Country Real EstateOffering personalized service and bou-tique f lexibility, Nicholas J. Planamento & Town And Country Rea l Estate focuses on establishing relationships through honesty and quality service to buyers and sellers. As a member of “Who’s Who in Luxury Real Estate,” Nicholas J. Planamento & Town And Country Real Estate enjoys a referral network with the finest brokers glob-ally. 631.298.0600 or 631.948.0143, [email protected]

LANDSCAPE DESIGN ANDENVIRONMENTAL SERVICES

Barry Block Landscape Design & Contracting Inc.Award-winning, formally trained design/build firm providing landscape services from design concept to complete instal-lation. All projects receive personal atten-tion and unique designs to fit your life-style, while offering a variety of special-ized solutions using ecologically sound and organic techniques. 631.874.3430, barryblock.com, [email protected]

Fort Pond Native PlantsA local garden center with a mission to pro-mote the use and appreciation of native plants for home landscapes. Employing organic maintenance products as well as sound envi-ronmental approaches. 26 S. Embassy St., Montauk, 631.668.6452, nativeplants.net

Muse Design Inc.Offering residential and corporate cli-ents inspired environmental planning. “Weaving highly functional land use into natural spaces full of emotion and won-der.” Whether a rain garden or a natural-ly filtered pool design, native plantings or natural resource management planning, Muse Design blends the natural and the manmade into a beautiful celebration of nature. 631.725.8725, thomasmuse.com

Playful GardensWe design and build natural play-spaces for children and provide instruction in the garden. Playful Gardens specializes in vegetables, flowers and herbs and custom-raised planters. myplayfulgarden.com

TRANSPORTATIONAND TOURS

Hampton JitneyOperating 365 days a year between the South and North Forks and Metro NY, including new service to Brooklyn, Hampton Jitney is your fastest way to and from the City and NY airports. Offering limousines, charters and tours throughout the Northeast and Canada. 283.4600, hamptonjitney.com

HEALTH, BEAUTYAND WELLNESS

The Body ShopThe first yoga and massage studio on the East End is located above Eileen Fisher in the heart of East Hampton Village. The Body Shop, “the most beautiful yoga space in the Hamptons,” offers classes in yoga, Pilates, cardio and dance, as well as private yoga and massage therapy. 26 Newtown Ln., East Hampton; 631.324.6440; the-bodyshopeasthampton.com

Gil Ferrer SalonGil Ferrer hair care services include cut-ting, color, Japanese hair straightening, thermal-curl, hair treatments, ref lexol-ogy and nail and skin care. Salon is directed by renowned Brazilian stylist Vincent Da Silva. In the City, visit their f lower-filled oasis on Madison Avenue. Bridgehampton Commons, Montauk Hwy., Bridgehampton, 537.5805, vin-centferrer.com, and 21 E. 74 St., NYC, 212.535.3543, gilferrersalon.com

Naturopathica Holistic Health Spa Pure Beauty LoungeMuch more than a product line, a destina-tion point for embracing the pure essentials of well-being. Skin care, body treatments,

massage and health through natural thera-pies. Red Horse Plaza, 74 Montauk Hwy., East Hampton, 329.2525, naturopathica.com/ourspa.html

Southampton OsteopathyDr. Stephen Braun DO, specializing in Osteopathy, and associates are welcoming new patients. They offer compassionate, integrative, personal, empowering medi-cine, specializing in restoration of your body’s healthy structure and optimal function after trauma, injury, or pain. 349 Meeting House Ln., Southampton, shosteo.com

Yoga ShantiA full-time, year-round, East End yoga stu-dio, Yoga Shanti offers classes to all levels in a range of styles. A recent review called Shanti “the Hamptons yoga studio. You will never waste your time...The teachers are always amazing.” 23 Washington St., Sag Harbor, 725.6424, yogashanti.com

CONSTRUCTION,RESTORATION, DESIGN

Berg Design ArchitectsA multi-faceted firm dedicated to sus-tainable modern residences, commercial architecture, interior design, and furniture. Client collaboration, green technology and environmentally low impact designs lead to unique architectural solutions with warm, comfortable surroundings. 917.328.3905, 88 Old Stone Hwy., East Hampton, berg-designarchitects.com.

Environment EastConsistent attention to detail has earned the trust of our customers and for over thirty years they have recommended us to their friends and neighbors as one of the finest construction companies on the east end. Their friendly and professional staff will be glad to take a look at your house and advise you on maintenance, expansion or complete restoration. They offer a full spec-trum of services from design to permits, roofs to decks and everything in between. 631.734.7474/7400, environmenteast.com

East End AwningOwners Carol and Bill Duffy have been serving the Hamptons and the entire East End of Long Island for over 12 years. Available seven days a week for an in-home estimate. They’ll bring the showroom to you. 631.287.6080; eastendawning.com.

EDUCATION ANDCOMMUNITY

Hayground SchoolAn open community school where unproductive conventions are replaced by new ways of teaching and learning. With the apprenticeship program for older youth, rich and varied programs in “Jeff ’s Kitchen,” visiting artists and inspiring math, reading, music, art and science, Hayground remains true to its mission. 537.7068, hayground.org

Ross SchoolDevelop new skills or follow a passion at Ross School, offering a wide selection of year-round classes, workshops and camps for kids, teens and adults, including classes in art, athletics, farm care, gymnastics, music, performance, tennis, humanities, media, wellness, nutrition, and languages, as well as courses in college preparation and ESL. 18 Goodfriend Drive, East Hampton, 631.907.5555 or ross.org/community


Slow Food East End ChapterThe mission of the East End Chapter of Slow Food is to spread the word about the advantages (health, economic, environ-mental, taste!) of eating locally and sea-sonally, and connect those interested with the national and international Slow Food Movement. Slow Food is about good, clean and fair food. Currently our local chapter has over 1,000 on our email newsletter list. Local Leaders: Miche Bacher, Noah Bacher, Leslie Rose Close, Judiann C Fayyaz, Bryan Futerman, Tullia Limarzi, Ursula Massoud, Mary Morgan, Kate Plumb, Alexandra Sofis. Follow us on facebook: Slow Food East End.

Suffolk County Community College Culinary School & Bakers WorkshopWith campuses in Brentwood, Selden, Sayville and Riverhead, Suffolk County Community College is NY’s largest com-munity college. SCCC is renowned for its nationally recognized faculty, small classes and affordable tuition. Students may choose from more than 60 programs of study, including the new world-class culinary program and Bakers Workshop in Riverhead. 20 E. Main St., Riverhead, 548.3750, sunysuffolk.edu

Twin Peeks GeeksFast, friendly, experienced, dependable, affordable, on-site Macintosh service at your home or business in the Hamptons and Manhattan. Specializing in hookups, trouble-shooting; software installation, upgrades and instruction; Internet installation, Photoshop instruction and scanning instruction. 631.723.3660, twinpeeksgeeks.com

ENVIRONMENTAL ANDFARM ORGANIZATIONS

Long Island Farm Bureau

Providing local, grassroots regional lead-ership for the L.I. agricultural commu-nity to preserve our remaining open land, beautiful vistas and the 300-year legacy of rural Long Island. 104 Edwards Ave.,

Calverton, 727.3777, lifb.com

Long Island Wine CouncilFounded in 1989, this industry association is dedicated to achieving recognition for Long Island as a premium wine-producing region. Visit its Web site to plan your visit to Long Island wine country. PO Box 74,

Peconic, 631.477.8493, liwines.com

Peconic Land Trust

The Hamptons, the East End, Peconic, North Fork, South Fork, Eastern Suffolk...however you identify the special place that is Eastern Long Island, you’ll want to know more about Peconic Land Trust’s work with landowners to protect our sce-nic vistas, water quality and productive farmland. PO Box 1776, Southampton,

283.3195, peconiclandtrust.org

Slow Food East End ConviviumFounded in 2003, this local chapter of the international movement to defend regional food traditions boasts 600 enthusiasts who have launched two school programs. Sponsors of the Sag

Harbor and East Hampton Farmers

Markets. slowfoodlongisland.org

FOOD BLOGSLet There Be BiteLife is too short for bad food, and LTBB finds the best of it: cold-pressed California olive oil, slow-dried Italian pasta, artisanal chocolate toffee. Some chili pepper in our blog, too! [email protected]; LetThereBeBite.com

ART SUPPLIES

Golden EagleThis East Hampton shop for those who “live local and paint local” offers a wine range of art materials, as well as year-round art classes including oil painting, mixed media, sculpture, encaustic and kids’ classes. 14 Gingerbread Ln., East Hampton, 631.324.0603

CLOTHING, JEWELRYAND GIFTS

A. J. Dak Etc.An array of objects old and new, artwork, accessories, f lowers (dried and faux, pot-ted and tropical), jewelry, soaps and can-dles. Gifts and things in general to whet your fancy. Fri.–Mon. 11–5 and by appt. 1240 Village Ln., Orient; 631.323.0048

Eileen FisherClothing that invites every woman to express her own style. 800.445.1603, eileenfisher.com

The Elegant SettingThe Elegant Setting is inspired by nostalgia for a time when entertaining was an art. The Main Street shop in Southampton offers an exquisite col-lection of tabletop as well as home and

gift items, specializing in custom mono-gramming. 31 Main St., Southampton, 631.283.4747, theelegantsetting.com

LifestyleContemporary Fashion Apparel and Accessories for Women + Men. The best edit on what’s new in fashion, luxury basics, denim and accesso-ries. Let our amazing staff navigate and style your wardrobe. Open 7 days year-round! 127 Main Street, Sag Harbor; 631.725.1667; shopatlifestyle.com

COMPUTER & TECH SUPPORT

GEEKHAMPTONFast, friendly, experienced, dependable, affordable on-site Macintosh service at your home or business on the East End, or our store. Specializing in hookups, trouble-shooting; software installation, upgrades and instruction for your computer, iPhone or iPod. 154 W. Montauk Hwy., Hampton Bays, 631.723.3660, geekhampton.com

LEGAL SERVICESJason Foscolo LLCThe only law firm on Long Island dedi-cated to agricultural and food law, which regulates how food is grown, processed, marketed and sold, we can help you to maximize profits and navigate food law complexities, form cooperatives, find the right crop insurance, understand and uti-lize USDA cost-share programs, make the most of value-added processing equipment, apply for federal conservation benefits and much more. New and beginning farmers welcome. 479.799.7035; jasonfoscolo.com


edible east end:

NOW IN 3-D.Well, sort of.

New shows air every Friday and Sunday. Tune in on NY1 and NY1.com.

Each week, our editors explore the behind-the-scene food and drink

From Manhattan to

mix drinks at Lower East Side speakeasies, rake clams in Southampton,

sip suds at Brooklyn beer


Th e East End is in fact edible, with its countless producers of fresh-grown fruits and vegetables and an abundance of agriculture at its residents’ fi ngertips. Th e main roads of our towns are not lined with fast-food joints, but rather farm stands and pick-your-own pur-veyors. We are very fortunate. But, not more than a hundred or so miles from Long Island’s East End lie areas that have literally been deemed “food deserts”: low-income parts of New York City and its surrounding boroughs, where residents have little if any source of such nourishing ingredients to feed themselves and their families.

It was partly the alarming rate of obesity within these neighbor-hoods that prompted New York City Mayor Michael Bloomberg to work with the City Council to launch the NYC Green Cart Ini-tiative in 2008, supported by a $1.5 million grant from the Laurie M. Tisch Illumination Fund. While Manhattanites will be familiar with the umbrella-topped displays of apples, bananas, potatoes and other produce on street corners much of the year, the initiative set out to double and triple the number of these mobile carts and push them into specifi c low-income locations in outer boroughs of the city where fresh produce options are scarce. Th is program is also the subject matter of Th e Apple Pushers, a documentary fi lm by Mary Muzzio, narrated by Edward Norton, that made its world premiere at this year’s Hamptons International Film Festival.

And while the actual apple pushers themselves—about 800 ven-dors across the fi ve boroughs who are primarily fi rst-generation im-migrants, much like the Jewish, Italian and other ethnic produce ped-dlers of previous New York eras—worked on a Sunday afternoon in October, 100 miles or so away a crowd of about 150 gathered in East Hampton’s United Artists Th eater to watch their story unfold. “Th e goal of this fi lm is twofold” explains Muzzio, “First, to inspire munici-palities to think creatively about diff erent ways to address the problems of obesity and food deserts. Th e other goal, which became apparent to me while making the fi lm, is to inspire other philanthropists to con-sider public-private partnerships within their own cities, like Laurie [Tisch] did through her support of the Green Cart Initiative.”

Muzzio is proud to report, “In New York the Green Cart Ini-tiative is one of several strategies underway in the fi ght against obesity and food deserts. However, the concept of mobile vending is catching on, and several cities are working on developing their own ‘Green Cart’ initiatives.”

For more information on Th e Apple Pushers visit theapplepushers.com.

Courtney MacGinley has a passion for good food and great fi lms. She writes from her home in Coram.

AFTERTASTE

THE APPLE PUSHERSBY COURTNEY MACGINLEY

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