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Page 1: SHOP London Lux SS16

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Page 42

FRAGRANT DELIGHTS:

discover the top London bespoke

perfumers who will create an

individual scent just for you

LONDON | ЛОНДОН | 伦敦 | لندن

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The watch

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Emma Cheevers

EDITOR’S LETTER

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@GlobalBlue

@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

/GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu

/globalblue

/globalblue

@shopcontent

Austria

Austrian Alps

Barcelona

Belgium

Berlin

Cologne

Copenhagen

捷克共和国

Düsseldorf

Frankfurt

French Riviera

دليل ألانيا

德国指南

Германия

Gothenburg

Hamburg

Hanover

Helsinki Area

Holland

Istanbul

Italy

Japan

Lake Saimaa

Lebanon

London

Madrid

Milan

Munich

Nuremburg

Oslo

Paris

巴黎

Portugal

Prague

Riga

Rome

Seoul

Singapore

Stockholm

Stuttgart

Switzerland

Vienna

Vilnius

Welcome to London

Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you

discover the very best of this sophisticated European fashion and

design hub. London has much to ofer, as our guide on page 68 reveals.

Readers who love fragrance will enjoy our feature on London’s bespoke

perfumers (page 42), and in this issue we also meet jewellery designer

Jessica McCormack (page 48) and discover some of the striking new

fagships in Mayfair’s prestigious Mount Street area (page 54).

SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader

that helps you save up to 14% when shopping in the UK. We publish

guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international

insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top

global brands you’ll fnd in London. For the very latest information, visit

globalblue.com.

Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card – the

simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand,

and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too:

visit globalblue.com/join.

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chloe.com

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CONTRIBUTORS

10

Harriet Quick

Fashion journalist Harriet

Quick has held senior roles

at the Guardian newspaper

and British Vogue, where she

was the title’s fashion features

director for over a decade. She

has interviewed many of the

world’s biggest fashion stars.

Frances Wasem

Frances Wasem is a

contributing editor at Harper’s

Bazaar magazine, and has also

written for Stella magazine

and the Times. She has

interviewed fashion icons

from Christian Louboutin to

corset-maker Mr Pearl.

Beth Druce

Fashion and luxury writer

Beth Druce also works as a

consultant for a variety of

luxury fashion companies.

After gaining an MA from

Central Saint Martins in

London, she began her

career at GQ magazine.

Pietari Posti

Pietari Posti’s elegant, delicate

style made him the perfect

illustrator for the cover of

this season’s London Luxury

edition of SHOP. Inspired

by our feature on bespoke

perfumes on page 42, it

shows a woman who has been

transformed into a beautiful

perfume bottle. His exquisite

artwork has previously been

commissioned by American

Express, Random House,

the New York Times, the

Guardian newspaper and

British Airways, among

others, and he is also a long-

time contributor to SHOP.

Explore our archive of cover

illustrations at

globalblue.com/covers.

globalblue.com

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MELVYN KIRTLEYTIFFANY & CO. CHIEF GEMOLOGISTFOR 31 YEARS

©T

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I WILL REJECT 99.96% OF THE WORLD’S FINEST DIAMONDS BECAUSE THERE’S

A DIFFERENCE BETWEEN QUALITY AND TIFFANY-QUALITY.

THE TIFFANY® SETTING. 130 YEARS OF EXTRAORDINARY.

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12

SHOP FLOOR

E DI TOR I A L

Editor-in-chief

Emma Cheevers

PU BL I SH I NG

Publisher

James Morris

Head of digital

Eamonn Leacy

Digital campaign manager

Iwona Wlodarczyk

Digital data analyst

Dian Liu

Digital marketing assistant

Anastasia Budieva

Product manager

Devesh Sankadecha

Developer

Mohammed Hakki

Digital production manager

Andrew Lugton

Production assistants

Olivia Chou, Sammy Ha

Chief executive officer

Jacques Stern

SHOP is published by Global Blue

Group headquarters

Global Blue SA,Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland

Corporate registration number

[email protected]

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2016 Global Blue

Deputy editor

Sally McIlhone

Cover illustrator

Pietari Posti

Contributors

Beth Druce, Harriet Quick, Frances Wasem

Production editor

Caterina Mazzolai

Assistant production editor

Katie Muxworthy

Features editor

Hannah Lewis

City guide and lifestyle editor

Isabella Redmond Styles

Fashion editor

Ximena Daneri

Fashion coordinator

Fani Mari

Fashion intern

Danielle De Wolfe

News editor

Rebecca Davies

Assistant news editor

Theresa Harold

Chief sub-editor

Hester Lacey

Copy editors

Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien

Picture editor

Kirsty Andrews

Assistant picture editors

Grace Bird, Katie Byrne

Senior picture assistant

Mónica R Goya

Picture assistant

Charlotte Rogers

Artwork editor

Simon Thompson

Artworking assistants

Aaron Carline, Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala

Artworking intern

Onur Unaltay

Online managing editor

Kirsty Welsh

Assistant online editor

Marina Nelson

Online writer

Emily Scrivener

Chinese editor

Yuan Fang

Associate Chinese editor

Junjie Dou

Chinese contributing editor

Qingya He

Chinese editorial assistants

Yangzi Liang, Manqing Li

Chinese translators

Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi

Russian editor

Anastasia Nemchenok

Russian editorial assistant

Karina Starobina

Russian translators

Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov

Arabic editor

Haneen Malaeb

Print

Dane Consultancy

Commercial editor

Ruairidh Pritchard

Commercial artworking assistant

Samantha Junak

AVP business development manager

Patrice Janet

Art director

Fabio Gervasoni

Junior designer

Kiranjeet Kaur

GL OBA L BLU E U K

Vice president sales Northern Europe

Richard Brown

UK managing director

Gordon Clark

UK sales manager

Peter Blake

UK key accounts sales manager

Darren Waite

UK marketing sales manager

Kimberly Urbaniak

Marketing account manager

Patrick Prior

International key account managers

Barbara Badelt, Richard Harvey

Key account managers

Onkar Badesha, Sarah Farag, Ramesh Juneja, Jerry Junkere, Mike Shrimpton, Sunni Sokhi, Victoria Taylor

Account managers

Saish Balakashnan, Enda Griffin, Holly Kippin, Marisa Sanchez, Dezelle Villanueva

Global Blue UK, 11th floor, GW2, Great West House, Great West Road, Brentford TW8 9HU, UK+44 (0)20 8232 1900

Regional tourist office

Visit BritainLondon and Partners

Advertising enquiries

Contact Patrick Prior: [email protected]

Page 13: SHOP London Lux SS16

johnbellcroyden.co.uk

HEALTHCARE . PHARMACY . SKINCARE

Looking after London’s Health & Wellbeing

SKIN HEALTH Expertly crafted

TOTAL

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Above: Jessica McCormack flagship store

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Products

18 Check Out

SHOP selects a standout piece from

London this season

20 Products

Key looks for the season, from fashion and

footwear to jewellery and accessories

26 Street Style

Our pick of the best dressed during

London Fashion Week

News

30 Shop Window

One store not to be missed in London

32 News

Seasonal updates on shops, services and

new products

40 In Store …

… with John and Anne-Marie

Harrison, designers of heritage

British brand Purdey’s fashion line,

in the company’s historical South

Audley Street headquarters

CONTENTS

p.48

Features

42 Cover story: Scent Especially

For You

London’s top perfumers offer

bespoke services to their most

discerning clients. Frances Wasem

reveals the names to know

48 Diamonds Are Forever

Jessica McCormack’s

unconventionally informal approach

to high jewellery makes her

diamond-based designs accessible,

emotive and highly covetable, says

Beth Druce

54 Mayfair Marvels

A wave of new flagships in the

Mount Street area showcases the

work of some highly desirable

designers. Harriet Quick takes a tour

of this must-visit luxury destination

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+44 (0)20 7730 1234

WHAT’S THE BUZZ?THE FINE JEWELLERY ROOM

harrods.com

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ENGLISH | Р УС СКИЙ | 中文

VISIT US ONLINE...

The latest in luxury shopping

and travel is updated every

day at

Последние новости о роскошном шоппинге и путешествиях ищите на сайте globalblue.ru

globalblue.cn 每日更新最佳奢

侈品购物和旅游资讯

FOLLOW US AT...

/GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu

@GlobalBlue

@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

/globalblue

/globalblue

@shopcontent

CONTENTS

16

Experience

60 Raising The Bar

London’s top cocktails are often found in drinking dens tucked away in basements or on back streets, writes Theresa Harold

64 Stay In Style

SHOP’s guide to the world’s most exclusive hotels

Guide

68 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of London

82 My City

Artist Lucy Dickens, great-great- granddaughter of Charles Dickens, shares her London recommendations

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Essentials

86 How To Shop Tax Free

The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

Translations

87 Русский Перевод92 美文翻译

97

Souvenir

98 The essential item to bring home

Above: the Oriole cocktail bar

p.60

globalblue.com

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Embracing eccentricity since 1885

TURNBULLANDASSER.COM

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CHECK OUT

18 | PRODUC TS

2016 collection, Apophenia, recreates classic British styles and prints, and also continues Hindmarch’s popular Sticker Shop. Last season the brand introduced womenswear to its collection and for spring/summer 2016 neoprene and leather sweatshirts in graphic and geometric prints and popping colours are instant hits. fmAnya Hindmarch Maxi Featherweight

Ebury bag, £1,395, Anya Hindmarch, 118 New Bond Street, London W1S 1EW, +44 (0)20 7493 1628, anyahindmarch.com

FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 73

RAISING A SMILE

A big shopper-style bag is an essential accessory, and this example from Anya Hindmarch is not only practical but also interesting and playful, with colourful stripes and an embossed perforated smiley face. The sturdy leather construction keeps all your belongings safe, as well as being stylish. Anya Hindmarch reinvents everyday styles with playful twists in textures and designs. The sporty 80s look of the current spring/summer

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 86

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SUMMER NIGHTS

Discover the perfect outfit for those long, warm evenings in the city

20 | PRODUC TS

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1. De Grisogono earrings, £74,500, De Grisogono, 14A New Bond Street, London W1S 3SX, +44 (0)20 7499 2225, degrisogono.com

2. 7 For All Mankind jeans, £225, 7 For All Mankind, 225 Regent Street, London W1B 2ED, +44 (0)20 7495 3244, 7forallmankind.com

3. Coach bag, £375, Coach, 41-42 New Bond Street, London W1S 2RY, +44 (0)20 3141 8901, coach.com

4. Bally sandals, £575, Bally, 45-46 New Bond Street, London W1S 1EN, +44 (0)20 7499 0057, bally.com

5. Jigsaw top, £89, Jigsaw, St Christopher’s Place, London W1U 1LT, +44 (0)20 7493 9169, jigsaw-online.com

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KING OF COOL

Rewrite the rules by teaming dark prints with sleek summer accessories

22 | PRODUC TS

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1. Etro shirt, £430, Etro, 43 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4QT, +44 (0)20 7493 9004, etro.com

2. Acqua di Parma Colonia Essenza

travel spray, 30ml, £88, and travel

spray case, £74, Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, London W1A 1AB, 0800 123400 (UK), +44 (0)113 369 8040 (international), acquadiparma.com

3. Church’s cardholder, £66, Church’s, 133 New Bond Street, London W1S 2TE, +44 (0)20 7493 1474, church-footwear.com

4. Versace sandals, £600, Versace, 183-184 Sloane Street, London SW1X 9QP, +44 (0)20 7259 5700, versace.com

5. Tod’s sunglasses, £260, Tod’s, 2-5 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4PD, +44 (0)20 7493 2237, tods.com

6. Dior Homme Chiffre Rouge A03

watch, £2,750, Watches of Switzerland, 155 Regent Street, London W1B 4AD, +44 (0)20 7534 9810, dior.com

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globalblue.com

RAY OF SUNSHINE

Embrace the season with warm, vibrant tones and decorative detailing

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1. Zenith Elite Ultra Thin Lady

Moonphase watch, £16,100, The Watch Gallery, 129 Fulham Road, London SW3 6RT, +44 (0)20 7952 2730, zenith-watches.com

2. Van Cleef & Arpels earrings,

£1,800, Van Cleef & Arpels, 9 New Bond Street, London W1S 3SW, +44 (0)20 7493 0400, vancleef-arpels.com

3. Salvatore Ferragamo shoes,

£950, Salvatore Ferragamo, 24 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4AL, +44 (0)20 7629 5007, ferragamo.com

4. Jo Malone Orange Blossom

cologne, 100ml, £85, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7730 1234, jomalone.com

5. M Missoni dress, £418, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7730 1234, m-missoni.com

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BOLD AND BRAVE

Accessorise daringly by combining striking prints, colours and textures

24 | PRODUC TS

1. Burberry scarf, £295, Burberry, 121 Regent Street, London W1B 4TB, +44 (0)20 7806 8904, burberry.com

2. Nicholas Kirkwood shoes, £695, Nicholas Kirkwood, 5 Mount Street, London W1K 3NE, +44 (0)20 7290 1404, nicholaskirkwood.com

3. Chloé Jane mini bracelet bag,

£665, Chloé, 152-153 Sloane Street, London SW1X 9BX, +44 (0)20 7823 5348, chloe.com

4. Marco de Vincenzo sunglasses,

price on request, Liberty, Regent Street, London W1B 5AH, +44 (0)20 7734 1234, marcodevincenzo.com

5. Paul Smith shift dress, £250, Paul Smith, 40-44 Floral Street, London WC2E 9TB, +44 (0)20 7379 7133, paulsmith.co.uk

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STREET

STYLE

Contemporary classics and statement accessories from covetable brands such as Chloé, Fendi and Hermès proved popular at London Fashion Week

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 86

26 | ST R E E T ST Y L E

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28 | ST R E E T ST Y L E

STREET

STYLE

London’s fashionable inhabitants use green as a striking accent colour, incorporating Les Petits Joueurs, Peter Pilotto and Chanel into their efortlessly chic daytime looks

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SHOP WINDOW

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STEPPING OUT

Manolo Blahnik, one of the world’s leading luxury footwear brands, has built a reputation for beautiful shoes. The new Manolo Blahnik store in Burlington Arcade, which opened in February 2016, covers 1,000 square feet and carries both men’s and women’s shoes as well as the designer’s inaugural bag collection. This opening comes 44 years after Blahnik opened

his first standalone store on Old Church Street in Chelsea. The interior design in the new Piccadilly boutique shows Blahnik’s eclectic tastes; colourful ottomans and bright silk lamps adorn the space. A private room on the top floor allows clients to browse in peace and place special orders for customisation. thManolo Blahnik, Burlington Arcade, 51 Piccadilly, London W1J 0QJ, manoloblahnik.com

FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 74

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TREASURE TROVE

You will find the newly renovated Chanel watch and fine jewellery boutique in the heart of the luxurious Mayfair district. The interiors of the store’s three floors are every bit as lavish as the Chanel products on offer. This unique boutique was influenced by Gabrielle Chanel’s own Parisian townhouse, and elegantly combines intimacy, refinement and audacity. Chanel herself would no doubt have approved of the red marble fireplace, Venetian gilt wood mirrors and opulent chandeliers that adorn the space, while extensive glass cabinets house the finest, most exclusive Chanel jewellery available. The range includes the new Boy Friend watch, a vintage-inspired update of a classic Chanel design with an understated rectangular face. kmChanel, 173 New Bond Street, London W1S 4RF, +44 (0)20 7499 0005, chanel.com

FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 73

ALL SEWN UP

Turnbull & Asser opened a new store on Mayfair’s Davies Street late last year. Designed by acclaimed interior architect Shed, the store offers the historical brand’s ready-to-wear collection and bespoke service. The men’s shirtmaker was the first establishment granted a royal warrant by Prince Charles, heir to the British throne. Each garment is handcrafted by skilled artisans, and everything down to the last stitch is carefully considered. Every shirt is made from 33 individual pieces of fine cloth and has 13 iridescent mother-of-pearl buttons. Throughout the manufacturing process rigorous checks are made at all stages to ensure the quality is the highest possible. rdTurnbull & Asser, 4 Davies Street, London W1K 3DL, +44 (0)20 7499 0085, turnbullandasser.co.ukP

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BELSTAFF REVS UP

2015 was a big year for British brand Belstaff, as it launched two new UK stores – the most recent opening is the branch at the Westfield London shopping centre. The store, which covers over 1,000 square feet, is located in the luxurious Village retail space, and caters for men, women and children with a mix of heritage pieces, footwear and accessories. There is also a central workstation where clients can have their Belstaff garments re-waxed. The company, founded in Longton near Stoke-on-Trent in the West Midlands of England, has been producing practical, waterproof garments for men and women since 1924. A rich heritage encompassing the worlds of exploration, aviation and motorsport makes Belstaff an iconic British brand. thBelstaff, Westfield London, Ariel Way, London W12 7SL, +44 (0)20 8762 0808, belstaff.co.uk

TOWN AND COUNTRY

The William & Son store offers two floors of beautiful essentials for both town and country. This British emporium, which holds a royal warrant, stocks products such as jewellery, luggage, technology, accessories and tailoring. Some of the brands currently available include Johnstons of Elgin, maker of exquisite cashmere robes, Drake’s, east London-based manufacturer of scarves and pocket squares, and the William & Son watchmaker. rdWilliam & Son, 34-36 Bruton Street, London W1J 6QX, +44 (0)20 7493 8385, williamandson.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 72

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NEW PAL Italian fashion brand Pal

Zileri has reopened its London store with a fresh, new vision. Creative director Mauro Ravizza Krieger describes its philosophy as ‘avant craft’ – the combination of an inspiring and creative outlook with fine craftsmanship and tailoring. This season’s collection is inspired by 20th-century kinetic and optical art, with exuberant use of patterns and hues in a spring colour palette of petrol blue, stone, rust and burgundy. A suit in wool, silk and linen is combined with an optical-print shirt, and the brand’s best-selling double-face parka is constructed with lightweight fabrics and attention to detail. kmPal Zileri, 125 New Bond Street, London W1S 1DY, +44 (0)20 7493 9711, palzileri.com

FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 73

BORN IN THE USA Detroit-based Shinola opened its new Soho

store in December 2015 – the only branch outside the US. The 750-square-foot store hosts events, talks and demonstrations, as well as showcasing Shinola’s latest ranges; the brand’s watches, bicycles, leather goods, journals and pet accessories are all handcrafted in the US. The company, founded in 2011, is a relative newcomer, but has already captured the public’s imagination with its storied name (a reference to the Shinola shoe polish brand) and all-American heritage. thShinola, 28 Foubert’s Place, London W1F 7PR, +44 (0)20 7734 5402, shinola.co.uk

IN BRIEF

In 2015, Swiss

luxury

watchmaker

Jaeger-

LeCoultre

launched a new

flagship store on

London’s Old

Bond Street.

The

2,500-square-

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houses a VIP

room where

clients can

browse the

brand’s

collections in

private

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CHALAYAN COMES HOME

Innovative fashion label Chalayan has opened a boutique in London’s luxurious Mayfair neighbourhood. Creative director Hussein Chalayan chose Bourdon Street for its proximity to London’s luxury quarter; as well as offering Chalayan’s men’s and women’s ready-to-wear collections, the boutique will also host cultural events and parties. Renowned for his avant-garde creations, which fuse fashion, design and technology, Hussein Chalayan is one of the world’s leading designers. Born in Nicosia, the capital city of Cyprus, but brought up in London, he wanted to be involved in every aspect of his first flagship in his home city, and worked closely with architect Zoe Smith on the store design. Minimal and monochromatic, the space is designed as a backdrop to the collections, complementing and enhancing the Chalayan designs without drawing attention away from them. hlChalayan, 2 Bourdon Street, London W1K 3PA, +44 (0)20 7493 8157, chalayan.com

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BEAUTY QUEEN

When Charlotte Tilbury, known for her signature smokey look for eyes and her luxuriously packaged products, opened her first standalone store in November 2015, beauty aficionados were thrilled. The Covent Garden boutique showcases her products across two floors. With seven art deco-style vanity tables, vintage trinkets and bejewelled counters and screens, the store epitomises old-school glamour. Make-up lessons are also available. thCharlotte Tilbury, 11-12 James Street, London WC2E 8BT, +44 (0)20 3846 9469, charlottetilbury.com

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QUALITY TIME

Luxury Swiss watchmaker Hublot has partnered British department store Harrods to create the Classic Fusion Blue 45mm Special Edition Harrods timepiece (from £6,900). The watch, which boasts cutting-edge technology alongside classic design elements, is made from titanium and blue composite resin, and is available with either a rubber or a rubber-lined alligator leather strap. The Classic Fusion, one of Hublot’s mainstays, has been reinterpreted a number of times. Its daring combination of precious and industrial materials made it a revolutionary design. This special-edition watch is destined to become a collectors item. thHarrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7730 1234, hublot.com

FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 77

DISCOVER BELL & ROSS

The first UK Bell & Ross boutique has opened in the prestigious Burlington Arcade. Fans of the luxury watch brand should be sure to pay a visit, as the in-store experience is excellent, allowing visitors to discover not only Bell & Ross’s impressive range of timepieces, but also the history and the spirit of the company. The brand specialises in watches inspired by aviation, and aeronautical influences can be seen throughout the store, including industrial lighting, military shades of green and framed photos of the company’s history. Functional furniture subtly references the structure of vintage planes. Expert staff members are available to talk you through the latest pieces, as well as the classics. Get in touch to find out about the Boutique Experience, a bespoke tour which guides clients through the best of Bell & Ross, welcoming them into the private lounge for a glass of Champagne while they explore the brand. hlBell & Ross, 48-49 Burlington Arcade, London W1J 0QJ, +44 (0)20 7629 6464, bellross.com

FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 74

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BEST FOOT FORWARD

The Mayfair Aquazzura flagship, which opened in October 2015, is the brand’s first boutique in London. In keeping with the company’s classic yet colourful aesthetic, Portuguese interior designers Cláudia and Catarina Soares Pereira have created an eye-catching space within an elegant Georgian building. The bold cobalt blue sofas and original marble fireplace enhance the cosy atmosphere, while the pineapple-shaped door handles reference the Aquazzura logo. Since it was founded in 2011 by Colombian designer Edgardo Osorio, the Florence-based luxury footwear brand has become a firm favourite with models and celebrities. Visitors to the London store will be able to explore exclusive styles as well as the core collection, the bridal range and bespoke services. thAquazzura, 38 Albemarle Street, London W1S 4JG, +44 (0)20 3828 0433, aquazzura.com

SENSATIONAL SAAB

Lebanese fashion designer Elie Saab opened his first London flagship in spring 2016. The four-storey boutique in Mayfair stocks ready-to-wear, accessories and fragrance, and also houses the brand’s third haute couture salon – the other two are in Paris and Beirut. The design of the 8,600-square-foot store, devised in collaboration with architectural design agency RDAI, a regular partner of the brand, reflects the label’s femininity and modernity. Elsewhere in London, the Elie Saab retail space in Harrods has been relocated to the Superbrands area of the department store. With boutiques in Paris, Beirut, Dubai, Hong Kong and now London, and further openings planned for 2016, Elie Saab’s global presence continues to expand. thElie Saab, 24 Bruton Street, London W1J 6QQ, eliesaab.comP

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PERFECT SCENTS

A decade and a half after opening his first Paris boutique, Frédéric Malle, the perfumer known for his Editions de Parfums, has opened a store in the West End’s Burlington Arcade. The understated space is perfectly in tune with the historic Regency shopping promenade. The interior features a low bookcase, personally chosen by Malle, reminiscent of those found in grand English houses. To inject an element of modernity, Malle commissioned contemporary designer Martin Szekely to make a special version of his StoneStone table. This, teamed with sumptuous green curtains and chocolate and yellow carpets, makes a must-see shopping destination. The perfumer introduced Editions de Parfums in 2000, calling on the world’s most celebrated ‘noses’ to create exclusive fragrances to be sold under their own names. The concept has proved enduringly popular and Frédéric Malle perfumes are sought after by discerning clients across the world. rdFrédéric Malle, 14 Burlington Arcade, London W1J 0PH, +44 (0)20 7409 2364, fredericmalle.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 74

EASY AS 1-2-3

French clothing brand APC, known for its urban-chic apparel, has opened its third London store, this time in Notting Hill. As with the first two stores, the interior was designed by long-time APC favourite Laurent Deroo Architecte, and makes clever use of light oak and brass, along with glazed ceramic bricks inspired by the tiles that decorate the façade of many Victorian pubs. The store carries APC’s full menswear and womenswear collections along with its line of accessories, which includes shoes, quilts and candles. rdAPC, 34 Ledbury Road, London W11 2AB, +44 (0)20 7792 5123, apc.fr

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IN STORE: JAMES PURDEY & SONS

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‘There are not many opportunities to work for a luxury brand that is both historical and technical. That is what drew us to James Purdey & Sons. The amazing heritage that Purdey has in its gunmaking is a rich source of design inspiration. This season we have taken the beautiful gun engravings and interpreted them into silk scarf prints. For summer, we have used the wood of the gunstocks to make Purdey sunglasses with a walnut frame.

‘The colour we call Audley House red is used in subtle ways in our clothing – a discreet flash of red can signal to the knowledgeable shooter that they are looking at a Purdey design. We also have a house tweed for men and ladies that was derived from the tweeds painted in a portrait of James Purdey.

‘Meticulous attention to detail sets us apart. In everything that Purdey does, whether it be clothing and accessories or gunmaking, every aspect has been thought out to ensure the customer has a product of outstanding quality that will pass the test of time. Purdey’s strong heritage is also a large part of the brand, as Purdey is over 200 years old and has remained in London since the very beginning. Audley House in Mayfair has been Purdey’s home since 1882. In 1973, Purdey became the first London gunmaker to sell a range of high-quality shooting clothing. The whole company comprises about 75 people, with about 25 working at Audley House and the rest at our Hammersmith workshop.

‘The first shop James Purdey opened in 1814 was in Princes Street, off Leicester Square. As the business grew, the Duke of Westminster, who was redeveloping the Mayfair area, asked

if Purdey would like a specially designed space on the corner of South Audley Street and Mount Street for the famous brand. Purdey has remained there ever since.

‘The duke gave James Purdey the opportunity to design the space as he required. The Long Room was originally the Purdeys’ office. Purdey recently refurbished the clothing and accessories part of the shop and moved most of the gun room into the Long Room. There is more space in the shop now and dedicated menswear and ladieswear sections.

‘The biggest challenge for us is to keep moving forward technically; incorporating advancements in cloth such as Kevlar and waterproof tweeds improves comfort in the field while remaining true to the essence and appearance of the brand.

‘Spring/summer used to be a tough season for us, because it isn’t traditionally part of the British shooting calendar, but with the new spring range of safari cottons, lightweight linens and silk shirts we have a lot to offer our customers.’James Purdey & Sons, Audley House, 57-58 South Audley Street, London W1K 2ED, +44 (0)20 7499 1801, purdey.com

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 86

Founded in 1814, historical British brand James Purdey & Sons was originally a gunmaker. Today the brand’s luxurious range of clothing, footwear and accessories is aimed at sporting and outdoors enthusiasts and epitomises classic British style. Husband-and-wife team John and Anne-Marie Harrison design the Purdey fashion line. Ximena Daneri visited them in the South Audley Street store to discover the brand’s heritage and signature style

‘Purdey’s amazing heritage is a rich source of design inspiration’

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Above: John and Anne-Marie Harrison maintain the Purdey tradition of classic British style

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SCENT ESPECIALLY

FOR YOU

London’s top perfumers ofer bespoke services to their most discerning clients.

Frances Wasem reveals the names to know

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In 1957, couturier Hubert de Givenchy created a perfume for Audrey Hepburn. The delicate, foral and powdery scent of

L’Interdit (‘forbidden’) was exclusively mixed for Hepburn, and for years was made for her alone. It was only in the 1960s that the actress allowed the scent to become available to all.

L’Interdit shows how a bespoke scent can capture the unique spirit of its wearer. To own a fragrance that utterly represents us is surely the desire of every perfume purchaser. In a time of mass-market perfumes, big brands and overwhelming choice, this has seemed an ever more elusive dream – but not for much longer.

In London, a new breed of British perfumer is looking to the history books for inspiration; specifically to the 18th century, when perfumers used all-natural ingredients of the utmost quality. Back then, bespoke creations could take as long as a year to develop; today’s modern technology has streamlined the process, allowing perfumers to take the bespoke experience to the next level.

Last year, Lyn Harris opened a chic bespoke atelier, Perfumer H, in London’s fashionable Marylebone. Harris, the founder of Miller Harris, a luxury fragrance house favoured by Londoners in the know, is the only classically trained female ‘nose’ in the UK. In her new atelier she focuses on the individual, hoping to bring bespoke perfume values to a wider audience, and, she has said, to ‘pioneer naturals back into perfumery.’

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Previous page: perfume master Roja Dove at work

Above (clockwise from top): Lyn Harris, founder of Perfumer H;

two views of the brand’s Marylebone boutique

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Above: Roja Dove Haute Parfumerie; the brand’s Jasmine de Grasse candle

The Perfumer H range offers three levels of exclusivity. While Harris’s Seasonal Editions are off-the-shelf, they are still far from mass market. Her Laboratory Editions are collections of past and present formulas that clients can experience in the boutique’s laboratory and order instantly. Find one you love and for £1,500 the formula can become entirely yours, registered exclusively in your name. The fully bespoke service starts at £15,000.

Another British perfumer flying the flag for bespoke scents is Roja Dove. Dove, who worked for 20 years at Guerlain, believes that overmarketing of perfume was killing the industry. Big corporations ‘forced classical perfumery to its knees,’ he says. ‘It was about marketing.’ In 2001, Dove introduced his own bespoke service, which costs around £25,000 and includes body lotions and candles as well as the perfume itself. The formula of the final unique fragrance will ‘never be revealed,’ he says. At the Roja Dove Haute Parfumerie in Harrods, which opened in 2004, customers are guided through the perfumes already on P

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Above: perfumer Azzi Glasser; essential oils in the bespoke atelier in her home

A bespoke perfume, individual to the wearer, is the latest in genuine luxury

likes and dislikes and personal style to create a fragrance that ‘reflects the client’s DNA.’ Unusually, she also works visually as well. ‘I can see what the fragrance will smell like and look like, before I even start the creation process,’ she explains. Clients are enthusiastic about the results. ‘She has made me a scent I feel like I’ve always had – it is me, I just never had it in a bottle before,’ says Law.

It’s not just the perfumes that are unique. These perfumers extend the bespoke experience to the bottles that encapsulate the perfumes. Lyn Harris’s bottles are hand-blown in England, making them unique and collectable. Roja Dove’s perfumes are presented in Baccarat crystal and the gold lettering on his bottles is screen-printed by hand.

A bespoke perfume is the latest in genuine luxury, as intrinsic to an outfit as the perfect handbag, the right pair of shoes. Christian Dior once said that ‘a woman’s perfume tells more about her than her handwriting.’ Make sure, then, that the person you reveal to the world through your fragrance is who you truly are

offer to find the one that truly reflects their personality – not quite bespoke, but there is still a sense of finding ‘the one’. Dove has also reintroduced classic perfumes such as Diorama by Dior and Ombre Rose by Jean-Charles Brosseau, widening the choice for customers seeking something a little different.

Last October perfumer Azzi Glasser opened a bespoke atelier in her London studio. Appointments are bookable via the Harvey Nichols department store’s concierge service. Glasser has created bespoke scents for Hollywood names such as Johnny Depp, Helena Bonham Carter and Jude Law. Glasser takes into account her clients’ personality, scent

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Jessica McCormack’s unconventionally informal approach to high jewellery makes her diamond-based designs accessible, emotive and extremely covetable,

says Beth Druce

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Above (from top): Jessica McCormack Hurricane pendant; the jewellery designer’s flagship store

Jessica McCormack is quietly changing the way that people shop for jewels. She creates high jewellery with a twist: antique-inspired pieces that fuse

old-world heritage with a fresh, modern edge. McCormack loves creating what she calls a ‘snapshot of time’ – a piece that captures a particularly signifcant part of a client’s life, perhaps an anniversary or a birth – and her approach is refreshingly relaxed, as she explains at her ‘house’ on Carlos Place. McCormack calls it her house partly because it is, but also because having premises where her clients feel at home was instrumental in how her brand evolved away from the traditional high-jewellery retail model towards a bespoke, highly personal, approachable service.

‘I was too scared to go into a shop on Bond Street,’ McCormack says of her early days in London. Her own atelier is far from intimidating. ‘You can come and hang out in here, and you can look at books, and you can be inspired. I was working on a Saturday and these people came in and I didn’t have any shoes on. They asked: “But are you Jessica, and do you always work on the shop floor?”’

McCormack’s fresh, informal take on the high jewellery world is tempered by a serious approach to design. Prior to founding her company, she worked at the Sotheby’s auction house, where her appetite for precious jewels was unleashed. ‘I was exposed to Russian crown jewels, 1920s Cartier, Lalique, the most incredible jewellery. Being from New Zealand, I’d never seen anything like it!’ she recalls. It was at this time that diamonds first made an impact on her, and it’s these stones that characterise her work today.

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Above (clockwise from top): grey diamond flower ring, Wing of Desire earring and diamond necklace, all Jessica McCormack; the designer’s Snowdrop Riviere necklace; her jewellery gallery

‘Diamonds are really important to what I do now but it’s how I choose a diamond, how I look at a diamond, that’s very different to how anybody does it,’ she explains. ‘Everybody is obsessed with certificates and facts and figures and commoditising to the nth degree. I’m looking at it like I look at a piece of art, with my eyes. I think, “Is that beautiful? Is that something that I want?”’

McCormack’s signature styles include her Wing of Desire earrings, inspired by the Greek messenger god Hermès with his winged sandals. Made to order, with a principal round brilliant-cut diamond and set with more of the same, they can be worn curved up or down. The Tattoo earrings are set with 500 pavé-set brilliant-cut diamonds and recall Maori tattoos, an example of McCormack’s capacity for storytelling through jewels, as well as a nod to her New Zealand roots. McCormack recently unveiled her Diamond Party Jacket collection, inspired by the keeper rings popular in the 18th century, which were originally worn to protect other rings and keep them from sliding off. The Diamond Party Jackets are halos of diamonds that wrap around an existing ring.

Many of McCormack’s creations involve reworking precious stones or existing pieces into something more wearable. Family

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diamonds set alongside stones that recall the blue eyes of the owner’s offspring, or a diamond pendant whose underside is etched with the geographical coordinates of places someone holds dear.

Ultimately, McCormack’s work is about creating jewellery with emotional resonance that goes beyond the material value of the piece – and a corresponding sense of joy and affinity. This is a far cry from conventional notions of fine jewellery – and the feeling that high-value pieces must be saved for special occasions, or treated with an uncomfortable sense of reverence. ‘I’m creating pieces that people can live a life in partnership with; wear it, use it, love it, appreciate it,’ McCormack explains. ‘You want it to live a life with you, not to just be something you wear once a year’

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Above (clockwise from top): a Jessica McCormack artisan at work; the designer’s House collection; Tattoo earrings and diamond Shell Sail ring

heirlooms, such as engagement rings passed down through generations, are some of her favourite commissions, bringing with them the opportunity to breathe new life into heritage pieces. ‘I love that there’s that old-world sentiment behind it, because that’s the emotional side as well, that’s really important,’ says the designer. ‘You create these pieces that have layers and stories.’

These layers and stories are crafted through ‘conversation and drawing a little out of the person,’ an exchange that embodies McCormack’s philosophy. ‘There are little things that you pick up that they don’t even realise that they’re saying; whether they have children or grandchildren or animals, or they live in the country or have a certain affinity with somewhere.’ The result might be

McCormack creates jewellery with emotional resonance that goes beyond its material value

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MAYFAIR MARVELSA wave of new fagships in the Mount Street

area showcases the work of some highly

desirable designers. Harriet Quick takes a

tour of this must-visit luxury destination

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Above: Christopher Kane’s flagship store on Mount Street90 93

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Above (clockwise from left): Simone Rocha; Christopher Kane; Nicholas Kirkwood; Roksanda - the new crop of boutiques with

prestigious Mount Street addresses

Enter Simone Rocha’s flagship store on Mount Street and you will find yourself wandering around a softly-hued space observing sculptures, giant marble

ottomans and even a gazebo, which houses mannequins dressed in Rocha’s Japan-inspired spring/summer collection. Most women who try on her crinkly kimono-fabric flounce skirt or her obi-tied tech-nylon tunic will feel an affinity with her sweetly subversive codes of femininity. The store sits proudly on one of Mayfair’s most prestigious streets – a hop and a skip from the boutiques of such powerful brands as Loewe, Céline, Balenciaga and Marc Jacobs. Rocha doesn’t turn 30 until September 2016 and her first collection made its debut only five years ago: that she has already staked her claim on Mount Street bricks and mortar is a triumph.

The store opened last September and follows flagship openings on Mount Street and intersecting South Audley Street by designers Christopher Kane, Roksanda Ilincic, Nicholas Kirkwood and Erdem Moralıoğlu, all in their thirties. The presence of these boutiques is transforming the area. Each store is highly

individual, beautifully appointed and shows the many facets of London’s new face of luxury. The idea of owning a boutique in this kind of neighbourhood would have been just a pipe dream when these designers began their careers in east London warehouses and studios. The investment required is substantial. And yet, with backing deals from the fashion industry’s biggest investors, coupled with independent financial success, this generation of designers was able to take the plunge.

The architectural and artistic collaborations that characterise these spaces are impressive. Christopher Kane worked with minimalist

Each of the spaces is a testament not just to the brands but to the designers and the ways they like to shop

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architect John Pawson to realise the two-storey marble-clad temple that shows off his electrifying designs. ‘I was getting tired of looking at everything but the clothes. Chandelier! Whoop! Sofa! Whoop! So many obstructions. I don’t want something that looks dated in five years. I wanted a carved-out, clean space in beautiful materials,’ says Kane.

Roksanda Ilincic, who recently dropped her surname from her eponymous brand, called on architect David Adjaye to work on her impressive boutique, which beguiles with textures, subtle colourways and metallic finishes. ‘I wanted a home for my clothes. There are many contrasts. From the moment you enter you sense an industrial, feminine and luxurious feel and downstairs there is a more discreet, warm, homely space,’ says Ilincic. In contrast, Kirkwood’s store features a floor-to-ceiling display of his playful sculptural heels. Each of the spaces is a testament not just to the brands but to their designers and the ways they themselves like to shop.

While many of these brands are backed by fashion powerhouses, Erdem Moralıoğlu owns P

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Above: English caption xxxxx qui officiducius ma nit fuga. Faccus in coreratus nistora nat quam aborecepere, et modi quis cum facil

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Above (clockwise from left): Erdem Moralıoğlu; the interior of Nicholas Kirkwood’s boutique; Christopher Kane high-top trainers

the entirety of his own company. This is unusual, but, supported by his impressive international clientele, he too has seen great success. Take a sharp left at the end of Mount Street and you will discover the genteel surrounds of the designer’s flagship, which he designed with his architect partner Philip Joseph. Restored ironwork, artworks by David Hockney and Jean Cocteau and tropical foliage all contribute to a townhouse ambience that perfectly showcases Moralıoğlu’s poetic, romantic designs.

‘There’s a marvellous Victorian fern garden, furniture I developed with Philip and 20th-century modern pieces from Sigmar on the King’s Road,’ says Moralıoğlu of the décor. Like the store, his creations deftly marry the

desires of today with the handicrafts and silhouettes of a bygone era.

These environments bring the delight back into shopping and show off a richer array of products, designs and services than a department store might offer, including exclusive lines. Discover crystal tassel key rings and a newly launched line of trainers at Kane, languid blouses, swimwear and Ilincic’s famous occasionwear at Roksanda, and a debut shoe line at Erdem. That these brands are investing in unique bricks-and-mortar spaces is a testament not just to the creativity of those behind them, but also to the longevity of designers who were seen as the new crowd not so long ago

Rich arrays of designs, products and services bring the delight back into shopping

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London has a long history of cocktail drinking. Londoners developed a thirst for gin, a key component of many classic cocktails, in the late 17th century, particularly as unlicensed production was legal – and London gin became distinct from the Dutch genever spirit that it was based on. By 1726, London had 1,500 working stills and there were 6,287 places where you could buy gin, according to spirits company Sipsmith.

One of the first printed mentions of ‘cocktail’ to mean a mixed drink was made in a London newspaper in 1798; and Cooling Cups and Dainty Drinks by William Terrington, one of the first British books to include cocktail recipes, was published in 1869. Today we remain as enamoured of mixed drinks as ever.

Drinks International’s most recent list of the world’s best 50 bars includes no fewer than nine in London, with five in the top 10 – making the city arguably the cocktail capital of the world. Some of its best mixologists are found in bars that are off the beaten track. Our choices offer innovative drinks, world-class service, a relaxed atmosphere – and a memorable evening.

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RAISING THE BARLondon’s top cocktails are often found in drinking dens tucked away in basements or on back streets. Theresa Harold goes under cover to discover

O R I O L E

A five-minute walk from Farringdon station but a world away in terms of atmosphere, Oriole brings the glamour and adventure of the 1940s into a modern cocktail bar. The sumptuous space is decked out with exotic antiques and live bands play jazz and blues. The cocktail menu has three sections: New World, Old World and The Orient. The New World menu evokes the Americas, the Old World choices are derived

from the diversity of Europe, while the Orient cocktails draw on the intensity and variety of flavours from the east. Our top tip: don’t miss Cortez the Killer, a mix of Don Julio Reposado tequila, balsamic vermouth and agave tonka syrup. Oriole, East Poultry Avenue, Smithfield Markets, London EC1A 9LH, +44 (0)20 3457 8099, oriolebar.com

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N A M E O F P L A C E

English русский язык Russian

中国的 ChineseName Of Place,Address and Telephonewebsite

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The Bar With No Name at 69 Colebrooke Row in north London references 1950s Italian café style and film noir elements. This drinking den can be hard to track down as there is no name above the door. Situated on an Islington back street, it is an intimate one-room bar identifiable by an outdoor lantern. Owner Tony Conigliaro has created a concise menu of

cocktails with intriguing names such as Death In Venice – Campari with grapefruit bitters, topped with Prosecco and finished with an orange twist.The Bar With No Name, 69 Colebrooke Row, London N1 8AA, +44 (0)7540 528593, 69colebrookerow.com

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W H I T E L Y A N

With award-winning bartender Ryan Chetiyawardana and his business partner Iain Griffiths at the helm, there is little that can go wrong at White Lyan. All drinks are made with the bar’s own Mr Lyan spirits and ingredients; they are pre-mixed and include no ice or perishables (even lemon), so the bartender simply has to pour the bottle into a glass before giving it a quick spritz with an aromatic spray. If this sounds gimmicky, rest assured that the results speak for themselves. White Lyan, 153-155 Hoxton Street, London N1 6PJ, +44 (0)20 3011 1153, whitelyan.com

H A P P I N E S S F O R G E T S

Happiness Forgets is well worth the effort needed to locate it in a tricky-to-find Hoxton basement. Ali Burgess founded the bar in 2010 and it has been a firm favourite with London’s cocktail aficionados ever

since. The menu features such delights as Perfect Storm, a mix of dark rum, honey, lemon, freshly squeezed ginger juice and plum brandy. Alongside the cocktails, there is also an extensive wine and beer list. Make a reservation

via the bar’s website – or simply drop in, as half the tables are kept for walk-up customers. Happiness Forgets, 8-9 Hoxton Square, London N1 6NU, happinessforgets.com

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The world’s finest hotels boast desirable locations, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities that range from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spas. SHOP shares its pick of some of the best

STAY IN STYLE

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boasting terraces or private balconies. For panoramic views of the city, venture up to Settimo Cielo, the highest rooftop terrace in Venice, where breakfast is served. And don’t forget to book dinner at De Pisis, Bauer Palazzo’s gourmet restaurant, where chef Hiraki Masakazu will impress you with his Asian-inspired Mediterranean cuisine.Bauer Palazzo, Campo San Moisè, San Marco 1459, 30124 Venice, +39 041 520 7022, bauervenezia.com

BAUER PALAZZO

The Bauer Palazzo hotel is the perfect romantic bolthole. Located on the banks of the Grand Canal in Venice, mere steps from Piazza San Marco, the luxurious five-star hotel is housed in a traditional 18th-century Venetian palazzo with a Gothic façade and arched lancet windows. Bauer Palazzo offers 135 guest rooms and 56 suites, all sumptuously decorated, many

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10th floor which includes a roof terrace, allowing guests the chance to enjoy excellent food and drink while taking in the panoramic views. The hotel even has its own wood-fired bakery, which produces delicious breads and patisserie which can be enjoyed with a cup of excellent coffee.25Hours Hotel Bikini Berlin, Budapester Strasse 40, 10787 Berlin, +49 (0)30 120 2210, 25hours-hotels.com

25HOURS HOTEL BIKINI BERLIN

25Hours Hotel Bikini Berlin, located next to Berlin zoo, has a playful feel. The newly opened hotel, designed by Werner Aisslinger, comprises 149 rooms, some with views of the zoo’s ape and elephant enclosures. Neni restaurant – overseen by taste-making Austrian restaurateur Haya Molcho – and the Monkey bar occupy the

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enjoy panoramic views of some of Kuala Lumpur’s most famous sights, including the Petronas Twin Towers. Excellent facilities are available, such as the award-winning Sompoton Spa (which is open from 10am to 11pm), a residents’ lounge, fitness centre and an outdoor pool surrounded by palm trees. Pullman Kuala Lumpur City Centre, 4 Jalan Conlay, Bukit Bintang, 50450 Kuala Lumpur, +60 (0)3 2170 8888, pullmanhotels.com

PULLMAN KUALA LUMPUR CITY CENTRE

The Pullman Kuala Lumpur City Centre is the perfect choice for travellers on account of its location at the heart of the Bukit Bintang district, and being just a short walk from the city’s fashionable and popular Pavilion shopping mall. The hotel offers 445 modern and spacious guestrooms in addition to 157 serviced apartments. Guests can expect to

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WALDORF ASTORIA AMSTERDAM

Positioned on Herengracht, one of Amsterdam’s best-known canals, the Waldorf Astoria Amsterdam combines Dutch style and history with the luxury and attention to detail for which Waldorf Astoria hotels are known worldwide. The hotel is in a former merchant’s house with plenty of spacious, light-filled rooms providing views of the adjacent canal and of the house’s

pleasant courtyard garden. For those looking for particularly spacious accommodation, the distinctive Brentano Suite possesses its own dining room, study and walk-in closet. Afternoon tea is served in the refined surroundings of the hotel’s Peacock Alley, gourmands will enjoy De Librije restaurant, which holds three Michelin stars, and the cosy Vault Bar is the ideal place for a nightcap. Waldorf Astoria Amsterdam, Herengracht 542-556, 1017 CG Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 718 4600, hilton.com/amsterdam

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Above: Westminster Bridge and the Houses of Parliament, viewed across the Thames

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to London with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from a fashionable florist to this season’s unmissable sporting, musical and cultural events. Start with our recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/london.

A Glimpse Of London

THE GUIDE

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MUSEUM

ROYAL ALBERT

HALL

KENSINGTON PALACE

NATURAL HISTORY

MUSEUM

SERPENTINE GALLERY

PAGE

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Place Of Interest Train Station London Underground Station Featured In This Issue

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Mount Street, Davies Street & Bruton Street

GROSVENOR HILL

BOURDON STREET

MOUNT ROW

BRUTON STREET

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OXFORD STREET

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BROWNS ●BROWNS FOCUS ●

WHISTLES ●CLAUDIE PIERLOT ●

PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND ●BUTLER & WILSON ●

ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ●DUNE ●

VERTICE UOMO ●LUMAS GALLERY ●

JONES ●MONICA VINADER ●

AFTERSHOCK ●

POSTE ●COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ●

MODA IN PELLE ●AUBADE ●

FREY WILLE ●SANDRO ●

ANNOUSHKA ●SPENCER ● HART

● DUNHILL

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● A

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VERA WANGAT BROWNS ●

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● ROBERT CLERGERIE

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The Beaumont

Hotel Restaurant

Department Store

SELECTED STORE IN SELFRIDGES:

Tiffany & Co

JIMMY CHOO

Accessories specialist Jimmy Choo

celebrates its 20th anniversary in 2016; to

mark the occasion, the brand has launched

Memento, a capsule collection of shoes and

bags that showcases the best of the label’s

history, focusing on its frequent presence

on the red carpet. The collection’s 20

designs, a mix of new looks and classic

styles reimagined, all presented in special

packaging, celebrate the all-out glamour

that Jimmy Choo has come to embody. A

piece from the Memento range is a

must-have for fans of the brand.

Jimmy Choo, 27 New Bond Street,

London W1S 2RH, +44 (0)20 7493 5858,

jimmychoo.com

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Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

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SHOP | 73

New Bond Street

TENTERDEN STREET TENTERDEN STREET

GROSVENOR HILL

BOURDON STREET

DO

VE

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CLIFFORD STREET

BROOK STREET HANOVER STREET

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MADDOX ST.

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SO

UT

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TR

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OXFORD STREET OXFORD STREET

HERMÈS ●

LORO PIANA ●

CHANEL ●

CHRISTIAN DIOR ●

CHURCH’S LADIES ●

BOUCHERON ●

ASPREY OF LONDON ●

BURBERRY ●

BULGARI ●

PIAGET ●

MARCUS ●

HARRY WINSTON ●

MOUSSAIEFF ●

VANLELES DIAMONDS ●

CHANEL ●

CHAUMET ●

CARTIER ●

BOODLES ●

MIKIMOTO ●

DAVID MORRIS ●

● WATCHES OF SWITZERLAND

● PATEK PHILLIPE

● DE GRISOGONO

● ADLER

● CHOPARD

● MOIRA

● BREGUET

● VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

● GRAFF

● RALPH LAUREN

● BURBERRY

● LOUIS VUITTON

● NEXT

● BYFORD

● ZEGNA

● BATEEL

● LEONIDAS

● WATCHES OF BOND ST

● BASLER

● SARAH PACINI

● OROGOLD

● DOLCE & GABANNA

● EMPORIO ARMANI

● MULBERRY

● WEMPE

● COACH

● SMYTHSON

● ZEGNA

● DELVAUX

● HUBLOT

● ANNE FONTAINE

● LONGCHAMP

● JIMMY CHOO

● LUCIE CAMPBELL

● RUSSELL & BROMLEY

● DSQUARED2

ZARA ●

TM LEWIN ●

HOUSE OF LABELS ●

PRONOVIAS ●

VICTORINOX ●

BOUDI ●

LORIBLU ●

MEPHISTO ●

BONHAMS ●

RM WILLIAMS ●

HOUSE OF LABLES ●

MARITHE FRANCOIS GIRBAUD ●

RUSSELL & BROMLEY ●

VICTORIA’S SECRET ●

ANYA HINDMARCH ●

MONT BLANC ●

FOLLI FOLLIE ●

HUGO BOSS ●

CAR SHOE WAREHOUSE ●

Z ZEGNA ●

PAL ZILERI ●

CANALI ●

BREITLING ●

CORNELIANI ●

CHURCH’S ●

IWC ●

BELSTAFF ●

MISSONI ●

SJ PHILIPS ●

ZILLI ●

FENDI ●

POLO RALPH LAUREN

(CHILDRENS) ●

TORY BURCH ●

MIU MIU ●

OPERA GALLERY

● PIN

ET

● R

OHMIR

● CHARLOTTE O

LYMPIA

● E M

ARINELLA

● A

SAUVAGE

● N

ATASHA ZINKO

● THE BOX BOUTIQUE

TEMPERLEY ●

WILLIA

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LUDWIG

REITER

● 77 DIAMONDS

WOLF & BADGER ●

GENTLEMEN’S TONIC ●

● BALLY

● IS

SEY MIY

AKE

JIMMY CHOO ●

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN ●

VICTORIA BECKHAM ●

BRUNELLO

● CUCINELLI

Fenwick

Place Of Interest London Underground Station Featured In This Issue

P.74

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CONSTANTIN ●

VERTU ●

VALENTINO ●

CARTIER ●

ETRO ●

LA PERLA ●

DE BEERS ●

ALEXANDER

WANG ●

CHANEL ●

DKNY ●

CAMPER ●

CARTUJANO ●

ROLEX ●

AKRIS ●

LEVIEV ●

SAINT LAURENT ●

● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

● JOSEPH

● CHATILA

● MAX MARA

● PRADA

BOTTEGA

● VENETA

● DANIEL KATZ

● JAEGER LECOULTRE

● OMEGA

● DAMIANI

● DAKS

● LA PERLA

● DOLCE & GABBANA

● ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

● TOD’S

● JAEGER-LECOULTRE

● MAPPIN & WEBB

GIANMARIA

BUCCELLATI ●

THE ROYAL

ACADEMY

The Wolseley

Le Caprice

Burlington Arcade

TIFFANY & CO ●

PAUL SMITH ●

Dover

Street

Market

GIE

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HA

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TA

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Conduit Street & Old Bond Street

London Underground Station Global Blue Retailer

Shopping Centre/Mall

Non-Global Blue Retailer

WEMPE

Statement jewellery is a key trend this season and Wempe’s spring/summer 2016 collection is nothing short of dazzling. Distinctive, eye-catching highlights include the Revival By Kim necklace, a chic, contemporary take on the classic curb-link chain necklace. This classic 1970s style has been redesigned in feminine rose gold and combines a bold handmade link chain with a solid necklace. For evening, jewellery fans should seek out By Kim’s exquisite Colonna cocktail rings, adorned with a sizeable tourmaline in either sea green or purple, as well as the spectacular haute joaillerie bracelet whose sapphire and diamond design was inspired by the crest of a wave. Wempe, 43-44 New Bond Street, London W1S 2SA, +44 (0)20 7493 2299, wempe.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 73

LOCAL TIP

Marble Arch, designed by John Nash in 1828,

was originally conceived as the state entrance to

Buckingham Palace, but when this royal residence

was extended by Queen Victoria the structure

was moved to Hyde Park.

Restaurant

SELECTED STORES IN BURLINGTON ARCADE:

Manolo BlahnikBell & RossFrédéric Malle

P.30

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● TEZENIS

CA

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AB

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TR

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FOUBERT 'S PLACE

GREAT CASTLE STREET

GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET

OXFORD STREET

RE

GE

NT

ST

RE

ET

RE

GE

NT

ST

RE

ET

OXFORD CIRCUS

BENETTON ●

● NIKETOWN

● TOPSHOP/TOPMANH&M ●

LEVI’S ●

FRENCH CONNECTION ●

KAREN MILLEN ●

TED BAKER ●

APPLE STORE ●

LACOSTE ●

LONGCHAMP ●

MOLTON BROWN ●7 FOR ALL

MANKIND ●MICHAEL KORS ●

FURLA ●HOBBS ●

BARKER ● TUMI ●

CAMPER ●KIPLING ●CLARKS ●

CHURCH’S ●

THE PEN SHOP ●

GANT ●

● H

OU

SE

OF

HA

NO

VE

R

● BANANA REPUBLIC

● OMEGA

● & OTHER STORIES

● ACCESSORIZE

● ARMANI EXCHANGE

● ALL SAINTS

● H&M

● COS

● DESIGUAL

● GAP

● JAEGER

● KURT GEIGER

● HAMLEYS

● JUICY COUTURE

GO BOSS

Liber t y

● AQUASCUTUM

Featured In This Issue Department Store Place Of Interest

SHOP DIARYA ROUND UP OF THIS SEASON’S MUST-DOS...

JUN

WIMBLEDON

The Wimbledon Championships, which

run until 10 July, are one of the world’s

most prestigious tennis tournaments and a

highlight of London’s summer calendar. Luck out

by scoring some Centre Court tickets, or simply

stop by to enjoy the high-spirited ambience.

wimbledon.com

JUN

AUDREY HEPBURN:

PORTRAITS OF AN ICON

Audrey Hepburn is an enduring beauty

and style icon, and this exhibition at the National

Portrait Gallery offers a glimpse of the actress’s

long and feted career, alongside intimate family

photographs.

npg.org.uk/whatson/hepburn

JUN

BBC PROMS

The Henry Wood Promenade Concerts,

better known as the Proms, are the

UK’s best-known classical music festival. The

aim is for as many people as possible to enjoy

these informal, inexpensive concerts and the

festival showcases a wide variety of music in a

range of inspired venues.

bbc.co.uk/proms

Regent Street

Above: National Portrait Gallery

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Regent Street, Piccadilly & Jermyn Street

SA

CK

VIL

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GLASSHOUSE STREET

CHARLES II STREET

LO

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OH

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LO

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AM

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ST

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B

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BU

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DU

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JA

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K

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DU

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OF

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HAM YARD

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ST

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JERMYN STREET

JERMYN STREET

LO

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PICCADILLY

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ST

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PICCADILLYCIRCUS

PiccadillyCircus

St James’sSquare

WA

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TO

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● JO

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DW

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LO

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ILD

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H &

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UR

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UL

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ES

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UC

HA

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KE

R’S

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MM

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IS

● D

AV

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CA

SE

Fo

rt

nu

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Ma

so

n

TIG

ER

OF

● S

WE

DE

N

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ag

lino

’s

Prin

cess A

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● C

HU

RC

H’S

LA

MA

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INA

FR

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WIL

LE

CH

EA

NE

Y ●

EX

CE

LL

EN

CE

OF

LO

ND

ON

H

AW

ES

& C

UR

TIS

●T

HE

ST

ING

BA

RB

OU

R ●

RO

YA

L C

HIN

A S

HO

P ●

PA

RIS

MIK

I ●W

HIT

TAR

D ●

MOLESKINE ●

CRABTREE &EVELYN ●

L’OCCITANE ●

WATCHES OF SWITZERLAND ●

OXFORDS ●

GODIVA ●

SWAROVSKI ●

ZARA HOME ●

PENHALIGON’S ●

TOYWATCH ●

BURBERRY ●

REISS ●

SUPERDRY ●

CLARKS ●LONDON TEXTILE CO ●

● HUGO BOSS

● ESPRIT

● LEVI’S

● REISS

● WOLFORD

● CALVIN KLEIN JEANS

● GUESS

● ANTHROPOLOGIE

● MASSIMO DUTTI

● PIQUADRO

● BROOKS BROTHERS

● TIMBERLAND

● TOMMY HILFIGER

● MAPPIN & WEBB

RUSSELL &● BROMLEY

● TM LEWIN

● FOLLI FOLLIE

● THE BODY SHOP

● ZARA

● MANGO

● LILLYWHITES

● JAMES LOCK & CO

● AUSTIN REED● WOLFORD

● VIYELLA● CHARLES TYRWHITT

● MOSS BROS● UNIQLO

● COACH

HOLLISTER ●

HUNTER ●

● NESPRESSO● LOTUS

Cinnamon Soho

● LUSH

CA

MP

OM

AR

ZIO

OSPREY ●

● BERRY BROS & RUDD

CaféRoyal

UGG● AUSTRALIA

● MR HARE

DE

NM

AN

PL

AC

E

DENMAN STREET

FRESCOBAL CARIOCA ●

DINOSAUR DESIGN ●

BRUMMELS OF LONDON ●ONCE ● MILANO

EYEWEAR ● CONCIERGE

Jinjuu

ORLEBAR BROWN ●

● OUR LEGACY

● WOLFORD

L’Atelier deJoël Robuchon

Shopping Centre/Mall

Featured In This Issue

Department Store Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

SELECTED STORES IN PRINCESS ARCADE:

The Left Shoe Company

Page 77: SHOP London Lux SS16

SHOP | 77

Brompton Road

HANS ROAD

HANS ROAD

WA

LTON

ST

RE

ET

B

AS

IL S

TR

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T

TR

EV

OR

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ST

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MONTPELIER PL

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STREET

HANS CRESCENT

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KENSINGTON ROAD KENSINGTON ROAD

BEAUCHAMP PLACE

PONT STREET

BROM

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BR

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UTC

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AR

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UP

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HU

RC

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AP

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UN

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INK

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PR

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S● M

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& S

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NC

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PE

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KNIGHTSBRIDGE

CA

RO

LIN

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HA

RL

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KNIGHTSBRIDGEA

RO

MA

TH

ER

AP

Y

AS

SO

CIA

TE

S ●

HARVEY

NICHOLS ●

● SKANDIUM

● ANYA HINDMARCH

Bulgari Hotel

● JOSEPH

Harrods

Hotel Place Of Interest London Underground Station Restaurant Café

SELECTED STORES IN HARRODS:

Lladro Vertu Atelier Des Ors Hill & Friends Hublot

P.98

P.37

Page 78: SHOP London Lux SS16

78 | GUIDE

Sloane Street South Sloane Street North

BA

SIL

ST

REET

HARRIET ST.

CADOGAN PL ACE

LO

WN

DE

S S

T.

LowndesSquare

SL

OA

NE

ST

RE

ET

S

LO

AN

E S

TR

EE

T

● GARRARD

● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

● SERGIO ROSSI

● ALBERTA FERRETTI

● ZEGNA

● TOM FORD

● ERMANNO SCERVINO

● MONCLER

● FRATELLI ROSSETTI

● ESCADA

● MISSONI

● LOUIS VUITTON

KNIGHTSBRIDGE

BOODLES ●KID SPACE ●

MCM ●H&M ●

TOD’S ●

GIORGIO ARMANI ●

PRADA ●

LORO PIANA ●GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI

DESIGN ●

SHANGHAI TANG ●OMEGA ●

DOLCE & GABANA ●JITROIS ●

CESARE PACIOTTI ●MICHAEL KORS ●

BILLIONAIRE ●HOGAN ●GRAFF ●

ANNE FONTAINE ●

BONPOINT ●

JOSEPH ●

GUCCI ●

ROBERTO CAVALLI ●

MARNI ●GIANFRANCO FERRÉ ●

MICHAEL KORS ●

DIOR ●

JIMMY CHOO ●

BOTTEGA VENETA ●

● BERLUTI● GINA

● ROGER VIVIER

● MIU MIU

● VERSACE

● FENDI

● HERMÈS

● BULGARI

● DOLCE & GABBANA

● VALENTINO

● SAINT LAURENT

● EMILIO PUCCI

● CHANEL

● DRJIE

● LA PERLA

● COUTTS & CO BANK

AM

OU

AG

E ●

GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI ●

Har vey Nichols

ELLIS STREET

CADOGAN PLACE CADOGAN GATE

CADOGAN GARDENS

WILBR AHAM PL .

SLOANE TERR ACE

SL

OA

NE

GA

RD

EN

S

SloaneSquare

S

LO

AN

E S

TR

EE

T

KING’S RD

SYMONS STREET

LO

WE

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LO

AN

E S

TR

EE

T

LES PETITES ●

MARIE CHANTAL ●

PAUL & JOE ●

FRANK SMYTHSON ●

HACKETT ●

ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ●

CARTIER ●

TIFFANY & CO ●

PETERJONES ●

LINKS OF LONDON ●

● PINK

● PAULE KA● BRUNELLO CUCINELLI● ANYA HINDMARCH● BROWNS

● CHLOÉ

● JO MALONE

● H

UG

O B

OS

S

● D

OD

O●

BO

GG

I

● PICKETT

● MAJE

● LARA BOHNIC

● PICKETT

● N PEAL

● CASSANDRA GOAD

● H

OS

S IN

TR

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IA

● T

M L

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& P

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ROYAL COURT

THEATRE

● E

LL

IOT

RH

OD

ES

KIK

I ● Colbert

TR

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RS

TH

E K

OO

PL

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RU

SS

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L & B

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●A

NN

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SH

KA

● KABIRI

BIMBA Y● LOLA

VIVIENNE● WESTWOOD

SLOANESQUARE

Place Of Interest

Featured In This Issue

Department Store Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

TIFFANY

Tiffany has been one of the world’s most iconic

jewellers for over 175 years. The American

company remains firmly committed to superlative

quality, while remaining ahead of trends and

producing exquisite jewels that are passed from

generation to generation. The Tiffany T

collection, the first from design director Francesca

Amfitheatrof, includes necklaces, rings and

bracelets inspired by the bold, sculptural shape of

the letter T and the distinctive architecture of

New York, where the company was founded.

Tiffany & Co,

145 Sloane Street, London SW1X 9AY,

+44 (0)800 160 1114, tiffany.co.uk

Page 79: SHOP London Lux SS16

SHOP | 79

Redchurch Street

MONTCLARESTREET

LIGONIERSTREET

WHITBY ST

REET

SCLATER STREET

EBORSTREET

BETHNAL

GREEN

ROAD

CLUBROW

CLUBROW

CALVERT AVENUECALVERT AVENUE

BOUNDARYSTREET

SWANFIELDSTREET

OLD NICHOL

STREET

REDCHURCH STREET

REDCHURC

H STREE

T

SHOREDITCHHIGHSTREET

SHOREDITCHHIGHSTREET

Alb

ion

Bo

un

dary

CA

TC

H &

RE

LE

AS

E ●

NO

BL

E L

EA

TH

ER

WA

RE

MA

ISO

N T

RO

IS G

AR

CO

NS

HO

ST

EM

SU

NS

PE

L ●A

IMÉ

●A

PC

CARHARTT ●

Owl & thePussycat

THE GALLERY ●

THOR & WHISTLE ●● URBAN INTERIOR

LA

BO

UR

& W

AIT

SHOREDITCH

HOUSE

Boxpark

● START

London Underground Station Shopping Centre/Mall Restaurant Bar

TAKE A WALK

Best known for its staggering array of fashion boutiques,

London’s West End is also a must-visit for architecture lovers.

Begin your architectural walking tour at iconic department

store Liberty of London, renowned for its Tudor-inspired

exterior, before heading to Regent Street to check out the

impeccably restored Salviati mosaics in the super-sleek Apple

store. From there, it’s a short walk to Hanover Square, home

to St George’s Church, which was considered London’s most

fashionable place of worship in the mid 18th century. Handel

had his own pew here, and 25 Brook Street, where the

composer lived, is nearby. Musician Jimi Hendrix lived next

door at 23 Brook Street for some time in the 1960s. End up

on bustling Oxford Street and take a moment to appreciate

the clean mid-century design of the John Lewis store, which

has a Barbara Hepworth sculpture affixed to one side. PH

OT

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PA

WE

L L

IBE

RA

/LO

ND

ON

AN

D P

AR

TN

ER

S

Page 80: SHOP London Lux SS16

80 | GUIDE

Ledbury Road

COLVILLE MEWS

NE

ED

HA

M R

OA

D

L

ONSDALE ROADCO

VIL

LE

RO

AD

DE

NB

IGH

RO

AD

ARTESIAN ROAD

COLVINE TERR ACE

S

CHEPSTOW

VILLAS

LE

DB

UR

Y R

OA

D

LE

DB

UR

Y R

OA

D

W

ESTBOURNE GROVE

WESTBOURNE GROVE

TWENTY8TWELVE ●MATCHES ●

DIANE VON FURSTENBERG ●THE VILLAGE BICYCLE ●

CARAMEL ●LYON CHOY LONDON ●

PETIT BATEAU ●

ANYA HINDMARCH ●MR HARE ●

● PENOLOPE CHILVERS

● MATCHES

● ECONE

● I LOVE GORGEOUS

● JW BEETON

● MELISSA ODABASH

EMMA HOPE ●

MARIE-CHANTAL CHILDREN ●

IRIS ●

JOSEPH ●

MELT ●

ASHLEY STORES ●

ASSYA LONDON ●

JEEVES ●

FARA BABY ●

FARA KIDS ●

● WOLF & BADGER

● ROBIN MARTIN ANTIQUES

● ZADIG & VOLTAIRE

● REISS

● BODAS

● DAVID CLULOW

● PETIT AIMEBeach Blanket Babylon

Otolenghi

E&O

● ORLEBAR BROWN

Restaurant Café Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

CLERKENWELL LONDON

The coolest concept store on Farringdon

Road, previously known as the Clerkenwell

Collection, has been rebranded as Clerkenwell

London after a stylish redesign. This

boutique, design space, restaurant, café-bar

and events venue was already a unique

location and is now better than ever. Visitors

can browse a great selection of homewares,

menswear, womenswear, accessories,

jewellery, stationery, art, music and literature.

If this exhaustive list isn’t enticing enough,

155 Bar & Kitchen, the in-house restaurant,

offers coffee in the morning, cocktails at night,

and delicious food and drink in between.

Clerkenwell London, 155 Farringdon Road,

London EC1R 3AD, +44 (0)20 3826 1142,

clerkenwell-london.com

PH

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Page 81: SHOP London Lux SS16

SHOP | 81

Westbourne Grove & Denbigh Road

COLVILLE MEWS

NE

ED

HA

M R

OA

D

L

ONSDALE ROADCO

VIL

LE

RO

AD

DE

NB

IGH

RO

AD

ARTESIAN ROAD

COLVINE TERR ACE

CHEPSTOW

VILLAS

LE

DB

UR

Y R

OA

D

LE

DB

UR

Y R

OA

D

W

ESTBOURNE GROVE

WESTBOURNE GROVE

● M

AR

Y'S

LIV

ING

& G

IVIN

G S

HO

P

● P

ET

BO

UT

IQU

E A

ND

CA

FE

LO

UN

GE

● T

HE

NA

TU

RA

L S

HO

E S

TO

RE

● N

AN

OS

● W

HIS

TL

ES

● B

RO

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● W

OO

DH

OU

SE

● T

OA

ST

● V

EN

TIL

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● D

IPT

YQ

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● B

ON

PO

INT

● A

UB

AD

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Gra

ng

er &

Co

Da

yle

sford

TW

EN

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CL

AU

DIE

PIE

RL

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IDI K

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IN ●

FE

AT

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SA

ND

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DIG

& V

OLT

AIR

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S P

ET

ITE

S... ●

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FT

AU

BIN

& W

ILL

S ●

JIGS

AW

MA

JE ●

BR

ISS

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OO

PL

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DIN

NY

HA

LL

20

2 ●

OR

LE

BA

R B

RO

WN

SM

YT

HS

ON

JAM

ES

PE

RE

S ●

MA

XM

AR

A ●

LK

BE

NN

ET

T ●

TO

MS

7 F

OR

AL

L M

AN

KIN

D ●

JOS

EP

H ●

● A

ES

OP

● N

AV

Y &

WH

ITE

● L

EO

N M

AX

● T

HE

ME

S &

VA

RIA

TIO

NS

● R

AL

PH

LA

UR

EN

● C

OM

PT

OIR

DE

S C

OT

ON

NIE

RS

● H

EL

ME

T L

AN

G

● S

EN

LANNA ●WALL ●

PIP

PA

SM

AL

L JE

WE

LL

ER

S ●

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MP

ER

LE

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ON

DO

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LA

CY

GA

LL

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Y

The Ledbury

Place Of Interest

LOCAL TIP

When a fabulous floral bouquet is

required, Nikki Tibbles is a name

to know. The florist, who works

with many of the city’s most

exclusive fashion houses, has an

exquisite Chelsea store in addition

to selling her blooms at Liberty.

Expect astonishingly beautiful

arrangements that appear almost

effortless in their perfection.

Nikki Tibbles Wild At Heart,

30A Pimlico Road,

London SW1W 8LJ,

+44 (0)20 7229 1174,

wildatheart.com

PH

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OR

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Page 82: SHOP London Lux SS16

Above (from top): Lucy Dickens; the Ruby Violet ice cream store

82 | GU I DE

‘I’ve lived in London all my adult life – I’m a veteran north Londoner. I live in Kentish Town. I love the great mix of cultures and the lack of chain stores. Even if money were no object, I’d still live in the same house, if I could just move it a little nearer to Hampstead Heath, where I walk every day with my lurcher Lenny.

‘In London, my favourite store is Liberty * p.75, which is hard to beat for sheer style. For everyday shopping, I stick to Kentish Town. I walk to

Artist Lucy Dickens is the great-great-granddaughter of author Charles Dickens, one of the most famous Englishmen, and shares his love of the city where he set many of his most famous novels. Where Charles Dickens captured London and its vibrant citizens in words, Lucy Dickens represents them through her paintings, which particularly focus on the area around Berkeley Square, Mayfair, where she has worked for years. She shares her favourite places in the city that inspires her with Isabella Redmond Styles

lucydickens.com

MY LONDON: LUCY DICKENS

Earth, a wonderful organic food shop. I can also find fresh herbs, Lebanese specialities and fantastic lamb, which I slow-cook in the Aga. I buy books at the Owl Bookshop. Salvino is an Italian deli off Brecknock road in Kentish Town. Their coffee beans, parmigiana and pannetone are simply the best. My latest discoveries in the area are Shoe Shop, which is actually a restaurant, and Ruby Violet

for home-made ice creams next door.

‘Lemonia in Primrose Hill is another long-established

favourite. The same waiters have been serving tasty Greek dishes for decades and it’s the best place I know for family celebrations. I’ve been hanging out at the Ritz in Piccadilly a lot recently to gather material for my next exhibition. For less than £10 you can get coffee in a silver pot with two pieces of shortbread and watch the theatre of a grand old hotel play out in front of you. Quo

Vadis in Soho is great for special occasions. It has a clubby atmosphere and a seasonal menu. Another of my favourites is Moro in

PH

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Page 83: SHOP London Lux SS16

Above (from top): Royal Festival Hall; Lucy Dickens’s painting of the Ritz hotel in London’s Piccadilly; food from Moro restaurant

Exmouth Market. I have been going there for years and it’s always brilliant: a great mix of Spanish and north African flavours.

‘The South Bank is the place for river walks and culture: the National

Theatre * p.71 and Royal

Festival Hall * p.71 are both there, plus the London Eye

* p.71 and some terrific bars and restaurants.

‘I have a regular daily walk, which is a circuit of Hampstead Heath, in all weathers and seasons. From the top of Parliament Hill on Hampstead Heath you can see the whole of London in all its glory. I also enjoy walking along the South Bank of the river to Tate Modern, or from Kentish Town to King’s Cross along the canals.

‘St Paul’s Cathedral

offers history, elegance and beauty in the heart of the city.

The British Museum * p.71 is the best in London, without a doubt. It has everything.

‘To relax, I walk, meditate, do yoga and stare into a real fire on winter evenings. I have recently discovered the joys of growing my own vegetables.

‘When I travel, I love browsing bazaars and vintage stores rather than buying big

brands. I have found wonderful rugs in Udaipur and bought fabulous fabrics from Luang Prabang on a holiday in Laos last year.

‘My tip for exploring London would be to walk everywhere, avoiding main roads as far as possible. Never take the tube at rush hour and get a Muji mac with a big hood so you don’t need to carry an umbrella. I get around London by walking, bus-hopping and – after a night out – by black cab or Uber.’P

HO

TO

: DA

RR

EN

CH

UN

G

PH

OT

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OR

LE

Y V

ON

ST

ER

NB

ER

GA

RT

WO

RK

: LU

CY

DIC

KE

NS

SHOP | 83

Page 84: SHOP London Lux SS16

DAY TRIP

LONDON

M25

M1

M1

M40

M40

M40

A41

A41

BicesterVillage

BICESTER NORTH

BICESTER TOWN/ BICESTER VILLAGE

By Car

The journey from London

takes 60 minutes. Take the M40

motorway to exit nine. Follow

the A41 for two miles towards

Bicester and then follow the

signs to Village Retail Park and

Bicester Village Outlet Centre.

The car park is free. If you are

using a satellite navigation

system, the postcode is OX26

6WD.

By Shopping

Express

The Shopping Express is the

daily* coach service from central

London to Bicester Village, one

of the world’s premier luxury

shopping destinations.

*excludes 25 December

Ticket prices:

Adult return £28

Child return £23

(up to 15 years of age)

By Train

Two trains an hour run

from London Marylebone to

Bicester Village station. The

journey can take as little as 46

minutes. Alternatively, four train

services an hour run from

Marylebone to Bicester North

station, where the Bicester

Village shuttle bus will whisk you

to your favourite boutiques.

OPENING TIMES

Monday-Friday: 10am-7pm

Saturday: 9am-8pmSunday: 10am-7pm*

*On Sundays Burberry, Gucci, Hugo Boss and Polo Ralph Lauren open at 11.30am for browsing and at 12pm

for shopping; they close at 6pm. Prada and Versace open

from 12pm to 6pm for shopping.

84 | GU I DE

BICESTER VILLAGE

Located just an hour from central London, Bicester Village is surrounded by picturesque countryside and is close to the historic city of Oxford. Bicester Village plays host to more than 130 boutiques from leading luxury brands and up-and-

coming labels. The architectural design reflects its setting, with low-rise boutiques clustered around an open-air boulevard.Bicester Village, 50 Pingle Drive, Bicester, Oxfordshire OX26 6WD, +44 (0)1869 366266, bicestervillage.com

HOW TO GET THERE

Train Station Outlet Village

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SERVICES

• The suite of services offered includes the award-winning

Bicester Visitor Centre, valet parking, a children’s play area,

personal stylists, Hands-Free Shopping, a contemplation room,

a money-changing facility and instant tax refunds.

DON’T MISS…

SHOPPING DAY EXPERIENCE

This exclusive package includes:

• Return tickets on the Shopping Express luxury coach service

from central London to Bicester Village

• A VIP Card providing additional savings in participating

boutiques

• Hands-free Shopping service where boutique assistants pack

your purchases ready for collection later

• A two-course lunch or dinner at either Villandry Grand Café or

Carluccio’s

• £50 Bicester Village Gift Card to spend in the boutiques of your

choice

MUST-VISITS

HUNTER

• The Hunter brand, established in 1856, holds royal warrants

from both the Queen and the Duke of Edinburgh. Discover the

Hunter Original and Hunter Field collections in the Bicester

Village boutique.

BALENCIAGA

• French fashion house Balenciaga was founded by Spanish

designer Cristóbal Balenciaga who opened his first boutique in

San Sebastián, Spain, in 1918, and established his Paris

couture house on Avenue George V in August 1936.

MY PERFECT DAY

GLOBAL BLUE’S

MENSWEAR

REPORTER

RUAIRIDH

PRITCHARD

DESCRIBES

HOW HE WOULD SPEND

A PERFECT DAY AT

BICESTER VILLAGE

10am

Start your day at Mulberry,

a quintessentially British brand with

a reputation for balancing creativity

and modernity with the traditions of

leather craft and manufacture.

Mulberry inspires and delights

customers across the world.

11am

Be sure to stop at Tag

Heuer, purveyor of some of the

finest Swiss timepieces. The

boutique is the perfect place to

pick up some new wristwear.

1pm

Take a break for lunch at

Farmshop. This all-day dining

destination from Soho House & Co

has been created exclusively for

Bicester Village.

3pm

A modern American luxury

brand rooted in quality and

craftsmanship, Coach is

synonymous with the ease and

sophistication of New York style.

5pm

End your day at Anya

Hindmarch. The British designer’s

colourful and quirky handbags, as

practical as they are appealing,

have made her brand a hit among

the fashion set.

SHOP | 85P

HO

TO: (

PR

OFI

LE) D

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NE

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E

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WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD,SHOP TAX FREE

91

95

94

Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts.So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

Spend a minimum of £30 and save up to 14% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

[email protected]+421 232 111 111

Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.

When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Offices.

1. Shop

2. Claim

Refund Ofce details:

London Heathrow Terminal 1London Heathrow Terminal 2London Heathrow Terminal 3London Heathrow Terminal 4London Heathrow Terminal 5

London Gatwick North TerminalLondon Gatwick South Terminal

International Currency Exchange, 339 Oxford Street, London W1C 2JBInternational Currency Exchange, Westfeld London, Ariel Way, London W12 7GFNo 1 Currency, City of London Information Centre, St Paul’s Churchyard, London EC4M 8BX Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XLTopshop, 536-540 Oxford Street, London W1C 1LS

86

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РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД

42: Scent Especially For You

Парфюм От Кутюр

Фрэнсис Уозем рассказывает о лучших парфюмерах Лондона, которые предлагают эксклюзивные услуги для самых взыскательных клиентов

В 1957 году кутюрье Юбер де Живанши создал парфюм для своей музы Одри Хепберн. Деликатный, цветочный аромат L’Interdit («запрещенный») был разработан специально для актрисы и в течении многих лет выпускался исключительно для нее, пока в 1960-х она не дала свое согласие на включение его в массовый ассортимент.

L’Interdit доказывает, как эксклюзивный аромат может запечатлеть уникальный образ своего владельца. Обладание ароматом, который мог бы стать отражением нашей индивидуальности, вероятно, мечта любого покупателя. Особенно актуальной эта мечта кажется на фоне несметного количества похожих ароматов и крупных брендов, наводнивших рынок парфюмерных изделий. К счастью, выход всегда есть.

Новое поколение британских парфюмеров решило искать вдохновение в старинных книгах, датируемых 18 веком. В те далекие времена мастера парфюмеры использовали в качестве ингредиентов исключительно натуральные и высококачественные компоненты, а на создание одного аромата могло уйти до года. С развитием технологий этот трудоемкий процесс значительно ускорился, что позволяет современным парфюмерам вывести индустрию индивидуальных ароматов на новый уровень.

В прошлом году Лин Харрис открыла роскошный салон «Perfumer H» в престижном лондонском районе Marylebone.

Харрис, также основавшая популярный среди лондонцев парфюмерный дом Miller Harris, является единственным в Великобритании профессиональным дегустатором парфюмов, прошедшим классическую подготовку. Главный акцент в ее салоне ставится на создание индивидуальных ароматов, которые парфюмер надеется донести до широкой аудитории, а также на использование натуральных компонентов, которые, по ее словам, нужно «вернуть в индустрию».

В «Perfumer H» покупателям предлагают три уровня эксклюзивности. Сезонная серия Harris Seasonal Editions хоть и представляет собой готовую коллекцию, но все же сильно отличается от парфюмерии массового спроса. Серия Laboratory Editions подразумевает знакомство клиентов с уже существующими формулами, заказать которые можно будет мгновенно в лаборатории бутика. За £1500 композиция может стать полностью вашей и будет зарегистрирована на ваше имя. Услуга создания абсолютно индивидуального аромата начинается от £15 000.

Другой британский парфюмер Роха Дав также пропагандирует идею эксклюзивности. Дав, проработавший 20 лет в компании Guerlain, полагает, что чрезмерные маркетинговые стратегии уничтожают индустрию. Большие корпорации «поставили традиционную парфюмерию на колени», – говорит он. – Во всем виноват маркетинг». В 2001 году Дав открыл свой парфюмерный салон, где за £25 000 клиент получает не только собственный парфюм на заказ, но и набор лосьонов и ароматических свечей. Окончательная формула аромата «никогда не будет в широком доступе», – уверяет он. В отделе Roja Dove Haute Parfumerie, открытом в универмаге Harrods в 2004 году, посетители могут познакомится с готовой коллекцией и найти тот единственный

TRANSLATIONS

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48: Diamonds Are Forever

Бриллианты Навсегда

Благодаря нестандартному подходу Джессики Маккормак к дизайну ювелирных изделий ее украшения всегда доступны, экспрессивны и невероятно желанны, – говорит Бет Дрюс

Джессика Маккормак медленно, но уверенно меняет традиционные представления о шоппинге. Основу ее коллекций составляют оригинальные драгоценные украшения, сочетающие винтажный стиль и элементы современного дизайна. Маккормак создает то, что она сама называет «слепками времени». Под этим она подразумевает украшения, отражающие какой-либо знаменательный период или события из жизни ее клиентов, например, юбилей или день рождения. При этом ее подход отличается легкостью и непринужденностью, в чем можно убедится лично, придя в ее «дом» на Carlos Place. Маккормак называет свой салон домом, поскольку практически там живет, ну а отчасти потому, что ее клиенты должны ощущать себя не иначе, как дома. Именно такая концепция помогла ее бренду перейти из разряда обычного ювелирного салона в высоко индивидуальный, но в то же время доступный сервис уровня «bespoke».

«Мне было немного страшно заходить в дорогие магазины на Bond Street, – вспоминает Маккормак свои первые дни в Лондоне. – У нас же каждый может прийти и чувствовать себя свободно: здесь можно просто рассматривать книги или искать вдохновение. Однажды я работала в субботу и к нам зашли посетители и заметили, что я без обуви. Они удивились: „Это вы и есть та самая Джессика? Вы всегда сами стоите за прилавком?“».

Элегантный и своеобразный стиль Маккормак сочетается с безупречным дизайном. Перед тем, как открыть свою компанию, она долгое время работала в аукционном доме «Сотбис», где и зародилась ее страсть к драгоценностям. «Мне посчастливилось увидеть сокровища

аромат, который лучше всего отражает их внутренний мир. Не совсем на заказ, но все же здесь присутствует элемент «единственного и неповторимого». Кроме того Дав предлагает собственные ремейки культовых духов, например, Dior Diorama и Jean-Charles Brosseau Ombre Rose, расширяя тем самым выбор для покупателей, ищущих альтернативу своим фаворитам.

В октябре прошлого года парфюмер Аззи Глассер открыла салон эксклюзивного парфюма прямо в своей лондонской студии. Забронировать визит можно у консьержа в универмаге Harvey Nichols. Среди клиентов Глассер немало голливудских звезд, включая Джонни Деппа, Хелену Бонэм Картер и Джуда Лоу. Во время консультации, которая длится несколько часов, парфюмер пытается узнать как можно больше о клиенте, его любимых и нелюбимых запахах, а также особенности его индивидуального стиля. На основе собранных данных будет создан парфюм, «отражающий личность своего обладателя». Подобно композитору, представляющему в своем уме симфонию, парфюмер может создать в своем уме образ аромата. «Я могу увидеть аромат еще перед тем как он будет создан», – поясняет она. От результатов клиенты просто в восторге. «Она создала для меня духи, которые кажутся до боли родными, словно они были у меня всегда, разве что сейчас я могу хранить их во флаконе», – говорит Лоу.

Однако не только духи могут быть уникальными. Парфюмеры также позаботились об оригинальном дизайне флаконов. Например, флаконы Lyn Harris создаются вручную в Англии, что делает их настоящей находкой для коллекционеров. Флаконы Roja Dove создаются из хрусталя Baccarat, а позолоченные надписи наносятся вручную методом трафаретной печати.

Парфюм на заказ – это последний писк в индустрии роскоши, который так же дополняет образ, как роскошная сумка или сногсшибательные туфли. Кристиан Диор однажды заметил: «Парфюм может сказать о женщине больше, чем ее почерк». Так что, учтите это, когда в следующий раз будете выбирать ваш аромат.

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Российской империи, коллекции Cartier и Lalique 1920-х годов и многое другое. Учитывая, что я родилась в Новой Зеландии, ничего подобного я увидеть и не мечтала», – вспоминает она. В то время бриллианты оказали на нее неизгладимое впечатление, сподвигнув к сегодняшнему творчеству.

«Бриллианты играют ключевую роль в моей работе, и здесь очень важен правильный подход. Мое видение бриллиантов, пожалуй, сильно отличается от традиционного, – поясняет она. – Все словно помешаны на сертификатах, фактах и цифрах. Я же предпочитаю смотреть на бриллиант, как на произведение искусства, пытаясь понять красивый ли он, то ли это, что я ищу?».

Одной из визитных карточек Маккормак являются сережки Wing of Desire, вдохновленные крылатыми сандалиями греческого бога Гермеса. Центральным элементом этих сережек, выпускающихся только по заказу, стал бриллиант круглой огранки, окруженный такими же камнями меньшего размера. Их можно носить повернутыми вверх или вниз, в зависимости от настроения. Серьги-кольца Tattoo, украшенные 500 бриллиантами круглой огранки, напоминают татуировки племени Маори и отсылают к новозеландским корням дизайнера. Недавно Маккормак представила свою новую коллекцию Diamond Party Jacket,

вдохновленную массивными кольцами, популярными в 18 веке, которые служили своеобразной защитой для остальных колец. Diamond Party Jackets – это целый кластер бриллиантов, надевающийся поверх основного кольца.

Многие из своих изделий Маккормак создает из уже готовых украшений и камней, меняя дизайн на современный лад. Работа с семейными ценностями, например, обручальными кольцами, которые передаются из поколения в поколение, доставляет дизайнеру наибольшее удовлетворение. «Мне нравится то, что все старые украшения имеют свой особенный ореол, свою историю, это для меня очень важно, – говорит дизайнер. – У меня есть шанс вдохнуть в них новую жизнь».

Приступая к работе над очередным украшением дизайнер пытается выведать от клиента как можно больше информации о происхождении изделия: «Даже самые незначительные детали могут помочь составить полную картину. Важно все, есть ли у клиента дети или внуки или домашние животные, живет ли он в деревне или родился в какой-то определенной местности». Исходя из полученных сведений Маккормак сможет отразить в украшении специфические образы. Это могут быть драгоценные камни, напоминающие голубые глаза внука или бриллиантовое колье, оборотную сторону которого будет украшать гравировка географических мест, особо дорогих сердцу клиента.

По большому счету работа Маккормак подразумевает создание украшений с эмоциональным подтекстом, превосходящим по значимости материальную ценность самого предмета. Философия дизайнера выходит далеко за рамки традиционного ювелирного искусства, приучившего нас беречь самые дорогие вещи для особых случаев. «Я создаю украшения, которые призваны стать частью жизни покупателя, украшения которые можно и нужно носить, использовать, любить и ценить, – поясняет Маккормак, – С этими украшениями нужно прожить жизнь, а не доставать их из шкатулки раз в год».P

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54: Mayfair Marvels

Чудеса Mayfair

Новая волна флагманских бутиков на Mount Street обновила коллекции ряда модных дизайнеров. Харриет Куик составила гид по этому респектабельному району

Войдя во внутрь флагманского магазина Simone Rocha на Mount Street, посетители словно попадают в музей, наполненный скульптурами, мраморными креслами и даже беседками с манекенами, демонстрирующими весенне-летнюю коллекцию Rocha, вдохновение для которой дизайнер нашла в культуре Японии. Практически все, кому доводилось примерять ее оборчатые юбки из ткани для кимоно или нейлоновые туники, перевязанные поясом, непременно испытывали необъяснимую симпатию к удивительно женственному стилю дизайнера. Ее магазин расположен на одной из самых престижных улиц района Mayfair, в нескольких шагах от бутиков таких знаменитых брендов, как Loewe, Céline, Balenciaga и Marc Jacobs. Всего за пять лет с дебюта своей первой коллекции Симон Роша смогла открыть свой собственный магазин и добилась настоящего триумфа, при том, что на сегодняшний день ей даже не исполнилось и 30 лет.

Бутик дизайнера впервые открыл свои двери в сентябре прошлого года на пересечении Mount Street и South Audley Street по соседству с бутиками Кристофера Кейна, Роксанды Илинчич, Николаса Кирквуда и Эрдема Моралиоглу. Присутствие таких магазинов серьезно преобразило весь район. Каждый из бутиков глубоко индивидуален, прекрасно оформлен и отлично демонстрирует новое лицо лондонской роскоши. Идея открыть магазин в подобном районе могла лишь насмешить многих дизайнеров в начале их карьерного пути, когда им приходилось ютиться в студиях и складских помещениях восточного Лондона. Главной проблемой всегда были конечно же инвестиции. Однако благодаря независимому финансовому

успеху и, конечно, не без помощи крупных инвесторов модной индустрии, мы стали свидетелями появления на свет нового поколения модельеров.

Масштабы проводимых здесь дизайнерских и художественных коллабораций впечатлят любого. Кристофер Кейн совместно с архитектором минималистом Джоном Паусоном представили публике двухэтажный мраморный храм, чтобы продемонстрировать глубину дизайнерских коллекций. «Обычно, при входе в магазин первое, что бросается в глаза это интерьер, а вещи остаются на втором плане. Мне это изрядно надоело. Слишком много препятствий. Мне не нужно ничего, что будет смотреться старомодно через пять лет. Мне хочется видеть чистое, свободное пространство из красивых материалов», – говорит Кейн.

Роксанда Илинчич, убравшая недавно свою фамилию из названия бренда, пригласила своего давнего друга, архитектора Девида Аджайе для работы

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над интерьером бутика, дизайн которого будет сочетать оригинальные текстуры, сдержанную палитру и отделку в стиле металлик. «Мне хотелось создать дом для моих коллекций. В нем должно быть много контрастов. С первой минуты пребывания здесь начинаешь ощущать слегка индустриальную, но женственную и роскошную атмосферу, в то же время помещение внизу отличается сдержанностью, теплотой и домашним уютом. Некоторые посетители проводят у нас даже по несколько часов», – говорит Илинчич. В противоположность последнему магазин Кирквуда сверху донизу заставлен витринами с изящными туфлями. Каждая витрина воплощает не только одну из черт бренда, но и стиль дизайнера и его личную манеру шоппинга.

В то время как многие из этих брендов являются частью модных конгломератов, Эрдем Моралиоглу остается единственным владельцем своей компании. Это довольно необычно, однако благодаря поддержке обширной международной аудитории ему не сложно сохранять популярность. Если повернуть налево в конце Mount Street, то вашему взору откроется флагманский бутик дизайнера, который он спроектировал вместе со своим партнером, архитектором Филипом Джозефом. Интерьер особняка, вместившего бутик, украшают картины Девида Хокни и éана Кокто, декоративные кованые изделия и тропические растения, идеально дополняя романтические коллекции Моралиоглу. «Здесь есть чудесный викторианский сад папоротников, мебель, созданная мной и Филипом, и современные произведения искусства из салона на King’s Road», – рассказывает дизайнер о декоре. Как и сам магазин его коллекции, отличающиеся ручной работой и силуэтами ушедшей эпохи, отвечают всем требованиям времени.

Такой оригинальный подход делает шоппинг только интереснее и позволяет представить покупателям более широкий ассортимент и спектр услуг по сравнению с универмагами. К примеру, в бутике Kane вы сможете найти эксклюзивные брелки с

Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира.Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.

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86: When You Shop The World,

Shop Tax Free

Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free

хрустальными кисточками и новую линия кроссовок, в Roksanda вас ждет серия блузок сдержанных оттенков, а также купальники и вечерние платья, а Erdem предлагает посетителям дебютную коллекцию обуви. Тот факт, что бренды инвестируют в капитальное строительство говорит не только о креативности их создателей, но и о том, что их дизайнеры, еще недавно ничем не выделявшиеся из толпы, успешно прошли испытание временем.

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globalblue.com

美文翻译

伦敦顶级香氛制造商们为最挑剔的顾客提供量身

定制服务。Frances Wasem为您介绍几个不可不

知的名字

1957年,女装设计师Hubert de Givenchy为灵感

缪斯奥黛丽·赫本打造了一款香水。这款精致的花

香与粉香调香水名为“L’Interdit(禁忌)”,多年来

只为赫本一人调制。直到1960年代这位女演员允许

其公开发售。

L’Interdit完美展现了定制香氛如何捕捉使用

者的独特气质。拥有一款能完全代表自己的香水,必

是所有香氛爱好者的终极渴望。在如今品牌香水大

行其道,大品牌强势压倒一切,香水品种数不胜数的

现下,这似乎是个越来越难以实现的梦——但这一

现状不会持续太久了。

在伦敦,一批新的英国调香师正从历史中寻求

灵感;尤其是在18世纪,调香师都使用品质最上乘

的全天然成分。当时,香水的创作定制可能需要长达

一年的时间;今日,现代技术大大缩减了这一过程,

让调香师将香氛定制提升到新的境界。

去年,Lyn Harris在伦敦时尚的Marylebone

区开设了一间时髦的定制工作坊,Perfumer

H。Harris是深受伦敦名流爱戴的奢华香氛品牌

Miller Harris的创始人,也是英国唯一经过传统训

练的女“鼻子”。在这间新工作坊内,她强调个性化,

希望让更多受众了解定制香氛的价值,并且她补充

道,“将自然带回香氛的世界”。

Perfumer H系列提供三个档次的独家定制服

务。尽管Harris的Seasonal Editions系列是可以直

接购买的成品,但仍旧与大众市场相距甚远。她的

Laboratory Editions系列,则包含品牌从过去到现

在推出过的所有配方,供顾客在店内实验室中鉴赏

或立即购买。找到心之所属并花费1,500英镑就可以

拥有这种味道,该配方会以你的名字标注。而完整的

香氛定制服务则从15,000英镑起价。

另一间高举定制香氛旗帜的英国香水制造商

是Roja Dove。Dove在娇兰工作了20年,坚信过

度营销正在扼杀香水工业。大机构们“迫使传统香

水制造商对自己俯首称臣”,他说。 “一切都围绕

着市场营销。”在2001年,Dove推出了自己的定制

服务,费用约为25,000英镑,除香水外还包括身体

乳与蜡烛。最终香氛的独特配方将“永久保密”,他

表示。2004年Roja Dove Haute Parfumerie在哈

罗德百货开张,顾客们可在此体验现有的产品并找

到真正能表达自我的香氛——虽不是完全定制,但

42: Scent Especially For You

量身调制

仍有“找到命中注定”的感觉。Dove让一系列经典

香氛重获新生,例如Dior的Diorama,以及Jean-

Charles Brosseau的Ombre Rose,通过提供不太

一样的产品从而为顾客们拓宽选择面。

去年十月,调香师Azzi Glasser在伦敦工作室

内开设了一间定制工坊。顾客们可以通过Harvey

Nichols百货公司礼宾部预约服务。Glasser曾经

为好莱坞明星如Johnny Depp、Helena Bonham

Carter和Jude Law等人定制香氛。在持续数小时的

咨询服务中,Glasser会深入了解顾客的个性特征,

对气味的好恶以及个人风格,力图创造出可以“反映

顾客独有基因”的香氛。与众不同的是,她在工作中

还使用视觉。“在开始创造之前,我就能感知这款香

氛将会闻起来怎样、看上去怎样,”她解释道。顾客

们对定制成果反应热烈。 “她为我创作了一款感觉

上早就属于我的味道——这就是我,只是从前我未

曾拥有过这么一瓶而已,”Jude Law表示。

并非只有香水可以定制。这些调香师们将定制

体验衍伸到用来封装香水的容器上。Lyn Harri的

香水瓶是在英国手工吹制的,独一无二且具收藏价

值。Roja Dove的香水都装在Baccarat水晶器皿中,

瓶身上的黄金刻字是手工丝网印刷的。

在高端奢侈品领域,拥有一款度身定制的香氛

是最新热潮,其对于整体造型的重要程度等同于一

枚完美手袋,或是一双合适鞋履。Christian Dior曾

经说过,“女人的香水能比她的笔迹透露更多。”所以

请务必确保,你通过香氛展现在全世界面前的,是

最真实的自我。

PH

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93

Jessica McCormack将别出心裁的反传统设计手法

运用到高端珠宝领域,使她推出的钻石珠宝系列平

易、感性、极具魅力,Beth Druce报道

Jessica McCormack正悄然改变着人们的珠宝选

购方式。她创建了别具一格的高级珠宝系列:将传

统历史文化与新潮摩登细节相融合的仿古风格单

品。McCormack热衷于进行自诩为“时间快照”的

创作—— 一件能捕捉顾客生命中最重要部分的单

品,或许是一次纪念日或生日——而她的手法有着

令人耳目一新的轻快,她在位于Carlos Place的“

家”中解释道。McCormack 称其为“家”部分是

因为她自己就住在这里,同时也因为这里拥有让顾

客宾至如归的环境,对她的品牌从传统高级珠宝零

售模式进化为高度个性化、具有亲和力的服务模式

至关重要。

McCormack表示在自己初到伦敦时,“太害怕

去邦德街的商店了”。而她自己的工作坊却毫无距离

感。“你可以随意进入,看看书,寻找灵感,有个周六

我在工作,有人走进来看到我没穿鞋子。他们问:‘

你是Jessica吗?你总是在店里工作吗?’”

McCormack在高级珠宝领域使用的新潮、非

传统的手法,是以严格的设计训练为根基的。在成

立自己的公司以前,她曾任职于苏富比拍卖行,在那

里发现了自己对高端珠宝的热爱。“我见过俄罗斯皇

冠上的明珠,1920年代的卡地亚,Lalique的作品,

各种不可思议的珠宝。来自新西兰的我,从没见过类

似的东西!”她回忆道。正是在那时她对钻石留下了

深刻印象,而钻石亦勾勒出她今日的作品。

“钻石对我现下的创作至关重要,但我挑选钻

石、看待钻石的方法,是与旁人非常不同的,”她解释

道。“每个人都执着于鉴定书与鉴定数据,追求到极

致。但我看待钻石就像看待艺术品,只用我的眼睛。

我想的是,“这美吗?是我想追求的东西吗?”

McCormack的招牌款式包括她的Wing of

Desire耳环,灵感来自希腊信使神Hermès的带

翅膀凉鞋。这款按需定制的作品,以一枚圆形明

亮切割钻石为主石,并在周边镶嵌多枚钻石,佩戴

时可以将翅膀弧线朝上或朝下,完全取决于佩戴

者的心情。Tattoo环形耳环则镶嵌有500枚明亮

切割密钉碎钻,并模仿毛利人的刺青图案,体现了

McCormack通过珠宝讲故事的超凡能力,也是对

设计师新西兰血统的致敬。

McCormack最近推出了Diamond Party

Jacket系列,灵感来自于18世纪流行的守护戒指,

其初始功能是用来防止其他戒指滑落。Diamond

Party Jacket系列宛若钻石组成的天使光环,围绕着

48: Diamonds Are Forever

钻石恒久远

同时佩戴的其他指环。

McCormack的许多创作都涉及改造成品珠宝

或宝石,将其变得更适合日常佩戴。家传珠宝,例如

代代相传的订婚戒指,是她最喜欢承接的业务,为这

些传统珠宝注入新生的机遇。“我喜欢这些珠宝背

后的旧时代风韵,因为那就是珠宝感性的一面,是非

常重要的,”设计师表示。“创造的作品是有层次和诉

说着故事的。”

这些层次和故事通过“交流并体察人们的内心”

打造而成,饱含着McCormack的设计哲学。“在人

们说话的时候,你可以观察到一些他们自己从未曾

留意的小细节;无论是他们有子女或孙辈或宠物,或

是他们生活在乡村还是对哪个地方怀有情结。”设

计成果可能是一枚被钻石围绕的、让佩戴者想起子

女蓝眼睛的宝石,或是一枚底部蚀刻着某人珍视的

重要地理坐标的钻石吊坠。

归根结底,McCormack的珠宝创作是为了建

立超越物质本身价值的情感纽带——以及对喜悦

及亲和力的共鸣。这与传统高级珠宝的理念大相

径庭——如高价值珠宝只能在特殊场合佩戴,或

总是让人感觉不自在。“我创造的单品是可以与人

们终生相伴的;佩戴它、使用它、喜爱它、欣赏它,”

McCormac解释道。“你会想要让它一辈子跟随你,

而不是每年只佩带一次而已。”

蒙特街涌现的一波新旗舰店,展示着最为炙手可热

的设计师们的作品,Harriet Quick带您游走于这片

奢华购物必访之地

步入Simone Rocha位于蒙特街(Mount Street)

的旗舰店,你会发现自己置身于一片色调柔和的空

间内,徜徉于雕塑、巨型大理石长凳、甚至凉亭之

间,里面的模特人台展示着Rocha受日本风格启发

的春夏季系列。多数试穿过她的微皱和服面料荷叶

边短裙,或束腰科技感尼龙外套的女性,都会瞬间

54: Mayfair Marvels

梅菲尔奇观

PH

OT

OS

: JA

SP

ER

‘YO

GI’

GO

UG

H

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94

globalblue.com

当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时,

环球蓝联(Global Blue)购物退税服务(Tax Free

Shopping)为您节约购物开销。

每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联(Global

Blue)获得购物退税,您怎能错过?您要做的只

是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联

(Global Blue)服务,然后遵循我们简单的退税

过程:

1. 消费购物

无论您在哪里消费,请索要环球蓝联退税表格

(Global Blue Tax Free Form),并记得保存小

票。

2. 申请退税

当您准备回家时,您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台

请他们在您的退税表格上盖章,然后再到环球蓝联

的退税点领取您的退税款。

联系方式:

[email protected]

+421 232 111 111

最低消费 £30即可节约高达购买价格14%的税。请

注意:最终退款将包含增值税总额,但是要扣除管

理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取

现金退税手续费。

86: When You Shop The World,

Shop Tax Free

畅购全球,尊享退税

与廓形的留恋,融入人们今日的欲求之中。”

这些空间为购物重新带来喜悦,并提供比百货

公司更为丰富的产品陈列、设计与服务,包括独家产

品系列。不要错过Kane的水晶流苏钥匙圈和新近

推出的运动鞋,Roksanda慵懒的女式衬衫、泳装和

Ilincic的招牌式礼服,以及Erdem首次推出的鞋履

系列。这些品牌纷纷投资建造独一无二的实体店空

间,不仅力证其背后团队的创意实力,也是这些不久

前还被视为新人的设计师们将长盛不衰的体现。

被强大的甜蜜女性气息所折服。这间精品店傲立于

梅菲尔区(Mayfair)最负盛名的街道之一上,距离

Loewe、Céline、 Balenciaga与Marc Jacobs等超

级大牌的店铺只有咫尺之遥。Rocha到2016年九月

将满30岁,仅仅五年前她才推出自己的首个系列:然

而她已经在蒙特街拥有一席之地的事实,俨然宣告

着自己的成功。

这间店于去年九月开幕,在蒙特街以及相交

的南奥德利街(South Audley Street)上,在此

之前设立旗舰店的还包括Christopher Kane、

Roksanda Ilincic、 Nicholas Kirkwood与

Erdem Moralıoğlu等人,皆为三十多岁的设计师。

这些店铺的出现正在改变着这片区域。每间店都是

高度个性化的,完美展现着伦敦奢华新风貌的方方

面面。在这样的街区中拥有一间精品店,对这些起家

于伦敦东区仓库与工作间的设计师而言,曾是不可

想象的白日梦。其中所需资金非常巨大。然而,靠着

时尚界最大投资者们的助力,加上在独立财务运作

的成功,新一代设计师开始了商业冒险。

这些由建筑与艺术跨界塑造出的空间令人印象

深刻。Christopher Kane与极简主义建筑师John

Pawson合作,建造起两层楼的大理石庙宇,用以展

示设计师激动人心作品。“除了衣服我不想看到其他

任何东西。吊灯!啊!沙发!啊!这么多障碍物。我不

想要任何会在五年内过时的东西。我想要一个以美

妙材质打造的超然、澄净的空间,”Kane表示。

最近从同名品牌上撤下姓氏的Roksanda

Ilincic,则联合朋友、建筑师David Adjaye,以各种

具有迷惑性的素材、微妙的色调搭配与金属饰面,

打造出让人过目难忘的店铺。“我想为自己的作品找

个家。这里充满对比。从进门的一刹那就会感觉到

工业感、女性气息与奢华氛围,楼下则是更为内敛、

温暖、温馨的空间。我们确实有顾客一待就是好几个

小时,”Ilincic表示。与其形成对比,Kirkwood的店

铺内整面墙都陈列着他那些雕塑版完美的俏皮高跟

鞋。每个空间的设计不只是品牌、设计师的宣言,同

样代表着他们希望为顾客带来何种购物体验。

虽然许多品牌都有时尚巨头撑腰,但Erdem

Moralıoğlu却完全控制着自己的公司。这是非同寻

常的,然而,凭借可观的国际客户群体支持,他同样

获得了巨大的成功。在蒙特街的尽头向左直转,你

会见到这间外观温雅的设计师旗舰店,由他和建筑

师伙伴Philip Joseph共同打造。重新复刻的David

Hockney与Jean Cocteau的铁艺、艺术作品及热带

植物,共同打造出摩登居家的氛围,完美展现着他

诗意、浪漫的设计。“店内有一个超棒的维多利亚风

格的蕨类植物园,有我与Philip共同设计的家具,

还有来自King’s Road上Sigmar的20世纪摩登内

饰。”Moralıoğlu这样介绍店内装饰。如同这间店

铺,他的作品同样巧妙地将对于过去年代的手工艺 PH

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تقّدم لك غلوبل بلو Global Blue خدمة التسّوق من دون دفع الضيبة Tax Free لتّدخر الال لدى تسّوقك ف أكث من

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بغلوبل بلو Global Blue وتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالت.

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عل القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم إداري. ف بعض الطارات، يُفرض رسم خدمة نقدي عل كل طلب استداد ضيبة ف حال رغبت

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Shop Tax Free: 86

عندما تتسّوق حول العال، تسّوق من دون دفع الضيبة

Street وستكتشف الحيط النيق لتجر الصمم الرئيس، الذي

قام بتصميمه مع شيكه الهندس Philip Joseph. تساهم David البتكارات الرّممة الصنوعة من الحديد وأعمل

Hockney و Jean Cocteauالفنيّة ورسوم النباتات ف خلق

أجواء منزٍل ريفّي يعرض تصاميمه الشاعرية الرومنسية بامتياز. يقول Moralıoğluعن الديكور: “يشتمل التجر عل حديقة

فكتورية رائعة وأثاث صّممته مع Philip وقطع حديثة من القرن العشين من Sigmar ف King’s Road.” عل غرار التجر،

تُزاوج إبداعاته بباعة رغبات اليوم بحرٍف يدويّة وتصاميم من حقبة ماضية.

تعيد هذه ال”واء البهجة إل التسوق وتظهر مجموعة من النتجات والتصاميم والخدمات أكث من أّي متجر آخر،

با ف ذلك الخطوط الحصيّة. اكتشف لدى Kane حّملت مفاتيح بّشابات بلّوريّة وخطا ”ديداً للحذية الرياضيّة، ولدى

Ilincic قمصاناً منسدلة وملبس سباحة وتصاميم Roksanda

الشهية للمناسبات، ولدى Erdem وخطّاً ”ديداً للحذية. وتجدر الشارة إل أّن استثمر هذه العلمات التجارية ف مساحاٍت فريدة

من نوعها ليس دليلً عل إبداع أصحابها فحسب، بل أيضاً عل استمراريّة هؤلء الصّممي الذين كانوا ُ”ُدداً منذ فتة ليست

بالبعيدة.

وبالتصميم الجميل ويُبز الو”ه التعّددة لشكل التف الجديد ف لندن. عندما بدأ هؤلء الصّممون حياتهم الهنيّة ف مشاغل

واستوديوهات شق لندن، كانت فكرة امتلك متجر ف هكذا منطقة مجرّد أحلم صعبة النال إذ تتطلّب استثمرات ضخمة.

إل أنّه بفضل دعم أكب الستثمرين ف قطاع الزياء والنجاح الال الستقل، تّكن هذا الجيل من الصممي من تحقيق الحلم.

ز هذه الساحات بشاكات هندسيّة وفنيّة باهرة. تعاون تتميّJohn مع الهندس العمري التبسيطي Christopher Kane

Pawson لتنفيذ معبده الرخامي الؤلّف من طابقي ليعرض

تصاميمه الثية بوضوح. يقول Kane: “سئمت النظر إل كّلالشياء باستثناء اللبس. ثريّا! أريكة! الكثي من العوائق. ل أريد

أي شء سيبدو بالياً بعد خمس سنوات. أردت مساحًة نظيفة مبتكرة من مواٍد ”ميلة.

أّما Roksanda Ilincic، التي حذفت مؤّخرا شهرتها من علمتها التجارية التي تحمل اسمها، فلجأت إل صديقها ز الهندس David Adjay للعمل عل متجرها الرائع الميّ

بواٍد وألواٍن ناعمة وتفاصيل معدنيّة. تقول Ilincic: “أردت منزلً للبس. يشتمل التجر عل تناقضات كثية؛ منذ أن تطأ عتبته، تشعر بالطابع الصناعي النثوي الفاخر وثّة ف الطابق

السفل مساحة أكث خصوصيّة ودفئًا وراحة. يبقى بعض زبائننا لساعات”. ف القابل، يعرض متجر Kirkwood أحذيته الغريبة

من الرض إل السقف. بالتال،ل يعّب كّل متجر عن العلمات التجاريّة فحسب، بل أيضاً عن مصّمميها والطريقة التي يحبّون

التسّوق فيها. ف حي تقف دور أزياء عظيمة وراء الكثي من هذه العلمات التجارية، يتلك Erdem Moralıoğlu شكته

بالكامل. إنّه أمر غي مألوف، لكن بدعم من زبائنه الكثيين حول Mount العال، حّقق نجاحاً باهراً. اتّجه إل أقص اليسار ف نهاية

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globalblue.com

Diamonds Are Forever :48

كنٌز أبدي

بفضل مقاربة Jessica McCormack العفويّة إل الجوهرات الراقية، باتت تصاميمها الرتكزة عل الاس معقولة

Beth Druce ومؤثّرة ومرغوبة بشّدة - تقرير

تغّي Jessica McCormack بهدوء طريقة شاء الجوهرات. تبتكر مجوهرات راقية وتضفي لستها الخاّصة: قطع مستوحاة من تصاميم أثرية تدمج تراث العال القديم مع أسلوب حديث

ومبتكر. تحّب McCormack ابتكار ما تصفه بـ”لقطة العمر”- قطع تصّور جزءاً مهمً من حياة زبون، ربا ذكرى سنوية أو ولدة Carlos ومقاربتها مريحة وممتعة، كم تشح ف منزلها ف –Place. تسميه منزلها لنه منزلها الفعل وكذلك لحرصها عل

وجود مكان يشعر فيه زبائنها وكأنهم ف النزل، المر الذي كان له الدور الساس ف تطّور علمتها بعيداً عن السلوب التقليدي لبيع الجوهرات الفاخرة نحو خدمة تصميم شخصيّة بحسب الطلب.تقول McCormack عن أيّامها الول ف لندن: “كنت

أخش الذهاب إل أي من متاجر Bond Street”. ليس مشغلها بالخيف عل الطلق. “–كنك الجيء إل هنا وقضاء الوقت

وتصفح الكتب والستلهام. كنت أعمل ذات سبت ودخل زبائن فيم كنت حافية القدمي فسألو”: هل أنت Jessica وهل

تعملي دوماً هنا شخصيّاً؟”يتافق أسلوب McCormack الجديد العفوي إل عال الجوهرات الفاخرة مع مقاربة جديّة إل التصميم. قبل تأسيس

شكتها، عملت ف دار الزادات Sotheby حيث اكتشفت شغفها بالجوهرات الثمينة. وتروي: “رأيت جواهر التيجان

الروسية وابتكارات Cartier من العشينات وLalique وأروع الجوهرات. ول أكن قد رأيت شيئاً ممثلً ف حيات كو” من نيوزيلندا.” تلك كانت الرّة الول التي أثّر فيها الاس ومّذاك ز عملها بهذه الحجار الكر–ة. وتضيف: “الاس مهٌم جداً يتميّ

ز عن غيي بطريقة اختياري بالنسبة إل ما أقوم به الن لكن أتيّالاس ونظرت إليه. الجميع مهووس بالشهادات والحقائق والرقام

وبتويج الاس إل أقص درجة. أّما أنا، فأنظر إل الاس وكأنني أنظر إل قطعة فنيّة وأفكر إن كانت جميلة وإن كنت أرغب بها.”

Wing ’الميزة أقرا McCormack تشمل تصاميمHermès الستوحاة من مراسل آلهة الغريق of Desire

بصندله الجّنح. تُصنع القرا’ بحسب الطلب وتتمتّع بحجر ماٍسأساس ذي قطعٍ برّاق وبعض الحجار المثلة الحيطة، ويوضع

بتصويب الجناحي ال العل أو السفل، حسب مزاج الشخص. أّما أقرا’ Tattoo الدائريّة، فمصنوعة من 500 قطعة من الاس

ذي القطع البّاق الرصوف وتشبه أوشام الاوري، وهي مثال عل قدرة McCormack عل رواية القصص من خلل الجوهرات،

وإشارة إل جذورها النيوزيلندية.Diamond مؤخراً عن مجموعة McCormack كشفت

Party Jacket، الستوحاة من الخاتم الحارس الذي شاع ف القرن الـ18، وكان يوضع لحمية الخواتم الخرى ومنعها من

النزلق. مجوعة Diamond Party Jackets هي عبارة عن هالت من الاس ملتّفة حول أي خاتم آخر.

تتضمن الكثي من إبداعات McCormack إعادة صياغة

أحجار كر–ة أو تحويل قطع موجودة أصلً إل ابتكارات أكث عمليّة. فالقطع التوارثة ضمن العائلة الواحدة، مثل خواتم

الخطوبة التي تنتقل عب الجيال، هي العمل الحّب إل قلبها، إذ تنحها الفرصة لتبعث حياة جديدة ف قطع تراثيّة. تقول الصممة:

“ أحب ذلك الحساس القديم الذي تحمله، لّن هذا الجانب العاطفي هو الهم عن حّق. فلهذه القطع طبقات وقصص ترويها”.

تُبتكر تلك الطبقات والقصص من خلل “محادثات مع الشخص وخلصات من حديثه”، وهو تبادل يجسد فلسفة

McCormack. “تلفت انتباهي أمور بسيطة ل يدركون حتّى

أنهم يقولونها: تستنتج إن كان لديهم أطفال أو أحفاد أو حيوانات أو كانوا يعيشون ف الريف أو يشعرون بالنتمء إل مكان ما”.

قد تكون النتيجة ماسًة بجانب أحجاٍر تُذكّر بعينيي زرقاوين لبن الزبون أو قلدة من الاس محفورة من السفل بالحداثيات

الجغرافية لماكن عزيزة عل قلبه.تتمثّل أعمل McCormack بابتكار مجوهرات ذات روابط عاطفيّة تتجاوز القيمة الادية للقطعة – يرافقها شعوٌر

بالرح والوئام. هذا السلوب بعيد كّل البعد عن الفاهيم التقليدية لصناعة الجوهرات الراقية؛ كالشعور بوجوب الحتفاظ بالقطع

الثمينة للمناسبات الخاصة، أو التعامل معها بإجلٍل مفر’. تشح McCormack قائلة: “ أبتكر قطعاً –كن الناس أن يعيشوا

معها طوال حياتهم؛ يرتدونها، يستخدمونها، يحبونها، يقّدرونها. ل بّد للمجوهرات أن تعيش معك وليس أن تكون مجرد شء ترتديه

مرّة واحدة ف السنة.”

Mayfair Marvels :54

Mayfair روائع

Mount تعرض موجة من التاجر الرئيسية الجديدة ف منطقةHarriet أعمل بعض الصممي الذائعي الصيت- تقوم Street

Quick بجولة ف هذه النطقة الفاخرة الجديرة بالزيارة

Mount الرئيس ف Simone Rocha ما إن تدخل متجرStreet، حتّى تجد نفسك تجول ف مساحة هادئة اللوان تتأّمل النحوتات والقاعد الرخامية العملقة وحتى الكشاك التي تحوي عارضات ترتدين مجموعة Rocha الستوحاة من اليابان للربيع/الصيف. تشعر معظم النساء اللوات يجّربن التنورة الصنوعة من

نسيج الكيمونو الجّعد أو ستة النايلون ذات العقدة العريضة بانجذاب فوري إل قواعد النوثة الثائرة التي تفرضها العلمة. يقع التجر بفخر ف أحد أرقى شوارع Mayfair، عل مرمى حجر من

Célineو Loewe محلت علمات تجاريّة عظيمة مثلوBalenciaga وMarc Jacobs. وبالرغم من أّن Rocha ما

زالت ف الـ 29 من العمر، قّدمت مجموعتها الول منذ خمس سنوات. ومجرّد وجودها الفعل ف Mount Street انتصار

بحّد ذاته.افتتح التجر ف أيلول/سبتمب الاض عقب افتتاح

South وشارع Mount Street متاجر رئيسيّة أخرى فChristopher Kane التقاطع للمصّممي Audley

Erdemو Nicholas Kirkwoodو Moralıoğlu، وكلّهم ف العقد الثالث من العمر. يحّول

وجود هذه الحلت هويّة النطقة. يتمتّع كل متجر بالفرديّة

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Scent Especially For You :42

عطٌر خاص بك

ترجمة باللغة العربيّة

تقّدم أبرز دور العطور ف لندن خدمة تركيب عطور بحسب طلب زين. تشي Frances Wasem إل السمء الجديرة زبائنها الميّ

بالذكر

ابتكر الصّمم Hubert de Givenchy سنة 1957عطراًL’Interdit وقد ُركّب عطر .Audrey Hepburn للهمته

)أي الحرّم( الناعم الغني برائحة الزهور لـ Hepburn حصيّاً، وكان يُصنع لها وحدها لعّدة سنوات. إل أن سمحت المثّلة ف

الستّينات أن يُتاح للجميع.يثبت L’Interdit قدرة العطر الركّب بحسب الطلب

عل التعبي عن روحيّة واضعه الفريدة. يرغب كّل شخص بالطبع بامتلك عطر يعّب عنه. وف زمن العطور التجاريّة والعلمات

الكبى والخيارات التعّددة، بدا ذلك حلمً بعيد النال، لكن سعان ما تحّقق.

تلجأ سللة جديدة من دور العطور البيطانية ف لندن ال كتب التاريخ بحثًا عن اللهام، وبالتحديد إل القرن الـ 18، عندما

استخدم العطّارون مكّونات طبيعيّة بالكامل من أجود النواع. وكان ابتكار العطور بحسب الطلب ف ذلك الوقت يستغرق حوال السنة، لكن بفضل التكنولوجيا الحديثة اليوم، باتت العمليّة أسهل

وفُتحت آفاٌق جديدة للعطّارين ف هذا الجال.ً افتتحت Lyn Harris السنة الاضية محتفاً أنيقا

للعطور الركّبة بحسب الطلب Perfumer H، ف منطقة ،Harris العصية ف لندن. وجديٌر بالذكر أّن Marylebone

Miller مؤسسة دار العطور الفاخر الحّب إل قلب اللّندنيّيHarris، هي النف النثوي الوحيد التدرّب كلسيكيّاً عل اختبار

العطور ف الملكة التحدة. تركّز ف محتفها الجديد عل الفرد، آملًة توفي عطور مركّبة بحسب الطلب لجمهوٍر أكب و”إعادة

الواد الطبيعيّة إل عال صناعة العطور”، عل حّد قولها.تقدم مجموعة Perfumer H ثلثة مستويات من

الحصيّة. عطور Seasonal Editions جاهزة لكن بعيدة كّلLaboratory Editions البعد عن العطور التجاريّة، وعطور

هي عبارة عن تركيبات قدية وجديدة يجّربها الزبائن ف مختب الدار ويطلبونها عل الفور. يكنك أن تجد عطراً يعجبك

وتصبح التكيبة ملكك ومسّجلة حصيّاً باسمك لقاء 1500 جنيه استليني. أّما العطور الركّبة بحسب الطلب، فتبدأ من 1500

جنيه استليني.ثّة دار عطور بريطا” آخر يركّب عطوراً بحسب الطلب

وهو Roja Dove. عمل Dove ف Guerlain لعشين سنة ويعتقد أّن الفرا’ ف تسويق العطور يدّمر القطاع. يقول ف هذا الصدد: “أضعفت الشكات الكبى صناعة العطور الكلسيكية من خلل التسويق”. قّدم Dove سنة 2001 خدمة تركيب العطور

بحسب الطلب لقاء ما يقارب 25000 جنيه استليني وتشمل مرطّباًت للجسم وشموعاً وعطوراً. ويشي إل أنّه ل يُكشف أبداًRoja Dove Haute عن تركيبة العطر الخاص النهائية. أّما فParfumerie الذي افتُتح ف متجر Harrods سنة 2004،

فيجري تعريف الزبون بالعطور العروضة ليعث عل العطر الذي ته بصدق- لذا ليست خدمة تركيب عطور بحسب يعّب عن شخصيّالطلب بل إيجاد “العطر الناسب”. كم أعاد Dove تقديم عطوٍر

Ombre Rose و Dior من Diorama كلسيكيّة مثلمن Jean-Charles Brosseau، موّسعاً دائرة الخيارات أمام

الزبائن الباحثي عن شء مختلف.افتتحت العطّارة العاصة Azzi Glasser محتفاً لتكيب

العطور بحسب الطلب ف مشغلها ف لندن ف تشين الّول/أوكتوبر الفائت. تُحجز الواعيد عب خدمة الستقبال ف متجر

Harvey Nichols. وقد ابتكرت Glasser عطوًرا بحسب

Helena و Johnny Depp الطلب لشاهي هوليوود مثلBonham Carter و Jude Law. ف خلل استشارة مطّولة،

تأخذ Glasser بعي العتبار شخصيّة الزبون والروائح التي يحبها ويكرهها وأسلوبه الشخص لتكّب عطراً “يعكس جيناته”.

والغريب أنّها تعمل بصيّاً. تشح قائلة: “يكنني أن أتصّور رائحة العطر وشكله قبل أن أبدأ بتكيبه”. وتجد الزبائن متحّمسي

للنتائج. يقول Law: “ابتكرت ل عطرًا أشعر أنّني لطالا وضعته، إنّه ذات، لكن ل يكن ف زجاجة من قبل”.

ليست العطور وحدها الفريدة من نوعها. توّسع دور العطور تجربة تركيب العطور بحسب الطلب لتشمل الزجاجات التي

تحوي العطور. تُنفخ زجاجات Lyn Harris يدويّاً ف إنجلتا، فتستحيل فريدة من نوعها وجاذبة لهواة جمع القوارير. وتُقّدم

عطور Roja Dove ف زجاجات بلّورية من Baccarat، مزخرفة بحروٍف ذهبيّة عن طريق الطباعة الحريريّة اليدويّة.

العطور الركّبة بحسب الطلب هي الصيحة الحدث ف مجال التف الحقيقي، إذ باتت تكّمل أي مظهر تاماً كحقيبة يٍد مثالية وحذاٍء مناسب. قال Christian Dior ذات مرّة: “يعّب عطر

الرأة عنها أكث من خّط يدها.”لذا، احرص أن تقّدم للعال من خلل عطرك الشخص الذي يثّلك عن حق.”

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SOUVENIR

98 | PRODUC TS

power of leopard print. This beautiful handbag,destined to become a timeless classic, combines the roominess of a daytime accessory with the high-octane glamour of a party bag. The neon pink buckles lend it a seasonally appropriate shot of colour, guaranteed to add additional cheer to a summer day in London. thHill & Friends handbag, £1,795, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7730 1234, hillandfriends.com

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FRIENDS IN HIGH PLACES

Hill & Friends is a new British accessories brand that specialises in luxury leather handbags. The company was founded by Emma Hill and Georgia Fendley in 2015 and its collection, made by hand in Somerset in the south-west of England, displays the pair’s signature wit and love of pattern. For spring/summer 2016, Hill & Friends has embraced the

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 86

Page 99: SHOP London Lux SS16
Page 100: SHOP London Lux SS16