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P A C I F I C
O C E A N
GULF OF CALIFORNIA(SEA OF CORTEZ)
GULF OF CALIFORNIA(SEA OF CORTEZ)
Laguna Salada
Yubay
San Luis
El R
osario
San Rafael
Las Lie
bres
San Pedro
La Bocana
Comond´u
Las Calabazas
Colorado
Alt
ar
Sa
n J
ose
Bahía Kino
Bahía Coyote
Bahía Blanco
BahíaAlmejas
Bahía Colonet
BahíaLa Choya
Bahía Adair
Boca la Baja
Bahía Tortugas
BahíaBallenas
Bahía Descanso
Bahía San Lucas
BahíaMagdalena
Bahía deLa Paz
Bahía Santa In´es
Bahía San Nicol´as
Bahía San Juanico
Bahía San Carlos
Bahía San Rafael
Bahía Santa María
Ensenadade Muertos
Bahía Los Frailes
Bahía Rosario
Bahía San Jorge
Bahía Santa Ana
BahíaSan Hip´olito
BahíaSan Crist´obal
Bahía Santa Rosaliíta
Bahía San Felipe
Laguna Perceb´u
Bahía San Juanico
Boca La Soledad
Bahía delos Angeles
BahíaLas Animas
BahíaTodos Santos
BahíaSan Jos´edel Cabo
BahíaSebasti´an Vizcaíno
Laguna
San
Ignacio
Salton Sea
Bahía San Juan Bautista
Bahía Santa María
Canal Cerralvo
Bahía la Ventana
Bahía Concepci´on
Canal de Ballenas
Canal Salsipuedes
(Whales Channel)
Laguna Ojo de Liebre
(Scammon’s Lagoon)
EL PINACATE Y
GRAN DESIERTO DE ALTAR
BIOSPHERE RESERVE
1857 CONSTITUTIONNATIONAL PARK
BAHÍA DE
LORETO
NATIONAL
PARK
SIERRA LA LAGUNA
BIOSPHERE
RESERVE
CABO SAN LUCASFLORA AND FAUNAPROTECTION AREA
ISLAS DEL GOLFO DE CALIFORNIA
FLORA AND FAUNA PROTECTION AREA
ISLAS DEL GOLFODE CALIFORNIAFLORA AND FAUNAPROTECTION AREA
ISLAS DEL GOLFODE CALIFORNIAFLORA AND FAUNAPROTECTION AREA
ARCHIPÍELAGO DE
SAN LORENZO
NATIONAL PARK
ARCHIPÍELAGO DEESPÍRITU SANTONATIONAL PARK
E L V I Z C A Í N O B I O S P H E R E R E S E R V E
VALLE DE
LOS CIRIOS
FLORA AND FAUNA
PROTECTION
AREA
ISLA SAN PEDRO MARTIR
BIOSPHERE RESERVE
A L TA
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Guad
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Valle
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Pe n í n s u l a d e
V i z c a í n o
Llanosde Hiray
3957 ft1206 m
6447 ft1965 m
5446 ft1660 m
5938 ft1810 m
5184 ft1580 m
3018 ft920 m
3937 ft1200 m
6365 ft1940 m
5512 ft1680 m
6824 ft2080 m
10157 ft3096 m
4199 ft1280 m
Picacho del Diablo(Devil’s Peak)
Highest point inBaja California
Cerro la Sandia
Cerro Dos Picachos
El Pinacate(volcano)
Volc´an Las Tres Vírgenes
Cerro Gordo
Isla Lobos
Isla San Luis
Isla Mejia
Isla Natividad
IslasSan Benito
Isla Partida
EspírituSanto I.
Isla San Francisco
Isla Las Animas
IslaSan Diego
Isla Tortuga
Isla Partida
Isla Danzante
IslaCoronado
Roca Consag
Isla MontagueIsla Pelícano
Isla el Muerto
Isla Encantada
Isla Magdalena
Isla Creciente
Isla Monserrat
Isla TurnerIsla San Esteban
Isla San Martín
IslaSanta Cruz
Isla San Ildefonso
Isla Santa In´es
Isla San Luis Gonzaga
Isla San Pedro Nolasco
Isla Todos Santos
Isla San Pedro M´artir
Isla Magdalena
Isla Santa Margarita
Isla San Jos´e
Isla Cerralvo
Isla Tibur´on(Shark I.)
Isla San Lorenzo
Isla Angelde la Guarda(Guardian Angel I.)
Punta Monta˜na
Cabo Falso
Punta Baja
Punta Tosca
Punta Redonda
Punta Norte
Punta Lobos
Punta Gorda
Punta Arena
Bahía SanLuis Gonzaga
Punta Bufeo
Punta Coyote
Punta Dispensa
Punta Canoas
Punta Blanco
Punta Mangles
Punta Mercenarios
Punta Chivato
Punta Ballena
Punta Calabozo
Punta San Telmo
Punta San Jos´e
Punta Rosarito
Punta Santa Rosaliíta
Punta María
Punta Descanso
Cabo San L´azaro
Cabo Colonet
Punta Santa Ana
Punta Pescadero
Punta Concepci´on
Cabo San Quintín
Punta San Miguel
Punta Banda
Cabo San Miguel
Punta San Fermin
Punta San Carlos
Punta Santo Tom´as
Punta San Antonio
Punta Santa Teresa
Punta P´ulpito
Punta Santa Isabel
Punta Santo Domingo
Punta Morro Hermoso
Punta Clambey
Punta San Francisquito
Punta San Hip´olito
Punta Falsa
PuntaSanto Domingo
FERRY
FERR
Y
FERRYTo Mazatl´an
Maranata Restaurant
CABO PULMO NATIONAL PARK
Nuestra Señora de Loreto Missionand Mission Museum
Hotel Brennan
Real del Castillo
Santo Tomás Vineyard
BAHÍA DE LOS ÁNGELES,CANALES DE BALLENAS Y SALSIPUEDES BIOSPHERE RESERVE
COMPLEJO LAGUNAROJO DE LIEBREBIOSPHERE RESERVE
Mama Espinosa’s
ALTO GOLFO DE CALIFORNIA
Y DELTA DEL RÍO COLORADO
BIOSPHERE RESERVE
Los Barriles/Buena Vista
Todos Santos
La Casa de Doña Lupe
Guadalupe Valley Wine Region
Isla Carmen
Isla Coronados
Isla Santa Catalina
Isla RasaSan Francisco de
Borja Adac Mission
SIERRA SAN
PEDRO MARTIR
NATIONAL PARK
La Rumorosa
Festivities of theHoly Cross
Gray WhaleFestival
Baja Prog,Festivals of the Sun
Puerto NuevoLobster Festival
San FelipeShrimp Festival
Fiestas de laVendimia
La PazFoundation Festival
Todos SantosArt Festival
San José del CaboFestivities
Our Lady of Loreto Festivities,Loreto Foundation Festival
San Ignacio de LoyolaFair and Festival
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Tijuana
San Diego
Tucson
Ensenada
Nogales
Ciudad Obreg´on
San LuisRío Colorado
Escondido
Oceanside
ChulaVista
Los Mochis
Loreto
Tecate
La Joya
San Felipe
Santa Rosalía
Guerrero Negro
L´azaro C´ardenas
Vicente Guerrero
San Jos´edel Cabo
Guadalupe Victoria
Playas de Rosarito
Ciudad Constituci´on
Maneadero
Magdalenade Kino
Guaymas
Esperanza
Miguel Alem´an
Calexico
El Centro
Imperial Beach
Nogales
Yuma
Cabo San Lucas
Delta
Nopol´o
Cadej´e
Muleg´e
Camal´u
Colonet
Ruben Jaramillo
El Arco
Algodon
Punta Estrella
Las Pocitas
Miraflores
Uruapan
Batequi
San Lino
Santiago
PuertoMorro Redondo
Cedros
Rosarito
ChametlaSargento
Cardonal
Boca de la Vinorama
Catavi˜na
El Coyote
San Agustín
Las Barrancas
San Pedro
La HuertaOjos Negros
La Ribera
San Isidro
Santa Rita
CandelariaMigri˜no
El Pescadero
San Marcos
San Javier
El Triunfo
El Rosario
Pichilingue
San Juanico
Poza Grande
San Bartolo
Buena Vista
Puertecitos
Santo Tom´as
La Bufadora
San Vicente
San Ignacio
La Purísima
San Antonio
San Quintín
Todos Santos
Punta Prieta
PuertoChale
San Evaristo
Topolobampo
Puerto Nuevo
Punta Prieta
Puerto Cort´es
Benito Ju´arez
Nuevo Uruapan
Santo Domingo
Villa Morelos
Bahía Tortugas
San Jos´e Viejo
Santa Catarina
Bahía Asunci´on
San Pablo
Punta Abreojos
San Juan Bautista Londo
Santa Catarina
Santa Clara
Emiliano Zapata
EnsenadaBlanca
Calafia
CiudadMorelos
Hermosillo
Puebla
San Antoniode las Minas
L´azaro C´ardenas
FranciscoZarcoLa Misi´on
Santa Rosaliíta
Puerto Magdalena
San Luis Gonzaga
PuertoAgua Verde
Er´endira
San AntonioNecua
PuertoSan Carlos
San Carlos
Puerto San Isidro
Ciudad Insurgentes
El Compadre
San Jos´e de Comond´u
San Antoniodel Mar
Valle de las Palmas
Santa Maríade Toris
San Jos´ede la Zorra
San Juande la Costa
Bahía de los Angeles
San Jos´e deMagdalena
San Juande Los Planes
Villa Ignacio Zaragoza
Puerto San Francisquito
Villa Jes´us María
San Antoniode la Higuera
Puerto AdolfoL´opez Mateos
H´eroes de laIndependencia
Atil
Altar
Ortiz
Vicam
S´aric
Onavas
Sonoyta
Rosario
Oquitoa
EjidoNayarit
La Choya
Empalme
Quiriego
Bacanora
El Sasabe
Agua Zarca
San Carlos
Trincheras
San Nicol´as
Kino Nuevo
Pozo Nuevo
Cuauht´emoc
Bahía Kino
Valle Verde
Santa María
Los Molinos
La Tubutama
Las Avispas
Puerto Libertad
Punta Chueca
Puerto Lobos
Las Cuevitas
La Polvareda
Los Tanques
El Desemboque
Santa Eduwiges
Marina del Rey
Luis B. S´anchez
BenitoJu´arez
Golfo de Santa Clara
Ejido Luis E. Johnson
Puerto Pe˜nasco(Rocky Point)
El Rosario
Los Barriles
B
B
B
B
Mexicali
La Paz
Hermosillo
Phoenix
SONORA
SINALOA
BAJA
CALIFORNIA
BAJA
CALIFORNIA
SUR
ARIZONA
CALIFORNIA
UNITED STATES
MEXICO
UNITED STATESMEXICO
Source of grapes forthe Ensenada winery
Taste and buy the many localhandmade cheeses of this region
All-organic wines, cheese, and jams
Regional foods such as dates and figsVendor of traditional handicrafts
World’s primary breeding spot forHeermann’s gulls and elegant terns
Palm fiber baskets andpottery by local artisans
Heart of the “East Cape” and perfect spotfor fishing, kayaking, or windsurfing
Handmade leather goodsand wooden handicrafts
Walk the sand dunes, viewsaltworks ruins, and sunbatheon a secluded beach
World-renown surf spot
Home to the giant barrel cactusand a rattle-less rattlesnake
Small, family-owned hotel offering sport-fishing and whale-watching excursions
Known for lobster burritosand warm hospitality
Well-preserved stone churchcompleted in 1801 and still in use today
29°
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28°N
24°
23°
112°
113°114°115°
116°117°
111°
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111°W
110° 109°
32°
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28°N
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33°
TROPIC OF CANCER
Longitude West of Greenwich
Cataviña Cave PaintingsAncient yet vivid figures of yellow,red, and brown on walls and ceilingof a small desert cave.
La ChinescaChinese immigrants arrived in theearly 1900s and created a flourish-ing Chinatown that rivaled that ofmajor North American cities. Tastethe unique blend of Mexican andChinese flavors for yourself at oneof the 100-plus restaurants.
Arts and Crafts CorridorPeruse shop after shop of handcrafted pottery, baskets,rugs, and furniture, all locallymade and sold at bargain prices.
TijuanaTry a Caesar salad in the town whereCaesar Cardini created the worldfamous dish. Tortas Wash Movil,housed in a white stall next to an oldcar wash, is well-known for savory tortas—mesquite-grilled beef sand-wiches similar to hamburgers. Satisfyyour sweet tooth with dulce de leche,walnut marzipan, and other Mexicanspecialties at Mercado El Popo.
L.A. Cetto VineyardTake a tour, walk the gardens, or picnic at the vineyard of Mexico’slargest wine producer. Visit the tasting room and linger over a glassof Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, or the highly acclaimed Nebbiolo.
Cirios Valley Natural Protected AreaNamed after the towering spike-likeCirio plant, this protected areastretches from Pacific to Gulf coast.Spot mule deer, coyote, and bighornsheep while inland, and sea turtlesand peregrine falcons where desertmeets the sea.
Valley of the GiantsYou’ll need to crane your neck tosee the tops of these giant cardoncacti that tower over the desertlandscape of this natural reserve.
San Quintín Bay Blue and purple sea grass beds provide winter habitat for the Pacificblack brant goose, and coastalmarshes shelter the light footedclapper rail. Bring binoculars andwalk for miles on deserted beaches,or view ruins of an old mill, nowhome to a bayside restaurant.
La LoberaPeer over the edge of what appears tobe a vast seaside crater, actually acollapsed cave, for a look at the sealions who reside deep below.
San Ignacio Kadakaamán MissionThis impressive Spanish colonialchurch has four-foot-thick walls oflocal volcanic stone, a grand exte-rior façade with cornices, moldings,and engraved stone plaques, andan interior altar of carved woodand gold.
Laguna San IgnacioThis World Heritage Site is the onlyremaining gray whale breedinglagoon considered undisturbed by human development. Take an educational boating and campingexpedition with Ecoturismo Kuyimáand observe adult whales and theiryoung offspring.
La Unica Ecotourism CampSolar panels generate electricity forcabins at this natural reserve. Take a guided educational desert hike, photographic sea tour, or fishing trip.
Ruta del Rio HardyWetlands on the Pacific Flyway formigratory birds and home to theendangered Yuma clapper rail andyellow-billed cuckoo. Go canoeing,camp along the river, or join in com-munity-based restoration efforts.
Rancho Los ChabacanosWash your cares away in the “temaz-cal,” a steam bath used by ancientsfor healing and purification. Hike thenature trail. Savor gourmet Mexicanfood at this hacienda lodge.
SCALE 1:1,400,000
Lambert Conformal Conic Standard Parallels 24.5° and 30.5°
0
0
25
25
mi
km
Archaeological site
Festival
Mission or church
Museum
Natural or scenic area
Other point of interest
Urban area
Biosphere reserve
National park
Other protected area
Map Key
Protected Areas
Visit www.discoverbajacalifornia.com andwww.explorebajasur.com to learn more about points of interest on the peninsula of Baja California.
Copyright © 2007 National Geographic Society, Washington, D.C.
Funded by National Geographic Expeditions, LindbladExpeditions, and the Mexican Fund for the Conservation ofNature (FMCN). Prepared by National Geographic Maps andthe National Geographic Center for Sustainable Destinationsin collaboration with the Sonoran Institute, the BajaCalifornia Tourism Office, and the Baja California SurTourism Office.
Text by Charlie Kulander, author; Tom Miller, editor. Mapnotes by Angela Burnford.
National Geographic and the people of the states of BajaCalifornia and Baja California Sur present this GeotourismMapGuide to the peninsula of Baja California.
When the San Andreas Fault divorcedthe peninsula from the North Americanmainland a few million years back, notonly did it create the world’s youngestsea, it left behind some tectonicorphans: over 200 of them. (A few newervolcanic islands have added to theirnumber.) These islands, powered bynutrient-rich seas, raced down the evolutionary highway, becoming hometo the largest number of endemicspecies in North America: chuckwallas,rattlesnakes, jackrabbits, spiders, scorpions, squirrels, lizards, plants and insects. This astounding diversityprompted UNESCO to recognize theGulf’s islands as a World Heritage Site.And it’s why a network of national parks—the Loreto, San Lorenzo, and Espíritu Santo marine parks, the Bahíade los Angeles and Upper Gulf bios-pheres—have been created to protect these islands.
Tim Means, founder, Baja Expeditions: “There’s no place where we have thepossibility to save so much of theworld’s wildlife than what we have here in the Sea of Cortez right now. Once it’s gone, you can’t put it back.”
To live along the Baja California-U.S.border is to be part of a shared history—Old West towns transformed intoneon cities mixed with extreme cli-mates and disparate cultures. You canfeel this sensation in Mexicali’s Chineserestaurants where sweet and sour Asianflavors intermingle with spicy Mexicanaromas. We borderlanders have adopt-ed the fashions and customs of theglobalized world without losing ourown rich culture. We live in moderncities yet endure severe desert condi-tions in a land that demands a strongcharacter and a defiant disposition. Just by traveling along the Mexicali-Tijuana highway and looking up at the Rumorosa mountains you feel the light-headedness of the ages—the same rocks that the poet LawrenceFerlinghetti called “a fantastic mountainlandscape of nothing but stone” with“bright sun flames close over.” In someways we Baja California borderlandersare the ultimate gold-seekers, nomadswho have, in this region, discovereddestiny under transcendent light.-- Gabriel Trujillo Muñoz, author,Mexicali
The real celebrities found off peninsularshores are the 31 species of dolphin andwhales whose feathered geysers you’llspot on the horizon. None are moreimpressive than the sperm whales, thelargest toothed mammals in the world.They hunt the Gulf’s most mysteriousand prolific creature, the torpedo-likeHumboldt squid. In Santa Rosalía, wit-ness the sunset exodus of 200 outboard-driven pangas, speeding offshore for anight of squid fishing, a bobbing city oflights on the Sea of Cortez.
Mario Reyes, squid fisherman, SantaRosalía:"It is risky out here. The squid’s beak issharp, and we bathe in its ink. By law,we can only fish by hand with hooks,which keeps the fishery sustainable—very tiring, but worth it. When the cop-per mines in town closed, there was noway to make a living until we began fish-ing squid. Santa Rosalía now depends onthe squid fishery, even though it is not afood we are accustomed to eating.Asians buy most of our catch.”
Professor Bill Gilly, Hopkin's MarineStation:"One squid can produce a million off-spring; the population is absolutelyimmense. Sperm whales probably takeout as much squid as man does; they'lleat half a ton of them a day, one reasonthe whale population is very healthy. Upin Isla San Pedro Mártir I saw six hugesperm whales doing barrel rolls rightnext to the ship."
Whether it's folkloric art along the bor-der or the government-sponsored Casasde Cultura found in the dustiest of towns,you’ll feel the vital artistic pulse of thepeninsula. Resident artists—Mexican andinternational—are interpreting sea anddesert in startling new ways, a vibrancythat fills the galleries in Todos Santosand elsewhere. Inspired by their sur-roundings, artists increasingly work toconserve them.
Michael Cope, owner, Galería de TodosSantos:"This is an oasis in the desert—the clarity of light, the water, even the waycows walk across the road—everything a painter needs is in Todos Santos. Wework with the town to preserve thisregional character. Seeing how popularwe’ve become, the town realizes what'sat stake; we now have building codes tokeep it historical. And the art communityhas initiated school art programs.”
Miguel Angel De la Cueva, photographer,La Paz:"While climbing the Sierra de la Gigantayears ago, I was awestruck by itsgrandeur, and felt the need to share itsforce and beauty. If my photographs canmake a person feel this same passion,then perhaps they will help to protectthese places. This has become my work.”
Mexico’s GalápagosA N E V O L U T I O N A R Y T R E A S U R E
Giant winter swells slant down thepeninsula's west coast, curling intowaves sought by the world’s bestsurfers, while 50 miles away, kayakersglide on flatiron seas. That's the diversi-ty this narrow peninsula offers: you canencounter a placid Caribbean-like beachon one side, Hawaii's North Shore on theother, and tackle the Sierras in between—all in one day. And if you're preparedfor a multi-sport adventure, the weatherwill never shut you down.
Pedro Cole, bodysurfer, La Paz:"Some of the best waves come up fromthe south, driven by severe summerstorms. Surf breaks that lie dormant—where you never see waves—suddenlyturn into some of the most incrediblebreaks you'll ever ride. Where are thebest spots? You gotta be kidding. Youhave to find these places yourself."
Trudi Angell, tour operator, Loreto:“In March 1978, we paddled out of thechannel across to Isla Danzante in themoonlight surrounded by whale blowsto begin a month-long paddle down thecoast to La Paz. It was a magical night.Thirty years later, and I’m still here.”
An Endless SummerD I S C O V E R I N G T H E P E N I N S U L A’ S D I V E R S I T Y
Sustaining SeasW H A L E S A N D M A N D E P E N D O N S Q U I D
The BorderlandI N T E R M I N G L I N G F L A V O R S U N D E R G L O R I O U S L I G H T
Desert VisionsA R T I S T S W O R K I N A T R A N S C E N D E N T L A N D S C A P E
orget about calling this 800-mile-long peninsula Baja or "Lower" California. Thiswas California, named that way on mapslong before the first mission bells pealed
over San Diego.The early explorers may have put this peninsu-
la on the map, but they failed miserably in theirsearch for treasure. Thank goodness they didn’tmake much of an impact on the land, most ofwhich looks now as it did when Cortez aban-doned the peninsula: stark, defiantly beautiful,intimidating. Yet the spines and barbs are just an evolutionary defense protecting
its gentler side. Walking in an arroyo after my first Baja summer thunderstorm—hummingbirds probing ocotillo flowers, fat mesquitepods dangling on the branch—I realized that this peninsula was a sleeping beauty, needing only the kiss of water to awaken.
The Californios have always known this, and have managed a cen-turies-old balance of limited resources that could serve as a lesson to usall. You might see some vacation developments threatening this balance,places tilting more towards fantasy than reality. But remember, thispeninsula is the original California, and its California Dream isn’t make-believe. It’s defined by the distinctive places you’ll find on this map,judged by the people who actually live here as being the peninsula’smost authentic treasures. Visiting them enriches your journey, and sustains their future. They and their visitors agree with John Steinbeck:"A dream hangs over the whole region.”
—Charlie Kulander, travel author
ARIZONA
SINALOA
BAJACALIFORNIA
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IslaGuadalupe
BAJACALIFORNIA
CALIFORNIA
PACIFICOCEAN
SONORA
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CHIHUAHUA
U.S.MEXICO
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KAYAKING, ENSENADA GRANDE, ISLA PARTIDARALPH LEE HOPKINS
PACIFICOCEAN
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4259 ft1298 m
Monte Augusta
Morro Sur
Punta del Vapor
Punta del Norte
ISLA GUADALUPE
BIOSPHERE RESERVE
Isla Guadalupe
29°N
118°W
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CATHOLIC CHURCH, TODOS SANTOSBERNARD FRIEL / DANITA DELIMONT / ALAMY
TODOS SANTOSSculptors, dancers, and surfers alike call this his-toric seaside town home. Start your day withwarm bread from family-owned Panadería TodosSantos. Tour Nuestra Señora del Pilar de TodosSantos Mission, built in 1786. Browse shelves ofhard-to-find books at Tecolote Bookstore.
GUADALUPE VALLEY WINE REGIONWine producers of this temperate valleyharvest grapes that yield over eighty per-cent of Mexico’s wines. Stop at vineyardsand restaurants along the Wine Route—pick up a map at Baja Tourism offices.
ADOBE GUADALUPE, GUADALUPE VALLEYJULIO RODRÍGUEZ R.
UPPER GULF OF CALIFORNIA AND COLORADORIVER DELTA BIOSPHERE RESERVEWetlands and estuaries provide refuge forthe endangered Gulf of California harbor porpoise and other endemic species.Birdwatch in Montague and Pelicano Islands. Tour Roca Consag by boat.
COLORADO RIVER DELTAGEORGE STEINMETZ / CORBIS
LA RUMOROSAJULIO RODRÍGUEZ R.
NUESTRA SEÑORA DE LORETO MISSIONAND MISSION MUSEUM Founded in 1697 and considered the firstsuccessful mission on the peninsula. Visitthe museum, which depicts the lives ofboth natives and missionaries, and theoriginal stone church, recently restored.
NUESTRA SEÑORA DE LORETO MISSIONPURESTOCK / GETTY IMAGES
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geo.tour.ism (n): Tourism that susta ins or enhances thegeographica l character of a
place— its environment, culture ,aesthetics, heritage , and the
well-being of its residents.
BAY OF LOS ANGELES, WHALES AND SALSIPUEDES CHANNELS BIOSPHERE RESERVEFind yourself sleeping under the stars, paddling through shaded coves, or exploring
arid desert islands that rise out of the turquoise sea. When birdwatching for peli-cans and ospreys, cast your eyes downward for the chance to see a humpback whale in this newly-established protected area.
BROWN PELICANS JULIO RODRÍGUEZ R.
ANGELFISH, CABO PULMO NATIONAL MARINE PARKOCTAVIO ABURTO / WWW.COLORESDELBERMEJO.COM
CABO PULMO NATIONAL MARINE PARKTake a dive into the only coral reef in the Sea ofCortez and swim among 800 species of marineanimals, including whale sharks, leatherback turtles, and bottlenosd dolphins. Learn howGrupo Tortuguero is dedicated to sea turtle conservation.
ON THE PENINSULA, THE DREAM IS REAL
Peninsula of
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Todos Santos Art Festival Todos Santos, Baja California Sur(end of January or early February) Exhibits and performanc-es by local and regional artists, musicians, filmmakers, andartisans, workshops, and conferences www.todossantos-baja.com/todos-santos/art/art-festival.htmGray Whale Festival Magdalena Bay, Baja California Sur (endof January to mid-February) Promotes the opening of thewhale-watching season with music and entertainment, localfood, horse racing, and fireworks www.bajaquest.com/side-trips/sidetrip04.htmBaja Prog Mexicali, Baja California (March) Largest progres-sive rock concert in Mexico drawing bands and fans from allaround the world www.bajaprog.org/webring_progordie.phpFestival of San José del Cabo San José del Cabo, BajaCalifornia Sur (mid-March) Beginning with parties and music,this festival continues for 11 days with carnivals andparades on weekends www.mexperience.com/guide/beaches/sanjosedelcabo.htmLa Paz Foundation Festival La Paz, Baja California Sur (firstweek in May) Exhibits and concerts celebrate the foundingof La Paz on May 3, 1535 www.lapaz-tourism.com Festivities of the Holy Cross, Valle de Mexicali, BajaCalifornia (May) Traditional religious celebration featuringdancing, music, and colorful costumes www.cucapah.orgSan Ignacio de Loyola Fair and Festival San Ignacio, BajaCalifornia Sur (last week of July) Festival honors the town’spatron saint and includes horse races, music, dances,religous celebrations, sports events, and fireworkswww.mexonline.com/cityguide-sanignacio.htmFiestas de la Vendimia Ensenada , Baja California (August)Presentation of the wines of Baja California accompanied bymusic, food tasting and art www.fiestasdelavendimia.comOur Lady of Loreto Festivities Loreto, Baja California Sur(September 5-8) Honors Loreto's patron saint and Baja'sfirst mission with a series of religious, civic, and culturalactivities including pilgrimages, baptisms, sport-fishing tournaments, horse races, and dances www.loreto.comFestivals of the Sun Mexicali, Baja California (end ofSeptember to mid-October) Dancing, music, art exhibits,parades, carnival rides, and food booths featuring regionalcuisine www.fiestasdelsol.com.mxLoreto Foundation Festival Loreto, Baja California Sur(October 19-25) Celebrates the founding of Baja’s first townwww.loreto.comPuerto Nuevo Lobster Festival Puerto Nuevo, Baja California(October) Live music, crafts, local wine sampling, folkloricodancing, contests, and lobster feast www.puertonuevolobster.com/puerto-nuevo-lobster-festival.htmSan Felipe Shrimp Festival San Felipe , Baja California(November) Big block party with three days of music, danc-ing, seafood, and beach fun www.sanfelipe.com.mx
Puertecitos Hot SpringsBask in your choice of these geothermally-heated poolscooled by tidal seawater.
TecateStart your day with a donut or pastryfrom Bakery el Mejor Pan de Tecate,where the savvy and hungry line updaily to wait for fresh-baked bread.Tour the Cuauhtémoc MoctezumaBrewery and sample cervezas in thebeer garden.
MexicaliGrab a seat at the El Acueducto bar inHotel Lucerna and ask for the worldfamous tomato juice and clam juicecocktail born here. About 28 milessouth of Mexicali, along the LagunaSalada, find Olivarera Italo-Mexicana, acompany that produces extra-virgin oliveoil from some 260,000 olive trees.
Cedros IslandOn a 3- to 4-hour hike from town tothe island’s nearly 4,000-foot peakyou’ll observe junipers, oak, and pinetrees, but no cedar trees, for whichthe island was mistakenly named.
Laguna Ojo de LiebreConsidered one of the best whale-watching spots in the world, thisWorld Heritage Site provides refugefor breeding gray whales and theircalves during the winter.
CataviñaBring your camera on a desert hikeamid endemic blue palms and Cirios,giant Cardon cacti—the world’slargest cactus, and the boulder fieldwhere centuries of wind has shapedhills and valleys of smooth rock.
Natural History and CulturalMuseum of Bahía de los AngelesA 30-foot-long gray whale skeletonhangs from the ceiling of this smallmuseum that also exhibits arrow-heads from Cochimi natives, equip-ment from abandoned mines, and anentire wall of well-described shells.
Mission Santa Gertrudis la MagnaSmall stone church built in 1752and its freestanding bell tower ashort distance away.
Isla San MarcosIn between diving and fishing, besure to check out the carvingsmade by local fishermen.
Puerto Adolfo López MateosBook a whale-watching trip, gosportfishing, or birdwatch in thisfriendly port city.
Puerto San CarlosThis fishing village and deep-waterport is a favorite birdwatching spot.Catch a glimpse of resident ospreysor Brant geese. Go whale-watching.
Magdalena BayHike sand dunes, camp on remotebeaches, or kayak calm mangroveforests of this wetland ecosystemrich in wildlife. Get close to Pacificgray whales in winter months orspot bald eagles, magnificentfrigatebirds, or the endangeredCalifornia brown pelican.
Espíritu Santo IslandSwim among sea lions, kayak beneathred rock cliffs, or snorkel alongsidepufferfish, angelfish, and rainbow wrassein this biologically diverse protectedarea. After camping on the beach, hikethe island and keep an eye out for theblack jackrabbit and a certain type ofantelope ground squirrel found nowhereelse on the planet.
What is geotourism all about?According to National Geographic, geotourism “sustainsor enhances the geographical character of a place—itsenvironment, culture, aesthetics, heritage, and the well-being of its residents.” Geotravelers, then, are people wholike that idea, who enjoy authentic sense of place andcare about maintaining it. They find that relaxing and having fun gets better—provides a richer experence—when they get involved in the place and learn about what goes on there.
Geotravelers soak up local culture, hire local guides,buy local foods, protect the environment, and take pridein discovering and observing local customs. Travel-spend-ing choices can help or hurt, so geotravelers patronizeestablishments that care about conservation, preserva-tion, beautification, and benefits to local people.
San Luis Gonzaga Chiriyaqui MissionStep inside the 1750s stone church or walk amid the fruit trees of this mission set in the middle of the desert.
GUADALUPE ISL AND BIOSPHERE RESERVEScuba dive, whale-watch, or observe greatwhite sharks on this remote volcanicisland and sole reproduction zone for theGuadalupe fur seal.
EnsenadaTour Baja California’s oldest winery,Santo Tomás, and sip the award-win-ning 2002 Cabernet with dinner in aformer wine-aging warehouse. Walk offyour filet by the street-side sculpturesof locally born Alfonso Arambula, whofashions objects out of natural andrecycled materials.
Guerrero NegroWetlands provide habitat for the whitepelican, royal eagle, and gray andwhite heron. Nearby, visit the largestnatural outdoor saltworks in the worldand see locally made salt figurines.
Malarrimo BeachFamous for objects—from driftwoodand sea glass to kitchen appliances—cast here by ocean currents from asfar away as Alaska and Japan.
Cultural Center andMuseum of Todos SantosView colonial artifacts, local handicrafts,and larger-than-life murals depicting thepeninsula’s history. Attend a folk danc-ing workshop or painting demo duringthe week-long annual art festival.
La PazView cave painting reproductions, colonialobjects, and other artifacts at the RegionalMuseum of Anthropology and History. Try thefish tacos and ceviche at either El Bismarkor El Bismarkcito. Stroll along the six-mile-long Malecón, a lively waterfront promenadeperfect for eating ice cream and watchingthe sunset. Find out if Los Huizapoles, apopular musical, theatrical, and comic duo,are currently performing in town.
House of the Southern Baja Californian ArtisanThis cooperative has a showroom andstore featuring paintings, sculptures,and clothing made by local craftspeople.
Danzante ResortThis luxurious eco-resort employsits neighbors only and is built from renewable and handmadematerials. Take in the sea panora-ma from your private hilltop suite,spend the day in the mountains or sea, and enjoy a meal from the organic garden.
San José EstuaryThis protected bird sanctuary ishome to more than 250 birdspecies, including egrets, pelicans,and frigatebirds. Wander the quietpaths or kayak the lagoon.
Santa RosalíaWooden homes with balconies andporches replaced disordered adobestructures when a French mining company founded this town. Strollstreets lined by original pastel-huedstructures, grab a fresh baguette atPanadería El Boleo, in business since1901, and stop in the library for photos of the town’s mining heyday.
Sierra San Pedro Martir National ParkSnow falls on granite mountainpeaks rising abruptly out of sea anddesert. Climb to the highest pointon the peninsula for a view of bothcoasts, and watch for goldeneagles and condors flying overhead.
Baja map side 1/15/08 9:44 AM Page 1
Visit www.discoverbajacalifornia.com and www.explorebajasur.com to learn more about points of interest in the Baja California region.Copyright © 2007 Nationa l Geographic Societ y, Washing ton, D.C.
Rosalía, you may witness a shimmering mirage of islandsdisappearing right before your eyes. You will havelearned a most important lesson: nothing here is what itseems. It doesn’t matter how you travel—by car orkayak, sailboat or mountain bike—the wind-whippedseas, searing heat, mysterious currents, unmarked roadsand trails will interfere with your planned journey,pulling you towards the unexpected. You can plan yourroute, but don’t expect to always follow it.
—Charlie Kulander, travel author
A Quixotic spirit runs through this peninsula. Therancheros, for example, barely wrest their livelihoodsfrom an intractable desert, yet name their ranches inkeeping with their epic visions: Rancho Esperanza,Rancho Progreso, Rancho El Imposible. Hope, Progress,The Impossible. The clean ocean air washing acrossthe peninsula lets you see clearly into the sublimeheart of the desert, yet as you drop down the hairpinCuesta del Infierno into the furnace-blast heat of Santa
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1857 Constitution National ParkHike through pine forests, go mountainbiking, or camp beside fresh-waterHanson’s Lagoon in this park named inhonor of the 1857 signing of Mexico’sconstitution.
San Antonio Necua Indigenous CommunityTake a guided hike, go horseback riding, or learn basket-weaving at thisKumiai Indian community. Learn aboutmedicinal plant uses, hear traditionalmusic, and camp at the Siñao KuatayKumiai Recreational Center.
MulegéPart fishing town, part genuineMexican village, part scenic para-dise. Explore the narrow streets orcomb the beach by day and campalong the river under palm trees atnight. Don’t miss the folk dancersat Hotel Serenidad’s pig roast orthe margaritas at Los Equipales.
L A PUR ISIMA OASISPicnic under date palm trees, swim in theriver, or stroll the village streets. Thirteen-hundred-foot rock formation El Pilón beck-ons serious rock climbers.
Santa Barbara ChurchThe town’s main tourist attraction isthe all-steel church that was prefabri-cated in France before being shippedto the current site in pieces.
Canyon La TrinidadPrehistoric cave paintings wellworth the scenic yet challengingcanyon hike and river crossings toget there. Your journey starts atnearby Rancho la Trinidad to seethe larger-than-life figures, includ-ing a giant red deer and human figure. Experienced guide required.
Tía Licha’sStep out onto your balcony towatch the sunrise over the sea,return inside for your traditionalMexican breakfast (made by TíaLicha herself), and set out for aday on deserted beaches or scenic mountains.
Santiago Tour the rebuilt mission church. Visitthe zoo and view parrots, coyotes,reptiles, and native creatures.
El TriunfoAfter the 1750s discovery of goldand silver, wealth-seekingEuropeans flocked here and built agrand mining empire. The 130-foot-tall main chimney still stands,along with smelter and mine ruins.
La BufadoraAt the rocky tip of Punta Bandapeninsula, water shoots upward asfar as 80 feet above sea level,making this the second largestmarine geyser in the world.
Tijuana Cultural CenterConsidered Baja California’s mostimportant cultural center, this modernlandmark is home to a concert hall,IMAX theater, and the Museum of theCalifornias. Allow yourself time in themuseum to see the maps, photographs,tools, and other artifacts that recountthe peninsula’s rich history.
Cuchuma MountainStop and smell the lilacs,artemisia, and sage, or birdwatchfor golden eagles and red-tailedhawks. Find the rock-slab altar atthe peak of this mountain consid-ered sacred to the Kumiai.
Guadalupe Valley CommunityMuseumLocally made Indian crafts andmemorabilia from early Russianimmigrants, all housed in a 1905Russian cottage.
Geotraveler Tips
ENSENADAGrab a fish taco or scope out the catch ofthe day at the lively Fish Market. Kick backwith a cerveza at legendary Hussong’sCantina, where Bing Crosby crooned andJohn Wayne tipped his hat. Meander opulent halls of the Riviera de EnsenadaCivic & Cultural Center, once a famed hoteland casino frequented by celebrities suchas Lucille Ball and Desi Arnaz.
Visiting Archaeological SitesPractice good etiquette at unprotected petro-gylph and pictograph sites: don't take rubbingsor touch them with your hands. The oils on yourfingers can affect potential dating techniquesand accelerate their deterioration. Instead of rubbings, use a camera to preserve the imagesand shoot early or late, in oblique light, toaccentuate the design.
HotelsWhenever possible, lodge at locally owned independent hotels where your money tricklesthrough the local economy. Give preference alsoto hotels that make a point of supporting localconservation, communities, and culture. Laundrysquanders precious water; reuse towels andsheets when practical.
FoodSeeking real regional cuisine? Skip pre-trip provi-sioning; you'll find everything you need prowlingthe peninsula's modern supermarkets found in allthe larger cities, and things you’ve never heard ofat roadside stands and mini-mercados. Don'tmiss the specialties of the smaller towns: sweetraisins, pitahaya fruit, dates, Mission grape wine.
GolfStick to links with eco-focused management systems including gray water irrigation andsaline-tolerant hybrid grass (the rare exceptionhere, not the rule).
WeatherSummer hurricanes get the publicity, butNortes—the northerly gale-force winds of winteron the Sea of Cortez—are a bigger hazard tosmall craft. Listen to AM radio. If Santa Anawinds are forecast in Southern California,prepare for Nortes whistling down the Gulf,especially during the months of January andFebruary. VHF and single sideband radios broadcast the latest weather reports.
MoneyBring small denomination Mexican bills, especiallyto rural areas where it may be impossible to breaka 500-peso note. You'll get the best exchange rateat the ATMs found in all the larger cities.
Real EstateA long-term rental in an integrated communityproclaims your compatibility with local culture,and avoids the tourist bubble that dwelling inhigh-end resorts consigns you to. Buying into anew housing development in a remote, pristinearea will speed its deterioration. Nor should youbuy into a place on your first trip when you’rewearing rose-tinted glasses; stay nearby a coupleof times. Check for year-round electricity, hurri-cane protection, insurance, waste and sewagedisposal, and especially potable water. Seek ahouse that fits into the desert surroundings,aesthetically, culturally, ecologically.
National ParksA big chunk of a national park's revenue comesfrom entrance fees. While tour outfitters usuallyare responsible for paying their clients' fees, ifyou are traveling independently, inquire locallywhere to pay. Coastal parks have a very limitedfleet of patrol boats, but you can help out byreporting park infractions such as a sea turtlecapture or a shrimp boats dragging nets in pro-tected waters.
Cultural DifferencesWhether you're a local resident or foreign visitor,allow plenty of social leeway to avoid culturalmisunderstandings. Visitors, carry a Spanish dictionary, or at least a guidebook with a goodlanguage glossary.
CampsitesStick to trails that have been around for decadesif not centuries. The desert ecology is easilyscarred by errant footsteps. (And getting lost is areal danger.) As a custodian of the wild, beproactive and clean up after others who havegone before you.
On the BeachLeave footprints, not trash. Shells and driftwoodare part of the fragile beach habitat; leave themin their place. Keep in mind that campfires canscar beaches for years and are illegal on theGulf's islands. Finally, Mexico maintains a publicright-of-way from the mean high tide line to 66feet inland, even in front of exclusive resorts.(Local beach peddlers know this!)
BETWEEN TIJUANA AND ENSENADA
Rosarito Beach HotelFormer Prohibition watering holefor Hollywood royalty. Take in thelobby’s panoramic murals or theview of the beach from the bar.Family-owned since the 1920s.
Cultural Investigations Center andMuseum of the AutonomousUniversity of Baja CaliforniaView local history exhibits, sculp-tures and crafts from indigenouspeoples, regional artwork, and more.
VallecitosHike through pine forests and agavegroves to locate several prehistoricrock paintings. On the winter sol-stice, a sunbeam enters the cave ofred-colored “El Diablito,” or “LittleDevil,” and illuminates only the figure’s eyes.
GUADALUPE CANYONExplore desert landscape and palm grovesat the foot of granite mountains. Swim inspring-fed pools. Tour prehistoric rock artsites. Unwind in the private outdoor hottub at your campsite.
Tajo CanyonSpectacular El Trono Blanco,Mexico’s tallest monolith at 1,970feet, rises out of a rugged boulder-and palm-tree-strewn gorge.Climbing and hiking this rugged land-scape is not for the faint of heart.
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Cucapá Community MuseumThe Cucapá have inhabited thisregion for 3,000 years and todaystruggle to subsist in a severelyenvironmentally degraded area.The museum recounts their historyand exhibits traditional handicraftsand clothing.
BETWEEN SANTA ROSALIA AND MULEGE
BAL ANDRA BEACH Wade through the opalescent blue-greenwater of this shallow bay and view 12-foot-tall “Mushroom Rock,” a well-known land-mark and symbol of La Paz. With its man-groves and mountain backdrop, this publicbeach, threatened by development, is afocal point for conservation efforts.
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SANTA ROSALÍA DE MULEGÉ MISSION Step inside the picturesque 18th-centurylime and stone church to see the originalstatue of Saint Rosalía. Outside, follow therocky steps for a panorama of the sur-rounding hills, river, and palm tree forest.
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El Angel AzulBright, traditional colors fill the guest-rooms of this family-owned B&B, originally the town’s courthouse andrecently restored. Step under thehacienda-style arches into the gardenand enjoy a traditional Mexican breakfast before taking a short walk to the waterfront.
Baja California
TijuanaWalk the lively Avenida Revolución,Tijuana’s main street, known byTijuanans as “La Revu.” Head to JaiAlai Fronton Palace, which formerlyhoused fast-paced Basque ballgames and exhibits impressiveMoorish architecture.
La Rumorosa GradeKeep one eye on the steep, windinghighway and another on the impres-sive mountain scenery as youdescend 4,000 exhilarating feet.
Desert EcologyIronwood trees are the Florence Nightingales ofthe desert, nursing hundreds of plant speciesunder their shade canopies. Wood from theserapidly disappearing trees, some 800 years old,have been converted to woodcarvings andmesquite charcoal. Admire the trees, but avoidpurchasing their carvings or their charcoal. KeepATVs and similar off-road vehicles on establishedroads and paths, doing otherwise violates regula-tions and scars the land for years, even decades.
How to Help the Baja California RegionRetain Its CharacterFocus on what's authentic. Not only will you gaingreater cultural insight, your targeted pesos willhelp local communities conserve local traditionand protect natural resources. Baja Californiostypically respond with enthusiasm and heartfelthospitality to any traveler curious about theirdaily lives.
Puerto NuevoSelf-proclaimed “Lobster Capital ofBaja” and home to 30-plus restau-rants all serving the same dish:Puerto Nuevo lobster—crustaceanspan-fried in lard and served withbeans, rice, and tortillas.
PhotographyDigital cameras work best, as image quality doesnot deteriorate in heat. Flash is prohibitedaround cave paintings and in most museums.Instead, boost ISO to 800 or 1200. For wildlifephotos, keeping your distance with a telephotolens reflects humane consideration and ensuresquality pictures.
SAN JOSE DEL CABOMeander the laid-back streets lined withcolonial buildings, bougainvillea, andpalms. Explore art galleries and boutiques.Listen to live music on the town plaza.
LAND OF EPIC VISIONS AND UNEXPECTED TRAVELS
Vizcaíno Biosphere ReserveGray whales frequent coastallagoons and fruit-bearing cacticolor the inland arid landscape ofMexico’s largest protected area.View cave paintings—there aremore than 200 in the Sierra SanFrancisco, hike the desert, orexplore islands and wetlands.
Peninsula of
Laguna SaladaDeposits left from Gulf floods createexceptionally salty waters in thisshallow, hour-glass-shaped basin.
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