[ ] August 21, 2015
PLANT BOOSTER
alternatif kepada penggunaan bahan kimia (idris bald)
Dalam negara menuju ke arah pengeluaran bahan makanan dan
produk pertanian yang lebih bermutu dan selamat dimakan, banyak
kaedah penjagaan tanaman telah dijalankan seperti penggunaan
bahan organic dan Efektic MicroOrganisma (EM) telah digunakan.
Cara ini dapat mengurangkan penggunaan bahan kimia seterusnya
mengurangkan kos pengeluaran serta memastikan pengeluaran bahan
makanan bebas dari bahan kimia.
EM ialah sekumpulan mikroorganisma yang hidup berkelompok di
sesuatu tempat. Ianya hidup berharmoni di dalam tanah bersama
tumbuhan dengan membekalkan makanan dan memberi
perlindungan kepada serangga dan binatang kecil yang lain. EM
tempatan boleh dikumpul dan dibiak untuk memperbaiki dan
memulihkan tanah.
Jabtan Pertanian telah berjaya membuktikan penggunaan EM (Plant
Booster) ke atas beberapa tanaman seperti Rock Melon, Tomato, Cili
dan Pisang dapat meningkatkan mutu dan kualiti tanaman tanpa
penggunaan bahan kimia.
En. Wan Muhammad Zukarnain bin Baharudin seorang Pegawai
Pertanian yang berpengalaman dalam tanaman Fertigasi dan Organic
Farming yang berpusat di Bahagian Pembangunan Komoditi Serdang
telah menjalankan penyelidikan terhadap tanaman di atas dengan
hasil yang sangat ketara dari segi pertumbuhan dan juga hasilnya.
Penyediaan EM (Plant Booster) mudah disediakan dengan
penggunaan bahan yang boleh didapati dengan perbelanjaan yang
kecil seperti berikut:
Bahan-bahan penghasilan plant booster
\Gula merah (1kg),
belacan(0.5kg),
nanas (1kg),
telur(10 biji),
dedak (0.5kg),
air (20L),
susu segar atau susu tepung (2L@kg),
pisang (1kg),
betik (1kg),
labu (1kg),
kangkong (1kg) dan
ragi (5 biji)
Kaedah pembuatan Langkah
1: Bahan-bahan seperti belacan, nanas, pisang, betik dan kangkong
perlu dikisar halus. Langkah
2: Bahan-bahan yang dikisar dicampur dengan telur, susu segar atau
susu tepung, dedak, gula merah dan air. Langkah
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[ ] August 21, 2015
3: Kesemua bahan-bahan tersebut di masukkan ke dalam satu bekas
kemudian dikacau. Langkah
4: Buah labu yang dipotong dengan ketebalan 2mm, panjang 5-6cm
dan lebar 2-3 cm diletakkan dipermukaan media bahan yang telah
dicampur dan akhir sekali ragi yang telah dipecahkan ditabur ke atas
permukaan labu atau media. Langkah
5: Bekas tersebut ditutup secara separa anaerobik dan peram selama
seminggu. Produk ini dianggap matang apabila terdapat miselium
putih tumbuh di atas permukaan media dan berbau masam manis.
6: Setelah matang, plant booster dikacau dan ditapis sebelum
digunakan pada tanaman.
Aplikasi pada tanaman
Plant Booster pekat perlu dicairkan terlebih dahulu sebelum
digunakan dilapangan dan kecairan mengikut sukatan seperti
dibawah;
i. Melon; Minggu (M) 1-2 (15ml/1Liter air), M 3-5 (20ml/L) dan M
6-10 (30ml/L)
ii. Tomato; Minggu (M) 1-2 ( 10ml/1Liter air), M 3-5 (15ml/L), M 6-
8(20ml/L) dan M 9 keatas (25ml/L)
iii. Cili; Minggu (M) 1-2 ( 10ml/1Liter air), M 3-5 (20ml/L), M 6-
8(30ml/L) dan M 9 keatas (40ml/L). iv. Pisang; Minggu (M) 2
( 10ml/1 liter air), M 4 (15ml/L), M 8 (20ml/L), M 10 (25ml/L), M
12 ke atas hingga matang (30ml/L) setiap bulan.
Semua kaedah pembajaan dan kawalan perosak adalah mengikut
syor Jabatan Pertanian.
Anda boleh mencuba sendiri.......
Bagi anda yang ingin keterangan lanjut, sila hubungi Bahagian
Pembangunan Komoditi Jabatan Pertanian Serdang Tel: 03-8948
6302 Fax: 03-8942 6616
Enzim Sampah
Enzim pula secara amnya diketahui dapat menggalakkan atau
mempercepatkan proses kimia. Jadi penggunaannya dalam sungai
yang dicemari minyak atau bahan kimia didapati berjaya
merungkaikan ikatan kompleks bahan kimia tersebut dan seterusnya
menjernihkan airnya.
Pada masa yang sama, garam nitrat dan karbonat terbentuk. Kedua-
dua elemen ini dapat membantu menyuburkan tanah dan menjadi
hormon serta nutrien semula jadi kepada tumbuhan.
Dengan menggunakan bahan buangan ini mudah ditemui di
dapur, anda mampu membawa keajaiban. Kulit buah, lebihan sayur
dan bahan yang anda gunakan untuk memasak atau makan, adalah
kuncinya. Tukarkan ia kepada enzim dan anda dapat merawat
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[ ] August 21, 2015
dunia,” ujar seorang pengamal perubatan alternatif homeopati, Dr.
Joean Oon.
Ilmu yang dipelajari daripada seorang pensyarah dan doktor dalam
perubatan alternatif di Thailand, Dr. Rosukon Poompanvong, ini
mula mendapat perhatian dan kini memperoleh permintaan sehingga
ke beberapa negara di rantau Asia Tenggara termasuk Singapura,
Thailand, Indonesia dan Brunei.
Testimonial:
“Pokok naga di sebuah ladang di Seremban yang disembur enzim
sayur-sayuran dan buah-buahan dapat mengeluarkan sehingga 40 biji
buah dari sebatang pokok, sedangkan pokok naga pekebun lain
hanya dapat mengeluarkan maksimum 10 biji. Perbezaannya ialah
empat kali ganda.
“Seorang wanita yang mempunyai 60 pasu pokok bunga orkid
pernah merungut pokok yang ditanam sukar untuk berbunga, tetapi
selepas menyembur enzim yang dihasilkan sendiri, bunga
berkembang sehingga 60 peratus lebih banyak tanpa bantuan baja
herbisid,” kongsi Joean tentang kebaikan enzim kepada bidang agro.
Tidak melibatkan kos yang besar, enzim yang dihasilkan hanya
memerlukan apa yang ada di dapur anda. Perapkan bersama gula
perang, sisa makanan dan air pada nisbah 1: 3: 10 dalam bekas
tertutup dan tunggu selepas tiga bulan.
FAA
Fish Amino Acid ( FAA ) adalah cecair dari proses pereputan ikan
yang menghasilkan asid amino, iaitu komponen penting dari proten.
FAA merupakan penghasilan yang baik untuk kehidupan dan
pertumbuhan microbes dan juga pokok tumbuhan, kerana
mengandungi pelbagai nutrient dan berbagai jenis asid amino dan
component protein lain untuk kebaikan pokok.
1. CARA MEMBUAT FAA ( versi lain sedikit dari
kebiasaan )
Alatan:
Balang kaca atau plastic atau balang tanah liat ( clay pot)
Kain jarang, ( kain lampin, kain kasa, )
Talia tau getah pengikat
Bahan:
Ikan segar dari jenis belakang hitam, tulang2 ikan segar
( buangan dari pembuatan kropok),
Udang atau kulit udang
Isi siput gondang emas ( mudah di dapati)
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[ ] August 21, 2015
Gula merah ( brown sugar), IMO4, (kalu tak ada IMO4
buleh guna IMO2 dan air beras yang di fermented 3 hari ),
OHN ( bawang putih, kumcui, tungkui, kayu manis, halia) di
campur sekali 5 jenis tu.
(bahan di atas spt udang, siput buleh campur jika ada)
Jenis ikan :
Terbaiknya jenis belakang hitam spt sardine, cincaru,
kembung, tongkol (aya), tamban
selar, tuna, ikan bilis ( fresh), ikan mata besar ( lolong ) ikian
pelata dan ikan2 seangkatan.
Ikan belakang hitam ini mengandungi proten yang tinggi dan
baik, asid amino dan juga asid lemak ( fatty asid).
Mengandungi EPA dan DHA yang banyak dan asid lemak
yang tak tepu yang terbaik untuk kesihatan.
Kedua2 bahan DHA dan EPA bertindak menurunkan tahap
kolestrol dan dan menghalang penyakit darah tinggi dan
berkaitan dengan penyakit jantung dan strok.
Mencerdaskan minda kanak2, dengan memberi oksigen pada
otak, mengurangkan penyakit pelupa pada orang tua,
mengandungi pelbagai vitamins untuk kebaikan kesihatan
dan mengurangkan terjadinya penyakit ketuaan dan kaitan
kekurangan vitamis, bahan2 terkandung dalam ikan itu juga
amat baik dan di perlukan oleh pokok untuk kebaikan dan
kesuburan
Kaedah Membuat
1. Basuh ikan menggunakan air tanpa klorin, cincang kecil2
sebesar ibu jari termasuk kepala, tulang dan perut.
2. Ikan cincang di gaul dengan ¾ jumlah gula merah, dan di
masukkan dalam balang, dengan 2/3 isi padu balang.
3. Gaulkan ¼ gula merah tadi dengan IMO4 dan taburkan
dalam balang diatas bahan ikan cincang itu untuk
memudahkan pengoposan isi ikan dan juga minyak ikan ,
(jika menggunakan IMO2, campur sekali air basuhan beras
yang sudah di fermented 3 hari ), masukkan juga sedikit
OHN ( campuran berbagai ) yang di cairkan 1:5 , gunakan
100ml untuk 1kg bahan ikan, kandungan gula merah dan
bahan ikan sama berat 1:1
4. Tutup balang dengan kain dan ikat denagn sempurna dan
pastikan 1/3 ruang di atas bahan ikan.
5. Dalam masa 3-4 hari, bahan ikan mula mencair di sebabkan
tekanan osmotic oleh gula merah, dan terjadinya proses
fermentasi.
6. Dalam masa sebualan jus dari fermentasi buleh di gunakan
jika perlu walaupun tak semau ikan hancur. Kebiasaannya
ikan akan hancur denag sempurna dalam masa 5-6 bulan,
dan amat bagus kulitinya berbanding fermentation 1 bulan.
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[ ] August 21, 2015
FAA yang sudah matang berbau masam manis dan tidak membusuk,
tapis dan boleh di simpan tempat teduh dan sejuk.
Bagaimana menggunakan FAA
1. Fish Amino Acid (FAA) buleh di gunakan selepas di cairkan
dengan air bersih tanpa klorin dengan kadar 1:500-1000.
2. FAA kaya dengan nitrogen N merupakan baja yang bagus
untuk siraman atau semburan foliar untuk mempertingkatkan
pertumbuhan semasa fasa vegetative bila di gabungkan
dengan pembajaan lain spt menggunakan MOL2 lain dalam
kaedah NF.
3. Jika kita membuat IMO untuk di gunakan pada proses
pengoposan bahan organic, campuran FAA yang di cairkan
1:500 akan mempertingkatkan activity microbes dan
perceoatkan proses pengoposan.
4. Untuk sayuran berdaun, menggunakan FAA 1:1000 secara
berterusan akan meningkatkan hasil dan memberi rasa yang
enak dan ber aroma .
5. Disebabkan FAA kaya dengan unsur N , tidak di galakan
menggunakan semasa production stage kerana akan
meningkatkan pertumbuhan vegetative dan mengurangkan
production, tetapi amat baik jika di gunakan sebagai booster
untuk aktikan balik pertumbuhan jika masa production
pokok lambat berkembang cabang Y…buleh di lakukan
hanya 3 -4 minggu sekali.
6. Sesetengah FAA yang mengandungi minyak ikan hasil
fermentasi akan mengeluarkan bau yang agak ketara, dan ini
merupakan sebagai repellent terhadap sesetengah serangga
spt lalat putih dan lain2.
7. FAA dari ikan sardine dan tongkol amat baik untuk
menghalau hamama dan juga lalat putih bila larutan di spray
pada daun atas permukaan atas dan bawah.
8. Jika terdapat tulang2 ikan yang tidak hancur selepas di tapis,
masukan kedalam brown rice vinegar atau cuka nipah akan
mengoposkan tulang dan menghasilkan calcium phosphate
yang berkualiti dan sedia terlarut.
Fungsi-fungsi Fish Amino Acid ( FAA )
Oleh Mohammad Abdul Rahman
1. Mengatasi stress
Stress seperti suhu tinggi, kelembapan rendah atau
kekeringan, serangan hamama atau serangga, hujan
berlebihan ( lembab), banjir dan kekurangan nutrients
memberi efek negatif pada metabolisme tanaman dan akan
membantutkan kualiti dan penghasilan tanaman. Penggunaan
amino asid semasa penanaman secara berterusan akan
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[ ] August 21, 2015
mengubah fisiologi tanaman denagn pengawalan dan
penghindaran stress menjadikan pokok sentiuasa dalam
keadaan baik dan subur dan berupaya menentang penyakit.
1. Pengaruh Fotosintesis
Untuk kesuburan pokok, karbohidrat di sintesiskan oleh
prosess fotosintesis, pada peringkat fotosintesis yang rendah
mengakibatkan pertumbuhan yang lambat dan menyebabkan
kebantutan dan kematian tanaman, klorofil adalah molekul
yang bertanggung jawab untuk penyerapan tenaga cahaya.
Glumate acid dan glisine merupakan enzime untuk proses
sintesis dan pembentukan klorofil pada daun. Asid amino ini
membantu untuk meningkatkan konsentrasi klorofil dan
memantapkan proses fotosintesis lebih tinggi. Hal ini
membuat tanaman menghijau dan subur bila proses sintesis
berlaku secara maksima.
1. Tindakan pada Stomata
Stomata adalah struktur selular yang mengontrol atau
mengawal keseimbangan hydro atau air dalam tanaman,
penyerapan unsur makro dan mikro nutrients dan penyerapan
udara. Pembukaan dan penutupan stomata dikendalikan oleh
dua faktor external (cahaya, kelembaban, suhu dan
konsentrasi garam) dan faktor internal (konsentrasi amino
asid, abscisic acid dan lain2). Stomata akan menutup ketika
cahaya dan kelembaban rendah atau kering dan juga jika
keadaan suhu dan konsentrasi garam yang tinggi, ketika
stomata tertutup proses fotosintesis dan transpirasi atau
perpeluhan berkurang dan berlaku penyerapan yang rendah
pada unsur baja makro dan mikro dan respirasi meningkat
yang memerlukan tenaga dari kabohidrat. Dalam hal ini
keseimbangan metabolisme tanaman adalah negatif.
Catabolism ( penguraian protein dan kabohidrat) lebih tinggi
dari anabolisme. Ini berarti metabolisme lambat dan
menghentikan pertumbuhan tanaman. Asid L-glutamat
bertindak sebagai agen osmotic citoplasm dari sel pengawal.
Penggunaan amino acid akan memudahkan pembukaan
stomata dengan pengawalan dari keseimbangan catabolism.
2. Chelating Effect Amino Acid
Amino acid merupakan agen chelating atau pengurai untuk
micronutrients. Penggunaan bersama atau sebagai siraman
atau campuran dalam tangki baja memudahkan, penyerapan
dan transportation zat2 micro nutrients oleh akar dan pokok.
Effect ini disebabkan tindakan asid dapat mengawal serapan
dan permiability cell membrane dengan pertolongan dari
acid L - Glycine dan L - glutamate yang terkenal sebagai
chelating agen yang sangat effective.
3. Amino Acid dan & phytohormones
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[ ] August 21, 2015
Amino acid merupakan precussor atau aktivator dari
phytohormones dan zat pertumbuhan. L - Metionine
merupakan precussor dari ethylene dan faktor pertumbuhan
seperti Espermine dan Espermidine, yang di synsthesized
dari 5 - Adenosyl Metionine. L - Triptophane ( sebahagian
dari AA) adalah precussor untuk sintesis Auksin.
Triptophane tersedia hanya jika hidrolisis protein dilakukan
oleh enzim.
4. Pendebungaan dan Pembentukan Buah.
Pendebungaan adalah perpindahan debunga ke bunga putik
buah, sehingga terjadinya pembentukan buah . L – Proline
( komponen AA) membantu dalam kesuburan pollen. L -
Lysine, L - Metionine, L - glutamate adalah komponen
amino asid yang esential untuk pendebungaan. Amino asid
meningkatkan kadar pembentukan debunga dan pembesaran
kantung polen.
5. Keseimbangan Microbes Tanah
Keseimbangan microbe tanah pertanian merupakan asas
yang baik untuk penguraian dan peroses mineralisation
untuk menguraikan bahan organik dan juga structure tanah
untuk melepaskan unsur baja pada pokok dalam bentuk yang
mudah di serap. L-metionine salah satu komponen dari AA
adalah faktor pertumbuhan precussor yang menstabilkan
dinding sel microbes dalam proses penguraian.
6. Sehubungan dengan itu, penggunaan FAA atau amino acid
amat baik untuk menentukan kesuburan pokok yang
meksima dan ketahan dari penyakit, serta untuk penghasilan
buah yang berkualiti dan meningkatkan production. Cara
untuk membuat FAA bulehlah di rujuk pada artikel dalam
Files yang sedia ada pada Group ini.
perbandingan kandungan FFJ pisang dan FAA ikan :
FFJ PISANG
N : 2% P2O5 : 0.2% K2O : 1.2% CaO : 0.2% MgO : 0.2% Fe :
55ppm Cu : 1ppm Zn : 9ppm Mn : 6ppm B : 2ppm
FAA IKAN
N :14.2% P2O5 : 1% K2O : 0.7% CaO : 0.8% MgO : 0.1% Fe :
61ppm Cu : 2ppm Zn : 10ppm Mn : 3ppm B : 2ppm
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[ ] August 21, 2015
BAJA FERTIGASI
SET A
Kalsium nitrat 19kg
potasium nitrat 2.5KG
Urea 550g
SET B
potasium nitrat 10KG
Magnesium sulfat 10kg
mkp 4kg
TE
Cu 8 g
Fe EDTA 200G
Zn EDTA 60G
Mn EDTA 65G
BORON 175G
Amm Molibdate 4G
Jadual Semburan Produk SRI untuk tanaman
Timun 747
By Norhisam Ramlan on Tuesday, 23 July 2013 at 10:20
Minggu 1 -
Hari Isnin :
50ml ( SRI ANAK ) + 50ml ( Mol Ikan ) + 50 ml ( Mol Kangkong )
+ 20 ml ( OHN ) /25 liter air @ 2 pam
Hari Khamis :
50ml (SRI ANAK) + 50ml (Mol Ikan ) + 50 ml( Mol Kangkong )+
20 ml ( OHN ) / 25 liter air @ 2 pam
Minggu 2
Hari Isnin :
100ml (SRI ANAK ) + 100ml (Mol Ikan ) +100 ml (Mol Kangkong )
+20 ml (OHN )/25 liter air@4 pam
Hari Khamis :
100ml (SRI ANAK ) + 100ml (Mol Ikan ) + 100 ml (Mol
Kangkong )+ 20 ml (OHN )/25 liter air@4 pam
Minggu 3
Hari Isnin :
150ml (SRI ANAK ) + 150ml (Mol Ikan ) + 150 ml (Mol
Kangkong )+ 60 ml ( OHN )/25 liter air@6 pam
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[ ] August 21, 2015
Hari Khamis :
150ml (SRI ANAK ) + 150ml (Mol Ikan ) + 150 ml (Mol
Kangkong )+ 60 ml ( OHN )/25 liter air@6 pam
Minggu 4
Hari Isnin :
150ml (SRI BUNGA ) + 150ml (Mol Ikan ) + 150 ml (Mol
Kangkong )+ 60 ml ( OHN )/25 liter air@6 pam
Hari Khamis :
150ml (SRI BUNGA ) + 150ml (Mol Ikan ) + 150 ml (Mol
Kangkong )+ 60 ml ( OHN )/25 liter air@6 pam
Minggu 5
Hari Isnin :
150ml (SRI BUAH ) + 150ml (Mol Ikan ) + 150 ml (Mol Pisang )+
60 ml ( OHN )/25 liter air@6 pam
Hari Khamis :
150ml (SRI BUAH ) + 150ml (Mol Ikan ) + 150 ml (Mol Pisang )+
60 ml ( OHN )/25 liter air@6 pam
Minggu 6
Hari Isnin :
150ml (SRI ANAK ) + 150ml (Mol Ikan ) + 150 ml (Mol Pisang )+
60 ml ( OHN )/25 liter air@6 pam
Hari Khamis :
150ml (SRI BUNGA ) + 150ml (Mol Ikan ) + 150 ml (Mol Pisang )+
60 ml ( OHN )/25 liter air@6 pam
Minggu 7
Hari Isnin :
150ml (SRI BUAH ) + 150ml (Mol Ikan ) + 150 ml (Mol Pisang )+
60 ml ( OHN )/25 liter air@6 pam
Hari Khamis :
150ml (SRI ANAK ) + 150ml (Mol Ikan ) + 150 ml (Mol Pisang )+
60 ml ( OHN )/25 liter air@6 pam
Penyediaan Baja Natural Farming ( produk SRI )
By Nurwahidah Hambali on Friday, 24 February 2012 at 22:43
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[ ] August 21, 2015
As salam pada semua kawan2, di kelapangan ini saya ingin
berkongsi pengalaman yang amat sedikit ini untuk perkongsian kita
bersama agar kita dapat berjimat dalam bidang pertanian yang amat
berisiko ini. ini pembelanjaran yang pertama ini saya akan tunjukkan
resepi salah satu bahan dalam baja SRI iaitu penyediaan FPJ
( Fermented Plant Juice )
BAHAN-BAHAN
Kangkong 1 kg
Gula Merah 1 kg
Pisau
Papan pemotong
bekas
Kain
pen marker
Cara2
Ambil kangkong liar yang berada dalam parit ( free, x payah beli ),
seelok2nya ambil awal pagi kerana masih terdapat hormon / enzim
yang amat baik pada masa itu. Potong kecil2 ( jangan basuh ),
masukkan dalam bekas dan campurkan dengan gula merah pada
kadar 1:1. selepas itu tutup bekas dengan kertas mahjung dan ikat
dengan dengan getah serta labelkan tarikh buat. ditapis pada hari ke -
7. cecair yer disimpan dalam botol, jangan rapatkan tutupnya. sisa
kangkong tadi boleh dibuat kompos atau diletak di bawah pokok
buah2an,bunga ( jangan letak banyak2), cukup sekadar kelilimg
pokok...mudah bukan.belajar buat MOL kangkong ini dulu.
berjumpa lagi di lain kali dengan resepi yang lain pula....respon jika
sudah belajar buat.terima kasih.
TEKNOLOGI PENANAMAN SECARA
FERTIGASI
By عبدالرحمن on Sunday, 9 March 2014 at 22:58 محمد
Fuad Fertigasi
TEKNOLOGI PENANAMAN SECARA FERTIGASI Fertigasi
berasal dari perkataan fertigation iaitu fertilizer & irrigation.
Fertigasi dapat ditakrifkan sebagai satu kaedah penanaman di mana
baja (dalam bentuk larutan/nutrient) diagihkan kepada zon akar
tanaman melalui sistem pengairan. Umumnya beberapa jenis sayur-
sayuran dari jenis buah sahaja yang sesuai ditanam menggunakan
sistem ini seperti cili merah, timun, tomato, terung, capsicum,
strawberi dan melon.
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[ ] August 21, 2015
Penanaman secara fertigasi bertujuan mengelakkan tanaman
daripada dijangkiti penyakit akar bawaan tanah.
Penggunaan Struktur Pelindung Hujan (SPH) adalah digalakkan
dalam penanaman secara fertigasi, walaubagaimana pun amalan
penanaman tanpa SPH masih boleh dijalankan. Fertigasi tanpa SPH
akan menyebabkan pengurusan air yang tidak terkawal akibat hujan.
Percikan hujan juga akan menyebabkan jangkitan penyakit daun dan
buah merebak dengan mudah.
Polibeg putih adalah disyorkan kerana ia dapat mengurangkan kadar
penyerapan haba dan mengelakkan kejadian pengumpulan akar padat
di bahagian tepi. Lain-lain bekas seperti polibeg hitam, pasu plastic
dan pasu tanah boleh juga digunakan. Setiap jenis mempunyai
kelebihan dan kelemahan yang tersendiri. Bekas tanaman hendaklah
boleh memuatkan sekurang-kurang 10 – 12 liter.
Media terbaik yang disyorkan untuk diisi ke dalam bekas tanaman
adalah coconut coir dust atau coco peat. Penggunaan coco peat
adalah murah dan mudah dibeli jika dibandingkan dengan
penggunaan media komersil seperti perlite atau vermiculite.
Pembekalan larutan baja dilakukan mengikut masa yang ditetapkan
dengan bantuan alat pengatur masa. Kekerapan dan tempoh masa
setiap penitisan bergantung kepada jenis tanaman dan peringkat
umur tanaman.
Untuk mendapatkan pengeluaran konsisten dengan kualiti hasil yang
tinggi pada tahap optima serta menguntungkan dalam penanaman
secara fertigasi, beberapa aspek perlu diberi tumpuan. Diantaranya
adalah penyediaan media, semaian, menggubah ke ladang, kawalan
perosak dan penyakit, kawalan terhadap sistem pengairan dan
saliran, kebersihan ladang, diagnosis masalah tanaman, pensterilan,
pengagihan nutrient serta perkara berkaitan fisiologi tanaman.
Antara keperluan asas untuk menjalankan kaedah penanaman
fertigasi ialah:
1. Sumber air bersih
2. Sistem pengairan
3. Rumah semaian
4. Baja (nutrient)
5. Media tanaman
6. Bekas tanaman di ladang dan semaian (polibeg dan dulang
semaian)
7. Biji benih terpilih
8. Struktur Pelindung Hujan (SPH)
9. Alat pengukur pH dan EC meter
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[ ] August 21, 2015
Teknologi penanaman tanaman terpilih menggunakan kaedah
fertigasi menjanjikan pulangan modal pelaburan sekiranya
dilaksanakan dengan betul dalam masa yang singka
KESAN MENGGUNAKAN BAJA COMPOUND
NPK PADA FERTIGASI
By عبدالرحمن on Tuesday, 4 March 2014 at 09:25 محمد
Kenapa tak guna baja NPK biasa untuk fertigasi. Jauh lagi murah,
lagi senang urus. Ok biar saya jelaskan disini.
1: tujuan kita buat fertigasi adalah untuk mendekatkan pertanian kita
kepada precision farming. Kita bagi cukup cukup baja dan air yang
diperlukan pokok untuk optimum output. Untuk dapat lebih kawalan
pada nutrient uptake plantation kita. Ini sukar untuk dikawal dengan
baja NPK. Contoh: Nitrogen dalam baja NPK adalah dalam bentuk
ammonium atau urea base. Ada juga yang ada campur dalam bentuk
Nitrate (biasa ni lagi mahal). Pokok kita ambil nitrogen dalam bentuk
Nitrate dan ammonium. Pengambilan dari bentuk ammonium adalah
perlahan disebabkan ia tidak mobile berbanding nitrate. Jadi akar
perlu cari baja ni, berbanding nitrate yang sendiri mobile kearah
akar. Bila ammonia tidak diambil, ia juga akan transform ke bentuk
nitrate (penjelasan dibawah) Dari ammonia, nutrient perlu lalui
process nitrification yang mana dalam process ini, nitrous oxide dan
nitric oxide dilepaskan ke udara, hilang nutrien kita disitu. Yang
paling merisaukan adalah, process nitrification ni ambil masa dari
beberapa hari, ke beberapa minggu. Bila sebenarnya pokok kita
dapat baja yang kita letak ni? Ruang legar nutrient ni kecil (16x18
dan sebagainya) kalau terlebih? terkurang? pengubahsuaian almost
impossible. Symptom kurang nitrogen dah mula kelihatan. Kita
tambah baja, minggu depan jadi nirogen toxicity pulak.. Process ini
juga kebanyakannya dilakukan oleh soil bacteria, pada cocopeat, not
very much. Perlu juga ambil kira leaching, pokok belum sempat
ambil baja, hujan, baja keluar dari polybag.
2: point 2 ni yang paling merisaukan, Urea Based NPK fertilizers
(paling murah). Untuk baja jenis ini, process nak ke nitrate lagi
panjang. Urea-hydrolysis-nitrification-plant uptake (nitrate) .
Kehilangan nutrient disini adalah jauh lebih tinggi. % nitrogen yang
sampai ke pokok sangat rendah. Lagi teruk ialah fact yang process
hydrolysis ini mengalkalikan tanah dalam short term, tetapi selepas
itu mengasidkan tanah. Application mengalkalikan tanah, pelepasan
carbon-dioxide dari process hydrolysis mengasidkan tanah. Dah PH
medium tak stable. Ni Antara sebab air dan tanah dikawasan ladang
sawit sangat acidic. Banyak urea application. Kalau ini diamalkan ke
cocopeat, boleh hampir pasti selepas satu musim, tuan puan dah kene
tukar medium tanaman sebab terlalu berasid. Yang dah cuba
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[ ] August 21, 2015
mungkin dah rasa. Cost tukar media tanaman, rasa kita semua pun
well aware.
2 points sahaja saya letak sini harini. Jadi kepada yang terfikir nak
cuba, ini Antara yang perlu anda ambil kira. Mencelah sikit, tengah
bulan ni saya ada buat penghantaran baja fertigasi Yara ke tanjung
malim. Kepada sesiapa di kawasan perak nak order baja dan jimat
cost penghantaran, sila order secepat mungkin. Ada ruang untuk 20
sets lagi. Call/sms/whatsapp Adam (012 771 7863) email:
Baja Fertigasi Cili Untuk Pertumbuhan -
Mohammad Abdul Rahman
By عبدالرحمن on Sunday, 14 August 2011 at 21:24 محمد
salam dan selamat menjalankan ibadah puasa pada keluarga BJ
semua, di sebabkan banyak posting berkaitan pengiraan untuk
membuat baja fertigasi dah hilang kena godam, saya cuba copy &
paste apa yang saya postkan kat " 1 MALAYSIA FERTGASI" group
dalam facebook, untuk rujukan semua sila copy &paste kat dokumen
sendiri supaya tidak hilang dan jadikan sebagai rujukan:
pengiraan untuk baja cili peringkat pertumbuhan: pada masa ni
pokok perlukan : 240ppm N, 50ppm P, 280ppm K, 50ppm Mg,
170ppm Ca, 6ppm Fe, Mn 2ppm, Cu o.07ppm, Zn 0.25ppm , B
0.7ppm, Mo 0.05ppm
dari nilai keperluan ppm , kita akan kira berat bahan satu persatu
untuk dapatkan ppm Ca, kita gunakan calcium nitrate bergred Ca
19% dan N 15.5%:
ppm Ca 170ppm, jadi berat bahan baja CaNO3 = 170/0.19
=894.736mg, tapi stok kita 100lit dan kadar bancuhan 1:100, jadi
berat CaNO3 =( 894.736 x 100 x 100)/(1000 x 1000)
=8.947kg>>1000 x 1000 tu adalah conversion dari mg ke gm ke kg
ok sekarang kita sudah dapat berat bahan CaNO3 untuk dapatkan
170ppm Ca, dari berat bahan tersebut, kita kira pula berapa ppm N
yang terkandung: berat CaNO3 = 8.947kg = 8,947,000mg, bahagi
balik dengan stok dan mix ratio = 8,947,000/(100 x 100) =
894.700mg/lit, jadi nilai ppm N terkandung = 894.700 x 15.5% =
139mg/lit = 139ppm, kita masih kekurangan ( 240-139) = 101ppm
N....nanti kita guna bahan lain untuk dapatkan nilai N yang tak cukup
ni
supaya N dan K balance semasa pengiraan kita kena andaikan N
=220ppm, jadi N sebenar tak mencukupi = 220-139=81ppm.
nilai ppm N yang tak di kira ( 240-220) = 20ppm
note: sebenarnya masa pertumbuhan awal kita buleh naikan N
260ppm untuk kesuburan awal, tuan2 buleh setkan N 250ppm, jadi N
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[ ] August 21, 2015
yang tak termasuk pengiraan ni = 250-220ppm = 30ppm, untuk
dapatkan N ni kita guna bahan baja yang ada N sja spt Ammnium
nitrate AN...yang ni kita kira trakhir sekali
__________________
sekarang kita kira ppm bahan untuk dapatkan N 81ppm
kita gunakan Potassium nitrate PN, dalam PN ada 13.85%N dan
38.6%K
kita kira berat PN untuk dapatkan 81ppm N
berat PN = 81ppm/13.85% = 584.8375mg/lit, untuk stokk 100lit dan
mix 1:100, berat PN = 584.8375 x 100 x 100 = 5,848,375mg =
5.85kg
Berat bahan PN = 5.85kg; dalam bahan ni ada K, jadi kita kira nilai
ppm K : ppm K = 584.8375mg/lit x 38.6% =226ppm K,
tapi kita perlukan 280ppm K, jadi kita masih kena cari lagi ( 280-
226) = 54ppm K...........nanti kita gunakan MKP ( monopotassium
phosphate) untuk dapatkan 54ppm K ni
dari MKP kita akan dapat ppm P dan K, dari jadual kehendak kita
perlukan 50ppm P:
dalam MKP ada 22.78% P dan 28.73% K
brat bahan MKP untukl dapatkan 50ppm P = 50ppm/22.78% =
219.491mg; berat untuk stok 100 lit dan mix 100 = 2,194,91omg =
2.19kg MKP
sebenarnya kita buleh setkan keperluan baja mengikut bulan atau
minggu, contohnya kalu minggu pertama, kita perlukan ppm spt
diatas, tapi bila pokok besar sikit kita perlukan Mg dan P tinggi
sikit, katakan P 55ppm dan Mg55ppm dan K 300ppm, jadi kalu kita
gunakan excell, dan masukan variable tersebut, secara automatik di
kira berat bahan, jadi baja kita tak static, contohnya jika bancuhan
batch pertama dah habis dalam seminggu, kita buleh bancuh batch
kedua denagn nilai ppm berlainan, jadi pokok akan merasa lebih sikit
keperluan bila masuk minggu kedua dan sterusnya
untuk menaikan ppm element memang kita buleh naikan ec atau
TDS, tapi cara ni akan menaikan semua element baja, sedangkan kita
nak sesetengah element saja tinggi, dan mengekal sukatan element
lain, atau nak turunkan element lain dan nak naikkan element lain
back to kuliah>>>> kita sudah dapat berat MKP = 2.19 kg, sekarang
kita kira berapa ppm K terkandung;
percent K dalam MKP = 28.73%
nilai ppm K = 219.40mg x 28.73% = 63ppm
sekarang kita dah berlebihan (63-54) = 9ppm K
ppm K terlebih sikit tak mengapa, tapi jangan melebih tinggi sangat,
jadi kalau mau tepat kita kena kurangkan ppm N untuk pengiraan
dari 220 ke 210 atau 200 ppm, bila kita kurangkan ke 215ppm , K
dari PN akan berkurang:
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[ ] August 21, 2015
sekarang nilai N yang di perlukan menjadi ( 215-139)=76 ppm
139 adalah nilai ppm N dari CN
jadi berat baru PN = 76ppm/13.85% = 548.736mg/lit
berat bahan PN pada 100lit stok dan 1:100 mix ratio
=(548.736 x 100 x 100)/1000 x 1000 = 5.48 kg
Nilai ppm K dari 5.48 kg PN = 548.736 x 38.6% = 212 ppm
sekaran kita kurang ( 280-212)= 58 ppm
tapi K yang didapati dari MKP = 63ppm
jadi kelebihan 63-58 = 5ppm..........
jadi jumlah K semua dari PN dan MKP = 212 + 63ppm = 285 ppm
nilai 285 ppm dikira baik untuk pertumbuhan, jadi tak perlu lagi di
tambah K2SO4.
jadi nilai ppm N di dapati dari CN dan PN= 139-76 =
215ppm.....nilai ni
jadi kita tertinggal lagi 35ppm N .....nanti kita kira ambil dari AN
K dari PN + MKP = 212 + 63 = 275 ppm. Bukan 285 ppm.
Pembetulan!
dari pengiraan diatas, kita dapat berat bahan spt berikut :
CaNO3..... 8.95kg
KNO3........5.48 kg
MKP .........2.19 kg
sekarang kita kira pula berat MgSO4 yang memberi kita 50ppm Mg
percentage Mg terkandung dalam MgSO4 adalah 9.80%
jadi berat MgsO4 = 50ppm / 9.80% = 510mg/lit
berat untuk 100lit stok dan mix ratio 1:100 = (510 x 100 x100)/(1000
x 1000) = 5.10 kg
Berat Magnesium sulfate adala 5.10kg
__________________
pengiraan ppm N yang tak mencukupi sebanyak (250-215) = 35ppm,
kita andaikan bahawa ppm N adalah 250 ppm untuk pertumbuhan
vegetative yang cepat
kita gunakan ammonium nitrate AN, dalam bahan ni terdapat 34% N
berat AN untuk dapatkan 35ppm N = 35ppm/34% = 102.9411mg/lit
untuk stok 100lit dan mix ratio 1:100,
Berat AN = (102.9411 x 100 x100)/(1000 x 1000) = 1.03kg (1.0 kg)
dimanakah harus AN di masukan , stok A atau Stok B ???, untuk
kebaikan bancuhan kelak, di sarankan stok berasing stok C, untuk
stok C ni tak perlulah guna tong 100 lit, memadai guna bekas 25 lit
sahaja, untuk 1kg AN, ianya mudah terlarut walaupun dalam air
sedikit 25 lit.
bila menggunakan stok begini, setiap lit stok A dan B, kita perlu 1/4
lit stok C sahaja untuk di masukkan dalam tangki baja.
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[ ] August 21, 2015
selain menggunakan AN, kita buleh gunakan diammonium
phosphate DAP, DAP mempunyai grad NPK 18:46:0, 46 % tu
adalah phosphate, jadi percent element P = 46 x 0.43 = 19.78 % P
jadi berat DAP untuk dapatkan 35ppm N = 35ppm/18% =
194.444mg/lit
untuk stok 100 lit dan mix 1:100, berat DAP = (194.444 x 100 x
100)/(1000 x 1000) = 1.94 kg
dalam DAP ni ada 19.8% P, jadi ppm P = 194.44 x 19.8% = 38ppm
jadi kalu kita guna DAP, total ppm P = 50 (dari MAP) = 38 (dari
DAP) = 88ppm
saya menggunakan DAP masa pertumbuhan walaupun total ppm P
tinggi, pada waktu awal pertumbuhan P tinggi amat baik untuk
pembentukan akar yang banya dengan cepat, dan kesuburan amat
baik bila banyak akar menyedut nutrients. DAP pun buleh letak juga
kat stok C 25 lit.
perlu di ingat, DAP amat alkali, jadi bancuhan baja kita akan tinggi
pH sampai 7 lebih, untuk itu, kita kena pakai nitrik asid atau
phosphoric atau sulfuric asid untuk menurunkan pH.
Dan jika kita bancuh baja untuk peroduction, biasanya pH akan turun
sampai 5, jadi menambah sedikit sedikit DAP akan menaikan pH
yang di perlukan, kita tak perlu KOH..........juga amat baik sebab
masa production kita tambah P yang amat di perlukan di sanping K
dari K2SO4, masa ni P 70-80ppm
selesai pengiraan macro:
CaNO3..... 8.95kg
KNO3........5.48 kg
MKP .........2.19 kg
MgSO4.......5.10 kg
AN..........1.00 kg
DAP......1.90 kg ( optional)
kita masuk pula bahagia pengiraan micro element:
Fe,Cu,ZN,Mn,B,Mo
nota:
:apa baja yg dibolehkan tuk baja A dan Baja B,Cthnya baja A
selalunya mengandungi CaNO3 dan Fe EDTA atau boleh
ditambahkan Ammoniuum nitrat? dan baja B setengah kata PN
dalam baja B,atau boleh masuk Dalam A dan B untuk PN?
kalu ikutkan kajian kimia secara sceintific " never mix nitrates dan
phospahate atu sulfate" jadi kita taklehlah bih 1/2 PN kat stok B..tapi
mardi atau JP dia boh kat B...sebab tu baja jadi keladak hasil
tindakbalas kimia
kenapa sestengah formula orang yang jual baja dan juga mardi dan
JP boh 1/2 PN dalam B....saya rasa untuk balancekan berat guni A
dan B
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[ ] August 21, 2015
dar formula atas berat stok A 14.84 kg dan berat sto B
8.70kg...paking begini susah bagi mereka untuk transport, jadi kena
seimbanglah berat A dan B,
buleh tambah urae dalam tangki baja, tapi tak buleh boh dalam stok.
kita kiralah berap ppm N kita mau, contoh kita mau tambah 20ppm
N, jadi berat urea = 20ppm/46% = 43.47mg/lit, kalu tanki baja kita
muat 2,000 lit sekali bancuh, berat urea = 43.47 x 2000 = 86956mg =
87 gm sahaja......elok buat begini, nak pakai baru boh dalam tangki
__________________
kita bincang pengiraan untuk micro Fe, untuk dapatkan Fe buleh
guna FeSO4 atau Fe-Edta.......biasanya kita gunakan edta sebab
senang dapat di pasaran: dalam Fe-Edta ada 13% Fe ( kalu lain
percent buleh ejas ikut cara kira )
kita perlukan Fe 6ppm, jadi berat edta = 6ppm/13% = 46.153
untuk 100 lit stok dan mix ratio 1:100, beart Fe-Edta = (46.153 x 100
x 100)/(1000 ) = 461gm
Berat Fe-Edta adalah 460gm (ok)
pengiraan berat micro B dari boric acid, dalam boric terkandung
17.5% boron...( tuan2 cek balik mungkin boric asid tuan lain nilai
percentnya..sebab bergantung pada hydrous atau unhydrous) saya
guna kandunagn 17.5%.....kita perlukan 0.7ppm B
Berat boric acid = 0.7ppm/17.5% = 4.0000mg, berat untuk stok
100lit dan mix ratio 1:100 ;
(4.00 x 100 x 100)/(1000) = 40gm
Berat boric acid ( 17.5% B) = 40gm.
kalau guna hibor, berat = 0.7 ppm/60% = 1.1667mg
Berat HIBOR di gunakan = 11.67gm ...(12gm ok)
pengiraan micro Mn dari Mn-Edta...terkandung 13% Mn
keperluan Mn 2ppm; berat edta = 2ppm/13% = 15.38mg
untuk stok 100lit dan mix ratio 1:100
Berat Edta = 15.38 x 100 x 100/1000 = 154 gm
pengiraan berat Zn-Edta ,percent Zn terkandung 14%, ppm Zn di
perlukan 0.25ppm
berat Edta = 0.25ppm/14% =1.785mg
berat untuk stok 100 lit dan mix ratio 1:100 ; 1.785 x 100 x 100/1000
= 17.85gm ( 18gm ok)
Berat Zn-EDta ialah 18 gm
Pengiraan berat Cu-Edta untuk dapatkan 0.07ppm Cu, percent Cu
terkandung dalam Edta adalah 14%.
berat edta di perlukan = 0.07ppm/14% = 0.50mg/lit
berat untuk stok 100 lit dan mix ratio 1:100 = 0.5 x 100 x 100/1000 =
5.0 gm
Berat Cu-Edta yang patut di gunakan adalah 5.00 gm
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[ ] August 21, 2015
Pengiraan berat sodium molybdate, 39% Mo ( cek kandungan
percent yang tuan2 guna), keperluan Mo 0.05ppm.
berat sodium molibdate = 0.05ppm/39% = 0.128mg/lit
berat untuk stok 100 lit dan mix ratio 1:100 = 0.128 x 100x100/1000
= 1.28gm ( 1gm ok)
berat sodium molibdate adalah 1.0 gm
Ringkasan:
Formula cili untuk pertumbuhan awal ( vegetative phase)
stok A
CaNO3..... 8.95kg
KNO3........5.48 kg
Fe-Edta......460 gm
Stok B
MKP .........2.19 kg
MgSO4.......5.10 kg
AN..........1.00 kg
DAP......1.90 kg ( optional)
Mn-Edta .....154gm
Cu-Edta........5.0 gm
Zn-Edta........ 18.0 gm
Boric asid.......40 gm atau
Hibor............12.0 gm
Sodium molybdate ... 1.0 gm
Formula ini di gunakan untuk pertumbuhan awal, bila sudah nampak
bunga, tukarlah formula untk pembajaan production
pada taha vegetative, keperluan NPK amat tinggi, untuk itu,
penggunaan EC bermula 1.2 selepas pindah dan di naikan perlahan
sampai ec 2.3 sampai nampak bunga....kenikan EC buleh di laras
setiap 3 hari sekali, pH tahap ni tinggikan sikit kepada 6.2 untuk
mengoptimumkan serapan NPK untuk pertumbuhan awal, pH di
turunkan bila pokok mencapai fasa production pH 5.8-
6.2....bergantung juga jenis media di gunakan, kalu 100% sabut
maintain 6.2 amat baik, sebab dalam media sabut baja akan men jadi
pH 6 atau kurang, kalu campuran dengan sekam padi buleh kekalkan
pH 6, sekam buleh bertindak sebagai pH buffer
guna dari stok C 1/4 lit saja untuk setiap lit stok A dan B...masuk
dalam tangki baja
--------------- NOTA ----------------
CaNO3>>calcium nitrate
KNO3 >> potassium ( kalium) nitrate
MgSO4 >>Magnesium sulfate
MKP >>> monopotassium phosphate
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[ ] August 21, 2015
K2SO4 >>>potassium sulfate
DAP >>diammonium phosphate
AN >>ammonium nitrate
RESEPI MEDIA POLIBAG ATAU BATAS
TANAH - Mohammad Abdul Rahman
By عبدالرحمن on Wednesday, 30 January 2013 at 11:43 محمد
Recipes for Success: Building Your Own Organic Potting Soil
January 2013
People choose do-it-yourself projects for many reasons. Some like
the satisfaction of completing a task on their own, while others like
the idea of having absolute control over their materials, methods and
finished product. Another reason people choose do-it-yourself
projects is price. Generally speaking, providing your own labor will
produce a product for a much low price than hiring out the work
would.
Building your own organic potting soil is no different than any other
do-it-yourself project. It allows the gardener to save money while
maintaining control over every aspect of the soil building process.
Some might also argue that it produces a superior product.
However, before we dive into soil recipes, let’s first examine some
of the more common ingredients used in potting soils. There is no
shortage of organic soil amendments to choose from. Once an
understanding of the physical properties and nutrient value of each
ingredient is reached it then becomes possible to customize soil
mixtures not only for particular crops, but also for specific periods in
a plant’s life cycle (blooming or flowering periods).
Base ingredients
The base ingredients of a soil are the substances that make up the
bulk of the soil itself. These are the ingredients that are most
responsible for the soil’s physical properties and texture. Some of
these also make up the backbone of the nutrient content.
Sphagnum peat moss
Sphagnum peat moss has been a popular soil additive since the
inception of potting soils. The physical properties of peat moss allow
for high moisture retention, as well as high oxygen content. This
combination of water and oxygen retention makes a great
environment for developing roots and is the main reason peat moss is
the most popular ingredient in premade potting soils. It is not
uncommon for peat moss to make up 30 to 60% of a premade soil
mixture.
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[ ] August 21, 2015
Coco coir
Many soil companies are incorporating coco coir (coconut husks) as
either the base or secondary ingredient in their potting soil mixes.
Coco coir is a by-product of the coconut industry and is more
environmentally friendly than sphagnum peat moss. It is able to hold
moisture and oxygen like peat moss; in fact, it actually has slightly
higher oxygen retention. This fact alone has made coco coir’s
popularity increase among indoor gardeners and greenhouse
horticulturalists.
Compost
Compost is a general term referring to aged and broken down
organic matter. It can be made from a number of different sources,
but it’s usually derived from plant material or manure. Although
compost usually isn’t used in as high of a volume as peat moss or
coco coir, its role as a base ingredient is just as crucial. Not only
does compost have significant nutrient value, but it also provides an
abundance of microbial life to the soil mixture. These beneficial
microorganisms are the foundation for nutrient uptake and the
stimulation of root development.
Worm castings
Like compost, worm castings—or, vermicompost—are a significant
source of nutrient value and beneficial microorganisms. Revered by
many organic growers as the best soil additive available, worm
castings are known to enrich soils and improve disease resistance in
crops. If you choose to use worm castings as an ingredient in your
potting soil, be sure to purchase pure worm castings. There are many
products on the market that are labeled as worm castings but only
contain a small percentage of actual worm castings in their
composition.
Aeration additives
Perlite
Perlite is expanded volcanic glass and adds air pockets to soils. Soils
with added perlite will dry out quickly between each watering, which
gives a grower more control over a feeding regiment. Perlite is light
weight and relatively inexpensive, which makes it the most popular
choice among commercial potting soil manufacturers.
Pumice
Pumice is a type of volcanic rock that is naturally porous. Like
perlite, pumice has the ability to add air pockets in a soil, which
results in higher oxygen content around the plant’s roots. Pumice is
less commonly used by commercial manufacturers, however, simply
because it is heavy and, therefore, expensive to ship.
Individual organic ingredients
By using individual organic ingredients along with the base, a
grower can tailor their soil to meet the needs of any crop. Most of the
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[ ] August 21, 2015
following ingredients can be obtained at your local hydroponic
retailer or local garden supply store.
Common nitrogen (N) ingredients:
Blood meal
This is an extremely rich, fast-releasing nitrogen source. Blood meal
is a great additive for plants that require high amounts of nitrogen.
Fish meal
Fish meal is another fast-releasing nitrogen source. It’s a great
nitrogen additive that enhances microbial life in the soil. Fish meal
also contains a significant amount of phosphorus, which helps trigger
root development.
Feather meal
Feather meal is a slow-releasing nitrogen source best used on plants
that require high amounts of nitrogen over a three to four month
period.
Soybean meal
This slow-releasing nitrogen source is not quite as slow as feather
meal. It’s a great additive for plants that require adequate nitrogen
for two to three months and that need a little phosphorus boost to
help promote fruiting or flowering.
Bat guano (high nitrogen)
There are many compositions of bat guano on the market, including
high-nitrogen bat guano. High-nitrogen bat guano is rich in
micronutrients, beneficial microbes and, of course, nitrogen. This
beneficial diversity combined with fast-releasing nitrogen makes
high-nitrogen bat guano the fertilizer of choice for many organic
growers.
Common phosphorus (P) ingredients:
Bat guano (high phosphorus)
High-phosphorus bat guano is an excellent source of phosphorus that
is known to not only increase flower and fruit sets, but also their size,
aroma and flavor. Many brands of high-phosphorus bat guano are
also a great source of calcium.
Bone meal
This excellent source of phosphorous is revered for its ability to
promote strong root development. Bone meal is also a great source
of calcium.
Fish bone meal
Fish bone meal is basically the same thing as bone meal except it is
derived from fish. It is a great source of phosphorus and calcium.
Seabird guano
Seabird guano, like bat guano, is known to increase the amount and
size of flower and fruit sets. It is also an excellent source of
phosphorus and micronutrients.
Rock phosphate
Rock phosphate is a slow-releasing phosphorus source that is
commonly extracted into a liquid form to increase availability. It is
21
[ ] August 21, 2015
best used for plants that need a slow and constant release of
phosphorus.
Common potassium (K) ingredients:
Hardwood ash
This is the original source of potash fertilizers. Hardwood ash can be
used as a direct soil additive to increase potassium levels; however,
most of the time, it has already been added to the compost for that
same purpose.
Kelp meal
Kelp meal is a source of readily available potassium and a variety of
micronutrients and plant hormones. This great soil additive can
increase overall plant health and vigor.
Greensand
Greensand is a slow-releasing potassium source. Generally speaking,
greensand is used to improve soil’s condition rather than boost
potassium content.
Langbeinite
Langbeinite is a natural occurring mineral which is water soluble. It
is a good source of potassium, sulfur and magnesium.
Secondary and trace elements:
Oyster shell
This is an excellent source of calcium that will accelerate root
development and, in turn, improve nutrient uptake. Oyster shell also
works as a pH buffer, helping to keep the soil from becoming too
acidic.
Dolomite lime (sweet lime)
Dolomite lime is a great pH buffer for any soil composition and—
like oyster shell—it ensures the soil’s pH doesn’t turn too acidic. It
also a rich source of calcium and magnesium.
Glacier Rock Dust
This soil amendment revitalizes trace elements and provides a
foundation of minerals for healthy plant growth.
Alfalfa meal
Alfalfa meal is rich in trace elements, but it’s the abundance of
natural growth stimulators in this product that has gained recognition
among organic horticulturalists. Alfalfa meal will accelerate growth
rates while promoting abundant fruit or flowers.
Beneficial microorganisms
Although many common soil ingredients already contain a good
amount of beneficial microorganisms, it has become second nature
for many organic gardeners to supplement additional
microorganisms into their soil. Three beneficial microorganisms are
commonly used by horticulturalists are trichoderma, mycorrhiza and
bacteria.
Soil recipes
22
[ ] August 21, 2015
As written, the recipes below will produce around 2 cu. ft. of soil—
or, roughly the amount you would find in a single large bag of
potting soil. Of course, the ingredients can be proportionally
increased or decreased to produce the desired amount of potting soil.
Also, feel free to add your favorite beneficial microorganism
supplement to increase the beneficial microbial population. Indeed,
do not take these recipes as though they were written in stone. Use
them as a reference or as a way to inspire some thought into the
nutrient content of your own potting soil and how this coincides with
the life cycle of your plants.
To make each mix, simply combine all of the ingredients by hand,
rake or shovel in a kiddie pool, tarp, large wash bin or plastic storage
container. Just make sure to mix the ingredients thoroughly to ensure
a uniform soil mixture.
Basic potting soil recipe
This basic recipe creates a soil with a high air-to-water ratio and can
be used for almost any variety of plant. This is a great soil recipe for
growers wishing to complement their homemade soils with liquid
teas or fertilizers. This is also a great starting recipe to use as the
foundation for custom, plant-specific soils, which can be created by
with addition of other individual ingredients.
1/2 cu. ft. (60 cups) compost
1/2 cu. ft. (60 cups) sphagnum peat moss
1/2 cu. ft. (60 cups) coco coir
20 cups perlite
5 cups worm castings
1/2 cup oyster shell
2 tbsp. langbeinite
1 tbsp. glacier rock dust
Enhanced vegetative potting soil recipe
This nitrogen-rich soil mixture is great for the vegetative stage of
fast-growing annual plants that will later be transplanted, or for green
leafy crops that spend their whole life cycle in a perpetual vegetative
stage. This mix is very well-aerated and will promote strong root
growth and vigorous vegetative growth.
1/2 cu. ft. (60 cups) sphagnum peat moss
1/4 cu. ft. (30 cups) coco coir
1/4 cu. ft. (30 cups) compost
1/4 cu. ft. (30 cups) perlite
10 cups worm castings
10 cups pumice
2 cups fish meal
1 cup oyster shell
1/2 cup alfalfa meal
1/2 cup soybean meal
1/4 cup kelp meal
1/4 cup fish bone meal
2 tbsp. langbeinite
23
[ ] August 21, 2015
1 tbsp. glacier rock dust
Enhanced fruit/flower potting soil recipe
This soil recipe is designed for plants that are ready to fruit or
flower. In particular, this recipe works great for ornamentals that are
already in bloom and for fast-growing annuals that are entering their
fruiting or flowering stage.
1/2 cu. ft. (60 cups) sphagnum peat moss
1/4 cu. ft. (30 cups) coco coir
1/4 cu. ft. (30 cups) compost
1/4 cu. ft. (30 cups) perlite
10 cups pumice
5 cups worm castings
3 cups bat guano (high phosphorus)
1 cup fish bone meal
1 cup oyster shell
1/2 cup seabird guano
1/4 cup alfalfa meal
1/4 cup fish meal
2 tbsp. langbeinite
1 tbsp. glacier rock dust
Entire life cycle soil recipe (for heavy feeders)
This soil mixture is designed to meet the demands of heavy feeding,
fast-growing annual plants throughout their entire life cycle. This
soil is powerful and should only be used on plant varieties that are
known to be heavy feeders. The organic fertilizers in this soil
mixture will sustain a heavy-feeding crop for about three months.
The soil is designed to break down in a manner that first delivers
readily available nitrogen for a vigorous vegetative stage (for about a
month) then, as the soil’s composition changes, it will start to release
more elements specific to fruiting/flowering.
1/2 cu. ft. (60 cups) compost
1/2 cu. ft. (60 cups) sphagnum peat moss
1/2 cu. ft. (60 cups) coco coir
1/4 cu. ft. (30 cups) perlite
20 cups pumice
15 cups worm castings
2 cups blood meal
2 cups fish meal
2 cups bat guano (high phosphorus)
1 cup oyster shell
1 cup dolomite lime
1 cup soybean meal
1 cup bat guano (high nitrogen)
1 cup bone meal
1 cup fish bone meal
1 cup rock phosphate
24
[ ] August 21, 2015
3 tbsp. langbeinite
1.5 tbsp. glacier rock dust
Although the process of building your own organic potting soil can
be somewhat labor intensive (especially on a large scale), it is a
relatively easy process overall that can be extremely rewarding. Not
only is there a sense of accomplishment when you complete a
homemade potting soil, but it is also a stride forward in creating the
ultimate diet for your plants. Growers who build soils specific to
their crop’s ideal nutritional intake will not only see heightened
garden performance, but less nutrient deficiencies, diseases, insect
infestations and any other problems associated with an incomplete
diet. Through your own experiments, you can find the perfect blend
of ingredients required by your plants to enhance their performance
and achieve optimal results.
PENYAKIT CILI- ANTRAKNOS DAN LAIN2:
By عبدالرحمن on Friday, 11 October 2013 at 22:39 محمد
Antracnose
Antracnose dikenal juga dengan istilah “pathek” adalah penyakit
yang hingga saat ini masih menjadi momok bagi petani cabai. Buah
yang menunggu panen dalam beberapa waktu berubah menjadi
busuk oleh penyakit ini. Gejala awal dari serangan penyakit ini
adalah bercak yang agak mengkilap, sedikit terbenam dan berair,
buah akan berubah menjadi coklat kehitaman dan membusuk.
Ledakan penyakit ini sangat cepat pada musim hujan. Penyebab
penyakit ini adalah jamur carnifora capsici.Pengendalian
membersikan tanaman yang terserang agar tidak menyebar, saat
pemilihan benih harus kita lakukan secara selektif, menanam benih
cabai yang memiliki ketahanan terhadap penyakit pathek. Secara
kimia, disemprot dengan fungisida sistemik berbahan aktif
triadianefon dicampur dengan fungisida kontak berbahan aktif
tembaga hidroksida seperti Kocide 54WDG, atau yang berbahan
aktif Mankozeb seperti Victory 80WP.
Layu Bakteri
Penyakit ini disebabkan oleh Pseudomonas solanacearum. Gejalanya
tanaman yang sehat tiba-tiba saja layu yang dalam waktu tidak
sampai 3 hari tanaman mati. Bakteri ini ditularkan melalui tanah,
benih, bibit, sisa tanaman, pengairan,nematoda atau alat-alat
pertanian.Pengendalian membuang tanaman yang terserang, tetap
menjaga bedengan tanaman selalu dalam kondisi kering, rotasi
tanaman. Secara kimiawi, semprot dengan larutan Kocide 77WP
konsentrasi 5 - 10 gr/liter pada lubang tanam sebanyak 200
ml/tanaman interval 10 - 14 hari dan dimulai saat tanaman mulai
berbunga.
Virus Kuning (gemini virus)
Vektor virus kuning adalah whitefly atau kutu kebul (Bemisia
tabaci). Telur diletakkan di bawah daun, fase telur hanya 7 hari.
25
[ ] August 21, 2015
Nimpa bertungkai yang berfungsi untuk merangkak lama hidup 2-6
hari. Pupa berbentuk oval, agak pipih berwarna hijau keputih-putihan
sampai kekuning-kuningan pupa terdapat dibawah permukaan daun,
lama hidup 6 hari. Serangga dewasa berukuran kecil, berwarna putih
dan mudah diamati karena dibawah permukaan daun yang bertepung,
lama hidup 20-38 hari. Tanaman yang terserang penyakit virus
kuning menimbulkan gejala daun mengeriting dan ukuran lebih
kecil.Pengendalian dilakukan dengan menanam varietas yang agak
tahan (contoh cabai keriting Bukittinggi), menggunakan bibit yang
sehat, melakukan rotasi /pergiliran tanaman, pemanfaatan tanaman
border seperti tagetes atau jagung, pemasangan perangkap kuning
sekaligus mengendalikan kutu kebul, serta eradikasi tanaman sakit
yaitu tanaman yang menunjukkan gejala dicabut dan dibakar.
Antraknos menjadi penyakit yang muncul ke 2, setelah diawali
dengan adanya sunscall. Sunscall biasanya akan dimulai dari buah
yang berada pada sisi timur.Sunscall bukan penyakit tetapi bisa
merupakan penyebap/pemicu, munculnya penyakit seperti antraknos.
Cuka Kayu by Azrin Hashim
By Imran Faizal on Friday, 4 October 2013 at 16:09
Banyak manfaat boleh didapati dari Cuka kayu dalam sektor
Pertanian.
1. Dapat menghalang pembiakan virus dan penyakit dalam tanah.
2. Dapat menghalang virus dan menghalau serangga perosak
untuk memperbaiki keadaan tanah.
3. Dapat mengurangkan kerosakan oleh penyakit tumbuh-
tumbuhan dan serangga berbahaya walaupun penanaman
berulang kali
4. Dapat mengurangkan 50% racun perosak pertanian komersial,
racun kulat, racun herba dan baja kimia.
5. Merangsang pertumbuhan pokok dan sayuran.
6. Menguatkan akar dan daun.
7. Menyuburkan tanah.
8. Menambah kuantiti mikrob yang berguna.
9. Mengelakkan penyakit yang disebabkan oleh bakteria.
10. Menambah baik kualiti buah dan menambah kandungan gula
dalam buah.
26
[ ] August 21, 2015
11. Sebagai pemangkin tumbesaran biji benih.
12. Sebagai bahan tambahan kepada baja kompos.
13. Membantu haiwan ternakan lebih sihat dan melindungi dari
penyakit. Menjadikan daging haiwan dan susu lebih berkualiti.
Aplikasi & Penggunaan Pertanian
1.Untuk kawalan makhluk perosak dan mikroorganisma pada
lubang tanaman, cairkan pada nisbah 1:50 (cuka kayu : air) 10
hari sebelum menanam, siramkan pada lubang tanaman.
2.Untuk mengelakkan hama dalam proses pembenihan, cairkan
pada nisbah 1:800, semburkan pada benih di tapak semaian
setiap 10 hari.
3.Untuk mengawal makhluk perosak dan membunuh kulat
merbahaya, cairkan pada nisbah 1:200, semburkan pada pucuk
dan daun seminggu sekali.
4.Untuk membasmikuman dan meneutralkan pH tanah, cairkan
pada nisbah 1:300, siramkan pada akar pokok.
5.Untuk mengurangkan buah gugur dan menambah kualiti buah,
cairkan pada nisbah 1:500, semburkan pada putik buah.
6.Untuk kawalan serangga, gunakan pada kecairan 1:1000 dan
campurkan dengan 50% kepekatan racun serangga dari biasa.
7.Untuk kawalan rumpai/lumut, nisbah 1:5, semburkan terus
pada rumpai/lumut.
CILI MERAH - INFO HYBRID-Mohammad
Abdul Rahman
By عبدالرحمن on Monday, 29 July 2013 at 13:31 محمد
Info hibrid cili merah
MC 11 -Tinggi pokok 80-110 cm,
-panjang buah 8-10 cm, 7-10g/biji
MC 12 -Tinggi pokok 60-80 cm,
-panjang buah 10-13 cm, 12 – 14 g/biji,
hybrid F1 469 -180 biji sepokok
-ketinggian pokok 35 cm
hybrid 833
-ketinggian pokok 2- 6 kaki
-55 biji berat utk 1 kg buah bagi sepokok
s469
- amat pedas, bukan plastik, besar mencecah 20cm.
-amat besar, maka ia kurang sesuai untuk tanaman secara komersial
- kurang digemari pengguna.
-1gm (140-150biji)
27
[ ] August 21, 2015
568
- kurang pedas, bukan plastik, rupa dan saiz = Kulai.
Kulai tempatan
-amat sesuai untuk tanaman secara komersial
-lebih pedas dan mudah dihancurkan tidak liat mudah dibuat sos
hybrid 568
-Buah pertama 40-90 biji (40-45 biji/kg)
-setiap pkk leh menghasilkan 2-2.5 kg.
-Tinggi pkk 4 kaki -buah kurang pedas -sambil berbuah sambil
berpucuk @ berbunga..
-Pasaran tiada masalah langsung.
Perbandingan Kulai Tempatan, Kulai 568, F1 469
- Kulai Tempatan pokoknya terlalu besar, 568 kecik, 469 sangat
kecik
- Kulai Tempatan bunga sangat mudah gugur, 568 gugur sikit, 469
sangat sukar gugur
- Kulai Tempatan buahnya ringan, 568 dan 469 lebih berat 1.5 kali
ganda kerana lebih besar dan lebih tebal
- Kulai Tempatan sangat amat pedas, 568 tak pedas, 469 pedas.
- Kulai Tempatan pemborong terima, 568 sangat diterima, 469 sukar
diterima (bergantung kepada tempat)
- Kulai Tempatan ada 60 biji pada bulan pertama, 568 80-120 biji,
469 80 biji. - Kulai Tempatan sangat mudah kena kerinting, 568
mudah, 469 sukar sikit, kalau kena pun kerinting peringkat pertama
sahaja.
- Kulai Tempatan langsung tak ada lalat buah kerana amat pedas,
568 dan 469 ada sedikit bergantung kepada tempat.
* Oleh kerana Kulai Tempatan sangat besar maka ia tak dapat
ditanam rapat-rapat maka hasil kurang, di samping itu air dan racun
harus banyak sebab pokok besar, pancang pun kena kuat.
* 469 amat sesuai bagi ‘penanam baru nak belajar’/'penanam amatur’
kerana ia amat mudah berbuah lebat dan besar (pada bulan pertama),
bagaimanapun buahnya amat sukar diterima pasaran (bergantung
kepada tempat) dan harganya juga lebih murah.
* 568 sederhana mudah untuk dijaga, pokok yang kecil tapi buah
yang lebat dan berat memungkinkan hasil yang tinggi di samping ia
amat mudah diterima pasaran walaupun tak pedas.
Kos operasi/kos bulanan/kos tidak tetap yang meliputi :
1)benih
2)peatmoss
3)baja AB
4)racun+baja foliar
5)bil air
6)bil elektrik
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[ ] August 21, 2015
7)tali rafia
Anggaran kos tanaman cili dengan fertigasi keperluan asas
fertigasi bagi 1000pk cili
1.polytank 400 gallon =RM400.00
2.pam 0.75hp =RM250.00
3.main pipe poly 32mmx100m =RM120.00
4.poly tubing 13 mmx300m =RM120.00
5.dripper(putih)1000 =RM80.00
6.nipple 1000 =RM100.00
7.media cocopeat 70 bag =RM315.00
8.media sekam bakar 70 bag =RM175.00
9.polybag 15 x 15 x 40kg. =RM300.00
10.tong baja a/b x 2 =RM70.00
11.tubing 4 mm 9 roll x 80m =RM198.00
12.silver shine 0.035mm x 250m=RM70.00
13.fitting lump sum =RM200.00
14.timer digital 1 minit cutoff =RM60.00
15.tray semai anak benih 10kpg.=RM30.00
16.benih 10 gm. =RM30.00
17.baja a/b 1 set 50kg. =RM240.00
18.disk filter 1′ =RM55.00
JUMLAH DI ATAS SEMUA = + – RM2813.00
Kos luar jangka dan operation cost spt. racun, baja ulangan dll.
Musuh tanaman cili
-ulat ratus -kutu daun/afid -kutu trip -hama merah -hama kuning -
lelompat daun -pelombong daun -lalat putih -ulat pengorek buah -
lalat buah -ulat pangkas
Tips untuk mengawal serangan lalat buah:
lalat buah ni serang buah cili yang masak dan muda.
kerosakan boleh mencapai 60-80%
tanda kerosakan buah ialah buah menjadi berair lembik,busuk
dan gugur.
jika koyak =-larva (ulat) dalam buah yang berwarna kuning.
luar buah ada tanda bintik kena cucuk.
rupa lalat buah ni warna kuning belang hitam. sayap dia lut
sinar.
serangan boleh di kesan 3 minggu selepas putik keluar.
cara kawalan
-kutip semua buah yang kena serang dan masukkan dalam
plastik. -guna sebatian methyl eugenol untuk menarik dan
memerangkap lalat jantan. cara ini akan kurangkan kadar
pensenyawaan.
cara buat perangkap
-ambil botol air mineral dan potong buat tingkap (W 2 inci dan
H 1 inci).
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[ ] August 21, 2015
-campur methyl eugenol dengan air kedalam botol tu dan
gantung di kawasan pokok cili. lalat buah akan masuk dalam
botol dan hisap cecair lalu mati. atau: -botol warna kuning
terang (attract serangga). -sembur dengan NEOPACE (gam)
pada permukaan botol kuning tu -gantung pada kawasan pokok
cili. -lalat buah akan melekat pada permukaan botol tu sebab
NEOPACE tu ada gam.
Jangka hayat pokok cili
-semai benih hingga mula tuai 2.5-3 bulan
-petik hasil maksimum 6 bulan.
-jangka hayat 8 bulan dari mula semai (max. yield)
-Jangka Hayat cili sehingga 12 bulan dimana bulan ke-4
memberikan hasil.
-Buahnya sederhana besar. Hasilnya mencapai sehingga 10kg
sehari bagi 100 pokok (purata)
-jangka hayat pokok berbuah utk 6 bulan = 30 kali tuai…
-anggaran sebiji cili 7 gram 5 bijiX7gram = 35 gram
ANTI SERANGGA
By عبدالرحمن on Tuesday, 24 September 2013 at 23:34 محمد
ANTI SERANGGA ….olahan Agropolitan Fertilizer Sub-dc Kulim
Saya menggunakan kaedah semburan daun petai belalang dan ubi
gadong pada daun pokok..tapi pokok anak sawit la..alhamdulillah
tiada binatang ataupun serangga yang usik daun pokok..
.dlm pemerhatian sy tidak ada apa apa kesan sampingan setakat hari
ini..dah 2 tahun lebih dah cuba kaedah ini..kosnya rajin ja..x
melibatkan RM..
· penggunaannya hanya sebulan sekali semburan..untuk pokok yang
baru berbunga, elakkan menyembur pada bunga..nanti kumbang
pendebungaan tak singgah lak..langsung tidak berbuah..
cara buat semburan daun petai belalang
cara mudah ja..ambil daun petai belalang,blandersampai
hancur..ambil air pati ja utk campuran utk spray..pati daun boleh
dgunakan beberapa kali utk canpuran semburan..nisbah campuran
125ml(pati) = 16 liter air(tanpa klorin)
bebas dari kesan sampingan..fully organik..boleh juga dicampur
dengan baja foliar utk semburan...daun petai ini sifatnya hanyalah
pahit..daun yang kena semburanakan menjadi pahit,insyaAllah
serangga tak ganggu..pantangnya jgn guna air berklorin ja..guna air
sungai,telaga,parit,air hujan dll..
30
[ ] August 21, 2015
Common Name: Ladybirds, Ladybird Beetles,
Lady Beetles, Ladybugs [Of Florida]
Scientific Name: (Insecta: Coleoptera: Coccinellidae)
(a) Pest Species - Feeding on Plants
Adults and larvae of the subfamily Epilachninae feed on plants. In
Florida, this subfamily is represented only by Epilachna
borealis (Fabricius) and E. varivestis Mulsant. Epilachna borealis,
the squash beetle, feeds on members of the squash family
(Cucurbitaceae), and in Florida is restricted to the north, with a wide
distribution in other states of the eastern USA.Epilachna varivestis,
the Mexican bean beetle, feeds on members of the bean family
(Leguminosae), and rarely has been found south of northern Florida.
It is native to southern Mexico, but it is an immigrant to the USA,
first detected in the west in 1849, and in northern Florida in 1930.
Now, its distribution is from Costa Rica north through Mexico to the
Rocky Mountain states of the USA, and with a separated eastern
population (which extends southward to northern Florida). In Florida
it can be controlled efficiently by releases of the parasitoid
wasp Pediobius foveolatus (Crawford) (Eulophidae) (Nong and
Bennett 1994), which have to be made annually in the northeastern
USA (Stevens et al. 1975) because of the more severe climate. It was
discussed by Sanchez-Arroyo (2009).
(b) Innocuous Species - Feeding on Mildews
Ladybirds of the tribe Halyziini (of the subfamily Coccinellinae)
feed on fungal growths (mildews) on the leaves of plants. In Florida,
this tribe is represented only by the West Indian Psyllobora
nana Mulsant which has invaded the extreme south of Florida, and
by the widespread Psyllobora parvinotata Casey which also
occupies coastal areas as far west as Louisiana.
(c) Predatory Species - Feeding on Mites
Adults and larvae of the tribe Stethorini (of the subfamily
Scymninae) feed on tetranychid mites. In Florida, this tribe is
represented only by Stethorus utilis (Horn), a tiny ladybird which is
also distributed in the coastal plains of the southeastern states from
North Carolina through Texas.
(d) Predatory Species - Feeding on Whiteflies Four of Florida's
ladybirds appear to be more-or-less specialized predators of
whiteflies. They are Delphastus catalinae (Horn), D.
pallidus (LeConte), and D. pusillus (LeConte) (tribe Serangiini),
and Nephaspis oculatus(Blatchley) (Tribe Scymnini). The first seems
to be an immigrant species from the Neotropical region, with first
Florida record in 1974 (Hoelmer and Pickett 2003). Deliberate
attempts to introduce that species from California in 1916-1917 to
Manatee County, Florida, seem to have had no success (Frank and
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[ ] August 21, 2015
McCoy 1993, Hoelmer and Pickett 2003). The next two (D.
pallidus and D. pusillus) are considered to be native. The fourth (N.
oculatus) may be an immigrant from Central America. After "D.
pusillus" was found to be a a very useful biological control agent
against sweetpotato whitefly (Bemisia tabaci (Gennadius) (Hoelmer
et al. 1993) including the "form" that later was named silverleaf
whitefly (Bemisia argentifolii Bellows and Perring), "it" was
exported to California and made available commercially and used in
other parts of the USA. Unfortunately, the ladybird beetle that was
called D. pusillus by Hoelmer et al. (1993) seems to have been a
mixture of D. catalinae andD. pusillus (Hoelmer and Pickett 2003).
Somehow this resulted in commercial biological control companies
selling D. catalinae under the name D. pusillus (Hoelmer and Pickett
2003).
(e) Predatory Species - Feeding on Cottonycushion Scale
Cottonycushion scale (Icerya purchasi Maskell), native to Australia,
belongs to the homopterous family Margarodidae (commonly called
"ground pearls", although this name hardly fits this species) in the
superfamily Coccoidea (scale insects). It is a major pest of citrus, and
an important pest of several other trees and shrubs
including Acacia, Casuarina, and Pittosporum. After its arrival in
California, presumably as a contaminant of imported plants, it
threatened to ruin California's citrus industry in the late 1800s. It was
controlled by importation, release, and establishment (as classical
biological control agents) of Rodolia cardinalis (Mulsant) and a
parasitoid fly, Cryptochetum iceryae (Williston). When
cottonycushion scale became a problem in Florida, the same two
biological control agents were imported from California into
Florida. R. cardinalis is a highly effective control agent for
cottonycushion scale.
(f) Predatory Species - Feeding on Mealybugs
Mealybugs are the homopterous family Pseudococcidae, which
includes some notable pests of plants. The most notable ladybird
predator of mealybugs in Florida is Cryptolaemus
montrouzieri Mulsant, a species native to Australia, introduced into
California first in 1891, and some time later from California into
Florida. It has been marketed commercially as a control agent for
mealybugs and is often effective, but has one unfortunate
characteristic: its larvae produce waxy filaments making them look
to the uninitiated like their mealybug prey. Many owners of plants
have sprayed the larvae with chemicals in the mistaken belief that
they are pests. This misidentification must be overcome by
education. Cryptolaemus montrouzieri does not confine its attentions
to mealybugs, and also eats soft scales (Coccidae) and armored
scales (Diaspididae). Such a catholic diet is normal for a long list of
Florida ladybirds, so that their diet cannot neatly be pigeonholed as
armored scales or soft scales or mealybugs -- they may eat some prey
in all of these families, and a few of the larger ones may even eat an
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[ ] August 21, 2015
aphid from time to time. For that reason, many genera and species
are placed below under (h) - Feeding on Scale Insects.
(g) Predatory Species - Feeding on Armored Scale Insects
Eight species in four genera seem to feed largely or entirely on
armored scale insects (Diaspididae). They include Microweisea
coccidivora (Ashmead), M. misella (LeConte), andM.
ovalis (LeConte) of the tribe Microweiseini, Zilus horni Gordon, Z.
eleutherae Casey, Z. subtropicus (Casey) and perhaps Zagloba
bicolor (Casey) (its diet is a guess) of the tribe Scymnillini,
and Cryptognatha nodiceps Marshall of the tribe Cryptognathini.
One of these,Cryptognatha nodiceps, is not native, having been
imported in the 1930s, released, and established as a classical
biological control agent for coconut scale (Aspidiotus
destructorSignoret) (Frank and McCoy 1993).
(h) Predatory Species - Feeding on Scale Insects
Thirteen genera containing 66 species are placed here into this large
trophic group that has scale insects as its prey, meaning members of
the superfamily Coccoidea (the scale insects). This superfamily
includes various related families, notably Coccidae (soft scales),
Diaspididae (armored scales), Pseudococcidae (mealybugs),
Dactylopiidae (cochineal scales), Kermesidae (gall-like scales),
Eriococcidae (felt scales), Cerococcidae (ornate pit scales), and
Asterolecaniidae (pit scales). The ladybird genera are named below,
each followed by a number in parentheses, representing the number
of species known from
Florida: Decadomius (1), Diomus (9), Nephus (3), and Scymnus (16)
(all in tribe Scymnini),Brachiacantha (7), Hyperaspidius (5),
and Hyperaspis (16) (all in tribe
Hyperaspini), Axion(1), Chilocorus (3), Curinus (1),
and Exochomus (2) (all in tribe Chilocorini), Rhyzobius (1) (tribe
Coccidulini), and Azya (1) (tribe Azyini) (see Table 1). It is not yet
clear how, or whether, they divide up the scale insects between them,
because reliable prey records are too incomplete. However, there is
at least some level of prey specialization in these (and groups (e), (f),
and (g) above) that feed on scale insects, which seems not to be the
case for the next-discussed trophic group (those that feed on
aphids). Brachiacantha has a curious life history in that its larvae so
far as is known feed on scale insects within ant nests.
Rhyzobius lophanthae was introduced to California from Australia in
1892 to control scale insects, and somehow later made its way to
Florida (there is no record of an early introduction into
Florida). Chilocorus circumdatus (Schoenherr) [other writers give
the author name as Gyllenhal] was released in Florida in 1996, from
Australia (although it is native to southeastern Asia and is adventive
in Australia) against citrus snow scale, Unaspis citri, and is
established (H. W. Browning, personal communication, M. C.
Thomas, personal communication). Azya orbigera Mulsant was first
detected in Florida in 1975, and seems to be an immigrant from the
33
[ ] August 21, 2015
Neotropical region (Woodruff and Sailer 1977). Decadomius
bahamicus (Casey) was first detected in Florida in 1991, and is an
immigrant from the Caribbean or the Bahamas or Bermuda (Bennett
and Gordon 1991). Diomus roseicollisMulsant is another immigrant,
from Cuba (Gordon 1976). These and other insects that immigrated
to Florida are listed and discussed by Frank and McCoy (1992).
(i) Predatory Species - Feeding on Aphids
Adults and larvae of 12 of the remaining 13 Florida species (the tribe
Coccinellini) probably feed primarily on aphids. They
include Coccinella novemnotata Herbst,
C. septempunctataL., Coelophora inaequalis (F.), Coleomegilla
maculata DeGeer, Cycloneda munda (Say),Cycloneda
sanguinea (L.), Harmonia axyridis Pallas, Harmonia
dimidiata (Fabricius),Hippodamia convergens Guérin-
Méneville, Mulsantina picta (Randall), Naemia
seriata(Melsheimer), Neoharmonia venusta (Melsheimer). Although
the 13th species (Olla v-nigrumCasey) feeds on some aphid species,
it has been shown to be an important predator of psyllids (Michaud
2001).
Four of these, C. septempunctata (from Europe), C. inaequalis (from
Australia), H. dimidiata(from China), and H. axyridis (from Japan)
are not native. The first three were introduced into Florida (Frank
and McCoy 1993). The last was introduced by the USDA into
Georgia and made its own way to Florida. In some habitats it has
built large populations and its adults, in their search for
overwintering sites, sometimes are able to enter loosely constructed
houses; there they die of desiccation, or they are evicted or destroyed
by the householders who accuse them of being pests.
Two of these genera, Coleomegilla and Mulsantina, include adelgids
(Adelgidae), which are closely related to aphids, in their diet.
Further, Coleomegilla also includes pollen whereasMulsantina also
includes scale insects in the broad sense.
Alternative Food (Back to Top)
Ladybird larvae and adults may supplement their normal prey in
times of scarcity with other types of food. They consume flower
nectar, water and honeydew -- the sugary excretion of piercing-
sucking insects such as aphids and whiteflies. Many plant species
also contain organelles in locations on the plant other than the flower
-- termed extrafloral nectaries -- that produce a nutrient-laden
secretion. While it was first thought that extrafloral nectaries were
used by the plant for excretion, it is well substantiated (Bentley 1977,
Pemberton and Lee 1996) that most plants actually use the
extrafloral nectaries to attract predators and parasites for protection
from their herbivores. Over 2000 species of plants in 64 families
have extrafloral nectaries. Plants commonly found in Florida
landscapes with extrafloral nectaries are the fruit trees, Prunus spp.
(most of the 431 species worldwide have them),
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[ ] August 21, 2015
passionflower, Passiflora spp.; Ipomoea spp.,
morningglory; Hibiscus spp., hibiscus;Gossypium hirsutum,
cotton; Impatiens sp., impatiens; and Vicia spp., vetch. Extrafloral
nectaries may be located on leaf laminae, petioles, rachids, bracts,
stipules, pedicels, fruit, etc. Ladybirds often use the secretions from
extrafloral nectaries in their diet (Pemberton and Vandenberg 1993)
and are just some of the many beneficial insects that use extrafloral
nectary secretions.
PLANT BOOSTER-Sedutan dari Hasri Hj Hassan
SeriFertigasi
By عبدالرحمن on Thursday, 25 July 2013 at 15:53 محمد
MARI KITA BELAJAR MEMBUAT PLANT BOOSTER
1. APLIKASI MIKROORGANISMA TEMPATAN
BERFAEDAH KEATAS TANAMAN.
- APAKAH MIKROORGANISMA.
Benda hidup yang sangat seni sehinggakan tidak kelihatan
dengan mata kasar.
- KUMPULAN MIKROORGANISMA.
• Virus
• Bakteria
• Kulat
• Protozoa
• Algae
- APA ITU MIKROORGANISMA TEMPATAN
BERFAEDAH?
Merupakan kumpulan mikroorganisma yang diperolehi secara
semulajadi di kawasan setempat atau berdekatan melalui proses-
proses tertentu yang memiliki kerjasama antara satu sama lain
bagi membantu organisma lain mendapat faedah hasil daripada
kerjasama tersebut .
- CONTOH SUMBER PEMERAKAPAN
MIKROORGANISMA TEMPATAN BERFAEDAH(BIM).
a.Susu dan air beras (Lactobacillus spp)
b.Kawasan hutan (IMO ATAU BIM)
c.Pokok buluh – IMO ATAU BIM
d.Pokok Rhizibium- Bakteria pengikat nitrogen
e.Pemeraman sayuran dan buah-buahan
f.PEMERAMAN SUSU BERSAMA SAYURAN DAN BUAH-
BUAHAN ( DOA-PLANT BOOSTER).
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[ ] August 21, 2015
- CONTOH KUMPULAN MIKROB SEMULAJADI
YANG BIASA TERDAPAT HASIL DARIPADA
PEMERANGKAPAN SECARA SEMULAJADI.
a.Lactobacillus spp Bacteria.
b.Yeast count.
c.photosynthetic bacteria.
d.Actinomycetes bacteria
a.Laktik asid bacteria.
• Mempercepatkan penguraian bahan organik, selulosa dan
lignin
• Menghalang serangan mikrooganisma berbahaya
– Fusarium sp
• Merencatkan pertumbuhan patogen - sebagai agen
sterilizer
• Sebagai agen mineralization
b.Fotosintetik bacteria.
• mengurai bahan organik, selulosa dan lignin
• Menukarkan gas toksik kepada gas tak berbau
• Mengikat nitrogen diudara.
c.Yis.
• Menghasilkan antibiotik, hormon, enzim dan probiotik
• Menyediakan substrat untuk laktik asid bakteria dan
actinomycetes
- APAKAH KEPENTINGANYA PADA TANAMAN????
SECARA UMUM
• Untuk meningkatkan kualiti dan hasil tanaman yang sihat
• Untuk meningkatkan ketahanan penyakit
• Mempercepatkan proses pereputan dan penguraian-
Nutrien mineralization
• Meningkatkan populasi mikroorganisma berguna yang
lain-simbiosis
• Mengurangkan kadar kehilangan nutrien dan
meningkatkan kecekapan pengambilan nutrient.
- APAKAH YANG MEMPENGARUHI KEAKTIFAN
MIKROB?
• Suhu - kurang aktif pd suhu rendah
kebanyakan aktif pada suhu 35°C-40°C
• pH - bergantung kepada jenis
• Keamatan cahaya – membiak dengan aktif dalam
keadaan gelap
• Kehadiran nutrien – semua mikrob memerlukan nutrien
kecuali virus.
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[ ] August 21, 2015
2.APLIKASI DOA-ORGANIK PLANT BOOSTER KEATAS
TANAMAN.
- IDEA TEKNOLOGI.
Hasil inovasi gabungan teknologi organik farming Korea,Jepun dan
India yang menggabungkan unsur tanaman buah-buahan dan sayur-
sayuran yang mempunyai nilai nutrien dan hormon semulajadi yang
tinggi bersama mikroorganisma berfaedah.
- BAHAN-BAHAN.
o Susu tepung/segar 5kg/5L
o Ragi 5 ketul
o Pisang 5kg
o Labu 5kg
o Betik 5kg
o Kangkong 3kg
o belacan@udang geragau 3kg
o telur 10biji
o Gula merah 3kg
o Air 50liter
- KAEDAH PEMBUATAN.
o Campurkan semua bahan tersebut kecuali labu dan ragi yang
paling akhir campuran.
o Peram secara partially anaerobik selama seminggu.
o Dianggap matang apabila terdapat miselium putih dipermukaan
larutan.
o Tapis dan simpan di tempat yang gelap.
o Ketahanan produk dianggar selama 6 bulan.
o Perlu dilarutkan sebelum di gunakan.
- PROSES PEMERAMAN.
Terdapat miselium putih tumbuh pada permukaan tanah yang
di apply bokashi.
3. APLIKASI
• Boleh digunakan terus pada tanaman – sukatan mengikut
jenis dan umur tanaman
• Boleh digunakan dalam pembuatan kompos ataupun
bokashi.
3.1 CONTOH APLIKASI.
• Sawi, bayam dan kailan
5ml/LITER AIR(M1) – 10ml/L(M2) -15ml/L(M3)
• Cili
5ml/LITER AIR(M1) – 10ml/L(M3) -15ml/L(M5) – 20ml/L(M7)-
penggunaan 20ml kekal sehingga 2minggu seterusnya.
• Melon (rock melon – glomour dan golden langkawi)
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[ ] August 21, 2015
5ml/LITER AIR(M1) – 15ml/L(M3) -20ml/L(M5) –
25ml/L(M7)
3.2 FORMULA KOMPOS.
• 5 bhg tinja ayam+ 1 bhg sekam padi@cocopeat terpakai –
sesuai untuk tanaman sayuran
• 5 bhg tinja ayam + 3 bhg tinja kambing + 1 sekam
padi@cocopeat terpakai – sesuai untuk tanaman sayur buah
• 5 bhg tinja kambing + 1 bhg tinja ayam + 1sekam padi @
cocopeat terpakai
• Setiap bahan perlu campur 5% dedak.
o KAEDAH PEMBUATAN KOMPOS
• Kesemua bahan organan dicampur
• Lembapkan dengan air bercampur 5ml/L air sehingga
kelembapan mencapai 40-50%
• Diperam secara partially anaerobik selama 7 hari
• Selepas itu gaul dan boleh guna terus pada pokok
mengikut kadar yang disyorkan .
- KEBAIKAN PLANT BOOSTER
• Mempercepatkan pertumbuhan pokok
• Dapat meningkatkan 20-30% hasil tanaman
• Dapat menjimatkan baja
• Mempercepatkan tempoh masa pembunggaan
• Memanjangkan tempoh hayat tanaman
• Meningkatkan ketahanan penyakit
- KELEMAHAN.
- Pokok akan menunjukkan kesan kekurangan nutrien
yang ketara apabila tiada atau baja yang sedikit
LALAT BUAH
By Mmd Apis Ahmad on Tuesday, 3 September 2013 at 14:41
Nama biasa: Lalat Buah
Nama saintifik: Bactrocera carambolae.
Kitaran hidup lalat buah:
Telur : 1-2 hari
Larva: 8-10 hari
Kepompong : 10 hari.
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[ ] August 21, 2015
Dewasa : 5-7 hari.
## Kepompong terbentuk di dalam tanah.
Aktif pada waktu pagi antara 8-10 am dan petang antara pukul 5-7
pm..
Lalat buah menyerang dengan menyegat/menyuntik telur pada
buah. Kemudiaan larva yang menetas akan memakan tisu buah dari
dalam, antara tanda tanda serangan adalah buah kelihatan lebam,
lembik dan berair dan jika di amati pada fizikal luar buah akan
terdapat kesan seperti tusukan jarum pada bahagian luar buah. Jika
anda teliti pada bahagian dalam buah pula, akan terdapat ulat yang di
panggil larva. Lalat buah jika tidak di kawal boleh menyebabkan
lebih 50% hasil kebun anda akan musnah
Antara punca yang menyebabkan lalat buah datang adalah
disebabkan oleh buah yang terkena antraknos. Jadi kawal lah kebun
supaya jangan terkena fungus antraknos. sembur racun kulat secara
rutin..
Berikut adalah antara Kaedah untuk Mengatasi lalat buah..
Kawalan Secara Kimia
1. Lebaycid 550 (Bayer cropscience) dengan bahan aktif
fenthion (paling mujarab)
2. racun kimia dengan bahan aktif cypermethrin
3. Prevathon + Imida untuk matikan ulat dalam buah
4. Dimethoate + bawang putih ( Dimethoate dengan cara
kerja sistemik, akan meresap pada daun dan buah, ulat yang
makan isi buah sebelum jadi pupa akan mati sebab makanan
beracun, jadi populasi lalat berkurang. bawang putih
menghasilkan aroma yang tidak di sukai serangga
5.racun DIMEXION >>baun nya tidak di sukai serangga..
Perangkap Lalat Buah
Memasang perangkap lalat buah dengan menggunakan feromon
methyl euganol. Methyl euganol akan menghasilkan bau yang akan
menarik lalat jantan masuk ke dalam perangkap yang telah di isi air
atau racun, bila lalat jantan berkurangan maka kurang berlaku
persenyawaan dan populasi lalat buah akan berkurangan dengan
mendadak, perangkap ini haruslah sentiasa di selia (buang lalat yang
mati,dan titiskan pemikat yang baru jika bau feromon sudah mula
berkurang) dan pastikan perangkap di pasang pada bahagian luar/tepi
kebun bukan bahagian dalam kebun
Selain itu perangkap lalat buah boleh di buat sendiri dengan cara
berikut :-
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[ ] August 21, 2015
Kaedah ini ( A dan B ) dikatakan lebih efisyen kerana ia dapat
memerangkap lalat buah jantan dan betina >>
A. Perangkap lalat buah yang ekonomik. Apa yang kita perlukan
ialah:
200 ml air 50 gram gula perang
1 gram yis ( yis ibu roti, boleh dibeli di pasar raya )
dan 1 botol plastik 2-liter.
Bagaimana caranya:
1. Potong botol plastik (jenis PET) pada separuh. Simpan bahagian
leher
2. Campurkan gula perang dengan air panas. Biarkan sejuk. Apabila
sejuk, tuangkan di separuh bahagian bawah botol.
3. Tambah yis. Tidak perlu untuk bergaul. Ia akan menghasilkan
karbon dioksida. (betina dan jantan tertarik dengan karbon
dioksida)
4. Letakkan bahagian corong, terbalik, ke dalam separuh botol tadi.
5. letakkan di sekeliling/luar kebun anda pada ketinggian 2-3 meter..
6. ulang buat jika populasi lalat masih kelihatan..
B. ....tips perangkap lalat buah dari ladang belimbing dan jambu
batu......air kencing lembu campur dgn perahan airlimau nipis atau
kasturi....
Selamat Mencuba
Nasihat daripada GM Peladang
1. Musnahkan punca vektor. Spt kita tebang pkok jenis palma
supaya white fly x dtg serang pokok tomato.
2. Jika memakai perangkap serangga, letak di luar kebun dan
selanggara dgn cara tanam ia tiap sehari/2 kali sehari. Jgn biar penuh
di dlm botol atau di pelekat.
3. Jika serangan teruk meracun lah secara selang seli hari
selama 5 hari dengann racun serangga. Kemudian kawal
seminggu sekali.
actinomycetes
By Mohamad Amiruddin Md Nor on Monday, 2 September 2013 at
17:12
These are the organisms with characteristics common to both
bacteria and fungi but yet possessing distinctive features to delimit
them into a distinct category. In the strict taxonomic sense,
actinomycetes are clubbed with bacteria the same class of
40
[ ] August 21, 2015
Schizomycetes and confined to the order Actinomycetales.
They are unicellular like bacteria, but produce a mycelium which is
non-septate (coenocytic) and more slender, tike true bacteria they do
not have distinct cell-wall and their cell wall is without chitin and
cellulose (commonly found in the cell wall of fungi). On culture
media unlike slimy distinct colonies of true bacteria which grow
quickly, actinomycetes colonies grow slowly, show powdery
consistency and stick firmly to agar surface. They produce hyphae
and conidia / sporangia like fungi. Certain actinomycetes whose
hyphae undergo segmentation resemble bacteria, both
morphologically and physiologically.
Actinomycetes are numerous and widely distributed in soil and are
next to bacteria in abundance. They are widely distributed in the soil,
compost etc. Plate count estimates give values ranging from 10^4 to
10^8 per gram of soil. They are sensitive to acidity / low PH
(optimum PH range 6.5 to 8.0) and waterlogged soil conditions. The
population of actinomycetes increases with depth of soil even up to
horizon ‘C’ of a soil profiler They are heterotrophic, aerobic and
mesophilic (25-30 ^c) organisms and some species are commonly
present in compost and manures are thermophilic growing at 55-65°
c temperature (eg. Thermoatinomycetes, Streptomyces).
Actinomycetes belonging to the order of Actinomycetales are
grouped under four families viz Mycobacteriaceae,
Actinomycetaceae, Streptomycetaceae and Actinoplanaceae.
Actinomycetous genera which are agriculturally and industrially
important are present in only two families of Actinomycetaceae and
Strepotmycetaceae.
In the order of abundance in soils, the common genera of
actinomycetes are Streptomyces (nearly 70%), Nocardia and
Micromonospora although Actinomycetes, Actinoplanes,
Micromonospora and Streptosporangium are also generally
encountered.
Functions / Role of actinomycetes:
1. Degrade/decompose all sorts of organic substances like cellulose,
polysaccharides, protein fats, organic-acids etc.
2. Organic residues / substances added soil are first attacked by
bacteria and fungi and later by actinomycetes, because they are slow
in activity and growth than bacteria and fungi.
3. They decompose / degrade the more resistant and indecomposable
organic substance/matter and produce a number of dark black to
brown pigments which contribute to the dark colour of soil humus.
4. They are also responsible for subsequent further decomposition of
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[ ] August 21, 2015
humus (resistant material) in soil.
5. They are responsible for earthy / musty odor / smell of freshly
ploughed soils.
6. Many genera species and strains (eg. Streptomyces if
actinomycetes produce/synthesize number of antibiotics like
Streptomycin, Terramycin, Aureomycin etc.
7. One of the species of actinomycetes Streptomyces scabies causes
disease "Potato scab" in potato.
_______________________________________________________
PANDUAN MENANAM TERUNG
PENANAMAN Di Ladang
Bajak dan gemburkan tanah sedalam 15 hingga 22 cm (6-9 in).
Sediakan batas berukuran 1.2 m ( 48 in) lebar dan 22-30 cm (9-12 in)
tinggi. Panjang batas mengikut keadaan kawasan. Jarak antara batas
ialah 45 cm (18 in). Gaulkan tahiayam reput ke dalam tanah
sebanyak 50 kg bagi 50 meter persegi ( 500 kaki persegi).
Dalam Pasu atau BekasGunakan tanah campuran mengandungi 3
bahagian tanah, 1 bahagian tahi ayam reput atau kompos dan 1
bahagianpasir. Isikan tanah campuran tersebut ke dalam pasu
sehingga 5 cm (2 in) dari permukaan pasu.
MENYEDIA ANAK BENIHBagi tanaman di ladang, sediakan
kotak semaian berukuran 45 cm ( 18 in) panjang, 22 cm (9 in) lebar
dan 10 cm (4 in) tinggi. Isikan kotak semaian dengan tanah
campuran yang mengandungi 3 bahagian tanah, 1 bahagian tahi
ayam reput atau compos dan 1 bahagian pasir. Semai 3 g biji benih
kedalam kotak semaian secara barisan dan tutup benih dengan
lapisan nipis tanah. Jarak antara barisan biji benih ialah 5 cm (2 in)
dan 2 cm (1 in) antara benih. Siram denganpenyiram yang
mempunyai semburan halus dua kali sehari. Kotak semaian mesti
dilindungi cahaya matahari dan air hujan yang berlebihan. Ubah
anak benih ke ladang 3 hingga 4 minggu selepas disemai. Sebelum
diubah ke ladang,dedah anak benih kepada cahaya matahari yang
penuh selama 3 hingga 4 hari untuk mengeraskannya.
MENANAM
Di LadangAnak benih yang berumur 3 hingga 4 minggu boleh di
ubah terus ke batas. Sebelum mencabut, basahkan kotak semaian
supaya anak benih senang di gali. Kemudian, gali anak benih dengan
segumpal tanah dan tanam terus kebatas. Jarak tanaman ialah 90 cm
(36 in) antara pokok dan 60 cm antara baris.Dalam Pasu atau Bekas
Tanam terus 3 atau 4 biji benih ke dalam pasu sedalam 2-5 cm ( 1
in). Tinggalkan sepokok sepasu 2 minggu selepas menanam.
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[ ] August 21, 2015
PENJAGAANMenyiramSiram tanaman pada awal pagi dan lewat
petang setiap hari kecuali hari hujan.
Membaja
Di LadangTabur baja NPK 12:12:17:2 di keliling pokok dengan
kadar 1 sudu besar atau 10 g sepokok setiap dua minggu.
Dalam Pasu atau BekasTabur 1 sudu teh atu 5 g baja NPK
12:12:17:2 sepasu di keliling pokok setiap minggu.
Sungkupan
Di LadangGunakan kepingan plastik atau rumput-rumput kering
atau pelepah kelapa sebagai sungkupan.
Dalam Pasu atau BekasGunakan rumput-rumput kerung atau sabut
kelapa.
MerumputBersihkan batas-batas daripada rumput rumpai dengan
menggunakan tangan, cangkul atau tajak.
Menyedia Sokongan
Di LadangSatu kayu sokongan sepanjang lebih kurang 1 ½ meter ( 5
kaki) dipacak berdekatan tiap-tiap pokok. Dahan-dahan pokok diikat
dengan tali rafia supaya buah terung tidak terkena permukaan tanah.
Dalam Pasu atau Bekas
Cara sokongan yang di amalkan adalah sama dengan sokongan yang
dibuat di ladang tetapi kayu yang digunakan berukuran 1.2 m ( 4
kaki ) panjang.
KAWALAN SERANGGA DAN PENYAKIT
Sembur racum serangga carbaryl (Sevin pada kadar 1 sudu besar
atau 10 g segelen air ) untuk mengawal ulat lipas daun, kumbang
daun dan pengorek buah.Gunakan racun kulat maneb ( seperti
Megamaneb pada kadar 1 sudu besar atau 10 g segelen air) untuk
mengawal penyakit reput buah dan racun kulat benomyl ( seperti
Benlate pada kadar 1 sudu teh atau 3 g segelen air) untuk mengawal
bintik daun.
MEMUNGUT HASILDi LadangMulalah memetik buah 6 minggu
selepas mengubah. Pungutan hasil dibuat setiap 4 hari. Anggaran
hasil ialah sebanyak 75 – 125 kg bagi 50 meter persegi. Denagn
harga purata 60 sen sekilo, pendapatan kasar adalah RM 45 –RM 75
.Dalam Pasu atau BekasMulalah memetik buah 10 minggu selepas
menanam. Anggaran hasil adalah 1 kg/pokok.
Kos Pengeluaran Timun Konvensional- oleh Nurwahidah
Hambali
By Nurwahidah Hambali on Thursday, 25 July 2013 at 08:38
43
[ ] August 21, 2015
KOS PENGELUARAN BAGI TANAMAN
TIMUN BAGI MUSIM 1 VARIETI : DOUBLE
BONUS 1199 LUAS 0.4 HA TAHUN 2010
BIL PERKARA KUANTITI HARGA/ JUMLAH UNIT
1. Benih 5 37.00 185.00
2. Tali rambut 15 6.00 90.00
3. Tali hijau 30 6.30 189.00
4. Furadan 2 22.00 44.00
5. Racun siput 3 3.00 9.00
6. Baja(i) En Cal 1 95.00 95.00(ii)
16:16:16 2.5 110.00 275.00(iii)
13:10:21:TE 4.5 120.00 540.00
7. Racun Seranggai. Armada 680 0.08
54.40ii. Cypermetrin 1080 0.02
21.60iii. Mospilan 70 0.06 4.20
8. Racun kulati. Dithane 45 1030 0.03
26.78ii. Daconil 820 0.02 19.68
9. Biogreen 9400 0.03 282.00
10. Racun rumputi. Basta 15 1 156.00
156.00
11. Kapur GML 40 10.00 400.00
12. Baja Organiki. Tahi ayam 1 300.00
300.00
13. Upah pekerja 3620.00
14. Gaji pengurus 1150.00
15. Susut nilai 100.00
16. Petrol 219.20
17. Diesel 129.00
18. Suratkhabar 100 0.50 50.00
19. Penyelenggaraan mesin 30.00
20. Sewa 100.00
TOTAL RM 8,089.86
Kos Pengeluaran, Pendapatan kasar dan bersih
Tanaman Timun
By Norhisam Ramlan on Tuesday, 23 July 2013 at 10:00
Update Timun 747 100% Kawalan SRI ORGANIK- MUSIM 1
Bilangan Pokok : 3200 pokok
Tanam : 29hb April 2013
Tuai : 2hb June 2013
Habis : 10hb Julai 2013
Jumlah hari menuai : 38 hari
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[ ] August 21, 2015
PENDAPATAN
Jumlah kutipan hasil :25 MT ( Gred A - RM 1.00 )
2 MT ( Gred B - RM 0.20 )
Jumlah Pendapatan Kasar : RM 25,400.00
PERBELANJAAN
Benih 2 tin @ RM 175.00 = RM350
Plastik silvershine : 15 gulung @ RM 65.00 = RM 975
Tali : 15 gulung @ RM 10.00 = RM 150.00
Tali jurai : 25 ikat @ RM 6.00 = RM 150.00
Baja Yara Liva 1 beg @ RM 85.00 = RM 85.00
Baja Yara 16 : 16 : 16 2 beg @ RM 130.00 = RM 260.00
Baja Yara 13: 11: 21 3 beg @ RM 130.00 = RM 390.00
SRI ANAK : 6 liter @ RM 20.00 = RM 120.00 (harga buat sendiri)
SRI BUNGA : 4.8 liter @ RM 20.00 = RM96.00
SRI BUAH : 5.6 liter @ RM 20.00 = RM112.00
Mol Ikan : 10 liter @ RM15.00 = RM150.00
Mol Kangkong : 4.8 liter @ RM 10.00 = RM 48.00
Mol Pisang : 5.6 liter @ RM 10.00 = RM 56.00
OHN : 3 liter @ RM 25.00 = RM 75.00
IMO 2 : 2 set @ RM 50.00 = RM 100
Dedak 2 beg @ RM 35.00 = RM 70.00
Petrol = RM 200
Diesel = RM 600
Jumlah Kos Bahan : RM 3987.00
Jumlah kos pekerja : 2 orang @ RM 1000 @ 3 bulan = RM
6000.00
Jumlah besar : RM 9987.00
Pendapatan Bersih : RM25,400 - RM 9987.00 = RM 15,413.00
ORGANIC FURADAN DARI BUAH JERING -
sedutan dari Wizan Zaini
By عبدالرحمن on Saturday, 20 July 2013 at 05:33 محمد
Tiga bahan utama, iaitu buah jering, belerang, dan pasir.Cara
pembuatannya mudah:ambil 10 biji buah jering (diambil isi jering)
dikisar, diparut atau ditumbuk halusmasukkan jering yang telah
dikisar, diparut atau ditumbuk halus ke dalam bekas/
besen tambahkan 4 camca/ sudu teh belerang/sulfurtambahkan 6
cawan pasir halusgaulkan bahan tersebut hingga sebatitutup
bekas/besen dengan pembalut plastik/ wrapper dan simpan di tempat
kering selama 1 minggufuradan organik boleh digunakan dengan
mencampurkan dengan tanah untuk tujuan pemasuan, semaian biji
benih atau tabur rata di keliling tanaman anda.
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[ ] August 21, 2015
Kawalan Tikus Dari Jering
Cara yang biasa dibuat petani di Selangor sebelum musim baru
bermula adalah dengan mengumpan tikus dengan padi yang
digaulkan racun tikus. Cara ini agak berkesan kerana tikus agak
terkawal walau pun akhir-akhir ini ada kedengaran kerosakan
disebabkan oleh tikus berlaku disana-sini. Tapi bagaimana kalau
saya katakan kita boleh jauhkan tikus dari sawah kita dengan
menggunakan jering?.
Pak Tam pernah memberikan cara membuat pencegah tikus
menggunakan jering dalam salah satu kursus yang dikendalinya.
Rupa-rupanya saudara Mohd Nor Saarani terus mencuba
disawahnya. Dengar apa kata saudara Mohd Nor semasa kami
melawat sawahnya tempoh hari. Sawah disebelahnya jelas nampak
diganggu tikus, tetapi tidak disawahnya.
Cara membuat air jering untuk mencegah tikus
Bahan:1 kg jering yang matang (semai hingga berakar)2 liter air
Cara:1. Hiriskan jering dan masukkan ke dalam bekas plastik.2.
Masukkan 2 liter air dan rendam jering tadi selama 2 hari.3. Tapis
dan ambil air rendaman jering tadi. (Nota: bau air jering sangat
busuk)4. Untuk disembur ke sempadan sawah, ambil satu liter air
jering untuk satu tong penyembur. Sembur dibatas sekeliling sawah
seolah membuat pagar jering. Cebisan jering bolehlah ditaburkan ke
dalam sawah jika mahu, atau tabur dikeliling rumah.
Cubalah di sawah anda atau kebun anda. Jika berjaya menangani
masalah tikus, tolong beritahu Mak Tam. Boleh kita panjangkan
untuk pengetahuan rakan tani yang lain.
Ladybugs | Kumbang Pemangsa (Coccinellidae
family)
By Wizan Zaini on Wednesday, 17 July 2013 at 23:14
Jom Bela Kumbang dalam Kebun!
Apa yang ladybugs makan? Biasanya deme makan serangga kecil
yang lain.. biasanya serangga yang kita tak suka (perosak)!
Contohnya aphids! Sebenarnya, larva si kumbang ni pun makan
aphids jugak. Kalau nak ladybugs hidup di kebun kita, jangan la
banyak meracun (kimia).
Selain itu, kumbang ini juga makan serangga lain yang berkulit
lembut seperti kutu (mites) dan termasuklah lalat putih (whiteflies).
Ada juga jenis ladybugs yang makan
daun, TETAPI kebanyakkannya makan serangga (Coccinellidae
family)!
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[ ] August 21, 2015
Macam mana nak panggil ladybugs datang kebun kita? Tanam bunga
dalam kebun.. buat pagar atau letak di celah-celah pokok di kebun.
Biasanya kalau ada bunga adalah kumbangnya. Sayang.. ekosistem
kita sudah rosak!
Antara pokok yang menarik ladybugs datang ialah:
1. Ketumbar - Coriander (Coriandrum sativum).
2. Kucai - Garlic Chives (Allium tuberosum) - Aphids tak suka
kucai!
3. Fennel ( Foeniculum vulgare
4. Butterfly Weed (Asclepias Tuberosa)
5. Golden Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria)
6. Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii)
7. Rocky Mountain Penstemon
8. Yarrow (Achillia sp.)
Secrets to Hydroponic/fertigation Nutrients.
By Mmd Apis Ahmad on Sunday, 16 June 2013 at 12:43
Secrets to Hydroponic Nutrients.
In the time plants have evolved on Earth, they have adapted to utilise
five major resources in order to grow. These are
Light, Water, Oxygen, Carbon Dioxide, and mineral elements. From
these, plants can synthesise a wide range of
organic molecules required for life. Of these five factors, it is the
mineral element requirements of plants which we aim
to provide through the use of hydroponic or soilless culture, and
under optimum conditions of light and temperature the
productivity of crops is largely dictated by the mineral composition
in the root zone.
As hydroponic growers and suppliers, it is therefore worth taking a
look at what elements are actually required for
plant growth, what their purpose is inside the plant, and what levels
and ratios are most appropriate for optimising
plant growth in a range of conditions.
Hydroponic Elements - Why we need them ...
The elements required for plant growth include the following.
Nitrogen
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[ ] August 21, 2015
Nitrogen is a component of all amino acids in proteins and enzymes
used in plant tissue, as well as flavour
compounds and lignin, and as a result the entire plant metabolism
depends on nitrogen supply.
Example of Amino Acid containing NITROGEN :HOOC-(CH)n-
NH2
Without nitrogen, plant growth ceases, and deficiency symptoms
rapidly appear. Most obvious deficiency symptoms
are yellowing or purple colouration of the older leaves, thin stems,
and low vegetative vigour. Nitrogen is readily
mobilised within the plant, so deficiencies first appear as symptoms
on the older foliage. Excess nitrogen, or specifi-cally
a high nitrogen to carbon ratio within the plant, predisposes the plant
to lush soft growth, usually undesirable for
commercial crops and can retard fruitset, promote flower abscission,
and induce calcium deficiency disorders as fruit
develop.
Nitrogen is supplied as nitrate in the hydroponic nutrient solution,
usually from sources calcium nitrate, and potassium
nitrate (Saltpetre). Occasionally, for example under low light
conditions, a small amount of nitrogen is supplied in the
ammonium form from compounds such as ammonium nitrate or
ammonium phosphate, but this should be limited to
less than 10% of the total nitrogen content of the nutrient solution to
maintain balanced vegetative growth and avoid
physiological disorders relating to ammonia toxicity. Urea should
never be used in hydroponics.
Potassium
Potassium is a key activator of many enzymes, especially those
involved with carbohydrate metabolism. Potassium is
also responsible for the control of ion movement through membranes
and water status of stomatal apertures.
Potassium therefore has a role in controlling plant transpiration and
turgor. It is generally associated with plant 'quality'
and is necessary for successful initiation of flower buds and fruit set.
As a result the levels of potassium in nutrient
solutions are increased as plants enter a 'reproductive' phase, and as
crops grow into lower light levels, in order to
maintain nutrient balance in solution. Symptoms of potassium
deficiency are typically, scorched spots towards the
margins of older leaves, along with generally low vigour and
susceptibility to fungal disease. Crops such as tomatoes
can almost double their uptake of potassium during fruiting. An ideal
source of potassium for hydroponics is
monopotassium phosphate, along with potassium nitrate. Potassium
sulphate can be used as an additive to boost
potassium levels without affecting nitrogen or phosphorous.
Potassium chloride should be used sparingly if at all, to
avoid excessive chloride levels in solution.
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[ ] August 21, 2015
Phosphorous
The energy utilisation process within plants relies on bonds between
phosphate molecules - energy is stored and
released by the compound adenosine triphosphate (ATP).
ATP ---------> ADP + Pi + energy
Phosphorous is an integral part of the sugar-phosphate molecules
used in respiration and photosynthesis, and is a
major component of all cell membranes formed using phospholipids.
NUTRON2000 TM is a registered Trademark of Casper Publications
Pty Ltd and Suntec (NZ) Ltd.
The phospholipid Lechitin, a component of every living cell.
CH3-(CH2)16-COO-CH2
|
CH3-(CH2)7-CH=CH-(CH2)7-COO-CH2
|
CH2-OPO3-CH2N(CH3)3
Phosphorus is involved in the bonding structure of nucleic acids
DNA and RNA. Deficiency of phosphate appears as a
dull green colouration of the older leaves followed by purple and
brown colours as the foliage dies. Root development
becomes restricted as phosphorous deficiency occurs, due to sugar
production and translocation being impeded. The
main source of phosphate in hydroponics is monopotassium
phosphate, although limited amounts of ammonium
phosphate can sometimes be added. Compounds such as calcium
superphosphate should be avoided. Small amounts
of phosphorous are also supplied by the use of phosphoric acid for
pH control.
Magnesium
Magnesium is the central ion of the chlorophyll molecule, and
therefore has a primary role in the light collecting
mechanism of the plant and the production of plant sugars through
photosynthesis. Magnesium is also a co-factor in
the energy utilisation process of respiration in the plant.
Magnesium deficiency first appears as yellowing of the leaves
between veins on the older parts of the plant, although
under worse deficiency the symptoms can spread towards the newer
growth. Magnesium deficiency can also occur
during periods of low light intensity or heavy crop loading and when
excessive levels of potassium are provided in the
nutrient solution. The main, probably universal source of magnesium
for hydroponics is magnesium sulphate (Epsom
salts). Although limited use is sometimes made of magnesium nitrate
it is rarely an economical option. Soil fertiliser
salts magnesium phosphate or magnesium ammonium phosphate are
not suitable.
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[ ] August 21, 2015
Calcium
Calcium is deposited in plant cell walls during their formation. It is
also required for the stability and functioning of cell
membranes. Calcium deficiency is common in hydroponic crops, and
is apparent as tipburn in lettuce, and blossom
end rot in tomatoes. Calcium is almost totally immobile in the plant,
as once deposited in cell walls it can not be
moved. Therefore the deficiency occurs in the newest growth.
Calcium transport is dependent on active transpiration,
and so calcium deficiency occurs most often under conditions where
transpiration is restricted, ie warm overcast or
humid conditions are often referred to as "calcium stress" periods.
Increasing calcium content in solution is unlikely to
improve uptake, and in fact, reducing CF is one way to improve
calcium uptake in most species by enhancing the
uptake of water. Calcium is supplied by default in most formulations
through the use of Calcium nitrate. Extra calcium
can be provided by calcium chloride.
Sulfur
Sulfur is used mainly in sulfur-containing proteins using the amino
acids cysteine and methionine. The vitamins
thiamine and biotin, as well as the cofactor Coenzyme A, all use
sulfur, and so this element also plays a key role in
plant metabolism. Sulfur deficiency in hydroponics is rare, usually
because sulfur is present in adequate quantities
through the use of sulfate salts of the other major elements
particularly magnesium and potassium, and plant require-ments
for the element are reasonably flexible within quite a wide range.
Where it occurs, sulfur deficiency shows up as
a general yellowing of the entire foliage, especially on the new
growth.
Iron
Iron is a component of proteins contained in plant chloroplasts, as
well as electron transfer proteins in the photosyn-thetic
and respiration chains. Deficiency occurs on the newest leaves, and
appears first as a yellowing of the leaves
between veins, and eventually the whole leaf becomes pale yellow,
even white, ultimately with necrotic (dead) spots
and distorted leaf margins. Iron must be supplied as chelated Iron
EDTA, EDDHA or EPTA in hydroponics, rather than
sulphate. Iron is the element most susceptible to precipitation at high
(>7) pH, so pH control to below pH6.5 is
necessary to maintain Iron in solution in hydroponics.
Manganese
Manganese catalyses the splitting of water molecules in
photosynthesis, with the release of oxygen. It is a co-factor in
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[ ] August 21, 2015
the formation of chlorophyll and the respiration and photosynthetic
systems. Manganese deficiency appears as a dull
grey appearance followed by yellowing of the newest leaves between
the veins which usually remain green. Spots of
dead tissue become apparent on affected leaves. Manganese is
supplied by manganese sulfate, or manganese EDTA
in hydroponics. The content of manganese in these fertilisers can
vary widely between different sources, due to such
factors as different 'water of crystallisation' (MnSO4.nH2O), and
different chelating agents and raw ingredients as well
as manufacturing processes. Manganese, like iron, is less available to
plants at high pH.
Zinc
Zinc contributes to the formation of chlorophyll, and the production
of the plant hormone auxin. It is an integral part of
many plant enzymes. Zinc deficiency appears as distortion and
interveinal chlorosis of older leaves of the crop, and
retarded stem development. Zinc is provided by zinc sulfate, or zinc
EDTA in hydroponics.
Boron
Boron is required mostly for cell division in plants, and deficiencies
appear similar to calcium deficiencies, with stem
cracking and death of the shoot apex being the most significant
symptoms. Boron is supplied as either borax (sodium
borate) or boric acid in hydroponic production.
Copper
Copper is required in small amounts as a component in several
important enzymes . Toxicity is more common than
deficiency of copper in hydroponics. Copper sulfate is most often
used, although copper EDTA can also be used in
nutrient solutions.
Silica
Recently silicates have been reported to improve the growth and
development of some crops. When readily available,
silica is incorporated into the root system, and appears to enhance
nutrient uptake, improving the potential of crops to
produce higher yields. Silicates have also been implicated in
enhancing pollination, as well as providing increased
structural strength of stems and some resistance to foliar diseases.
It should be noted, that among the 110 or so known elements, many
more are likely to be implicated in plant growth.
Nickel, cobalt, chromium, titanium, iodine, selenium, lithium and
numerous others have been reported to have some
function in some species of plants.
Hydroponic Nutrient Basics
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[ ] August 21, 2015
There are several important factors to decide when purchasing salts
for hydroponic nutrient formulae:
1. The salt must be completely soluble in water, that is the salt must
not contain additives or insoluble fillers, or
components (such as insoluble sulphates and phosphates) which
while useful for soil fertiliser are unacceptable in
hydroponics.
2. Contents of sodium, chloride, ammonium and organic nitrogen, or
elements not required for plant growth should be
minimised under normal use. These elements if not used by plants
tend to accumulate in recirculating hydroponic
nutrients to the extent that the measured CF includes a high
proportion of unusable salts.
3. The salt must not react with other components in the same mix to
produce insoluble salts, and it should not radically
alter the pH of the nutrient solution.
4. For commercial use, the fertiliser source must be economical.
There is no point using expensive fertiliser salts when
a cheaper source is perfectly adequate.
What Salts to Use
Macro Elements
Nitrogen
Recommended sources
Calcium Nitrate (15.5% N): Commercial calcium nitrate also forms
1% Ammonium-N in solution, and supplies 20%
Calcium
Potassium Nitrate (13% N): Also supplies 36.5% Potassium
Ammonium Nitrate (33% N): Nitrogen form is split between
ammonium-N and Nitrate-N, the total ammonium-N % of a
formula should be kept below 15% in most conditions.
Other sources:
Ammonium Phosphate (10%N): Supplies N and is soluble, but all N
is in the ammonium form, which limits its appli-cation
in hydroponics.
Ammonium Sulfate (21%N): As above, redundant if using
conventional salts. Urea (46%N): Can cause problems with
ammonia toxicity, and has no CF charge so difficult to measure.
Nitric Acid: Used often for pH control, but should not be considered
a nitrogen source, especially not mixed with salts
in stock solutions.
Phosphorus
Recommended Sources
MonoPotassium Phosphate (21% P): Also provides 25% Potassium.
Other sources:
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[ ] August 21, 2015
Ammonium Phosphate (22% P): Not used as the main phosphate
source as too much ammonium would be produced.
Phosphoric Acid: As for Nitric acid above. Older formulations used
it as a P source in 'Topping-up" mixtures but this
approach is no longer valid.
Calcium Superphosphate (10% P): Phosphate is highly soluble (as
phosphoric acid), but produces an insoluble
calcium sulfate / calcium phosphate residue in hydroponics.
Potassium
Recommended Sources
Potassium Nitrate (37% K)
MonoPotassium Phosphate (25% K)
Potassium Sulfate (40% K): Also adds sulfur (17%). Useful as an
additive to existing formulae to boost potassium
levels.
Other sources:
Potassium Chloride (49% K): Can be added in small amounts,
although preferably omitted due to its chloride content.
Magnesium
Recommended sources
Magnesium Sulfate (10% Mg): Also adds sulfur. Is highly soluble
and universal Mg source
Other sources:
Magnesium Nitrate Expensive, and unnecessary
Dolomite (Magnesium carbonate) Insoluble residues
Fertiliser sources of magnesium used in agriculture (Dolomite,
Causmag etc) are generally very insoluble, and can not
be used for hydroponics.
Calcium
Recommended sources
Calcium Nitrate (20% Ca): Calcium is supplied almost entirely by
this salt in most nutrient formulations
Calcium Chloride (36% Ca): Useful to add extra calcium without
altering other elements. Limited use due to its
chloride content, so only used as an 'additive'
Other sources:
Calcium chelates: Expensive and unnecessary
Calcium Ammonium Nitrate: Not recommended due to ammonia
content
Calcium cyanamide: Release amine - N into solution which produces
free ammonia.
Calcium carbonate: Insoluble, and inherent pH problems
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[ ] August 21, 2015
Calcium Sulfate: Highly insoluble.
Sulfur
Recommended sources
Magnesium sulfate (13% S): Potassium sulfate (18% S)
Other sources:
Ammonium sulfate
Sulfuric acid
Trace Elements
Iron
Recommended sources
Iron EDTA (6 - 14% Fe): Readily soluble, and stable form of Iron
for nutrient solutions. Ensure the element (Fe)
content of the chelate is known before making formulations.
Iron EPTA: Using different chelating agents the iron can be
protected in solution at higher pH levels.
Iron EDDHA " " "
Other sources:
Iron Sulfate (20% Fe): No longer widely used in hydroponics due to
its instability in solution. In nutrient solutions iron
sulfate tends to form iron hydroxides which are insoluble.
Iron Chloride: As above
Manganese
Recommended sources
Manganese Sulfate (24%): Different sources may vary in Mn% due
to being hydrated or anhydrous. In solution with
Iron EDTA, the manganese becomes partly chelated.
Manganese Chelate (*%): As for Fe EDTA * the content of Mn can
vary between sources.
Boron
Recommended sources
Boric Acid (18% B), Sodium borate (Borax) 11 - 14% B
Zinc
Recommended sources
Zinc Sulfate (23% Zn), Zinc EDTA (*%)
Copper
Recommended sources
Copper Sulfate (25% Cu), Copper EDTA (*%)
Molybdenum
Recommended sources
Ammonium molybdate (48% Mo), Sodium Molybdate (39% Mo)
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[ ] August 21, 2015
Ratios and Content of Elements in Nutrient Solutions
Once we have the source of elements (fertiliser salts) for a nutrient
formula, the next stage is to combine these into
ratios which give the acceptable element contents in solution. Plants
will take up nutrient elements roughly according
to their needs, this is especially true for the major elements, so
adding elements to solution when they are not required
results in the formula becoming unbalanced for plant growth. Adding
excessive quantities of some of the trace
elements can in fact lead to toxicities, while adding insufficient
amounts of any element will eventually lead to
deficiency and poor crop growth. As hydroponic growers it is
essential to have an understanding of acceptable ratios
for all the elements used in hydroponic formulations to ensure the
nutrient solution is supplying the plant's needs and
is neither toxic or deficient. Generally the range of acceptable
element concentrations is wider for the major nutrients,
than for the trace elements as can be seen from the table below.
Element Range in PPM for Nutrient Solution
N 100 - 450
P 10 - 100
K 100 - 650
Mg 10 - 95
Ca 70 - 300
S 20 - 250
Fe 0.5 - 6
Mn 0.3 - 4
B 0.1 - 0.8
Zn 0.1 - 0.5
Cu 0.05 - 0.1
Mo 0.02 - 0.07
Even within these ranges, nutrient elements can become very
unbalanced if the ratios are incorrect. Leaf analysis of
crops is a good indicator for acceptable ratios for a formulation
within the above range. The ratios for a hydroponic
nutrient for any new crop can be estimated from leaf analysis of a
well grown plant, as if a plant appears to be thriving
and producing well, then we can assume its nutrient mineral content
is optimum, hence tissue analysis will give the
nutrient ratios optimum for the root zone solution. This basic formula
can then be fine tuned during different crop
growth stages and seasons. Some indications for acceptable ratios of
major nutrient elements are given below.
Element Ratio Ratio
N: P 3 - 8
N:K 0.25 - 1.5
Ca:N 0.8 - 1.2
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[ ] August 21, 2015
Mg:N 0.1 - 0.4
P:S 0.6 - 1
CF and EC PPM.
'CF' or 'EC' is a commonly used measure to determine the strength of
a hydroponic nutrient solution. As salts disso-ciate
into ions in solution, they carry a positive or negative charge (eg
KNO3 --> K+ + NO3-,) which can transmit
electricity. Pure water will not transmit electricity, but as soon as
salts are added, the ability of the solution to conduct
electricity increases. This conductance increases with increasing
solution strength. CF (Conductivity Factor) and EC
(Electrical Conductivity) are a measure of this characteristic of
nutrient salt solutions.
While CF seems to be a very convenient measure, there are problems
associated with relying only on CF to control
hydroponic nutrient formulae.
I) The CF will be roughly the same regardless of the element content
of the solution. A nutrient solution with CF 20 can
not be distinguished from a sodium chloride solution with CF 20.
ii) Different nutrient salts show different capacities to conduct
electricity when in solution, so that depending on the nutrient
ratios and the individual salts used, the CF may give a very different
indication of the true ionic strength of the solution. A
solution of potassium nitrate at CF20 will be approximately half the
strength (in ppm) of a solution of magnesium sulfate at
CF20. This is because potassium nitrate conducts nearly twice as
much electricity at the same ionic strength.
iii) Even if the nutrient element content of the formula was known
accurately at the start, once the solution has been
recirculating through a growing crop for a few weeks, the element
content changes - the CF may well stay the same.
Conductivity of Some Common Hydroponic Nutrients at 2000 PPM
SALT mg/l CF EC
Calcium Nitrate 2000 20 2
Potassium Nitrate 2000 25 2.5
Magnesium Sulfate 2000 12 1.2
The CF of a nutrient formulation is a combination of the CF
contributed by all the dissociated nutrient salts from the A
and B stock solutions as well as impurities from the water supply,
and is not really any indication of the quality of the
formula, just an estimate of its strength. In hydroponics the only way
to determine the nutrient makeup of a formula is
either to have a complete mineral analysis done, use a range of
specific ion meters or to calculate the nutrients in
advance and use these in drain to waste systems. Any solution in
recirculating hydroponics will change over time.
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[ ] August 21, 2015
Outside of hydroponics CF may not even be a measure of the
strength of a formula, as a range of nutrients (eg Urea)
and compounds (eg fungicides) are added to water in fertigation or
spraying which do not conduct electricity.
PPM
The other common indicator for hydroponic nutrient strength is
PPM, or parts per million. 1 part per million is equiv-alent
to 1 mg per litre, or 1 g per m
3
. In theory, this is a measure of the actual strength of the nutrient
elements in
solution, and would seem to be an ideal measurement for
hydroponics. However, measuring this in practice is very
difficult for a grower in hydroponics.
Why Not TDS Meters?
An alternative to solve the problems with CF as a measurement may
seem to be to use 'TDS' or total dissolved solids
as a measure of nutrient solution strength, and if 'TDS Meters' in fact
did this, it would solve the problems. However a
'TDS' meter is simply a 'CF' meter with different calibration and
display - it still only measures electrical conductivity,
and in fact is less accurate because of the assumptions made
regarding the salt makeup of the solution - many
assume sodium chloride and have a fixed conversion factor (eg
70ppm per CF unit) which can not be adjusted for
different solution formulations. TDS meters which can be calibrated
for different formulations are a better alternative,
but still are only measuring CF in reality.
CF Effects on Plant Growth
If we assume that in hydroponics, the CF is a measure of the strength
of a nutrient solution, this has a significant
affect on the growth of plants, regardless of the mineral content of
the solution.
Osmosis describes the behaviour of ions in solution when separated
by a semi-permeable membrane, as for example
at the interface of root cells and nutrient solution. The concentration
of ions on either side of the membrane deter-mines
the net flow of ions through the membrane, as if ions are more
concentrated in solution than in root cells and
the membrane permits the transmission of ions, then ions will tend to
flow into the roots. This process is known as
'passive' transport or diffusion, and is assisted by the flow of water in
the transpiration stream of the plant. In fact, root
cells tend to maintain quite high 'osmotic potentials' but low
concentrations of ions which attract water and ions into the
roots. Some ions, Ca
2+
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and K+, NO
3-
, for example, are able to be transported into root cells, even against
a concen-tration
gradient by the energy requiring process of active transport. Once
water and ions are inside the roots they
diffuse through into the xylem vessels and flow with the
transpiration stream up into the stem. A natural reaction of
some plants to increasing solution strength, is to accumulate
assimilates in the leaves and fruit to equalise the osmotic
potential with the root zone.
This explanation may seem complicated, but it is the basis for the
effects noticed by increasing or decreasing CF in
hydroponics. CF influences the 'osmotic potential' of the solution in
the root zone, which influences the plant's rate of
water and nutrient uptake, and the adjustments made to osmotic
potential inside the plant. Increasing CF will reduce
water uptake by the crop, and cause many crops to concentrate
organic compounds in fruit and foliage. Increasing CF
tends to slow vegetative growth, and 'harden' plants. Conversely,
lowering CF will increase water uptake, and produce
lush soft growth. Consequently, the CF of solutions is normally
increased during winter and for fruiting crops, while
summer growing and leafy crops are normally run at a low CF to
maintain optimum quality.
CF can be maintained at higher levels in solution culture than in
media or drain to waste systems. In solution
culture there is a constant supply of water and the CF does not
fluctuate in the root zone, whereas in media
systems evaporation from the surface of the media and plant water
uptake can result in the CF becoming much
higher in the rootzone than in the 'feed' solution. The ratio of CF in
the feed to rootzone and leachate solutions
needs to be well regulated in drain-to waste systems, and CF 'in'
(feed) and CF 'out' (drainage) are standard
daily measurements.
pH
The pH of a nutrient formula is the measure of acidity below pH 7 or
alkaline above pH 7. It is defined as the "inverse
log of the hydrogen ion concentration". The practical implication of
this definition is that each pH reduction of 1 unit
actually means the formula becomes 10 X more acidic, a solution
with a pH of 4 is 10 x more acidic than pH 5, and
100 x more acidic than pH 6.
pH and Formulations
The strength (CF) of the formula does not affect the pH, but it does
affect the 'buffering capacity' at any pH. This is
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demonstrated by the amount of acid/alkali needed to change pH by 1
unit at different CF - as CF increases, more pH
adjuster is needed to alter pH by the same amount.
Different formulations will have different starting pH values,
because different salts become more or less acidic when
dissolved into water. Salts such as monopotassium phosphate lower
the pH more than salts such as calcium nitrate.
Most formulations will result in an initial pH of around 5.5 - 6.0,
which is ideal for the growth of most crops. This pH
results from only the commonly used salts being dissolved into stock
solutions, and so addition of acid or alkali to
stock solutions is usually unnecessary. However, these pH levels
assume neutral water supplies, if the water supply
has a high pH, along with high 'alkalinity' then the pH of the stock
solutions when diluted into water will be quite
different. 'Alkalinity' refers to the strength of the high pH, as a water
supply with high alkalinity will require more,
stronger acid, to reduce the pH by the same amount as a water supply
with low alkalinity. This inherent buffering ability
will carry on into the nutrient formulation. It is best to correct the pH
of unsuitable water before making up the stock
solutions
In hydroponics, some salts can be used to influence the pH control of
the nutrient solution, reducing the requirement
for acids during growth development phases of the crop. Ammonium
nitrate is one salt used for this purpose, and the
optimum amount seems to be that which provides 15% of the total
nitrogen of the formula in the ammonium form.
Ammonium in nutrient solution tends to be acidifying, as firstly
unlike nitrate it is a positive ion, and when taken up by
plants is replaced by hydrogen ions reducing pH in the root zone, and
secondly ammonium forms ammonium
hydroxide and hydrogen ions which produces a mild acidifying
effect when in solution.
pH and Hydroponic Crop Growth
Consideration of pH is important for hydroponic growers, because
the pH of the solution affects the solubility of
elements, and their availability to plants. Most problems occur where
pH becomes too high, above 7, resulting in
firstly iron then manganese and calcium forming insoluble salts
which precipitate out of solution. As the pH
increases above 7, plant uptake of some ions becomes less efficient,
so plants become deficient even if the ion
is present in solution.
As plants remove some ions from solution, the solution pH drifts,
upwards or downwards. If left uncontrolled,
typically the pH will drift downwards (to approx 4.5) for several
days after planting a new crop, after which the pH
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will steadily increase (to approx 7 or above). This feature is due to
the differential uptake of ions from solution,
with the release of hydrogen (H+) or hydroxyl (OH-) ions from the
root system. As positive ions, cations (Ca
2 +
, K+,
M g
2 +
etc) are removed from solution, hydrogen ions are released from the
plant root system to equalise the ratio
of anions to cations in the root zone. This lowers the pH of the
solution. As the crop commences active growth
anions (NO 3 etc) are taken up which increases pH through the
release of hydroxyl ions into solution.
Hydroponic Nutrient Formulation Basics
The range of hydroponic nutrient formulations available seems very
diverse, and yet if we look closely at their content
there are several underlying principles involved in formulating
hydroponic nutrient solutions. The following are some
standard features of hydroponic formulations:
Reason for ‘2-Part’ 'A' and 'B' mix.
In order to combine all the elements commonly needed for plant
growth into a concentrated form, the salts need
to be mixed into 2 separate solutions. The reason for this is that,
while in dilute solution all ions become soluble,
in concentrated solution certain ions react together to form insoluble
salts. If an ion is in an insoluble salt, it is no
longer available for plant growth. Once 'precipitated' it can only very
slowly dissolve back into solution when
diluted again. Precipitation is simply the result of two ions
combining in solution to form a salt which is insoluble,
eg when calcium nitrate and magnesium sulfate are added to water in
strong solutions the salts dissociate
producing magnesium nitrate along with calcium and sulfate ions
which then combine to form calcium sulfate or
gypsum which 'precipitates'. This occurs because compounds such as
calcium sulfate have very low 'saturation'
values (see later)and can not exist as concentrated solutions.
Generally it is necessary to keep the calcium
separate from the sulfate and phosphate salts. Therefore the calcium
nitrate and calcium chloride is kept
separate from the magnesium sulfate, potassium sulfate, sulfates of
trace elements, and monopotassium
phosphate, all other salts can be mixed in either A or B. There are
certain brands of nutrient which seem to
combine all elements into a single mix, but the manufacture of these
products is beyond the reach of most
g r o w e r s .
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Grow vs Bloom, Summer vs Winter, Drain-to-Waste vs NFT
Plants in nutrient solution culture will remove different ions faster
from solution at different stages of growth or
development, as well as during different light and temperature
conditions, and if left unchecked this quickly
results in formulations being unbalanced. Note that unbalanced does
not necessarily mean 'precipitated', or
' t o x i c ' .
While there are for example, 'Grow' and 'Bloom' formulae available,
it is important to note that using eg a
"Bloom" formula will not suddenly force vegetative plants to
commence flowering and fruiting, any more than
using a "Summer" formula produces fine weather. The differences
between the formulae is simply to allow the
nutrient solution to remain balanced for longer periods, while
estimating the likely rate of removal of certain ions
from solution under different conditions.
In general, as plants grow from being vegetative to flowering and
fruiting, the uptake of potassium and phosphorus
increases in proportion to nitrogen. Therefore a 'Bloom' formula will
typically have more potassium or a higher K:N
ratio than the equivalent 'Grow' formula. Other changes can result
from the increased K:N ratio, the pH of the formu-lation
can become slightly lower, the working CF may become higher, and
the amount of magnesium supplied can
also increase to avoid potassium induced magnesium deficiency,
common for example on tomatoes with heavy fruit
loads. Conversely a 'Grow' formula will provide a higher N:K ratio,
slightly lower CF at the same dilution, and less
extreme variation between the ratios.
Plants growing under low light conditions and cold temperatures
usually take up extra potassium, and tolerate a higher
CF. Therefore a 'Winter' formula may be similar to a 'Bloom' and
summer formula can be similar to 'grow'. The CF for
warm, high light conditions is usually lower to allow for increased
transpiration and water uptake.
The differences between the two sets of formulae becomes more
extreme the further the grower is from the equator,
and obviously depends on the crop being grown. For example a
Norwegian tomato grower is likely to make bigger
changes to their nutrient solution during the year, than a lettuce
grower in Singapore.
The difference between growing in media and drain to waste,
compared to recirculating solution as in NFT, is mainly
due to the CF and the fact that nutrients do not become unbalanced in
media systems to the extent that they can in
NFT. Generally solutions used for media and drain to waste are run
at lower CF than if the same solution was running
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in a recirculating solution culture system. For example a capsicum
grower using rockwool may apply nutrient solution
at a CF 16, whereas in NFT the same solution would be used at CF
25. This difference is due to the solution applied
being at a different CF to the 'root zone', and the drainage solution in
media systems. Some media are reported to
influence the retention or chemical nature of the applied nutrient
solution especially the pH, but this is often only a
minor problem when using new material, and in the case of pH
alteration is easily managed. In reality, there should be
no difference between nutrient solutions used for different growing
systems other than the working CF, and the
frequency of replacement.
Strength and Dilution
There is a physical and chemical limit to the amount of salts which
can be dissolved into nutrient stock solution. This
limit, the saturation value, is different for each salt, and restricts most
formulations to a maximum dilution rate of 500 -1000
times. This value varies depending on how the formula is split
between A and B, and the predominant salts used,
for example, much more calcium nitrate can be dissolved into 1 litre
of water than potassium nitrate. Above the
saturation value for a particular salt, the salt remains in crystal form
and does not dissociate in solution. A useful
practice to overcome this limitation is to split the potassium nitrate
requirement of the formula equally between the A
and B solutions - as potassium nitrate has the lowest saturation value
of the major salts, this increases the potential
concentration of the formula above what could be achieved if all the
potassium nitrate was in part A or B.
Solution ‘Balancing’
Under certain conditions, for example if alternating between 'A' and
'B' stock solutions in drain to waste, it is useful if
both stock solutions each have the same CF when diluted for use. In
this situation the ratio of potassium nitrate in A to
B is adjusted until the CF are the same. Normally, this is not
important, and the CF of 'B' is usually about 1.5 or 2
times the CF of 'A' if potassium nitrate is not divided between A and
B. When both are diluted equally the correct CF
will result.
Buying Pre-Made or Make Your Own
It was commonly suggested by nutrient manufacturers that it was
false economy if not disastrous for mere growers to
attempt to make their own nutrient formulations. Often these
suggestions were prompted by commercial interests, and
the few failures that occurred in growers making their own nutrients
were capitalised on and used as examples of why
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growers should only trust 'reputable' nutrient manufacturers.
However, there are significant cost benefits to making your own
nutrient formulations, there is great flexibility, and if
done correctly growers are likely to end up with a better formula.
There are of course advantages and disadvantages to both situations.
Buy Pre-Made If . . .
You can not obtain all the correct nutrient salts at an economical
price or acceptable quality.
You do not have weighing equipment capable of weighing down to
about 5g (small amounts for trace elements are
weighed out in large amounts and the stock solutions diluted into A
or B)
You do not have the time to weigh out salts and dissolve them.
Good brands are available which you have used successfully, and
the price difference to change isn't warranted.
You do not see the need to change your formula during growth.
You don't have the information or understand the calculations
involved in making your own nutrient formula.
You don't trust your own ability to make a correct decision.
You like to have someone else to blame if things go wrong.
Make Your Own If . . .
You can spare the time.
You want to save money, where salts are available and cheap
with good quality.
You want to optimise your nutrient solution so you are not
dumping so frequently - save money again.
You have the equipment to weigh and measure salts.
You would like to customise your solution to crop growth and
environment to get better results.
You can handle the calculations and you have the correct
information.
You want to maintain flexibility.
You get nutrient analysis done every so often and you are
confident you know what to do.
Memahami Kandungan Unsur dalam Baja
( Decoding Nutrient Solutions )- Mohammad
Abdul Rahman
By عبدالرحمن on Wednesday, 5 June 2013 at 12:00 محمد
Plants require nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K), along
with other elements known as macro- and micronutrients, to grow
well. In the wild, plants send out roots and try to find usable sources
of these elements. In a garden, these nutrients are usually supplied
(one way or another) by the gardener via fertilizers. With fertilizers,
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the gardener adds material that contains the desired elements in
forms that are either immediately available to the plant, such as is the
case with many nutrient salts, or will break down gradually over time
to become available to the plant, as organic materials tend to do. In
either case it is in the best interest of the gardener to have some idea
of the nutritional value of the fertilizer being added, both to make
sure that they don’t overfeed or insufficiently feed their plants, and
to make sure that they aren’t adding several sources of one element
and not enough of another.
Nutrient solutions are generally based on true solutions, although the
math works out the same even if they are mixtures instead.
A solution is made of at least two substances. The majority of the
solution will be the solvent (in aqueous solutions, like those used in
gardening, the solvent used is water). The substance dissolved into
the water is known as the solute. The amount of solute in a solution
determines the solution’s concentration. To put is simply, the more
nutrient added to the water, the stronger the solution becomes.
Knowing what elements (nutrients) a solute (the fertilizer) has, and at
what strength they are in, is important to calculating the final nutrient
solution given to the plants. To help with this, fertilizers are marked
with an N-P-K listing values to help gardeners get an idea of how
much N, P and K is in the bottle or bag.
Parts per hundred is a pretty common way to relate two things,
although it is more commonly referred to as percent. For example, a
fertilizer with an N-P-K rating of 10-5-14, is made of 10 parts N per
100 parts of fertilizer. Another way to express that is to say it is 10%
N. In the case of N, the N-P-K value listed and the amount of
elemental N are the same. For P and K, their N-P-K values are for
the oxide forms. Phosphorus oxide is 43.6 parts per 100 elemental P,
so—using the N-P-K value above—multiplying 5 by 0.436 will give
the elemental P value of 2.18 parts per hundred, or 2.18%. Potassium
oxide is 83% elemental K, so a final N-P-K value of 14 would
indicate a fertilizer that is 11.62% K (0.83 x 14 = 11.62).
While knowing that the composition of our solute is 10% N, 2.18% P
and 11.62% K tells us some useful information about the proportions
of what we are putting into the water to make our solution,
concentration is another critical factor. As this is a pretty potent
nutrient, the difference between mixing 1 mg per liter and 1 tsp (5
mg) per liter makes for a very different experience for the plants (this
is why I recommend at least reading the recommended feeding rates
even if you don’t follow them exactly). Just how big of a difference
can be shown with a little more math and the numbers we already
have.
1 liter of water weighs 1,000 g. If we add 1 g of solute, the total
weight becomes 1,001 g. Since our solute is 1 g of 10% elemental N,
we can calculate the weight of the element: 10% of 1 g = 0.1 g.
Since fertilizers are added to in small amounts, and the amount of the
desired elements are only a fraction of those small amounts, it is
common to use parts per million (ppm) to express how much of each
element is in the nutrient solution. Parts per million is used for
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concentrations smaller than can be easily expressed in parts per
hundred (percent), but larger than those commonly expressed in parts
per billion. To calculate ppm, simply divide the weight of element in
solute by the total weight of solution and multiply that total by one
million. So, using the data from our example for N:
(0.1 g N / 1,001 g) x 1,000,000 = 100 ppm elemental N.
We can also calculate the value of P and K using this same formula.
(0.0218 g P / 1,001 g) x 1,000,000 = 22 ppm elemental P
(0.1162 g K / 1,001mg) x 1,000,000 = 116 ppm elemental K
So, if 1 g of this nutrient is added per liter, the nutrient solution will
have 100 ppm N, 22 ppm P and 116 ppm K—which is in the ballpark
for many plants that aren’t actively fruiting. Since plants can survive
twice those values, going as high as 2 gm per liter would be
reasonable to work up to.
Note: if gallons are easier for you to work/mix in, simply multiply
the 1 g by 3.78541 to get the amount to add per gallon (in this case,
3.78541 g).
Back to our example, if you were to use 1 tsp per liter (or a heaping
tablespoon per gallon) instead of 1 g, calculating ppm shows how
dramatic a difference that makes for your plants. Here is the math:
1 tsp = 5 g.
Weight of N in solute = 0.5 g (10% of 5 g)
Weight of P is solute = 0.109 g (2.18% of 5 g)
Weight of K in solute = 0.581 g (11.62% of 5 g)
Total weight of solution = 1,005 g (1,000 g water + 5 g solute)
So,
(0.5 g / 1,005 g) x 1,000,000 = 498 ppm of elemental N
(0.109 g / 1,005 g) x 1,000,000 = 108 ppm of elemental P
(0.581 g / 1,005 g) x 1,000,000 = 578 ppm of elemental K
This will almost certainly cause overfeeding problems.
Also note that the equation can be reversed to estimate a dose from a
desired ppm. If a concentration of 150 ppm of N is the goal (and
we’re using our sample solute of 10% N), then:
150 ppm = 10% x 1,000,000 x amount to add / 1,000 g (ish).
This reduces to:
150 ppm = 0.1 x 1,000 mg x amount to add.
Leading to the answer of:
1.5 g = amount to add.
One of the most important statistics to consider in formulating a
feeding schedule is the ppm of each element of the final solution. By
running the numbers on paper, schedules can be evaluated (even if
they use several different components in concert). Also, not only can
current feeding schedules be analyzed, but they can be adjusted to
produce specific ppm solutions for different stages of plant growth.
For those that follow the manufacturer’s recommended application
schedule, these types of calculations should already have been into
account. However, for those gardeners who like to experiment while
trying to perfect their own feeding regimen concentrations, these
types of calculations can be critical.
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Oh, and if math isn’t your strong suit, or you would just prefer not to
do the calculations yourself, don’t despair! There are free nutrient
calculators online that can be used to compute the ppm values with a
minimal effort on your part.
PULVIC/HUMIC ACID- Mohammad Abdul
Rahman
By عبدالرحمن on Wednesday, 5 June 2013 at 12:06 محمد
A Golden Opportunity: Fulvic Acid/humic acid
Fulvic acid is one of the most well-balanced and vital minerals on
Earth. Dubbed the miracle molecule due to the sheer number of
functions it performs, fulvic acid is a truly unparalleled compound.
The plant and animal kingdoms rely on its benefits to support all life
on the planet.
Originating from the word fulvus (Latin for yellow), fulvic acid is
named for its natural golden honey color. Fulvic acid is a natural
acidic organic polymer. This means that it is not a single molecule,
but rather a combination of many different molecules with similar
chemical properties. Fulvic acids, along with humic acids, are
compounds found in humus— organic material that was metabolized
by fungi and microorganisms over millions of years—and are some
of the most biologically rich substances available. Thanks to its
molecular structure, fulvic acid has specific advantages over other
humic substances. In order to isolate fulvic acid, it must undergo an
additional extraction process using either acid or cold purified water
to separate it from humic acid. (For best results in the garden, use
only high-grade, non-chemical, cold-water extracted fulvic acid.)
Humic substances—such as fulvic and humic acid—commonly used
in hydroponic and horticultural applications are sourced from areas
rich with deposits known as humates. These humates include
materials like peat moss, lignite, Leonardite and humic shale, and
they are found in areas rich with mineraloid deposits, such as aquatic
ecosystems, bogs, marshes and dry lakebeds. The quality of the
products is directly related to the source of the humates from which
they were derived. Fulvic acids extracted from Leonardite prove to
be the best quality products on the market due to their high
percentage of fulvic content.
While fulvic acid is often recognized as an ingredient in several
horticultural products, many people might not realize what specific
features and benefits this powerful supplement has to offer. The
simple incorporation of fulvic acid into an existing nutrient schedule
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promotes a noticeable difference in the health, vitality and overall
productivity of indoor and outdoor gardens.
One of the most important features that fulvic acid offers the
horticulture industry is its natural ability to chelate nutrients. The
word chelate is derived from the Greek word chele, which literally
means claw. Fulvic acid acts like a claw to bond with macro- and
micronutrients that might otherwise be inaccessible to the plant.
Without the help of the fulvic acid, many of the larger molecules that
are unable to permeate cell walls would not make it into the plant
and get washed away in runoff water. However, once minerals fuse
with the fulvic acid, they become bioactive and chemically available
to the plant where they are needed most. This is because fulvic acid
—due to its low molecular weight—can easily penetrate the cell
walls of plant tissue, allowing the larger nutrient molecules to
piggyback their way into the plant. Once the chelated minerals are
inside the plant, the fulvic acid acts as a delivery system to transport
the nutrients to the parts of the plant where they will serve the best
functions.
The increased uptake of nutrients with the help of fulvic acid
maximizes the efficiency of the nutrients in any synthetic or organic
fertilizer (amazingly, one fulvic acid molecule has the capacity to
transport dozens upon dozen of minerals into the cells of a plant). It
naturally increases the plant’s metabolism and increases enzymatic
activity, making food more available to satiate the plant’s growing
appetite. Furthermore, it helps the plant retain and fully utilize
nutrients. This heightened efficiency results in fewer nutrients
needed over time, which saves money for gardeners!
Fulvic acid can be used indoor or outdoor in soil or hydroponic
systems, and is completely safe for organic gardeners. It can be
added to a nutrient solution and watered in as a root drench, or it can
be applied as a foliar feed. Fulvic acid also contains over 70
nourishing trace minerals and when mixed with water, these vital
trace elements and minerals become readily available to the plant.
When used as a root drench in soil gardens, fulvic acid helps
improve soil structure by delivering macro- and micronutrients
directly to the root zone, encouraging healthy growth. If used as a
foliar spray, fulvic acid will increase the amount of internodes or bud
sites on a flowering plant. It also promotes sturdy stalks and stems
while correcting minor deficiencies that might be present within the
plant.
Another benefit of fulvic acid is that it increases drought tolerance in
plants. By increasing the permeability of the cell walls in plant
matter, fulvic acid allows for plants to intake more water. With the
heightened capacity to retain water, plants stay quenched for longer
periods of time. This drought tolerance and water retention aid in
monetary, as well as resource, savings. Also, hydrated plants are
happy plants.
As if that is not enough, the list of functions that fulvic acid performs
goes on. It acts as a highly effective natural immunity booster for
plants. By infusing plants with an abundance of minerals and trace
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elements, fulvic acid helps to boost their resistance to a host of
environmental problems, such as disease, mold, fungi and insect
infestation.
Fulvic acid also works as a natural detoxifier and protective agent. It
removes toxicity from poisonous herbicides and pesticides from the
plant’s system. It acts as a natural antioxidant that neutralizes free
radicals by scavenging for unpaired positive or negative electrons
and supplying them with an opposite charge.
Fulvic acid is also an excellent pH buffer that will slightly lower pH,
help to stabilize drastic fluctuations and retain a steady pH balance.
This is important because plants rely on a specific pH range to make
use of vital nutrients. If the pH solution of a nutrient mix is too low,
or acidic, certain macro- and micronutrients are rendered useless to a
plant and it might become deficient in those minerals. If the pH level
of the feed solution is too high, or alkaline, the mixture could
potentially burn plants. An ideal pH range for most plants lies within
the range of 5.5 to 6.5.
Simple, yet complex, the myriad functions of fulvic acid is
astounding. In prehistoric times on Earth, the planet was rich with
humic substances and fulvic acid was abundant in the natural
environment. Dinosaurs roamed the land and lush verdant plants
grew to gargantuan sizes. Environmental conditions were prime for
oversized life forms. Through evolution, these legendary giant
species of plants and animals have gone extinct, but they left their
biologically rich remains locked within geological burial grounds.
Over the millennia, they have become the raw materials of the fulvic
acid we rely on and utilize in our modern gardens. Although plants
no longer grow to the mammoth proportions that they reached 65
million years ago, growers, gardeners and green thumbs worldwide
can mimic what Mother Nature perfected in ancient times. By
supplementing a normal nutrient regimen with fulvic acid, farmers
can increase the fertility of their crops and encourage bountiful
harvests that yield fruits and veggies rich with nutritional sustenance.
For yields that are worth their weight in gold, try fulvic acid—a
golden opportunity for your garden.
Root Growth Stimulation and Microorganisms -
Mohammad Abdul Rahman
By عبدالرحمن on Wednesday, 5 June 2013 at 11:54 محمد
There is no questioning the importance a healthy root system plays in
creating vibrant plants. After all, the root mass is the main channel
for nutrient absorption, the foundation for structural integrity and the
area where the largest population of beneficial microorganisms can
be found. The more we learn about the physiology of the plant’s
roots, the more we realize how vital these beneficial microorganisms
are—there would be virtually no plant life on the planet without their
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valuable symbiotic relationship with our plants. Throughout the
years, indoor horticulturalists have developed many products and
techniques to promote and enhance the root growth in their gardens.
Every one of these products or techniques is based on the same
philosophy: attempting to mimic, enhance or supplement
microorganisms found in the rhizosphere (the narrow region of soil
affected by root secretions). By using certain additives, a grower can
maximize the size of their plant’s root mass and provide a larger
surface area for moisture and nutrient absorption.
Additives that mimic
One of the many things plants gain from their symbiotic partnership
with microorganisms is accelerated nutrient uptake. This is a result
of by-product enzymes produced by the microorganisms. Enzymes
are catalysts that accelerate the rate at which chemical reactions
occur. In this case, the chemical reaction is the uptake of nutrients by
the plants roots. Your favorite enzyme formula designed for root
enhancement is most likely a concentration of specific enzymes
secreted by beneficial microorganisms. Hydroponic horticulturalists
gain the largest benefit from these enzyme formulations, especially if
they use hydroponic systems that have no medium that would
naturally harbor beneficial microbes. Growers who supplement
enzyme formulas are essentially bypassing the microbes themselves
and directly placing specific enzymes in the root zone.
Additives that enhance
Both parties must benefit for a relationship to be symbiotic. We
know that beneficial microbes colonize on the root zone, thus
preventing infections from pathogenic fungus, and produce enzymes
that speed nutrient absorption. But how do the microorganisms
benefit from the relationship? The answer is sugars—more
specifically, carbohydrates that are translocated from the plant
(usually from the leaves) to the roots for the microbes to feed on.
The microorganisms use the carbohydrates for energy, which allows
them to function and reproduce. This is why carbohydrate
supplements are so popular in the indoor gardening industry. By
directly supplementing carbohydrates to the root zone, a grower can
accelerate the reproductive rate of beneficial microorganisms while
allowing the plant to retain a good portion of the carbohydrates
normally secreted through its roots. The carbohydrates that remain in
the plant can be used for other purposes like creating terpenes and
terpenoids, which are imperative for promoting flavor, smell and
essential oils. However, growers that supplement carbohydrates
should always be on the look out for any sign of a pathogenic
microorganism infection, as these microorganisms feed on
carbohydrates as well. Supplementing carbohydrates to pathogens
will accelerate their reproduction and can be devastating, so growers
should immediately stop supplementing carbohydrates at the first
sign of a potential pathogenic infection.
Supplying additional microorganisms
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[ ] August 21, 2015
The most logical way to promote additional microorganisms into the
growing medium is to directly supplement them. Almost every
nutrient manufacturer has designed some sort of beneficial
microorganism supplement, and the most common strains of
beneficial microorganisms used can be broken down into three
categories: trichoderma, mycorrhiza and beneficial bacteria. All three
types of supplements come as a liquid, a powder or in enclosed
packets that resemble tea bags. Liquid microorganism supplements
are usually designed, in both their composition and pH value,
specifically for hydroponic systems. The powder form
microorganism supplements have a longer shelf life than their liquid
counterparts, and they are more compatible with soil or coco coir.
The packets are suitable for both hydroponic and soil applications,
and have about the same shelf life as the powder formulas. No matter
which form you decide to use, always make sure to check the
expiration date. As with food expiration dates, this date is not an
absolute (not every one of the strains of beneficial microorganisms
will die on that date); however, the formula will be less effective if it
is way past its prime.
Trichoderma
Trichoderma is a genus of fungi found in all soils. Members feed on
other fungi and cellulose by releasing chitinase enzymes, which
break down chitin (the main component of fungal cell walls), and
cellulase enzymes, which break down cellulose. Trichoderma’s
symbiotic relationship with plants is directly related to those two
enzymes. In environments where there is an abundance of
pathogenic microbes, which could cause disease in plants,
trichoderma will produce more chitinase enzymes and rely on the
pathogens as their main food source. This is why many growers add
trichoderma to their medium as a precautionary measure against any
pathogens in or around the plants’ roots. The other enzyme,
cellulase, can be beneficial in two ways. First, it makes certain
nutrients available to the plant for uptake as it breaks down organic
material in the soil. Secondly, trichoderma’s production of cellulase
allows the fungus to penetrate the cells in a plant’s roots. When the
plant senses this, it turns on its natural defenses, which help boost the
plant’s immune system. Since trichoderma cause the plant no real
harm, both parties benefit—trichoderma gets sugars from the roots
and the plant gets a heightened resistance to unwanted pests.
Mycorrhiza
Mycorrhiza literally means fungus-root, and it is this fungus strain
that is the true definition of a symbiotic relationship (over 90% of
plant species in nature form a symbiotic relationship with these
amazing creatures). These specialized fungi are essentially
extensions of the root system, stretching far into the depths of the
soil. In fact, mycorrhizal fungi can increase the absorbing surface
area of a plant’s roots by 100 to 1000 times, which greatly improves
access to soil resources.
As with trichoderma, it is the enzymes mycorrhizae produce that
make them so invaluable to their plant partners. Mycorrhizae release
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[ ] August 21, 2015
enzymes that dissolve otherwise hard to capture nutrients, such as
organic nitrogen, phosphorus and iron. The intricate web of
mycorrhizal fungus captures and assimilates nutrients for the plant,
and in return, the plants’ roots secrete sugars or carbon for the fungi
to feed on. Mycorrhizae can be broken down further into
subcategories; of these, two are commonly used in indoor
horticulture: endomycorrhiza and ectomycorrhiza.
Endomycorrhiza
Endomycorrhizae are mycorrhizae whose hyphae (the branching
filamentous structures of a fungus) penetrate the plant cells. The
hyphae do not penetrate the interior of the cell, but essentially turn
the cell membrane inside out. This increases the contact surface area
between the hyphae and the cytoplasm, helping facilitate the transfer
of nutrients between them.
Ectomycorrhiza
Ectomycorrhizae are fungi that bear a hyphal sheath that surrounds
the root tip. Ectomycorrhiza also have a Hartig net, which is
basically an extended hypha that surrounds the outer layer of the root
mass. It is the Hartig net that allows the transfer of nutrients, carbon
and sugars, and completes the symbiotic relationship. An interesting
fact about ectomycorrhiza is that plants sharing the same soil can
actually transfer nutrients to one another through the ectomycorrhizal
mycelium network.
Beneficial bacteria
Beneficial bacteria have made a strong impression in the indoor
horticultural industry because they can be used as a foliar treatment,
as well as a soil or medium additive. When added to the soil or
medium, beneficial bacteria quickly colonize and feed off organic
matter or pathogenic microorganisms. As they break down organic
matter, they turn it into soluble compounds that are more easily
absorbed by plants. The consumption of the pathogenic
microorganisms is beneficial because pathogens that are eaten can’t
adversely affect the plant. Organic fungicide and pesticide
manufacturers have jumped on the beneficial bacteria bandwagon as
well, since certain bacteria (bacillus subtilis, for example) will
consume pathogenic fungus on the surface of a plant’s leaves as well
as in the soil. Many insects also refuse to feed or lay their eggs on
plants that have been sprayed with beneficial bacteria formulas.
Just as every garden is different, every gardener’s methods and
techniques will differ greatly. However, regardless of the technique
or method used, it is crucial for every indoor horticulturist to
stimulate the growth going on below the surface. Current innovative
horticultural products allow growers to mimic, enhance or
supplement microorganisms, or—better yet—combine all three
approaches to supercharge the complex microscopic ecosystem that
is the foundation for plant health and vitality.
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SENARAI BENIH / JENAMA / KOD / BERAT /
HARGA
By Wizan Zaini on Monday, 4 March 2013 at 23:48
CILI
Kulai 568 : 10gm (1600biji) : RM20/paket
Kulai 568 : 80gm : RM130-RM180/tin
Hup Nong : Cili 151:RM48
Known-You Seed : Cili S469 (1500biji) : 10gm:RM90
(3000biji) :20gm:RM180
Leckat Seeds : f1 Abang Pedas 9000 :10gm:RM70
BENDI
Leckat Seed : 989 Jackpot (200gm) : RM95/tin
BENIH TIMUN
Leckat Seed : Symphony 747 (100gm) : RM180/tin
Hup Nong : Timun 108 : RM
Hup Nong : Timun 115 : RM
Known-You-Seeds:Timun S252 New Swallow 20gm:RM50(700-
800biji)
ROCKMELON
Sakata : Glamour: 100 biji : RM18-25
Known-You-Seeds:Golden Langkawi 20gm:RM240(700-800biji)
Chiap Hup Seeds : Melon Appollo 20gm:RM190(700-800biji)
KAILAN
Leckat Seed : Kailan 11 : RM23/paket
Tips ringkas penanaman terung fertigasi
By Izam Ijam on Friday, 12 April 2013 at 20:54
semai biji benih dalam dulang semaian lebihkan 50% dari yang kita
nak tanam kerana kadar percambahan benih terung biasanya sangat
kurang.
atau semai terus di dalam polibeg sebaris dari baris2 yang kita mahu
tanam.
setelah 25 -28 hari semaian.pindahkan anak benih tersebut.kalau
yang semai dalam polibeg pisahkan anak benih tersebut,ambil yang
elok sahaja pembesaranya.
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[ ] August 21, 2015
dripkan baja AB pada kadar 2.0 sehingga agak lembab media
tersebut,siram 2 kali sehari pagi dan petang 2 minggu pertama
selama 5 minit sekali siraman.
ganti anak pokok yang rosak atau mati jika ada.
apabila masuk minggu ketiga tambah siraman ke 3 kali sehari dan
turunkan ec kepada 1.8..seterusnya jika pokok sudah mencapai
ketinggian 2 kaki,buang tunas air atau tunas ketiak sehingga cabang
Y..
setelah buang semua tunas,tambahkan siraman kepada 4 kali sehari
selama 5 minit pada kadar ec 2.5.
apabila bunga telah kelihatan,buang semua daun bawah,
dan apabila putik telah keluar perhatikan buah yang pada tangkai
yang pertama sahaja di ambil..yang lain buang.
1 tangkai bunga maksimum 2 biji sahaja di ambil kerana buah yang
lain agak kecil.seeloknya hanya 1 buah sahaja setiap putik..
tambahkan siraman mengikut keperluan pokok dan cuaca..
ec maksimum 3.5 ec..
apabila buah peringkat ketiga selepas 2 peringkat di petik,
masukkan mg dalam tangki siraman pada kadar 500g=600g air..
buat 2 minggu sekali bertujuan untuk mencantikkan warna buah
terung.
setelah usia pokok mencecah 6 bulan selepas tanam,kalau nak bela
lagi pun boleh.
cantas pokok dan kurangkan cabang2 nya..masukkan ammonium
nitrat atau urea pada kadar 1 kg= 600g sekali sahaja.
pokok terung akan tunas dan buah semula.akan tetapi buah pada gred
c lah...
serangga pula.
white fly..biasa bawah daun akan jadi jelaga hitam kalau banyak
sangat.
hamama merah..daun akan berkeruping keperangan
thrips..paling jahat.buah jadi karat dan daun rosak.
ulat daun..paling kuat makan daun..
ulat batang..batang akan mati lembik dan kemudian kering,patah
ulat buah..suka korek buah.
burung..kalau kebun banyak ulat burung makan ulat sambil jamah
buah.
_________________________________________________________
Nasihat berguna untuk petani cili fertigasi.
By Mohd Zaki Bin Yahya on Saturday, 18 February 2012 at 11:34
Dari Artikel Asal: http://mohdashraf.com
Tahukah anda, bahawa tanaman cili adalah tanaman yang sukar
untuk ditanam?Sebab tu harga cili mahal.
Jika cili mudah di tanam, maka harga cili mesti murah dari dulu lagi.
Tanaman cili fertigasi bukan boleh dibuat sebagai main-main. Anda
perlu sedar yang anda perlukan masa untuk belajar tanam cili ni.
Modal yang diperlukan juga agak tinggi. Ada yang sanggup
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[ ] August 21, 2015
keluarkan wang simpanan, tapi tiada wang untuk modal pusingan.
Kena buat perancangan yang teliti. Jangan hanya budget untuk
modal setup sistem fertigasi sahaja.
Tiada yang mudah. Walaupon meracun 3 hari sekali, tetapi tetap ada
yang kena serangan penyakit. Semua terserah kepadaNya. Kita dah
berusaha sebaik mungkin untuk jaga pokok tersebut.
Saya tanak ada yang sanggup melabur beribu-ribu ringgit hanya
kerana tertarik dengan hasil jualan yang akan diperolehi kelak.
Tidak semestinya anda dapat jual hasil dengan harga yang tinggi.
Harga cili pernah jatuh hingga RM0.80 / kg. Apa yang anda perlu
buat jika harga serendah itu? Bagi saya, cili ni bagaikan pasaran
saham yang turun naik harganya. InsyaAllah jika anda bersabar, akan
tiba masanya pokok anda akan mengeluarkan hasil yang tinggi dan
harga pada masa tu juga tinggi. Itu semua ketentuan pasaran dan
tuhan saja yang dapat berikah hasil yang tinggi atau rezeki yang
banyak kepada anda. Terserah kepadaNya.
Doa yang paling penting.
Saya tahu post saya kali ini akan sedikit menutup periuk nasik saya,
tapi, saya lebih gembira jika ramai yang tangguhkan dulu untuk
ceburi bidang pertanian kerana sedar tentang jenit perih untuk
memulakan sesuatu projek.
Jika anda tidak mampu bahagikan masa di ladang, atau tiada
pembantu yang dapat membantu anda, tangguhkan dulu projek cili
fertigasi anda. Seeloknya, simpan dulu wang anda di dalam saham
amanah.
Bila tiba masa yang sesuai, baru anda mulakan projek. Ada
dikalangan rakan-rakan saya yang gagal dalam pusingan yang
pertama saja kerana terpedaya dengan cerita penanam cili yang dah
berjaya (mesti ada cerita dia tak berjaya, tetapi hanya diceritakan
tentang kisah kejayaan saja).
Sedikit tips dari saya, jika anda kurang berjaya dalam tanaman cili
terutamanya dan projek agro khasnya,
Bila kita dah buat sesuatu projek, dalam masa pengetahuan kita yang
ada pada waktu itu, baja kita dah bagi cukup ikut pengetahuan pada
waktu itu, racun cukup, kawasan bersih, setiap langkah penjagaan
dah buat, sekarang ni semuanya bergantung kepadaNya.
Kalau dah rezeki kita, insyaAllah dapat la hasil yang tinggi.
Dalam masa yang sama, pencarian ilmu tu yang paling penting. Ilmu
yang kita tau ni, umpama setitik air di lautan. Banyak lagi ilmu yang
kita kena pelajari.
Bagi saya, tiada perkataan gagal, yang ada cuma belum berjaya.
Kalau dah berputus asa, masa tu la dikatakan gagal.
Thomas Edison pon kena buat 100 ribu percubaan baru dia berjaya
cipta lampu. Ada 99, 999 percubaan dia yang belum berjaya. Kalau
dia berputus asa, mesti kita tadak lampu sekarang ni.
PANDUAN SEMAIAN BIJI BENIH - oleh Icham
Rizqqah
By عبدالرحمن on Wednesday, 3 April 2013 at 16:27 محمد
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[ ] August 21, 2015
Panduan semaian:
Benih direndam dalam Chitosan selama 4 jam...lepas tu toskan...air
chitosan tu dilarutkan lagi dan semburkan atas peatmoss...lepas tu
bubuh benih cili di dalam lubang tray dan ditimbus setakat
3mm...sembur lagi air chitosan supaya lembap sikit...dan tutup dalam
silvershine selama 4 hari...letak dulang di tempat yg redup...lepas 4
hari buka ss...mula dari dua daun kasi siraman baja anak SRI separuh
dose dua kali seminggu...setiap 10-12 hari sembur dgn Plantbac
campur chitosan...AACTdicampur air tahi cacing sembur seminggu
sekali....pencahayaan buat ikut peringkat pertumbuhan...last 3 hari
sebelum pindah baru buat pelasakkan full
sebaiknya sebelum di rendam , benih di rawat dulu jika tidak pakai
chitosan, rawatan buleh gunakan racun fungus spt provicur atau
mancozeb...rendan ikut dose 4 kali untuk spray rendan sekadar 20
minit. atau buleh gunakan clorox dengan kadar 3 chlorox, 2 sukatan
air....selama 20 minit juga...bilas dan rendam chitosan ..atau buleh
rendam multivitamin baby 5-6 jam bersama air bersih denagn kadar
4-6 titik untuk 1/2 lit air rendaman....benih cepat tumbuh dan sehat
MYCORRHIZAL FUNGUS-Mohammad Abdul
Rahman
By عبدالرحمن on Wednesday, 7 September 2011 at 23:46 محمد
Cara2 penghasilan fungus Mycorrhizal
bahan:
dua guni tanah dari akar pokok akasia dan juga dari pohon buluh
sediakan tapak tempat penghasilan
kawasan lapang di kebun, buat lah kotak kayu dinding saja empat
segi 3’ x 3’ x 4 -6 inci tinggi,atau besar terpulanglah, letak kotak tu
atas tanah, alas denagn guni, isi kotak tu denagn tanah yang 2 guni tu
di gaul sebati, campur pasir ½ guni setinggi 5 inci atau lebih. Buat
peneduh macam rph, korek parit sikit keliling peneduh supaya air
hujan tak masuk kat kotak.
Pokok yang nak di tanam kat kotak tu, ambil pokok rumput biasa,
biji gandum atau padi burung, biji kacang hijau, tabor jarang2 biji
tadi berselang nagn rumput sikit2…….siram pagi petang, biarkan
gandum dan kacang serta rumput tumbuh sendiri, boh baja sikit2 biar
naik subur sikit, baja organic. Biarkan pokok tu matang dan pupus
sendiri…3-4 bulan, dh nak matang jangan siram lagi, biar kering
sendiri, dah pupus, potong batang yang tertinggal separas tanah akar,
rumput pun potong atas jer biar semua akar2 dalam tanah….ambil
semua tanah berakar dan hancurkan, akar2 yang panjang cincang
biar halus, tanah hancur bersama akar tu di jemur biar kering sikit
supaya senang nak di hancurkan lagi, ayak dengan jarring dawai
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[ ] August 21, 2015
nyamuk hijau….ambil yang pass jarring tu………..yang kasar atas
jarring buang, kalu ada akr tas jarring, gumpal2 biar hancur sikit
serbuk yang kita dapat tu mengandungi banyak spores mycorrhizal,
simpan dalam bekas tempat kering, tutup bekas.
Bila nak guna tabor dalam lubang media yang kita buat untuk masuk
anak dari tray, tabor juga keliling sebelum tutup lubang…atau
lembabkan sikit media akar , golek2 akar anah benih pada serbuk
mycorrhizal ( boh dalam pinggan atau dulang senang nak golek)
……..beres
kita guna tanah dari pada akar akasia dan buluh sebab mycorrhizal
selalunya banyak simbiosis pada akar pokok tu..jadi kita ambil
benihlah sebagai starter untuk di biakan dengan tanaman tadi.
Beneficial Fungi Boost Pepper Growth
By Jim Core
January 16, 2003
Beneficial fungi that live on plant roots increased green bell pepper
yields by as much as one-third in studies by Agricultural Research
Service scientists.
Arbuscular mycorrhizal (AM) fungi colonize the roots of most crop
plants and help plants take in phosphorus and other nutrients from
the soil. AM fungi have been diminished by modern agricultural
practices such as tillage, but in many instances can still make
important contributions to productivity, particularly in organic
farming and other systems where little if any chemical fertilizers and
pesticides are used.
David D. Douds, a microbiologist at the ARS Eastern Regional
Research Center in Wyndmoor, Pa., studied four different types of
AM fungi in three plantings from 1997 to 1999. He collaborated with
Carolyn Reider, a horticulturist at the Rodale Institute Experimental
Farm in Kutztown, Pa., to measure the fungi’s effects on pepper
yield.
They inoculated seedlings before transplanting them into field plots.
One treatment group contained only the AM fungus, Glomus
intraradices; another treatment comprised a mixture of three other
types of AM fungi; and a third, uninoculated group served as the
control. Plants were transferred into high-phosphorus-soil field plots
receiving either composted dairy cow manure or conventional
chemical fertilizer.
Results showed that inoculating peppers with AM fungi boosted fruit
yield. The best results were with the fungus mixture, which increased
yields each year by 14 to 23 percent in plots with added compost,
and up to 34 percent one year in plots with chemical fertilizers.
Proper selection of an AM inoculum is essential, according to
Douds, and a mixture of fungi increases the chance of having the
right fungus present for a given plant.
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[ ] August 21, 2015
Past studies have shown that AM fungi benefit plants grown in low-
phosphorus soil, and that high-phosphorus soils make it harder for
the fungi to grow on plant roots. However, this study’s results
suggest that using AM fungi in high-phosphorus soils is a
management option that shouldn’t be ignored.
BOOSTER SEMASA BERBUNGA/BERBUAH -
Mohammad Abdul Rahman
By عبدالرحمن on Wednesday, 30 January 2013 at 11:36 محمد
Boost When
the Time is Right:
Stage-specific Amendments
To get the most out of their plants, gardeners use nutrient additives,
soil amendments and foliar treatments
specifically designed for particular stages in a plant’s life cycle. Of
course there are plenty of choices available, but this author wants
you to know about the high-performance organic options
In order to increase production and optimise efficiency within their
indoor gardens, horticulturists use various stage-specific nutrient
amendments. The most common example of these is blooming and
ripening additives designed specifically to boost a plant’s fruiting or
flowering stage. Organic growers have also become more in tune
with the benefits of stage-specific feeding programs. As our
knowledge of organic supplements expands (along with our
technologies used to extract the vital compounds), more stage-
specific organic supplements are becoming available for the high-
performance organic grower.
Guano
Bat and seabird guano have been used to boost fruiting and flowering
since the beginning of indoor horticulture.
High-phosphorous guano helps trigger flowering hormones within
the plant and contributes to an increase in flower sets. There have
been much advancement in the harvesting and extraction methods
used by guano suppliers that help preserve the powerful elements
that were lost due to outdated methods. One extraction method is
guano tea, a liquid guano formula that is chock full of the beneficial
nutrients and micro-organisms found in the guano. Liquid guano
extracts like this one are more easily absorbed by the plants and give
growers the option to foliar or root feed. Unlike guano directly
amended to the soil or medium, liquid guano also gives gardeners
more control over dosage.
Kelp extracts
As with guano, kelp suppliers have made much advancement in
extracting and preserving the beneficial elements and hormones
found in kelp. Although kelp was once rarely used as a bloom
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[ ] August 21, 2015
booster, some of the kelp formulations available today are
specifically designed to do just that. Kelp extracts specific to bloom
stimulation encourage rapid cell division during flowering and
increase the production of specialised sugars found in fruit or
flowers. It is important to select a kelp formula that is designed
specifically for blooming, or you could end up promoting vigorous
growth during your plant’s ripening stage. Kelp extract, if harvested
at the correct time or in a particular manner, can also contain a
variety of hormones that help trigger flowering and ripening.
Alfalfa extracts
One of the newer organic extracts to hit the indoor horticulture
market is alfalfa extracts. Alfalfa has a great
nitrogen-to-carbon ratio, contains a variety of trace elements and has
been shown to promote larger flowers. Alfalfa contains triacontanol,
a growth hormone that is thought to speed up the rate of
photosynthesis by increasing the amount of CO2 that a plant can
process. Many studies have shown an increase in flower-site
production and overall yield with the use of alfalfa extract.
Protein hydrolysate ( FAA)
Protein hydrolysate is a recent advancement in organic stimulators.
Protein hydrolysate is essentially organic matter (usually soy protein)
broken down into the essential L-animo acids. Amino acids are the
building blocks for the proteins and enzymes that directly influence
the structure and metabolism of plants. Supplementing a protein
hydrolysate during a blooming period will enhance the utilisation of
other nutrients, boost the plant’s immune
system, increase plant respiration and reduce stress. Protein
hydrolysate is a multifaceted additive that increases fruit and flower
production in many different ways. If you are going to try one
organic stimulator, I recommend a protein
hydrolysate formula. Whether growing conventionally or
organically, bloom boosters play an important role in enhancing
yields. New and innovative products, teamed with advancements in
extraction methods, allow organic growers to achieve harvests once
only obtained by conventional methods. As more is learned about the
intricate aspects of plant physiology, new products, methods and
technologies will be created, allowing organic bloom boosters to
even further evolve.
MASALAH DAN PENYELESAIAN DALAM
SISTEM HYDROPONIC FERTIGATION-
Mohammad Abdulrhman
By عبدالرحمن on Wednesday, 23 January 2013 at 15:15 محمد
From time to time, we all strike problems with our hydroponic
systems and plants. If we are lucky, it’s an easily resolved issue that
doesn’t cause too much stress. However, some things can baffle even
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[ ] August 21, 2015
the most experienced grower and that’s when a step-by-step
approach to troubleshooting is required…
Most common problems experienced in hydroponic gardens are
caused by one of four main things: nutrition, the plant’s growing
environment, pests and pathogens and—less frequently encountered
—genetic problems. Even though complete, balanced and well-
formulated nutrient solutions are used in hydroponics, nutrition can
still be a main area of troubleshooting and one that confuses many
inexperienced growers.
Nutrient troubleshooting
Hydroponic systems are reliant on the composition and formulation
of the nutrient solution to supply all the essential elements required
for optimal plant growth and yields. However, nutrient solutions are
complex and their composition changes as mineral ions are extracted
when they flow through the root system. Deficiencies in hydroponic
production are more common than toxicities, as plant uptake of many
elements has the potential to strip out nutrients at a rapid rate,
particularly from recirculating solutions. The most common
deficiency problems in hydroponic crops are potassium in fruiting
plants like tomatoes; iron under certain environmental conditions;
nitrogen in some readily growing, highly vegetative crops; and
calcium in many species, such as lettuce, tomatoes and peppers.
To complicate hydroponic plant nutrition further, deficiencies (as
they occur on different crops) might or might not be the result of an
actual deficiency in the nutrient solution. Potassium can certainly be
stripped from a nutrient solution rapidly as fruit develops and
expands, and because luxury uptake occurs in many crops. However,
iron, calcium and magnesium deficiencies on leaves and fruit occur
even when there is more than a sufficient amount of these elements
in a solution. These induced deficiencies often fool growers into
thinking there is a problem with the formulation of their nutrient
when the cause is often more complex.
Iron
Iron deficiency is common under cool growing conditions, where the
root system might have become saturated or damaged, or where the
pH is running high.
Magnesium
Magnesium deficiency on crops like tomatoes can be induced by
high levels of potassium uptake.
Calcium
Calcium deficiency, which shows as tip burn on lettuce and blossom
end rot on tomatoes and peppers, is a calcium transport problem
within the plant rather than a lack of calcium in the solution. It is
induced by environmental conditions like high humidity, which
restricts transpiration and calcium distribution.
Salt buildup and EC problems
Salt buildup appears as white or off-white crystalline crusts or
residues on the surface of growing media and sometimes on the base
of plant stems, where it can cause salt burn damage. Certain types of
media are more prone to this nutrient problem than others—for
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[ ] August 21, 2015
example, those with porous structures and high rates of water loss
are more prone to salt crusting than others. Expanded clay granules
and similar media often develop a whitish coating on the surface
after a few months use, and this can be common in ebb-and-flow
systems. Media beds covered with plastic film—as in the case of
rockwool slabs—rarely develop these salt deposits on the surface, as
the film prevents excessive moisture loss from the media.
Salt buildup occurs when a media, which has been thoroughly wetted
with nutrient solution containing dissolved salts, loses moisture to
evaporation faster than the minerals are taken up by the plant’s root
system. In this case, the moisture is lost to the atmosphere and the
minerals stay behind, thus increasing the EC in the media and around
the roots. This salt buildup in the root zone can cause damage both
through direct contact with the salt crystals around the delicate plant
stem, particularly in seedlings, and by increasing the osmotic
pressure around the plant roots. Luckily, salt buildup is easily dealt
with once growers recognize the symptoms: white crusting is the
first sign, as is plant growth becoming stunted, dark, hard and
unusually slow. As salt accumulation becomes more severe, the stem
area at the base of the plant and roots can be burnt and die back,
resulting in wilting during the warmer times of day and, later, disease
attack in these areas.
Regular monitoring of the EC of the nutrient solution draining from
the media helps prevent and diagnose salt accumulation problems.
Ideally the EC of the feed solution should not increase as it flows
through the root system. If the EC is increasing as its flows through
the root system and out the base of the growing container, then salt
buildup is likely to occur. However, even plants fed a low EC
solution can develop salt accumulation where the atmosphere is dry
and high rates of water loss from a porous media occur. In this case,
the media will benefit from some leaching from time to time and a
thorough clean between crops (or even replacement in severe cases).
Some growers prefer to leach excess salts from growing media using
plain water; however, this can have negative effects when an actively
growing crop is present, as the sudden drop in osmotic pressure in
the root zone triggers a large influx of moisture into the root cells,
which can result in fruit splitting and soft, weak vegetative growth.
Flushing growing media with either a specifically designed flushing
solution or a nutrient one-third its regular strength is recommended
to remove excess salts from the root zone. Carrying this process out
every few weeks might be required in certain hydroponic systems,
such as shallow flood-and-drain or tray systems in warm climates
with high evapotranspiration rates, and often between crops if media
is to be reused
Algae
Most hydroponic growers come across algae sooner or later. It can
appear as a green, brown, reddish or black, slimy growth that clings
to channels, gullies and pumps or spreads over the surface of damp
media. Long strings of algae are common in nutrient tanks and return
channels, and the speed at which this form of plant life can grow and
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[ ] August 21, 2015
multiply is often impressive. Algae usually have earthy or moldy
smells, and large volumes of decomposing algae in the nutrient can
be responsible for unpleasant odors. Algae is a nuisance to any
grower as it not only looks unsightly, but has the ability to block
drippers, emitter, pumps, return channels and filters. Heavy growth
can even seal off the surface of growing substrates, robbing the roots
of oxygen.
The problem with algae—apart from the appearance and smell
problems it can create—is not so much that it competes with plant
roots for nutrients, but that it sucks up dissolved oxygen from the
system it blooms, dies and decomposes. This increases the biological
oxygen demand (BOD) on the system and causes root suffocation
from a lack of oxygen. Decomposing algae might also release toxins
as it breaks down and provides a food source for plant pathogenic
fungi, which might then multiply to high levels in the system. Algae
directly attached to plant root systems can suffocate the roots,
making the plants prone to attack by opportunist pathogens like
pythium.
Control of algae, once established in a hydroponic system, can be
difficult. Still, most growers tolerate small amounts of algae in their
systems, provided it does not become excessive. A regular scrub
between crops will often remove stubborn algae and is often the only
control used by commercial growers. Some growers do add
algaecide products into the nutrient to kill off algae and there are a
number of these products on the market. However, since any product
that kills algae (a form of plant life) can also damage young or
sensitive root systems, care must be taken with the dose. Also, algae
will regrow very quickly after applications of most algaecide
products, thus requiring regular applications to maintain good
control.
Root death
The major causes of root death in hydroponics are suffocation,
starvation, pathogens, chemical damage, temperature and EC/pH
problems. In hydroponics, suffocation is probably the leading cause
of root death and reduced growth rates. Often, any pathogens present
won’t attack a healthy root system until it is damaged or weakened
by adverse conditions (such as stagnation or suffocation in the root
zone). A lack of oxygen can be caused by flooding or ponding of the
nutrient solution, decomposing organic matter in the solution, slow
flow rates and too many plants robbing oxygen from the root zone,
which is accelerated as conditions become warmer. A lack of oxygen
reduces the permeability of roots to water, and toxins will
accumulate as the root cells die. Some plants, such as tomatoes, will
attempt to adapt to the lack of oxygen by producing adventitious
roots on the lower stem and swelling at the stem base.
Starvation
A lack of nutrients will affect the root system, just as it does the top
of the plant; however, the symptoms are more difficult to observe. A
phosphate deficiency will cause the roots to become brown with a
reduced number of lateral branches. A lack of calcium will induce a
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[ ] August 21, 2015
thin, poorly developed brown root system. Manganese deficiency
will cause a small root system that’s much shorter and finer than
usual, with some browning of the root tips. Copper deficiency results
in severe underdevelopment of the root zone. Boron deficiency
causes the root tips to become jelly-like in appearance.
EC and pH
An electrical conductivity (EC) level that is too high for the crop
being grown will result in severe stunting of the root system. If the
EC reaches extreme levels, water will be lost from the root cells back
into the nutrient solution to the point where root death will occur.
This is more common in crops that prefer a lower EC level, such as
lettuce.
Likewise, pH levels that are too high or low can induce root damage
and nutrient uptake problems. (Still, the pH range that plants can
tolerate without any negative effects is fairly large.) It has been
found that the appearance of the root system differs in hydroponic
plants that have been grown at different pH levels. Plants grown at a
pH of 7.5 and above have a shorter, coarser root system than those
grown at a pH of 5.5. Higher pH levels reduce the availability of
certain elements in solution, mostly iron and manganese, and could
induce deficiency symptoms.
Root problems
Root diseases are a major concern for hydroponic growers. This is
particularly true of growers who use NFT and other recirculating
systems that could quickly transport pathogens to a large number of
plants. Some pathogens that can attack roots in hydroponic systems
have symptoms that make them easy to identify (with some practice).
However, others might not have any symptoms at all. One aspect
these pathogens all have in common is their ability to reduce plant
growth and yield. The most common pathogens that effect roots in
hydroponic production are pythium, phytophthora, fusarium,
olpidium, plasmopara, didymella and verticillium. Others have also
been reported to cause crop losses; in fact, about 20 fungal, four viral
and two bacterial pathogens exist that are commonly associated with
root diseases in hydroponic vegetable crops. Root pathogens can
infect hydroponic crops from a number of sources, including air,
water, media, insects, infected plant material, seeds and dust.
Airborne root pathogens are rare, but have been known to occur. A
more common source of infection is soil, which hosts a huge number
of inoculum. Soil can enter a hydroponics system on shoes, as dust in
the air, in media, on equipment or in water (particularly from
exposed sources, such as reservoirs, rivers and streams). Insects,
such as shore flies and fungus gnats, can also carry pathogens.
Since many root problems and odd symptoms are caused by
pathogens, and such attacks are often induced by stressed plants,
cultivating a healthy crop is always a grower’s first line of defense.
Ensuring adequate oxygen is present in the root zone throughout the
hydroponic system is essential. Sometimes environmental or cultural
problems exist that stress the plants without the grower’s knowledge.
Therefore, observing the root zone on a regular basis is vitally
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[ ] August 21, 2015
important. In media-based systems, a grower who notices a plant
showing signs of wilt or discoloration should pull it out and examine
the root system. Once any plant has been identified as potentially
having a root disease, it should be removed from the cropping area
and destroyed. Proper sanitation and hygiene in hydroponic systems
is also important for pathogen control. Root pathogens can carry over
from one crop to the next, so many media or substrate that contained
an infected plant should be discarded. In areas where there are high
populations of root disease pathogens, commercial growers need to
consider some form of control, such as treating the water supply with
UV light, H2O2 or ozone.
Fruiting and flowering problems
Fruiting crop problems in hydroponics can range from a simple lack
of fruit development to more complex physiological disorders like
blossom end rot. Many growers have experienced fruit with skin
disorders, such as uneven coloration, blotching, crazing, streaking,
silvering and other unidentified spots. Fruit splitting can be common
in crops like tomatoes. Bell peppers and cucumber can become
grossly misshapen. These disorders are largely physiological,
environmental and cultural.
Flower and fruitlet drop
Most common hydroponic crops will flower when they have reached
their appropriate point in development. One frequent problem is
flower drop. There are many potential causes of flower and fruitlet
drop in hydroponic crops; some are internal and caused by plant
stress, and some are environmental. In many crops, flower drop in
induced by high air temperatures. However the point at which this
thermal stress occurs varies for each crop and cultivar. Low light
levels that limit the growth of the whole plant can also induce drop,
particularly where low light is combined with high temperatures.
Although not as common in hydroponic crops as those grown in soil,
mineral deficiencies, such as low levels of nitrogen or phosphorus in
the nutrient solution, can slow flower and fruit development and
cause drop. Flower drop can also be caused by water stress (either a
lack of irrigation or high EC levels).
With the development of high-yielding cultivars, another major
cause of flower and fruitlet drop has become heavy fruit load or
excessive vegetative growth. Young, newly developed leaves
compete for assimilates with the flowers and fruitlets already on the
plant. If assimilates are transported to these new leaves at the
expense of the flowers, drop can occur. This is more common in
situations where assimilate production is limited due to low light or
other reasons. Lowering plant density and using CO2 and suitable
cultivars less prone to drop both assist growers in preventing these
types of problems (which often occur in winter). The presence of a
heavy fruit load developing on the plant has the same effect; new
flowers and fruitlets can be sacrificed in favor of the rapidly
developing, larger fruit already present. In certain crops, a lack of
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pollination could be the cause of flower and, more commonly,
fruitlet drop.
TIPS2 PERTANIAN....adaptasi dari Fuad fertgasi
oleh Mohammad abdul Rahman
By عبدالرحمن on Saturday, 5 January 2013 at 06:55 محمد
tip untk penanam melon... rugi x baca..
Nah !.. satu lagi maklumat untuk peminat MELON fertigasi.. Saya
sarankan " Penanam melon fertigasi... jangan tanam melon untuk
keluarkan sebiji sepokok lagi.. ok!..) Bukannya apa.. nak tambah
keuntungan.. Sebiji besar berat > 2.0 kg dan cantik masih tak dapat
juala macam harga di Jepun. Orang jepun menilai dari sudut
berlainan sebab itu sangat pentingkan kualiti dan sanggup bayar
sehingga ratusan ringgit sebiji.. Mereka hargai kecantikan bentuk
dan netting (deria lihat), mereka hargai keharuman dari aroma yang
dikeluarkan (deria bau), mereka hargai keenakan rasanya (deria
rasa). Pasaran di Malaysia tak sampai tahap tu... cukup berat, manis,
bentuk ok, netting lebih kurang ok.. dah!.. HABIT POKOK MELON
FERTIGASI - Jangka hayat sekitar 70 - 85 hari di ladang. Mula
berbunga 25 - 30 hari di ladang. Bunga jantan keluar dulu... bunga
betina 2 - 3 hari lewat. TIP PANDUAN: 1. Kepekatan baja sentiasa
bertambah setiap minggu dari 1.5 hingga lebih 3.0 mS/cm. 2. Umur
seminggu, getu pucuk utama - galakkan cabang dan banyak daun. 3.
Umur 20 - 25 H di ladang kepekatan lebih 2.0 mS/cm. Lebih baik
tambah Ca. 4. Umur 20 - 25 H sapu pangkal batang dengan racun
kulat cth: antracol dll - elak gummy stem 5. Umur 20 - 25 H boleh
juga cucuk pangkal batang dengan lidi atau pencungkil gigi... 6.
Kawin bunga seawal mungkin sebaik sahaja bunga betina keluar ( 26
- 30 H) diladang. Lakukan berturut-turut dan buat kepada semua
bunga betina yag keluar. Waktunya 7.30 - 11.00 pagi je.. 7. Umur 38
- 45 H buat pemilihan buah yang sama besar sahaja. Tinggalkan 2 - 4
biji sepokok. Buah yang lain buang. Jumlah buah yang dikekalkan
bergantung kepada bilangan daun subur & sihat. 20 helai utk 1 biji,
40 helai utk 2 biji, 60 helai untuk 3 biji dst.. 8. Nak besarkan buah...
boleh celup dengan GA (giberillic acid). 9. Kawin awal, buah ada
peluang untuk membesar lebih lama (30 - 60H) 10. Ingat !.. daun
subur, sihat .. adalah kilang untuk buat makanan pokok tersebut.
Lebih banyak daun, mampu besarkan buah dan tampung keperluan
pembesaran buah. 11. 7- 10 H sebelum pungut hasil pekatkan baja
lebih 3.0 mS/cm dengan Hi-K untuk tambah kemanisan CUBA
ELAKKAN POTONG PUCUK UTAMA KECUALI 10 HARI
TERAKHIR... Pucuk sulur patut buang. Jika pucuk utama dibuang,
pokok kurang daya serapan baja/air.
TIP TAMBAH BERAT BUAH (CILI & TERUNG) - 1 - 2 jam
sebelum petik hasil cili atau terung, lakukan siraman terlebih
dahulu. Kalau kaedah fertigasi - titiskan air baja lebih kurang
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10 - 15 minit pada 7.30 pagi. Petik buah jam 9.00 pagi.
InsyaAllah berat buah bertambah ( kadang capai 20 - 30%)
berbanding tidak berbuat demikian. terung pun begitu juga...
INI BUKAN TIPU BERAT TAPI TAMBAH
BERAT..Cubalah !...
TIP CILI BERTERUSAN KELUAR PUCUK BARU - Habit
pokok cili berbunga dan berbuah di cabang. Cabang akan
terbentuk bila ada pucuk baru keluar. Setelah beberapa bulan
pertumbuhan kadangkala pokok cili seolah-olah berhenti
membesar (tak de pucuk baru). Ini boleh diatasi dengan
memberikan air dan nitrogen yang banyak daripada kebiasaan
yang diterima. Oleh itu penanam boleh memberi tambahan baja
N (seperti Urea atau SA atau Amm nitrat) setiap 7 - 10 hari
kepada pokok yang telah berbuah atau berumur lebih 3 bulan di
ladang. Bagi pengamal fertigasi tambah Urea atau Amm. nirat
0.5 - 1.0 kg dalam tangki 600G dan titiskan 10 - 15 minit sebelah
pagi ok... Cubalah...
COMPOST TEA ( AACT ) By Mohammad Abdul
Rahman
By عبدالرحمن on Saturday, 20 August 2011 at 13:20 محمد
Compost tea di gunakan untuk mewujudkan hidupan microbes pada
daun dan zone akar dalam media, dan memebri nutrients yang terlaru
pada daun dan akar.
Compost tea adalah cairan yang di keluarkan dari bahan ccompost
yang mengandungi bacteria, fungus, protoazoa dan nematodes dan
element baja untuk penyuburan dan ketahan penyakit pokok.
Compost tea tiada sama dengan komersil BM dari segi kandungan
bacteria dan fungus, dimana Activated Aerated Compost Tea
( AACT) mengandungi pelbagai bacteria dan fungus yang terhasil
dari pengoposan dan juga dari tahi cacing yang mengandungi
pelbagai enzymes dan hormones
Antara kebaikan AACT adalah :
meningkatkan pertumbuhan pokok hasil dari tambahan baja daun
dan akar dan pengawalan microbes terhadap microorganism perosak
yang menyebabkan penyakit pokok.
Perkembangn pokok meningkat bila serapan dengan activity
microbes pada akar memudahkan serapan dari baja kompleks ke baja
yng mudah di serap, dan ini menjimatkan penggunaan baja, baja juga
tidak mudak tersejat atau leaching kalau hujan atau siraman berlebih
Menurunkan kadar kerosakan tanah/media hasil penggunaan racun
dan baja kimia, serta menstabilkan pH dan mengurangkan stress
bilamana keadaan amat kering.
Meningkatkan kadar serapan nutrients dengan meninggikan serapan
pada daun kerana dengan adanya microbes, stomata akan membuka
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lebihlama berbanding ketiadaan microbes dan mengawal peruapan
air dari daun.
Mengurangkan kehilangan air dari media dan mengekalkan
kelembapan media , jadi kehilangan air di minimisekan.
Cara2 Membuat Compost Tea ( AACT) untuk 20 lit
a) Bacteria Dominant AACT
½ lit baja compost ( compost buat sendiri atau buleh beli kat kedai)
½ lit tahi tanah tahi cacing dari tempat tak tercemar spt hutan atau
belukar
1 cawan molasses atau gula merah dicair pekat
½ cawan baja ikan atau fishmeal atau serbuk ikan
¼ cawan habuk kuari ( buleh ayak dari quarry dust, buleh bubuh
juga serbuk kulit kerang atau kulit telur)
sediakan karung di buat dari kain jarang spt kain langsir atau panty
hose wanita bersaiz untuk muat 1.5 lit bahan. Isi karung dengan
bahan compost, habuk kuari dan baja ikan.
gantung karung 6-8 inci dari dasar tong 20 lit, isi air bersih tanpa
klorin ( kalu guna air paip, bagi bubble dulu dalam sehari atau biar
terdedah dua hari supaya klorin meruapa), air telah atau hujan amat
baik
masukan gula merah dan kacau kejap. Pasang kan 2 biji batu angin
akuarium pam angin, biar batu didasar tong……….jalankan pam
selama 24-36 jam……..siap
Bila di gunakan ( dalam masa 3 jam selepas pam di matikan ) gunkan
kadar 1:20 untuk foliar spray dan 1:30 untuk siraman media. Semasa
menggunakan buleh campur bahan lain spt FAA, FPJ , FFJ dengan
kadar ½ dari AACT, buleh juga bubuh ½ botol yakult dan juga air
peraman basuh beras. kalu ada humic asid buleh tambah 1 sudu
makan, kalu tak ada humic tak mengapa sebab dalam kompos
memang dah ada humic. AACT ni amat sesuai untuk semburan
foiliar untuk melawan penyakit daun
b) 50:50 bacteria –fungi AACT
untuk ini kita banyakna sikit source untuk fungi terutama
trichoderma fungus amat baik untuk melawan penyakit akar.
buleh gunakan sedikit tanah dari pokok buluh, atau kulapuk putih
yang terhasil dari bungkah cendawan.
BUleh gunakan juga dedak halus atau dedak ayam halus di basah
lembab dengan air dan di biarkan sehingga Nampak kulapuk, campur
dalam bahan compost atau air sebanyak ½ cawan. AACT ni amat
sesuai untuk siraman pada akar denagn kadar 1: 30, buleh campur
bahan lain juga spt AACT dia atas
SOP PENGGUNAAN PLANTBAC DAN
CHITOSAN
By Faridwajdi Sakimin on Friday, 7 October 2011 at 15:04
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[ ] August 21, 2015
PROGRAM MENGHASILKAN TANAMAN SAYURAN YANG
SIHAT DAN MENINGKATKAN HASIL PENGELUARAN
TANAMAN
(Plantbac dan Chitosan)
Rawatan biji benih:
-Bagi biji benih yang ditanam di dalam tray semaian,langkah
rawatan seperti dibawah:
a)Setelah biji benih di letakkan di atas tanah peatmoss ,lakukan
semburan larutan
chitosan keatas biji benih tersebut(5ml chitosan/ 1 liter air).
b)Kemudian isikan peatmoss menutupi biji benih tadi sehingga
memenuhi lubang tray
semaian tersebut
c)Kemudian lakukan semburan sekali lagi dengan larutan chitosan(5
ml chitosan/1 liter
air) ke atas peatmoss sehingga keseluruhan peatmoss di dalam tray
lembab
Contohnya biji benih cili,bendi,terung,timun dsbnya)
d)Hari kedua selepas tanam biji benih,lakukan semburan cecair
Plantbac(10gm
Plantbac/1 liter air) ke atas peatmoss sehingga keseluruhan
peatmoss lembab.
e)Hari berikutnya lakukan semburan dgn air kosong sahaja bagi
tujuan mengekalkan
kelembapan peatmoss
Sekiranya biji benih direndam dlm ceair chitosan dgn dosage
5ml/1liter air selama 20~30minit sebelum menanam biji benih ke
dalam tray semaian adalah digalakkan sebelum langkah (a)
Rawatan anak benih:
a)Semburan air kosong perlu dilakukan setiap hari daripada hari ke 3
hingga ke 10 ditray
semaian
b)Pada hari ke 11,lakukan semburan cecair chitosan (5ml
chitosan/1liter air) ke atas anak
benih dan peatmoss di tray semaian
c)Pada hari ke 12 hingga hari ke 19 ,lakukan semburan air kosong
sahaja ke atas anak
benih dan peatmoss
d) Pada hari ke 20,lakukan lagi semburan cecair chitosan (5ml
chitosan/1liter air) ke atas
anak benih dan peatmoss di tray semaian
e)Pada hari ke 21 hingga hari ke 25 ,lakukan semburan air kosong
sahaja ke atas anak
benih dan peatmoss
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f)Pada hari ke 26,pindahkan anak benih ke polibeg(Sebelum
pindahkan anak benih
tersebut ke polibeg,lakukan sekali lagi semburan cecair
chitosan(5ml chitosan/1 liter
air) ke atas anak benih dan peatmoss di dalam tray
***Untuk rawatan yang lagi baik,campurkan 5gm Plantbac dan
chitosan(5-10ml/liter air)semasa rawatan biji benih dan semasa
peringkat semaian tu.
Rawatan tanah atau media di dalam polibeg:
a)Dalam tempoh 4 atau 5 hari sebelum proses tanam anak benih ke
tanah atau media
polibeg,tanah atau media tersebut mestilah dirawat dgn cecair
Plantbac(3gm Plantbac/1
liter air pencairan)
b)Siraman cecair Plantbac tadi boleh dilakukan secara drip atau
semburan ataupun
manual tuang ke atas tanah iaitu tempat dimana anak benih akan
ditanam
c)Lakukan semula ,penggunaan cecair Plantbac ke atas tanah atau
media semasa anak
pkk berumur 2 minggu di tanah atau media
d)Penggunaan seterusnya bergantung kpd pengusaha tanaman
tersebut,nak lagi baik
surelah kena guna lebih lagi,ikut budget masing2
Rawatan anak pokok dalam pembesaran dan penghasilan hasil:
a)Apabila anak pkk sudah di tanam di tanah atau
media,penyemburan cecair chitosan
perlulah dilakukan pada hari ke 4 anak pokok selepas ditanam
b)Penyemburan cecair chitosan perlulah dilakukan sekali setiap
minggu ,utk memberikan
tahap pencegahan penyakit dan penghasilan hasil yang
tinggi(pencairan 5~10ml
chitosan/1 liter air).Kalau guna 10ml/liter atau 20ml/liter lagi baik
c)Cecair chitosan dgn dosage 5ml/1liter air boleh didripkan atau
disiram pada tanah atau media
untuk menggalakkan lagi pembentukan cabang2 baru pkk
tersebut.Dgn penggunaan Plantbac
utk tanah atau media akan mepercepatkan uptake nutrient melalui
akar pokok
###PENGGUNAAN CAMPURAN PLANTBAC DAN GTR
CHITOSAN SECARA SEMBURAN KE POKOK DAN DRIP
ATAU SIRAMAN KE TANAH ATAU MEDIA ADALAH
MEMBERIKAN KESAN PENCEGAHAN YANG LEBIH BAIK
Kebaikan rawatan di atas:
Plantbac:
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a)Memberikan perlindungan kpd zon akar tanaman daripada
penyakit yang berpunca
daripada bakteria jahat dan kulat merbahaya
b)Jika disiram di tanah,akan menguraikan kandungan zat mineral
dalam tanah dimana
akan menambahkan uptake zat tanah melalui akar tanaman
c)Memperbaiki sistem pengudaraan tanah dan menambahkan
kesuburan tanah melalui
tindakan bakteria baik yg terkandung dalam Plantbac
Chitosan:
a)Mempercepatkan pencambahan biji benih
b)Menambahkan sistem imuniti tanaman
c)Bertindak sebagai pertahanan daripada serangan serangga perosak
d)Meningkatkan tumbesaran tanaman dan menyihatkan tanaman
e)Meningkatkan pegeluaran hasil tanaman dan kualiti hasil tanaman
Kesimpulan:
Dengan perawatan Plantbac,akan mengekalkan kesuburan tanaman
dan mencegah daripada penyakit yg berpunca daripada tanah
Dengan penyemburan chitosan,dapat menambahkan imuniti tanaman
dan meningkatkan hasil tanaman
Calcium: Masalah Pembajaan dan Pengagihan
By عبدالرحمن on Friday, 27 January 2012 at 19:54 محمد
Calcium: Masalah Pembajaan dan Pengagihan
by Mohammad Abdul Rahman
27 Jan 2012 - PNSB
Kita sebagai pekebun berkonsepkan fertigasi menganggap bahawa
air baja yang sesuai dan seimbang dengan kadar bahan2 nutrients
akan menganggap bahawa pokok kita tumbuh subur tanpa
menunjukan sebarang kekurangan nutrients, amat baik sekali jika
andaian kita itu benar, tapi sesetengah unsur akan menunjukan
kekurangan juga walaupun pokok di beri pembajaan yang
mencukupi. Salah satu bahan unsur yang menjadi penyebab utama
ketidaksuburan pokok dan menjejaskan kualiti buah adalah Kalsium
( calcium), berlakunya ‘tip burnt’ dan rapuh pada pucuk, BER pada
buah dan juga rasa pahit terutama timun.
Kebanyakan kita tidak dapat memahami atau menilai keadaan pucuk
merapuh atau ‘dieback’ atau terbakar berwarna perang emas
berpunca dari kekurangan calcium kerana biasanya air baja kita
sudah ada calcium yang berlebih. Kadang2 kita menganggap bahawa
berlakunya keadaan pada pucuk adalah akibat serangga, panas
melampau atau pun keadaan sekitar amat kering.
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Kebakaran atau tip burnt berlaku pada pucuk muda yang baharu
membentuk daun, tisu pucuk yang akan menampakan lecur berair
berwarna perang emas dan menjadi kehitaman dan mereput jika amat
serius. Keadaan lecur di sebabkan kebocoran pada sel daun dan
mengeluarkan cecair sap dan mengundang penyakit pathogen untuk
berkembang. Kadang2 kita juga terkeliru denagn kekurangan boron,
yang mana kelihatan agak sama.
Blossom end rot atau BER yang kerap berlaku pada buah cili dan
tomato yang seakan penyakit antraknos berpunca kurangnya calcium
dalam pokok serta buah, sel buah pecah dan mengeluarkan cecair di
sebabkan kekuatan dan ketahanan sel amat kurang, buah melecur
mulanya dan lekuk kedalam berwarna hitam dan kering , tangkai
buah tetap hijau, selalunya terjadi pada bahagian tengah ke hujung
buah. Manakala antraknos buah lecur lembik berair dan tangkai serta
kelopak kekuningan, di sebabkan oleh fungus bacterial.
Calcium terbentuk dan di gunakan oleh sel daun untuk perteguhkan
dan menstabilkan lapisan sel dan bertindak sebagai agen semen atau
gam untuk menghubungkan antara sel2 daun di kenali sebagai
calcium pectate, kekurangan calcium menjadikan penghubung gam
lemah dan tidak stabil dan sel berkecai...terjadilah BER atau tip
burnt.
Calcium adalah immobile atau tidak dapat di pindahkan dari satu
bahagian ke bahagian yang di perlukan seperti pucuk baru, dan perlu
di beri pembajaan Ca berterusan untuk pertumbuhan. Konsentarasi
calcium pada daun tua adalah tinggi berbanding pucuk muda, jadi
simtom amat ketara pada pucuk dahulu.
Calcium memainkan peranan untuk mengaktifkan enzimes,
mengimbangi aliran air dalam sel dan amat perlu untuk
perkembangan dan pembentukan sel baru dan tisu pembesaran.
Bertindak sebagai penampan atau buffer bila berlakunya kelebihan
unsur nutrient lain pada zone akar dan menjadikan salah satu
komponen dalam akar sebagai penyaring bahan berlebihan lain.
Simtom Tip burnt atau BER berpunca dari masalah pengagihan
pengangkutan calcium dalam pokok. Dalam pokok terdapat 2 jenis
tisu pengangkut, xylem dan phloem bertindak sebagai sistem
sirkulasi membekalkan mineral, carbohidrat, protein pada
keseluruhan pokok untuk pertumbuhan pembesaran.
Saluran xylem mengangkut air dan garam nutrient terlarut dari akar
ke atas dan di agihkan pada daun2. Kehilangan air dari daun semasa
proses perspiration atau perkumuhan akan membentuk hisapan dan
air dari saluran2 xylem yang mengandungi unsur nutrient termasuk
calcium akan di bawa kedaun untuk proses fotosintesis.
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[ ] August 21, 2015
Apa2 faktor yang membuatkan kehilangan air dari daun ( aliran
angkutan xylem) akan mempengaruhi edaran calcium dalam pokok
bila mana air pembawa ion calcium mengalir ke daun untuk
menggantikan air yang hilang. Calcium merupakan immobile akan
mengalir secara perlahan jika transpiration amat kurang berlaku pada
buah dan juga pucuk baru yang kecil berbanding dengan daun besar
yang tua. Hal sedemikian akan menampakan dengan mudah simtom
kekurangan Ca yang senang berlaku pada buah dan pucuk. Dalam
keadaan berangin dan penyejukan serta kelembapan di bawah 90%,
daun amat aktif transpiration dan xylem menarik air dan ion calcium
denagn baik untuk di bawa pada daun dan di simpan.
Untuk mengelakan buah dari terjadi BER, pembajaan Calcium amat
di titik beratkan semasa pembentukan buah yang masih hijau sebagai
langkah pertama pengawalan, kejadian BER dapat di hindarkan
dengan menggunakan foliar pada buah hijau dan daun sekeliling
serta pucuk yang menampakan simtom kekurangan menggunakan
larutan baja CaNO3 dengan kadar 0.2% atau 2.0gm/lit air. Memberi
foliar pada daun saja dan tidak pada buah tak memberi kesan pada
rawatan BER kerana Ca tak buleh berpindah kepada buah dari daun,
jadi direct spray pada buah amat perlu.
Dalam sistem hidroponik fertigasi, unsur baja calcium di dapati dari
calcium nitrate (CaNO3) dan kuantitinya amat mencukupi mengikut
kehendak pokok. Jika terjadi kekurangan calcium pada pokok ianya
bukan di sebabkan kurangnay Ca dalam baja, tapi di pengaruhi oleh
faktor lain yang menghalang atau menyekat pengambilan Ca oleh
akar dan juga penghantaran dalam pokok.
Pengambilan atau serapan Ca oleh pokok berkurangan di sebabkan
berlakunya persaingan serapan oleh konsentrasi cations yang tinggi
dari potssium (kalium), magnesium atau ammonium yang
terkandung dalam air baja. Oleh kerana calcium bergerak dalam tisu
xylem, serapanya juga terhalang oleh kepanasan atau kesejukan
melampau dari zone akar dan juga bila keadaan media yang di
pengaruhi oleh konsentrasi garam yang tinggi, ( salt built up dan ec
baja tinggi) dan juga di sebabkan keadaan sekitaran yang amat
lembab terutama musim hujan.
Menggunakan air baja yang EC nya tinggi akan mengurangkan
serapan air dan Ca oleh akar pokok, berbeza dengan N dan K dimana
konsentarsinya pada daun akan tinggi jika EC tinggi. Merendahkan
sedikit EC air baja akan meningkatkan serapan air baja oleh akar dan
secara tak langsung bahan nutrient lain termasuk Ca akan di serap
dengan banyak dan baik untuk di agihkan pada tisu2 pembesaran
pokok.
Pemberian air baja pada ec rendah pada waktu malam meningkatkan
serapan Ca kerana xylem sap dapat membawa Ca kepada tisu2 yang
kurang aktif transpiration nya seperti kucupan pucuk dan juga buah
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dan putik buah baru. Kajian umum mendapati kebanyakan calcium
di bekalkan pada daun dan buahan amat banyak pada waktu malam
berbanding siang hari. Jadi amat berkesan jika di beri injeksi air baja
sekali atau dua pada waktu malam sekitar 9.00-10.00 pm. atau 2.00-
3.00am.
Untuk menghindarkan berlakunya tip burnt dan juga BER,
pembajaan Ca hendaklah di beri secukupnya dan berterusan,
melaraskan EC (2.4-2.5) dan pH ( 5.8-6.2) dengan betul dan tidak
tinggi , memberi baja waktu malam, mengurangkan kelembapan
melampau ( sistem RPH elak hujan) dan mengurangkan pokok dari
stress air ( maintain kelembapan 30-40% min). Pembajaan dengan
biofertilizer yang mengandungi amino acid atau FAA amat
membantu membuka calcium ion channel dalam akar dan
meninggikan serapan calcium beribu kali ganda berbanding dengan
cara osmosis biasa.
PLANT GROW PROMOTING RHIZOBACTERIA ( PGPR ) -
Mohamad Abdul Rahman
By عبدالرحمن on Tuesday, 4 December 2012 at 10:11 محمد
MEMBUAT PGPR (PLANT GROW PROMOTING
RHIZOBACTERIA)
PGPR atau Plant Growth Promoting Rhizobakteri adalah sejenis
bacteria yang hidup di sekitar zone akar tanaman. Bacteria ini
hidupnya secara berkoloni menyelaputi akar tanaman dan memberi
kebaikan dari microbes. Bacteria atau microbes ini memberi
kebaikan untuk proses fisiologi tanaman dan pertumbuhannya.
Fungsi PGPR bagi tanaman mampu mempercepatkan pertumbuhan
dan fisiologi akar serta mampu mengurangi penyakit atau kerosakan
oleh serangga. Selain itu PGPR juga meningkatkan daya serapan
unsur baja seperti phosphate, potash, sulfer, Fe dan juga Cu. PGPR
juga boleh menjanakan hormon tanaman, menambahkan microbes
spt bacteria dan fungus yang baik dan mengawal pathogen dan
penyakit tumbuhan.
Cara membuat PGPR :-
BAHAN:
1. 100 gm akar buloh
2. 200 gm gula pasir,
3. 200gm gula merah
4. 200 gm belacan
5. 1 kg dedak halus ( boleh guna dedak ayam serbuk juga jika
tak ada dedak padi )
6. 10 lit air
7. 1 sudu makan bahan perisa “ajinomoto”/MSG, kandungan
monosodium glutamate sebagai hormon perangsang
pertumbuhan dan mempercepat kan penghasilan giberellin.
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CARA MEMBUAT:
1. Rendam akar buloh dalam air bersih 1 lit tanpa klorin 2-4
hari
2. Rebus bahan no2 – no 6 sampai mendidih selama 20 minit
dalam air 10 lit
3. Setelah sejuk masukkan semua bahan kedalam tong bertutup
( tong air 20 lit) dan tutup rapat
4. Buka dan goncang2 sehari sekali
5. Satelah 15 hari PGPR siap digunakan
CARA MENGGUNAKAN:
1. Tapis PGPR
2. Campurkan ( 1:15 ) 1 lit PGPR ke dalam air 15 lit ( 1 tong
racun )
3. Spray atau siram pada batas tanah atau media polybag 1-3
hari sebelum pindah tanam anak pokok.
4. Ulangi spray atau siram hujan setiap 15-20 hari sekali
Bahan yang tertinggal dalam tapisan masih boleh di recycle
denagn menambahkan air dan sedikit gula merah untuk
kegunaan kedua kalinya.
Semoga tuan2 mendapat manafaat dan penghasilan tanaman yang
baik
UNSUR BAJA FOLIAR- Mohammad abdul rahman
By عبدالرحمن on Wednesday, 28 November 2012 at 23:59 محمد
Foliar Nutrition
Foliar Nutrition of Plants
It has been known for many years that plants are able to absorb
essential elements through their leaves. The absorption takes place
through the stomata of the leaves and also through the epidermis.
Movement of elements is usually faster through the stomata, but the
total absorption may be as great through the epidermis. Plants are
also able to absorb nutrients through their bark.
The following elements have been successfully use to supply
nutrients for plant growth by apply them as foliar sprays to the
leaves:
Primary Nutrients : Nitrogen ,Phosphorus, Potassium
Secondary Nutrients : Magnesium, Calcium, Sulfur
Micronutrients : Iron, Zinc, Boron, Copper, Molybdenum ,
Manganese, Chlorine
One difficulty in using foliar sprays to supply essential elements to
crops is that translocation of the applied element may not be rapid
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enough for increasing crop yields. With some plants this problem is
more difficult than with others. For example, the relative mobility of
essential nutrients in bean plants when applied as a foliar spray in
order of decreasing mobility, was as follows:
Mobile : Potassium, Phosphorus, Chlorine, Nitrogen
Partially Mobile: Zinc, Copper, Manganese, Molybdenum,
Magnesium
Immobile : Boron, Calcium, Sulfur, Iron
Nitrogen fertilizer compounds have been used for several years as
foliar sprays. Sodium nitrate, ammonium sulfate, potassium nitrate,
and urea have all been used experimentally, but only urea gives
satisfactory results. The other fertilizers cause the burning of leaves,
due partly to the high osmotic concentration of the spray solution.
Urea has been successfully sprayed on apple trees, tomatoes,
celery, lima beans, potatoes, cantaloupes, cucumbers, and sugar
cane. Amounts up to 15 pounds of urea per acre at one spraying
have been used with beneficial results on apple trees. Higher
concentrations burn the leaves. The usual concentration for apple
trees is five pounds of urea per 100 gallons of water. This is
commonly mixed and applied with the regular spray materials at
weekly intervals early in the growing season.
The application of urea fertilizer to leaves of plants has given
response approximately equal to that of fertilizer applied to the soil.
The uptake of urea is faster when it is sprayed on the leaves, but it is
cheaper to apply it to the soil.
Phosphorus is capable of being utilized by the plant when it is
sprayed on the leaves. Although the practice is not common, there
are many good reasons for predicting that there may be an increase
in the foliar application of phosphorus.
One reason is that in most soils only a small percentage of
phosphorus fertilizers is recovered by the plant (averaging about 20
percent for the first year); whereas, when phosphorus is sprayed on
the leaves, nearly all of it is absorbed. In one experiment,
approximately three pounds of P2O5 sprayed on tomato leaves gave
a greater early growth than did 135 pounds of P2O5 applied to the
soil. The yield of tomatoes, however, was 12 percent greater when
the 135 pounds of P2O5 was sprayed on the leaves.
Potassium applications as foliar sprays have been made, using
potassium sulfate fertilizer. Some leaf injury resulted, and the
conclusion was reached that soil applications are far more
satisfactory.
Magnesium is now commonly applied to plant foliage as solutions
of magnesium sulfate (Epsom salts). One reason for the popularity
of the practice is that soil applications of magnesium commonly take
three years to correct magnesium-deficiency symptoms of such
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[ ] August 21, 2015
perennials as apple trees, whereas foliar sprays are effective within a
few days after application.
A foliar application of a two per cent solution of MgSO4 to
tomatoes, oranges, and apples has relieved magnesium deficiency
and has increased crop yields.
Calcium is seldom applied as a foliar spray because it can be
efficiently applied to the soil. If CaCO3 is too slow in reaction, then
CaO or Ca(OH)2 can be applied to the soil. CaCl2 is primary method
of applying Ca to foliage.
Sulfur sprayed on leaves is readily absorbed by the plants. This
fact was demonstrated, however, in connection with the study of the
influence of certain sulfur sprays when used as a fungicide.
Although there have been no reports of a sulfur deficiency being
relieved by sulfur sprays, the practice may become established
because it is physiologically sound.
Iron has been sprayed on foliage since about 1916 to relieve
chlorosis. The first of such research work was carried out with
chlorotic pineapples growing on highly alkaline soils in Hawaii.
Periodic sprays of five percent ferrous sulfate are now common
practice on Hawaiian pineapple plantations. The biggest obstacle to
this practice is the fact that, even though the iron moves readily into
the leaves, it is translocated very slowly. As a result, after spraying
with ferrous sulfate, chlorotic spots may still be in evidence in places
which did not receive some of the iron spray. Iron chelates have also
been successfully used as a spray.
On alkaline soils where iron chlorosis is common, applications of
iron compounds to the soil have not been very successful because the
iron is soon rendered insoluble.
The leaves of chlorotic grain sorghum on calcareous soil in Tulare
County, California, were sprayed with 40 gallons per acre of three
percent ferrous sulfate solution about one week before heading, at a
cost for materials of 50 cents per acre. The yield of grain sorghum
was increased from 540 pounds of grain on the untreated plot to
1,774 pounds on the treated plot, an increase of 222 percent.
Applications on the soil of more than 3,000 pounds per acre of
ferrous sulfate were required to accomplish similar increases in
yields.
Manganese. While soil manganese becomes less available in
alkaline soils, many states in more humid regions of the country
often report manganese deficiencies in peat and muck soils and in
local areas of alkaline soils. Manganese deficiencies are frequently
corrected by spray applications of manganese sulfate, usually five to
10 pounds per acre. Manganese sulfate is also applied to the soil at
rates of from 20 to 150 pounds per acre. Manganous oxide is also
used to correct manganese deficiencies. In alkaline soils an acid-
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[ ] August 21, 2015
forming material, usually fertilizer, is applied to prevent fixation of
the applied manganese. NH4+ applied H+ released.
Zinc is often sprayed on the leaves of apple and pear trees to
relieve "leaf rosetting," a symptom of zinc deficiency.
Approximately 25 pounds of zinc sulfate in 100 gallons of water
(roughly a three per cent solution) applied to apple trees just before
the buds open has corrected zinc deficiency. Zinc sulfide, zinc
oxide, and zinc carbonate have all been successfully used as sprays.
Driving galvanized (zinc-coated) nails in trees also relieves zinc
deficiency.
Boron, as boric acid or borax (sodium tetraborate), used as a foliar
spray has proved to be a successful method of application. Internal
cork of apples has been controlled by spraying the foliage with eight
pounds of borax in 100 gallons of water. As little as two pounds of
borax per 100 gallons of water has checked "cracked stem" of
celery. Boron has been satisfactorily applied to the soil, either alone
or in mixed fertilizers.
Copper deficiency has been controlled by spraying the leaves with
a mixture of eight pounds of CuSO4 plus eight pounds of Ca(OH)2,
in 100 gallons of water. Without the calcium hydroxide, the copper
sulfate injures the foliage. Copper oxide has also been used
successfully as a spray.
Molybdenum, as sodium molybdate, 1 ounce in 100 gallons of
water, has eliminated deficiency symptoms in citrus trees.
Somewhat like iron, however, molybdenum does not seem to be
readily translocated within the plant. Spraying only the lower half of
a citrus tree that showed molybdenum deficiency did not cure the
deficiency symptoms on the upper half of the tree.
In highly acid soils, molybdenum is sometimes fixed in an
unavailable form, thus causing deficiencies, particularly for
legumes. The amount of molybdenum in soils and the amount
required by plants is very small. In addition to sodium molybdate
soil application of 0.5 to two pounds per acre, a commercial seed-
coating preparation (Molygro) for some legumes, applied at about
two ounces per acre, is used to correct deficiencies. Broadcast
applications are best mixed with limestone on very acid soils to
prevent fixation.
RACUN SERANGGA BUAT SENDIRI...AMAT MUDAH DAN
BERKESAN: detai kat sini
:http://www.abc.net.au/gardening/stories/s2281115.htm -
Mohmmad abdul Rahman
By عبدالرحمن on Tuesday, 27 November 2012 at 16:15 محمد
(VERSI BAHASA MELAYU KAT BAWAH ARTIKEL BI )
Horticultural oils are among the safest and most effective ways of
controlling a range of sap sucking and chewing pests in the garden.
These days there are two options - traditional white oil, which is
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[ ] August 21, 2015
based on a vegetable oil, and modern horticultural oils, which are
thinner and based on petroleum oil.
The lighter coloured, modern oils spread faster than the old
fashioned vegetable oil. This is important because it means that the
modern, less viscous, oil doesn’t clog leaf pores when the
temperature is over 30 degrees. So in hot weather the newer oil
won’t damage your plants.
The other difference is that the modern horticultural oils are based on
petroleum and are expensive to buy. White oil is cheap and better
still, you can make it yourself.
White oil recipe:
• Use two cups of vegetable oil (I’m an organic gardener, so I use
sunflower oil because there’s no chance that it could be genetically
modified) and half a cup of washing up liquid.
• Put those into a jar. Put the lid on and give it a good shake and
you’ve got concentrated white oil.
• Label it and store this in a cool, dry place and it should last about
three months. Remember to also label it with the dilution rate - two
dessert spoons per litre of water.( bersamaan 20ml/lit)
Gardeners have been using oils for about 200 years so it’s been
thoroughly road tested. Use these oils on broad leaved trees and
shrubs. Don’t use them on hairy or soft leaved plants like lettuce,
because it will burn the leaves. The best spraying action is to cover
both sides of the leaves and the bark and it’s best to spray in the cool
of the morning.
Horticultural oils will control aphids, scale, mealy bug and citrus leaf
miner as well as caterpillars. It works by blocking their breathing
pores and this suffocates the pest. There is no way that pests will
ever become resistant to white oil – so it’s good forever.
Information contained in this fact sheet is a summary of material
included in the program. If further information is required, please
contact your local nursery or garden centre.
Copyright Restrictions: This fact sheet is for private and domestic
information purposes only. It may not be copied, reproduced, sold or
used for any other purpose without the express permission of the
ABC.Alihbahasa oleh MAR :
Minyak Hortikultur adalah antara cara yang paling selamat dan
paling berkesan untuk mengawal pelbagai serangga penghisap sap
dan pemakan daun dan perosak tanaman di ladang. Disini terdapat
dua pilihan - minyak putih tradisional, yang berasaskan minyak
sayur-sayuran, dan minyak moden hortikultur, yang cair ,nipis yang
berasaskan minyak petroleum yang lebih ringan dan merata dengan
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[ ] August 21, 2015
lebih cepat berbanding minyak sayuran tradisional. Ini adalah
penting kerana ia , kurang likat, minyak tidak menyumbat liang daun
atau stomata apabila suhu melebihi 30 darjah C. Jadi, dalam cuaca
panas minyak yang baru tidak akan merosakkan tumbuh-tumbuhan
anda.
Perbezaan lain adalah bahawa minyak hortikultur yang bersaskan
petroleum agak mahal untuk membeli. Sementara minyak putih
adalah murah dan lebih baik lagi, anda boleh membuatnya sendiri.
Minyak resipi Putih
• Gunakan dua cawan minyak sayuran , minyak jagung atau minyak
bunga matahari atau seangkatan dan ½ cawan sabun basuh pinggan
( palmolive, sunlight atau setara)
• Masukan dalam balang. Tutup tudung dan goncanglah supaya
membentuk emulsi minyak putih pekat. Botol mineral 1 lit pun
buleh di gunakan untuk menggoncang.
• Label dan simpan di tempat yang sejuk, kering dan ia di gunakan
dalam masa kira-kira tiga bulan. Tandakan label dengan kadar
pencairan - dua sudu pencuci mulut seliter air (bersamaan 20ml/lit).
Para petani sudah menggunakan cara ini sejak kira-kira 200 tahun
dahulu . Di gunakan minyak ini sebagai foliar semburan pada pokok
rene pokok renek berdaun. Jangan gunakan pada tumbuhan berbulu
atau berdaun lembut seperti salad, kerana ia akan membakar daun.
Tindakan semburan terbaik adalah untuk meratakan kedua-dua belah
daun dan batang , yang terbaik semburan waktu pagi.
Minyak Hortikultur baik untuk kawalan scales, aphids, mealy bug
(pepijat bertepung )dan ulat pelombong daun serta beluncas. Ia
berfungsi dengan menyekat liang pernafasan mereka dan dan
melemaskan serangga itu . Menggunakan minyak putih ini tidaka
akan menjadikan kekebalan pada serangga , jadi ianya boleh di
gunakan berterusan selama-lamanya.
FORMULA UNTUK SALAD, KAILAN, SAWI- Mohammad
Abdul Rahman
By عبدالرحمن on Thursday, 22 November 2012 at 22:40 محمد
LETTUCE
The formula below is a standard hydroponic lettuce formula using
standard hydroponic fertilizer salts. Some of these, such as iron
chelate and monopotassium phosphate, may need to be imported or
sourced from fertilizer suppliers. However, they prevent the growth
problems that could develop from the use of ammonium phosphate
and avoid the use of expensive magnesium nitrate.
Lettuce Hydroponic Nutrient Formulation (Grams of Fertilizer Salts
To Be Dissolved Into Two 100-Liter Stock Solution Tanks; When
Diluted 1:100, This Will Give an EC of 1.2, a TDS of 840, and a pH
of 5.9, Water Supply Permitting)
Note: This formula is for good quality, low mineral water sources
and does not take into account any minerals that may already be
present in the source water.
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Part A
Calcium nitrate 7,505.4
Potassium nitrate 1751
Iron chelate 500
Part B
Monopotassium phosphate 1,191.3
Magnesium sulfate 2,552.8
Manganese sulfate 80
Zinc sulfate 11.01
Boric acid 39
Copper sulfate 3.02
Ammonium molybdate 1
The Editor replies:
Here is the general lettuce nutrient formulation I have (to be added to
100 liters of stock solution):
Part A Calcium nitrate 7,549 grams (g)
Iron EDTA 260 g
Part B
Potassium nitrate 1,703 g
Monopotassium phosphate 1,198 g
Magnesium sulfate 2,571 g
Copper sulfate 2 g
Manganese sulfate 41.7 g
Zinc sulfate 2.6 g
Boric acid 25 g
Ammonium molybdate 1.02 g
When diluted 1:100, this formula gives a CF of 12 (EC 1.2 mS/cm)
and results in parts per million (ppm) levels of N=140.9, K=96.4,
P=25.2, Ca=151, Mg=25.3, S=33.3, Fe=2.5, Mn=1, Zn=0.06,
B=0.45, Cu=0.05, Mo=0.05.
More potassium should be provided during summer for red lettuce
varieties.
FORMULA BAJA FERTIGASI STRAWBERRY- Mohammad
Abdul Rahman
By عبدالرحمن on Thursday, 22 November 2012 at 20:07 محمد
Formula untuk strawberry.
Nutrient Solution Formula untuk Hydroponic Strawberries (berat
bahan untuk di larutkan dalam 50 lit stock , dan kadar bancuhan
untuk dipakai 1:100, dan memberi EC 1.7 dan pH 5.80
Part A
Calcium nitrate 2.94 kg
Potassium nitrate 2.10 kg
Iron EDTA 240gm
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Part B
Monopotassium phosphate 1.60 kg
Magnesium sulfate 2.40 kg
Manganese sulfate 38gm
Zinc sulfate 5gm
Boric acid 18gm
Copper sulfate 2gm
Ammonium molybdate 0.5gm
Jika mau gunakan stok 100 lit, gandakan berat bahan tu
FORMULA BAJA UNTUK TIMUN...Oleh Mohammad Abdul
Rahman
By عبدالرحمن on Sunday, 14 October 2012 at 21:00 محمد
1. Untuk Pertumbuhan awal vegetative ) EC 1.2-2.4 pH 6.0-6.2
CaNO3 ( Calcium Nitrate ) 8.80 kg
KNO3 ( Potassium Nitrate 5.80 kg
KH2PO4 ( Monopotassium Phosphate ) 1.00 kg
K2SO4 ( Potassium Sulfate ) 0.50 kg
Mg SO4*7H2O : %Mg 9.80 or0.098 5.10 kg
% S 12.9 or 0.129
Diammonium phosphate 1.8 kg
Chelated Iron ( 13% Fe ) 462 gm
Boric acid ( H3BO3 ) 40.0 gm
Manganese Sulfate ( MnSO4 ) 55.0 gm atau
Manganous Chloride ( MnCl2 4H2O ) 58.0 gm
Zinc Sulfate ( ZnSo4 7H2O ) 7.66 gm
Cupric Chloride ( CuCl2 2H2O ) 1.86 gm
Molybdenum Trioxide ( Mo O3 ) 0.75 gm atau
ammonium molibdate 1.00 gm
Untuk Perkembangan pembungaan dan production )
EC 2.4 - 2.6 ) pH 5.8-6.0
CaNO3 ( Calcium Nitrate ) 10.25 kg
KNO3 ( Potassium Nitrate 3.50 kg
KH2PO4 ( Monopotassium Phosphate ) 3.40 kg
K2SO4 ( Potassium Sulfate ) 3.30 kg
Mg SO4*7H2O : % Mg 9.80 or 0.098 8.10 kg
% S 12.9 or 0.129
NH4NO3 nil
Chelated Iron ( 13% Fe ) 462 gm
Boric acid ( H3BO3 ) 40.0 gm
Manganese Sulfate ( MnSO4 ) 55.0 gm atau
Manganous Chloride ( MnCl2 4H2O ) 58.0 gm
Zinc Sulfate ( ZnSo4 7H2O ) 7.66 gm
Cupric Chloride ( CuCl2 2H2O ) 1.86 gm
Molybdenum Trioxide ( MoO3 ) 0.75 gm atau
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ammonium molibdate 1.00 gm
Jika menggunakan bahan lain spt EDTA untuk micro, kira baliklah
berat di perlukanberdasarkan kandungan % bahan.
NATURAL FARMING With ORGANIC & BIOLOGICAL
TECHNOLOGY - PART 2
By Haris Versi Baru on Thursday, 11 October 2012 at 10:33
NATURAL FARMING With ORGANIC & BIOLOGICAL
TECHNOLOGY - PART 2
HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN SUGAR
Materials:
Sugar cane juice or fresh coconut juice (tuba)
Big cooking stainless steel basin
Wooden mixing ladle
Stove and fuel
Procedure:
Press fresh sugarcane to extract juice - 08.0% sucrose content
Or gather fresh coconut juice (tuba) - 16.8% sucrose content
Place in the cooking basin
Boil to dehydrate
Mix continuously until totally dry and dehydrated with wooden
ladle.
Place the dehydrated brown sugar (moscovado) in clean dry
containers.
Ready for storage and use.
Uses:
May be used for food, food preparation and processing
Feed additive for poultry and livestock
For bioorganic preparations and additive.
HOW TO MAKE VIRGINE COCONUT OIL
Processing virgin coconut oil right in your own home and kitchen
is
very easy and simple.
Grit the meat of freshly opened mature coconut.
Pour a little water and mush the greeted coconut meat.
Press to extract the coconut milk.
Let the milk stay overnight or for 10 to 12 hours.
The water will settle down the container and the oil will float.
Drain out the water.
Heat the oil in stainless steel kettle in 45 to 70 degrees
temperature for 15 to 30 minutes to remove and evaporate remaining
water in the oil. Better heat oil in double kettle where the first has
water in direct contact with fire and the other with oil inside the
casserole with heated water.
Place the virgin coconut oil in bottle and seal.
Store in room temperature away from sunlight.
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Another way of preserving virgin oil is by freezing instead of
heating.
Virgin coconut oil is used for various purposes. It is used for
medication, beauty and body skin ointment, cooking oil, lubricant,
fuel, etc. It does not get rancid when the right procedure is done.
TAKING CARE OF YOUR SOIL THE NATURAL WAYS
Several researches have found that declining crop yield is related
to the loss of soil quality. Soils are threatened by water and wind
erosion, salinisation, and nutrient depletion, chemical interference
that kills microbiological soil born organisms and other things.
Soil depletion is causing sever impact on agriculture like what is
now happening in the Philippines. We are just now waking up to the
growing magnitude of soil depletion in most agricultural lands using
conventional farming, heavily dependent on chemical fertilization,
herbal, pest and disease control. The Ecological Society of the
Philippines headed by its president Antonio M. Claparols is very
much concerned on the deteriorating soil condition of the country.
Global warming makes things worse. As the ground heat up,
organic matter decompose more rapidly, reducing soil fertility,
releasing carbon dioxide which increase the warming effects. High
priority for soil restoration through carbon sequestration or storing
carbon in the soil securely so that it is not easily re-emitted through
soil conservation and incorporation of organic fertilizers.
Composts are natural fertilizers that supply soils with vital plant
nutrients helping to retain water and air. It restores soil structure, soil
carbon anti-biotic activity. Compost or organic fertilizers improves
soil texture, helps to control weeds, pest and diseases.
The prices of commercial chemical fertilizers price are
skyrocketing, beyond the purchasing power of the marginal farmers.
Attention is now focused on teaching and encouraging farmers and
entrepreneurs to invest on the production of organic fertilizers.
Organic fertilizers can easily be made by farmers from readily
available materials such as plant leaves and residues, animal waste
and other biodegradable substances. They do not have to buy or get
credit to make their own fertilizer and soil conditioners. Soil fertility
and health can also be restored with resting the soil for a year or two,
green manure, incorporating crop residue with soil during land
preparation or cultivation, and planting of trees along farm boarders
and banks of waterways.
The Philippines is among the 17 most bio-diverse countries in the
world. Part of the Philippines treasure are the large forest trees which
are rapidly vanishing. Trees are contributing to the ecological
balance as they help clean the air and conserve water. One hectare of
forest is needed to supply the fresh nitrogen needed by 40 persons.
Trees and wild vegetation are not only needed in the countryside
and farming areas, but more so in communities and urban areas
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where population density is high. Urban gardens and soils can be
improved by growing trees and using organic compost fertilizers.
USE OF ORGANIC COMPOST FERTILIZER
AND BIO MICRO INOCULANTS
Organic compost fertilizer is the closest we can return to natural
farming. The emerging farming system is towards the use of organic
fertilizer in combination with chemical fertilizer.
There are now available in the market several Pro-biotic like BYM
and Tricograma that helps hasten the breakdown and decomposition
of organic cellulous materials to convert them into organic fertilizer.
Simple way of preparing organic compost:
The old practice is the sandwich type where different organic
materials or waste are pilled layer after layer like plant residue +
animal waste + soil and repeat the process until reaching a meter
high. Keep it moist and insert a bamboo with ventilated holes to
aerate until the material decomposes. Then mix the material and keep
it moist until totally decomposed. Aerate and expose to sunlight
before applying as fertilizer.
The new practice is chopping or hammer-milling the organic
materials then spraying pro-biotic to the mass, keep it moist and
cover with plastic sheet to avoid dehydration. Mix the mass at least
once a week. With sufficient digester (microorganism or pro-biotic)
it will take less than a month to convert organic materials into ready
to use fertilizer.
Mixing a combination of different organic materials both plant and
animal source will insure a more complete nutrient content of the
organic fertilizer. Pro-biotic spray or inoculation of the compost will
present destructive and undesirable microorganisms to grow. The
odor becomes pleasant.
COMPOST
Composting, essentially a rapid self heating process by which
organic material is decomposed and stabilized, was practiced by
ancient Egyptians, Greeks and Romans and is even mentioned in
religious texts. During the past 20 years, this time honored practice
has developed into a robust waste-management technology that
generates valuable organic soil amendments.
Biological treatment technologies may be either aerobic or
anaerobic. Aerobic systems use oxygen, but anaerobic ones don’t.
Both may use heat to fuel the reactions that break down organic
matter in manure. In composting, heat is generated by microbes that
digest organic matter. After decomposition, it will be good to
sanitize the organic compound by drying or exposing it to sunlight
for a day or
two.
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“Nutrient stabilization in composted manure allows soil microbes
and plants to use the nutrients in a slow-release and beneficial
manner. Compost may even help reduce demand for nitrogen in
certain crops.” Says Patricia Miller of the Environmental Microbial
Safety Laboratory in Beltsville, Maryland
Composting is one of several technologies used to treat animal
manure, sewage sludge, and other organic residuals, which may
contain pathogens or parasites of public health concern. In any
manure slurry system, solid can be composted. Liquids can be
further processed to stabilize nitrogen and phosphorus in soluble
forms compatible with current nutrient-management requirements.
Soil structure is easy to improve with compost. Organic matter is
the most important source of plant nutrients contributing to the
fertility of the soil. Compost material sustains healthy plant growth
by providing food for both living microorganisms, speeding up their
multiplication and absorption of the roots. Organic matter ha also
dual role that helps water move through the soil and at the same time
improve the soil’s water holding capacity. Unlike depleted soils of
organic matter, soils rich in humus retain a good surface and do not
crust or clod after heavy rains. Aeration is good in humus rich soils
and this important factor means root growth is good. Organic matter
also acts as storage for nutrients, increases cat ion exchange capacity
and acts as a regulator for nutrients, so they are not all releases at one
time.
HOW TO PREPARE YOUR OWN LACTO BASILLAI
LACTO BASILLAI is one of the beneficial microorganisms called
pro-biotic. It helps in the breaking down of cellulose fibers and
converts organic materials into humus and fertilizer. Producing your
own stock of lacto bacilli can easily by done using the following
procedure:
1. Use rice wash or finely grounded grain preferably brown rice
mix in water.
2. Place in a wide plastic basin and cover loosely to allow
ventilation.
3. Allow it to ferment for 7 days. Bacteria including lacto
bacilli in air will infect solution.
4. Strain liquid and place in bigger plastic container.
5. Add 10 parts milk (skim, powdered, condensed or fresh)
Milk is best feed for lacto bacilli will multiply rapidly and
overgrow other bacteria in solution. .
6. Cover loosely to allow ventilation and ferment for another
one week.
7. The flotsam consisting of fats, carbohydrate and protein
contain lacto bacilli.
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8. Scoop the flotsam and mix with food or feed materials. A
yellow colored liquid will form containing a great
concentration of lacto bacilli.
9. Store in refrigeration or room temperature.
10. Mix liquid in equal quantity of rough brown sugar,
moscovado or molasses.
11. Mix stock solution in 20 parts water. Use to is with compost
materials.
12. Dosage: Use 2-4 tbs. per gallon water and spray to plants.
HOW TO MAKE COMPOST
The sandwich method:
1. Organic materials such as animal waste, plant waste and
topsoil are placed in layers one on top of the other until they
reach a high of 3 feet.
2. The material is watered moist and covered with coconut
leaves or plastic sheet in order that moisture will be retained.
3. Mix the compost pill after two weeks, moist and cover again.
4. Repeat mixing once a week, until the compost materials are
totally decompose with the appearance of soil.
5. Dry in direct sunlight to kill or eliminate unwanted
microorganisms such as fungus and bacteria.
6. The material is now ready for use or placed in sacks for
storage or shipment.
Biological fast composting:
1.
1. Gather the organic material, chop or hammer mill
and mix thoroughly.
2. Water them moist with pro-biotic microorganism
(lactobacilli or trichoderma) mixed in the water.
1.
1. Cover the compost pile with plastic sheet.
2. Mix the material every week.
3. It will usually take only 4 weeks to totally
decompose the material with the aid of the
microorganisms that help digest the cellulose
materials.
4. Sundry the decomposed organic material (fertilizer)
to kill unwanted microorganisms.
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5. The material is now ready for use or bagging for
storage or shipment.
Field composting:
1.
1. After harvest and just before plowing and land
preparation, gather the organic materials, chop or
hammer mill.
2. Spread the materials evenly in the field. In case the
plant waste residues are in the field, then step a. will
not be necessary.
3. Spray the organic material in the field with pro-
biotic microorganism.
4. Plow and disk-harrow the field to mix the organic
material with the soil.
5. If possible do the above operation just before an
expected rain or irrigate the field after the plowing
of cultivation. This will allow the microorganism to
work fast, and multiply. In the process, digesting the
organic material into organic fertilizer or soil
amendment.
Note that the pro-biotic organisms will continue working in the
soil, as long as favorable conditions like adequate soil moisture and
presence of organic materials.
Steps in composting with wild sunflower:
1. Look for a suitable area, partly or fully shaded.
2. Gather compost materials such as rice straw, animal manure,
and other farm waste.
3. Collect wild sunflower and chop the young stem and leaves
into small pieces.
4. Stick a bamboo with holes to serve as ventilator of the
compost pile.
5. Pile crops residue and farm waste in the following sequence:
rice straw, sunflower, manure, soil and repeat the layering.
Proportion: 2-3 parts fresh sunflower, 1 part rice straw, 2
parts manure and 1 part soil.
6. Water the pile until thoroughly wet.
7. Cover pile with leaves, sack or plastic sheet to minimize
evaporation.
8. Check the moisture every 2 days, and wet in case compost
dry up.
9. Check also the temperature. If it is warm, then
decomposition is taking place.
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10. After 3 to 4 weeks, check the compose pile and if it has turn
into soil humus physical form it is most likely ripe.
11. In case the compose will not immediately be used, air dry
before placing into sacks or in a shady dry place.
Farmers are encouraged to implement simple and inexpensive ways
of producing organic fertilizers through the use of indigenous
technology. They may adopt other methods of composting by using
other materials and plant waste available in their respective farms.
VEMICOMPOSTING
VERMICOMPOSTING is composting plant materials with worms.
The advantage of vermi-composting to that of the usual conventional
compost pile is that the process is faster and the resulting organic soil
is richer in certain nutrients provided by the earthworms themselves.
It is rich in Humic acid, which is a growth promoting.
African Night Crawler (Eudrilis eugeniae) earthworm are
incredible eaters and will eat and expel their own weight every day
when conditions are right. It takes 60 days or less for fresh organic
waste to be converted into compost fertilizer. Our native earthworm
may also be employed.
Steps in Vermi-composting:
1.
1. Have a shed for the composting site to protect the
worms from direct sunlight and from torrential rains
to be able to do their work undisturbed. The worms
need a good living condition, dimly lit area to live in
with enough moisture.
2. Construct a storage area for digested compost before
it is screened and bagged.
3. Construct the compost bed for worms to digest with
concrete hollow blocks three blocks high with a
depth of 30-45 cm., 1 meter wide by 2 meters long
or longer. Be sure that the soil bed is well drained
under the composting bed. The worms will not
escape into the soil if there is available food to
digest.
4. Use a shredder or hammer mill to crush the organic
materials into small particles easy to decompose and
eaten by the earthworms. Good food: They need
25% nitrogen from legumes like madre de cacao and
ipil-ipil leaves, chicken droppings and cattle dung,
etc. and 75% carbon source like grasses, rice and
corn stalks, cogon and sugarcane tops.
5. Mixing old animal manure and chicken droppings (2
months old) with shredded vegetable waste will
improve the nutrient content of the finish product.
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Do not use fresh manure for the ammonia produced
will give discomfort to the worms.
6. Water the bed from time to time to keep them moist
but not flooded so as not to drown the worms.
7. Fence off or screen in the beds to keep out chickens,
birds, rodents and other pest that will eat or bother
the worms in the wormery.
8. Mix a little ordinary soil to the fresh shredded
vegetable materials before introducing the worms.
9. Place one kilogram of worms per square meter for
fast composting. 10-20 pieces may do to start with
but it will take longer time to compost while the
worms breed to increase their number. A kilo of
worms are sold for P500 and they breed fast in two
months.
10. Inoculating and spraying the compost materials with
pro-biotic bacteria will help fast tract decomposition
and the worms to digest the compost in much shorter
time.
11. When the compost is digested, the worms become
less active. It is time to herd them to another
compartment with fresh food materials. As they
leave, the digested compost is ready for harvest and
transferred to the stocking or holding area for
screening, drying and packing.
12. Harvesting will be easier by allowing the bed with
completely digested compost material to dry up so
the worms will move to the next compartment with
moisture and fresh shredded vegetable food
materials.
13. Screen the material with ¼ inch mesh before
weighing and bagging for sale. A 50 kilo bag humus
is sold for P150 to P300 to gardeners. If you use it in
your own farm, there is no need of screening. (Note:
Commercial imported chemical fertilizer today
prices have gone over P600 per 50 kilo bag)
The worm’s feces are called vermin-casting or humus. Compost
takes 2-3 months to decompose, while shredded materials fed to
worms takes only 15-21 days.
Advantages of Vermicomposting:
1. Environment friendly. The use of organic fertilizer, vermin-
casting of humus is one, revives the soil fertility level and
brings back life to soil environment, improves soil texture
and improves water holding capacity.
2. Economical. Investment on vermicomposting is only about
P2.00 per kilo while commercial chemical fertilizer cost P8-
15 per kilo.
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3. Higher Crop Yield. Humus have shown its potency in
inducing higher crop yield for a longer period. Vermi-casting
humus is found to be more effective compared to ordinary
compost and chemical fertilizers.
4. Market Potential is Very Big. Organically grown food crops
are increasing in market demand. Organic fertilizer has
likewise increase in use as imported commercial fertilizer
have been increasing its prices.
5. No imported inputs required. Farmers can make their own
organic fertilizer from farm waste materials. This means no
dependence on imports and oil price fluctuations.
6. Healthful. Organic farming is considered as healthful way of
growing food crops.
7. Lesser risk. Producing your own fertilizer will make you
unaffected by exchange rates and fluctuation changes in the
prices of other commodities. There is less or no risk at all
producing your own fertilizer and even selling excess
requirement of your own farm.
8. Undemanding laborers. The worms themselves them selves
are the workers converting farm waste materials into organic
plant food nutrients.
9. Big savings. Producing your own fertilizer is a big savings
and cost cutting for the farmers.
10. Income-earner. This technology can help farmers earn more
from their farm waste
MAGGOT COMPOSTING
Instead of using earthworm, a simple natural process has been
discovered in fast composting. A mixture of sawdust and chicken or
quail droppings are placed in a compost pile covered with shed. The
maggots eat up the cellulose in a few weeks instead of several
months. To prevent the maggots to complete its cycle to adult flies,
chickens are allowed to scratch and peak the growing maggots, a
source of animal protein. Spraying or drenching the compost pile
with pro-biotic microorganisms (beneficial bacteria and fungi) will
help hasten decomposition and prevent foul odor.
SLUDGE FERTILIZER
Liquid sewage sludge being disposed as communal waste contain
essential elements needed by crops, making it a potential organic
fertilizer and soil conditioner for sugarcane farms, corn fields, rice
lands and even fruit orchards and vegetable gardens.
In a research conducted by Luzon Agricultural Research and
Extension Center (LAREC) of the Sugar Regulatory Administration
(SRA) in cooperation with Manila Water Company, Inc., the use of
liquid sewage sludge for agricultural purposes was assessed to
determine its effects on the growth and yield of sugarcane. The study
was conducted at LAREC R&D Farm at Floridablanca, Pampanga.
It was confirmed the application of liquid sewage sludge in the
barren sandy lahar deposits of Floridablanca, Pampanga the soil
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became richer and sustain healthy and productive sugar cane,
compared with untreated field.
COMPOSTING CROP RESIDUE IN THE FIELD
Rice and corn are among the traditional crops grown by Filipino
farmers. As the usual practice is removing the debris and burn them
to clear the land and cultivate for next planting. Tones of organic
materials are wasted and lost.
Organic farmers spread rice straw and corn cubs back to the field
immediately after harvest. They are sprayed with beneficial
microorganisms or pro-biotic or bacteria and plowed under. In 4
weeks, they are decomposed and the field is ready for land
preparation for new planting.
This practice is also being started with big pineapple and banana
plantations in Mindanao. Some sugarcane planters found the benefit
of composting cane residue in the field instead of the usual practice
of burning after harvest then cultivating and fertilizing. Field
composting of crop residue help retain and improve soil fertility, at
the start reduces the use of chemical fertilizer to the time that no
more synthetic fertilizer is needed.
Coconut trees and other fruit trees have lots of leaves, bracts,
twigs, flowers and fruits that fall to the grown. When these materials
are allowed to decompose beneath the trees, they turn into humus
and fertilizer to the trees. Unfortunately, because of clean culture,
they are removed and burned. Teaching the farmers to return the
crop residue to the soil from where they came from will both enrich
the soil and sustain productivity of the trees without relying solely on
chemical or synthetic fertilizers.
GREEN MANURING
Green manuring is the is the planting of seasonal crops usually
legumes like beans and plowing them under at their tender age
during flowering and early fruiting when they are rich in nutrients.
Plowing under weeds and grasses, allowing them to decompose is
also green manuring. Spraying them with pro-biotic will hasten their
decomposition. These practices have long been done by farmers’
century back, until commercial chemical fertilizers have been
introduced to the market.
COVER CROPPING
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Cover cropping is the growing of low crawling plants usually
leguminous vines like centrocema pubisence and kudsu to protect the
soil surface from water erosion, prevent the growth of noxious weeds
and help increase soil fertility. These are grown beneath fruit trees
and taller crops.
INDIGENOUS POTTING MATERIALS
Garden soils have been the usual potting materials for gardeners.
However there are different Potting mix and indigenous materials
that gardeners and nursery operators may use. Here are some of the
suggestions offered to readers by Anthony Gaw of Aim Trading
Corporation, Calihan, San Pedro City, Laguna with Telex (049) 800-
1572:
A mixture of fertile garden or topsoil decomposed organic materials
and fine river sand at 1:1:1 ratio.
Rice hull charcoal is half burned rice hull. It contains a high level of
carbon needed by plants for normal growth. It makes the mixed
medium looses and easier for root development. It helps retain
fertilizer and releases to plants in a longer time. Rice hull charcoal is
mixed in 1:4 ratios with other potting materials. It is good for
seedling trays, potted plants, vegetable pots and herbs in pots.
Washed coco peat comes from the husk of coconut. The coconut
hush is shredded and soaked in water for several days and washed
with fresh clean water. It has a good water holding capacity. It is
mixed with other materials at 1:1 ratio. Very good for seedling trays,
vegetable plots, potted plants and fruit bearing trees.
Fermented Bagasse and garden soil at 1:4 ratios Bagasse is
sugarcane pulp. Decomposed bagasse is rich in humates providing
plants with essential trace elements. It is suitable for fast growing
vegetables like peachy, mustard and lettuce.
Pumice Stones are small volcanic rocks with other materials at 1:5
ratios. Pumice stones prevent panning or the compacting of the
medium due to strong watering. They are good for seedling trays,
potted flowering plants, and orchid community pots.
Granulated charcoal comes from coconut shell. It is a good material
for drainage that prevents excessive moisture that damaged the roots.
It is a source of carbon a plant nutrient needed in maturing. A layer
or two is placed at the bottom of the pot before potting materials are
place into the pot.
Powdered charcoal. The coconut shell or wooden charcoal is
pulverized into powder. It helps absorb foul odor of decomposing
organic materials. It helps beneficial bacteria hasten decomposing
process. Spread at leas an inch thick on compost pills or
decomposing materials.
Short coconut fiber from coconut husk is separated through
decortications. It is a good mulching material for sensitive plants. 1
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to 2 layers is place on top of soil or partly mixed with soil to prevent
erosion.
Granulated Zeolite are chipped from boulders and used as absorbent
material. Fertilizers and plant nutrients absorbed by seolite are
released to the plant roots slowly and continually for a longer period
of time. It controls the growth of molds and fungus, especially in
nitrogen rich medium.
Cubed coconut husk The husks are sterilized and then chopped to
produce uniform sized cubes, It has a good water holding capacity
and ideal for aerial plants tike anthuriums, bromeliads, dendrobiums,
and other high value aerial plants.
SOIL CONDITIONERS
There are many kinds of soil conditioners, depending on the
different soil conditions and deficiencies. Progressive farmers should
know them and how to use them properly to make their soil rich and
highly productive as the years go by. Among them are:
Agricultural lime, to correct very acid soils and brings the pH level
to near pH-7, which is neutral and suitable to most plant growth and
availability of plant nutrients for root absorption.
Organic fertilizers, to both improve the soil texture and increase its
fertility.
Chemical fertilizers, to supply the nutrient deficiency of the soil and
meet the nutrient requirement of the crops grown.
Organic composts are decomposed or partly decompose or plain
organic materials place or incorporated into the soil to improve its
texture and later through the action of microorganisms are fully
digested and converted into soil nutrients that are readily absorbed
by the plant roots.
Probiotics or Microbes are beneficial bacteria and microorganisms
that helps digest and decompose organic materials and convert them
into soil nutrients made available to root absorption. There are now a
lot of available preparations of these microorganisms sold in the
market. They are usually mixed in water and sprayed into the soil or
organic compost to help hasten decomposition and fight the bad or
undesirable microorganisms in the soil. Probiotics can help reduce
the use of chemical fertilizer and help improve the texture of the soil.
MICROORGANISMS ENHANCES CROP PRODUCTIVITY
(As reported by Bengie P. Gibe, S&T Media Service)
Microorganisms, also known as microbes, are microscopic
organisms like bacteria, protozoa, algae, fungus and virus. They are
found in soil, water and atmosphere, and inextricably intermingled in
the environment. There are bad and good organisms. Some of them
can enhance crop productivity.
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The National Institute of Molecular Biology and Biotechnology
(BIOTECH) of the University of the Philippines Los Banos (UPLB)
produced two, Biological Nitrogen Fixers (BNF): Bio-N and Nitro
Plus.
Bio-N is solid inoculants in powdered form that contains any of
the two important strains of bacteria isolated from the roots of talahib
grass that can convert the nitrogen from the air into ammonia. It can
substitute 30-50% of the nitrogen requirement of rice and corn.
Bio-N increases the yield of rice and corn by as much as 35%
compared with unfertilized treatments, maintains the natural soil
properties and fertility, and makes plants healthy and green even in
drought and in the presence of pests.
Nitro Plus is legume inoculants, which can substitute for nitrogen
chemical fertilizer at a much cheaper cost. This is a bacterium
called rhizobia, which are specific for legumes such as soybeans,
peanut, mungbeans, cowpea and pole sitao.
The bacteria reside inside the nodules of leguminous plants
where they can fix nitrogen directly from the air. Nitro Plus can
replace 30-50% of the nitrogen requirement of the crop.
Mycorrhiza is a symbiotic association between the roots of plant
and fungus. The association provides many benefits to plants. It
increases the absorption of nutrients like phosphorous and water,
serves as a biological control agent against infection, improves soil
properties, increase the tolerance of the crop to environmental
stresses (drought, diseases, mineral imbalances).
BIOTECH has come up with two Mycorrhiza products:
Micogroe and Mycovam.
Mycogroe is a soil based bio-fertilizers tablet form that promotes
survival and growth of forest species like eucalyptus, pines, agoho
and dipterocarps. The tablet is inoculated into tree seedlings during
their nursery stage. Some 60-80% of the fertilizer requirements of
the trees in the fields are replaced by using this microb inoculant.
Mycovam on the other hand, is in powdered form, soil inoculant
effective for agricultural crops like rice, corn potatoes, eggplant, fruit
trees and forest trees.
It is also added during the nursery phase of seedling or
inoculating seeds just immediately before planting. It can replace
fertilizer requirement by as much as 60 to 80% nitrogen.
Bioorganic microorganisms can decompose agricultural residues
and convert into bioorganic fertilizer, which enhances the growth of
plants.
BIOTECH has likewise produced an organic fertilizer technology
that uses two microorganisms:
Trichoderma harzianum or compost fungus activator (CFA),
brand BIO-QUICK.
The other is Azotobacter sp., free-living nitrogen fixing bacteria,
brand BIO-FIX.
BIO-QUICK enhances the process of decomposition by reducing
the composting period from 5-6 months to only 3-4 weeks, after
which the resulting compost is inoculated with BIO-FIX. Inoculation
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of one week produces nitrogen-enriched compost that can be applied
to field crops, vegetables and fruit trees.
These materials are available at BIOTECH, UP, Los Banos,
Laguna at very reasonable price. Reservations and orders have to be
made at least one month before pickup or need.
MULCHING
Mulching is the covering of the soil surface to slow down soil
moisture evaporation or conserve soil moisture, prevent growth of
weeds and keep the soil soft and friable. In the process, beneficial
microorganisms digesting cellulose are protected from the sun and
continue their work of converting organic materials in the soil into
organic fertilizer.
There are different methods of mulching:
Covering soil with cut grasses, weeds, straw, sawdust, rice hull or
other vegetative materials that eventually decomposes and mix with
the soil to add to its humus or organic content.
Covering soil surface with plastic sheet, usually black with silver
surface.
Cultivating or breaking soil surface before summer to break moisture
evaporation.
New technology of mulching is the use of greenhouses or covering
the plants with nets to both reduce sunlight intensity and break the
force of raindrops. This is coupled with the use of ultra violet ray
plastic transparent roofing. These practices are the emerging
conventional technologies that help farmers grow high value
commercial crops in compact and limited areas.
The higher the organic content of the soil particles, the more
moisture holding capacity it has. There are jells from seaweed when
incorporated with the soil improves its water holding capacity and
releases moisture slowly to the roots. This is one advantage in using
humus and decomposed organic fertilizers.
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ISSUES AND FACTS ON ORGANIC FERTILIZERS
ISSUES
FACTS
Organic materials after undergoing decomposition, especially when
applied in large quantities, could cause groundwater pollution.
Inorganic chemical fertilizers are more pollutants to groundwater
even in smaller quantity than organic materials.
Plant do not use directly the nutrient found in organic materials since
this has to first undergo mineralization.
This is true to all types of fertilizers and plant food nutrients. Plants
absorb them in the simplest mineral ion forms.
The amount of essential plant nutrients in organic materials are very
low compared with synthetic chemical fertilizers.
This is true, that is why bigger volume of organic materials is applied
to the soil. However organic fertilizers carrying the 17 nutrients
needed by plants while chemical fertilizer may only carry 2 to 5
nutrient elements.
Organic fertilizer releases the plant food nutrients within a few days
slowly and last at a longer stretch of time that takes years
Chemical fertilizers on the other hand may have immediate and fast
release of nutrients and is dissipated in only 3to 4 months.
Organic materials are claimed to improve physical properties of soil
but this could only be true in aerobic soil condition,
This claim is not entirely true as irrigated lands where organic
fertilizers have been incorporated during land preparation show
outstandingly better crop growth and yield.
Soil organic matter will not increase significantly in just one or two
years of applying organic materials.
This may be true if the quantity of organic fertilizer applied is
minimal, however, periodic application will be improving soil
capacity of sustaining increasing crop productivity as the years go
by.
Organic fertilizer is not the sole factor in improving the quality of the
food product such as increased anti-oxidant content.
Yes there are mineral soil conditioners that will help enhance your
soil with organic fertilizer to improve food crop quality.
Using purely organic fertilizers/materials will not make your crop
productive as when chemical fertilizers are used solely.
This is not true. Organically grown fruits and vegetables without
chemical fertilizers have been producing commercially well.
Organic fertilizers/materials incorporated in the soil improves the
soil texture, nutrient content and feeds microorganisms and keep the
soil alive.
This is one big benefit in using organic materials. The heavy use of
chemical fertilizer have the tendency to make the soil acidic and kills
microorganisms and life forms in the soil making it barren.
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FARMERS’S EXPERIENCES, OBSERVATIONS AND
PRACTICES WORTH SHARING AND EMULATING
In the September 2003 issue of Agriculture Magazine, we read
the experience of a mango grower who turned to natural organic
farming after experiencing big losses due to the high cost of
chemical pesticides. He is Col. Virgilio Ecarma of Batangas with
5,000 bearing trees.
Here is what Col. Ecarma did. On his 2000 trees he stopped
using chemical pesticides and replaced them with his own
concoction of organic preparations. His organic concoction did not
only control pest and diseases, but also invigorated the trees. The
materials he used are neem tree leaves, garlic, vinegar, coconut
water, gin (alcohol), molasses, trash fish, rice brand and effective
microorganism (Pro-biotic).
He prepared his concoction in three 100 litters plastic drums. In
the first drum he filled it 1/3 with neem leaves, added 5 kilos of
molasses, 10 kilos of crushed garlic, 24 bottles of gin (alcohol), 1
gallon of vinegar and filled the drum with water, then covered.
Allowed it to ferment for 15 days, opening the cover to relish
methane gas accumulating.
The second drum was filled half with trash fish, 20 kilos of
molasses and filled the drum with water. Cover and allowed to
ferment for 15 days.
The third drum was filled wit 20 kilos of molasses and 2 litters of
pro-biotic (Effective Microorganism), 5 kilos of rice brand and
coconut water to fill the drum. Cover and allowed to stay for 15
days.
After 15 days, ½ litter of liquid was taken from each drum and
mixed to 100 litters of water and sprayed on the mango trees on a
weekly interval.
The result, fruit flies and mango hoppers were driven away. The
2000 trees sprayed with the organic preparation had a very striking
contrast with the 3000 trees not treated. The prayed trees were very
fruitful, and the fruits were unblemished by fruit fly or anthracnose;
while the 3000 trees untreated were attacked by hoppers and fruit
flies and were unproductive. Col. Ecarma also observed the treated
trees were much healthier. He surmised that the fish emulsion with
Probiotics supplied nitrogen amino acid essential for plant growth.
The organic preparations can also be used to other plants like
ampalaya, patola, guava, macopa, papaya, caimito, banana,
balimbing, siniguelas, pechay and other fruit bearing plants and
vegetables.
-o-o-o-
Organic vegetable growers, Jef and Lydia van Haute bought a
2000 sq. m. land in Balubad Dos, Silang Cavite where they built a
greenhouse and grew organic vegetables, free from toxic chemical
pesticides. They use organic fertilizer.
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When insect pest come into the greenhouse, they spray the plants
with concoction of pepper. Overall, they grow disease free and insect
free healthy vegetables.
They follow a system of crop rotation. They have classified their
vegetables into the Cabbage group, Foliage group, Fruit Vegetable
group, Root Crop group and the Legumes group.
The different groups have their own peculiar pests and diseases,
explains Jet. To avoid pest and disease problems, they rotate the
different groups. For instance, legumes are planted where tomato and
eggplants were planted previously. Pechay and lettuce on the other
hand may be grown where carrots were planted before, and so on.
Another technique in avoiding pest and diseases is to intercrop
plants that repel insect pests such as marigold. Besides repelling
insects, its roots also secrets a substance that kills nematodes in the
soil.
In cases where the vegetables are still infested, the couple, spray
them with organic pesticide like Basilus thoringensis (Bt)
commercially prepared in powdered form and mixed with water for
application to plants.
ORGANIC MANGO
There is now a growing market demand for organically grown
fruits and food crops especially in Europe, and slowly influencing
the world markets. PREDA (Peoples recovery, Empowerment and
Development Assistance Foundation, Inc.) is working on the
commercial production of Certified Organic dried mango. PREDA
agriculturists are working with mango farmers all over Central
Luzon on the first phase of “going organic´ training. We have to take
note however, with the chemical pollution of the soil, air and water
worldwide, we cannot say that crops are grown 100% organic. What
we can do is produce fruits and food crops without toxic chemical
residue when harvested or consumed.
BOTANICAL PESTICIDES for MANGO
Studies on botanical plants with, pesticidal properties against
mango leafhoppers were done by Dr. Hernani Golez and Nenita F.
Zamora of Guimaras Island’s National Mango Research Center
(NMRC). Field test of different crud extracts showed that tobacco
plus detergent and combined extracts of kakawati, tubli and ripe sili
plus detergent (KTRD) were effective against mango hoppers.
Furthermore, KTRD as bio-spray was also effective in the control of
mealybugs attacking the flowers of mango. Incidence of borer
damage was also minimized by spray application of different extracts
(tubli, tobacco, lagundi, atis and makabuhay).
A comparative study is conducted by mango growers assisted by
the Agricultural Training Institute (ATI), at Tukawal, Alabel,
Sarangani Province. The study consist of comparing practices of
1. Mango Grower Contractor practice
2. Chemical Company Recommendations
3. Integrated Pest Management (IPM)
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4. Natural Organic and Biological practice
5. With Control trees
Initial observation shows the Chemical Company
recommendations and the Natural Organic and Biological practices
are competing in excellence. The study shows that growing chemical
free organic mango is commercially attainable.
POST HARVEST TREATMENT
There are several post harvest treatment being employed:
1. Plain warm water washing with 1% salt solution or detergent
and chlorine. Dry fruits after washing as re-infection occur
when fruits are moist.
1. Hot Water Treatment (HWT) where fruits are dipped in 52-
55 degrees water for 10 minutes. A new innovation dip in 59
to 60 degrees water for 30 seconds to one minute. The
temperature range should be strictly maintained and
monitored to avoid scalding if it rises, and if it drops, may
not control the pest and diseases of the fruits. Air-dry
immediately after dipping. Adding chlorine to the water
helps control diseases
The author designed and fabricated a simple HWT tank made out
of one sheet stainless steel plate heated by LPG. Dimension is 20 x
30 inches and 18 inches high. It has a capacity of 2 crates of 20 kilos
per crate per loading. The unit can easily be transported to the site of
harvest. It cost P8,000 to P10,000 per complete unit with stand, gas
stove burner, LPG tank with hose, regulator and thermometer. A
bigger stainless steel tank with 6 crates capacity cost P20,000.00
fabricated by a machine shop in Gen. Santos City.
1. Extended Hot Water Treatment (EHWT) – Dipping the fruit
in 46 - 48 degrees Centigrade for 90 minutes. This treatment
is practiced in Mexico for mango exported to the USA.
1. Vapor Heat Treatment (VHT) where fruits are subjected to
heated vapor until the inner flesh of the fruit reaches 46
degrees for 10 minutes. This treatment is required for
mangoes exported to Japan, and Korea. It is non toxic and
non chemical disinfectant.
1. Chemical Treatment – Using fungicide to control fruit rot.
Fungicides are dissolved in water where the fruits are
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dipped. Benomyl (500-1000 ppm) and other suitable
fungicides are used.
2. Fumigation with Ethylene dibromide (EDB) at the rate of 16
grams per cubic meter for 2 hours at 25oC is done for
mangoes exported to Australia and New Zealand. This will
control and destroy the insect eggs in the fruit. The
Australian government has now banned the use of EDB. The
Philippine government is negotiating to replace ir with VHT
to control fruit fly. Irradiation seems to be more favored by
Australia.
1. Irradiation – This is a new introduction to access fruits and
food preparation to USA and other countries requiring such
quarantine procedure.
These treatments tend to control fruit born diseases like
Anthracnose and Stem End Rot as well as kill insect eggs like Fruit
Fly. Be sure to fully dry the fruits after treatment, before packing
because wet and moist fruits are easily re-infected by fungal rot
diseases.
STEPS IN HOT WATER TREATMENT
1. Heat water up to 55*C and main the temperature range at 52-
55*C during operations. A 59-60 degrees for fast treatment.
1. Place mango in perforated plastic crate or basket that fits
into the hot water tank to maximize the number of fruits that
can be treated in one dipping. In the absence of plastic crate,
any other suitable containers that will not cause bruises on
the fruits may be used. This will avoid direct contact of the
fruits with the hot metal bottom of the tank that can cause
heat injuries or scalding.
1. Dip the mango into the hot water submerged for 5 to 10
minutes, checking the temperature is between 52-55*C. A
faster procedure is 30 to 60 seconds dipping in 59 to 60
degrees water. It is advisable to move the crates now and
then to equalize the heat and help remove the dirt from the
fruits.
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1. Use electric fan to hasten drying. When fully dried, sort
them and pack carefully in fruit boxes or crates for storage or
shipment to the market.
1. Some buyers do not want chemically treated fruits, so HWT
or VHT are done without using fungicide of chemicals.
The above operations should be done within 4 to 8 hours after
harvest. It is even preferable for small quantity harvest to do the
whole operation right in the field or farm. Treat fruits within 4 hour
of picking while latex are still wet.
Harvested mangoes should never be exposed to direct sunlight,
wind, rain and other contaminants, either in the farm or during
transport to the processing plant and packaging site. If this cannot be
avoided, thorough washing and hot water treatment should be done
and completely dried and packed avoiding re-contamination.
ORGANIC FARMERS
Mr. Jose (Batchoy) and his life partner Mrs. Pamela (Pam)
Henares of Sitio Balugo, Bry. Alangilan, Bacolod City are practicing
organic farming. They grow black pepper and lettuce organically.
They do not want to contaminate the drinking water of the city which
comes from their farm area.
Besides the vegetables and flowers, raise 50,000 heads of broiler
from where they source their organic fertilizer, chicken droppings,
3,000 sq. meters rice field, calamansi, pineapple, fruit trees and
different variety of vegetables.
Mr. Ramon Uy, owner of RU Foundry & Machine Shop Corp. in
Bacolod City is a new convert of organic farming. He was requested
by Mr. Jose ”Bachoy” Henares to repaid his imported shredder.
Because of the encounter, RU Foundry is now manufacturing his
own version of shredders for groups of farmers and local government
units converting their organic waste in public markets into organic
fertilizers. Mr. Uy realized that agriculture and industry have to
progress together to support one another. He himself is now engage
in vermi-composting and organic gardening. He also set up a model
organic farm at Bago City with a partner to showcase how integrated
organic gardening. It can be adopted by small farmers and earn more.
Mr. Ramon Uy is willing to teach farmers and LGU sponsored
groups and learn how they can produce their own fertilizer without
relying so much on imported chemical fertilizers whose price is
going up beyond the purchasing power of most Filipino farmers.
Mr. Uy observed that using chemical fertilizers may be cost
effective at first, in the long run the cost increases because the soil
gets depleted (as friendly microorganisms are eliminated) so more
and more fertilizer will be needed. On the other hand, the application
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of organic fertilizer may progress slowly, but the cost of production
will decrease and soil productivity increases as the years go by.
Lina Adoracion, a retired teacher at Malungon, Sarangani
Province grow organic rice, banana and other crops. She produces
superior quality rice seeds. Their organic rice sell more than rice
grown conventionally with chemical fertilizer and pesticide spray.
She finds the farm environment healthy as she makes more money
selling organic crops.
Rue R. Ramas, Manager and proprietress of SEED WORLD in
Gen. Santos City grows organic vegetable in here demo vegetable
garden. She introduces the use of compost fertilizer and pro-biotic to
counter pathogens. Rue have been conducting trainings and seminars
on organic farming in cooperation with LGUs, NGOs and interested
farmer groups.
Mr. Pat Acosta, a Horticulturist and Businessman has been
growing strawberry for the last 12 years. He now grow different
variety of lettuce in his 3,000 sq. meter greenhouse farm at Lamtang,
La Trinidad, Benguet. Pat is one of the pioneering organic farming
practitioners. He has a shredder and compost pile, designed to turn
shredded plant residue into organic humus. He uses this material in
growing his vegetables. He uses probiotics and enzymes to speed up
raw materials. Pat says, he work his land the natural way as his
Master, the Lord God wishes.
ORGANIC BANANA GROWING
Carlos Impang, a Latundan Banana farmer at Talaytay, Publacion
Malungon, Sarangani Provice has this to share. His farm is 3 hectares
planted to Latundan Banana at a distance of 3 x 6 meters. He
practices clean culture, with the weeds and banana leaves left to
decompose in between hills. He uses organic mulch and organic
waste as his fertilizer. He does not spray chemicals or bagging of
bunches as done with Lacatan and Cavendish banana growing. He
prunes off diseased leaves and brack to prevent spread of fungal
diseases.
It takes 10 t0 12 months from planting to flowering. Fruit
emergence takes 14 to 16 days, and 2.5 months from flower
emergence to fruit maturity and harvest.
He maintains 2 to 3 suckers per hill at different stages of growth.
Excess suckers are removed to concentrate nutrient to fruit
development. Provide good drainage and aeration to keep the plants
dry with maximum sunlight exposure. Soil moisture is maintained
with the mulching. He does not plow to avoid damaging roots that
will serve as entry point of diseases.
The average production is 10 to 35 kilos per bunch. He markets
at the local Public Market of Malungon at P10.00 per kilo whole sale
to retailers. He has a weekly harvest of 100 to 130 kilos from ¾
hectare. He is expanding his area to 6 hectares. He observed that his
yield increases during the rainy season and drops during summer
months.
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Replant after 3 to 5 years with 1 year rest or planted to legume
crops. It is a good practice to rest the land for one year and allow the
growth of natural vegetation and microorganisms that help
decompose and turn plant residue and convert them to organic
fertilizer and readily available plant nutrients.
ORGANIC FISH CULTURE
Inland fish culture has been originally practiced in lakes and
ponds the natural way. They just building the pond and allow fish to
live, tribe and grow. As new technology are introduced, many
fishpond operators were feeding the fish with ready mixed and
milled commercial fish feeds. They also use chemical fertilizers to
induce growth of algae fish food. Aerators are used to help introduce
oxygen into the waters as heavy pollution depletes the air in water.
Loven Vilches of Sibunag, Guimaras started using 1 ton organic
fertilizer per hectare of fishpond instead of chemical fertilizer. They
decompose the organic fertilizer (chicken droppings) with pro-biotic
or beneficial microorganism. It takes 3 weeks from treatment of
bacteria before the organic fertilizer is applied on the pond. After a
few days the pond is filled with water and side dressed with liquid
algal booster. His harvest increased by 25%. He uses fingerlings
caught from the wild and limits fry population so as not to over stock
the pond. The biological fish culture technology was introduced by
Aidine Galvan of Growbio Farming System of Bacolod City.
Bangus is harvested in 2.5 months instead of the usual 3 months.
The fish size are 4 pieces to a kilo. After harvest, there is rich algae
supply in the pond, that there was no need to add fish feed. There is
no need for another month pond preparation for the next cropping.
15 days is enough. They add more pro-biotic bacteria for enzymes to
continue the production of fish food. The dead algae, fish litter and
other organic waste in the pond are converted into nutrients by the
enzymes and become fish food again. It is recycling waste.
HERBAL PLANTS
Plants were created for animals. While we also use them for plant
nutrition and protection, they are more used as food and medication
to keep man and animals healthy productive and have a long life.
Here is one. (A bonus to our readers)
HYDROCELLA ASISTICA or CENTELLA
Common name – Gotu Kola, Payong-payong, Takip-kuhol
It is referred to as Indian Ginseng. Another variety is Koto Kola.
“Two leaves a day keeps sickness and old age away”
Herbalist calls Gotu Kola as the finest herbal tunic.
The leaves appear to act as brain food. 2-3 leaves a day eaten raw
strengthen worn out body tissues and the brain to a remarkable
degree.
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1. It prevents Brain fatigue and nervous breakdown. Two to
three leaves a day will keep old age away provided that the
body is exposed to the sun for a time being for each day.
1. It cures the nervous and mental problems, heart problems,
age spots, and thyroid stimulant.
1. It improves skin and relieves skin problems, leprosy,
tuberculosis, and venereal diseases.
1. It assists in healing depressions, impotence, and menopausal
problems.
1. It also serves as an aphrodisiac.
The Indians use the plant as a diuretic to remove excess fluid from
the body and stimulate stimulants to the kidney and bladder as a
blood purifier.
Gotu kola has also been used as cancer treatment, and herb used by
Jason Winters as told in his story in his inspiring book “KILLING
CANCER” that is usually available in health and food shop.
Because Gotu Kola (Hydrocella asistica) is an Asian herb, it is
not mentioned in European herbals, as they do not grow naturally
there.
It was renowned Chinese herbalist PROF. LI CHANG YUN,
who lived to the age of 256 years as a user of that herb that awoke
the Western World as to its value. He was born on 1677 and in 1933
the New York Times announced the death of the remarkable oriental
whose life span had reach over two and a half-century. The Chinese
government officially recorded his age. At 260 years of age Prof.
Yun still gave courses of lectures (Its lecture lasting 3 hours) on
longevity at the Chinese University. Those who saw him declared
that he did not appear older than a man of 72 did. He stood erect and
strong and had his own natural hair and teeth.
After Li Chung”s death, the French government has done
extensive studies. They found out that there is unknown vitamin that
they called Vitamin Y for the youth vitamin because it was found to
have a beneficial effect on the brain and endocrine glands.
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Another French Bio-Chemist Jules Lepino who undertook
extensive researches of the plant and found out that it had a rare tonic
properties that had marked energizing effect on the nerves and brain
cells to keep them functioning well.
Many people who took Gotu Kola daily tell how they no longer
feel brain fatigue. Their memory is strengthened and a feeling of
mental and physical well being and energy had been experienced. It
is considered as brain food.
The lady who took the herbal for six weeks said that she did not
feel fatigue despite heavy schedule and she was more relax and her
arthritic pain gone. For years she had not been able to take the ring
off her finger because of arthritis. But after taking the herb for
several weeks, she was able to remove her ring again.
Recently a lady from Brisbane came to pick up her friend who
has been sick and also troubled with high blood pressure. She started
taking the herb. In her next checkup, the doctor took her pressure
three times as he could not believe that her blood pressure for ten
years normalized due to her taking Gotu Kola daily with in two
weeks.
Goto kola (Hydrocella asistica) can be eaten straight from the
plant or added to salad or chopped as a last minute garnish or meal
like parsley. It has a slight bitter flavor. The leaves can be used as
fresh or died for iced fruit juice sweetened with honey.
But do not over eat. It may result to headache, dizziness, or too
much energy and sleeplessness at bedtime.
Gotu kola is a rich source of chlorophyll, Vitamins A, B, C, D, K
and particularly minerals and magnesium. The plant is easy to grow
and adapts in most soils.
A 95 years old lady in wheel chair at the General Santos City
Home for the Aged has now left her wheel chair after
eating Hydrocella asistica for two months. She was suffering from
sever Arthritis with high blood and diabetes. Now she can walk and
move around with a cane. Soon she says, even the cane may no
longer be needed as she feels progressively getting stronger and
active. Other old folks in the home for the aged also say their health
and strength are improving as they daily eat fresh Hydrocella asistica
leaves. They claim that three (3) leaves a day is enough. Too many
intakes cause headaches to some. It tastes pleasantly bitter when
chewed fine and juicy.
The plant is a soft tender crawling vine with roots and a leaf at
every node. Hydrocella asistica leaves are shaped like umbrella with
al long pistil. They grow well on moist soil partly shaded areas. It is
fast growing, ideal to replace noxious weeds between fruit trees in
orchard farms. It appears to help enrich the soil as green manure
plant.
Planting materials are now available in tray pot.
Contact Marietta H. Rivera at 30 Lapu Lapu St., General Santos
City.
Tel (083) 301-0117
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=================================================
=========================================
There are more Natural and Organic and Biological Farming
systems that have not yet been included in this manuscript. This
technology we have just presented are sufficient for beginners,
farmers and enthusiasts to start on the road on natural farming and
producing safe and healthful food crops. We suggest that our readers
embark on your own research, study, trials and readings to learn
more and be a part of a new movement of environmental and
ecology friendly farming.
The new movement hopes to bring back the birds of the air, frogs
and reptiles on the land, and fishes of the waters and streams that
disappear because of the unrestricted use of toxic chemicals in
agriculture. The lost bio ecological balance and diversity of nature
will be back with the rich fertile soils that can sustain crop
production and renew the face of the earth nearer to its primal
origin.
Let us study and learn natural laws for they are God’s laws that will
help us farm the natural ways. In the process, we will be producing
safe, healthful food while protecting the environment, sustaining
balance ecosystem and preserving bio-diversity in our farms. Good
luck and happy productive Natural Farming.
ACKNOWLEGEMENT
The lifetime works, research, and studies of Pedro D.
Sangatanan, BSA, MSc. And Ronel L. Sangatanan, BSA, MAgr.
They have been an inspiration in promoting organic farming to the
Filipino farmers, and help produce safe and healthful organically
grown food at lower cost and self-sustaining natural farming
system.
Mr. Zac B. Sarian, Editor of Agriculture Monthly Magazine, who
has a wide source of information on agricultural technology, and has
been unselfish in sharing them to help fast tract the development of
several Philippine agricultural industries and ventures.
Miss Lina Adoracion a retired teacher now a full time farmers
adopting the Masikap way of natural and organic farming at her
Malungon farms. She produces organically grown rice and fruits.
Ms. Rue R. Ramas, proprietor of Seed World and currently busy
educating and conducting training’s on organic farming with the use
of pro-biotic. Her demo-vegetable crops are organically grown.
SEED WORLD, V.G. Rivera Farm, Nat. Hwy. Lagao. General
Santos City. Telex. 083-302-0444, Tel. 083-302-0456 Cell: 0917-
951-5364)
Mr. Antonio “Toto” Marin III, Pathologist and practicing farmer.
He is an advocate of organic and biotechnology who makes his own
researches and studies which he shares with farmers in seminars and
training. Cell No. 0918-329-2033.
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To the farmers who encourage this writer to continue improving
and promoting this manuscript to help and guide them in returning to
natural farming.
The Department of Trade and Industry (DTI) Region 12 Who
facilitated the early printing and reproduction of this manuscript, and
conducted special forum to launch the handbook on Natural Farming
on October 21, 2004 at Koronadal City.
Government and none government agencies and educational
institution supporting this trust and development of natural farming
to include: DA-ATI, FPA, DTI, DOST, GENSAFCO, MINFRUIT,
GEM, MSU-GSC, USM-KABACAN, UDP.
Tanah Yang Subur
By عبدالرحمن on Friday, 15 June 2012 at 10:18 محمد
Question: Is there anything I can do to loosen up the clay soil in my
front lawn? When it rains, it has the consistency of pottery clay, but
when it stops raining, it dries out quickly. I have been in this house
for seven years and aerated once. Any suggestions?
Answer: All of the organic amendments directly or indirectly help
loosen and soften the soil. The key to friable, productive soil is
abundant life in the soil. When the soil is healthy by being rich with
biological activity, it will not erode or compact during rains, it will
hold moisture at just the right level - thus cutting water costs, and it
will create excellent crop production. Healthy soil contains
significant microbiotic life. The microbes create organic matter that
helps build the glue in the soil that creates the texture that allows
rain and irrigation to soak in, oxygen to breathe in and carbon
dioxide to breathe out.
Use this thought model. Before choosing a product to use on your
property ask this: if I purchase and use this product, will it help or
hurt the life in the soil? When the beneficial bacteria, fungi,
protozoa, insects, earthworms and others are healthy, growing, and
reproducing, the soil's chemistry, biology and structure will be soft,
crumbly and productive.
Best for Soil Health
Compost and organic fertilizers
Rock minerals - lava, granite
greensand, zeolite, gypsum, etc.
Sugars – molasses, cornmeal, etc.
Mulch covering all bare soil
Infrequent deep irrigation when needed.
Worst for Soil Health
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High-nitrogen, synthetic fertilizers
Toxic pesticide
Bare soil
Excessive tilling (rotor)
Foot and vehicle traffic
Overwatering and frequent light watering
Nutrients
By Izam Ijam on Monday, 23 May 2011 at 23:35
Primary Nutrients: Nitrogen (N) N > 10ppm Pre-plant N generates
vigorous seedling growth, which ensures a
well-branched plant by the first fruit set. Pre-plant N is not needed if
a soil test shows the soil has 20ppm nitrate or more Broadcast 20-
30lbsN/ac before discing of N is needed, otherwise, band N
(2-5lbs/ac) 3-4 inches below the seed. Apply a steady supply of N to
the plant during first set to produce greater yields. While plants
develop first fruits, analyze plant tissue samples to keep nitrate
concentration in the plant stem and petiole between 7000-8000ppm.
High N rates may depress total yields, delaying crop maturity and
decrease the proportion of red pods.
Symptoms of Nitrogen DeficiencySlow growth; stuntingYellow-
green color (chlorosis)"Firing" of tips and
margins of leaves beginning with more mature leaves. hPhosphorus
(P) N > 30ppm Helps young seedling grow,
especially when soil warms in spring. Not needed if levels of soil P
are between medium and medium-low. Add 50-100lbs P2O5/ac
before discing of levels are lower. Alternatively, band 30lbs P2O5/ac
3-4 inches below the seed. P increases total yield and increases the
proportion of red pods. Important for good root development and
fruit production.
Symptoms of Phosphorus DeficiencySlow growth; stunting.Purplish
coloration on foliage of some plants.Dark
green coloration with tips of leaves dying.Delayed maturityPoor fruit
or seed development.
Potassium (K) N > 150ppm Encourages root growth and increases
plant resistance to disease. Increases size
and quality of fruit and vegetables and increases winter hardiness. It
is mobile in the plant Fertilizer form is K2O
Symptoms of Potassium DeficiencyTip and margin "burn" starting
on more mature leaves.Weak stalks, plants
lodge easily.Small fruits or shriveled seed.Slow growth. Secondary
Nutrients: Calcium (Ca) A
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structural nutrient, it is an essential part in all walls and membranes
and must be present for the formation of new cells.
-Non-mobile in plant tissue Symptoms of Calcium Deficiency "Tip
burn" of young leaves-celery, lettuce, cabbage. Death of growing
points (terminal buds). Root tips also affected. Abnormal dark green
appearance of foliage.
Premature shedding of blossoms and buds. Weakened stems. Water-
soaked, discolored areas on fruitsblossom-
end rot of peppers.
Magnesium (Mg) Essential for photosynthesis. Serves as an activator
for many plant enzymes required in growth
process.
-Mobile within the plant and can be readily translocated from older
to younger tissue. Symptoms of Magnesium
Deficiency Interveinal chlorosis in older leaves. Curling of leaves
upward along margins.
Sulfur (S) A constituent of three amino acids (cystine, methionine,
cysteine), therefore essential for protein synthesis.
Symptoms of Sulfur Deficiency Young leaves light green to
yellowish color. Small and spindly plants. Retarded
growth rate and delayed maturity. Micronutrients: Even though they
used by plants in very small amounts, they
are just as essential for plant growth as the larger amounts of primary
and secondary nutrients. Care must be exercised in the use of
micronutrients, since the difference between deficient and toxic
levels if often small. Micronutrients should not be applied as a
ÒshotgunÓ application to cover possible deficiencies. They should
be applied only when the need has been demonstrated. Zinc (Zn) An
essential constituent of several important enzyme systems. Controls
the synthesis of indoleacetic acid (IAA), an important plant growth
regulator. Symptoms of Zinc Deficiency Decrease in stem
length and a rosetteing of terminal leaves. Reduced fruit bud
formation. Mottled leaves (interveinal chlorosis).
Iron (Fe) Required for the formation of chlorophyll in plant cells.
Serves as an activator for biochemical processes
such as respiration, photosynthesis, and symbiotic nitrogen fixation.
Symptoms of Iron Deficiency Interveinal
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chlorosis of young leaves. Veins remain green except in severe
cases.
Manganese (Mn) Serves as an activator for enzymes in growth
processes. Assist Fe in chlorophyll formation. High
Mn concentration may induce Fe deficiency. Symptoms of
Manganese Deficiency Interveinal chlorosis of young
leaves. Gradation of pale green coloration with darker color next to
veins. No sharp distinction between veins and interveinal areas as
with Fe deficiency.
Copper (Cu) An activator of several enzymes. May play a role in
vitamin A production. A deficiency interferes with protein synthesis.
Symptoms of Copper Deficiency Stunted growth. Poor pigmentation.
Wilting and
eventual death of leaf tips.
Boron (B) Functions in plants in differentiation of meristem cells.
With B deficiency, cells may continue to divide, but structural
components are not differentiated. Also, apparently regulates
metabolism of carbohydrates in plants. Once assimilated, B is not
remobilized in plants, and a continuous supply is necessary at all
growing points. Deficiency is first found in the youngest tissue of
the plant. Symptoms of Boron Deficiency Death of terminal growth,
causing lateral buds to develop and producing a ÒwitchesÕ-broomÓ
effect. Thickened, curled, wilted, and chlorotic leaves. Reduced
flowering or improper pollination.
Molybdenum (Mo) Required by plants for utilization of nitrogen.
Plants cannot transform nitrate nitrogen into amino acids with Mo.
Symptoms of Molybdenum Deficiency Stunting and lack of vigor.
Marginal scorching and
cupping or rolling of leaves.Chlorine (Cl) Required in photosynthetic
reactions in plants. Deficiency is very rare due to its universal
presence in nature. Symptoms of Chlorine Deficiency Wilting
followed by chlorosis. Excessive
branching of lateral roots. Bronzing of leaves. Chlorosis and
necrosis.
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