Upload
robertus-ronald
View
79
Download
2
Embed Size (px)
Citation preview
EmbroideryMaterial, Technique and production @bout
Created by Robertus Ronald@2015
OverviewHal-hal yang perlu diperhatikan untuk mencapai hasil
embroidery yang MAXIMAL (sesuai REQUEST secara MUTU & WAKTU ) sbb:
Material yang sesuai Embroidery Technique yang tepat Standard Finishing Production Plan yang sesuai waktu pengerjaan
Created by Robertus Ronald@2015
MATERIALFABRIC - stability fabric untuk pengerjaan di mesin embroidery
BENANG – ukuran benang yg sesuai dan warna yg matching sesuai REQUEST
INTERLINING/TOPPING – jenis dan ketebalan interlining dan topping yg sesuai untuk mensupport stability fabric dan hasil embroidery
JARUM – ukuran jarum yg tepat untuk mendapatkan hasil embroidery yang maximal
Created by Robertus Ronald@2015
MATERIAL - FABRICKONSEP DASAR : FABRIC di stabilkan dari pergerakan mesin dan penetrasi
Jarum, untuk mencapai hasil embroidery yg maximal.
ANALISA FABRIC Thickness
Soft Medium Hard
Strech LevelHasil Analisa menentukan Technique punching, jenis jarum, dan
terutama jenis interlining/topping yang akan digunakan.
Created by Robertus Ronald@2015
MATERIAL – BENANG(1)
KONSEP DASAR : Menggunakan Jenis, Ukuran, dan Warna benang yg sesuai untuk hasil embroidery maximal.Jenis & Ukuran Benang
Embroidery Thread (Trilobal Polyester dan Viscose Rayon) Size standard 120 d/2 (tex 27)
Sewing Thread (Staple Spun Polyester) Size :
Size 60/2(tex 18) Size 40/2 (tex 27) Size 20/2 (tex 80)
Created by Robertus Ronald@2015
MATERIAL – BENANG(2)
Special Thread Metallic Thread Wooly / Acrylic Thread Core spun Thread
Poly Poly Corespun Poly Cotton Corespun
Cotton Thread Filament Transparent thread Elastic Thread
Created by Robertus Ronald@2015
MATERIAL – BENANG(3)
Warna Benang , sangat subjective tergantung kondisi dan persepsi, perlu di set condition yang sama dalam review agar persepsi dapat sama.
Viewing condition Background (paling netral – Grey) Light source
D65 – Day light TL 84 – Room Light CWF – cool White Incandescent UV Light
Created by Robertus Ronald@2015
MATERIAL – BENANG(4)
Color Direction Darker Lighter Reddish Bluish Yellowish Greenish
Created by Robertus Ronald@2015
MATERIAL – Interlining/Topping(1)
KONSEP DASAR : Menggunakan jenis dan ketebalan interlining dan topping yang sesuai untuk mensupport stability fabric dan hasil embroidery yang maximal
Jenis Interlining Tear Away Cut Away Water Soluble Heat Away
Ketebalan Interlining 20 gram 50 gram
Created by Robertus Ronald@2015
MATERIAL – Interlining/Topping(2)
Jenis Topping Plastic Mika Kertas lilin Water Solluble Plastic biasa EVA
Fungsi lain topping : Untuk menambah ketebalan embroidery (EVA) - Technique Untuk menahan fabric agar tidak loop up (bagian belakang fabric tertarik ke atas krn
tarikan jarum – sering terjadi di fabric terry)
Created by Robertus Ronald@2015
MATERIAL – JarumKONSEP DASAR: menggunakan ukuran dan point form jarum yg tepat untuk
menghasilkan embroidery yang maximal
Thread Size >< Needle Size Size 60/2(tex 18/TKT 180) >< Nm : 65-75 (size 9-11) Size 40/2 (tex 27/TKT 120) >< Nm : 75-90 (size 11-14) Size 20/2 (tex 80/TKT 30) >< Nm : 110-130 (size 18-21)
Point Needle Normal Round Point (R) – Densely woven/ microfibre Light Ballpoint (SES) – fine knitwear *Medium Ball point (SUK) – leather, knitwear, jersey, woven, denim, terry towelling Acute Round Point (SPI) – Silk,
Created by Robertus Ronald@2015
Embroidery TechniqueKONSEP DASAR : menggunakan stitch formation (punching), placement
technique dan machine capability yang sesuai untuk menghasilkan embroidery yg sesuai REQUEST.
Regular Stitch FormationSpecial Technique* Chenille* SequinOther Technique with Special Machine
Created by Robertus Ronald@2015
Embroidery Technique *** Regular Stitch Formation Satin Stitch
Created by Robertus Ronald@2015
Embroidery Technique *** Regular Stitch Formation Tatami Stitch
Created by Robertus Ronald@2015
Embroidery Technique *** Regular Stitch Formation
Running Stitch
Created by Robertus Ronald@2015
Embroidery Technique *** Regular Stitch Formation
ZigZag Stitch
Created by Robertus Ronald@2015
Embroidery Technique *** Regular Stitch Formation Motif Chain Stitch
Created by Robertus Ronald@2015
Embroidery Technique *** Special Technique ‘(1)
Puff 3D EmbroideryApplique and Reverse AppliqueBlanket StitchPatches / EmblemDanglesMotif SmockingMotif Quilting
Created by Robertus Ronald@2015
Embroidery Technique *** Chenille
Embroidery Technique *** Sequin
Embroidery Technique *** Other Technique, with special Machine
Cornelly / CordingPintuckSmockingFagottingShiftlyQuilting
Created by Robertus Ronald@2015
Standard FinishingMembersihkan Interlining dan ToppingMembersihkan dari benang jumping (trimming)
* locking thread standard : 3mm
Created by Robertus Ronald@2015
Production @boutKONSEP DASAR : perhitungan dasar untuk menghitung waktu yang
dibutuhkan untuk menyelesaikan artwork yg akan dikerjakan, untuk output yang sesuai dengan target waktu
Komponen perhitungan Artwork Stitch count Jumlah applique (1 pcs applique = 1.000 stitch) Speed machine (std 15.000 st/jam – termasuk finishing time) Jumlah head / mc Mc operation/day (in hour) Order qty Mc alokasi
Created by Robertus Ronald@2015
Contoh perhitungan (Perhitungan ini sudah termasuk finishing & QC time.)
Artwork stitch : 6300 stitch + 1 applique = 7300 stitch Est Lama pengerjaan per pcs : 7.300st : 15.000 st/jam = 29 menit/pcs/mc head = +2 pcs/jam/ mc head
jumlah kepala mc : 20 head (= 40 pcs/jam/mc)
m/c operation per hari : 21 jam (3 shift/hari @7 jam)
Estimasi output per hari = 420 pcs/day
• Total qty order : 22.000 pcs• Mc alokasi : 3 mc (output per hari = 420 pcs/hari/mc x 3 mc = 1.260 pcs/hari)• Total hari u finish production : 22.000 pcs / 1260 pcs = 18 hari
Created by Robertus Ronald@2015