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Performance garment / Sportswear design and evaluation

功能性运动服装的设计与性能检测

Dr. Junyan Dr. Junyan Hu Hu Senior research fellowSenior research fellow胡军岩胡军岩 高级研究员高级研究员

Tel: 852 27664206， Fax: 852 27731432Email: tcjxhu@polyu.edu.hk

ITC, The ITC, The HKPolyUHKPolyU香港理工大学纺织制衣系香港理工大学纺织制衣系

Content内容

• Lab Introduction 实验室介绍

• Performance Garment design功能服装的设计

• THERMAL SIMULATION计算机模拟热湿傳遞功能

• Fabric Functional Properties Characterization织物功能面料特性检测

• Physiological influence of Functional Material功能材料的生理影響

• Summary 结语

1. Bio‐functional Textile Research lab生物功能纺织品研究室

ITF Research Projects 创新基金资助项目

高性能運動服與裝置

High‐Performance Sportswear and Devices (ITP/014/08TP)

Heat production within active muscle and its transfer to skin and sportswear运动肌产热及其在皮肤和运动服装间的传递

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Physiological Wear Trials生理测试

Competition wear HPRW

Physiological study of cycling wear自行車服的生理效應研究

CommercialHPCW

Cooperate with Hong Kong elite athletes

與香港精英運動員們的合作

日期: 09.08.2008 運動: 划艇

活動: 2008 北京奧運會

Photo took on 2nd Dec, 2009 at train center (Rowing)

http://www.hkolympic.org/imagecatalogue/c_popup_photo_gallery/3635

EAG 2009 Hong KongSource: http://2009eagarchive.lcsd.gov.hk/tc/news/gallery.php?catid=160

Hong Kong elite athletes in HPSWOlympic Game 2008

http://www.daylife.com/photo/08vx9cDf8OffW

2. Performance Garment design功能服装的设计

‐Requirements 消費者需求

• A safe product

• An environmentally friendly product

• A sustainable product

Collaboration of Technology and Fashion

科技與時尚的結合

• A sustainable product

•A comfort product

Clothing system 服裝系統 Radiation

Convection

Cond

uctio

n

Radiation

Convection

Cond

uctio

n

Human BodyPhysiological

Clothing System

EnvironmentalPst

Thermal & Moisture exchange

Ph i l

Human BodyPhysiological

Clothing System

EnvironmentalPst

Thermal & Moisture exchange

Ph i l

Brain

Individual Psychological Perception

Overall Comfort

Physiological Reactions:

•Shivering•Voluntary exercise•Sweating•… Body

Environmental Condition

Physical tim

uli

Physical stimuli

Physiological process

Decoding stimuli

Neuropsychological Process

Physical process

Psychological Process

Brain

Individual Psychological Perception

Overall Comfort

Physiological Reactions:

•Shivering•Voluntary exercise•Sweating•… Body

Environmental Condition

Physical tim

uli

Physical stimuli

Physiological process

Decoding stimuli

Neuropsychological Process

Physical process

Psychological Process

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Thermoregulatory control system熱平衡調節系統

The Interaction of Clothing and Thermoregulation, George Havenith, Human Thermal Environments Laboratory, Department of Human Sciences, Loughborough University, LE11 3TU

In the aspect of thermal comfort:著裝過程中的熱舒適-Heat losses In a neutral environment

During exercise, these percentages could be reversed.

Source: The skin’s role in human thermoregulation and comfort P. 563

In the aspect of fitness:著裝過程中的體形變化

Key stretch points on the body

Source: Textiles in Sports, P205

Psychological sensory comfort‐ Clothing comfort dimensions

著裝舒適性的生理基礎

TactileTactilePricklePrickleItchItchRoughRoughScratchScratch

Clammy

Clammy

ColdCold

TactileTactilePricklePrickleItchItchRoughRoughScratchScratch

Clammy

Clammy

ColdCold

ThermalThermal--wetwet

PressurePressure

ClaCl

DampDamp

HotHot

ColCol

StickySticky

StiffStiffSoftSoftSnugSnug

SmoothSmoothLooseLoose

ThermalThermal--wetwet

PressurePressure

ClaCl

DampDamp

HotHot

ColCol

StickySticky

StiffStiffSoftSoftSnugSnug

SmoothSmoothLooseLoose

Thermal-wet comfort熱濕舒適性

• Sensations involving temperature and moisturesultry  damp  clingy clammy  hot cold sticky

17

sticky... 

• Thermal receptors

• Transport properties of clothing heat transfermoisture transferair permeability…

Tactile comfort觸覺舒適性

• Direct fabric‐skin mechanical interactions prickly scratchy itchy 

rough  sticky…

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• Pain receptors in skin

• Fabric surface/mechanical properties

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Pressure comfort壓力舒適性

• The space allowance between the body and the garment

• Fabric bulk mechanical behaviours and overall fitness of 

19

garment

• The pressure receptors in skin

• A number of synthetic sensationsloose heavy lightweightsoft  stiff snug…

International Standards for thermal comfort clothing

有關熱舒適的一些國際標準

• ISO 7243, Hot environments — Estimation of the heat stress on working man, based on the WBGT‐index (wet bulb globe temperature)

• ISO 7726, Thermal environments — Instruments and methods for measuring physical quantities

• ISO 7730, Moderate thermal environments —Determination of the PMV and PPD indices and specification of the conditions for thermal comfort

• ISO 8996, Ergonomics — Determination of metabolic heat production

• ISO 7933, Hot environments — Analytical determination and interpretation of thermal stress using calculation of required sweat raterequired sweat rate

• ISO 9886, Evaluation of thermal strain by physiological measurements

• ISO 9920, Ergonomics of the thermal environment — Estimation of the thermal insulation and evaporative resistance of a clothing ensemble

• ISO 10551, Ergonomics of the thermal environment — Assessment of the influence of the thermal environment using subjective judgment scales

• ISO/TR 11079, Evaluation of cold environments — Determination of required clothing insulation (IREQ)

• ISO 13732 (all parts), Ergonomics of the thermal environment —Methods for the assessment of human responses to contact with surfaces

• ISO 12894, Ergonomics of the thermal environments —Medical supervision of individuals exposed to extreme hot or cold environments

• ISO 13731, Ergonomics of the thermal environment — Vocabulary and symbols

Cold environments and people with special requirements

• Working in cold environments– be exposed to severe conditions

• in the home, • during outdoor activities, • sporting activities or • during transportation. 

• Wind chill is commonly encountered in cold climates;y• Low temperatures

• cold stress– climatic conditions under which the body heat exchange is just equal to or too large for 

heat balance at the expense of significant and sometimes uncompensable physiological strain (heat debt)

ISO 11079:2007(E)

• 1 met is 58.15 W/m2.

• A sleeping person has a rate of 0.7 met, and reclining awake is 0.8 met.

• Office work is 1.2 met: a mostly seated activity but one that involves occasional moving about. 

• Walking slowly (0.9 m/s, or 2 mph) is 2 met, moderate walking (1.2 m/s or 2.7 mph) is 2.6 met, and fast walking (1.8 m/s or 4 mph) is 3.8 met (ASHRAE Handbook of Fundamentals, 2005). 

• Swimming ranges from 4 to 8 met, and jogging 8 to 12 met (Brooks et al., 1996). 

• The work efficiency of muscles is about 15%,

Metabolic rates of different activities不同運動條件下的新陳代謝率

The work efficiency of muscles is about 15%, with 85% of total energy released as heat

Source: ISO 8996

Requirements for protection服裝保暖要求

• A method (and international standard) has been proposed that determines the required clothing insulation (IREQ) as a function of ambient climate and activity (ISO/DIS‐11079, 2004).

Exposure time and at different combinations of ambient temperature

Ref: ISO 11079, Metabolic rate 110WM-2

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Cooling power of wind風速的影響

Source: ISO 11079

Problems of in winter clothing冬季服裝系統常見問題

• Insufficient thermal insulation in winter:– chilling of the body – Hypothermia

• frostbite, discomfort, impaired judgment, reduced capacity to work and poorer endurance.

• especially in the hands and forearms, causes deterioration of manual sensitivity and agility.

• harder to memorize and learn new things

• Over protection:– Thick clothing obstruct movement. – Heavy– Sweating, heat stress

• Cold environment come with snow, ice and wind

3.THERMAL SIMULATION计算机模拟热湿傳遞功能

Sweating出汗

•• Insensible evaporative heat lossesInsensible evaporative heat losses– about 100 to 150 ml per day per m2 of skin surface

The maximum sweat rate The maximum sweat rate 

•1liter/hour • an unacclimatized person seldom reaches.

•2–3 liter/hour •a well-acclimatized person

•When evaporated, •removes about ten times the basal body heat production.

(Guyton and Hall, 2000).

Thermal physiological requirements熱生理需求

Running

Thermal Function体表温度分布

Moisture Function 体表水份分布

running

Sweat Dissemination汗液发散区域The Interaction of Clothing and Thermoregulation, George Havenith,

Human Thermal Environments Laboratory, Department of Human Sciences, Loughborough University, LE11 3TU

S-Smart软件

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Computer simulations for biomechanical performances計算機仿真生物力學特性

Fabric important properties織物功能特性

• Stretch– to ensurer clothing doesn't restrict body movement and performance.

• Moisture management– to ensure skin stays dry, thus minimizing:– (a) evaporation from the skin which results in rapid heat and energy loss;– (b) friction between clothing and the body and therefore reduced irritation.

• Waterproofness and breathability• Waterproofness and breathability– for protection from the elements while maintaining a comfortable personal 

microclimate.

• Temperature control– buffering against temperature swings between periods of activity and rest.

• Light weight– to enhance performance and conserve energy as less weight is carried. 

• High strength and durability– to protect the wearer and their clothes.

Pure Cotton Moisture Management Fabric with NanoTechnology 

全棉差別導水織物

Normal pure cotton fabric 全棉面料

Moisture management pure cotton fabric全棉差別導水面料

4. Fabric Functional Properties Characterization织物功能面料特性检测

‐4.1 Evaluation of moisture transfer properties

99

88

Standards makingDesign principle

0 20g

36

0.20g

Influenced by 影响因素:•components of the water水的成份

•water content in the fabric面料中的含水量

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Typical moisture transfer behavior防水/拒水织物

Water Proof / Repellent fabric

慢吸慢干织物Slow absorbing, slow spreading and very poor moisture management fabric

快吸慢干织物快吸慢干织物Quick absorption and poor one-way transport Fabric

快吸快干织物Absorbent and quick dry fabric

较好的液态水动态传递性能织物Good absorbent moisture management fabric

很好的液态水动态传递性能织物Excellent absorbent moisture management fabric

典型織物水傳遞特征

61#

典型織物水傳遞特征

17#

典型織物水傳遞特征

58#

4.2 Fabric Tactile Comfort Tester接触感觉测量

ΔT=10 ˚C

41Y Li, JY Hu, Lubos Hes, Textile Fabric Testing, US. 6,601,457 B2

4.3 Characterization of fabricthermal radiation properties

红外輻射特性测量

1 . 21 . 21 . 21 . 21 . 2

42

0

0 .2

0 .4

0 .6

0 .8

1

1 .2

0 1 2 3 4 5 6

Time(min)

IR intensity(v)

t r 1 t r 2 t r 3

0

0 .2

0 .4

0 .6

0 .8

1

1 .2

0 1 2 3 4 5 6

Time(min)

IR intensity(v)

t r 1 t r 2 t r 3

0

0 . 2

0 . 4

0 . 6

0 . 8

1

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 0

T i m e ( m i n )

IR i

ntensity

(v)

t t 1 t t 2 t t 30

0 . 2

0 . 4

0 . 6

0 . 8

1

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 0

T i m e ( m i n )

IR i

ntensity

(v)

t t 1 t t 2 t t 30

0 . 2

0 . 4

0 . 6

0 . 8

1

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 0

T i m e ( m i n )

IR i

ntensity

(v)

t t 1 t t 2 t t 30

0 . 2

0 . 4

0 . 6

0 . 8

1

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 0

T i m e ( m i n )

IR i

ntensity

(v)

t t 1 t t 2 t t 30

0 . 2

0 . 4

0 . 6

0 . 8

1

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 0

T i m e ( m i n )

IR i

ntensity

(v)

t t 1 t t 2 t t 3

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4.4 Characterization of fabric thermal and moisture transfer properties

織物的動態熱濕傳遞特性

Fan J and Y S Chen Measurement

43

Fan, J. and Y.S. Chen,. Measurement Science Technology, 2002. 13: p.

1115-1123.

Stan, a thermal manikin at Kansas State University, is used to measure the insulation provided by cold weather clothing.http://www.astm.org/SNEWS/SO_2009/f2360_so09.html

Typical measurement results on the skin surface

M easurem ents on Skin Surface

100

120

140

160

180

200

%),

Hea

tflux

W/m

^2

1120

1130

1140

1150

skin

mod

el (g

)

t1 t2 t3 t4 t5

M easurem ents on Skin Surface

100

120

140

160

180

200

%),

Hea

tflux

W/m

^2

1120

1130

1140

1150

skin

mod

el (g

)

t1 t2 t3 t4 t5

W e igh t

H ea t flu x

M easurem ents on Skin Surface

100

120

140

160

180

200

%),

Hea

tflux

W/m

^2

1120

1130

1140

1150

skin

mod

el (g

)

t1 t2 t3 t4 t5

M easurem ents on Skin Surface

100

120

140

160

180

200

%),

Hea

tflux

W/m

^2

1120

1130

1140

1150

skin

mod

el (g

)

t1 t2 t3 t4 t5

W e igh t

H ea t flu x

44

0

20

40

60

80

100

0 5000 10000 15000 200 00 25000 3000 0 3 5000

Tim e (s)

Tem

pera

ture

(℃

), RH

(%

1080

1090

1100

1110

R Hs Ts H Fs w eight

Wei

ght c

hang

e of

0

20

40

60

80

100

0 5000 10000 15000 200 00 25000 3000 0 3 5000

Tim e (s)

Tem

pera

ture

(℃

), RH

(%

1080

1090

1100

1110

R Hs Ts H Fs w eight

Wei

ght c

hang

e of

R H

Te m pera ture

0

20

40

60

80

100

0 5000 10000 15000 200 00 25000 3000 0 3 5000

Tim e (s)

Tem

pera

ture

(℃

), RH

(%

1080

1090

1100

1110

R Hs Ts H Fs w eight

Wei

ght c

hang

e of

0

20

40

60

80

100

0 5000 10000 15000 200 00 25000 3000 0 3 5000

Tim e (s)

Tem

pera

ture

(℃

), RH

(%

1080

1090

1100

1110

R Hs Ts H Fs w eight

Wei

ght c

hang

e of

R H

Te m pera ture

1. Dynamic contact process; 2. Insensitive perspiration steady state;

3. Dynamic sweating process; 4. Dynamic wetting process;

5. Steady wetted state; 6. Drying process

1hr 3hr 6hr

Typical measurement results on the fabric bottom surface

Mrasurements on Fbaric Bottom Surface

85

95

105

1130

1140

1150

g)

RH

Weight

Mrasurements on Fbaric Bottom Surface

85

95

105

1130

1140

1150

g)

RH

Weight

45

15

25

35

45

55

65

75

0 5000 10000 15000 20000 25000 30000 35000

Time (s)

Tem

pera

ture

(℃

), RH

(%)

1080

1090

1100

1110

1120

1130

RHfb1 Tfb1 weight

Wei

ght c

hang

e of

skin

mod

el (g

Temperature

15

25

35

45

55

65

75

0 5000 10000 15000 20000 25000 30000 35000

Time (s)

Tem

pera

ture

(℃

), RH

(%)

1080

1090

1100

1110

1120

1130

RHfb1 Tfb1 weight

Wei

ght c

hang

e of

skin

mod

el (g

Temperature

Typical measurement results on the fabric upper surface

Measurements on Fabric Upper Surface

100

120

1130

1140

1150

(g)

Weight

Measurements on Fabric Upper Surface

100

120

1130

1140

1150

(g)

Weight

46

0

20

40

60

80

0 5000 10000 15000 20000 25000 30000 35000

Time (s)

Tem

pera

ture

(℃

) RH

(5)

1080

1090

1100

1110

1120

1130

RHfu1 Tfu1 weight

Wei

ght c

hang

e of

ski

n m

odel

(

RH

Temperature

0

20

40

60

80

0 5000 10000 15000 20000 25000 30000 35000

Time (s)

Tem

pera

ture

(℃

) RH

(5)

1080

1090

1100

1110

1120

1130

RHfu1 Tfu1 weight

Wei

ght c

hang

e of

ski

n m

odel

(

RH

Temperature

5. Physiological influence of Functional Material

功能材料的生理影響

Wear Trials穿著試驗

Effect of Phase Change Material of Energy Consumption of Clothing Assembly

Skin

33 ℃Environment

-15 ℃ Layer-3

Layer-4Environment temperature: -15℃

NonwovenPolyester

The Second Layer

WaterproofBreathable

FabricCotton

48

Structure of the clothing assembly Sensor location

Layer-1

Layer-2

Skin temperature33℃ Humidity Sensor

Temperature Sensor

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5.00

10.00

15.00

20.00

25.00

30.00

35.00

Temp

erat

ure(

℃)

the clothing assembly A

the clothing assembly C

Dew point25.5℃

IW_CLW_CWV_C

49

-15.00

-10.00

-5.00

0.00

0.00 5.00 10.00 15.00 20.00 25.00

Thickness(mm)

T

DL2

Di1

DL1

Di2 IW_ALW_AWV_A Frozen point0℃

Comparison of temperature distributions in clothing assemblies A(Nonwoven fabric + conductive fabric without heating) and C (Nonwoven fabric + conductive fabric with heating)

Bronze award at IENA 2006

• Bronze award at IENA 2006, ITPC – Intelligent Thermal Protective Clothing System, 2‐5 Nov‐2006, Nuremberg, Germany

Correlations between OMMC and clammy綜合水份管理特性與濕粘感覺間的關係

Correlations between OMMC and dampness綜合水份管理特性與潮濕感覺間的關係

IR images analysis實驗二: 紅外圖像分析

Experimental Protocol 

• Environment 环境条件:–Temperature: 33ºC–RH:                 40%

–IR camera 红外摄像机: Nikon Laird S‐270–Physical exercise Rate 运动强度 4miles/ hr 英里/小时

• Special designed T shirt (left part is knitted MMF, right part is normal pure cotton knitted fabric with same structure.) 特殊设计的T恤 (左半部为针织液态水管理面料,右半部为相同结构的全棉普通针织面料)

Results結果Stage one: Running at 4 miles/hr第一階段:以4 英里/小時速度跑步

MMF Normal MMF Normal MMF Normal•Warm liquid arrive out surface

•No evaporation

Time时间 (min分钟)0 8 28

Beginning开始

began to sweat开始出汗

Heavy sweating出大汗

•More area of evaporation

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Result 结果(2)Stage two: Standing rest after 30 minutes running第二階段:跑步30分鐘後,立停休息

MMF Normal MMF NormalDry & Warm

Time 时间(min分钟)

75 85

45 55 (rest)

Damp, Cold

Results (3)Skin temperature distribution when take off shirt after 80 minutes rest

休息80分鐘後,除下T恤後皮膚表面的溫度分佈情況

Dry & Warm

Back view at take off shirt

刚除下T恤

Back view after 70 seconds除下T恤70秒后

Damp, Cold

Summary 结语

• Collaboration of  Technology and Fashion科技與時尚的結合

– Clothing system design服装系统性设计– 服装系统性设计

• Comfort requirement– 舒适性的需求

Contact information联系方法

Contact information联系方法

Dr. Junyan HU胡军岩 博士，高级研究员

MN104, 香港理工大学纺织制衣学系MN104, Institute of Textiles and Clothing

胡军岩 博士，高级研究员

Tel: 852 27664206

Fax: 852 27731432

Email: tcjxhu@polyu.edu.hk

Acknowledgement

致谢

We would like to thank HK Innovation Technology Commission and HKPOLYU for the funding of this research through projects

ITS‐051‐02, ITP‐001‐07TP and ITP‐031‐08TP