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sapphires, and if so. at what m^ nific ation can the)' be

observed? Laboratories perform a very important flinction in

this regard; without their leadership in making scientific deter-

minations on new materials entering the market, we would

have neither the protection nor the confidence in guaranteeing

die integrity of our prod uas.

In summary , treatmen ts have catised confusion in the dis-

tribution of variotis gems. Nattiral-color large, important

gemstones have increased in price, and there continues to be

a price advantage for stones that are simply enhanced by what

the trade considers routine processes (e.g., heat) over those

that are treated by more complex processes. Consumers are

protected by certification. They have more choices, and enjoy

broader pricing options.

Branding Techniques and the Fashion Industry

Eric Braunwart

B rands, and the practice of branding, have been promi-

nent in most industries for years. Brands are meant to

bring a specific company's product to mind in a posi-

tive sense, even if the p rodu ct is identical to one a c om petitor

might be selling as a commodity. The goal is to embed a spe-cific brand name, and the benefits it represents, in the con-

sumer's subconscious. Examples we all know are Band-Aid,

Kleenex, and Escalator. Escalator—now a generic term—is an

example ot what can happen to a brand name whe n the owner

does not support and enforce it.

Branding has been a catchword in the jewelry industry for

a number of years now. As competition has grown, jewelry

companies have developed brands to help their products

stand out from the crowd. For the most part, the brand names

selected (e.g.. Ov ernigh t Settings and Fire Citrine®) are m eant

to tr i^ er a response from the poten tial buyer as to the pro d-

ucts quality, uniqueness, romantic appeal, image of wealth,

ajid so forth. The companies will define the elements they

want to capture in their brand—for instance, fair labor prac-

tices, environmental protection, and cultural appreciation—

and then promo te these elements along with the brand na me.

Remember, almost anything can be branded, but only cer-

tain things can be trademarked or patented. A trademark or

patent in and of itself is not a bra nd. A retail jeweler may w ant

to brajid an image of wealth, exclusivity, friendliness, or your

"friend in the diamond industry." These would constitute ele-

ments of a brand; often the name attached to the brand is

then trademarked as a "touchstone" for the consumer. Retail

jewelers have done this using their own names (e.g.. Tiffany)

for years, as have certain designers.A relatively new development is the branding of specific

gems, such as Seafoam Tourmaline® (see figure) and Grape

Garnet®. Columbia Gem House developed gemstone brands

to denote specific elements, .such as origin, consistency of qual-

ity, commitment to fair trade principles, and romantic associ-

ations with the particular color. Grape Garnet was developed

specifically to avoid the pitfalls of what is now a "ruined"

: rhodolite garnet. Today, any pyrope almandine garnet.

This attractive materialis

sold under the brand nameSeafoam Tourmaline.

no matter what color or origin, is sold as rhodolite. Grape

Garnet is also pyrope almandine, but it is from a single loca-

tion a nd is always a rich "wine" purple color. Th e na me stands

for more than just a chemical structure.

The use of branding will continue to grow in the jewelry

and colored stone industries. It will help define and separate

products in a very overcrowded and somewhat confused mar-

ketplace. It will become even more important as the Intemet

grows in importance for purchasing. People will want to know

what they are buying ajid they will grow to trust—or, if done

poorly, distrust-—certain jewelry brands they see. Brands willalso develop to add targeted emotional responses and benefits.

This is becoming increasingly important as women g-ain more

control over the jewelry dollars spent. Branding, when executed

correcdy, makes the jewelry product and the buying experience

more valuable than just the cost of the comp onents involved.

Mr. Braunwart (ericb@columbiagem house.com) is president and CEO

of Columbia Cem House, Inc. in Vancouver, Washington.

4TH INTFRNATIONAL GEMOLOCICAL SYMPOSIUM G E M S & G E M O L O C V FALL 2 0 0 6 31

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