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“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over.
So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
New Orleans
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Amy C Balfour & Adam Karlin
Plan Your Trip 1
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
ContentsContents
Welcome to New Orleans �������������������� 4
New Orleans’ Top 10 ������� 6
What’s New �������������������� 13
Need to Know �����������������14
First Time New Orleans �������������������16
Top Itineraries ��������������� 18
If You Like �����������������������20
Month by Month ������������22
With Kids ������������������������26
Like a Local ��������������������28
Eating �������������������������� 30
Drinking & Nightlife ���������������������� 34Entertainment �������������39Shopping ��������������������� 42Gay & Lesbian ������������ 44
Plan Your Trip page 1
Understand New Orleans 187
Survival Guide 215
New Orleans Maps 236
Plan Your Trip 4
Explore New Orleans 46
Transportation ������������ 216
Directory A–Z ������������� 220
Glossary �����������������������226
Index �����������������������������229
New Orleans Today ���������������������������� 188
History ��������������������������190
People of New Orleans ����������������202
Architecture ���������������� 205
Music ��������������������������� 210
Environment ���������������� 213
French Quarter ��������������58
Faubourg Marigny & Bywater ��������������������������85
CBD & Warehouse District �����100
Garden, Lower Garden & Central City �������������������115
Uptown & Riverbend ��� 130
Mid-City & the Tremé ��������������������� 144
Day Trips from New Orleans �����������������������159
Sleeping ��������������������� 172
JOH
N C
OLE
TT
I/GE
TT
Y IMA
GES
©
FOTO
LUM
INAT
E LLC/S
HU
TT
ER
STOC
K ©
JOS
H B
RA
STE
D/G
ET
TY IM
AG
ES ©
FrenchQuarter
Faubourg Marigny& Bywater
CBD & WarehouseDistrict p100
Garden,Lower Garden &
Central City
Mid-City &the Tremé
Uptown &Riverbend
p144p85
p58
p115p130
(left) City Park p146
(above) St Louis Cathedral p61
(right) George ‘Buddy’ Guy performing at the Jazz Fest p50
Top ItinerariesDay OneFrench Quarter (p58)
M Wake up and smell the coffee (and enjoy a croissant) at Croissant D’Or
(p73). Afterwards sign up for the Friends of the Cabildo walking tour (p66), our favorite introduction to the architectural wonders of the French Quarter.
French Quarter (p58)
R Wander through Jackson Square (p60), the green heart of the
neighborhood, and explore the Quarter’s museums, such as the Cabildo (p62) and Presbytère (p63). Afterwards, enjoy a free afternoon concert at the Old US Mint (p65).
French Quarter (p58)
N Relax with a drink at Tonique (p77) or French 75 (p78), two of the fin-
est cocktail bars in a city that invented the cocktail. Take in a show at Preservation Hall (p81) or One Eyed Jacks (p80), and when the music is over have a 3am breakfast at the Clover Grill (p72).
Day TwoCBD & Warehouse District (p100)
M Spend a morning visiting the Ogden Museum of Southern Art (p103). Once
you’ve immersed yourself in the aesthetics of the region, consider perusing some history at the National WWII Museum (p102).
Garden, Lower Garden & Central City (p115)
R Stroll along pretty Magazine St in a state of shopping nirvana. Then
walk north, pop into Lafayette Cemetery No 1 (p117) and hop onto the St Charles Avenue Streetcar (p135), heading west toward Audu-bon Park (p131). Afterwards, take the street-car towards the Riverbend.
Uptown & Riverbend (p130)
N Have a boozy night perusing the ex-cellent beer menu at Cooter Brown’s
Tavern & Oyster Bar (p139) and consider having an oyster or ten on the side. Then fin-ish it off by heading to the Maple Leaf Bar (p141) or Tipitina’s (p141) and rocking out to whoever is playing.
Dinner Bayona (p76) Base of home-town legend Susan Spicer.
Lunch Mister Gregory’s (p74) Baguettes with innovative sandwich fillings.
Dinner Ba Chi Canteen (p135) Vietnam-ese cooked with New Orleans indulgence.
Lunch Cochon Butcher (p111) Artisan meats with a Cajun twist.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd18
Day ThreeFaubourg Marigny & Bywater (p85)
M Get the day going with oysters and grits at Cake Café & Bakery
(p90). Eat early so you can join the morn-ing Creole Neighborhoods cycle tour with Confederacy of Cruisers (p93). If you don’t fancy traveling on two wheels, walk past Washington Square Park (p88) and Elysian Fields Ave into the residential portion of the Marigny.
Faubourg Marigny & Bywater (p85)
R Walk east (or ‘down’ in New Orleans directional-speak) along
Royal or Congress Sts and check out the riot of colorful houses. Once you pass Press St, you’re in the Bywater; look for Dr Bob’s Studio (p97). Then take a walk into the
Crescent Park (p87), where you can enjoy great views of the Mississippi.
Faubourg Marigny & Bywater (p85)
N Stay in the neighborhood to listen to live music on St Claude Ave or on
Frenchmen St (p87).
Day FourMid-City & the Tremé (p144)
M Consider renting a bicycle and rid-ing around the Tremé; Governor
Nicholls St is particularly attractive. Driv-ing is also an option. While in the neigh-borhood, don’t miss the Backstreet Cultural Museum (p151); from here, it’s an easy walk into Louis Armstrong Park. (p152)
Mid-City & the Tremé (p144)
R Head up Esplanade Avenue (p149) and gawk at all the gorgeous Creole
mansions sitting prettily under live oaks. Take Esplanade Ave all the way to City Park (p146) and wander around the New Orleans Museum of Art (p146). Afterwards,
you can relax for a spell under the trees or along the banks of bucolic Bayou St John.
Mid-City & the Tremé (p144)
N Have a well-mixed drink at friendly Twelve Mile Limit (p156); it also
serves barbecue, in case you feel peckish again. End the night at Mid-City Rock & Bowl (p157), a mix of bowling alley and concert hall.
Dinner Bacchanal (p89) for wine and cheese in a musical garden.
Lunch Lost Love (p89) dive bar has a surprise Vietnamese kitchen.
Dinner Café Degas (p154) for fabu-lously romantic French fine dining.
Lunch Dooky Chase (p155) is the queen of local soul food.
19PLAN
YOUR TRIP T
Op
ITIN
er
Ar
IeS
Walking Tour detourWalking Tour
Path/Walking Trail
BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information
Airport
Border crossingBART station
Boston T stationBus
CyclingFerry
Underground station
MonorailParking
Metro/Muni station
Petrol stationSubway/SkyTrain stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram
Other Transport
LighthouseHut/ShelterBeach
LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
River, CreekIntermittent River
Swamp/Mangrove
Reef
Canal
Water
Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Glacier
Beach/Desert
Airport/Runway
Cemetery (Christian)
Cemetery (Other)
Park/Forest
Mudflat
Sportsground
Sight (Building)
International
DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall
Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village
State/Province
LaneTertiary
TollwayFreewayPrimary
StepsPlaza/Mall
Pedestrian overpass
Secondary
Unsealed roadRoad under construction
Tunnel
Cable car/Funicular
BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen
ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight
DivingBodysurfing
Sleeping
Eating
Entertainment
Shopping
Drinking & NightlifeCafe
Camping
Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour
SkiingSnorkelingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity
Information Routes
Boundaries
Hydrography
Areas
Geographic
Population
Transport
Sights
Activities,Courses & Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book
New Orleans Maps
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd236
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FAUBOURGMARIGNY
FRENCHQUARTER
FrenchMarket
St Claude Ave
Elysian Fields
Ave Pres
s S
t
Music
St
Chartres St
Frenchmen S
t
Touro St
Royal St
Barracks StN Peters St
Pauger St
Dauphine St
Spain S
t
Marigny S
t
Mandeville S
t
N Rampart St
Marais St
St F
erdi
nand
St
Port
StBurgundy St
Kerlerec St
N Peters St
St Philip St
Decat
ur St
Decatur St
St R
och Ave
Fran
klin
Ave
Esplanade Ave
Port
St
Urquhart St
N Villere St
Esplanade
Ursulines
5
74
109
56
4047
42
50
57
45
28
17
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23
34
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4
3
1
DC
B DC
2
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A
A
D
Old New Orleans Rum Distillery Tour (1.8 mi) D
St Roch Cemetery (0.3 mi)
æ Sights (p87) 16 Booty's ........................... E3 35 Red's Chinese................ E2 1 Clouet Gardens ............. E3 17 Cake Café & 36 Satsuma..........................F3 2 Crescent Park.................F4 Bakery ......................... C3 37 Sneaky Pickle ................H2 3 Frenchmen Art 18 Dat Dog .......................... B3 38 St Roch Market ..............C1 Market ......................... B3 19 Elizabeth's.......................F4 39 Who Dat Coffee 4 Frenchmen Street......... B3 20 Fatoush .......................... C2 Cafe & Cafe 5 Healing Center .............. C2 21 Four Calendar Cafe........D1 Nero ............................. C2 6 Markey Park ...................F3 22 Franklin........................... D2
7 New Orleans Center 23 Gene's............................. B2 û Drinking & Nightlife (p92) for Creative Arts......... D3 24 Joint ................................H4 40 Big Daddy's Bar............. C3 8 Old Ironworks .................F3 25 Junction ......................... E2 41 BJ's .................................H3 9 Plessy v Ferguson 26 Kebab ..............................C1 42 Buffa's ............................ A2 Plaque.......................... D3 27 Lost Love........................ C2 43 Country Club ................. E3 10 Washington Square 28 Mardi Gras Zone ........... D3 Faubourg Park.............................. B3 29 Mariza............................. D3 Wines..................(see 21) 30 Maurepas Foods ............F3 44 Flora Gallery & ú Eating (p88) 31 Meltdown ....................... G2 Coffee Shop................ D3 11 13 Monaghan ................. B3 32 Oxalis .............................. E3 45 John ................................ B2 12 Adolfo's .......................... B3 Piety Street 46 Markey's......................... E3 13 Arabella Casa Di Snoballs................(see 8) 47 Mimi's in the Pasta............................ C2 33 Pizza Delicious ...............F3 Marigny ....................... D3 14 Bacchanal ......................H4 34 Rampart Food 48 Orange Couch ...............C3 15 Bao & Noodle................. D3 Store............................ A2 49 R Bar ............................... A3
242
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BYWATER
Mississippi River
St Vincent de Paul Cemetery
CrescentPark
St Claude Ave
N Robertson St
Alv
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t
Clo
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t
Des
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t
Inde
pend
ence
St
Royal St
Dauphine St
N Rampart St
Burgundy St
Less
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St
Gal
lier S
t
Piet
y St
Con
gres
s St
Bar
thol
omew
St
Maz
ant S
t
Fran
ce S
t
N Villere St
Urquhart St
Marais St
Loui
sa S
t
Pola
nd A
ve
Felic
iana
St
Paul
ine
St
Chartres St
Mon
tegu
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N Claiborne Ave
46
43
14
36
30
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50 Yuki Izakaya................... B3 67 Three Muses.................. B3 ÿ Sleeping (p179) 68 Vaughan's ......................H3 76 Pierre Coulon Guest ý Entertainment (p94) House...........................C3 51 AllWays Lounge............. B2 þ Shopping (p97) 77 Auld Sweet Olive Bed 52 Apple Barrel................... B3 69 Bywater Bargain & Breakfast .................C2 Blue Nile ............... (see 58) Center.......................... F3 78 B&W Courtyards ...........C3 Café Negril ........... (see 54) 70 Dr Bob's Studio ............. E3 79 Balcony Guest House...C3 53 Checkpoint Charlie ....... B3 Electric 80 Burgundy........................D2 54 d.b.a. ............................... B3 Ladyland............ (see 64) 81 Bywater Bed & 55 Dragon's Den................. B4 71 Euclid Records .............. F3 Breakfast..................... E2 56 Hi Ho Lounge ..................B1 72 Faubourg Marigny 82 Collinwood House .........C2 57 Kajun's Pub.................... C2 Book Store .................. B3 83 Crescent City 58 Maison............................ B3 73 I.J. Reilly's.......................B3 Guesthouse.................C3 59 Marigny Opera 74 Louisiana Music 84 Dauphine House............A3 House .......................... D2 Factory ........................B3 85 Frenchmen Hotel ..........B4 60 New Movement 75 New Orleans Art 86 La Boheme de Theater........................ D2 Supply.......................... E2 Marigny........................B3 61 Old Marquer Theatre.... C2 87 Lamothe House.............B3 62 Saturn Bar...................... E2 Ø Sports & Activities 88 Lions Inn B&B................C3 63 Siberia .............................B1 A Bicycle Named 89 Maison de Macarty .......G3 64 Snug Harbor .................. B3 Desire................. (see 73) 90 Melrose Mansion........... A3 65 Spotted Cat ................... B3 Confederacy of 91 Royal Street 66 Sweet Lorraine's ........... A2 Cruisers............. (see 73) Courtyard....................C3
243
cBD
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LOWER GARDENDISTRICT
CENTRALBUSINESSDISTRICT
CENTRALCITY
Tulane Ave
N Ram
part
St
S Ra
mpa
rt S
t
Car
roll
St
Pen
n S
t
Gravier St
Gravier St
Thalia St
S Li
bert
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t
S Vi
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St
Pryt
ania
St
St Joseph St
University
PlBurg
undy St
Baronne S
t
Sarat
oga
St
Julia
St
Clio St
Girod St
Sugar Bowl Dr
Cleveland St
La S
alle
St
Caron
dele
t St
St C
harle
s Ave
Baron
ne S
t
Bar
onne
St
Union St
Lafayette St
S Sa
rato
ga S
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part
St
Perdido St
O'K
eefe
St
Erato St
Common St
Car
onde
let S
t
S R
ampa
rt S
t
Pontchartrain Expwy
Ore
tha
Castle
-Hal
ey Blvd
St Cha
rles
Ave
Lee C
ir
Martin Luther King Jr Blvd
Poydras Ave
Howard Ave
Sim
on B
oliv
ar S
t
Loyo
la A
ve
Elk Pl
Julia
Poydras
Rampart St
Lee Circle
Julia
Robert E LeeMonument
UnionPassengerTerminal
Post OfficeMain Branch
Ogden Museumof Southern Art
38
15
29
30
449
16
2
6
8
12
55
59
54
61
52
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244
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WAREHOUSEDISTRICT
FRENCHQUARTER
Mississippi R
iver
WoldenbergPark
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SpanishPlaza
PiazzaD'Italia
Moo
nwal
k
Canal St
Cla
y St
Con
stan
ce S
t
Cam
p S
t
S Maestri
N Maestri
Decatu
r St
Poe
Dr
Chu
rch
St
St Louis St
Girod St
Julia St
Exch
ange
Pl
N F
ront
St
Natchez St
S P
eters St
Ann
unci
atio
n StPoeyfarre St
Tcho
upito
ulas
St
Con
stan
ce S
t
Mag
azin
e St
Bourbon
St
Mag
azin
e St
Decat
ur St
Lafayette St
Royal
St
Cam
p St N
Pet
ers
St
Notre Dame St
Fulton St
Port of N
ew O
rleans P
lConti St
Com
merce S
t
Dauphin
e St
Chartre
s St
Iberville StBienville St
Andrew Higgins Dr
Capdeville St
S Diamond St
N Diamond St
Poydras St
Poydras St
Convention C
enter Blvd
S P
eters StTc
houp
itoul
as S
t
Pic
ayne
Pl
John Churchill Chase St
Clin
ton
St
Ferry to Algiers
Union St
Common St
Poydras
Bourbon St/Carondelet St
Chartres St/Camp St
Peters St
Toulouse
Poydras
Canal
Bienville
Julia
JohnChurchillChase
Ernest N MorialConvention
Center
JuliaRow
RiverwalkMall
USCourthouse
IMAXTheatre
Canal StreetFerry
PostOffice
NationalWWII Museum
50
37
40
39
36 41
3
7
10
31
28
21
22
24
27
34
25
35
32
23
33
46
49
45
47
48
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ve
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FE G
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4
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6
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245
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EhO
uSE
CBD & WAREHOUSE DISTRICT Map on p244
æ Top Sights (p102) Bellocq ............................................... (see 55) 1 National WWII Museum .............................E6 37 Capdeville.................................................... E4 2 Ogden Museum of Southern Art ..............D6 38 Circle Bar.....................................................D6 Loa...................................................... (see 56) æ Sights (p104) 39 Lucy's Retired Surfers Bar.........................F5 3 Aquarium of the Americas.........................G3 Polo Club Lounge ............................. (see 62) 4 Arthur Roger Gallery .................................. E5 40 Rusty Nail .....................................................E7 5 Butterfly Garden & Insectarium ............... F2 Sazerac Bar........................................(see 61) 6 Civil War Museum.......................................D6 Swizzle Stick Bar .............................. (see 22) 7 Contemporary Arts Center .......................E6 41 Wine Institute of New Orleans 8 Gallier Hall....................................................D4 (WINO)...................................................... F4 9 George Schmidt Gallery.............................D5
10 Harrah's Casino ..........................................G3 ý Entertainment (p113) 11 Jean Bragg Gallery of Southern Art ......... E5 Fountain Lounge............................... (see 26) 12 Lee Circle .....................................................D6 42 Howlin' Wolf ................................................ F6 13 Lemieux Galleries ....................................... F5 43 Republic New Orleans ............................... F6 14 Louisiana Children's Museum................... F5
15 Mercedes-Benz Superdome .....................A3 þ Shopping (p114) 16 New Orleans Cotton Exchange.................D2 44 Alex Beard Studio....................................... D5 17 Preservation Resource Center .................F6 45 Ariodante..................................................... E5 18 Scrap House................................................G7 46 Meyer the Hatter ........................................ E2 19 Soren Christensen Gallery ........................ F5 47 Outlet Collection at Riverwalk ..................H5 20 United Fruit Company................................E3 48 REpurposingNOLA Piece by Peace ........................................................ E5 ú Eating (p109) 49 Shops at Canal Place ..................................F3 21 Bon Ton Café...............................................E3
22 Café Adelaide ..............................................F4 Ø Sports & Activities 23 Carmo...........................................................E5 50 Creole Queen ..............................................H4 24 Cochon .........................................................F6
25 Cochon Butcher.......................................... F6 ÿ Sleeping (p181) 26 Domenica..................................................... D1 51 Country Inn & Suites...................................F3 27 Drago's Seafood Restaurant.................... G4 52 Drury Inn & Suites...................................... D3 28 Emeril's......................................................... F5 53 Embassy Suites Hotel.................................F5 29 Herbsaint .....................................................D4 54 Hampton Inn New Orleans 30 Johnny Sanchez..........................................D3 Downtown ................................................D3 Le Pavillon..........................................(see 59) 55 Hotel Modern ..............................................D6 31 Mother's.......................................................F4 56 International House ................................... E3 32 Peche Seafood Grill .................................... E5 57 La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown ........... E3 33 Restaurant August ..................................... F3 58 Lafayette Hotel ........................................... E4 34 Rock-n-Sake ............................................... G6 59 Le Pavillon ...................................................D3 35 Ruby Slipper – Downtown......................... F3 Loews New Orleans Hotel ............... (see 22) 60 Loft 523........................................................ E3 û Drinking & Nightlife (p112) 61 Roosevelt New Orleans .............................D2 36 Barcadia.......................................................F4 62 Windsor Court Hotel ...................................F3
246
GArDEN, LOW
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GArD
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lle S
t
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la St
Washington Ave
St Andrew St
Urani
a St
Thal
ia S
t
S Saratoga St
Thal
ia S
t
Dryades
St
Erat
o St
Brain
ard S
t
Thal
ia S
t
Eute
rpe
St
Philip St
Felicity
St
Jackson Ave
Rampart St
Clio S
tTe
rpsi
chor
e St
Rac
e S
t
Second St
Ora
nge
St
S Li
berty
St
Erat
o St
Philip St
Frere
t St
Sarat
oga
St
Danne
el S
t
Dryad
es S
t
Baron
ne S
t
Baron
ne S
t
Eute
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St Mary
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Pont
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Third St
First S
t
S Liberty
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Simon B
olivar S
t
Fourth St
Third StSecond St
First S
t
Jackson AvePry
tania S
t
Danneel St
S Sar
atoga
St
Baronne St
Carondelet St
St Charles Ave
Prytania StCamp St
Magazine St
Constance St
Mel
pom
ene
St
Mar
tin L
uthe
r Kin
g Jr
Blvd
Terp
sich
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St Charles Ave
Felicity
StJosephine St
Carondelet S
t
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2 43
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p247
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Toledano St
Chestn
ut St
Rich
ard
St
Aline StDelachaise StChippewa St
Tcho
upito
ulas
St
Felicity
St
Rouss
eau
St
Toledano StPleasant St
St Tho
mas
St
Eighth St
Seventh St
Fourth St
Josephine St
Caron
dele
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Pryta
nia
St
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um S
t
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t
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St Mag
azin
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Const
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Laur
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Harmony St
Sixth St
Harmony St
Chippew
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Seventh StSixth St
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Third St
Second StFirs
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Washington Ave
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Third St
Second StFirs
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Jackson Ave
Laure
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Mag
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Orleans Parish
Jefferson Parish
RIVERBEND
Mississippi R
iver
LeveePark
CarrolltonCemetery
TulaneUniversity
Audubon ParkGolf Course
St MaryCemetery
UrsulineCollege &Convent
Loyola St
Jeffe
rson
Ave
Stat
e St
Stat
e St
Jose
ph S
t
Cohn St
Lower
line
St
Audub
on S
t
Cherokee St
Sycamore St
Leon
tine
St
Jolie
t St Panola St
S Robertson St
Burthe StBro
adway
St
Wal
nut S
t
Birch St
Palm
er A
veO
ctav
ia S
t
Valm
ont S
t
Cambro
nne St
Zimple St
Riverview
Dr
Web
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St
Eleo
nore
St
Oct
avia
St
Dublin S
t
Willow St
Ara
bella
St
Hen
ry C
lay
Ave
Hickory St
Oak St
Pine
St
Pine
St
Broad
way S
t
S Claiborne Ave
Magnolia St
Short St
Benjamin St
Milla
udon St
Green St
Burdette
St
Hurst St
Benjamin St
Adams S
t
Newco
mb B
lvd
Nas
hvill
e Av
e
Expo
sitio
n B
lvd
Dante S
t
Laure l St
Clara St
Neron St
Pitt St
Jeannette StPlum St
Dominican StAud
ubon
St
Pearl St
Garfield St
Chestnut St
Cal
houn
St
Lower
line
St
Annunciation St
Hurst St
Spruce St
Pitt St
Fern S
t
Prytania St
Hillary
St
Coliseum St
Belle
cast
le S
t
Camp St
Jose
ph S
t
Hampson St
Monro
e St
Patton St
Maple St
Garfield St
Leonidas St
Constance St
River Dr
Zoo Ave
East
Dr
Vers
aille
s Bl
vd
Magazine St
Audu
bon
Blvd
Jeff
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n Av
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LafayetteCemetery
No 2
Laurel St
Third St
Washington Ave
Fourth St
Prytania St
Magazine St
Chestnut St
Toledano St
Second St
Constantinople St
Second St
Eighth St
Dufo
ssat
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Tchoupitoulas St
Philip St
Harm
ony StSeventh St
Prytania St
Delachaise St
Valence St
Peniston St
Marengo S
t
Upp
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e S
t
Am
elia St
Son
iat S
t
First St
Constance St
Perrier St
Third StRocheblave St
Milan S
t
Rob
ert S
t
Carondelet St
Annunciation St
Jackson Ave
S Liberty St
Felicity St S
St Andrew St
S Dop
re S
t
Jena St
Jena St S Gay
oso
St
Fourth StTonti St
Eden St
Pe
S Sa
lced
o St
Miro St
Constance St
Thalia St
Johnson St
Prieur St
Bordeaux S
t
Galvez St
S Lop
ez S
t
Aline St
Erato St
Cadiz S
t
Laurel St
Clara St
Roman St
Gen P
ershing StLyons S
t
Gen Taylor S
t
Delachaise St
Antonine St
Freret St
Austerlitz St
Dryades St
S Broad St
Sim on Bolivar S
t
Martin Luther King Jr Blvd
Napoleon Ave
Louisiana Ave
Louisiana Ave
Toledano St
Earhart Blvd
S Cla
ibor
ne A
ve
Broad
St
Coliseum St
Camp St
Peniston St
Gen Taylor St
Am
elia StFoucher St
Annunciation St
Lasalle St
Carondelet St
Loyola St
Saratoga St
Danneel St
La Salle St
S Liberty St
Valence St
Cadiz S
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tMagnolia St
Foucher St
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elia St
Loyola St
Freret St
S Claiborne Ave
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Saratoga St
Danneel St
Dryades St
Baronne St
Carondelet St
Toledano St
Harm
ony StSeventh St
Sixth St
Prieur S
tJohnson St
Fontainebleau Dr
S Robertson St
Pitt St
St Charles Ave
Tchoupitoulas St
S Derbigny St
S Derbigny St
Napoleon
Louisiana
Washington Ave
4644
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æ Top Sights (p132) 39 Whole Foods ...............................................D6 1 Audubon Zoological Gardens....................B6 40 Willie Mae's Grocery & Deli ....................... B3
æ Sights (p133) û Drinking & Nightlife (p139) 2 Amistad Research Center .........................C4 41 Boot..............................................................C3 3 Audubon Park..............................................B5 Bouligny Tavern................................ (see 28) 4 Hogan Jazz Archive ....................................C3 42 Columns Hotel ............................................ G5 5 Levee Path ...................................................A2 43 Cooter Brown's Tavern & Oyster 6 Milton Latter Memorial Library.................E5 Bar ............................................................. A3 7 Newcomb Art Gallery.................................C3 44 Cure.............................................................. E4 Southeastern Architectural 45 F&M's Patio Bar...........................................E7 Archives ............................................ (see 4) 46 Freret Street Publiq House ....................... E4 8 Touro Synagogue ....................................... F5 47 Le Bon Temps Roulé.................................. E6 9 Tulane University........................................C3 48 Monkey Hill Bar...........................................C6 Ms Mae's.............................................(see 13) ú Eating (p134) 49 Oak Wine Bar .............................................. B2 10 Ba Chi Canteen ...........................................B3 50 Rue de la Course......................................... B2 11 Boucherie..................................................... B1 51 Snake & Jakes............................................. B2 12 Camellia Grill ...............................................A3 52 St Joe's ........................................................D6 13 Casamento's ...............................................F6
14 Clancy's .......................................................C7 ý Entertainment (p141) 15 Company Burger ........................................E4 53 Gasa Gasa ................................................... E4 16 Cowbell......................................................... A1 54 Lupin Theatre..............................................C4 17 Creole Creamery.........................................E6 55 Maple Leaf Bar............................................ B2 18 Dat Dog ........................................................E4 56 Prytania Theatre......................................... D5 19 Delachaise ...................................................G5 57 Tipitina's .......................................................F7 20 Domilise's Po-Boys.....................................D7
21 Gautreau's ...................................................E5 þ Shopping (p142) 22 Guy's.............................................................D6 58 Berta's & Mina's Antiquities...................... F6 23 Hansen's Sno-Bliz....................................... E7 59 Bloomin' Deals............................................ E4 24 High Hat Cafe ..............................................E4 60 C Collection................................................. A2 25 Il Posto..........................................................E5 61 Cole Pratt Gallery .......................................G6 26 Jacques-Imo's Café....................................B2 62 Crescent City Comics................................ E4 Kyoto ...................................................(see 17) 63 Dirty Coast ..................................................D6 27 La Petite Grocery........................................ F6 64 Feet First...................................................... F6 28 Lilette........................................................... G6 65 Freret Street Market .................................. F4 29 Magasin Cafe...............................................F6 66 Hazelnut ......................................................D6 30 Mahony's Po-Boy Shop............................. G6 67 Maple Street Book Shop ........................... B3 31 Mat & Naddie's............................................A2 68 Pelican Coast Clothing Co.........................D6 32 Midway Pizza...............................................E4 Pied Nu............................................... (see 66) 33 Patois............................................................C6 69 Potsalot........................................................G6 34 Pizza Domenica ..........................................E6
35 Refuel ...........................................................A2 ÿ Sleeping (p185) 36 Satsuma Maple ...........................................B3 70 Chimes......................................................... F6 37 St James Cheese Co ..................................E6 Columns Hotel .................................. (see 42) 38 Tee-Eva's Old-Fashioned Pies & 71 Hampton Inn St Charles Avenue..............G5 Pralines .....................................................E6 72 Park View Guest House .............................B4
252
MID
-cItY & thE trEM
ÉMID-CITY & THE TREMÉ Map on p254
æ Top Sights (p146) 35 Pagoda Cafe.................................................F3 1 City Park....................................................... C1 36 Parkway Tavern..........................................D4 2 St Louis Cemetery No 1 ............................ G6 37 Ruby Slipper................................................C4 38 Toup's Meatery...........................................C2 æ Sights (p149) 39 Twelve Mile Limit........................................ B5 3 Alcee Fortier Park .......................................E2 40 Willie Mae's Scotch House........................ F4 4 Backstreet Cultural Museum....................H5
5 Botanical Gardens...................................... C1 û Drinking & Nightlife (p156) 6 Carousel Gardens Amusement Park ....... B1 41 Bayou Beer Garden....................................D4 7 Congo Square ............................................ H6 42 Fair Grinds................................................... E2 8 Esplanade Avenue ......................................E2 43 Finn McCool's .............................................B4 9 Fair Grounds Race Course ........................E2 44 Mid-City Yacht Club ................................... A3 10 Le Musée de f.p.c........................................ F3 45 Pal's.............................................................. E3 11 Louis Armstrong Park............................... H6 46 Pearl Wine Co..............................................D3 12 Louis Armstrong Statue ........................... H6 47 Treo .............................................................. B5 13 Mortuary Chapel........................................ G6 Twelve Mile Limit.............................. (see 39) 14 New Orleans African American
Museum ....................................................H5 ý Entertainment (p157) 15 New Orleans Museum of Art ..................... C1 48 Banks Street Bar ........................................ A3 16 Our Lady of the Rosary Rectory ...............D2 49 Bullets ..........................................................H2 17 Peristyle ....................................................... C1 50 Candlelight Lounge.................................... G5 18 Pitot House..................................................D2 51 Chickie Wah Wah........................................ D5 19 Sanctuary ....................................................D3 52 Mahalia Jackson Theater ..........................H6 20 Singing Oak.................................................. D1 53 Saenger Theatre......................................... G7 21 St Augustine's Church ...............................H5
22 St Louis Cemetery No 3..............................E1 þ Shopping (p158) 23 Sydney & Walda Besthoff Sculpture 54 F&F Botanica Spiritual Garden....................................................... C1 Supply....................................................... E4 55 Massey's......................................................C3 ú Eating (p152) 56 SoPo.............................................................C3 24 Angelo Brocato ...........................................B3 57 Tubby & Coos .............................................C3 25 Café Degas...................................................E2
26 Cajun Seafood............................................ H4 Ø Sports & Activities 27 Dis and Dat ..................................................E6 58 City Putt........................................................B1 28 Dooky Chase ............................................... F5 59 Wheel Fun Rentals.......................................D1 29 Lil' Dizzy's ................................................... H4
30 Liuzza's By the Track .................................E2 ÿ Sleeping (p186) 31 Lola's ............................................................E2 60 Ashton's Bed & Breakfast.........................G4 32 Mandina's.....................................................C4 61 Degas House............................................... F4 33 MoPho ..........................................................B2 62 HH Whitney House.....................................G4 34 Morning Call ................................................ C1 63 India House Hostel..................................... D5 Nonna Mia Café & Pizzeria ..............(see 25) 64 La Belle Esplanade.....................................G4
253
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cott
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N Dupre
St
S Gay
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t
S Sal
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Palm St
N M
urat St
N Olym
pia St
S Cor
tez St
Alla
rd B
lvd
N Gay
oso St
Stroelitz St
Clio St
S St Pat
rick St
Iberville St
S Olym
pia St
S Lopez S
t
N Ber
nadotte
St
S Ren
don St
David
St
Solom
on St
S Cla
rk S
t
N Ren
don St
Conti St
S Dor
geno
is St
Rosedale Dr
N Hag
an A
vePalmyra St
S Solo
mon S
t
S M
urat St
Toulouse StHen
nesse
y St
S Dupre
St
Howard Ave
Lafitte Ave
Baudin St
Cleveland St
D'Hemecourt St
Banks St
Bienville St
Banks St
Ulloa St
Delgado Dr
Orleans Ave
Washington Ave
Tulane Ave
Earhart Blvd
N Carro
llton Ave
S Carro
llton Ave
S Bro
ad Ave
Canal St
Moss St
M
oss St
LeLong Dr
Orleans Ave
N Anth
ony StN
St Patric
k St
N Alex
ander
St
City Park Ave
Victory AveG
ener
al D
iaz
St
Lafitte Ave
Toulouse St
S Tel
emac
hus St
S W
hite St
Gravier StPerdido St
Palmetto StEuphrosine St
Edinburgh St
Erato St
Pontchartrain Expwy
Dumaine St
Frederichs Ave
N Jeffe
rson
Dav
is Pkw
y
Collins Diboll Cir
St Peter St
Broad St
White St
JeffersonDavis Pkwy
N Carrollton Ave
Bienville St
OrleansAve
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S Rom
an St
S Prie
ur St
Rosiere
St
Dumaine St
St Ann St
N Lopez
St
Gayos
o St
Derby Pl
Dupre S
t
Desoto St
N Rom
an StN M
iro S
t
N Dorgenois St
Law St
N Tonti
St
Conti St
Toulouse St
Hope St
St Peter St
Agriculture St
Duels St
Aubry St
St Ann St
Barracks St
Republic S
t
Ursulines Ave
Lafitte Ave
Industry St
Toulouse St
Havana S
t
S Jo
hnson
St
Allen
St
D'Abadie St
Palmyra St
Governor Nicholls St
AP
Tureaud Ave
Lapeyrouse St
St Phillip St
La Harpe St
Cleveland St
Lafitte Ave
Bienville St
Gen
tilly
Blv
d
Orleans Ave
Columbus St
Esplanade Ave
St Bernard Ave
N Rom
an St
N Johnso
n St
N Gal
vez S
t
N M
iro St
N Ton
ti St
N Roch
ebla
ve S
t
N Dor
genoi
s St
St Peter St
St Louis St
Toulouse St
St Peter St
Orleans Ave
Basin
St
Iberville St
Onzaga St
S Gal
vez S
t
N Ram
part
St
N Bro
ad A
ve
Canal St
Esplanade Ave
Leda
St
Bol
ivar
St S
Derbig
ny St
Tulane Ave
N Sal
cedo S
t
Bayou RdLe Page St
N Tonti St
N Roch
ebla
ve S
t
Dumaine St
St Ann St
N Gal
vez St
N Jo
hnson
St
St Philip St
Kerlerec StTre
mé St
N Ville
re St
N Rob
erts
on St
N Prie
ur St
Paul M
orphy S
t
New
Orleans
St
N Lopez St
Fortin StMaurepas St
Ponce de Leon StGrande Route St John
N Dorg
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St
Roussel
in D
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tte D
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St
N Rom
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t
Belfort Ave
N Prie
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Poydras St
S Cla
iborn
e Ave
N Cla
ibor
ne Ave
N Der
bigny S
t
Castiglione St
Trafalgar St Bruxelles S
t
N Jo
hnson
StN
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St
Galvez St
Rampart StBasin St/Elk Pl
Claiborne Ave
St LouisCemetery No 1
11
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255
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9837th edition – November 2015ISBN 978 1 74321 009 3© Lonely Planet 2015 Photographs © as indicated 201510 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
Our WritersAmy C BalfourCBD & Warehouse District; Garden, Lower Garden & Central City; Uptown & Riverbend; Mid-City & the Tremé Amy’s first visit to New Orleans was a college trip to Mardi Gras when the four B’s – bars, beads, boys and a ball gown – were her only concerns. She has now added boudin. Amy has visited 47 states but keeps returning to New Orleans to explore more of the city. On this trip she fell for City Park, Clancy’s, and 12 Mile Limit. Amy has authored or co-authored 27
Lonely Planet guidebooks. Amy also wrote the Survival Guide.
Adam KarlinFrench Quarter, Faubourg Marigny & Bywater, Day Trips from New Orleans Adam first came to New Orleans as a young freshman on spring break back in 1999. Even through a haze of dumb nights on Bourbon, he knew the place was special, a feeling that was confirmed when he revisited a decade later for Lonely Planet. That time around, he really fell for New Orleans, and now lives there
with his wife and daughter. Otherwise, Adam has written over 45 guidebooks for Lonely Planet, primarily covering the Americas, but stretching as far afield as the Andaman Islands to the Zimba-bwe Border (get it? A-Z? Never mind). Adam also wrote the Plan Your Trip and Understand New Orleans chapters.
Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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