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7/24/2019 Actigum™VSX 20
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CONFIDENTIAL. This document contains trade secret information. Disclosure, use or reproduction outside Cargill or inside
Cargill, to or by those employees who do not have a need to know is prohibited except as authorized by Cargill in writing.
Actigum™VSX 20
Texture formulations even
in challenging conditions
www.cargill.com
Cargill Personal Care
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Cargil l offers an unrivalled portfolio…
Hydrocolloids
Glycerin
Cocoa &
Chocolate
Lecithins
Proteins
Starches &
Derivatives
Polyols
Malt
Oils & Fats
Alcohol
Functional
Systems
Actigum™VSX 20: texture formulat ions, even in challenging condit ions
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…of nature derived texturizers
Xanthan
Gum
Carrageenans
Locust
Bean Gum
Lecithins
Pectins
Scleroglucan
Alginates
Starches
Actigum™VSX 20: texture formulat ions, even in challenging condit ions
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Consumer key trends
Lecithins
Health & Wellness• Consumers are
concerned by their skin
health and appearance
so want safer and anti-
aging products for them
• Natural ingredientsare perceived as safer
• Consumers want to
preserve the planet for
future generations
• Biodiversity is crucial for
the planet
Sustainability
Multifunctionality
• Consumers time is precious
so they are looking for quick
and convenient products
Actigum™VSX 20: texture formulat ions, even in challenging condit ions
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Challenges for Cosmetic formulators
Sustainability
• Emulsifier –free
• Resistance to high T°C
• Low pH formulations
Multi-functionality
Health &
wellness
5
• Natural ingredients
• From renewable source
• Ingredients with wide compatibility• Performance solutions in challenging
conditions
…while offering a pleasant sensorial experience to consumers
Actigum™VSX 20: texture formulat ions, even in challenging condit ions
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Challenges for Cosmetic formulators
Suspension
Viscosity
Texture/
sensory
CHALLENGES
Clarity
Stability
Sustainability
Actigum™VSX 20: texture formulat ions, even in challenging condit ions
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In a nutshell: solving formulation challenges
Lecithins
A more
sustainable
solution
• Natural origin• Renewable source
Highly
performing
• High viscosity
• Suspension
• Stabilization
even in difficult
conditions
• Resistant to high T°
• Performance at low pH
Actigum™VSX 20: texture formulat ions, even in challenging condit ions
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Actigum™VSX 20 A more sustainable solution is a synergistic
combination of biopolymers, which helps formulators totexture and stabilize skincare formulations even in difficult
conditions, without impacting badly the environment.
8 Actigum™VSX 20: texture formulat ions, even in challenging condit ions
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Recipe
Xanthan gumScleroglucan
Produced by the aerobic
fermentation of sugars by the
fungus Sclerotium rolfsii
Cargill Pharma & Personal care
Actigum™ VSX 20 A more sustainable solution
Produced by the aerobic
fermentation of sugars by the
bacterium Xanthomonas
campestris.
9 Actigum™VSX 20: texture formulat ions, even in challenging condit ions
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Recipe
• Natural origin polysaccharides
• Produced by the aerobic fermentation of sugars
• Renewable source
• Biodegradable
• Cold processable
Actigum™ VSX 20 A more sustainable solution
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Recipe
• Non-ionic
• Excellent compatibility
(electrolytes, surfactants, alcohol …)
• Clear gel & pleasant
sensory
• High yield value
• Resistance to high T°C
• Usable in a wide range of pH
Actigum™VSX 20 A high-performing synergistic combination
• Anionic
• Clear gel
• Wide compatibility
• Electrolytes
• Alcohol (up to 60%)
• Stable over a wide range of
temperatures and pHs
• Synergies with other
polymers such as Locust Bean
Gum, Sclerotium gum, Guar gum
+
Xanthan gumScleroglucan
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• Synergistic combination of biopolymers
• Texturizing /Suspending agent
• Stabilizer
• Stable in extreme conditions of pH and
temperature
• Clear gel / Pleasant sensory
• Moisturizing enhancer
• From fermentation
• Renewable source
Sclerotium gum and xanthan gum
Actigum™VSX 20The texturizer for challenging conditions
INCI name
Description & properties
Raw materials
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Unique stabilizing
propertiesStabilization of :
• Sprayable, fluid emulsions
• Suspensions
Actigum™VSX 20 A high performing synergistic combination
Actigum™VSX 20: texture formulat ions, even in challenging condit ions
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Unique synergistic
combination, offering
an increased
viscosity or lower
cost in use
Comparison of Viscosity obtained in a body milk formulation
Texturizer tested
in the
formulation
Viscosity at
1 s-1
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
CS 11 0,10% cx911 0,1% actigum VSX20 0,1% actigum VSX20 0,08%
Xanthan gum0.1%Scleroglucan0.1% Ac tigum™VSX 20 0.08%
Actigum™VSX 20 0.1%
Actigum™VSX 20High performing synergistic combination
Actigum™VSX 20: texture formulat ions, even in challenging condit ions
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A unique
multifunctionalsolution:
• Immediate
• Long lasting• Hydration enhancement
Actigum™ VSX 20 A high performing synergistic combination
Actigum™VSX 20: texture formulat ions, even in challenging condit ions
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Performance,
even in challenging conditions
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Refreshing mineral sunspray
with Actigum™VSX 20
• Stabilization of a high content of
mineral filter
• Sprayable
• Low viscosity formulation
Actigum™ VSX 20High performing synergistic combination
Actigum™VSX 20: texture formulat ions, even in challenging condit ions
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Comparative rheological profi le between sun care products
Unique stability
• Storage
• Exposition to h igh t°C
Beach
Warm countries
Actigum™VSX 20The candidate for difficult condit ions – Stability to High T°C
After exposure to high temperature both
ActigumTM products are recovering their
viscosity
Actigum™VSX 20: texture formulat ions, even in challenging condit ions
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When textured with Actigum™VSX 20, the viscosity of the formulation is
not impacted by acidic pH.
• Stable viscosity in awide range of pH
• Pleasant texture
• No need to neutralise
Actigum™VSX 20The candidate for difficult condit ions – Texturizing at low pH
0
500
1000
1500
2000
2500
3000
3500
4000
2 3 4 5 6
Amaze XT (0.25%)
ultrez 30 (0.1%)
Actigum VSX 20 (0.5%)
pH
Viscosity (Cps)
Actigum™VSX 20: texture formulat ions, even in challenging condit ions
Dehydroxanthan Gum (0.25%)
Carbomer (0.1%)
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Actigum VSX 20
thickens efficiently
even:
• at low pH
• In presence of
electrolytes
Actigum™ VSX 20The candidate for difficult condit ions – Texturizing at low pH
0
100
200
300
400
500
600
700
800
900
Amaze XT (0.4%) Actigum VSX 20(0.5%)
Carbopol Ultrez 30(0.9%)
V i s c o s i t y ( C p s )
Milk with 5% AHA- Viscosi ty in function oftexturizers
Formulation at pH: 4.25
Brookfield RVT-100 RPM
Actigum™VSX 20: texture formulat ions, even in challenging condit ions
Dehydroxanthan
Gum (0.4%)
Carbomer (0.9%)
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Actigum™ VSX 20The candidate for difficult condit ions – Texturizing at low pH
Ingredients INCI Name %
Demi. Water Water (Aqua) qsp
Actigum VSX 20Sclerotium gum (and) xanthan
gum0.5
C*HiForm A12747Hydroxypropyl starch
phosphate3
Refined Glycerin Glycerin 2
Sisterna SP70C Sucrose stearate 1.5
Caprylic capric triglyceride Caprylic/Capric triglyceride 15
Citric acid solution (20%) Citric acid Adjust at pH=4.5
Complexe sorbate & benzoateAqua (and) sodium benzoate
(and ) potassium sorbate1
AHA Acides de fruits
Water (and) Vaccinium myrtillus extract
(and) Saccharum officinarum extract (and)
Acer saccharum extract (and) Citrus
aurantium dulcis extract (and) Citrus
medica limonum extract.
5
Anti-agingcream with
5% AHA
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Actigum™ VSX 20The candidate for difficult condit ions – Texturizing at low pH
Ingredients INCI Name %
Demi. Water Water (Aqua) qsp
Actigum VSX 20Sclerotium gum (and) xanthan
gum0.5
C*HiForm A12747Hydroxypropyl starch
phosphate3
Refined Glycerin Glycerin 2
Sisterna SP70C Sucrose stearate 1.5
Caprylic capric triglyceride Caprylic/Capric triglyceride 15
Citric acid solution (20%) Citric acid Adjust at pH=4.5
Complexe sorbate & benzoateAqua (and) sodium benzoate
(and ) potassium sorbate1
AHA Acides de fruits
Water (and) Vaccinium myrtillus extract
(and) Saccharum officinarum extract (and)
Acer saccharum extract (and) Citrus
aurantium dulcis extract (and) Citrus
medica limonum extract.
5
Anti-agingcream with
5% AHAIngredients INCI Name %
Demi. Water Water (Aqua) qsp
Carbomer Carbomer 0.9
Satiaxane CX 911 Xanthan gum 0.225
Refined Glycerin Glycerin 2
Sisterna SP70C Sucrose stearate 1.5
Caprylic capric triglyceride Caprylic/Capric triglyceride 15
Citric acid solution (20%) Citric acid Adjust at pH=4.5
Complexe sorbate & benzoateAqua (and) sodium benzoate
(and ) potassium sorbate1
AHA Acides de fruits
Water (and) Vaccinium myrtillus extract
(and) Saccharum officinarum extract (and)
Acer saccharum extract (and) Citrus
aurantium dulcis extract (and) Citrus
medica limonum extract.
5
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0.01
0.1
1
10
100
1 10 100 1000 10000
V i s c o s i t y ( P a . s
)
Shear rate (s-1)
Cream wi th 5% AHA- Flow curves
Actigum VSX 20 (0.5%) +C*HiForm A122747 (3%)
Carbopol Ultrez 30 (0.9%)+ Xanthan gum (0.225%)
Actigum™VSX 20The candidate for difficult condit ions – Texturizing at low pH
• High viscosity at rest
• Shear-thinning
behaviour
• Richness at
application
In the jar
At delivery
At applicat ion
Actigum™VSX 20: texture formulat ions, even in challenging condit ions
Carbomer (0.9%)
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Actigum™ VSX 20The candidate for difficult condit ions – Texturizing at low pH
Ingredients INCI Name %
Demi. Water Water (Aqua) qsp
Actigum VSX 20Sclerotium gum (and) xanthan
gum0.15
C*HiForm A12747Hydroxypropyl starch
phosphate 6
Glycerin Glycerin 15
Complexe sorbate &
benzoate
Aqua (and) sodium benzoate
(and ) potassium sorbate1
Exfoliating Beads ”Exfoliating agent” 2
AHA
Water (and) Vaccinium myrtillu s extract
(and) Saccharum offici narum extract
(and) Acer saccharum extract (and)
Citrus aurantium dulci s extract (and)
Citrus medica limonum extract.
10
Fragrance Fragrance 0.2
Low pH
Resurfacing
Facial Peel with
10% AHA
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4 MONTH – 45°C
Phase Raw material %
A
Water 97.5
ActigumTM VSX20 0.5
Preservative 1
Beads 1
• Unique suspending
properties even at
low pH• Clear gel
• Pleasant sensory
Actigum™ VSX 20The candidate for difficult condit ions – Suspending at low pH
ph 2 ph 3 ph 4 ph 5
Actigum™VSX 20: texture formulat ions, even in challenging condit ions
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Phase Ingredients INCI name %
A
Demi. Water Water (Aqua) Qsp
Actigum VSX 20Sclerotium gum (and)
xanthan gum0.65
Glycerin Glycerin 2
B
Sisterna SP70C Sucrose stearate 1.5
Avobenzone ButylMethoxydibenzoylmethane
3
EthylHexyl
Methoxycinnamate
EthylHexyl
Methoxycinnamate7
Benzophenone-3 Benzophenone-3 7
Floramac 10Ethyl Macadamiate (and)
Tocopherol (and) Malic acid5
Caprylic capric
triglyceride Caprylic/Capric triglyceride 5
C Geogard 221Dehydroacetic acid (and)
Bezyl alcohol (and) Water1
D C*EmTex 06328Sodium Starch Octenyl
Succinate2
28.5%
Oil
phase
Actigum™ VSX 20The candidate for difficult condit ions – Emulsifier-free
Stable 1 Monthat 45°C
Stability still on going
Actigum™VSX 20: texture formulat ions, even in challenging condit ions
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In a nutshell: solving formulation challenges
Lecithins
A sustainable
solution
• Natural origin
• Renewable source
Highly
performing
• High viscosity• Suspension
• Stabilization
even in difficult
conditions
• Resistant to high T°
• Performance at low pH
Actigum™VSX 20: texture formulat ions, even in challenging condit ions
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28
Visit us on Stand 7R40–Hall 7
Discover more developments on Cargill
products in skin care, oral care and hair care.
www.cargill.com
Thank for your attention !
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