Baraadsar Trek

8/3/2019 Baraadsar Trek

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TREK BARAADSAR

February 2009 Outlook TRAVEL92 Outlook TRAVELLER February 2009

T

here is a certain mystique attached to high-

altitude lakes. Mountain terrain tends to be any-thing but flat and when you come across a lake, you are left wondering how it was formed. I waswinding up a trek in the Obra Valley, in westernGarhwal, when I first heard of it. I asked for moreinformation, and our support team of locals told meabout what they unanimously considered the loveli-est spot in the regionBaraadsar Lake.

Baraadsar Lake is located at a height of 4,400m

between the Rupin and Supin valleys. This region isclose to the Uttarakhand-Himachal Pradesh borderand is approached by driving north from Mussooriefor 7-8hrs.The best-known valley in the region is thepretty Har-ki-dun, loved for its wide expanse, flower-strewn meadows and majestic mountain views. Thevalley east of Har-ki-dun is Obra, and further east arethe Supin and Rupin valleys. All of these present

excellent trekking opportunities including severalpasses to the north, leading into Kinnaur in HimachalPradesh. Our plan was to approach Baraadsar Lakefrom the Rupin valley and exit from the Supin valley.We were seven in all, including five women, all rela-

tively new to trekking. It was mid-September whenwe assembled at Netwar, which is located on theconfluence of the Rupin and Supin rivers. Our firstnight was at the Forest Rest House at Netwar. It was

a long night, with the leeches in the garden and the

palm-sized spiders inside providing some exciteThe next morning, we abandoned our SUVs andthe local jeeps. We began the trek from D(1,500m), 10km from Netwar; above, the skyovercast with rain clouds. Here a villager stoppwanting to know where we were heading, and hearing Baraadsar, he requested us to say a pwhen we reached the lake, so that the heavy rathe last few days would let up. It seemed tha

local folk considered the lake sacred.

Maninder Kohli traces a path between the Rupin and Supin valleys to find a lakethat doesnt easily give up its secrets

HIGHLAND WATERS

We walked past well-kept

mountain villages and small

fields. We requested a vil-

lager to give us chillies from

her fields; without a

moments hesitation, the

family plucked enough to last

us the trek, refusing to

accept any money in return.

By late afternoon we re

Bitri (2,500m), the last v

lage on the trail. The vil

temple with its exquisit

architecture dominated

landscape. We camped a

metre further in a large

meadow which doubles

a childrens playground.DAY 1MANINDERKOHLI


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BARAADSAR

Through day two, the trail moved

through fairly dense forest sections

as we gradually gained height. We

could see the Rupin river on its

meandering course, winding on the

valley floor far below, flowing to the

west as we continued to head north.

We came across small meadows and

streams, which were great spots to

take a break by.

The continuous rain had washed

the area into a bright green land-

scape. This was the longest stage on

our trek, and it was with great relief

that, late into the evening with the

setting sun as a backdrop, we saw

our tents in the distance.

Our day two camp was at

Masundha Dhar (3,600m),

which is a high point on the

ridge dividing the Rupin and

Supin valleys. This was an

exposed campsite with

breathtaking views in all

directions. Towards the

north, clearly in view, was

the Baraadsar Ridge; acro

the Rupin, we could see th

west peaks of Himachal.

Towards the east, we caug

glimpses of a cluster of

peaks across the Har-ki-du

valley of which Kalanag

(6,387m) seemed the mo

prominent.

DAY 2

Photographsby MAN


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Early morning views from Masundha

Dhar were special. Towards the east,

the first rays started to hit the

peaks. The refracted beams did

something special to the

Swargarohini (6,247m)turning the

air around the summit a bright

orange and imbuing it with a halo.

This is a mountain massif with four

separate peaks. It is a dramatic

mountain: its north face drops

2,000m in less than 2km and itssouth face is only marginally less

steepmaking it a challenging climb.

Thanks to our excellent location, we

were able to see all the four peaks

of the mountain clearly.

BARAADSAR

At 3,500m, we were above

the tree line and vegetationhad thinned out considerably.

The hard work on day two

meant that we had achieved

most of the height gain

required, and we now moved

on flat sections along the

Rupin-Supin ridge. At the

head of the Supin Valley w

could see views of the largmeadow, Vishkhopdi, vish

being poison and khopdi

meaning brain. According

legend, those who visit th

meadow in summer becom

intoxicated from the scent

the flowers there.

DAY 3

MANINDERKOHLI

PERCYFERNANDEZ


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In the afternoon, we found our-

selves in the middle of a massive

hailstorm. By late evening it had

abated and it seemed that peace

would prevail on the saddle. We

were quite wrong. Around 9pm, just

as we had settled into our tents,

looking forward for some much-

needed rest, gale winds started,

threatening to blow our tents and us

down into the valley below. Further

reinforcements in the form of heavy

stones were required to keep our

tents and blood pressure down.

Finally, towards the middle of the

night, it all went quiet and we were

able to get some sleep.

Day four was one of the high-

lights of the trek. We walked

along grassy slopes through

the day, with the recurring

feeling that we were in para-

dise. As we moved closer to

the Baraadsar Ridge, we

noticed there had been a lib-

eral spray of snow: the next

days climb seemed daunting.

By early afternoon, we

reached the base of the

Baraadsar Ridge from where

the final climb to the lake

starts. We were at Camp Dev

Bhasa (3,640m), which we

nicknamed the saddle due

to its U-shaped appearance.

DAY 4

BARAADSAR

Photographsby PERCYFERNANDEZ


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BARAADSAR

February 2009 Outlook TRAVELLE100 Outlook TRAVELLER February 2009

The sight in front of us was stun-

ning. We were looking into a mas-

sive bowl-shaped expanse that

resembled a cauldron. There were

high ridges in all directions, and in

the middle, lower down in the basin,

the Baraadsar Lake. In the back-

ground beyond the ridges, mountain

peaks, magnificently spread out as

far as eye could see.

The minute they caught sight ofthe lake, our team of local porters

started to pray and lit agarbatis in

offering. Their faith in the lake was

strong; it was their unshakeable

belief that no prayer goes unan-

swered here.

Starting early at 6am the

next morning, we made good

progress for it was fine

weather. By 8am we were at

4,000m, where the snowline

began. Around 9am the sun

started to hit the slopes,

turning the snow into slush,

slowing us down consider-

ably. The only benefit in mov-

ing in knee-deep snow was

that, on the steeper sections,

we were comfortable, not

needing to be roped up. By

10.30am, we reached the top

of the ridge at 4,400m and

got our first peek at what lay

beyond.

DAY 5

PERCYFERNANDEZ

MAN


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February 2009 Outlook TRAVELLE102 Outlook TRAVELLER February 2009

GETTING THERE The best option is to take a

night train to Dehradun and drive to Netwar via

Mussoorie, Purola and Mori. A four-wheel drive

costs about Rs 4,000 and takes about 8hrs.

PREPARING This is a moderate trek, but good

fitness levels always help. While the final climb

to the Baraadsar Ridge is up a settled trail, the

route can get complicated if you are walking in

snow. Ideally, you should not find snow in June,

July and August. It is essential to carry a warm

sleeping bag and a stable, well-secured tent.

ITINERARY Day 1: Netwar to Dhaula (1,500m),

10km drive and trek to Bitri (2,500m), 12km/6hrs;

Day 2: Trek from Bitri (2,500m) to Masundha Dhar

(3,600m), 16km/8hrs; Day 3: Trek from Masundha

Dhar (3,600m) to Dhalka Dhar (3,500m),

5km/4hrs; Day 4: Trek from Dhalka Dhar (3,500m)to Dev Bhasa (3,650m), 4km/4hrs; Day 5: Trek

from Dev Bhasa (3,650m) to Baraadsar Ridge

(4,400m) and return to meadow below Dev Bhasa

(3,250m), 12km/9hrs; Day 6: Trek through Rehla,

Phitari to Dhara (2,000m) at the confluence of

the Obra and Supin, 15km/7hrs; Day 7: Dhara

(2,000m) to Jakhol, the road head (2,200m),

5km/3hrs. Drive another 22km to Netwar.

TIP To make the stages of the trek slightly more

comfortable, there is an option to camp lower

down in the forest rather than at Masundha Dhar

on Day 2. Based on the weather and snow condi-

tions, you can also camp at Baraadsar Lake but

youd need an additional day to do this.

TOUR OPERATORS We used Har Ki Dun

Protection & Mountaineering Association for

all logistic support and found the team wellorganised.COST Rs 9,000 per person (Netwar-

Baraadsar-Netwar). CONTACT Chain Singh Rawat,

09412918140, www. harkidun.org TEAM We

were a team from the Delhi chapter of the 80-

year-old Himalayan Club. For more information

about activities of the mountaineering club, see

www.himalayanclub.org

T H E I N F O R M A T I O Ni

On our journey down through

the Supin Valley, I reflected

on the local belief surround-

ing Baraadsar Lake. I remem-

bered the man we had met at

the start of our trek who had

requested us to pray for the

rain to let up. We were in the

region for three more days as

we made our way back

and there was not a dro

rain. Apart from being o

whelmingly beautiful,

haps there is somethin

sacred about the wate

Baraadsar... Perhaps ou

had indeed been divine

blessed.DAY 6

BARAADSARPERCY

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Baraadsar Trek