Croatia 5 Zagreb

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Everyone knows about Croatia, its coast, beaches and islands, but a mention of the countryscapital still draws confused questions: Is it nice? Worth going to for a weekend? Well, hereit is, once and for all: yes, Zagreb is a great destination, weekend or week-long. Theres lotsof culture, arts, music, architecture, gastronomy and all the other things that make a qualitycapital. Admittedly, it doesnt register highly on a nightlife Richter scale, but it does have anever-developing art and music scene, and a growing influx of fun-seeking travellers.

Zagreb is made for strolling the streets, drinking coffee in the almost permanently fullcafs, popping into museums and galleries, and enjoying the theatres, concerts, cinemaand music. Its a year-round outdoor city: in spring and summer everyone scurries to JarunLake in the southwest to swim, boat or dance the night away at a lakeside disco, while inautumn and winter Zagrebians go skiing at Mt Medvednica, only a tram ride away, or hik-ing in nearby Samobor.

Visually, Zagreb is a mixture of straight-laced Austro-Hungarian architecture and rough-

around-the-edges socialist structures. Its character is a sometimes uneasy combination ofthese two elements: try hard as they may, frequenters of Zagrebs elegant galleries, high-classrestaurants and alternative art and music venues cannot quite ignore the vast turbo folkcrowds, attesting to the citys and the countrys lasting struggle between its perceivedCentral European sophistication and Balkan savagery. But perhaps therein lies much of itscharm the mixture of and the schism between these two characteristics have given Zagreba personality all of its own.

Zagreb

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HIGHLIGHTS

Sipping coffee and cocktails alfresco alongTkalieva (p87)

Strolling along the winding streets ofZagrebs Upper Town (p73)

Gorging on trukli (dumplings filled withcottage cheese) in Samobor (p93), after adays hiking

Coveting the paintings at the MuseumMimara (p80) Picnicking inMaksimir Park (p81) Contemplating mortality amid the trees and

tombs in Mirogoj (p80)

Samobor Zagreb

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HISTORYZagrebs known history begins with two hills.Kaptol, now the site of Zagrebs cathedral, wasa thriving canonical settlement in the 11thcentury while another small settlement wasdeveloping on nearby Gradec hill. Both weredevastated by the Mongol invasion of 1242.

In order to attract foreign artisans to theruined region, King Bela walled Gradec andturned it into a sort of royally controlledfiscal paradise (tax haven) with numerousprivileges. Kaptol remained unprivileged,unwalled and under the churchs jurisdic-tion. As the centuries rolled on, a ruinousrivalry developed between the two townsthat frequently descended into violenceand near-warfare.

On a number of occasions, the bishopsof Kaptol excommunicated the entire townof Gradec, which responded by lootingand burning Kaptol. The two communitieswere finally united by their common com-mercial interests, such as the three annualfairs that brought merchants and money tothe neighbourhood.

In the middle of the 15th century, theOttomans reached the Sava River, prompt-ing the bishop to finally fortify Kaptol. Bythe mid-16th century, they had taken muchof the surrounding territory, but not the twohill towns, which, having lost their economicimportance by the beginning of the 17thcentury, decided to merge into one town.Thus Zagreb was born.

Zagreb emerged as the capital of the tinyCroatian state largely because there werefew towns left standing after the Turkishonslaught. The commercial life of the citystagnated during the ensuing two centuriesof warfare, fires and plague, and in 1756the seat of Croatian government fled fromZagreb to Varadin, where it remained until1776. By the end of the 18th century, Zagrebhad a mere 2800 residents, the majority ofwhom were German or Hungarian.

Meanwhile, the space now known as TrgJosipa Jelaia grew as a commercial centreand became the site of Zagrebs lucrativetrade fairs, spurring construction aroundits edges. In the 19th century the economyexpanded with the development of a pros-perous clothing trade, a steam mill and tan-nery, and a rail link connecting Zagreb withVienna and Budapest, and the citys culturaland educational life blossomed, too.

Zagreb also became the centre for theIllyrian movement that was pressing forsouth-Slavic unification, greater autonomywithin the Austro-Hungarian Empire andrecognition of the Slavic language. CountJanko Drakovi, lord of Trakoan Castle,published a manifesto in Illyrian in 1832and his call for a national revival resoundedthroughout Croatia.

Drakovis dream came to fruition whenCroatia and its capital joined the Kingdomof Serbs, Croats and Slovenes after WWI.Between the two world wars, working-classneighbourhoods emerged in Zagreb betweenthe railway and the Sava River, and new resi-dential quarters were built on the southernslopes of Mt Medvednica. In April 1941, theGermans invaded Yugoslavia and enteredZagreb without resistance. Ante Paveli andthe Ustae moved quickly to proclaim theestablishment of the Independent State ofCroatia (Nezavisna Drava Hrvatska), withZagreb as its capital (see p33 for more onPaveli and the Ustae). Although Paveli ranhis fascist state from Zagreb until 1944, he

never enjoyed a great deal of support withinthe capital, which consistently maintainedsupport for Titos Partisans.

In postwar Yugoslavia, Zagreb (to its cha-grin) took second place to Belgrade but con-tinued to expand, with the development ofZagreb Airport and the Zagreb fairgrounds.

Zagreb was made the capital of Croatia in1991, the same year that the country becameindependent.

ORIENTATIONLying between the southern slopes of MtMedvednica and the Sava River, Zagreb cov-ers 631 sq km. Most of the citys highlights liewithin the Upper Town (Gornji Grad), whichincludes the neighbourhoods of Gradec andKaptol, and the Lower Town (Donji Grad),which runs between the Upper Town andthe train station. The majestic central squareof the Lower Town is Trg Josipa Jelaia,which is the hub for most of Zagrebs trams.Radiating west from the square is Ilica, themain commercial street; north of the squareare the medieval Gradec and Kaptol neigh-bourhoods. Many streets in the Upper andLower Towns are closed to cars.

The train station is in the southern partof the city. As you come out of the train sta-tion, youll see a series of parks and pavilions

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ZAGREB Information lone lyplane t . com

directly in front of you, which lead into thecentre of town.

The bus station is 1km east of the trainstation. Trams 2, 3 and 6 run from the busstation to the train station. Tram 6 goes toTrg Josipa Jelaia.See p293 for more information on the useof street names in Zagreb.

INFORMATIONBookshopsAlgoritam (Gajeva 1;h 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pmSat) This shop off Trg Josipa Jelai a has a wide selec-tion of books and magazines in English, French, German,Italian and Croatian to choose from. Its inside the Hotel

Dubrovnik but accessed through a separate entrance.Knjiara Ljevak (Ilica 1;h 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pmSat) Has an excellent selection of maps as well as Englishtranslations of destination guides and Croatian cookbooks.

EmergencyPolice station (% 45 63 311; Petrinjska 30) Assistsforeigners with visa problems.

Internet AccessIn addition to the place listed here, thereare a number of smaller internet cafs alongPreradovieva.Sublink (% 48 11 329; www.sublink.hr; Teslina 12; perhr 15KN;h 9am-10pm Mon-Sat, 3-10pm Sun) It was thecitys first cybercaf and it remains its best.

LaundryIf youre staying in private accommodationyou can usually ask the owner to do yourlaundry, which would be cheaper than the twooptions listed here. Both charge about 60KNfor 5kg of laundry.Petecin (Kaptol 11;h 8am-8pm Mon-Fri)Predom (Drakovi eva 31;h 7am-7pm Mon-Fri)

Left LuggageGarderoba bus station(per hr 1.20KN;h 5am-10pmMon-Sat, 6am-10pm Sun);train station(per hr 1.20KN;h 24hr)

LibrariesBritish Council (% 48 13 700; Ilica 12;h 10am-4.30pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri, 1.30-6.30pm Wed) Has a librarywhere you can read British and American newspapers, booksand periodicals, watch BBC news and borrow books andDVDs. It also sponsors plays, concerts and exhibitions.French Cultural Institute (% 48 10 745;Preradovi eva 40;h media centre 10am-5pm Mon-Thu,to 4pm Fri, library 10am-5pm Mon-Fri) Has a reading room

and media centre. Enter at 5 Preradovi eva to listen toFrench tapes or watch French news in the media cenThe institutes library has a selection of French bookmagazines and newspapers. Both the media centre anlibrary are closed for five or six weeks in the summe

Medical ServicesDental Emergency (% 48 28 488; Perkoveva 3;h 24hr)KBC Rebro (% 23 88 888; Kipati eva 12;h 24hr) Eastof the city, it provides emergency aid.Pharmacy(% 48 16 198; Trg Josipa Jelai a 3;h 24hr)

MoneyThere are ATMs at the bus and train stations,the airport, and at numerous locations aroundtown. There are banks in the train and busstations that accept travellers cheques, and ex-change offices can be found in the ImportanneCentar, Zagrebs main shopping centre, onStareviev Trg. Atlas Travel Agency (below)is the Amex representative in Zagreb.

PostMain post office(% 48 11 090; Jurii eva 13;h 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat) Has a telephone centre.Post office(% 49 81 300; Branimirova 4;h 24hrMon-Sat, 1pm-midnight Sun) Holds poste restante mail.This post office is also the best place to send packag

Tourist InformationMain tourist office(% 48 14 051; www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr; Trg Josipa Jelai a 11;h 8.30am-8pm Mon-Fri,9am-5pm Sat, 10am-2pm Sun) Distributes city maps andfree leaflets. It also sells the Zagreb Card (see p77).

Plitvice National Park Office (% 46 13 586; TrgKralja Tomislava 19;h 9am-5pm Mon-Fri) Has details onCroatias national parks.Tourist office annexe(% 49 21 645; Trg Nikole ubi aZrinjskog 14;h 9am-6pm Mon-Fri) Same services as thmain tourist office but less documentation.Zagreb County Tourist Association(% 48 73 665;www.tzzz.hr; Preradovi eva 42;h 8am-4pm Mon-Fri) Hasinformation about attractions in the region outside Za

Travel AgenciesAtlas Travel Agency(% 48 07 300; Zrinjevac 17;h 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat) Amex represenCroatia Express (% 49 22 237; www.zug.hr; Trg KraljTomislava 17;h 9.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat)At this office opposite the train station you can chanmoney, make train reservations, rent cars, buy air antickets, and book hotels around the country.Dali Travel (% 48 47 472; [email protected];Demanova 9;h 9am-5pm Mon-Fri) The travel branch

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of the Croatian YHA can provide information on HI hostelsthroughout Croatia and make advance bookings.Dalmacijaturist (% 48 73 073; Zrinjevac 16;h 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat) Next to the tourist officeannexe. Specialises in the Dalmatian coast; also books

excursions and air tickets and is a good source of informa-tion on boat and ferry routes along the coast.Generalturist (% 48 10 033; www.generalturist.com;Praka 5;h 9.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat) Hasbranches throughout Croatia and books excursions to thecoast, cruises and plane tickets. Bookings are done at theoffice on Petri eva.Marko Polo (% 48 15 216; Masarykova 24;h 9am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat) Handles information andticketing for Jadrolinijas coastal ferries.

SIGHTSAs the oldest part of Zagreb, the Upper Townhas landmark buildings and churches fromthe earlier centuries of Zagrebs history. TheLower Town has the citys most interestingart museums and fine examples of 19th- and20th-century architecture.

Keep track of the latest special exhibitionsin the Zagreb tourist offices monthlyZagrebEvents & Performances guide, but bear in mindthat nearly everything is closed on Monday.

Upper TownDOLAC FRUIT & VEGETABLE MARKETZagrebs colourfulDolac fruit & vegetable market (h 6am-3pm) is just north of Trg Josipa Jelaia.Its the buzzing centre of Zagrebs daily activ-ity, with traders coming from all over Croatiato sell their products here. The Dolac has been

heaving since the 1930s when the city authori-ties set up a market space on the border be-tween the Upper and Lower towns. The mainpart of the market is on an elevated square; thestreet level has indoor stalls selling meat anddairy products and, a little further towardsthe square, flowers. The stalls at the north-ern end of the market are packed with locallyproduced honey, handmade ornaments andsuper-cheap food.

KAPTOL SQUAREThe medieval Upper Town centres onKaptol Sq. Most of the buildings here datefrom the 17th century. Make sure you takea peek at theStone Gate, the eastern gateto medieval Gradec Town, now a shrine.According to legend, a great fire in 1731destroyed every part of the wooden gate ex-cept for the painting of the Virgin and Child

by an unknown 17th-century artist. Peoplebelieve that the painting possesses magicalpowers and come regularly to pray before it,light candles and leave flowers. Square stoneslabs are engraved with thanks and praise tothe Virgin.On the western facade of the Stone Gateyoull see astatue of Dora, the hero of an 18th-century historical novel who lived with herfather next to the Stone Gate.

CATHEDRAL OF THE ASSUMPTION OF THEBLESSED VIRGIN MARYKaptol Sq is dominated by thiscathedral (Katedrala Marijina Uzneenja;% 48 14 727; Kaptol; admis-

sion free;h 7am-7.30pm), formerly known as StStephens. Its twin spires seemingly per-manently under repair soar over the city.Construction of this cathedral (on the site ofan earlier Romanesque cathedral, which hadbeen destroyed by the Tartar invasion in 1242)began in the second half of the 13th century.It followed the prototype of the Church of StUrban in Troyes, France.

Although the cathedrals original Gothicstructure has been transformed many timesover, the sacristy still contains a cycle offrescoes that date from the second half ofthe 13th century. As the furthest outpost ofChristianity in the 15th century, the cathedralwas surrounded by walls with towers, one ofwhich is still visible on the eastern side. Anearthquake in 1880 badly damaged the cathe-dral and reconstruction in a neo-Gothic stylebegan around the turn of the 20th century.

Despite the scars inflicted on the structure,there is much to admire on the inside. Noticethetriptych by Albrecht Drer on the side altar;the baroque marble altars, statues and pul-pit; and thetomb of Cardinal Alojzije Stepinac byIvan Metrovi.

To the north of the cathedral, anArchbishopsPalace was built in the 18th century in a ba-roque style, but little remains. Under thenortheastern wing of the cathedral is a19th-

century parkwith a sculpture of a female nudeby Antun Augustini.

JESUIT CHURCH OF ST CATHERINEThis fine baroque church (Crkva Svete Katarine;% 48 51 959; Katarinin Trg;h 7am-noon) was builtbetween 1620 and 1632. Although batteredby fire and earthquake, the facade still gleamsand the interior contains a fine altar datingfrom 1762. The interior stucco work dates

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from 1720 and there are 18th-century medal-

lions depicting the life of St Catherine on theceiling of the nave.

GALERIJA KLOVIEVI DVORIThisgallery(% 48 51 926; www.galerijaklovic.hr; JezuitskiTrg 4; adult/student 40/20KN;h 11am-7pm Tue-Sun) ishoused in a former Jesuit monastery and isthe citys most prestigious space for exhibit-ing modern Croatian and international art,presented in a series of changing exhibitions.

Some of the more noted exhibitions have in-

cluded Picasso and, more recently, Chagall,as well as collections of Croatias promi-nent fine artists, such as Lovro Artukovi and Ivan Lovreni. If youre looking foran unusual, arty souvenir, try the gallerysgift shop. Theres also a nice caf attachedto the gallery.

Opposite the gallery is the 18th-centuryDverce mansion, which was restored in the 19thcentury and is now used for official receptions.

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Tip Top.....................................Vallis Aurea..............................Vincek......................................Zinfandel's Restaurant............(see 71)

100% Liquid Health.................Apartman.................................Argentina.................................Booksa......................................BP Club....................................Bulldog Caf.............................Cica..........................................Eli's Caf...................................Funk.........................................Hemingway............................Melin......................................Oliver Twist............................Palainovka...............................kola......................................

Croatian Music Institute..........Croatian National Theatre.......David......................................Draen Petrovi Basketball

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G Bar......................................Kazalite Komedija................(see 118)Komedija Theatre...................Koncertna Direkcija Zagreb.....Kset........................................Purgeraj...................................Vatroslav Lisinski Concert

Antiques Market.....................Bornstein................................Branimir Centar.......................Croata....................................

Knjiara Ljevak........................(see 15)

Nama.....................................Prostor....................................Rukotvorine............................

Avis........................................Budget Rent-a-Car................(see 122)Buses to Mirogoj.....................Croatia Airlines.......................Hertz......................................Hrvatski Autoklub...................

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Albanian Embassy......................Algoritam...................................Atlas Travel Agency....................Bosnian & Hercegovinian Embassy..................................British Council.............................Canadian Embassy......................Croatia Express...........................Croatian National Tourist Board..Croatian YHA.........................(see 10)Czech Embassy...........................Dali Travel.................................Dalmacijaturist..........................Dental Emergency.....................French Cultural Institute...........French Embassy........................Generalturist.............................Irish Consulate..........................

Main Post Office.......................Main Tourist Office..................Marko Polo...............................Petecin.....................................Pharmacy.................................Plitvice National Park Office.....Police Station............................Polish Embassy .........................

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Predom ....................................Slovakian Embassy....................Slovenian Embassy....................(see 9)Sublink.....................................Tourist Office Annexe..............Zagreb County Tourist Association...........................

Archaeological Museum ..........Archbishop's Palace...................Art Pavilion..............................Arts & Crafts Museum..............Banski Dvori..............................Botanical Garden.......................

City Museum............................Croatian Association of Fine Artists...................................Croatian History Museum.........Croatian Museum of Nave Art..Croatian Natural History Museum...............................Dolac Fruit & Vegetable Market..

Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary....

E7Post Office................................

Dverce Mansion......................(see 47)Equestrian Statue......................Ethnographic Museum..............Fountain.................................(see 47)Funicular Railway......................Galerija Klovievi Dvori...........Gallery of Modern Art..............Jesuit Church of St Catherine....Lotrak Tower ........................Metrovi Atelier....................Museum Mimara......................Sabor........................................St Mark's Church......................Sculpted Stone Head of Matija Gubec...................................Sports & Recreational Centre alata....................................Statue of Dora........................(see 57)Stone Gate...............................Strossmayer Gallery of Old Masters................................Technical Museum...................

Arcotel Allegra..........................Evistas.......................................Fulir Hostel...............................Hotel Central.............................Hotel Dubrovnik.......................Hotel Jadran..............................Krovovi Grada..........................Never Stop................................Omladinski Hostel ....................Palace Hotel.............................Pansion Jgerhorn....................Regent Esplanade Zagreb.........

Agava.......................................Baltazar.....................................Boban.......................................Cantinetta................................Dubravkin Put...........................Gavrilovi...............................Ivica I Marica............................Kaptolska Klet...........................Kerempuh.................................Konoba iho............................Makronova...............................Market.................................(see 115)Nocturno..................................Pekarnica Dora.........................Pivnica Stari Fijaker 900.............

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Before leaving the square, note thefountain with the statueFisherman with Snake, whichwas created by Simeon Roksandi in 1908.

SABOR

The eastern side of Markov Trg is taken up bythe Croatiansabor (parliament), built in 1910on the site of baroque 17th- and 18th-centurytownhouses. Its neoclassical style is quite in-congruous on the square, but the historical(and present) importance of this building isundeniable Croatias secession from theAustro-Hungarian Empire was proclaimedfrom its balcony in 1918, and it is the centreof Croatian politics today.

ST MARKS CHURCHThis church (Crkva Svetog Marka;% 48 51 611; MarkovTrg;h 11am-4pm & 5.30-7pm) is one of Zagrebsmost emblematic buildings. Its colourfultiled roof was constructed in 1880 and thetiles on the left side depict the medieval coatof arms of Croatia, Dalmatia and Slavonia,while the emblem of Zagreb is on the rightside. The 13th-century church was namedfor the annual St Marks fair, which washeld in Gradec at the time, and it retains a13th-century Romanesque window on thesouthern side. The Gothic portal composedof 15 figures in shallow niches was sculptedin the 14th century. The present bell towerreplaces an earlier one that was destroyed byan earthquake in 1502. The interior containssculptures by Metrovi.

It is unfortunate that the churchs court-

yard (ie the square itself) is used as a car parkfor government members.

CROATIAN NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUMThis museum (Hrvatski Prirodoslovni Muzej;% 48 51700; Demetrova 1; adult/concession 15/7KN;h 10am-5pmTue-Fri, to 1pm Sat & Sun) houses a collection ofprehistoric tools and bones excavated fromthe Krapina cave as well as exhibits show-ing the evolution of animal and plant life in

Croatia. Temporary exhibits often focus onspecific regions.

BANSKI DVORITheBanski Dvori (Bans Palace; Markov Trg)was oncethe seat of Croatian viceroys and is now thepresidential palace. The building is composedof two baroque mansions and houses courts,archives and other government offices. InOctober 1991 the palace was bombed by the

federal army, in what some believe to havebeen an assassination attempt on PresidentFranjo Tuman. From April to Septemberthere is a guard-changing ceremony everyFriday, Saturday and Sunday at noon.

Leaving Markov Trg by irilometodska,youll come across asculpted stone head rep-resenting Matija Gubec, the leader of acelebrated peasant rebellion who was allegedly

beheaded on the square. METROVI ATELIERCroatias most recognised artist is IvanMetrovi. His former home, a 17th-centurybuilding where he worked and lived from1922 to 1942, is now theMetrovi Atelier(% 48 51 123; Mletaka 8; adult/concession 30/15KNh 10am-6pm Tue-Fri, to 2pm Sat & Sun). The excel-lent collection has some 100 sculptures,

drawings, lithographs and furniture fromthe first four decades of his artistic life.Metrovi, who also worked as an architect(see boxed text, p80), designed many partsof the house himself.

CITY MUSEUMTheCity Museum (Muzej Grada Zagreba;% 48 51 364;www.mdc.hr/mgz; Opatika 20; adult/concession 20/10Kh 10am-6pm Tue-Fri, to 1pm Sat & Sun) sits in the

17th-century Convent of St Clair, which isbuilt along the eastern wall of the town. Since1907 the convent has housed a historical mu-seum presenting the history of Zagreb in doc-uments, artwork and crafts, plus interactiveexhibits that fascinate kids. Most interesting isa scale model of old Gradec. Summaries of theexhibits are posted in English and German ineach room and evocative music accompaniesyour visit.

ZAGREB CARDIf youre in Zagreb for a day or three, get-ting the Zagreb Card is a pretty good way tosave money. You can choose either 24 or 72hours (60 or 90KN) and you get free travelon all public transport, a 50% discount onmuseum and gallery entries, and discountsin some bars and restaurants, car rental andso forth. A booklet is available listing all theplaces that offer discounts, or check www.zagrebcard.fivestars.hr for more details. Thecard is sold at the main tourist office andmany hostels, hotels, bars and shops.

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CROATIAN HISTORY MUSEUMLocated in a gorgeous baroque building, theCroatian History Museum (Hrvatski Povijesni Muzej;% 48 51 900; www.hismus.hr; Matoeva 9; adult/conces-sion 10/5KN;h 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat & Sun) dis-plays an interesting collection of flags, stones,fine art, photos, documents and maps tracingCroatias history.

CROATIAN MUSEUM OF NAVE ARTIf you like Croatias nave art, a form thatwas highly fashionable locally and worldwideduring the 1960s and 1970s and has declinedsomewhat since, theCroatian Museum of NaveArt (Hrvatski Muzej Naivne Umjetnosti;% 48 51 911; www.hmnu.org; irilometodska 3; adult/student 10/5KN;h 10am-6pm Tue-Fri, to 1pm Sat) will be a feast. The smallmuseum houses over 1000 paintings, draw-ings and some sculpture by the disciplines

most important artists, such as Generali,Mraz, Virius and Smalji. For more on theseartists, see p105.

Dont miss the fun and technicolour sculp-tures produced by Sofija Naletili Penavua(191394), an illiterate Hercegovinianwoman who first started making woodensculptures to amuse her grandson and thenbecame massively popular during the 1980sand 1990s.

LOTRAK TOWERThe Lotr ak Tower (Kula Lotrak;% 48 51 926;Strossmayerovo etalite; admission 10KN;h 11am-8pmTue-Sun) was built in the middle of the 13thcentury in order to protect the southern citygate. For the last hundred years a cannon hasbeen fired every day at noon commemoratingan event from Zagrebs history. According tolegend, a cannon was fired at noon one day

at the Turks camped across the Sava River.On its way across the river, the cannonballhappened to hit a rooster. The rooster wasblown to bits and, the story goes, thats whythe Turks became so demoralised and failedto attack the city. A less fanciful explanationis that the cannon shot allows churches tosynchronise their clocks.

The tower may be climbed for a sweeping360-degree view of the city. Near the tower

is a funicular railway (3KN), which was con-structed in 1888 and connects the Lower andUpper Towns.

Lower TownTRG JOSIPA JELAIAZagrebs main orientation point and the geo-graphic heart of the city is Trg Josipa Jelaia.This is where most people arrange to meetup, and if you want quality people-watching

ZAGREB IN

Two DaysStart your day with a stroll through Strossmayerov Trg, Zagrebs oasis of greenery. While youre

there, take a look at the Strossmayer Gallery of Old Masters (opposite ) and then walk to TrgJosipa Jela ia (below), the citys centre.Head up to Kaptol Square (p73) for a look at theCathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed

Virgin Mary (p73), the centre of Zagrebs (and Croatias) religious life. While youre in the UpperTown, pick up some fruit at theDolac fruit & vegetable market (p73) or, better, have lunch at Kerempuh (p85). Then get to know the work of Croatias best sculptor atMetrovi Atelier (p77)and see its nave art legacy at theCroatian Museum of Nave Art (below) or take in a contemporaryart exhibition at Galerija Klovievi Dvori (p76). See the lay of the city from the top ofLotrakTower (below). The evening is best spent having a drink atkola (p87) or bar-crawling alongTkalieva (p87).

On the second day, tour the Lower Town museums, reserving a good two hours for theMuseum Mimara (p80). Lunch atTip Top (p85) and digest in the Botanical Garden (p80). Earlyevening is best at Trg Petra Preradovia before dining at one of the Lower Town restaurants andsampling some of Zagrebs nightlife.

Four DaysYour third day should take in the lovely Mirogoj cemetery (p80), with maybe a stop atMedvedgrad (p81) or Maksimir Park (p81).

On your last day, make a trip out toSamobor (p93) for a heavy dose of small-town charm.Eat, drink and then take a nice walk to digest it all.

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you can sit in one of the cafs and watch thetram-loads of people getting out, greetingeach other and dispersing among the news-paper and flower sellers.

The squares name comes from Ban Jelai,the 19th-centuryban (viceroy or governor)who led Croatian troops into an unsuccessfulbattle with Hungary in the hope of winningmore autonomy for his people. Theequestrianstatueof Jelai stood in the square from 1866until 1947, when Tito ordered its removalbecause it was too closely linked with Croatiannationalism. Franjo Tumans governmentthen dug it up out of storage in 1990 andreturned it to the square.

Most of the buildings date from the 19thcentury; note the reliefs by sculptor IvanMetrovi at No 4.

ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUMThe Archaeological Museum (Arheoloki Muzej;% 4873 101; www.amz.hr; Trg Nikole ubi a Zrinjskog; adult/con-cession 20/10KN;h 10am-5pm Tue-Fri, to 1pm Sat & Sun) has artefacts that stem from prehistoric timesonwards. Among the most interesting arethe Vuedolska golubica (Vuedol Dove), a4000-year-old ceramic censer found near thetown of Vukovar. The bird has since becomea symbol of Vukovar and peace. Also fasci-nating are theEgyptian mummies, with ambientsounds and light designed to provoke ponder-ing. Thecoin collection is one of the most im-portant in Europe, containing some 260,000coins, medals, medallions and decorations.

The courtyard has a collection ofRoman

monuments dating from the 5th to 4th cen-turies BC and functions as an open-air cafin summer.

STROSSMAYER GALLERY OF OLD MASTERSThis museum (Strossmayerova Galerija Starih Majstora;% 48 95 115; www.mdc.hr/strossmayer; Zrinjevac 11; adult/concession 10/5KN;h 10am-1pm & 5-7pm Tue, 10am-1pmWed-Sun) is housed in the 19th-century neo-Renaissance Croatian Academy of Arts and

Sciences. This lovely building showcases theimpressive fine-art collection donated to thecity by the illustrious Bishop Strossmayerin 1884.

The museum includes Italian mastersfrom the 14th to 19th centuries such as GBellini, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo;Dutch and Flemish painters such as JBrueghel the Younger; French and Spanishartists Proudhon, Carpeaux and El Greco;

and the classic Croatian artists Meduli andBenkovi.

The interior courtyard contains theBakaSlab (Baanska ploa), a stone tablet fromthe island of Krk, which contains the oldestexample of Glagolitic script, dating from 1102.There is also astatue of Bishop Strossmayer byIvan Metrovi.

GALLERY OF MODERN ARTWest of the Strossmayer Gallery is theGalleryof Modern Art(Moderna Galerija;% 49 22 368; AndrijeHebranga 1; adult/concession 20/10KN;h 10am-6pm Tue-Fri, to 1pm Sat), which has a glorious display ofCroatian artists of the last 200 years, includ-ing such 19th- and 20th-century Croatianmasters as Bukovac, Mihanovi and Rai. Itsan excellent overview of the vibrant Croatianarts scene.

ART PAVILIONThe yellowArt Pavilion (Umjetniki Paviljon;% 4841 070; www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr; Trg Kralja T22; adult/concession 20/10KN;h 11am-7pm Mon-Sat,10am-1pm Sun) presents changing exhibitions

of contemporary art. Constructed in 1897in stunning art nouveau style, the pavilion isthe only space in Zagreb that was specificallydesigned to host large exhibitions.

ARTS & CRAFTS MUSEUMBuilt between 1882 and 1892, thismuseum(Muzejza Umjetnost i Obrt;% 48 82 111; www.muo.hr, in CroatiTrg Marala Tita 10; adult/student 30/15KN;h 10am-6pmTue-Fri, to 1pm Sat & Sun) exhibits furniture, tex-

tiles, metal, ceramic and glass dating fromthe Middle Ages to contemporary times. Youcan see Gothic and baroque sculptures fromnorthern Croatia as well as paintings, prints,bells, stoves, rings, clocks, bound books, toys,photos and industrial designs. The museumalso contains an important library and thereare frequent temporary exhibitions.

ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM

Thismuseum(Etnografski Muzej;% 48 26 220; www.emz.hr; Trg Maurani ev 14; adult/concession 15/10KN, Thu;h 10am-6pm Tue-Thu, to 1pm Fri-Sun) is worth a visit, especially on Thursdays when admis-sion is free. Its housed in a domed buildingdating from 1903 and contains some 70,000items that catalogue the ethnographic heritageof Croatia. Only about 2750 exhibits are ondisplay, including ceramics, jewellery, musi-cal instruments, tools and weapons, as well

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as Croatian folk costumes, gold-embroideredscarves from Slavonia and lace from the islandof Pag. Thanks to donations from the Croatianexplorers Mirko and Stevo Seljan, there arealso interesting artefacts from South America,the Congo, Ethiopia, China, Japan, NewGuinea and Australia. Fascinating temporaryexhibitions are often held on the 2nd floor.

MUSEUM MIMARA

Zagrebs best art collection is at theMuseumMimara(Muzej Mimara;% 48 28 100; Roosveltov Trg 5;adult/concession 20/15KN;h 10am-5pm Tue, Wed, Fri & Sat,to 7pm Thu, to 2pm Sun). This is the diverse privatecollection of Ante Topi Mimara, who do-nated over 3750 priceless objects to his nativeZagreb, even though he spent much of his lifein Salzburg, Austria.

Housed in a neo-Renaissance formerschool building (1883), the collection spans

a wide range of periods and regions. There isan archaeological collection with 200 itemsfrom Egypt, Mesopotamia, Persia, Greece,Rome and early medieval Europe; exhibits ofancient Far Eastern artworks; a glass, textileand furniture collection that spans centuries;and 1000 European art objects.

In painting, Italian artists Raphael,Veronese, Caravaggio and Canaletto arerepresented. Dutch artists Rembrandt and

Ruisdael are also present, and there areFlemish paintings from Bosch, Rubensand Van Dyck. Spanish painters Velzquez,Murillo and Goya, German and English paint-ers, and French masters de la Tour, Boucher,Delacroix, Corot, Manet, Renoir and Degasare also in the collection.

BOTANICAL GARDENIf you need a change from museums, galleries

and/or shopping and schlepping, take a breakin this lovelygarden (Botaniki Vrt; http://hirc.botanic.hr; Mihanovi eva bb; admission free;h 7am-9pm Apr-Oct).Laid out in 1890, the garden has 10,000 spe-cies of plant, including 1800 tropical floraspecimens. The landscaping has created rest-ful corners and paths that seem a world awayfrom bustling Zagreb.

North of the Centre

MIROGOJA 10-minute ride north of the city centre onbus 106 from the cathedral (or a 30-minutewalk through leafy streets) takes you toMirogoj cemetery(h 6am-10pm), at the base ofMt Medvednica. This is without a doubt oneof the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe one wag commented that the people here arebetter housed in death than they ever were inlife. The cemetery was designed in 1876 by one

ART VERSUS HISTORYThe Croatian Association of Fine Artists (Hrvatsko Drutvo Likovnih Umjetnika;% 46 11 818; www.hdlu.hr; Trg rtava Faizma; admission free;h 11am-7pm Tue-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat & Sun) is one of the fewarchitectural works by Ivan Metrovi and a building thats had several fascinating incarnationsthat reflect the regions history in a nutshell.

Originally designed by Metrovi in 1938 as an exhibition pavilion, the structure honouredKing Petar Kara or evi the ruler of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes which gratedagainst the sensibilities of Croatias nationalists. With the onset of Croatias fascist government,the building was renamed The Zagreb Artists Centre in May 1941, but several months later AntePaveli , Croatias fascist leader, gave orders for the building to be evacuated of all artwork andturned into a mosque. This was, according to him, so that the local Muslim population wouldfeel at home in Croatia (there was no other mosque at the time to serve the needs of thesepeople). There were murmurs of disapproval from the artists, but the building was significantlyrestructured and eventually surrounded by three minarets.

With the establishment of Socialist Yugoslavia, however, the mosque was promptly closed andthe buildings original purpose restored, although the government renamed it the Museum of thePeoples Liberation. A permanent exhibition was set up and, in 1949, the government had theminarets knocked down. In 1951, an architect called V Richter set about returning the buildingto its original state according to Metrovis design. The building has remained an exhibitionspace ever since, with a nonprofit, nongovernment association of Croatian artists making use ofit. Despite being renamed the Croatian Association of Fine Artists in 1991 by the countrys newgovernment, everyone in Zagreb still knows it as the old mosque.

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lone lyplane t . com ZAGREB Activi t ies

of Croatias finest architects, Herman Boll,who also created numerous buildings aroundZagreb. In Mirogoj he built a majestic arcadetopped by a string of cupolas, which lookslike a fortress from the outside but is calmand graceful on the inside. The cemetery islush and green and the paths are interspersedwith sculpture and artfully designed tombs.Highlights include the graves of poet PetarPreradovi and the political leader StjepanRadi, the bust of Vladimir Beci by IvanMetrovi and the sculpture by Mihanovi for the Mayer family. The newest addition atMirogoj is amemorial cross in honour of thefallen soldiers in Croatias Homeland War.

MEDVEDGRADThe medieval fortress ofMedvedgrad (admissionfree;h 7am-10pm), on the southern side of MtMedvednica just above the city, is Zagrebsmost important medieval monument. Builtfrom 1249 to 1254, it was erected to protectthe city from Tartar invasions and is itselfwell protected by high rocks. The fortress wasowned by a succession of aristocratic families

but fell into ruin as a result of an earthquakeand general neglect. Restoration began in1979, but was pursued with greater enthusi-asm in 1993 and 1994 when the country waslooking to honour monuments from its past.Today you can see the rebuilt thick walls andtowers, a smallchapel with frescoes and theShrine of the Homeland, which pays homage tothose who have died for a free Croatia. Ona clear day, it also offers a beautiful view of

Zagreb and surrounds.East of the CentreMAKSIMIR PARKThis park (Maksimirska;h 9am-dusk) is a peace-ful wooded enclave covering 18 hectares; itis easily accessible by trams 4, 7, 11 and 12.Opened to the public in 1794, it was the firstpublic promenade in southeastern Europeand is landscaped like an English garden-stylepark with alleys, lawns and artificial lakes.The most photographed structure in the parkis the exquisiteBellevue Pavilion, which wasconstructed in 1843, but there is also theEchoPavilion and a house built to resemble a rus-tic Swiss cottage. Theres also a modestzoo(adult/under 8yr 20/10KN;h 9am-8pm), which cameup with the novel idea of installing cages forhumans to educate the big-brained wondersabout their impact on the environment.

ACTIVITIESThe Sports Park Mladost(% 36 58 541; Jarunska 5,Jarun; family day ticket 60KN;h 11am-3pm & 4-8pm Mon,Tue, Thu & Fri, 11am-3pm Wed, 1-5pm Sat, 10am- has outdoor and indoor Olympic-sized swim-ming pools, as well as smaller pools for chil-dren and a gym. To get to Jarun, take tram5 or 7.

TheSports & Recreational Centre alata (% 4616 300; www.salata.hr, in Croatian; Schlosserove Stmission 25KN;h 1.30-6pm Mon-Fri, 11am-7pm Sat & offers outdoor and indoor tennis courts, agym, a winter ice-skating rink and two out-door swimming pools. Theres also an indoorice-skating rink that rents skates.

Although Zagreb is not normally asso-ciated with winter sports, if the snow lastslong enough you can ski right outside townat Sljeme, the main peak of Mt Medvednica.It has four ski runs, three ski lifts and a tri-ple chairlift; call theski centre(% 45 55 833) forinformation on snow conditions.

Jarun Lakein south Zagreb is a popular geta-way for residents at any time of the year, butespecially in summer when the clear watersare ideal for swimming. Although part of thelake is marked off for boating competitions,there is more than enough space to enjoy aleisurely swim. Take tram 5 or 17 to Jarun andfollow signs to the jezero (lake). When youcome to the lake you can head left to MaloJezero forswimming and canoe or pedal-boat rental, or right to Veliko Jezero, where theresa pebble beach andwindsurfing.

ZAGREB WALKING TOURYou can pick up a copy ofCity Walks freefrom any tourist office. It suggests two walk-ing tours around the town centre exploringboth the Upper and Lower Towns.

The natural starting point of any walk inZagreb is the buzzingTrg Josipa Jela i a (1;p78). Climb the steps up toDolac fruit & veg-etable market (2; p73) and pick up some fruitor a quick snack and head for thecathedral (3; p73). CrossKaptol Square (4; p73), walkdown Skalinska and come out at Tkalieva.Wander up the street and climb the stairs nextto the barMelin(5; p87), which will take youup toStone Gate (6; p73), a fascinating shrine.Next, go up Kamenita and youll come out atMarkov Trg, the site ofSt Marks Church (7; p77),Zagrebs most emblematic place, thesabor (8;p77), the countrys parliament, andBanskiDvori (9; p77), the presidential palace. Wander

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ZAGREB Zagreb for Children lone lyplane t . com

about the winding streets of the Upper Townand take in different aspects of Croatias artworld inMetrovi Atelier (10; p77). Walk backacross Markov Trg and downirilometodska,stepping into one of the countrys most par-ticular museums, theCroatian Museum of NaveArt (11; p78). Cross Jezuitski Trg and enterGalerija Klovi evi Dvori (12; p76), where local and

international contemporary art exhibitionsawait. When youre finished with art, gaze upat the gorgeous Jesuit Church of St Catherine (13;p73), before finally emerging atLotr ak Tower (14; p78). Take in the cityscape, and, if youfancy, go down in the funicular. Otherwisedescend the verdant stairway both willleave you on the side ofIlica (15), Zagrebscommercial artery.

Cross Ilica and walk toTrg Petra Preradovi a

(16), where you can take a break at any of the(many) alfresco cafs.

ZAGREB FOR CHILDRENZagreb has some wonderful attractions forkids but getting around with small childrencan be a challenge. Between the tram tracks,high kerbs and cars, manoeuvring a strolleron the streets is not easy. Buses and trams areusually too crowded to accommodate strollers

even though buses have a designated strollerspot. Up to the age of seven, children travelfree on public transport. If you choose taxis,be aware that few have working seat belts foreither you or junior.

After checking out the bug collection atthe Croatian Natural History Museum (p77),take your kids to theTechnical Museum (TehnikiMuzej;% 48 44 050; Savska 18; admission 15KN;h 9am-5pm Tue-Fri, to 1pm Sat & Sun), which has a plan-etarium, steam-engine locomotives, scalemodels of satellites and space ships, and areplica of a mine within the building, as wellas departments of agriculture, geology, energyand transport.

For a little open-air activity, the best placefor tots to work off some steam isBo arskiDom (% 61 95 713; Prisavlje 2). The park has thebest in playground equipment, playing fieldsand a rollerblading ramp. Theres also a relax-ing path along the Sava River for parents toenjoy. To get there, take tram 17 west to thePrisavlje stop.

There are two playgrounds (as well as azoo) inside Maksimir Park (p81), but these are

smaller than those at Boarski Dom and usu-ally more crowded. Aquatically minded kids

will like the pools in the Sports Park Mladost(p81) or Jarun Lake (p81).

TOURSThe tourist office sells tickets for two-hourwalking tours (95KN) and three-hour combi-nation bus and walking tours (150KN), whichoperate daily. The walking tours leave from in

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Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels ZAGREB Fest ivals & Events

front of the main tourist office on Trg JosipaJelaia and the combination tours leave fromin front of the Arcotel Allegra hotel. Ticketsare on sale in tourist offices, travel agenciesand most hotels, and should be purchased atleast one day in advance.FESTIVALS & EVENTSFor a complete listing of Zagreb events, seewww.zagreb-convention.hr. Open-air eventsare free but admission is usually charged forthe indoor concerts. Prices depend upon theconcert, but tickets for most musical eventscan be purchased fromKoncertna DirekcijaZagreb (% 45 01 200; www.kdz.hr; Kneza Mislava 18;h 9am-6pm Mon-Fri). Highlights on Zagrebscalendar include the following: Zagreb Biennial of Contemporary Music(www.biennale-zagreb.hr) Croatias most important classicalmusic event is held during odd-numbered years in April. Queer Zagreb FM Festival (www.queerzagreb.org)Camp out and party during the last week of April. edno Uho (Thirsty Ear) An excellent festival (held 24 to29 April) that promotes contemporary international musicwith a focus on electronic sounds.

Urban Festival (www.urbanfestival.hr) A contemporaryart fest with specific themes every year (5 to 15 May). Vip INmusic Festival (www.vipinmusicfestival.com)A two-day extravaganza, this is Zagrebs highest-profilemusic festival. Nick Cave fronted the 2008 line-up andprevious years have seen Franz Ferdinand, Iggy Pop andMorrissey take the Jarun Lake main stage. There are fourstages, a camping ground and 48 sleepless, party-packedhours (from 3 to 4 June). Animafest (www.animafest.hr) A festival of animated

film is held during even-numbered years in June. Strossmartre(www.kraljeviulice.com) An oddballsfeast, this festival lasts the whole of June and stagesfree outdoor film screenings, concerts and things such asbest-in-show mongrel dog competitions. All along theStrossmayer Promenade. International Folklore FestivalThis festival hasbeen taking place in Zagreb for over 30 years, usually forsix days in July. The program includes folk dancers andsingers from Croatia and other European countries dressed

in traditional costumes. There are free workshops indance, music and art that are designed to introduce you toCroatian folk culture. Zagreb Summer FestivalIn July and August thisfestival presents a cycle of concerts and theatre perform-ances in the Upper Town. The atrium of Galerija Klovi eviDvori on Jezuitski Trg, the Jesuit Church of St Catherine,St Marks Church and the Cathedral of the Assumption ofthe Blessed Virgin Mary are often used, and sometimes theconcerts are held in squares in the Upper Town.

Zagreb Film Festival(www.zagrebfilmfestival.com)This is a major cultural event in town, so if youre iZagreb between 19 and 24 October, dont miss the sings or the parties that accompany them. Internationdirectors compete for the Golden Pram award.

Croatias largest international fairs are theZagreb spring (mid-April) and autumn(mid-September) grand trade fairs.

SLEEPINGZagrebs accommodation scene has beenundergoing a small but noticeable changewith the arrival of some of Europes budget

airlines; the budget end of the market (sofar rather fledgling) is consequently start-ing to get a pulse. Although the new hos-tels cater mainly to the backpacker crowd,its a good start. For midrangers and thosewanting more privacy and a homely feel,there are private rooms and apartments,arranged through agencies. The citys busi-ness and high-end hotels are in full flow,thanks to Zagrebs role as an international

conference hot spot. This means that if youwant to splash out, you should have plentyof choice.

Prices usually stay the same in all seasons,but be prepared for a 20% surcharge if youarrive during a festival, especially the au-tumn fair. The rates of the budget and mid-range hotels listed here include breakfast.

If you intend to stay in a private houseor apartment, try not to arrive on Sunday

because most of the agencies will be closed.Prices for doubles run from about 300KNand apartments start at 400KN per nightfor a studio. Theres usually a surcharge forstaying only one night. Some agencies worthtrying include the following:Evistas (% 48 39 554; [email protected]; Augustaenoe 28; s from 200KN, d 250KN;h 9am-1.30pm &3-8pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-5pm Sat) This agency is remended by the tourist office; its closest to the train

station and finds private accommodation.InZagreb (% 65 23 201; www.inzagreb.com;Remetineka 13; apt 65-86) Great apartments, centrallocated, with a minimum two-night stay. The price icludes bike rental and pick up/drop off from the railbus station. Book through the website or over the phNever Stop (Nemoj Stati;% 48 73 225; www.nest.hr;Bokovi eva 7a;h 9am-5pm Mon-Fri) Great apartmentin the centre of town, but note the minimum three-nstay. Check the website for details and contact for p

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ZAGREB Sleeping Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotel

BudgetFulir Hostel (% 48 30 882; www.fulir-hostel.com; Radi eva3a; dm low-high 100-140KN;i ) Right in the cen-tre of town, seconds away from the bustleof Jelaia and bars on Tkalieva, the Fulirhas 16 beds, friendly owners, self-catering(its proximity to Dolac market is perfect),a DVD-packed common room, satellite TVand free internet. Opened in summer 2006,its a popular spot for shoestring travellers,so book in advance.

Omladinski Hostel (% 48 41 261; www.hfhs.hr; Pet-rinjska 77; 6-/3-bed dm per person 103/113KN, s/d 193/256KN) Although recently renovated, this place stillmaintains a bit of its old gloomy feel. Therooms are sparse and clean; its relativelycentral and the cheapest in town.

Buzzbackpackers(% 23 20 267; www.buzzbackpackers.com; Babuki eva 1b; dm/d from 120/400KN;ai ) More slick and bright than Fulir, but a bitfurther out, Buzzbackpackers is another great- value newcomer. Its clean, the rooms arebright, theres wi-fi access, free internet, ashiny kitchen, laundry service (at a charge)and a BBQ area for the summer months. Taketram 4 or 9 from the main train station to theHeinzelova stop; its a short walk from there(check the website for detailed directions).

Ravnice Hostel (% /fax 23 32 325; www.ravnice-youth-hostel.hr; Ravnice 38d; dm 125KN;i ) This place ispossibly the weakest link in Zagrebs hostelchoices due to its location its a good 45-minute hike from the centre or a 20-minutetram ride (take 4, 7, 11 or 12 and get off atthe Ravnice stop). Having said that, the quietresidential area, past Maksimir Park, is quitelovely. The rooms are clean but spartan,theres a big kitchen downstairs where teaand coffee are free, and the nice garden hasping pong tables for your entertainment. Theinternet is charged at 16KN per hour, laundry50KN per load and, oddly, you have to pay7KN for your locker.

Krovovi Grada(% 48 14 189; Opatovina 33; s/d/tr200/300/400KN)Possibly the most charming ofZagrebs central budget options, this placeis right in the Upper Town. The restoredold house is set back from the street; roomshave creaky floors, vintage furniture andgrandma blankets. There are also two largeapartments with shared bathrooms that cansleep eight. The amenities may be one-starbut its a five-star location within spittingdistance of the restaurants and nightlifeof Tkalieva.

MidrangeHotel Fala (% /fax 61 94 498; www.hotel-fala-zg.Trnjanska 18; s/d 350/495KN;pa ) The roomsare small and frill-free, and it takes a tramride or a 20-minute walk to get to the centre,but its all neat and clean. Take tram 5 or 13to Lisinski.

Hotel Ilica(% 37 77 522; www.hotel-ilica.hr; Ilica s/d/tr/apt 399/499/599/849KN;pa ) A great centraloption, with rooms ranging from super-kitschto lushly decorous there are gilded motifs,plush beds, wall-long paintings and lots ofreds. The bathrooms are well equipped andthe setting is quiet. Trams 6, 11 and 12 stopright outside the entrance, or walk downbuzzy Ilica for 15 minutes.Hotel Jadran (% 45 53 777; www.hup-zagreb.hrVlaka 50; s/d 517/717KN;a )This six-storey hotelhas a superb location only minutes from TrgJosipa Jelaia. The 48 rooms are laid out in acheery, modern style and the service is goodand friendly.

Pansion Jgerhorn (% 48 33 877; www.hotel-pansion-jaegerhorn.hr; Ilica 14; s/d/apt 590/690/890KNa ) Agreat little hotel that sits right underneathGradec and Lotrak Tower, the HuntersHorn (dont snigger!) has friendly serviceand spacious, classic rooms with good views(you can gaze over Gradec from the top-floorattic rooms). The downstairs restaurant serveswild game.

Hotel Central (% 48 41 122; www.hotel-central.hBranimirova 3; s/d 600/780KN;a ) The best place tostay if you have a train to catch, the Central isright opposite the train station. Its in a squarecement building and the rooms are modernif a little pokey. The top-floor rooms facingthe leafy courtyard are larger, so ask to stayin one of those.

Top EndPalace Hotel(% 49 20 530; www.palace.hr; StrossmayTrg 10; s/d from 810/1050KN;pnai ) This hoteloozes European charm and is the oldest inZagreb. Built in 1891, its both aristocraticand outfitted with the latest modern comforts.Try to get a front room for the fantastic viewsover the park.

Hotel Dubrovnik(% 48 73 555; www.hotel-dubrovn.hr; Gajeva 1; s/d from 875/1350KN;a ) Right in thecentre of town, this glass New Yorkwannabebuilding is a real city landmark. It buzzes withbusiness travellers who love being at the centreof the action. The 260 rooms are elegant andhave all you need, and the style is old-school

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classic. Try to get a view of Jelaia and watchZagreb pass by under your window.

o Arcotel Allegra (% 46 96 000; www.arcotel.at/allegra; Branimirova 29; d 152-162;pnai ) The Arcotel Allegra is Zagrebs first designerhotel, with airy, elegant rooms and a plush,marble-and-exotic-fish reception. The bedlinen is covetable and soft, and the bed throwsare printed with faces of Kafka, Kahlo, Freud,Lorca and numerous other iconic personali-ties. Theres a DVD player in each room andthe hotel has movies you can borrow. The topfloor has a gym, sauna and great views of thecity. The on-site Radicchio restaurant is goodand Joes Bars hot on Latino music.

o Regent Esplanade Zagreb (% 45 66 666;www.regenthotels.com; Mihanovi eva 1; s/d 1660/2025KN;pnai ) Sprawling and drenched withhistory, this six-storey, 215-room hotel wasbuilt next to the train station in 1924 towelcome theOrient Express crowd in grandstyle. It has hosted kings, journalists, artistsand politicians since. Its an art deco master-piece, replete with walls of swirling marble,immensely wide staircases and wood-panelled

lifts. Even if youre not staying here, take apeek at the magnificent Emerald Ballroom oreat at Zinfandels Restaurant (p86), one of thefinest dining experiences in Croatia.

EATINGYoull have to love Croatian and (below par)Italian food to enjoy Zagrebs restaurants,but new places are branching out to includeJapanese and other world cuisines. The biggest

move is towards elegantly presentedhautecuisine athaute prices.

BudgetNocturno(% 48 13 394; Skalinska 4; mains 20-50KN)Right on the sloping street underneath thecathedral, this place is very popular for itsItalian menu and lively outdoor terrace. Thereare all the usual pizzas, and some good salads,too, which will gladden vegetarian hearts. The

risottos are pretty huge, so order one of thoseif youre starving.Rubelj (% 48 18 777; www.rubelj-grill.hr; Trnica Mala

Terasa; mains from 25KN) One of the many Rubeljsacross town, this Dolac branch is a great placefor a quick portion of evapi (small spicy sau-sage of minced beef, lamb or pork). Thoughnone is as tasty as those in neighbouringBosnia and Hercegovina (the spiritual homeof the evap), these are Zagrebs best.

Vallis Aurea (% 48 31 305; Tomi eva 4; mains from30KN) This is a true local eatery that has someof the best home cooking youll find in town,so its no wonder that its chock-a-blockat lunchtime. Taste the Dalmatian staple, paticada (beef stew with wine and spices), orthe slightly spicy beans, accompanying eitherwith some house red. Right by the lower endof the funicular.

o Tip Top(% 48 30 349; Gunduli eva 18; mainsfrom 35KN) Oh how we love Tip Top and itswaiting staff, who still sport old socialist uni-forms and scowling faces that eventually turnto smiles. But we mostly love the excellentDalmatian food. Every day has its own setmenu (in addition to la carte); Thursdaysare particularly delicious with octopusbrodet (octopus stewed in red wine, garlic and herbs).Owned and run by Korulans, youll find thatislands wines on offer wines that were nodoubt enjoyed by Tin Ujevi, once Tip Topsmost loyal customer.

Ivica i Marica(% 48 17 321; Tkali eva 70; mainsfrom 40KN)Based on the Brothers Grimm storyHansel & Gretel , this little restaurant/cakeshop is made to look like the gingerbreadhouse from the tale, with waiting staff clad intraditional costumes. Its not exactly veggie,but it does have a decent range of veggie andfish dishes plus meatier fare. The ice creamsand cakes are good, too.

Boban(% 48 11 549; Gajeva 9; mains 40-60KN) Italianis the name of the game in this cellar restau-rant thats owned by the Croatian World Cupstar Zvonimir Boban. Devised by an Italianchef (who hasnt quite instilled the concept ofpasta al dente into the local chefs), the menu isa robust range of pastas, salads and meats. Itsa popular lunch and dinner spot; the upstairscafs terrace attracts Zagrebs youngsters.

o Kerempuh(% 48 19 000; Kaptol 3; main50-70KN) Overlooking Dolac market, this is afabulous place to taste: a) Croatian cuisinecooked well and simply, and b) the marketsingredients on your plate. The set menuchanges daily and the dishes are decided inthe morning, when the chef gets that daysfreshest ingredients from Dolac. Get an out-side table and enjoy the excellent food andmarket views.

Konobaiho(% 48 17 060; Pavla Hatza 15; maifrom 55KN;h Mon-Sat)An old-school Dalmatiankonoba (simple family-run establishment),where, downstairs, you can get fish andseafood grilled or stewed just the way the

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regulars like it. Try the wide range ofrakija (grape brandy).

Midrange

Pivnica Stari Fijaker 900 (%

48 33 829; www.starifijaker.hr; Mesnika 6; mains 50-80KN)This was oncethe height of dining out in Zagreb, and itsdecor, comprised of banquettes, wood andwhite linen, still has a certain staid sobri-ety. Tradition reigns in the kitchen, so trythe homemade sausages, beans andtrukli (dumplings filled with cottage cheese).

Kaptolska Klet (% 48 14 838; Kaptol 5; mains from70KN)This friendly restaurant is comfortable

for everyone from solo diners to groups ofnoisy backpackers. Theres a huge outdoorterrace and a brightly lit beer-hall-style in-terior. Although famous for its Zagreb spe-cialities such as grilled meats and homemadesausages, it also turns out a nice platter ofgrilled vegetables and a vegetable loaf.

Okrugljak (% 46 74 112; Mlinovi 28; mains from 80KN) This is a popular spot on Mt Medvednicafor city people celebrating a special occasion.

Dining is casual; you can sit at wooden ta-bles in carved-out wine barrels or on theterrace. There is usually music on weekends,and the occasional wedding reception canmake the ambience more than lively. Thespit-roasted meat, especially lamb or duck,is unusually juicy and served with deliciousmlinci (baked noodles).

Cantinetta(% 48 11 315; Teslina 14; mains 80-120KN) The perfect environment to end an affair.

No one would think of making a scene insuch elegant surroundings and the exqui-sitely prepared cuisine would go a long waytowards mending a broken heart.

Makronova (% 48 47 115; www.makronova.com;Ilica 72; mains 80-120KN;h Mon-Sat)This macrobi-otic restaurant is elegant and peaceful, andmore than welcoming for those of the veganpersuasion. Its part of a whole healthy em-porium theres a health food shop down-

stairs, shiatsu treatment, yoga classes andfeng shui courses.Pod Gri kim Topom (% 48 33 607; Zakmardijeve

Stube 5; mains from 90KN) Tucked away by a leafypath below the Upper Town, this restauranthas a somewhat self-conscious charm, alongwith an outdoor terrace and good Croatianmeat-based specialities. Its a great place tohole up on a snowy winter evening or dineunder the stars in summer.

Agava (% 48 29 826; Tkali eva 39; mains 100-120KNRight on Tkalieva, this is a smart and so-phisticated place for smart and sophisticatedpeople. The food ranges from starters suchas swordfish carpaccio (50KN) to mains ofsteak and truffle, while the delectable risottosand pastas feature seafood seared in cognac(60KN). The wine list is good, with plenty ofIstrian and Slavonian choices.

Baltazar (% 46 66 999; www.restoran-baltazar.hr; NVes 4; mains from 120KN;h Mon-Sat) Meats duck,lamb, pork, beef and turkey are grilled andprepared the Zagorje and Slavonia way in thisupmarket old-timer, and theres a good choiceof local wines. The summer terrace is a greatplace to dine under the stars.Top EndDubravkin Put(% 48 34 975; Dubravkin Put 2; mains150KN) In a woodsy area northwest of the towncentre, this is an upmarket restaurant with alight and modern decor and outstanding fishspecialities that attract the crowds. The owneris from Dubrovnik and the cuisine is inspiredby Dalmatia, with risottos as starters and maincourses of perfectly grilled fish.Zinfandels Restaurant(% 45 66 666; www.regenthotels.com; Mihanovi eva 1; mains 90-200KN;h Mon-Sat) The tastiest, most creative dishes in townare served with polish in the dining room ofthe Regent Esplanade Zagreb. For a simplerbut still delicious dining experience, head toLe Bistro, also in the Esplanade. Dont missthe trukli.

Quick EatsThe towns main shopping street, Ilica, islined with fast-food joints and inexpensivesnack bars.

Pekarnica Dora (Strossmayerov Trg 7;h 24hr) Closeto the train station, this bakery is open roundthe clock for those late-night pastry needs.

Vincek (% 48 33 612; Ilica 18) Thisslasti arna (pastry shop) serves the best ice cream intown. The long lines as soon as summer startsattest to its popularity.Self-CateringRight in the centre of town, theresGavrilovi (h Mon-Sat)for excellent local cheese, smokedmeat and cold cuts. On Ilica, theres a dailyfruit and vegetablemarket (Britanski Trg;h 6am-3pm), which sells farm-fresh produce. Theresalso the Dolac fruit and vegetable market(p73). Dont hesitate to bargain.

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lone lyplane t . com ZAGREB Drinking

DRINKINGIn the Upper Town, the chic Tkalieva isthrobbing with bars. In the Lower Town,theres bar-lined Bogovieva, just south ofTrg Josipa Jelaia, which turns into primemeet-and-greet territory on sunny springand summer days and balmy nights. TrgPetra Preradovia is the most popular spotin the Lower Town for street performersand occasional bands in mild weather.With half a dozen bars and footpath cafsbetween Trg Preradovia and Bogovieva,the scene on some summer nights resem-bles a vast outdoor party. Things do closeby midnight though.

CafsCaf culture is alive and well in Zagreb andprobably one of the nicest ways to see the cityis to experiencepica the Saturday morningand pre-lunch coffee drinking on the manyterraces along Preradovieva and Tkalieva.

o Booksa (% 46 16 124; www.booksa.hr;Marti eva 14d;h 9am-11pm Tue-Sun)Bookworms andpoets, writers and performers, oddballs andartists, basically anyone on the creative sideof things in Zagreb comes to chat and drinkcoffee, buy books and hear readings at thislovely bookshop. There are English-languagereadings here, too, so check the website.

Elis Caf (% 091 527 9990; www.eliscaffe.com; Ilica 63;h 8am-9pm Mon-Sat, 9am-3pm Sun) Youll see whythis tiny place was given the Best Coffee inCroatia award in 2008 when you try the excel-lent espresso or smooth cappuccino. There arealso breakfast pastries for dipping.Bulldog Caf (% 49 17 393; Bogovi eva 6) Its easyto sit for hours outside, watching the activityon this busy pedestrian street. At night, itsa good place to meet and have a few drinksbefore clubbing.

Palainovka (% 48 51 357; Ilirski Trg 1) Claimingto be the oldest caf in Zagreb (dating from

1846), this Viennese-style place serves de-licious coffee, tea and cakes under prettyfrescoed ceilings.

BarsMost of the places following open aroundnoon and serve drinks all day but the actionheats up at night.

o kola(% 48 28 197; www.skolaloungeba.com; Bogovi eva 7) This has to be the best de-signed bar in the whole of Zagreb with itshuge, differently themed rooms, loungesofas, an olive tree in the middle of themain room, and notebook-style menus(its called School, you see?). There are DJnights, various after-school parties and itspacked with the trendiest of people (and, ofcourse, students).

Cica(Tkali eva 18) The size of an east Londonbedsit, and with a similar vibe, this under-ground place has a massive choice ofrakija .Herbal, nutty, fruity you think it, theyvegot it. Lovers of hedonistic pleasures, Cicais your place.

Apartman (% 48 72 168; Preradovi eva 7) A 1st-floor

space decked out with large cushions andan unpretentious, relaxed crowd, Apartmangets going with DJ music on weekends. Youcan also come and lounge around duringthe day.

Melin(% 48 28 966; Tkali eva 47) This isrocknroll as it used to be, with grotty seats,oddly painted walls, smoke curtains and musicthat bursts ear drums. A corner of grungy oldZagreb on a fast-gentrifying street.

Hemingway (% 48 34 956; Trg Marala Tita) Themain accoutrements youll need here areblack sunglasses and a mobile phone gluedto your ear. This is an upmarket cocktail barwhere you come to pose and be seen.

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Croatia 5 Zagreb