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미국유통업의 미국유통업의 최신 최신 동향 동향 @ @ @ 진병호 진병호 오클라호마 오클라호마 주립대 주립대 부교수 부교수 jbyoung jbyoung @ @ okstate okstate . . edu edu [email protected] [email protected]

Current trends and issues in Apparel Retail Industry§„병호... · 2003-07-08 · Technological Advances • Barcodes and Scanners * Product level identification * Shipping container

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Page 1: Current trends and issues in Apparel Retail Industry§„병호... · 2003-07-08 · Technological Advances • Barcodes and Scanners * Product level identification * Shipping container

미국유통업의미국유통업의 최신최신 동향동향

@@@진병호진병호

오클라호마오클라호마 주립대주립대 부교수부교수

jbyoungjbyoung@@okstateokstate..eduedu

[email protected]@yahoo.com

Page 2: Current trends and issues in Apparel Retail Industry§„병호... · 2003-07-08 · Technological Advances • Barcodes and Scanners * Product level identification * Shipping container

목차목차

한국과 다른 미국유통업 특징 몇 가지

Off-line retailer- Experiential Retailing- Technology 활용

- Mass Customization- Lean Retailing

On-line retailer- E-tailing 동향

- Multichannel Retailing

Page 3: Current trends and issues in Apparel Retail Industry§„병호... · 2003-07-08 · Technological Advances • Barcodes and Scanners * Product level identification * Shipping container

한국과 다른 미국유통업 특징 몇가지

• 방대한 시장, 다양한 인종, 다양한 취향, 높은 인건비

• 소매업체가 직접 buying (일부분만 consignment): 소매업체가 직접 상품구색, 상품관리, 재고관리, 현금흐름관리

• 철저한 제조업체와 소매업체의 역할분리

제조업체는 절대 소비자와 직접 거래안 함

못하게 소매업체가 막음

• 모든 거래시 세금 따로 냄

온라인 주문시 세금 + shipping & handling 내야 함

Page 4: Current trends and issues in Apparel Retail Industry§„병호... · 2003-07-08 · Technological Advances • Barcodes and Scanners * Product level identification * Shipping container

Off-line retailer- Experiential Retailing

- Technology 활용

- Mass Customization

- Lean Retailing

Page 5: Current trends and issues in Apparel Retail Industry§„병호... · 2003-07-08 · Technological Advances • Barcodes and Scanners * Product level identification * Shipping container

Experiential RetailingExperiential Retailing

• 쇼핑뿐 아니라 상점에서 경험을 할 수 있도록

• Examples- Prada, Soho, New York City- Sephora- Rainforest Café

Page 6: Current trends and issues in Apparel Retail Industry§„병호... · 2003-07-08 · Technological Advances • Barcodes and Scanners * Product level identification * Shipping container

Experiential Retailing: Experiential Retailing: PradaPrada, , SohoSoho, NYC, NYC

Page 7: Current trends and issues in Apparel Retail Industry§„병호... · 2003-07-08 · Technological Advances • Barcodes and Scanners * Product level identification * Shipping container

Experiential Retailing: Experiential Retailing: PradaPrada, , SohoSoho, NYC, NYC

Page 8: Current trends and issues in Apparel Retail Industry§„병호... · 2003-07-08 · Technological Advances • Barcodes and Scanners * Product level identification * Shipping container

Experiential Retailing: Experiential Retailing: PradaPrada, , SohoSoho, NYC, NYC

Page 9: Current trends and issues in Apparel Retail Industry§„병호... · 2003-07-08 · Technological Advances • Barcodes and Scanners * Product level identification * Shipping container

Experiential Retailing: Experiential Retailing: PradaPrada, , SohoSoho, NYC, NYC

Page 10: Current trends and issues in Apparel Retail Industry§„병호... · 2003-07-08 · Technological Advances • Barcodes and Scanners * Product level identification * Shipping container

Experiential Retailing: Experiential Retailing: PradaPrada, , SohoSoho, NYC, NYC

Page 11: Current trends and issues in Apparel Retail Industry§„병호... · 2003-07-08 · Technological Advances • Barcodes and Scanners * Product level identification * Shipping container

Experiential Retailing: Experiential Retailing: PradaPrada, , SohoSoho, NYC, NYC

Page 12: Current trends and issues in Apparel Retail Industry§„병호... · 2003-07-08 · Technological Advances • Barcodes and Scanners * Product level identification * Shipping container

Experiential Retailing: Experiential Retailing: SephoraSephora

- LVMH 계열, 유럽의 화장품 체인

- 기존의 판매방식 파괴

Page 13: Current trends and issues in Apparel Retail Industry§„병호... · 2003-07-08 · Technological Advances • Barcodes and Scanners * Product level identification * Shipping container

Experiential Retailing: Experiential Retailing: Sephora Sephora 계속계속

• Freedom: 모든 제품상점내에서 사용해 봄.원하는 수준의 서비스

(셀프 서비스부터 전문가까지)

• Beauty: 세계 모든브랜드를 한 곳에, 기능성화장품까지도.

• Pleasure: Touch and Feel

Page 14: Current trends and issues in Apparel Retail Industry§„병호... · 2003-07-08 · Technological Advances • Barcodes and Scanners * Product level identification * Shipping container

Experiential Retailing: Experiential Retailing: Sephora Sephora 계속계속

• 프랑스 (150개), 이태리 (25),폴랜드 (22), 스페인 (16), 영국 (9)포르투갈 (9), 룩셈브르크 (1)

• 미국: 1998년 런칭, 현재 70개

• Sephora, Rockefeller Center

Page 15: Current trends and issues in Apparel Retail Industry§„병호... · 2003-07-08 · Technological Advances • Barcodes and Scanners * Product level identification * Shipping container

Experiential Retailing: Experiential Retailing: Rainforest café

Page 16: Current trends and issues in Apparel Retail Industry§„병호... · 2003-07-08 · Technological Advances • Barcodes and Scanners * Product level identification * Shipping container

Technology Technology 활용활용

• Technologies in Visual Merchandising:In-store visuals: Plasma screens and

liquid crystal displays (Prada shop in NYC)수시로 visual 바꿀 수 있음

Page 17: Current trends and issues in Apparel Retail Industry§„병호... · 2003-07-08 · Technological Advances • Barcodes and Scanners * Product level identification * Shipping container

Technology Technology 활용활용

• Store planning: - Customer traffic flow map - Visual merchandising

software

Page 18: Current trends and issues in Apparel Retail Industry§„병호... · 2003-07-08 · Technological Advances • Barcodes and Scanners * Product level identification * Shipping container

Mass CustomizationMass Customization

• A combination of “mass production” and “custom-made”

• Customized design & customized fit• Examples:Levi Strauss: 90년대 중반. 상점에서 판매원이 측정

Land’s End: 웹사이트에서 소비자가 본인사이즈 입력

Brooks Brothers: 상점에서 Body Scanner가 측정

Dell Computer

Page 19: Current trends and issues in Apparel Retail Industry§„병호... · 2003-07-08 · Technological Advances • Barcodes and Scanners * Product level identification * Shipping container

Mass Customization: Mass Customization: Land’s end• 현재 바지, 셔츠만 가능

• Web site에서 자신의 칫수입력하면 옷이 집으로 배달됨.• 사이즈 보관하여 재주문 용이하게.

Page 20: Current trends and issues in Apparel Retail Industry§„병호... · 2003-07-08 · Technological Advances • Barcodes and Scanners * Product level identification * Shipping container

Mass Customization: Brooks BrothersMass Customization: Brooks Brothers

Page 21: Current trends and issues in Apparel Retail Industry§„병호... · 2003-07-08 · Technological Advances • Barcodes and Scanners * Product level identification * Shipping container

Digital Tailoring: Brooks BrothersDigital Tailoring: Brooks Brothers

12초만에 삼십만개 점으로 입력

2주만에 집으로 배달됨

$100정도 추가비용

Page 22: Current trends and issues in Apparel Retail Industry§„병호... · 2003-07-08 · Technological Advances • Barcodes and Scanners * Product level identification * Shipping container

Mass Customization: Mass Customization: Dell Computer

• Flat monitor (15inch), 30 GB, Pentium 4, Free shipping and handling $699

• 같은 조건에 일반 모니터는 $449• 주문후 1주일안에 집으로 배달됨

Page 23: Current trends and issues in Apparel Retail Industry§„병호... · 2003-07-08 · Technological Advances • Barcodes and Scanners * Product level identification * Shipping container

Lean RetailingLean Retailing의의 배경배경

Technological Advances• Barcodes and Scanners

* Product level identification

* Shipping containerIdentification

• EDI & World Wide Web• Automated Distribution

Centers

Product Proliferation

Short Product Life Cycles

Inventory Risk

Lean Retailing• Weekly replenishment• Small order quantities

Need for New Supply Channel Management Models

Forecasting Uncertainty

Source: Abernathy, et al. (1999). A Stitch in Time, New York: Oxford Univ. Press Inc., 참조하여 개발

Page 24: Current trends and issues in Apparel Retail Industry§„병호... · 2003-07-08 · Technological Advances • Barcodes and Scanners * Product level identification * Shipping container

Traditional Retailing-Apparel Supplier Relations

Apparel Manufacturer RetailerBulk Large Shipments

Low Frequency Retail Order

Information flowProduct flow

Apparel Plant 1

Manufacturer’s Distribution

Center/Warehouse

Retailer’s Distribution

Center/WarehouseRetail

Store 2

Retail Store 3

Retail Store 1

Apparel Plant 2

Apparel Plant n

OrdersOrders

Source: Abernathy, et al. (1999). A Stitch in Time, New York: Oxford Univ. Press Inc., p.43

Page 25: Current trends and issues in Apparel Retail Industry§„병호... · 2003-07-08 · Technological Advances • Barcodes and Scanners * Product level identification * Shipping container

Lean Retailing-Apparel Supplier Relations

Apparel Manufacturer RetailerFrequent Store

specific Shipment

Ongoing Replacement Orders

Apparel Plant 1

Manufacturer’s Distribution

Center/Warehouse

Retailer’s Distribution

Center/Warehouse

Retail Store 2

Retail Store 3

Retail Store 1

Apparel Plant 2

Apparel Plant n

Information flowProduct flow

Retail Store n

Direct Store Delivery

Source: Abernathy, et al. (1999). A Stitch in Time, New York: Oxford Univ. Press Inc., p.56

Page 26: Current trends and issues in Apparel Retail Industry§„병호... · 2003-07-08 · Technological Advances • Barcodes and Scanners * Product level identification * Shipping container

기존의기존의 소매업체와소매업체와 Lean RetailerLean Retailer의의제조업체에제조업체에 대한대한 기대치기대치 차이차이

점점 요구늘어감, 가격표, 디스플레이까지

별로 요구안 함Floor-ready merchandise

UPC, EDI, SCM는 일반적없었음거래관련 기준

늦거나 불완전한 주문에대해선 처벌

없었음소매업체 기준에못 미칠시 처벌

SKU level까지 정확성 요구

불일치 인정안함주문과 차이 인정주문의 신뢰성

시즌내 재보충있음: 주문후 1주일이내 입고

시즌내 재보충없음제품보충

Lean Retailer기존의 소매업체소매업체 기대치

Source: Abernathy, et al. (1999). A Stitch in Time, New York: Oxford Univ. Press Inc., p.80에서 발췌

Page 27: Current trends and issues in Apparel Retail Industry§„병호... · 2003-07-08 · Technological Advances • Barcodes and Scanners * Product level identification * Shipping container

All National Chains J.C. Penney

Average for Retail GroupLean Retailers

All Mass Merchandisers Wal-Mart Stores

All Department Stores Dillard’s Inc.

All Specialty Stores

The Gap Inc.

The Limited Inc.

-5 0 5 10 15 20 25 30Compound Annual Growth Rates (%) based on Constant 1993 $

Lean Retailer vs. Retail Groups:Comparative Growth Rates of Retailers: 1983-93

Source: Abernathy, et al. (1999). A Stitch in Time, New York: Oxford Univ. Press Inc., p.74

Page 28: Current trends and issues in Apparel Retail Industry§„병호... · 2003-07-08 · Technological Advances • Barcodes and Scanners * Product level identification * Shipping container

On-line retailer- E-tailing 동향

- Multichannel Retailing

Page 29: Current trends and issues in Apparel Retail Industry§„병호... · 2003-07-08 · Technological Advances • Barcodes and Scanners * Product level identification * Shipping container

ee--tailing tailing 동향동향

1. Front-end tools(소비자의 지각된 위험 감소노력)

• Virtual Model: Land’s End, HSN.com온라인상에서 실제 자신과 비슷한 모델을 만들어 여러 옷을입혀 볼 수 있음

• Smart Label: 바코드와 반송주소가 적힌 레이블이 주문한제품과 함께 도착. 제품이 맘에 안 들면 이 레이블을 상자에붙이고 우편취급소에 갖다 주면 됨 (이미 우편요금이 지불되어있고 그 만큼의 비용이 공제된 나머지 금액이 반환됨)

• Shop with a friend• Live chat with a salesperson: 실시간 상주하는 판매원과

온라인상에서 제품에 대한 문의 가능

• Sample swatch: 미리 직물의 촉감, 색상 볼 수 있게

Page 30: Current trends and issues in Apparel Retail Industry§„병호... · 2003-07-08 · Technological Advances • Barcodes and Scanners * Product level identification * Shipping container

ee--tailing tailing 동향동향 ((계속계속))

2. Back-end system

• Data mining을 통한 personalizationex. “You’ll also like it”

• 각 supply chain간 실시간 정보공유 노력

EDI → XML (extensible markup language)로 바뀌는 추세

시스템과 관계없이 실시간으로 각 chain간 정보공유 가능

• 제조업체가 소매상을 위한 B2B site 운영: 제품 정보 뿐 아니라

주문 및 결재 가능

ex. tommyb2b.comnike.net

Page 31: Current trends and issues in Apparel Retail Industry§„병호... · 2003-07-08 · Technological Advances • Barcodes and Scanners * Product level identification * Shipping container

MultichannelMultichannel RetailingRetailing

• 인터넷때문에 기존 상점이 market share를 뺏길거라고생각했었음.

• 순수 e-tailer보다 off-line business (상점, 카달로그)를 가지고있는 회사의 성공확률이 높다는 것이 일반적인 의견.

• 왜냐면 1) 소비자가 기존 off-line 상의 인지도높은

브랜드나 상점 선호

2) Order fulfillment, 재고관리 등이 생각보다 어려움

(ex. Webvan 실패)

• 이제는 인터넷이 기존 채널을 보충해서 synergy를 창출할 수있다는 생각이 지배적

Page 32: Current trends and issues in Apparel Retail Industry§„병호... · 2003-07-08 · Technological Advances • Barcodes and Scanners * Product level identification * Shipping container

MultichannelMultichannel Retailing Retailing 계속계속

• 한 연구에 의하면 한 채널보다 여러 채널을 이용하는 구매자들이더 많이 지출. 따라서 많은 소매업체들이 여러 채널로 확대 경향

• Catalog → on-line: Land’s end, J. crew, L.L. Bean• Brick & Mortar → on-line: Gap• On-line → Brick & mortar와 제휴: Amazon.com

- amazon.com에서 주문하고 Borders bookstore에서 pick up- 400여개의 브랜드모아 포탈형성

Page 33: Current trends and issues in Apparel Retail Industry§„병호... · 2003-07-08 · Technological Advances • Barcodes and Scanners * Product level identification * Shipping container

MultichannelMultichannel Retailing Retailing 계속계속

• 한 상점/브랜드가 off line, catalog, online 세 채널을 가지고 있는경우가 많음 (ex. J Crew, William-Sonoma, Pottery Barn, Spiegel, Brooks Brothers)

• 소비자의 이 세 채널에 대한 반응이 다양

ex. 상점에서 제품보고 인터넷으로 주문: 상품설명 등 정보때문

카달로그에서 제품보고 인터넷으로 주문: 상품사진이 좋음

인터넷이나 카달로그에서 제품보고 상점에서 구매: Shipping & handling 비용 절약하려고

• 따라서 어떻게 하면 각 채널을 효율적으로 관리하여 최적의

Page 34: Current trends and issues in Apparel Retail Industry§„병호... · 2003-07-08 · Technological Advances • Barcodes and Scanners * Product level identification * Shipping container

MultichannelMultichannel Retailing Retailing 계속계속

• 각 채널을 통합하려고 노력

- Multi-channel gift registries- Order on the web and pick-up in store- Web-to-store promotions- Store-to-web promotions

• 이와는 반대로 채널간 제품구색 및 기능을 차별화하는 경우도있음

- Bloomingdales.com: 선물류 위주로

- Walmart.com: 음악 CD, 매트리스처럼 상점에 없거나 적은

품목 보충

- Nike.com: 기존대리점과 차별된 고가, 고품질의 제품만 취급

- Staples.com: on-line에서 실제상점보다 더 많은 제품취급

Page 35: Current trends and issues in Apparel Retail Industry§„병호... · 2003-07-08 · Technological Advances • Barcodes and Scanners * Product level identification * Shipping container

감사합니다감사합니다..

““Competitive advantage emerges from pressure,Competitive advantage emerges from pressure,challenge, and adversity, rarely from an easy life challenge, and adversity, rarely from an easy life

(Michael Porter, 1990, p. 174)(Michael Porter, 1990, p. 174)””