Desanblaje y Ensamblaje de Caja 4l60 e

7/30/2019 Desanblaje y Ensamblaje de Caja 4l60 e

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TRANSMISSION DISASSEMBLY

Place the transmission on a sturdy workbench.

Remove the transmissionmounting bell housing. This is nota task for a bargain tool. The Torxfasteners used to assemble thebell to the trans have a T-45recess, and are not only torquedto a high level but have hadadhesive applied. Beyond that,they may have suffered seizureand galling upon installation or

since, and will require significanttorque to break free. Use a good

quality, undamaged Torx driver bit. Penetrating oil applied well in advance andheat on the case areas surrounding the bolts will make the job much easier.This one step can turn the project into a nightmare if not done successfully.

Remove the transmission oil pan and filter.
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Remove the wire harness and main electrical connector socket. The socket hasfour locking tabs which need to be compressed inward to allow the socket to bepushed into the transmission.

Remove the TCC pressure signal solenoid (if equipped) retaining clip, then slide

the solenoid from the valve body.

Remove the TCC solenoid retaining bolts and slide the TCC solenoid valve outof the pump body.

Compress the pump pressurerelief valve cap inward slightlyagainst the springs, then removethe valve snap ring.

Remove the valve body, reverseboost spool, both springs, andinternal pressure control/regulatorvalve spool. The entire pressurecontrol and boost valve can be leftin place until the pump is removed, but removing it now will allow more oil todrain out while the bench is already full of contaminated oil.
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Remove the valve body bolts andthe lower valve body. Secure the

work area so that all seven of thecheck balls will be contained whenremoving the plate. Take care torelease the lower separator plategasket. Even if you plan to replacethe gasket, it will be easier toremove the gasket in one piece

than to clean off all remnants ofthe gasket from the valve body orseparator plate.

Remove the 2nd gearaccumulator bolts andaccumulator.

Remove the three bolts from thestamped steel plate near the leftrear corner of the valve body,remove the three accumulatorbody bolts, then remove theseparator plate. There will be atleast one additional check ball tocapture when the plate isremoved. The second check ballin the upper valve body should beretained in a cage assembly, butmay be loose. With the separator

plate removed, remove theaccumulator spring.

Remove the pump housing bolts and carefully pry the pump out of the front ofthe case. There are pump pullers designed specifically for this purpose, but acareful use of a large flat bar will coax the pump and its sealing ring out of the

front cavity bore with no damage. Prying between the pump and input drumand/or the gaps at the bottom of the transmission case should get it moving
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forward. Be careful to avoid damage to the pump gasket and case machinedsurfaces.

Remove the band anchor pin fromthe upper valve body area. Astrong magnet works well for this.This should relax the bandadequately to allow removal of thereverse input drum assembly.

On the exterior of the right side ofthe transmission case, clean thearea surrounding the 2-4 bandservo cover. Compress the outer

cover for the 2-4 servo inward,then remove the lock ring. Slidethe cover and servo assemblyoutward.

Remove the input shell and drum/clutch assembly. Pull straight outward andsupport the weight of the assembly as it disengages from the reaction shell andinput planetary set.

Remove the band. These parts should now be sitting on the bench:
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Remove the yellow shaft lock retaining ring from the output shaft, then removethe input sun gear. You should also be able to remove the VSS or speedometerthimble, tail shaft housing (if equipped), and output shaft at this time.

Remove the input planetary set asan assembly.

Remove the reaction sun shell. There is athrust washer visible on the front, andanother behind the shell which should beattached to the reverse sprag hub. Be awarethat it may fall out as you remove the shelland that this is no cause for alarm.

This reaction sun gear spline had lost the

rear retaining ring from the groove andshowed some spline damage - The spline does not fit new sun shell hub easily.
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Remove the large lock ring holdingthe low-reverse clutch support, thenlift out the support plate. There is nospring force behind the support, sothe lock ring should disengageeasily.

Remove the low-reverse (reaction)planetary assembly as a unit.

Remove the low-reverse clutch stackand low-reverse planetary ring gear,then the support plate behind that.Remove the planetary ring gearsupport lock ring.

You should now be looking at the low-reverse clutch apply assembly. Compressthe low-reverse clutch spring pack with a suitable tool, then remove theretaining ring from the hub. Relax the compression on the spring pack andremove all the parts. The case should now be essentially a bare casting, otherthan some seal rings, bushings, and the parking pawl and shift linkageremaining in the case. This is an appropriate time to clean the case exteriorthoroughly in preparation for assembly.
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>

TRANSMISSION INSPECTION and ASSEMBLY

Inspect all gears, pinions, and carriers for signs of wear, galling, or otherdamage. Replace parts as necessary. Closely inspect the splines in alllocations, specifically the reaction sun shell hub and mating reaction sun gearspline, the reaction carrier hub spline, input sun gear, and the 1-2 planetary ringgear carrier hub. Any signs of damage or cracking in the carriers should indicatea need for replacement.

Inspect the low-reverse clutch steels and clutch discs. Any signs of heavyscuffing or burning should indicate replacement. If the steels are intact, they canbe cleaned and lightly honed, stoned flat, or ground to break any surface

glazing. Inspect the reverse clutch spring pack and springs for damage,distortion, or breakage. Replace any parts as necessary. Any clutch plates
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installed new or after solvent cleaning must be soaked in clean transmission oilbefore assembly.

Assemble the low-reverse support plate and clutch stack on a flat surface andcheck the overall thickness of the stack at its extreme outer edge. If the

dimension is below 1.200", the steels and/or clutch plates should be replaced. Ifthe dimension is between 1.200" and 1.240", it is acceptable. Install theclutches into the case.

Test the reverse sprag clutch operation. It should rotate with some amount oflight resistance in the clockwise direction, and not rotate in the counterclockwisedirection at all.

Assemble rear input planetary set, sprag clutch, support plate, and large lockring in reverse order of disassembly.

Install the reaction sun gear andtransmission output shaft. Installthe yellow lock ring onto the shaftto retain the reaction sun gear.

Install the appropriate thrustwasher onto the low-reversesprag hub and retain it with

TransGel. Lightly lubricate thereaction sun gear spline, thenalign and install the reaction sunshell. Install the thrust washerinside the shell and retain it with acoating of TransGel.

Lightly lubricate and install the

input planetary gear set assembly.

The entire reaction power path
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assembly is depicted here for reference, but refer to the transmission repairmanual for specific instructions and details for each section.

(Click for larger image)Disassemble the input drive shell forward clutch, reverse clutch, sprag, directclutch and inspect all parts.

Remove the lock ring from the 3-4clutch backing plate, then thebacking plate. Remove the 3-4clutch steels and plates, applyplate, and retainer, being carefulto maintain their order asremoved. Inspect the steels andclutch plates as described above,

and replace any parts asnecessary.

Remove the lock ring for theforward (direct) clutch, then the backing plate. Remove the forward clutch steelsand plates, the Belleville or waved plate, and the apply plate, and retainer,being careful to maintain their order as removed. Inspect the steels and clutchplates as described above, and replace any parts as necessary.

Remove the forward sprag clutch as an assembly. Mark the orientation so youknow which direction is facing forward on reassembly.

Remove the overrunning clutch plates and steels. Inspect the steels and clutchplates as described above, and replace any parts as necessary.

Compress the overrunning clutch hub against the spring and remove the shaftlock ring at the hub. Relax the compression and remove the overrunning clutchapply and forward clutch apply pistons. Lift out the forward clutch housing andspring package, and inspect the springs for damage, distortion, or breakage.Replace any parts as necessary.

Inspect the interior of the input drum (torque drive drum) for indications of the

clutch steels wearing into the drum guides. Any grooves can cause clutch steelsto stick and interfere with proper clutch engagement or release.
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Replace seals and wipers as necessary before assembly. With all parts intact,reassemble them in reverse order. The steels for the overrunning clutch shouldbe 0.089-0.094' thick after cleanup. Replace if necessary to maintain properclutch stack thickness.

Inspect the forward sprag clutch. When viewed from the smaller hub side, thesmaller splined hub should be able to turn clockwise with minimal effort, andshould not be able to be turned counterclockwise with any amount of effort orforce. If the sprag is intact, install it into the torque drum.

Assemble the forward (direct) clutch in reverse order of disassembly. Wheninstalled with the support plate and lock ring, the total clearance of the stackshould be between 0.030 and 0.063" as checked with a feeler gauge. Excessiveclearance will cause clutch slippage, and inadequate clearance can cause poorrelease and burning of the clutch plates.

Assemble the 3-4 clutch and supports in reverse order of disassembly. Wheninstalled with the support plate and lock ring, the total clearance of the stackshould be between 0.060 and 0.085" as checked with a feeler gauge.

The entire input power path assembly is depicted here for reference, but refer tothe transmission repair manual for specific instructions and details for eachsection.

(Click for larger image)Install the input drum assembly onto the input planetary gear set and reactionsun shell. This can require some patience and dexterity, as it will be necessaryto align and engage two sets of clutch plates with two different driven hubs.Rotating the input drum to help align the clutches makes the task possible, andup to seven plates on a stock clutch (you should have counted them) need to bealigned to allow full engagement.

Remove the lock ring for the reverse input clutch, then the backing plate, clutchplates and steels. Remove the Belleville (conical) plate, and inspect aspreviously directed for wear or damage and replace any parts as necessary.Compress the reverse input clutch spring and remove the retaining ring.

Release the compression and remove the spring assembly and piston. Inspectand replace seals as required. Reassemble the piston, spring and retainer, then
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the clutch stack in the order it was removed. Install the backing plate and lockring, and check the clutch clearance as previously described. Allowableclearance is 0.040-0.076" for the stack. Replace clutches or steels as necessaryto maintain this clearance.

Inspect and replace the shaft seals on the input drum shaft. Inspect the inputdrum thrust bearing for damage.

Install the band.

Install the reverse input drum byaligning the clutch plates androtating the drum as necessary to

engage all the plates on the innerhub, as well as the outer fingersinto the reaction sun shell.

Assemble and install the 2-4 servofrom the outside of thetransmission housing, making

certain the clamp pin engages the band. Install the anchor pin for the stationaryend of the band and retain it in place with masking tape.

PUMP

Remove the pump body bolts andsplit the pump halves. Remove

the vanes and inspect for wear ordamage. Lift out the vane backingrings and pump rotor and inspectfor scoring on either face.

Inspect the pump cavity and end plates for wear of damage. Inspect the slewring and springs closely (there are two concentric springs) for damage ordistortion. Make sure the ring can pivot freely against the spring pressure.
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Replace any damaged or worn parts as necessary.

Drive the front pump bushing outof the housing bore with a suitabletool. The pump bushing supportsthe entire mass of the torqueconverter and can wear quickly.This is not an area to beoverlooked. Press or drive a newpump bushing into the housing

with a suitable tool.

Assemble the pump with newvanes or reverse the existingvanes if they are serviceable.

Lightly lubricate the pump rotorand vane support rings, and packthe pump cavity with TransGel orVaseline to insure fluid pickup once the transmission starts to operate.

Align the pump halves with a band clamp tool and tighten the body bolts to 18ft/lb. Lubricate the new pumpbushing.

Install the pressure regulator valveinto the pump housing. Install thethrust washer on the rear face ofthe pump housing and retain it inplace with TransGel or Vaseline.

Install the pump into the front of

the transmission making sure thegasket is aligned properly, and the
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pump bushings clear the input shaft without being damaged. Tighten the bodybolts to 18 ft/lb.

The pump housing will only orient one way, since there is only one area of the

pump which has two bolts close together. The orientation is self explanatory ifyou observe the bolt pattern.

There are M10 studs used professionally to help align the pump body forinstallation, but careful alignment will be sufficient.

At this point the transmission should be a nearly complete unit minus the valvebody. You should be able to turn the turbine (input) shaft clockwise and the

internal drag may drive the output shaft in the same direction. Turning the inputshaft counterclockwise will be more difficult, and should result in an oppositerotation of the output shaft. If the input (turbine) shaft does not react asdescribed, the input sprag may be installed incorrectly or damaged. Check andrectify this before proceeding further.

There should be between 0.015-0.036" total end play (axial) in the input shaft.Less than that can mean the pump is being bound or a clutch is not fullyengaged, and more than that can mean wear in a drum or thrustwasher/bearing which will require shimming. Shim washers are typically placedbehind the thrust bearing on the input drum before the reverse input clutch anddrum are installed.

VALVE BODYValve body rebuilding will not be covered in detail, since there are severalvariations. If you suspect valve body damage, you can remove solenoids andvalve spools to inspect them and their bores. Repairs are typically done byreaming the bore larger, honing, or installing a wear sleeve after reaming, thenhoning to a finished bore size. Scuffed or damaged spools must be replaced.

Aside from rebuilding the valve body, the solenoids should be tested, along withthe temperature sensor and pressure sensors. A plain ohmmeter will besufficient. Your transmission service manual should list the appropriateresistances for the solenoid coils, and normal states of the pressure switches.

The separator plate should also be inspected closely where the check ballsseal. Repeated operation of the checks will cause the balls to actually pein theopenings in the stamped steel plate until the holes are distorted and enlarged.Given enough wear, the balls can go through the plate and render the checksystem ineffective. That can completely lock the transmission depending upon

which valves are involved. Any wear should be addressed. The plate can eitherbe replaced or repaired. Hard inserts are available to replace the worn areas.


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Larger check balls can also be used, but 0.285" is about the safe diameter limitso that the balls do not interfere with flow in the forward direction.

Install the single loose uppercheck ball and accumulatorspring, and check that the cagedcheck ball is still in the properlocation.

Install the upper separator plategasket and plate. Set the lower

gasket onto the separator plate.

Clean the valve body and insertthe lower body check balls in theirappropriate locations.

NOTE: Two balls share one

channel near the center of thevalve body.

Retain the balls in their respectiveholes or channels with TransGelor Vaseline.
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Install the stamped steel plate on

the left rear corner of theseparator plate and theaccumulator body on the right rearcorner of the plate. Insert a fewother valve body bolts in variouslocations to align the gasket andplate properly, then tighten thethree M6 X 18 hex head capscrews for the stamped steel plateto 100 in/lb, or about 8 ft/lb.

Tighten the two M6 X35 and one M6 X 65hex cap screws for theaccumulator to thesame torquespecification.

Pass the transmissionmain electricalconnector through thehole in the case andfold the wiring harness

out of the way. Insert the linkage rod to the manual valve spool, then positionthe lower valve body and install all fasteners in their appropriate positions.

NOTE: It is critical to install the bolts in their correct locations. Installing a boltwhich is too long can cause the bolt to seat against the reaction sun shell or

reverse input clutch housing/shell and effectively lock the transmission.

Torque all bolts to 100 in/lb.

Connect the electrical connectors to the appropriate solenoids and install theTCC solenoid and valve. Torque those two bolts to 100 in/lb. Insert the TCCPWM Signal solenoid valve into the remaining valve body bore and clip it inposition. Snap the wiring harness conduit to the valve body bolts. Install the shiftlinkage detent arm spring and roller.
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FINAL ASSEMBLY

Install a new filter and seal, cleanthe pan and magnet, and install it

the oil pan.

This would also be a good time toinstall a drain plug in the pan toease any future service androutine maintenance.

Set the transmission on the panand install the adapter bell

housing.

NOTE: The factory used a thread adhesive on these bolts, but given the typicalgalling and seizure these bolts experience, I've used antiseize compoundinstead with no adverse results.
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Torque all the bell mounting fasteners to 45 ft/lb.

Seal the main transmission

electrical connector, oil cooler

openings, vent tube, and input

shaft and output shaft areas, then

clean the transmission exterior.

If the vehicle is AWD or 4WD,

sealing and cleaning the transfer

case would also be advisable.

Inspect the transmission case seal

for the transfer case adapter or

the tailshaft housing, and replace
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the seal as necessary.

If appropriate, replace the rear bushing in the tailshaft housing and install a new

driveshaft yoke seal. Install the tailshaft housing and seal the end with a

suitable cap.

The transmission can now be painted and have a new alpha label installed.

In preparation for installation into the vehicle, it would also be good to clean the

cross member, lines, and vehicle wiring harness.

Applying antiseize compound to engine fasteners, chassis and mount bolts,exhaust studs, and other various fasteners is always prudent.

If it has not already been done,

drain the torque convertercompletely. Tip it, slosh it, agitate

it, and do whatever is necessary

to get all you can out of the

converter housing. A typical

converter contains several quarts

of fluid, and any contamination

which resulted from the

transmission failure is likely in the

oil within the converter. Draining it

as much as practical reduces the

contamination the new filter will

experience and helps insure a

successful repair.

When the bulk of the oil is drained from the converter, placing it upside-down

over a large steel container (a coffee can works great for this) will allow nearly

all the remaining oil to drain out over several hours.
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You should also inspect the hub of the converter for visible wear. This is the

part which mates the pump bushing, and they are common wear areas.

If the converter has high mileage, it may be better to replace it with a new or

factory remanufactured unit. Read the Home page and PARTS and

UPGRADES section for the full explanation.

Lubricate the front pump seal and pump bushing with TransGel or transmission

fluid, then install the torque converter onto the transmission input shaft. There

are two splines to be engaged, and one drive lug (the double slots on the main

converter hub) to engage with the pump. Carefully align the converter with the

input shaft and slide it into place. Rotate and lift/tilt the converter as necessaryto engage the splines and pump drive lugs. When installed correctly, the

converter should slide all the way back to the point where it contacts the

adapter bell.

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Desanblaje y Ensamblaje de Caja 4l60 e